Trying to see about fixing monorail toy set

[pakmule87]

Hey guys, new to the board and was trying to see if I could find some help. Back in November 2001 (last Disney trip...maybe one day I will take my fiancee and our niece there ), we had purchased 2 of the red monorail sets. This past weekend I decided to pull them out of storage, and of course having been purchased back when I was 13, no thought was given to removing the batteries, so neither one currently will work. One of the top boards is obviously bad enough that it is no good since one of the tracks has peeled off and one motor doesn't run when direct power is applied. I do have to resolder all the wires as some broke off on their own and some I just went ahead and broke the rest of the way myself (have a pic that just doesn't have the black (assumed ground) wire from the speaker soldered on to direct me if the other board is somehow salvageable).

Basically just looking for any advise or direction on either the possibility of replacement parts either original or modified, and any other tips and tricks that can be passed on to see about fixing at least one of them, such as best way to remove the top board if there is an option to avoid desoldering the battery contacts.

 

[boBQuincy]

Didn't see your post until now. Yep, 20 year old batteries can do a lot of damage BUT all is not lost. Replacement battery contacts are available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R22M81...olid=3ANH85SWPJ766&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The only way I have found to remove the top circuit board is to desolder the contacts (or cut them since they may be too corroded to be usable anyway). Replacement motors are available (H&R Racing Stingray or Tamiya Torque Tuned). Most of the top board functions can be replicated without the board: flashing LED and headlights. The audio is difficult and probably not worth replicating.

 

[Timandalicia]

Didn't see your post until now. Yep, 20 year old batteries can do a lot of damage BUT all is not lost. Replacement battery contacts are available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R22M81...olid=3ANH85SWPJ766&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The only way I have found to remove the top circuit board is to desolder the contacts (or cut them since they may be too corroded to be usable anyway). Replacement motors are available (H&R Racing Stingray or Tamiya Torque Tuned). Most of the top board functions can be replicated without the board: flashing LED and headlights. The audio is difficult and probably not worth replicating.

Wow. I’m impressed. Mine is doing alright except one of the little rubber things came off and I don’t know what to do about that. Any ideas?

 

[boBQuincy]

I am guessing the little rubber thing is the drive wheel that contacts the beam. Some of them get hard and don't grip the beam, some crack and fall off. Some of the plastic hubs split and spin on the shaft. There are no replacements that I know of. Designing a new part would not be difficult but installing it could be, some of the plastic hubs are molded onto splines on the shaft and are difficult to remove and replace.
Some rubber faucet washers look like they may fit the plastic hub but I have not tried it.

 

[pakmule87]

Was able to get one running (after picking up my soldering iron after having it sit on the shelf for some time lol), but the top board is definitely a no go in terms of the red LED and sound. Did go ahead and swap the front lights for white ones since I had bought some for odds and ends on minor projects. Will definitely be looking into some of your mods when I get some spare money laying around since I have the other that is only good for the body, transmission (motor is froze), and drive board.