Ohaiyogozaimasu Japan

[Aussie Wendy]

Cont day 2

This was the Ryogen Kannon next door, 24m high built to honour the Japanese dead in WW2.

Outside were several interesting shrines. In this one the Temmangu Ox-will bear your sufferings for you and take your ailments away-hubby giving it a go rubbing it all over he has so many ailments!

Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Kita-no-Mandokoro-wishing for a happy marriage and peace

We continued wandering north along the roads-lots of rickshaws were about now pulled by enthusiastic youths in the same outfits with unusual two- toed shoes-we noticed they managed to most often persuade young girls or couples to have a go! Up and down the hills-a hard way to earn a living especially when two plump westerners jump on board! Since my hubby is one of those unadventurous types “you don’t want to waste money on that” we did not share the fun

Form a shop that sells them on the web as didn't get a close up there

We passed Chion-in and its huge San-mon (temple gate)-largest wooden gate in Japan.

Also a large camphor tree outside Shoren-in (where we would be back later for light-up)

We ended up at Nanzenji complex of temples and I was on a mission to find Nanzenji Oko-no-in-reported by Lonely Planet as up a valley behind the aquaduct so off I set. I found it easy but quite a steep hike upwards and very pretty and peaceful with a small waterfall in a gorge and a small open shrine and several alters in caves. Wooded steps led off up through the forest and I believe you can hike 5km or so to the top of Mt Daimonji that way.

The aquaduct crosses the grounds and still has water in it.

Hunger was calling so we started walking back along Nioman-dori beside Lake Biwa canal (the zoo was on the other side and sounded busy with children as it was still spring break for many).

I am embarrassed to say we stumbled first across a MacDonalds-we were very hungry, we were tired and it was there! We had very good special “American burger” with egg “sets” with fries and coke and I was impressed by a washbasin and soap in the corner to wash hands rather than have to muck about in the toilets. Thus fortified but failing totally in eating Japanese, we embarked onwards seeking a bus stop. Passed the huge torii marking the entrance to Heian Shrine

and found our bus stop. Very tired and sore feet later and via a trip to a supermarket Fresco to buy supplies for the week (fun in itself though this was where I made my butter and cheese muddle but we did buy milk! and ready made chicken and rice dishes to heat up plus lots of other yummy stuff we couldn’t resist) we collapsed in our tatami room with tea and biccies and did some interneting (free wifi) back home.

Since it was such nice weather we went out for a wander again this evening after dinner at home -ended up all the way near Maruyama Park and Yasaka shrine looking very pretty with all the lanterns lit at night. Discovered several temples are doing evening light-up-linked to hanami including Kiyomizu and Shoren-in another small pretty temple. From Yasaka the glitz of downtown Gion and Karawamachi pulled so we wandered along the busy shopping streets, over the river and past department stores and lots of souvenir stores and found a quiet canal off the main drag before finding our way home to our quiet little hideaway.

Some evening pics

Yasaka shrine

 

[PrincessInOz]

Kyoto looks gorgeous. Love where you were staying.

 

[battymum]

Love it!!! It looks like so beautiful.

Where did you find the place your accommodation - would it fit 3 teens in the tatami room? - they dont need too much room, or are there others slightly bigger.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

I rented the place through the private accommodation website VRBO which I haven't seen much mention of here in Aus but seems popular in the US. Acco Nomura owned it and was wonderful and so helpful before and during the rental. Yes it would sleep 5-there were 3 futon available for use in the tatami room and the double in the western bedroom. It would be a bit of a squeeze as apart from around the dining table there's not a lot of places to sit if the tatami room is full of futons (though nice to laze on and watch TV with DVDs which is in there-and of course Japanese style you are meant to roll your futon up during the day-we were too lazy).

It was very handy with a bus stop and 7-11s and a full supermarket quite close by and is in a lovely touristy shopping area near all the best temples if you ask me! Also the Keihan railway statin was in walkable distance. Other stuff I might not have mentioned- we had free wifi access, a washing machine with built-in dryer (and a small drying line outside) and 2 pushbikes you could use. Cost us 16,000Y per night for 2 and 2000Y extra for each night that our daughter was there which was about on par with what prices we were getting for hotels-a little deareer than some but being able to cook for ourselves saved $. We loved it and would highly recommend.

VRBO had a number of self contained places in Kyoto to check out though - some of which might be more roomier thoughthis is Japan! and I presume probably ones in Tokyo too if you were interested.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

and yes 3 teens would comfortably fit in the tatami room and probably take it over as their own! leaving you and your partner to sit quietly round the table downstairs with a cuppa/or a glass of sake or wine (wine and beer were dear) before departing to your own quiet bedroom.

 

[battymum]

Thanks - off to check VRBO now!

I am still early stages of research - but your TR is giving me so much inspiration!!

Its so annoying that all of the hotel searches wont let you book further than three months out - I cant even compare this years prices as April has now passed (well almost) so I have no idea whether I will be able to get reasonably priced accommodation for our family - which is what the whole trip depends upon.

I love reviews on the Dis - I feel they are a little more honest and reliable than Trip Advisor.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Yes I found it hard only being able to find out and book 3 months out-at first I wondered what on earth was the issue and was it cherry blossom season? (which it was and that didn't help but it was mostly the 3 month thing). I still like TA too-eg often helpful to find out what is and isn't in a room, and get a sense-certainly can tell if somewhere is considered awful by a lot of people. It hasn't ever sent us wrong-but for places where the Disboarders go then yes Dissers are very reliable!

Good luck with your plotting and costings-it is certainly a different experience and we found it very enjoyable as the Trip report shows. I had pages covered with scribblings of places and prices for April but sorry they were ditched once I locked places down through Feb. so can't refer to them to give you any clues. We did find business hotels cheaper and though didn't have large rooms still worked out cheapish to book a twin bed room for us (bigger beds-watch that if you stay at other than the big international chains-doubles are often semi-doubles-not much bigger than a single so we always booked a twin bed-also often bit bigger room) and a single room for our daughter. In Kanazawa paid around $100/night for us and $56/night for daughter though if your teens are happy on futons a triple Japanese tatami room that sleeps 3 for them and twin bed for you would be cheaper option poss. I just worked figures based on prices they had published when I was looking and for trial costing presumed they wouldn't change much by season-and they didn't seem to-up a bit for eg Golden Week and prices from last year to this I seem to recall did not increase so it was a pretty good guide.

 

[simzac]

What a terrific TR. And fantastic photos to go along with it. Thank you very much. I still want to get to TDR, just keeps getting harder with each passing year. Threads like this one can at least keep me abreast on how beautiful this park is. Glad you and your family had a great time.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 3 Friday 30 March

It wasn’t as warm as yesterday today but the cloud cover burnt off for a while in the middle of the day. We set off around 8.30 after breakfast and caught the bus all the way around to Shijo Omiya station (bought a one day pass on board-good value at ¥500). Nice way to see some more of the city and hubby was plotting the route as we went on the map on board matching the Japanese characters but they announced and scrolled in English each stop ahead. Found the Kei***u electric railway line and hopped on the very cute ‘Randen’ to Arashiyama. The white gloved conductors in their smart grey uniforms were so formal-you can see the guy in the pic looking at me taking a pic thinking “Not again”.

This railway was like a tram and a nice ride to the small town on the western outskirts of Kyoto. We found Arashiyama had a lot of character but tired ourselves out wandering around without seeing the infamous world heritage Todoji temple and gardens. This was because we walked from the station down to the river to look at the Togetsukyo Bridge (Moon Crossing Bridge) and then along the riverbank deciding the steep hill opposite leading up to the monkey park was too much effort. (Think we might have overdone it a tad yesterday!!)

Instead we entered Kameyama-koen and went up to the lookout where we saw the Saga romantic train travelling through to Kameoka.

Noticed especially here how different the woods smell in Japan-strong Asian spice smell. Met a group of gorgeous young kids (looked like a child care centre group) on a picnic who chorused "ohaiyo gozaimasu" to us as we almost got lost amongst the paths but found our way down to the bamboo groves.

Here there were lots of tourists but most disappeared as we wandered northwards along narrow back roads, past fields and houses, towards the cluster of temples. I bought an ornament of my Chinese zodiac sign (with a bell-plan to hang on the Xmas tree) in a little shop along the way and further along in the Saga-Toriimoto preserved street area also bought very pretty notelets for gifts (turned out cheaper than we saw elsewhere).

A roadside shrine

We chose to enter Gioji out of the several temples on offer. This is a tiny temple with a thatched roof nestled in the woods with a beautiful moss garden. It was named for a dancer in the Heain period, Gio, who committed herself here as a nun when she was 21 when her love for a chieftain was spurned. It was quiet and tranquil and very pretty.

We wandered back along towards the main town and made the decision we were too tired and templed out to visit Todojai. Guidebooks recommend hiring a bike to explore Arashiyama and having explored the town now that makes a lot of sense. We saw plenty of people doing just that (and getting temporarily lost!) Back by the train station we bought steaming bowls of udon noodles in broth that we ate with chopsticks plus much slurping-of course - on a tray on our knees (and we didn’t take a picture!!! Too hungry I guess).

We then caught the train back into Kyoto but changed trains to the other branch line up to Kitanohaku-baicho station where we hopped on a bus to Kinkakuji. Followed other tourists milling around (“which way do we go”-they really need some signs from key bus stops!) to the infamous “gold” temple. We liked this temple the least-the gold was stunning but otherwise it was very crowded, very regimented and seemed very commercialised. We stopped to look at one or two key spots in the garden and made our way out. Here are some obligatory shots!

I nearly forgot the close up of the phoenix on top

Pretty screens on one of the sub-temples or halls.

Another bus took us to the start of the Philosopher’s Path (after abandoning us in the underground of a major station interchange for like 30 mins. We had thought yaay we scored seats but after beeing off-loaded and waiting and waiting our replacement bus was already quite full so it was back to standing and hanging on-sigh!) I thought a stroll would decide if it would be a good place to bring our daughter to on Monday as it was on her “possible” list. It would be stunning when cherry blossoms were out but they were still in bud. Being by now late afternoon, it was a nice quiet stroll (our legs had had a bit of a rest on the bus…not) with some very attractive houses and cafes and woods along the way. 2km or so later and a bus near the end took us home again (yes seats) for another nice dinner in (spaghetti).

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Thanks Simzac-makes it easier living a bit closer than you. In fact I worked out if we keep getting airfares as we have its cheaper than a trip to LA. I really needed longer to check out all of Disneyland-we skipped so much, as well as Disneysea. A week just at TDR might not be out of the question in the future again for us! but trips always compete with new destinations and places. I love that there is so much variety between all the Disney resorts to enjoy and explore -so many things the same and different!

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 4 Sat 31 March

Not as successful a day. When I woke up and it was raining that should have been a sign to turn over and spend the morning sleeping in. But I had plans-I had always wanted to see a Japanese castle. Himeji was under wraps for a major renovation but an hour away was Hikone-another “national treasure” castle in a lakeside town and one of only 12 castles in Japan that still have their original keep. In defence it was barely drizzling when we left. Big mistake 1. At the station found the ticket machines-tick, checked the price to our destination-tick, got the ticket and our change-tick, checked the platform guide-tick? Dinng that should have been a cross. I sail onto the platform and we wait-but the train I had in my notes-a JR Tokaido special rapid-did not appear. Other trains on the “Tokaido” line did however. Our train to Kanazawa for Tuesday also did. That should have been a clue. I was concerned no trains matched my notes or times. I ran up and down the platform but there were no clues or train maps in English and after 40 mins when a train to Nagoya appeared and I knew that was at least the right direction on we hopped. Big mistake no 2. Not long after getting on I had the sinking feeling-we’ve made a mistake and was at least partly relieved when after interminable Japanese scrolling, in English the word Maibara come up. Along comes the gloved conductor-very polite bowing to the carriage. We offered our tickets – “we got on the wrong train” I say pitifully. He looks confused, he frowns, he shakes his head, he pulls out his calculator and does lots of calculating and produces a ticket, Graham hands over several of our precious ¥1000 notes, and he bows and leaves. But the train didn’t look anything like a shinkasen!! Luckily I knew we had to get off at Maibara. This is a tiny draughty station, the rain is bucketing down and it is freezing-guess who didn’t bring her warm coat today-Big Mistake 3. Paranoid now-how do we know which train to catch to double back to Hikone? Trains pull in going back the other way but what if they are express and skip it-or worse a “forbidden” expensive train again? Up the stairs to the men at the exit. We hand over our combined tickets “Hikone?” They point out around the corner. There are signs to what appears to be a local train line but the entrance is undergoing major rebuilding work in the pouring rain. It doesn’t look right. Back inside and we find ticket machines to local destinations so we buy our tickets to Hikone and back through the turnstyles-the friendly guards point downstairs to the platform we arrived on. At last when what appears to be an older-style train pulls up I ask the conductor who conveniently hops off-Hikone? He smiles and waves us on board. 5 mins later and we have arrived-finally!

Outside it is bucketing down, in the heated TIC which is packed with tourists escaping the weather a little lady rushes up handing us a map to the town. Not to be defeated on go raincoats, up go the brollys and off we set, taking heart from the fact in front of us several obvious Japanese tourists are getting drenched but have the same intent-to the castle!

First this unusual turtle sculpture is outside-not sure what it all means.

The approach is really enchanting with a double moat and the white turreted walls and watchtowers. However I quickly realise the difficulties in juggling a bag, a brolly and a camera with numb fingers whilst endeavouring not to get anything soaked. Hubby trudges on ahead oblivious to my wanting to stop and look and take a pic. Dinng. Low battery coupled with the cold-well I won’t be taking any pics today-should have brought the spare batteries. Big Mistake 4. I managed to squeeze one out with lots of removing and putting back in the batteries.

The castle is very good. We only bought the entrance to the castle rather than a combo ticket to the garden as well. In different weather I would have included this as it sounded good but not today. There were English info signs and brochures explaining various things we saw which were helpful. We went inside what I think was the Tenbin-Yagura –a long corridor over the entrance bridge which crosses the dry moat. If under attack the bridge could be quickly demolished. This is a pic of the sexy green slippers we had to wear inside here.

The demolishable bridge

Next we made our way up to the main 3 story keep. We loved the old timbers and curved beams inside (curved as stronger against the weight of snow). Very steep stairs linked the floors. There are hidden rooms accessed through the panelling inside the gables-no idea what for (you can’t go in just see the entrance) and covered openings for weapons that can’t be seen from outside as they are plastered over but from inside are only a light cover to break away and fire at the enemy.

Like the way the gables all cross each other

You can just see the double moats here and in the background, the grey is huge Lake Biwa.

There were lots of other structures in the complex too but it really was too wet to be enjoyable and the rain by now had soaked the bottom of our jeans and was creeping steadily upwards. We left accompanied to the great bell ringing out the hour to the townspeople below

and exited a different way via the plum garden where some flowers were out.

There was even a ‘yakata-bune’ Japanese boat on the moat though who would pay for a ride in weather such as this I am not sure!

Trudging back to the train station skipping the restored historical street area as it was the wrong direction for the train station, we got wetter and wetter. A pair of drowned rats boarded the correct train to Kyoto and bus for home. Ironically the rain had stopped and it was drying out-if I had left our expedition til after lunch it would have been a very different day! As it was a long hot soak in the Japanese bath, hot tea and toasted sammies and we were new people.

It fined up so much (though stayed very cold) that on dusk we walked up to Kiymoizu-dera and paid to visit the temple for hanami light-up. Only parts of the complex were open at night but it was very pretty and perhaps not as crowded as by day. Hard to take pics without a tripod though-Princess in Oz would have been in her element especially with the reflecting pond.

Afterwards we browsed the shopping streets nearby sampling free green tea and rice flour and bean paste sweets that are popular in Kyoto-every other shop sells beautifully wrapped boxes-not overly fussed though, very sweet. Amazed today and every day by the number of Japanese eating icecream by the way-no matter how cold it is-and there are a plethora of icecream shops everywhere.

Then home to bed-it is great to be in a mob of tourists and able to suddenly turn off, down our little lane, into a dramatically contrast quiet.

 

[PrincessInOz]

WOW! I can see I'm going to have to plan a trip for my tripod to go to Japan sooner rather than later.

A whole week at TDL??? Hmmm......

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Double hmmm-I think you should start scheming!! Some places had no tripod signs-like I think Kinkakuji (the golden temple) but by day you don't need it and I think Shoren-in light-up (piccies still to come). Evening light-ups are only around cherry blossom and autumn foliage times and vary between temples.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 5 Sun 1 April
Fine start to the day-so different to yesterday. Had a slow start and at Kyoto Station had a look around. It’s very modern and open. Could see most of Kyoto city from the sky garden up top.

Purchased a JR Kansai West Pass for the day’s expeditions and caught the train to Nara and then the bus that was waiting outside to Nara-koen-the park where all the temples are. The deer are everywhere once you get close-lots and lots of them getting in the way of people and traffic.

So cute but note this sign:

We hopped off at the stop for the most famous temple Todai-ji and after sampling some grilled dango (rice balls) topped with sweet soy sauce

we entered past the Nandaimon gate with the huge fierce guardians (carved in C13th)

and then to the Daibatsu-den Hall which houses Japan’s largest bronze Buddha (contains 130kg of gold).

It is believed that its construction was ordered by the emperor as a talisman to protect the town against smallpox. The building is also the world’s oldest wooden building though this building dating from 1692 is only 2/3 size of the original temple.

We skipped the pillar which has a hole in it which is said to be the same size as the Daibutsu’s nostril. If you can squeeze through supposedly you will be granted enlightenment in your next reincarnation-popular with little kids and a HUGE queue.

This ugly dude is actually meant to be good and takes away your ailments if you rub the corresponding part of the body-everyone must have knee issues as the knees and feet were rubbed shiny! (also of course all you could reach!)

 

[Aussie Wendy]

continued

Back amongst the deer was hilarious. The deer have learnt to bow for food and as I stopped to take a picture I feel a tug-and there is a deer with his nose buried in my bag seeing if there is anything tasty in it. I didn’t end up getting that perfect shot! They do sell special food you can buy to feed the deer with. We walked up a path through the woods to the Nigatsudo Hall with views of Nara from its balcony. Found a convenient park bench nearby to eat the sandwiches I had packed and finally tried a tin of hot coffee from a vending machine opposite-not very hot and a bit too sweet but not bad, and warming as the sun had gone in and it was getting chilly.

We congratulated ourselves on avoiding the deer as a lone deer crept up on a couple sitting not too far away and after snuffling in the women’s hair several times as she kept making shoeing motions and trying to steal their lunch they escaped sandwiches in hand. The deer didn’t notice us and we got to eat in peace.

We moved on around to Kasaga Taisha shrine and the rain bucketed down-out came our trusty brollies and we sheltered under some big trees so stayed quite dry. This shrine is dedicated to the diety responsible for protection of the city and is in the woods with the approach lined with 100’s of stone lanterns-very atmospheric in the gloom.

Doing the obligatory washing of hands (skipped the washing of mouth) as part of the ritual before you pray at a shrine. Instead of the usual dragon this had a deer.

At a nearby shrine a family circles it three times ringing the bell each time to call the gods-the kids were killing themselves laughing.

Continued making our way and I took a path that I figured led in the general direction to cut across the park to the Ukimi-do-a gazebo built over the Sagi (Heron) pond which looked scenic on websites. The path deteriorated into a muddy track and we popped out on a hillside bereft of people (and deer) which I thought was pretty neat in busy Nara.

Where is everybody?

Just across the road however was my pond. There was a marriage ceremony happening so we didn’t walk out but did take some shots of the bride and groom on the gazebo and by the pond. The sun was now out again and it was lovely and warm.

We strolled back towards town past the Kofuguji Pagoda, the tallest in Japan

and through a little shopping arcade.

Consensus-we really liked Nara. It was a nice size and a nice “feel” to it. We had a mission however-to reach Kansai airport and meet our daughter’s plane.

We caught the train into Osaka and I decided we had time to detour into Dotonbori and have a quick look at the canal and shops and grab an early dinner. Wrong. We discovered later we walked out the wrong side of the station-it was a maze of covered arcade shopping-with lanes leading right and left-noisy, chaotic and confusing. Help! Escaping we headed back towards the station and found a tiny Japanese ramen café where we bought a steaming bowl each and some tempura vegetables that came cold and you dipped in the hot broth to eat (I presume-problem was then the tempura coating dropped off. Maybe someone wiser in Japanese food traditions can explain to me). Anyway it was mighty good. Back on the train and we arrived at the Kansai airport 10 mins after our daughter-she was just thinking “where are they”? She should be used to us-always late! But she had cleared customs in 20 mins unlike our huge wait. With our new knowledge it was the easiest thing in the world to go and get her a Kansai pass at the JR counter (open til 11pm at the airport), catch the train and then the bus and a short walk to “home”. She instantly fell in love with our little house-why am I only here for a day she wailed. Soon had her futon made-up and we all hit the sack.

 

[PrincessInOz]

*sigh* Yes. Sooner rather than later, I think. I just don't know when.

Your shots are lovely. Makes me wish I were there.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Mon 2 April A very long packed day

Had to hit the sightseeing trail early today with lots to pack in for our daughter’s one full day in Kyoto. Luckily it was one of those beautiful sunny days-and my sunburnt nose from Thurs/Fri was feeling very scared-hence I walked around with a scarf wrapped over it looking ridiculous half the day. (We hadn’t got around to trying to find suntan lotion at a chemist after the weather turned bad but even yesterday in between rain I had managed to get it more burnt. DH would say its because its so long and pointy however…).

First stop for the day was Fushimi Inari, a couple of train stops south. We walked to the Keihan railway station by the river.

Fushimi Inari is an important Shinto shrine established in the 700’s but its famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates which lead up into the hill behind the main buildings. It is the head shrine of 30,000 shrines across Japan dedicated to Inari, the Shinto God of rice. Foxes are said to be Inari’s messengers hence all the fox statues (the fox is a sacred, somewhat mysterious figure capable of possessing humans-favoured point of entry under the fingernails so beware). Often the fox has a key in its mouth which is the key for the rice granary. It was very impressive especially going early when there were less visitors (also apparently going at dusk is very atmospheric).

Looking back down towards the station

Looking back to the main entrance to the shrine

A Buddhist priest hurrying along (we saw him later holding a service)

First we had to visit a sub shrine Azuma maro, the shrine for success in studies and my daughter fulfilled the ritual (purify, ring bell to get their attention, deep bow twice, clap twice, bow again, ask your request, bow again and back away reverently) asking the god for success in honours this year.

Then we headed up to the point where there are two dense parallel gates called Senbon Torii. All the tori along the way are donated by individuals and companies with the donors name and date-start at 400,000 yen ($5000) for a small one. We saw one being repainted.

We didn’t hike all the way up-lots more to do in the day but were amused by this notice-

unfortunately even though I ate a banana to encourage them we saw no monkeys! There are also lots of cats about. For those into video games it was while hiking at Fushimi-Inari supposedly that the idea of foxes in red bibs flying through gates inspired Miyamoto to create Starfox.

Nearby

A non fox fountain

Even the train station has its fox

 

[PrincessInOz]

Beautiful pictures at the shrine. I wondered if they shot some scenes from Memoirs of a Geisha at the Senbon Torii. It's probably my imagination but it sure reminds me of that movie.

Thanks for sharing. Looks like you all had a great time there. Eagerly waiting for the next installment.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Princess in Oz I gather Memoirs was filmed in quite a few spots we went to
including Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Fushimi Inari Shrine, the bamboo forest in Arashiyama and the geisha district of Gion so probably yes. Glad you are enjoying the posts-its a dilemma - do I post pics on my FB, trip report here-or read your trip report on HK!

 

[PrincessInOz]

Princess in Oz I gather Memoirs was filmed in quite a few spots we went to
including Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Fushimi Inari Shrine, the bamboo forest in Arashiyama and the geisha district of Gion so probably yes. Glad you are enjoying the posts-its a dilemma - do I post pics on my FB, trip report here-or read your trip report on HK!

No contest. Post pictures in your trip report...HERE!