*Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*



Replacing the catalyst is usually around $10,000-$15,000 but, if I'm not mistaken, there's a class action law suit out on dodge for this so you might get an $0.85 check to help you cover the costs sometimes down the road.
 
Nothing wrong with a gas truck one bit till you start puling anything heavy. Then its a world of differnce.

That repair bill sucks, can't believe its not somehow covered to some degree. And at least you have something to keep you going for the time being.
 


Just posting for others resource.

If you have a 2011 to 2016 Ford 6.7 diesel you may or may not know that the intercooler piping from the intercooler to the intake is rubber and plastic. Eventualy that plastic dry rots and it will split in some way. I found a quality replacement that is not rediculous in cost. The Doorman 667-300 Cold side intercooler pipe is a solid silicon and coated stainless steel replacement with nice spring clamps to hold it together. I just had my own finally blow out on my 2012 F350, and just wanted to share this nugget in case someone didnt't want another OE part, and got sticker shock like I did at what some other companies are charging for their solution. I got it off Amazon for 153, though it is availible through some brick and mortor stores for more.

Just wanted to share this in case someone else ends up wanting to do this as a preventatvie measure (I was one day from ordering one when my pipe split) or because the pipe actually failed.
 
I got my truck back with all new parts on the bottom side. I don't know if they felt bad for the original poor diagnosis or just sloppy paperwork, but the bill was only $6,000 for the new particulate filter, sensors, new lines. No labor charge for installing the used filter, no charge for the new cat converter. I'm getting ready to drag my camper 2,000 miles to test out the new system.
 
$6000 still stinks, but sounds like it was better than it could have been. Good luck on that 2000 mile "test".

j
 
Is anyone using a dash camera. Looking at the Yada road cam Pro 4k but has mixed reviews. Just wondering what others may be having luck with.
 
I started out with a Kingslim D4, which was ok but had issues. After 2 years in the heat it gave up. I did a LOT of research after that and the more expensive from blackvue and vantrue are highly recommended. However, they are stupid expensive for what you get. I ended up going with a Rove R3 as I wanted front and rear dash cam (this has 3, but I disabled the in cab camera.) I felt that Rove balanced affordability with features and reliability. I also have an Rove R2-4k I use in rental cars and my wifes car. They now make and R2-4k dual which is front and rear camera as well.
 
After leaving Auburn Alabama I drove about 700 miles to Nashville TN and Hannibal MO with the check engine light on. When I got back home to just west of Chicago I went to my dealer. The mechanic who did the rest of the work said the variable speed turbo actuator was the problem. Now they are trying to figure out who will pay for it since the actuator usually can't be replaced easily, a full new turbo is probably the best choice. I'm glad I like this truck.
 
Loss of trailer brakes with new GM trucks:
The recall for the Trailer Brake control module exasperated and gave us braking failure. We were fine before the recall.

It's a rogue electrical signal from the Trailers Solar Power system back-feeding thru the trucks "Trl Batt Chrg" AKA #7 on the plug circuit and corrupting the board in the module.

Remove the fuse and you will restore your trailer brakes. It does nothing more than charge the trailer batteries and is redundant with the trailers solar power system.
In our case it was 30 AMP fuse in the #83 spot in the trucks fuse box.

It's location varies from year to year and truck model and options.

That fuse used to be in a plastic pocket in the owners manual for the owner to install if they wanted the truck to charge the trailers battery. If you forgot to unplug the truck when dry camped you may end up with a dead truck battery in the morning.

Now the truck comes with that fuse installed hence the issues.


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FWIW:

My 2012 Yukon XL is at 230K miles and I got a "check engine" light this summer. Codes said it was fuel pump related. (wouldn't crank/turn over for HOURS but finally did).

In September when I was in New Mexico I had a REPEAT perforamance (CE light, no crank/turn, finally did). Codes again related to fuel pump.

Had the fuel pump replaced last week. Not cheap. But the truck is set up the way I like it (front bike hitch, rear Aliner hitch, runs fine otherwise).

I figure the fuel pump cost is 4-6 months worth of car payments so if it extends the life of my truck that far, so much the better. Maybe @Clifton Tesh has an opinion? :rolleyes1

Bama Ed

PS - bought the truck used (1500 XL) with about 115k miles so the fuel pump I replaced might have been OE. I heard that fuel pump replacements vary with driving conditions, road conditions, load, etc. so I figure I was due on my timeline. Another 100k miles would be fine with me.
 
I'm impressed the pump lasted that long once it started acting up. My experience is once they start misbehaving, they keep getting worse. That pump is in the fuel tank, right. PIA having to drop the tank, but you should be good to go for a while.

j
 
Always gotta weigh the cost of repair vs. cost of replacement. My current workhorse is doing well, though have considered selling it and ordering something new. If I did order new, it would likely be the last truck I would buy. though hard to think of that when the current one is serving me well the last 8 years.
 
Always gotta weigh the cost of repair vs. cost of replacement. My current workhorse is doing well, though have considered selling it and ordering something new. If I did order new, it would likely be the last truck I would buy. though hard to think of that when the current one is serving me well the last 8 years.
We thought the same. Put a deposit on the Denali EV but the $130k OTD price was ridiculous. We got our deposit back but local dealer ordered it anyway and there it sits on the lot almost 2 months later
 
That pump is in the fuel tank, right. PIA having to drop the tank, but you should be good to go for a while.

::yes::

My mechanic guy of over 30+ years explained that to me and when I called him to ask to do the replacement, he asked me to bring it in with a nearly empty fuel tank to make it easier to drop, work, then lift back.
 
We thought the same. Put a deposit on the Denali EV but the $130k OTD price was ridiculous. We got our deposit back but local dealer ordered it anyway and there it sits on the lot almost 2 months later
I don't even like the top trim levels. 350 DRW Lariat 4x4 diesel.....probably come in in the 90's with what I want. For refernce when I bought my current in 2016, new was going fro about 65k, I got my 2012 for 44k certified used with 22k miles on it. I just don't expect to find that deal anytime soon for anything 2020-2024.
 
We got $71.000 for our 2020 on trade in.
Dealer knocked about $15K off our 2024 MSRP and threw in another $5K in dealer installed options if we were willing to order it.
No sunroof, no super cruise, no heads up display, no murdered-out black chrome, no nothing I don't need nor want to pay for.

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On new vehicles, always ask the service dept to UPDATE the vehicles brains before delivery. Our 2024 Dually had 5 ECU updates. I keep a 10MM wrench in the glove box to disconnect the batteries if I have to reset it if it throws codes and goes into walk mode.

Friend just this past week bought a new Hummer EV. 0 - 60 in 11.6 seconds. Fast for a Dog and kid hauler.
Dealer didn't do the updates and on that delivery day the dealer sent this to his home to bring it back to service. Bricked is the new term for EVs that quit on ya.

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