Chase Disney premier visa and 0%APR

When I have a 0% offer I am always too scared to use the card for any other purchases. So while I have my 0% offer on my disney card I dont use it
Your statement will show the remaining balance(s) on the 0% offer, the date the offer(s) end, and the new charges for the past month. As long as you divide the remaining balance by the number of months remaining, add that to the new charges, and pay at least that amount, you can avoid paying any interest.

I don't find the "Interest Saving Balance" amount useful, because as mentioned previously in this thread, it assumes you will wait to pay off your promotional balance in one lump sum when it's due.

Another option to minimize computation is to round up the original balance to a multiple of 600 (for example, if I owe $3450 for an upcoming cruise, I round to $3600) and then pay 1/6 of that amount (in this example, $600) for the next 5 months in addition to your new charges. In the 6th month, pay the remaining balance plus new charges.
 
Is there any recognition of resale contract purchases for the 0% for 6 months using the Disney Visa?
 
Is there any recognition of resale contract purchases for the 0% for 6 months using the Disney Visa?
No. You are best to find a true 0% interest card, but most (all?) escrow companies do not allow you to pay the entire balance via credit card, either. You can usually pay the down payment.

When planning out a credit card strategy for resale purchases, do not assume you can place the entire cost on a credit card. (Not that you asked, but just in case!) One of the advantages of buying direct is that you can put the entire cost on a card (or multiple cards) and obtain generous sign up bonuses from the spend.
 
No. You are best to find a true 0% interest card, but most (all?) escrow companies do not allow you to pay the entire balance via credit card, either. You can usually pay the down payment.

When planning out a credit card strategy for resale purchases, do not assume you can place the entire cost on a credit card. (Not that you asked, but just in case!) One of the advantages of buying direct is that you can put the entire cost on a card (or multiple cards) and obtain generous sign up bonuses from the spend.
This has been my experience in the past, however, when purchasing a resale contact this week, I asked about the total amount the title company would allow on credit and was told $7500 without any extra fees and 3.5% for anything else above that amount. I was surprised. This was not the sponsor company, but a competitor. The sponsor company has a limit of $2500.
 
I've used the promo 6 month 0% deal before, and here is one warning. I think in the fine print, it says 6 months from the transaction date, which is shorter than 6 monthly billing cycles later by a fraction of a month. I think that is the trap to get you to pay interest after 6 months from the transaction date but before that 6th monthly billing statement comes around.
 
This has been my experience in the past, however, when purchasing a resale contact this week, I asked about the total amount the title company would allow on credit and was told $7500 without any extra fees and 3.5% for anything else above that amount. I was surprised. This was not the sponsor company, but a competitor. The sponsor company has a limit of $2500.
Yes, I was able to place $7500 on a card as well (which I did and received some nice points from it). Interesting about the 3.5% fee. You would really need to run the numbers if that is worth spending in order to get the points (likely only from a sign up bonus).
 
Is there any recognition of resale contract purchases for the 0% for 6 months using the Disney Visa?
I think that Disney would be far more interested in accessing an additional surcharge for Disney Visa deposits on resale DVC purchases. But of course they don't do that.
 
Yes, I was able to place $7500 on a card as well (which I did and received some nice points from it). Interesting about the 3.5% fee. You would really need to run the numbers if that is worth spending in order to get the points (likely only from a sign up bonus).
I shared with the sponsor that I would have liked to support them if they could match their competitor with the larger credit card deposit amount. I guess the reason the competition can allow the larger amount is because they don’t have a financing company under their large umbrella of businesses. I’m not sure why else the sponsor would not want to compete.
 
I shared with the sponsor that I would have liked to support them if they could match their competitor with the larger credit card deposit amount. I guess the reason the competition can allow the larger amount is because they don’t have a financing company under their large umbrella of businesses. I’m not sure why else the sponsor would not want to compete.
I assume that people who understand the market at the level of those on this board maybe represent 2% of overall DVC ownership. So the board sponsor has 98% of the market to deal with. But in terms of my life, I've mostly limited my purchases to two brokers and two title companies. I know the system there and am comfortable. Without mentioning names, I think--with an exception here and there--that the better values tend two come from two brokers and that one or two title companies have more advantageous terms for buyers. Again, sometimes there's an outlier bargain at another company (I'm thinking of that CCV contract for $113pp in early fall) but generally there's a couple of brokers who price low and move contracts fast and others who price higher and simply wait for someone to come along.
 
I've used the promo 6 month 0% deal before, and here is one warning. I think in the fine print, it says 6 months from the transaction date, which is shorter than 6 monthly billing cycles later by a fraction of a month. I think that is the trap to get you to pay interest after 6 months from the transaction date but before that 6th monthly billing statement comes around.
Dealing with this now and cant get a straight answer from Chase. My current bill is due date 02/03, my 0% ends on 02/06. One rep said I had to pay in full by 02/03 to avoid interest charges, then I get an email saying my autopay for my interest savings balance is $40 (minimum due), so I call and ask again and they say I only have to pay $40 to avoid interest until the next due date.
 
Dealing with this now and cant get a straight answer from Chase. My current bill is due date 02/03, my 0% ends on 02/06. One rep said I had to pay in full by 02/03 to avoid interest charges, then I get an email saying my autopay for my interest savings balance is $40 (minimum due), so I call and ask again and they say I only have to pay $40 to avoid interest until the next due date.

I was always told that if the date was in between cycles that you had to pay it off by the due date regardless and that while the minimum is set because of the cycle, it doesn’t mean that once you pass the 6th, you continue the free interest.

So, I’d get it paid by the 6th.
 
I was always told that if the date was in between cycles that you had to pay it off by the due date regardless and that while the minimum is set because of the cycle, it doesn’t mean that once you pass the 6th, you continue the free interest.

So, I’d get it paid by the 6th.
Thanks!

Better safe than sorry with that crazy high interest rate they charge.
 
It can be used for initial purchases/the entire contract as well.

Could be particularly useful for say an add on that you want to pay off over 9 months.
thought it was 6 months...?
 
If you break up the billing for the 90 days, which is being reported DVC may be changing it to 60…you can get up to the 9 months.
I’m bought in March 20222 and my last payment was made in Dec 20222
When I bought in June 2022 they let me do it, but I really had to push to do the 90 days...

I got the sense my guide had to be able to say that, in good faith, he did everything he could to not have it be over 90 days. I didn't have to say something like "I won't do this if it isn't payments over 90 days", but it took repeated statements on my part that my preference was 90 days, not 60.
 
When I bought in June 2022 they let me do it, but I really had to push to do the 90 days...

I got the sense my guide had to be able to say that, in good faith, he did everything he could to not have it be over 90 days. I didn't have to say something like "I won't do this if it isn't payments over 90 days", but it took repeated statements on my part that my preference was 90 days, not 60.
So interesting how it varies per guide. In June 2024, I asked if we could spread payments over 90 days and it was an immediate yes, no problem. He also asked me how much I wanted to put down as a deposit. I deferred to him to suggest a number, but I did wonder how little I could have put down, in hindsight.

That being said, we have seen a few reports in 2025 of a max of 60 days. It will be interesting to see further data points and if this is an actual shift or just some guides not wanting to extend out. I also saw someone suggest it might be a new vs existing owner policy difference, and that new members only get offered 60 days? (I was an existing member when I bought direct.)
 
I don't think it varies by guide so much as it varies over time.

My guess: it's a slippery slope that slowly gets extended as guides push to make a sale. One day, 30 days is the norm, but a few guides manage to push for 60 by calling in a favor with their management. Over time, 60 becomes the norm, at which point a few guides manage to push for 90 by calling in a favor. Then that becomes the norm, and at some point the metrics show that the average delay from purchase to closing is long enough that they are no longer booking enough revenue in the current quarter, and word comes down from on high: "The Limit Is 30."

And, it starts all over again.
 















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