# *Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*



## PaHunter

Since no one else wanted  to start it. Here we go.

We now own a 2013 Chevy 3500 Dually. We get 20-21 MPG on the highway, and 16 locally. Haven't towed trailer any distance, so will know after our Feb trip what we are getting there.
Only modification to the truck so far is the addition of a fumoto valve, for oil changes.


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## Teamubr

This should be retitled the "Burp, Grunt and Scratch" thread.

But here you go.

Current truck- 2011 F350 long bed crew cab 4X4 dually 6.7 diesel. Daily driver to and from work (30 miles-2/3 highway) I get 15-16 mpg overall. That's doing 75-80 highway speeds. I tried slowing down to about 65-70 for a tank of gas and got 17-18ish. The irritation wasn't worth the savings.
Only mod is a 60 gallon auxiliary fuel tank in the bed.

Prior truck- 2008 F350 crew cab short bed 2WD single rear wheel 6.4 diesel- First year of the DPF/Regen/DEF emission engines. Hated that truck. It would get stuck on flat wet grass. Also got horrible fuel mileage- Keeping it 65-70 on the highway, I got 12-13 mpg. Traded it after 3 years with 30,000 miles on it. Zero mods.

Before that- 2002 F250 crew cab short bed 2WD single rear wheel- 7.3 diesel. Loved that truck. 168,000 miles when I traded. 15-18 mpg depending on driving habits and what setting the chip was on. Stock, it made 275HP/525 lb/ft torque. Mods: 5 position BullyDog chip- top setting 150+ HP, MBRP stainless 4 inch exhaust, turbo back, Turbonetics intercooler. Cold air box. de-baffled turbo pedestal and stainless high pressure oil balance lines. A-Pillar gauges- EGT, Boost, Fuel pressure. Max HP/Tq: 416/824 <-- Essentially the same as my stock 2011 6.7 (400/800)

This truck, running at the 125 HP setting consistently got 16-17 mpg driving my usual (too fast) back and forth to work. My 2011 weighs 1500 lbs more than the 2002, has about the same HP/Tq, is wider and taller than the 02 and gets essentially the same mpg. Plus the 2011 can tow 7000 lbs more.

That's enough grunting and stuff for now... If you'd like to hear about the race cars... 

Edit: Forgot towing mpg: 

All towing 70-75 with my camper (not the race team trailers)
2011- 10
2008- 8-9
2002- 10-11

j


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## SouthAlabama5er

Hey this is my kind of thread!

I have a 2008 Ford F-450 crewcab 4x4.
Mods- S&B cold air intake, Spartan DashDaq Tuner, def delete. MBRP full 3" intake pipe, 93 gallon Aux tank/tool box combo. B&W turn over ball with companion fifthwheel. I run the truck on the mild 210 tune, best guess is around 500 to 550 horsepower and around 1200 ft lb of torque. It has a 4.88 gear so around 85 mph is all I'll push it.
Around town it's gets 14.5 mpg, highway 17 mpg. And towing the 5er it's close to 11.5, I tow around 75 mph on cruise. Before I tuned and did the delete it got around 12 mpg on the highway, 9 mpg in the city and 10 mpg towing. My DW calls it the Beast. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			
		
		
	


	





My Prior truck was a 2002 F-250 4x4 with the 7.3 Powerstroke, I loved that truck, it 275, 000 miles when I traded it in on this truck, the motor it in was strong but the rest of the truck was getting some age on it. It handle our old 28 ft 5er good, but I didn't feel good hooking up to a 14,000 lb 43 ft 5er and striking out with it.

They were talking about this on the other thread, but I wanted to add it on here... 
Diesel fuel prices. I buy my fuel across the stateline from my house in the great state of Mississippi (Tiggerdad's stomping ground) it's cheaper there, just checked my Gas Buddy app, It's 1.79 for Diesel. Good for folks traveling and the truckers and farmers but bad for us working in the oilfield.


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## jbrostek

My first RV was a DP, so no need for a tow vehicle.   Current is a 2006 F350 SRW Crew cab long bed.  Got it for a song after proving to the dealer it had all the known 6.0 issues.  Fixed the issues for well under what it would cost most thanks to a friends shop and doing 80% of the work myself.  Currently just shy of 178k on the clock and will be paid off in March 2016.  Planning to keep it for at least another year and then see if I can find a sweet deal on a 6.7 DRW.

Fuel mileage wise I get around 14.5 average, seen as high as 17.5 highway cruising at 75, and get between 11-12 towing the 5th wheel


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## rajak73

2007 Chevy 2500 short box.  Duramax. 80,000 miles.  Really glad we bought this, tows nice.  MPG anywhere from 10-12 depends on how much we want to push it.  Last truck was a Dodge 1998 V-10.  MPG maybe 6-7.  Told my DW after we bought the Chevy and traveled to Florida, I could get used the traveling in this truck. LOL


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## TheRustyScupper

1) I have a Tonka.
2) Gets about 5-TPM (Twinkies Per Mile).


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## Flametamr

2004 Ford F150 w/ 5.4 Triton V-8. Gets 15 to 16 on the highway and 14 around town. Towing the 2015 Open Range 315BHS it gets around 8 mpg. We just traded up 4 months ago from a Bullet bumper pull. The Fifth wheel pulls much easier going down the road. My truck seems to have the power for it and will easily tow at 75. Obviously it is a strain though and being right at the weight limit I feel like I really want to make the jump to a diesel. The problem is my truck is paid off and I'm really enjoy not having a payment. I love my truck except being limited on towing.


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## tiggerdad

Burping and scratching...

Mine is a 2012 F-250 Lariat with the 6.7L turbo diesel.  I haven't done any of the mods to this point so it is still factory stock (though considering, except it would void my 100,000 mile warranty).  The kids call it The Brahma Bull.  I get about 17 mpg riding around town but around 9 mpg pulling the camper on the interstate around 72 mph.  I put in a 60 gallon auxillary fuel tank in the back which gives me enough fuel to make it from Meridian to Fort Wilderness without stopping.

My camper is a 2012 Jayco 32BHDS.  It was the only camper we could find at the time that had the layout that we wanted for us and the kids at the time.  Since then some 5th wheel models have come out with more desirable layouts and the wife is pushing for a trade (thanks SouthAlabama5er...)  It pulls very well, the weight distribution hitch keeps things nice and the truck doesn't hesitate at all pulling it, but I wonder if I wouldn't get better fuel mileage by moving to the 5er.


My last big truck was a 2003 F-250 with the 7.3 before Ford went to the 6.0.  I loved that truck but needed an upgrade.  It got 16 mpg city, but pulled this same camper at 12 mpg but I did have it chipped and air intake converted.  It was 2wd so that helped with interstate pulling and fuel mileage.  I had no problems with that truck and actually hated to part with it.

My other truck, for everyday driving and farm use it my old trusty 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4.  Bought it new in 1997 and have been proud of its performance and durability.  Has over 175,000 miles on the 2.7 liter 4-cylinder and still gets about 19 mpg on gas.  It is known as Old Crow to me, the kids don't get the joke...then again, neither do most people.  Currently it is in the shop for some needed repairs from its long life.  Getting a new head as I finally cracked the last one.  Looking forward to its return as I did not buy the F-250 for everyday driving.  Parking at the hospital can be a bear.


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## TheRustyScupper

tiggerdad said:


> for everyday driving and farm use it my old trusty 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. Bought it new in 1997 and have been proud of its performance and durability. Has over 175,000 miles on the 2.7 liter 4-cylinder


 

1) Those things go on FOREVER.
2) I would not be surprised to hear you reach 300,000 miles.  *
.
_* I managed a Class-8 (Big Rigs) truck plant, and we used these as our factory vehicles for utility purposes. And, our guys were not gentle or kind when driving them._


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## jbrostek

Wow tiggerdad only 175k on a head?  I had a 97 I bought used with 98k on it, when I sold it I was around 205k, only items I had to replace was a u-joint in the front drive shaft and all of the suspension bushings as they dry rotted.    My 1997 S10 (got again used 5 years ago) I sold with 318k on its little 2.2L 4cyl.  It needed shocks and new AC compressor in the few years I had it.  Still runs now, think its up to 350k on it now.  Current commuter car was given to me, 1987 Olds Delta 88 (Front wheel drive, 6 cyl)  only 50k original miles.  I am sure ill rack up some mileage on it over time.


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## SouthAlabama5er

jbrostek said:


> Wow tiggerdad only 175k on a head?



Apparently you haven't have the chance to ride with Tiggerdad, he bring new meaning  to the words "lead foot"! Haha!


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## tiggerdad

My tag says "IFLYLO" in reference to my speed.

The head was a tragic consequence of the head gasket letting air into the cooling system and she pegged hot really fast.  My own fault as I knew the gasket was leaking for some time but didn't act on it.  Oh well, first time in the shop for anything so can't say too much.  I'll stack it up against any of the smaller pickups coming off the lot today.

I like @TheRustyScupper  truck best so far, sorry guys.


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## bama_ed

My truck is blue.  Bama Ed


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## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> My truck is blue.  Bama Ed



That thing can haul more goods and people than anything mentioned so far.


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## Teamubr

Pictures??? You didn't say to post pictures. All I can say is, you started it.

Here is my TT I had before my current 5er. The tow vehicle was a little under powered so I bought my first diesel. This pic was from 2001. That's my DS who will be 18 in a few weeks.










1400 Loop- 2005. That's my 2002 F250 and my current 5er straight ahead. 





2008 in Loop 200 with my hated 2008 and the same 5er.





2011 with my current 2011 F350 in the 100 loop and still the same 5er.





The race team toy hauler with my F350 at Heartland Park Topeka- 2014





Both race team haulers at MidAmerica Motorplex outside Omaha

j


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## PaHunter

I went looking and realized I don't have any pictures of the trailer and the new TV. Gonna have to remedy that one of these days. But not today as it is pouring rain.


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## dmaxphil

Cool thread. 

2015 Chevy 3500 Duramax - get around 17ish daily and 10-12 pulling depending...  Prior to this I've had a 2010 Tundra and before that a 2003 Chevy 3500 DRW Duramax.


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## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> 2015 Chevy 3500 Duramax -


That is a good looking truck. And that's really hard for me to say about a Chevy. 

What 5er is that? 

j


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## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> That is a good looking truck. And that's really hard for me to say about a Chevy.
> 
> What 5er is that?
> 
> j



2012 Cardinal 3450


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## ilovedisneymm

I'm driving a 2012 Dodge mini van and pulling a golf cart trailer, getting about 17 miles to the gallon.  

lol


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## dmaxphil

ilovedisneymm said:


> I'm driving a 2012 Dodge mini van and pulling a golf cart trailer, getting about 17 miles to the gallon.
> 
> lol
> 
> View attachment 138307



Sweet rig!  No worries, it's not squatting any worse than any other Dodge 2500/3500 I've seen on the road.


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## Teamubr

I'm impressed Melissa. 4 people, all their stuff and a month's worth of things. 

Nice job. And I get 17 mpg... If I keep it at 65, completely unloaded... without a head wind.

j


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## bama_ed

Here is my lashup (since we're doin' pix and all):





I put in a customized whatchamacallit and the trailer has a one-of-a-kind thingamabob.  

My 2005 Suburban 1500 LT (180k miles) is my daily commuter vehicle and I get 18 on the highway and 15 in the city and 15 towing at 65mph.

In particular I love making the drive between Lake City and the Turnpike on I75 to/from WDW.  I rubberneck in both directions at all the trailers, RV's, and tow vehicles (and even towed vehicles).


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## tiggerdad

ilovedisneymm said:


> I'm driving a 2012 Dodge mini van and pulling a golf cart trailer, getting about 17 miles to the gallon.
> 
> lol
> 
> View attachment 138307



Hey, nobody set any limits on this thread so, if you pull with it, fair game!


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## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Hey, nobody set any limits on this thread so, if you pull with it, fair game!



No limits and actually seemed that maybe a wealth of knowledge could be shared and have a central place for truck and towing questions or information.


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## peg110

bama_ed said:


> My truck is blue. Bama Ed



So is mine... (more about that in a minute).

So I used to have an F-150 XLT 5.4 Triton V8. It was actually my "FIRST" Truck. It was the "Super Crew" Cab (which is what Ford calls a Crew cab at that level). I bought it to better tow our 27' TT. The truck is regular gas and 4WD (I live in NE PA, don't know why ANYONE up here would buy a 2WD, but hey, that's me). I got about 15 MPG around town and about 22 MPG on the highway. I figured with towing that I would get about 10ish MPG since to the Fort it was mostly open highway. Boy was I wrong. I got about 5 MPG. The truck towed it fine but there was some minor struggles on steep hills. The funny thing is, that I felt like a big truck when towing. (My previous Commuter vehicle was a Jeep Cherokee and my previous TV was OLDER Suburban). So while I felt I was "Big" in my truck, I got a RUDE awakening when we spent the night at a truck stop.

We got up the next AM and I went to take our Dog for a morning walk. I was forced to take a picture of what I saw.


I didn't feel so big now. 

Alas.. that was in 2012. In 2014, the DW suggested that I upgrade the truck. I was like "SURE". SO we now have a Midnight Blue F-250 SRW V8 4WD Super Duty Crew Cab (now they call it a regular crew cab.) with the Short Box (6.5') Lariat.  A little bigger, lots more bells and whistles and I love it. It Tows much better then the F-150. Around town, though, I get about 11 MPG, Highway about 15 MPG, and towing I get about 9 MPG. What I don't like is the MPG (any of them), the Payment (lots of money that I don't want to spend), Maintenance costs (oil changes, lube, tires, etc... all much more expensive), insurance costs (much higher), registration costs (went from $36 for a car, to $56 for the 150, to $158 for the F250). I wish I had a small commuter car and I'd be much happier. Still, without any mods (should I consider some?) I am very happy with the truck. It's a comfortable drive, and a comfortable tow. Most importantly we feel safe.

The safe is important. We didn't realize how much until about 2 months ago we got rear ended (in the truck only - No camper) while stopped at a red light and we had only had minor damage (about $2k worth) to our bumper and hitch.  Unfortunately, her car was not in very good shape.

So I have a question, why does it seem like my truck gets sub-par MPG compared to what others are posting? Is it because I am Gas and not Diesel? Is it because I am 4WD and others are not? Is it MODS?  I'd be happier if I could get more MPG.


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## dmaxphil

Yes, the short answer is... Gas vs Diesel. Plus you probably have the 4:10 rear. But todays stock diesels get much worse MPG than before, which is why so many go through the various mods - once the warranty period is up. In my 2003 Silverado diesel I got around 22 mpg chipped with upgraded exhaust.


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## dmaxphil

Failed to mention - with my Tundra, is was not uncommon to get 5-7mpg towing anything larger than a lawn chair. 14 around town.


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## peg110

Well here is the Window Sticker for it.


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## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> So I have a question, why does it seem like my truck gets sub-par MPG compared to what others are posting? Is it because I am Gas and not Diesel? Is it because I am 4WD and others are not? Is it MODS?  I'd be happier if I could get more MPG.


It's the difference between a gasser and a diesel. Diesels get great fuel mileage and make HUGE amounts of torque (what you want for towing) compared to a gas engine.
Your F250 probably weighs around 7000 lbs. My old F250 2WD diesel weighed exactly 7000. That's a lot of weight for a gas motor to get moving every time you want to go. My F350 dually 4X4 weighs 8400 lbs with me in it. It makes a little more HP that your gas motor (440 vs 385) but more than twice the torque. 860 vs 405 
With diesel costing $0.20-0.30 per gallon more and the diesels being an $8,000 option, it's hard to make the math work out unless you tow a lot. But there is something for standing on the gas and getting pushed into your seat like a 747 taking off. Once the boost comes up, it just doesn't let up until you are over 80.

j


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## dmaxphil

peg110 said:


> Well here is the Window Sticker for it.
> 
> View attachment 138394



3.73. Well then, be thankful you don't have the 4.10


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## Flametamr

Picked up my camper from the dealer getting the air conditioner replaced that quit at the Fort last month. We met a nice couple from Biloxi MS there. They had an Open Range fifth wheel like mine towing it with a Ford F150. So I bothered him to ask about his truck. He has the 3.6 Eco Boost twin turbo V-6. Towing he gets around 10 mpg. He said he has tons of pickup and has towed it up into Virginia and such through hill country. I had looked at those trucks before. I may give it another look before I go with the diesel. They get about 26 mpg on the highway not towing. But obviously if I ever upgrade the camper I would have to go with a diesel.


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## dmaxphil

Flametamr said:


> 2004 Ford F150 w/ 5.4 Triton V-8. Gets 15 to 16 on the highway and 14 around town. Towing the 2015 Open Range 315BHS it gets around 8 mpg. We just traded up 4 months ago from a Bullet bumper pull. The Fifth wheel pulls much easier going down the road. My truck seems to have the power for it and will easily tow at 75. Obviously it is a strain though and being right at the weight limit I feel like I really want to make the jump to a diesel. The problem is my truck is paid off and I'm really enjoy not having a payment. I love my truck except being limited on towing.




Have you replaced the tires on the OR with LTs? If not, any tire issues going 75 ish?


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## hstrickland

Love this new thread! Especially my lurking husband...


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## Flametamr

So far no problems. Don't think it has the bad brand of tires. But I will have to double check the brand and update this post soon.


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## Teamubr

Since the topic moved to tires, anybody that's towed for a while have recent experience with Goodyear Marathons? They used to be my go to tire, but a few years ago I started exploding the sidewalls and had several with big bubbles in the sidewall. At first they said I was curbing them and damaging the sidewall, but I did have a number of them replaced under warranty after they couldn't find any evidence of damage. Ever since I have switched to something I can get a load range E trailer tire in a 14 in rim. Goodyear doesn't (or didn't) make an "E" tire in a 14 inch. The tires on my 5er are 3 or 4 years old now and I will probably be replacing them next season. We always have put trailer specific tires on all the trailers. Our tire dealers have talked us out of putting LTs on.

j


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## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> Since the topic moved to tires, anybody that's towed for a while have recent experience with Goodyear Marathons? They used to be my go to tire, but a few years ago I started exploding the sidewalls and had several with big bubbles in the sidewall. At first they said I was curbing them and damaging the sidewall, but I did have a number of them replaced under warranty after they couldn't find any evidence of damage. Ever since I have switched to something I can get a load range E trailer tire in a 14 in rim. Goodyear doesn't (or didn't) make an "E" tire in a 14 inch. The tires on my 5er are 3 or 4 years old now and I will probably be replacing them next season. We always have put trailer specific tires on all the trailers. Our tire dealers have talked us out of putting LTs on.
> 
> j


Here is my last Marathon. While they are better than the garbage the manufacturers put on, I will never buy again.  I was going to upgrade to 17.5's and go to a higher rated tire but ended up going with a similar spec Maxxis tire. Time will tell.


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## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Here is my last Marathon.


Yep. That's what mine looked like. We originally had them on the toy hauler and the car hauler too, although those were bigger and E rated. Run 12 ply commercial trailer tires on the race trailers now and I have Kumho "E"s on my 5er. They seem fine, but 4 years is about all I trust trailer tires.

j


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## bama_ed

My mechanic (who is also a Goodyear tire dealer) has been servicing my family fleet of 5 vehicles and 1 popup for 25 years.  (25 yrs ago, though, we were 2 cars only).  Based on his track record i trust him implicitly.

Last time i bought some trailer tires on my old Jayco popup, he got me some Goodyear Marathons but commented that they were being manufactured in the USA again after having been off-shored.

Its been 2 years since i bought my Aliner and the tire purchase was 3 years before that.  So don't get hung up on a brand because the tire brand name could move between continents.

Just sayin'.  

Bama Ed


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## dmaxphil

Yep. 4 is about all they are good for. I run 65mph or lower now to be safe, since that's all ST tires are rated. If these give me trouble, I'll be upgrading to 17.5" H or J rated.


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## bama_ed

hstrickland said:


> Love this new thread! Especially my lurking husband...



Heather, tell hubs we don't bite.  If he wants to do the trailer/Fort thing in the future, tell him to jump in the pool with rest of us.

I am calling him out (in a nice way).  

Does hubs have a name?

Bama Ed


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## Flametamr

Okay mine has Westlake brand.  So far no problem. I try to tow steady around 70. Not counting up and downs. Normally only tow 60 miles to the Gulf. But this year we are planning two trips to the Fort at 500 miles each way.


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## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> Pictures??? You didn't say to post pictures. All I can say is, you started it.
> 
> Here is my TT I had before my current 5er. The tow vehicle was a little under powered so I bought my first diesel. This pic was from 2001. That's my DS who will be 18 in a few weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1400 Loop- 2005. That's my 2002 F250 and my current 5er straight ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2008 in Loop 200 with my hated 2008 and the same 5er.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2011 with my current 2011 F350 in the 100 loop and still the same 5er.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The race team toy hauler with my F350 at Heartland Park Topeka- 2014
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both race team haulers at MidAmerica Motorplex outside Omaha
> 
> j



Very cool progression.


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## dmaxphil

bama_ed said:


> Here is my lashup (since we're doin' pix and all):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put in a customized whatchamacallit and the trailer has a one-of-a-kind thingamabob.
> 
> My 2005 Suburban 1500 LT (180k miles) is my daily commuter vehicle and I get 18 on the highway and 15 in the city and 15 towing at 65mph.
> 
> In particular I love making the drive between Lake City and the Turnpike on I75 to/from WDW.  I rubberneck in both directions at all the trailers, RV's, and tow vehicles (and even towed vehicles).



Nice setup. Aliners are pretty darn cool.


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## dmaxphil

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Hey this is my kind of thread!
> 
> I have a 2008 Ford F-450 crewcab 4x4.
> Mods- S&B cold air intake, Spartan DashDaq Tuner, def delete. MBRP full 3" intake pipe, 93 gallon Aux tank/tool box combo. B&W turn over ball with companion fifthwheel. I run the truck on the mild 210 tune, best guess is around 500 to 550 horsepower and around 1200 ft lb of torque. It has a 4.88 gear so around 85 mph is all I'll push it.
> Around town it's gets 14.5 mpg, highway 17 mpg. And towing the 5er it's close to 11.5, I tow around 75 mph on cruise. Before I tuned and did the delete it got around 12 mpg on the highway, 9 mpg in the city and 10 mpg towing. My DW calls it the Beast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Prior truck was a 2002 F-250 4x4 with the 7.3 Powerstroke, I loved that truck, it 275, 000 miles when I traded it in on this truck, the motor it in was strong but the rest of the truck was getting some age on it. It handle our old 28 ft 5er good, but I didn't feel good hooking up to a 14,000 lb 43 ft 5er and striking out with it.
> 
> They were talking about this on the other thread, but I wanted to add it on here...
> Diesel fuel prices. I buy my fuel across the stateline from my house in the great state of Mississippi (Tiggerdad's stomping ground) it's cheaper there, just checked my Gas Buddy app, It's 1.79 for Diesel. Good for folks traveling and the truckers and farmers but bad for us working in the oilfield.



Awesome rig. I have the same hitch setup and love it. Best in the industry in my opinion.


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## SouthAlabama5er

Don't get me started on trailer tires,... I've had 3 of the original tires develop big knots on the side wall. 









The dealer warranty cover the first the other two were outside the one year warranty. I looked on some camper forums and did some research. Having a pretty heavy 5er, I went with the Goodyear G614's a heavy duty LT tire. They are "G" rated I believe. 75 mph rated. They're not cheap at $350 a tire. But I seen where alot of people are having problems with the Marathons, I read where the Maxxis made a pretty good trailer tire.


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## SouthAlabama5er

dmaxphil said:


> Nice setup. Aliners are pretty darn cool.



Yeah, they look cool, one of the big things I'm ready for is to see Ed's at GPS. Tiggerdad said I'd be surprised at how much room it has.


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## bama_ed

Randy, tiggerdad will back me on this but...

When we both were at GSP this past summer, he and the family came by to visit and came in the Aliner.  IIRC it was him, MrsT, DD, and a Dear Niece.

MrsT said, "i like this" in reference to the Aliner.  MrT saw his future flash before his eyes.

A smaller, lighter trailer.

Better mpg towing.

Fitting into more campgrounds - even in National Parks.

No more trailer payments.

He was as shocked as i was.  The bonus was the youngsters liked it too.  It was "cute".  So he may move up in the future but he has dreams of moving down.

An Aliner is for 2-3 people.  Best for 2.  I am approaching that time of life.  I look forward to hitting the "sweet spot".

Bama Ed


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## SouthAlabama5er

Yeah, oh I hope to make to the "sweet spot" one day!


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## tiggerdad

That A-liner is one of the best engineering for room and lightweight that I think I have seen in a camper.  AND, it has a heat pump!

Stacey is now wanting to move up to a 5th wheel and I keep reminding her of this visit with Ed and his A-Liner.  She won't comment...


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## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> Stacey is now wanting to move up to a 5th wheel and I keep reminding her of this visit with Ed and his A-Liner. She won't comment...



I'm sorry Tiggerdad, but really my wife Alana pick out our 5er, so really its not 100% my fault!


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## dmaxphil

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Don't get me started on trailer tires,... I've had 3 of the original tires develop big knots on the side wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dealer warranty cover the first the other two were outside the one year warranty. I looked on some camper forums and did some research. Having a pretty heavy 5er, I went with the Goodyear G614's a heavy duty LT tire. They are "G" rated I believe. 75 mph rated. They're not cheap at $350 a tire. But I seen where alot of people are having problems with the Marathons, I read where the Maxxis made a pretty good trailer tire.



That's ugly. The G614's would've been nice, but my wheels are only rated at 80psi


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## SouthAlabama5er

Yeah the rims have to be rated for 110 psi.


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## bama_ed

So I am sitting here watching Bama turn the screws on Florida and during one of the interminable CBS commercial timeouts, Ford featured their new option for the 2016 F-150, the towing backup assist.

<sputter> <SPIT> WTH is this?

The last few years car makers have developed the ability for a CAR to parallel park itself with the driver taking their hands off the wheel for the event.

But a truck?  With a trailer?  Like it would back into a campsite by itself perfectly the first time?

Wut?  I don't believe it.






OK so I believe it.

That could mean no more watching other people back into their campsite for cheap entertainment.

And no more using my backin gif's.









What's this world coming to? 

Bama Ed


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I wanna be there when the backing assist goes crazy that would be interesting!


----------



## dmaxphil

Exactly. Something else to go wrong.


----------



## PaHunter

You turn the knob on the dash the direction you want to go, is what I read in Trailer Life. They used to call that a steering wheel.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Yeah they don't tell you about the fancy little do hickey thing that you have to buy and mount to the trailer tongue, so the camera can tell where the trailer is at. 

I seen where the 2017 Super Duty has 7 yup I said 7 cameras, at some point the words "over kill" come to mind. What well they think of next?


----------



## tiggerdad

Funny Ed, I didn't hear Eli Gold mention this on the radio.

Uuhhh...

Lets see:
A truck, call it K.I.T.T. for instance, is gonna do the backing for me?
I suppose it will also be bulletproof, have turbo boost, two television screens, and talk in really unmanly voice.


Insurance companies won't pay for damages as it is, you think they gonna pay when you say "The truck did it"?


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> Insurance companies won't pay for damages as it is, you think they gonna pay when you say "The truck did it"?





Jake from State Farm won't be able to help you!


----------



## tiggerdad

Flow's worthless self won't either.

Be protected from mayhem...like auto-backing


----------



## sirenia88

Here is the first time to the Fort.  I was towing the trailer with a 1999 Ford F150 powered by a 5.4 L V8.   It was 2012 and realized that a 1/2 ton extended cab was tight for long road trips. 








This was the set up at the Fort in November 2014.  First run to the Fort since I got the new tow rig. 


 

Random travel rig picture. My rig is in front.  My parent's rig is right behind.  They have a Jayco Kiwi towed with a 2008 Explorer powered by a 4.6 L V8.  It tows their trailer very nice.

 


This is my contribution to this thread.


----------



## dmaxphil

Nice setup! Nice truck!


----------



## tltay2005

Great thread.  Being the DW I don't really have much interest in trucks, but since we, or should I say DH, is in the market for a new tow vehicle, I will have to have him read this thread.  He has his heart set on the new 2016 Nissan Titan XD with the Cummings diesel engine.  We have a 2004 Titan now, and it has been very reliable, except for general upkeep maintenance, it has never been in the shop.  Next choice is the Toyota Tundra.  Lots of Fords and Chevy's here on this thread, maybe this thread will give him some motivation to look at all options.  We are towing a 2015 17' Keystone Hideout.  Also have a  2013 Nautic Star center console boat that we tow.  Would like to have something with a long enough bed to put the golf cart in so we don't have to make two trips.  Keep posting, love the photos!


----------



## dmaxphil

Here are some pics of my previous 2 trucks.

First Duramax. Sniff sniff. Hauled anything and everything I threw at it.  It's now working in San Antonio as a tow truck.






Tundra - hauled a popup with it. Strong truck. Horrible gas mileage.


----------



## bama_ed

dmaxphil said:


> Tundra - hauled a popup with it. Strong truck. Horrible gas mileage.



Damn good looking popup, Phil.  What is it?  <model-year>

I owned a Jayco 12 HW 2005 popup (bought it new) until I traded it for an Aliner Expedition last year.  Nearly 200 nights camping over 9 years - lots of memories.

Of course, for popups, just about anything over a minivan is fine for pulling it.

Bama Ed

PS - and anyone interested in the virtues of a popup has to only ask....

PPS - <sniff> from April 2013 in loop 100...





I think I'll go down in the garage in a dark corner by the Aliner and sob now....


----------



## dmaxphil

bama_ed said:


> Damn good looking popup, Phil.  What is it?  <model-year>
> 
> I owned a Jayco 12 HW 2005 popup (bought it new) until I traded it for an Aliner Expedition last year.  Nearly 200 nights camping over 9 years - lots of memories.
> 
> Of course, for popups, just about anything over a minivan is fine for pulling it.
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - and anyone interested in the virtues of a popup has to only ask....
> 
> PPS - <sniff> from April 2013 in loop 100...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll go down in the garage in a dark corner by the Aliner and sob now....



Thanks! 2011 Jayco 1206. I lifted it 5". Some before and after pictures below. I ended up selling for a little more than what I paid.   Also custom built a golf cart to match my Tundra specifically for the Fort, but ended up selling that too when I was made an offer I couldn't refuse.

We loved our popup but wanted a little more space.


----------



## dmaxphil

bama_ed said:


> Damn good looking popup, Phil.  What is it?  <model-year>
> 
> I owned a Jayco 12 HW 2005 popup (bought it new) until I traded it for an Aliner Expedition last year.  Nearly 200 nights camping over 9 years - lots of memories.
> 
> Of course, for popups, just about anything over a minivan is fine for pulling it.
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> I think I'll go down in the garage in a dark corner by the Aliner and sob now....



I really like those high walls. I imagine it was decently heavy?  Ours tipped the scales at 3100lbs.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> but I wonder if I wouldn't get better fuel mileage by moving to the 5er.



Believe or not you should get a little bit better, not enough worth noticing. Something to do with the air flow over the cab and the nose of the 5er, if would be the same with a travel trailer if you put a camper shell on your truck bed. Just my two cents...


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Dmaxphil, I really like that pop up with the wheels and the lift, pretty cool!


----------



## peg110

tltay2005 said:


> Great thread.  Being the DW I don't really have much interest in trucks, but since we, or should I say DH, is in the market for a new tow vehicle, I will have to have him read this thread.  He has his heart set on the new 2016 Nissan Titan XD with the Cummings diesel engine.  We have a 2004 Titan now, and it has been very reliable, except for general upkeep maintenance, it has never been in the shop.  Next choice is the Toyota Tundra.  Lots of Fords and Chevy's here on this thread, maybe this thread will give him some motivation to look at all options.  We are towing a 2015 17' Keystone Hideout.  Also have a  2013 Nautic Star center console boat that we tow.  Would like to have something with a long enough bed to put the golf cart in so we don't have to make two trips.  Keep posting, love the photos!



Tltay2005, I will say that when I went looking for our truck, I wasn't going to consider Ford. Before I got my first truck, all the vehicles I had owned were mostly either Dodge or Jeep. I did buy a fuel efficient Ford escort and kept it for less than a month. Nothing was wrong with it per se' I just didn't like it.

So when I was looking at trucks (and believe me I looked at a LOT of them), I was kind of set on getting the Chevy Silverado Crew Cab. What was important to me was, of course towing capacity, but also space for my 2 kids. As we (DW and I) were narrowing down choices, she said that we probably should look at Ford to give it a chance. Reluctantly I did. 

I have to say, that what sold me on the Ford was the space in the Crew Cab compartment. There was much more room for the kids in the cab then there was in ANY other (comparable) Truck we looked at. And the price was pretty good too. That was an F150 about 5 years ago, but 2 years ago we decided to up it to the F250 and I am extremely pleased with it as well. Another bonus (for us anyway) was that Ford was one of the only US Automakers that didn't take a government bailout. 

Not that any of the other automakers made an inferior product, but I am very pleased with my F250. It's comfortable, has space and towing capcity, and I feel very safe in it. (Several months ago we got rear-ended at a stop light and it really only damaged my bumper and hitch. Her car was totaled.) What I don't like is the Payment, Insurance, Maintenance costs, fuel mileage, registration costs, essentially all the costs are much higher over our F150 and even more so over previous Car! I guess that's what you get though, if you want a truck.


----------



## peg110

bama_ed said:


> So I am sitting here watching Bama turn the screws on Florida and during one of the interminable CBS commercial timeouts, Ford featured their new option for the 2016 F-150, the towing backup assist.
> 
> <sputter> <SPIT> WTH is this?
> 
> The last few years car makers have developed the ability for a CAR to parallel park itself with the driver taking their hands off the wheel for the event.
> 
> But a truck?  With a trailer?  Like it would back into a campsite by itself perfectly the first time?
> 
> Wut?  I don't believe it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK so I believe it.
> 
> That could mean no more watching other people back into their campsite for cheap entertainment.
> 
> And no more using my backin gif's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's this world coming to?
> 
> Bama Ed


The problem I see with this that (somehow) when backing people may end up focusing on just the camera(s) and what they see and not consider the sides of the camper (that aren't easily seen) or the "Height" of the camper and what it could connect with.

I think the best solution is to learn how to back the camper. It's not easy, but it gets easier the more you do it. While these types of tools are nice, I think, much like a calculator, you need to understand how to do it the "Manual" way before you get the "Automated" (easier?) tools.


----------



## tiggerdad

Backing a camper or trailer using your mirrors:

Put ONE hand on bottom of steering wheel.  If you want the end of the trailer to go to the right, move that one hand to the right, if you want it to go left, move that hand left.  When I say right or left, I am referencing you sitting in the seat facing forward.

Easiest way I ever learned.


----------



## PaHunter

And always listen to your significant other who is telling you, go the other way, or steps so you can't see them in the mirror. So much fun to be had.


----------



## dmaxphil

PaHunter said:


> And always listen to your significant other who is telling you, go the other way, or steps so you can't see them in the mirror. So much fun to be had.



LOL,  Gave up on that idea long ago. I handle it all solo now. That way I only get angry at myself.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

One thing I practice when I'm by myself is G.O.A.L. = _*Get Out And Look. *No matter how many times it takes, it's always cheaper in the long run!_


----------



## dmaxphil

Yep. Especially when backing in to a blind side spot.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> And always listen to your significant other who is telling you, go the other way, or steps so you can't see them in the mirror. So much fun to be had.


Ha ha. Sure fire way to get divorced. We actually tried 2 way radios. That turned into "My way" and "That way". Or "Left... NO! MY LEFT!"

Or worse yet, complete silence. Mean while I'm watching the mirrors realizing I'm no where close to straight and then I hear "STOP!" on the radio. "You're crooked. You need to go more '_over there'_." ... Sure.



SouthAlabama5er said:


> One thing I practice when I'm by myself is G.O.A.L. = _*Get Out And Look. *_


Can't preach this enough. If I can see where I'm going with a little walk around first, I can put almost any trailer anywhere. When you take your Class A driving test (CDL for noncommercial people with BIG trailers) in Illinois, before you back into a dock, you have to get out and look around or they fail you.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> One thing I practice when I'm by myself is G.O.A.L. = _*Get Out And Look. *No matter how many times it takes, it's always cheaper in the long run!_



Amen!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Teamubr said:


> Ha ha. Sure fire way to get divorced. We actually tried 2 way radios. That turned into "My way" and "That way". Or "Left... NO! MY LEFT!"
> 
> Or worse yet, complete silence. Mean while I'm watching the mirrors realizing I'm no where close to straight and then I hear "STOP!" on the radio. "You're crooked. You need to go more '_over there'_." ... Sure.



Two words to make life a little easier, "pull through".  A buddy of mine lives by them two words. That was his first question when we booked FW last year. "Which sites are pull through?"


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

dmaxphil said:


> 3.73. Well then, be thankful you don't have the 4.10



Ha, just feel my pain, my truck has a 4.88. It's slow like a 18 wheeler off the line towing the 5er, but once I get to rolling it will "carry the mail" as my papaw use to say.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Ha, just feel my pain, my truck has a 4.88. It's slow like a 18 wheeler off the line towing the 5er, but once I get to rolling it will "carry the mail" as my papaw use to say.


Do you have the 16.5 rims like the semi trailers? Most of the guys running the "big" wheels want the 4.88s to off set the taller tire. 4.88s on my truck would mean I topped out about 75 mph hitting the rev limiter. But the pull off the line would be great!

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

It has factory 19.5 rims with 225/70 G rated tires.


----------



## sirenia88

Pull through... yeah...  Only being at the fort 3 times.  My last site was one of the toughest sites I got to deal with camping wise.  If my truck was a long bed or the trailer was longer, I do not think I would have been about to get the combo in. The site was practically 90 degrees to the travel lane.   To make matters worse, there were a collection receptacles right at the turn point across the site and a drainage ditch to right of the site.  I got the trailer in there, in the dark and on auto piloted brain.  One of my summer trips, we camp in a huge field.  No worries of backing up.  Just pull in and around to a spot.  Pull out when you are done.


----------



## PaHunter

There are many diesels, this one is mine....
 

Hiding behind the truck is our 2015 Bullet Travel Trailer.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Oh yeah good looking rig there PaHunter, you shouldn't even know that camper is behind you! That's a good thing unless you have a heavy foot like me, then it's not so good!


----------



## PaHunter

I try to keep it light. Usually right about 72 is my maximum. If I want to go fast I have a Hayabusa for that.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Hayabusa!? I hear ya! I'm the same way! All my buddies with their 3/4 ton diesels always wanna race, I got a Corvette for that!


----------



## jbrostek

I have a race car for that.






And another at Watkins Glen just because,


----------



## peg110

PaHunter said:


> There are many diesels, this one is mine....
> View attachment 139539
> 
> Hiding behind the truck is our 2015 Bullet Travel Trailer.


Not just a nice rig, it looks like a nice setup for parking/maintenance too. I currently don't have a good location at my residence to store my TT. (Dirt driveway that's not even close to being level.) I'd like to build a "Pole Barn" (or similar) to keep it in. Ah... Dreams. Build a pole barn or another trip to WDW? Decisions... Decisions.


----------



## tiggerdad

Yeah, same decisions here.  This year however, I am committed to the pole barn.  Tired of watching my condo on the beach and cabin in the mountains sit out in the weather.


----------



## peg110

That's an interesting perspective. I may have to adopt that, although I am more a "Cabin in the mountain" guy then I am a "Condo on the Beach" one. We are planing our November 2016 Trip (Postponed from November of 2015, again postponed from April 2016. Hopefully not postponed again.) but I might be able to do some "Prep" for the Pole Barn/Garage in the meantime. (dig it out and get the foundation and pad poured.)


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> I have a race car for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another at Watkins Glen just because,



Locally here we have The Giants Despair run that happens around July. It is a blast for us non racers to watch and well  I bet a fun drive also.


----------



## jbrostek

Heard about that hillclimb.  I have not done one, but been to a few in PA towards Harrisburg.


----------



## dmaxphil

New tires today.


----------



## PaHunter

dmaxphil said:


> New tires today.




Only 4 ???


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> Only 4 ???


----------



## jbrostek

Hey, I pull my beast of a trailer with only 4 and she does well.  Though 6 is in the future.


----------



## dmaxphil

PaHunter said:


> Only 4 ???



Yep! With the added benefit of letting my wife drive to the store without fear major body damage.  Unfortunately, these 4 tires cost more than having 6 replaced on my old dually. 

Side note: Going with the 285/65R20 BFG's gave me 3860lbs per tire which is an upgrade over the stock 18's (3500lbs per tire) normally found on SRW 3500s. I swapped those stockers out at dealer with High Country 20's from a 2500HD and pansy tires rated around 3100lbs a piece.


----------



## jbrostek

I am currently on 275/65/20 Terragrapplers, load on them are 3748.  May get them again as these are nearly worn out after 40k miles.


----------



## dmaxphil

I had Trail Grapplers on my Tundra and they wore unusually fast.


----------



## jbrostek

Trailgrapplers are M/T tires, 40k is about max.  Terra are basically A/T tires, 50k average on them.  I still have good tread but I suspect after the winter and another 2k mile tow they will be nothing but slicks by then.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

The Wife gave me some nice LED headlight bulbs for my truck for Christmas, big improvement of the stock lights, it will be nice making that dark drive down I10 to the Fort in February better.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> The Wife gave me some nice LED headlight bulbs for my truck for Christmas,


Very nice. Do you mind sharing the details? I know some on the forums have retrofitted HID lamps, but they are pricey and a pain to install. (Remove the whole front grill and fascia). The headlights are one of the only things I don't like on the truck. On low, I can see about 30 ft. High beams go to about 33. 

And what is that abomination in the garage?  With a proper truck like that, the car should have a horse or a snake on the grill.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I had HID's in my F250, but a Alabama State Trooper didn't like them as much I as did. They were a 8,000k (blueish tint). I'll have to ask my wife where she bought the LED's from, I know their a 6,000k pure white tint. They took about 10 minutes to install, I pulled the 4 screws holding each headlight off, simple plug and play. I know she paid $190 just for the two headlight bulbs they have both high and low beam.
A friend of mine has some Rigid Industries LED fog light on his F250, they replaced the factory ones. They are super bright, that's my next investment.

Has far as "her" car in the garage, she had a Ford Explorer but wanted something "sporty". She said the Mustang looks like a catfish to her so I didn't push anything I let her pick what she wanted, it only fair I got the truck I wanted, so. Haha if I had to pick her a car it would of been a F250 or Excursion haha neither of which would fit in our garage!

Edit: she ordered the LED'S through www.ledheadlightspro.com


----------



## Teamubr

Thanks Randy,

That's odd about the HIDs on the F250. The HIDs on my wife's Nissan are bright white. The Xenons on my BMW and my old Mini are "holy surface of the sun" white/white and the brightest things I've ever seen. They were very focused though and they never seemed to bother anyone.

I'll take a look at the site. $190 isn't too bad if they are that much better than the OEMs.

j


----------



## jbrostek

I have H13 HID bulbs, but the ballast only seem to last about a year.  I been curious on the LED headlight bulbs, all the reviews I read was they did not put out as much light as halogens, but I was considering them for the fog lights.  I too am curious what brand you got for the headlights as I would be willing to look into them if they put out enough light.  Otherwise, I am on the verge of going back to the Silverstart ultras as I am done dealing with the HID kit and ballast issues.


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> The Wife gave me some nice LED headlight bulbs for my truck for Christmas, big improvement of the stock lights, it will be nice making that dark drive down I10 to the Fort in February better.



Dang!

Here I was reading along and then all of a sudden I'm blinded...

Luckily I was able to scroll down with the mouse and able to eventually recover my vision.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

jbrostek said:


> I too am curious what brand you got for the headlights as I would be willing to look into them if they put out enough light.



jbrostek, my wife ordered them online at www.ledheadlightspro.com I checked out the website and I seen where they have a lifetime warranty, I'm going to ordered the fog lights replacements after Christmas.

Tiggerdad, you'll see me coming down the road now and I can see where I'm going now!


----------



## jbrostek

SouthAlabama5er said:


> jbrostek, my wife ordered them online at www.ledheadlightspro.com I checked out the website and I seen where they have a lifetime warranty, I'm going to ordered the fog lights replacements after Christmas.
> 
> Tiggerdad, you'll see me coming down the road now and I can see where I'm going now!



I will have to check them out.  Look pretty good!


----------



## PaHunter

Can I use this to tow my camper to the Fort ?? If not can I get a set of these tires to fit my truck ??


----------



## tiggerdad

Pa, you should be able to tow your rig and everybody elses...at the same time.

I call shotgun!


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Pa, you should be able to tow your rig and everybody elses...at the same time.
> 
> I call shotgun!



I wish it was mine. Is a coworkers, he brings it to work when he doesn't bring the Hearst. I just find it awesome.


----------



## Teamubr

I think with those tires I'd be screaming WHAT!!! a lot.

But put that puppy in 4WD Low and it will go anyhere.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> I think with those tires I'd be screaming WHAT!!! a lot.
> 
> But put that puppy in 4WD Low and it will go anyhere.
> 
> j



Screaming all the time in it. Tire noise and you can hear it coming from 3 miles away. He said the tires were like a grand a piece. It has 2-55 gallon diesel tanks and  jerry can mounted on the drivers side just in case.


----------



## sirenia88

dmaxphil said:


> Yep! With the added benefit of letting my wife drive to the store without fear major body damage.  Unfortunately, these 4 tires cost more than having 6 replaced on my old dually.
> 
> Side note: Going with the 285/65R20 BFG's gave me 3860lbs per tire which is an upgrade over the stock 18's (3500lbs per tire) normally found on SRW 3500s. I swapped those stockers out at dealer with High Country 20's from a 2500HD and pansy tires rated around 3100lbs a piece.




I did the same thing.  I found a set of pull off Lariat 18 inch rims.  A friend of mine was trying to get me to buy a set of aftermarket rims for my F250 but I wanted something larger than the 17s on the truck that could handle a larger tire.  I felt the 17s only had about 3100ish load rating where the 18s bumped it up to 3600ish rating. At this point I was going to be over the rating of the rear axle if maxed out.  The tires I went with was 275/70/18 Cooper AT3s.  Once they are worn out,  I am looking at getting a set of Toyo Open Country 285/75s which will give a 35 inch look. Decisions, Decisions.   (Hey Al pay off the truck and the other bills first...  Stupid conscience.)  The truck looks better with 33s over 31.5s  but 35s would look even nicer.  I can dream right? LOL



SouthAlabama5er said:


> The Wife gave me some nice LED headlight bulbs for my truck for Christmas, big improvement of the stock lights, it will be nice making that dark drive down I10 to the Fort in February better.




Pretty!  I have a set of HIDs in my truck.  Both Head lights and fogs.  They are 5K output which gives a nice clean white light.  Never have an issue with the lights except in winter.  For what ever reason, they don't take too kindly to the cold.  I am thinking about going with LEDs in the spring.  Do you have any RF interference?  Mine ballasts do.  It is hit or miss with many kits.  I love mine in the truck.  At night, the stock halogen bulbs felt like I was using a candle to see through the night.  When it snows, the light just reflects off everything and it almost feels like a full moon type of night.  




jbrostek said:


> I have H13 HID bulbs, but the ballast only seem to last about a year.  I been curious on the LED headlight bulbs, all the reviews I read was they did not put out as much light as halogens, but I was considering them for the fog lights.  I too am curious what brand you got for the headlights as I would be willing to look into them if they put out enough light.  Otherwise, I am on the verge of going back to the Silverstart ultras as I am done dealing with the HID kit and ballast issues.



I have had my kit in for about 18 months now.  Outside of some really cold ballast issues (when it is 0°F as a daytime high) They took a few additional seconds to fire up.  LEDs are really nice to look at as an upgrade.  Light output is going to be a factor depending on the housings and wattage.  Many people have mixed results with using the factory housing.  There is a thought out there that says you should be swapping out the entire housing to make the light work more properly.  A majority of the housing are designed for halogen bulbs.  Another reason claim it is simply illegal to swap out your factory bulbs for whatever reason.  Personally, the way to go is with a properly adjusted factory housing providing with 5000 K bulbs.  The light is really close to a 4300 K spec for output.  Going past 6000K you just start loosing light output and you see a more blueish hue in color.  Low light output in the reviews could be a couple of things.  Bad set ups.  Wrong wattage of the bulbs.  So forth and so on.  If you are running a 8 or 10 K bulb you are not going to make enough light output but it will pretty in color. LOL


----------



## jbrostek

My kits are 5k kits.   I already had to replace a 9 month old fog ballast as it no longer can start the bulb.  One of my main ballasts are showing issues warm or cold so I expect it to go out soon too.    I may look into different headlights, but really all I want is some good lighting on the truck


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

This picture is just of the two aftermarket LED lights I mounted in the middle of my bumper, they made a big difference. 




When I get back home in Mid January I'll post some better pictures. I plan on ordering the LED fog light bulbs after Christmas. I can't help it, they all gotta match! I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who doesn't like stock headlights.


----------



## tiggerdad

Good grief!  Man got a barn full of campers...


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Good grief!  Man got a barn full of campers...


I thought he lived at a trailer storage facility. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Nice! And I think I see a shrimp boat in the background.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Teamubr said:


> I thought he lived at a trailer storage facility.



Ha! We all call my back yard the "Trailer Depot". I have six trailer in the yard, two utility trailers, a 14' & 18', my boat 21' Sea Pro (not in the picture on the other side of my camper) my 5er, my parents 5er, it's a 28' Laredo, and my dad's oyster boat. We live next to my parents so my dad and I went and in half and built the pole barn for the campers and my boat. It's a yard full!


----------



## 2goofycampers

On the subject of truck headlights. Has anyone found something to take off the discoloration?


----------



## Teamubr

2goofycampers said:


> On the subject of truck headlights. Has anyone found something to take off the discoloration?


Ebay... To buy new ones. 

Seriously though, Some of the polishing compounds at the auto stores will take the haze out, but I haven't found anything to remove the yellow.

j


----------



## peg110

I'd be interested in knowing how well the LED lights (about the 6000K) do in Rain or foggy conditions?


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

peg110 said:


> I'd be interested in knowing how well the LED lights (about the 6000K) do in Rain or foggy conditions?



I'll let you know how they do. They are 6000k.


----------



## tiggerdad

2goofycampers said:


> On the subject of truck headlights. Has anyone found something to take off the discoloration?


Denise,
If it's the hazing that you are talking about then I have used some of the products from Wal Mart for polishing the headlights and they worked well.

If it's a yellowing you're referring to then probable best option is to replace as the yellowing is usually from the breakdown of the plastic.


----------



## dmaxphil

Air bags and compressor finished up today. That was fun, not.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

dmaxphil said:


> Air bags and compressor finished up today. That was fun, not.



I had Firestone air bags on my F-250, they made a night and day difference. Truck rode better while towing and I wasn't blinding airline pilots with my headlights at night!


----------



## PaHunter

Santa brought the DW a toolbox for the truck bed. 

 

 

It has been installed for 3 days with her parking right next to it and she did not notice it. Now we can reclaim our backseat.


----------



## North of Mouse

Yeah, right!! For your DW, eh?????  

Yes, I well understand her not 'noticing' - sounds like me, just not on our radar!! Just like everything outside with the vehicles is DH's responsibility, especially the MH, the inside is all mine - unless something doesn't work, then it's "Honnnneeyy, this needs fixin'!!


----------



## PaHunter

North of Mouse said:


> Yeah, right!! For your DW, eh?????
> 
> Yes, I well understand her not 'noticing' - sounds like me, just not on our radar!! Just like everything outside with the vehicles is DH's responsibility, especially the MH, the inside is all mine - unless something doesn't work, then it's "Honnnneeyy, this needs fixin'!!



North of Mouse, yes for the DW. After all it is HER truck. I just get to drive it when a trailer is attached, ok and once in awhile beside that. And yes this way she can put all the tools, etc that she used to keep under the cap of her old truck.


----------



## North of Mouse

PaHunter said:


> North of Mouse, yes for the DW. After all it is HER truck. I just get to drive it when a trailer is attached, ok and once in awhile beside that. And yes this way she can put all the tools, etc that she used to keep under the cap of her old truck.



Oops - my sorry!  That's what I get for assuming it was 'your' truck!!


----------



## PaHunter

Well have the truck plugged in now that the weather is more like the planet Hoth. Guess winter is finally here. Not totally sure the truck needs to be plugged in but if it makes it easier to start I am all for it. It only gets run maybe once a week or every two weeks this time of year.


----------



## 4077

Nothing new here (plus it's on every post of mine), but here is my 2011 Tahoe and 2014 Flagstaff Microlite 25BHS. Not a "car" person who does all sorts of mods and tweaking, but did install after market transmission cooler for the towing...


----------



## jbrostek

PaHunter said:


> Well have the truck plugged in now that the weather is more like the planet Hoth. Guess winter is finally here. Not totally sure the truck needs to be plugged in but if it makes it easier to start I am all for it. It only gets run maybe once a week or every two weeks this time of year.



It would start without plugging in, but if you have ever seen how thick the oil is when its that cold you would plug it in anyway.  Plus the bonus for you is no long warm ups for the beastie.  I have not plugged the new truck in yet, it has the instant heat option and I had to find the plug.  I will start doing it going forward though.  Plan to post pictures of the new truck after I finally have her all set up.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Well have the truck plugged in now that the weather is more like the planet Hoth. Not totally sure the truck needs to be plugged in but if it makes it easier to start I am all for it.


The book on my 6.7 says "The block heater system is most effective when outdoor temperatures reach 0 degrees F (-18C)"

I usually plug mine in when it gets to 10 or so. It REALLY helps warm them up faster. If you follow the glow plug instructions, all of my diesels (since 2001) have always started in the -teens without the block heater. 

j


----------



## jbrostek

Oh I know, but on the 6.0 and a 20F morning there was a lot to be said with having some form of heat from start up.  The new truck has the rapid heat system and it works well so far, plus with remote start I can start her while I am still getting ready to head out the door.


----------



## tltay2005

This is our set up for camping....
 
then when it's too hot to camp (we live in Central Fl) this is what we tow.


----------



## PaHunter

Well stopped at a RV show today, just looking around. Saw one we really liked, The Heartland Bighorn 3750. It is a new floor plan for this year. Front living room, and then kitchen, bath and rear bedroom. 2nd door accesses the bathroom. Wish it was more in our price range, but for now something to dream about.


----------



## 2goofycampers

PaHunter said:


> Well stopped at a RV show today, just looking around. Saw one we really liked, The Heartland Bighorn 3750. It is a new floor plan for this year. Front living room, and then kitchen, bath and rear bedroom. 2nd door accesses the bathroom. Wish it was more in our price range, but for now something to dream about.


We looked at one of those down here, NICE! They wanted $77,000 and change.


----------



## PaHunter

2goofycampers said:


> We looked at one of those down here, NICE! They wanted $77,000 and change.



Actually for the RV show they had a deal on and it was around 20 percent below that. But for now still out of our price range.


----------



## tiggerdad

Man, you guys driving the Dodges...any of you have this on your truck?  From his description you guys must have one impressive ride.


----------



## tiggerdad

Found the original video for that Chrystler item.

I mean...this is intense


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Man!! I don't want all he's saying but I want one!


----------



## peg110

When I win the Powerball, I am going to buy one of those! Will it work on a Ford F-250?


----------



## Teamubr

Well,

I'm blaming all of you on here, but I'm bringing home a new 5er on Wednesday. Made the 1 1/2 hour drive up to Decatur Illinois on Saturday and found what I wanted. Threw a silly offer at them expecting it to be turned down and they said, "When do you want to pick it up?"

So in 2 days I'll be the proud owner of a Coachmen Chaparral 390QSMB. It's the mid bunk layout I've been looking at since last years RV show. This one checked every box except large fresh water tank. It had the best layout, kitchen design and storage of any of the other dozen trailers I'd been considering.

Here's the layout. It ain't small. 42 ft and 12,000 lbs dry.





If you're really interested, *here's* a YouTube video of what it looks like. This isn't ours, but it's pretty close.

j


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> Well,
> 
> I'm blaming all of you on here, but I'm bringing home a new 5er on Wednesday.



Hey, whoa!  Don't lump me in with those other folks - I'm the pop-up guy, remember?  Small, light, inexpensive, versatile, camping....

Let's see:

- Four slideouts
- 42 feet long
- 12,000 pounds

Sounds like you need to also buy a DVC membership on a Premium site.  You'll love that beast so much you'll start planning 6-week trips to the Fort (this time of year right after New Years till Valentine's Day).  And it will get longer from there...

Congrats on the purchase.  I expect it to be blocking the sun WAY OVER on my site at Gulf State Park from your spot the next street over later this summer.  Glad you are happy with it.

Bama Ed


----------



## dmaxphil

bama_ed said:


> Hey, whoa!  Don't lump me in with those other folks - I'm the pop-up guy, remember?  Small, light, inexpensive, versatile, camping....
> 
> Let's see:
> 
> - Four slideouts
> - 42 feet long
> - 12,000 pounds
> 
> Sounds like you need to also buy a DVC membership on a Premium site.  You'll love that beast so much you'll start planning 6-week trips to the Fort (this time of year right after New Years till Valentine's Day).  And it will get longer from there...
> 
> Congrats on the purchase.  I expect it to be blocking the sun WAY OVER on my site at Gulf State Park from your spot the next street over later this summer.  Glad you are happy with it.
> 
> Bama Ed



Well deserving of a LOL!


----------



## dmaxphil

Congrats! That's a fine looking rig. Impressive amount of cargo storage. Don't believe I've seen a mid bunk with that counter configuration. Like!  Is that a 12cuft fridge, 2 - 8 cuft fridges or an 18 cuft?


----------



## dmaxphil

Anyone here rooting for Clemson?


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> Hey, whoa!  Don't lump me in with those other folks


I consider you the ring leader. Well, you with the new A-liner, Randy with that monster Sandpiper and Chris with the trailer storage lot. 



bama_ed said:


> You'll love that beast so much you'll start planning 6-week trips to the Fort (this time of year right after New Years till Valentine's Day).  And it will get longer from there...


 Already making plans for 2017 when DS graduates HS. I was considering a DCL cruise, but now I'm thinking of a nice Fall trip when school doesn't matter anymore.



bama_ed said:


> I expect it to be blocking the sun WAY OVER on my site at Gulf State Park from your spot the next street over later this summer.


 This GSP trip was the biggest motivator. I was a little worried taking my 13 year old trailer with mismatched 4-5 year old tires that far. Somehow I rationalized a new trailer was better than replacing 4 tires. And don't worry about the sun. This is a mid-profile to cut down on wind resistance and shadow casting.



dmaxphil said:


> Don't believe I've seen a mid bunk with that counter configuration. Like!  Is that a 12cuft fridge,


The kitchen layout was what finally sold us. 2 pantries, much more cabinet space and a nice solid surface counter compared to everything else we looked at. The fridge in the video is a residential electric/inverter 18 cuft. I opted for the smaller gas/electric 12 cuft. I have an 8cuft in my old 5er and we could get a weeks worth of stuff in it. A 12 cuft should be fine. And the big residential cut into pantry space.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Well,
> 
> I'm blaming all of you on here, but I'm bringing home a new 5er on Wednesday. Made the 1 1/2 hour drive up to Decatur Illinois on Saturday and found what I wanted. Threw a silly offer at them expecting it to be turned down and they said, "When do you want to pick it up?"
> 
> So in 2 days I'll be the proud owner of a Coachmen Chaparrel 390QSMB. It's the mid bunk layout I've been looking at since last years RV show. This one checked every box except large fresh water tank. It had the best layout, kitchen design and storage of any of the other dozen trailers I'd been considering.
> 
> Here's the layout. It ain't small. 42 ft and 12,000 lbs dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're really interested, *here's* a YouTube video of what it looks like. This isn't ours, but it's pretty close.
> 
> j



We looked at one this weekend at the RV show and the wife liked it. She figures we could use the bunks as the nephews get older.  Best of luck with it and Congratulations.


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> Sounds like you need to also buy a DVC membership on a Premium site.


Ed,

One of the things I really considered was no longer being able to fit on a Preferred site. I really do love the 100 loop and being so close to the marina and the Settlement. Now I can hope for a 400 or 700 loop assignment.

j


----------



## JETS70

Congrats on the new rig!! That is is one good looking camper. For some reason my silly offers never end up like that.


----------



## peg110

That looks like something I'd like to have. I like the space of a Fifth wheel, but I don't want to have to convert a dinette or couch into sleeping space. With me, DW and 2 kids (well sort of, DD10, DD18, and DD18's BF21), I really wanted a bunk house. Since we now have the DD18's BF21 usually in tow, I am okay converting a couch for him though (not ready to let DD18 and BF21 sleep together yet). This model has convenient sleep space for Us and kids PLUS plenty of living space to boot. The kitchen looks awesome too. I can drool a little over it since I am the one that does the cooking.

I would have thought the fresh water tank would have been a bit bigger too. 

I also agree that Ed can be the ring leader of these types of things. Sure, he is small pop-up light and efficient, but, elegant at the same time and always a positive word, but that's what we love about him, right? We use him to rationalize our own desires. That's okay though, I don't think it's a bad thing.

Enjoy the new 5er, and Ed, keep up the great work.


----------



## bama_ed

peg110 said:


> I also agree that Ed can be the ring leader of these types of things. Sure, he is small pop-up light and efficient, but, elegant at the same time and always a positive word, but that's what we love about him, right? We use him to rationalize our own desires. That's okay though, I don't think it's a bad thing.
> 
> Enjoy the new 5er, and Ed, keep up the great work.



I like the way teamubr put the onus on me when he rationalized the cost of a new trailer versus the cost of four new tires.  

Keep it up - that's what I'm here for.  El Oh El.

Now if any of you other guys want a new trailer, PM me in advance and we'll work this out.  

Bama Ed

PS - I am also good for justifying new tow vehicles (for other folks, though, not me).  Just sayin'.


----------



## peg110

bama_ed said:


> Now if any of you other guys want a new trailer, PM me in advance and we'll work this out.


Hmm.... Is this an offer to take over the payments?  
I'll be conservative in my choice.... Honest I will!


----------



## jbrostek

Congrats on the new trailer!   Since you already had a bit toy hauler a 42' bunkhouse wont be much of a change, and by loosing an axle you get better turning.  Mine is at 40' yet I did not need a premium site, but I could not just take any old site in the 300 loop.

Pictures of the new tow vehicle will happen once I have some daylight.  All her parts and pieces are installed even if there is some behind the scenes wiring to do.


----------



## tiggerdad

I'll have to go to bat for Ed on this one.  He actually has tried to help me convince my wife to downsize when it is just the two of us camping one day.  My current oversized trailer situation may be getting worse and I may be following in Teamubr's footsteps.

My current Jayco 32BHDS was bought new in 2012 and was everything we were looking for at the time.  Lots of space for storage, kids had their own slide and bunkhouse in the back, outdoor kitchen.  However, it has been a problem with moisture and leaks.  The outdoor kitchen door was a constant leak everytime it rained.  It was letting water get inside the camper through the door latches.  Under warranty, the door was replaced and the kitchen counter replaced twice due to warpage from moisture.  New door continued to leak.  After the warranty went out I finally had to fix the thing myself by sealing off the latch points with sheet metal and caulk, after I replaced the outdoor kitchen counter top again (yes three times), this one I did myself.  Even then, it still mildewed.  Come to find out that was from condensation due to the camper being cold at night and the warming sun during the day caused condensation.  I have to maintain a constant running dehumidifier in the outdoor kitchen to control this.

Three weeks ago the Wineguard antenna began leaking and had to be recaulked.  During the process I noticed that the dome over the shower had warped, causing the base to pull loose from the roof, another leak.  Had to replace it as well.  This week I discovered mildew in my front storage compartment, a complete search revealed a leak in the front of the camper, which has apparently been ongoing for quite some time as the wood in the front compartment is soft.  I have recaulked it this week, but my temper has grown short.

My wife has seized the opportunity and brought up the fact that she would like a bigger shower as the small one we currently have now is too tight for bathing the kids and for us  (She only uses the bath houses at Disney, nowhere else).  Add on top of that SouthAlabama5er (Roll Tide), and his wife allowed her to tour their rig and now she is pushing for a 5er.  With all the leaks I have been dealing with, I am becoming more convinced.  We have looked online and a Jayco 325BHQS has caught our attention.  The local dealer just sold the one he had on the lot and won't have another one for about a month or so, but when he does he is going to call us so we can take a walkthrough and see what we think.

Time will tell, we may also be bringing a new rig to GSP this summer.  Nothing for sure yet.


----------



## jbrostek

Best of luck on your searching/decisions.  Never easy to jump into a new or bigger payment.  For my in the RV world my payment went down going from a diesel pusher to the 5er.  The truck goes up, but given repair expenses on the old one this should take good care of me for some time.

The 5th wheel gives such an open feeling with the higher ceilings and good mix of use and storage.  Plus they really do tow well.  My trailer is officially 39'11" pin to rear bumper, 12640 dry with a pin of 2335.  I want to say she is rolling probably around 14500-14750, pin I estimate is just shy of 3k.  I really want to roll some cat scales with the new setup and get real weights loaded for Florida.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

bama_ed said:


> I like the way teamubr put the onus on me when he rationalized the cost of a new trailer versus the cost of four new tires.



Just wait til my Oil Change light comes on next... hahaha 

Teamubr, congratulations on the 5er! Look forward to seeing it at GSP, 

And Tiggerdad, yall might as well start cleaning out your Jayco and get ready to trade it in, remember to tell Ms. Stacey, it's a Sandpiper 376BHOK she's looking for, and you can go ahead and upgrade to a F-350, it's a win win for both of yall!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

jbrostek, my 5er is close to 13k dry, I rolled across the Cat scale and with both fuel tanks full on my F-450, freshwater tank full, the 3 of us and loaded with everything I grossed out north of 26,000 lbs.


----------



## Teamubr

Tiggerdad,

You must have gotten the bad one. That's a lot of "moisture" issues for a relatively new trailer. I always thought Jayco made a good product, but were over priced (at least at our local dealers). Water issues are a chronic problem with trailers. When I was talking to people about a trade on my 5er, that was one of their first questions. "Any water damage"?


SouthAlabama5er said:


> Just wait til my Oil Change light comes on next... hahaha


Oil changes are easy. I hate buying tires. But you know, 13 qts of synthetic Rotella does almost equal what I paid for my Mini Cooper. 




SouthAlabama5er said:


> Teamubr, congratulations on the 5er! Look forward to seeing it at GSP,
> 
> And Tiggerdad, yall might as well start cleaning out your Jayco and get ready to trade it in, remember to tell Ms. Stacey, it's a Sandpiper 376BHOK she's looking for, and you can go ahead and upgrade to a F-350, it's a win win for both of yall!


Thanks Randy and everyone on the congrats,
I'm looking forward to meeting everyone at GSP, new trailer or not. And I think if we gang up on Ms Tiggerdad (mom?), a new 5er AND dually might be in their future.  I think Ed can be pretty persuasive, but size eventually matters... Or so I'm told.



SouthAlabama5er said:


> I rolled across the Cat scale and with both fuel tanks full on my F-450, freshwater tank full, the 3 of us and loaded with everything I grossed out north of 26,000 lbs.


If I wasn't towing home 100 miles from the dealer and getting in close to midnight, I'd probably stop at the truck stop and take it across the scales before I put anything in it. That can wait until day light and warmer weather.

j


----------



## Teamubr

Brought the bunk house home for the last time to clean it out. They said I could keep the generator, so I pulled it out to use at the house. 

The poor baby must know it's leaving for good and wanted me to spend a little more time working on her. When I pulled into my drive way, I noticed a broken shackle on the rear axle. Got to spend an extra hour, in the dark, in 20 degrees replacing it. I figured I should. It's 110 miles to the dealer and having an axle leave at 70 mph might impact the trade in value a little.

Leaving work early tomorrow to get to the dealer before it gets dark so I can do a proper PDI. I told them I may take a while and they said they would stay as late as I would.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> This GSP trip was the biggest motivator. I was a little worried taking my 13 year old trailer with mismatched 4-5 year old tires that far. Somehow I rationalized a new trailer was better than replacing 4 tires. And don't worry about the sun. This is a mid-profile to cut down on wind resistance and shadow casting.
> 
> 
> j


I suppose it's fair to say that so far you are spending more $$ than anyone else for the GSP trip!?  Good luck and hope delivery goes smoothly.  I know it's not your first rodeo, but make sure they give you a deep cycle and not a cranking battery. And that they have water hooked up and test all the faucets, toilet for leaks, etc. Attach a water hose to sewer flush to insure they didn't install valve backwards. Check tire date codes. 

If it has a leveling system, read up ahead of time on how to operate and recalibrate if necessary. If it has any Shwintek slides be sure to run them in and out a few times to make sure they are aligned properly - they have a tendency to get out of sync.


----------



## jbrostek

SouthAlabama5er said:


> jbrostek, my 5er is close to 13k dry, I rolled across the Cat scale and with both fuel tanks full on my F-450, freshwater tank full, the 3 of us and loaded with everything I grossed out north of 26,000 lbs.



Randy, I expect that to easily be the case for me as well.  But I would be curious what the axle weights turn out to be as well with her fully packed for the 2 week trip and both the truck tank and aux tank full.  I generally run with less then 1/3rd a tank of water for use on the road and the FL trip being in the winter I usually leave the area winterized and dewinterize at the first overnight stop.


----------



## peg110

I de-winterize before we leave (to Florida) from Pennsylvania.  (fill water tank within hours of departure) We usually get down to where it's warm enough to not cause an issue. Even if we don't it takes a LONG time to freeze the large tank of water particularly when it's sloshing around while driving. Also my DW relies on the TT's Bathroom for the pit stops more than the Gas Station's facilities as many of them are just not up to snuff.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> I suppose it's fair to say that so far you are spending more $$ than anyone else for the GSP trip!?


I don't know Phil. There are several others that are making noise about uping me. I may be coming the farthest, but Tiggerdad has a really damp, leaky trailer.

And according to the Coachmen site, all my slides are rack and pinion. The "Lite" models use the Schwintech for the kitchen slides. This trailer doesn't qualify as "lite".

This is my 4th (6th if you count the race team stuff) trailer. I'll check the battery. If it isn't a deep cycle, I'll pull the one out of my bunk house. I bought it last spring. Didn't think of the tire dates. We do that on race tires, but didn't even consider it on the trailer. I figured I'd be putting Maxxis tires on it soon enough anyway.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Yeah definitely check the tires, after I'll the crap I with through with my 5er, I know I sound like a broken record but, it's sad to know you pay so much for a camper and they put the cheapest junk they can't find on them for tires. I've seen some of the heavier coaches (17k and up) with Goodyear G614's or something similar. When ever I trade up, that will be the make it or break it part of the deal. 




(Note the brand, MasterTrack) junk!!
I had 4 tires to this to me, luckily I cought them before they went. The dealer made the first one good, replaced it with the same brand tire, it was within the first 6 months of purchase, but the other 3 was outside warranty. Forrest River didn't do nothing either. I ended up replacing them with Goodyear G614's over kill for my camper but better piece of mind at 80mph. I'm sorry this is just a sore subject with me, and I don't wanna see anyone go through it.


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> My wife has seized the opportunity and brought up the fact that she would like a bigger shower as the small one we currently have now is too tight for bathing the kids and for us  (She only uses the bath houses at Disney, nowhere else).  Add on top of that SouthAlabama5er (Roll Tide), and his wife allowed her to tour their rig and now she is pushing for a 5er.  With all the leaks I have been dealing with, I am becoming more convinced.  We have looked online and a Jayco 325BHQS has caught our attention.  The local dealer just sold the one he had on the lot and won't have another one for about a month or so, but when he does he is going to call us so we can take a walkthrough and see what we think.
> 
> Time will tell, we may also be bringing a new rig to GSP this summer.  Nothing for sure yet.



tiggerdad, I know you work in the medical field but...

I know a guy....

Who knows a guy...

Who knows a guy...

Who will pay cash on the barrel for one of your kidneys.  A small incision, a brief tug, some silk thread, and you're good as new.  (have you ever stitched up yourself?)  You can use that as a down payment along with your trade-in value of the old camper on a huge honking new 5er.

But I'm not gonna make fun of you too bad - I noticed that Jayco you want has an outdoor kitchen again!

Bama Ed


----------



## bjschil

This is our haul as we leave today from a wonderful three week vacation.  Back to the frozen tundra fo tundra for us. We will return next year.  Our trip home will be slow and wise weather watching.


----------



## dmaxphil

Nice Sanibel!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Yeah, good looking rig, safe travels!


----------



## bjschil

Thank you dmaxphil. It  is a 2016 3701??   It has the back kitchen/pantry, living room with theater seating, sofa, dining table, fireplace, tv, and the open staircase that leads to the kind bed/bath.  We had numerous issues with our last Sanibel, but Forest River stood by all the issues, at no expense, so we decided to give it one more try!  I can say that I absolutely love, LOVE the walk in pantry, corner stove and oven, and the counter bar with stools facing the kitchen sink for those grandkids that sometimes tag along!  This by far, is one that works for us, unless mama gets her way, and we sell the farm and buy a motorhome!  Or, if I win the lottery tonight!!!


----------



## PaHunter

bjschil said:


> Thank you dmaxphil. It  is a 2016 3701??   It has the back kitchen/pantry, living room with theater seating, sofa, dining table, fireplace, tv, and the open staircase that leads to the kind bed/bath.  We had numerous issues with our last Sanibel, but Forest River stood by all the issues, at no expense, so we decided to give it one more try!  I can say that I absolutely love, LOVE the walk in pantry, corner stove and oven, and the counter bar with stools facing the kitchen sink for those grandkids that sometimes tag along!  This by far, is one that works for us, unless mama gets her way, and we sell the farm and buy a motorhome!  Or, if I win the lottery tonight!!!



I like the layout of the trailer, but can you access the bathroom with the upper slide pulled in while traveling ??


----------



## Flametamr

Congrats on the new camper Teamubr. Glad everyone's upgrading before our big bash at the Gulf. We love our new 5th wheel. The room is so nice.


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> tiggerdad, I know you work in the medical field but...
> 
> I know a guy....
> 
> Who knows a guy...
> 
> Who knows a guy...
> 
> Who will pay cash on the barrel for one of your kidneys.  A small incision, a brief tug, some silk thread, and you're good as new.  (have you ever stitched up yourself?)  You can use that as a down payment along with your trade-in value of the old camper on a huge honking new 5er.
> 
> But I'm not gonna make fun of you too bad - I noticed that Jayco you want has an outdoor kitchen again!
> 
> Bama Ed



I know that guy, but his price is just too low.  I'm waiting to see if he'll raise his offer.

I'm not going to anything that doesn't have the outdoor kitchen.  It is just too convient and keeps my camper from smelling like what we cooked 24 hours ago.  I have already verified that the door manufacture of that newer Jayco is a different one from my current trailer.

I am not one bit happy about what I have been dealing with on this unit.  I like the layout, I like the weight, and the options. If I can get a handle on the moisture I'll stick with it.  I have already solved the outdoor kitchen moisture problems finally, but I have to see just how much damage this front leak has caused.   The local salesman has been working with me on the repairs and parts and has even helped with discussing my problems with Jayco.  I didn't buy from him due to a bad experience with one of his salesmen and since then he has been trying to earn me back.  He has already assured me that he will wave any reductions on trade in due to water damage and he'll just eat the repair costs because he has seen first hand what I have put up with.  I will be purchasing a metal building this year to house it, or the next one if I do decide to trade.  That much is fact.

We are not set on trading just yet, so at this point, expect to see the 32BHDS at GSP this summer.

Randy's Sandpiper is nice, but a heavy girl.  Enough so that I would have to move up to a duel wheel to feel more comfortable, and that is not happening.  The other model of Jayco we are looking at keeps all the options that my current trailer has, plus the bigger restroom and master bedroom which is what the BOSS is looking for.  Plus, it sits around 10,500# dry which makes me feel comfortable sticking with F-250 but I would for sure install some airbag suspension to make things smoother.

For now we wait and see.

P.S.
I have not had a chance to suture myself.  I have sutured family members though here at the house.  I make it a point to maintain a sterile disposable suture kit in my first aid kit along with an array of sutures and lidocaine.


----------



## Teamubr

Flametamr said:


> Congrats on the new camper Teamubr.


Thanks! Flametamr. I'll be happy to show this off when we all get together.

@bjschil, Good looking Sandpiper. That's what I saw at the show last year that got me excited about these mid-bunks, but this Chapparal checked nearly all the boxes.

Tiggerdad- Don't feel bad hanging in there with the current rig. Once you get it right, you probably will never have another problem. It's also nice having a local dealer that is working with you. That makes a huge difference.

Ok, the new rig is home. Towed the 100+ miles in a cross and head wind without any drama. I checked the tires. Standard Forest River "tyre" from who knows where. Constancy LY188. A quick Google search only showed 1 big negative with a blowout, aside from no one knowing what they are. Build date codes showed July 2015. Kind of surprised they were that new. I'll probably start shopping for some Maxxis tires after the camping season.

So here's the before and after.

Old 2004 Cruiser 28BH this afternoon






And a few hours later with the 2016 Chaparral 390QSMB.






Stopped in Springfield on the way home to grap something to eat. I knew they had a big parking lot.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> Thanks! Flametamr. I'll be happy to show this off when we all get together.
> 
> @bjschil, Good looking Sandpiper. That's what I saw at the show last year that got me excited about these mid-bunks, but this Chapparal checked nearly all the boxes.
> 
> Tiggerdad- Don't feel bad hanging in there with the current rig. Once you get it right, you probably will never have another problem. It's also nice having a local dealer that is working with you. That makes a huge difference.
> 
> Ok, the new rig is home. Towed the 100+ miles in a cross and head wind without any drama. I checked the tires. Standard Forest River "tyre" from who knows where. Constancy LY188. A quick Google search only showed 1 big negative with a blowout, aside from no one knowing what they are. Build date codes showed July 2015. Kind of surprised they were that new. I'll probably start shopping for some Maxxis tires after the camping season.
> 
> So here's the before and after.
> 
> Old 2004 Cruiser 28BH this afternoon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a few hours later with the 2016 Chaparral 390QSMB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stopped in Springfield on the way home to grap something to eat. I knew they had a big parking lot.
> 
> j



Nice upgrade. Let me know how you like those JT Strongarms. Are they mounted on the back stabilizers as well?


----------



## dmaxphil

I didn't buy a trailer or anything today, but I did get a fresh coat of wax. It's something.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Nice upgrade. Let me know how you like those JT Strongarms. Are they mounted on the back stabilizers as well?


We had the strong arms on the race team toy hauler. They make a huge difference. The new trailer has power rear legs, but no bracing like the front.



dmaxphil said:


> I didn't buy a trailer or anything today, but I did get a fresh coat of wax. It's something.


Ooo. It's shiney. 

Will you come do mine. It looks to be about the same size, so you already have plenty of practice. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> We had the strong arms on the race team toy hauler. They make a huge difference. The new trailer has power rear legs, but no bracing like the front.
> 
> 
> Ooo. It's shiney.
> 
> Will you come do mine. It looks to be about the same size, so you already have plenty of practice.
> 
> j



JT Stongarms are a future upgrade for me. 

I would take you up on that but I have a sore shoulder now.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

The JT Strongarm's makes a big difference, best upgrade I've made. After I installed them I don't see a need to bring the tripod with us anymore.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> JT Stongarms are a future upgrade for me.


I would have thought with the 6 point leveling legs that it would be pretty stable. I passed on the auto leveling. I looked into adding them later and they were the same price as getting them from the factory. I can always add it later if I want. My DW said she would rather spend the same money on a generator. 

j


----------



## bjschil

PaHunter said:


> I like the layout of the trailer, but can you access the bathroom with the upper slide pulled in while traveling ??



PaHunter, the answer is yes, after pushing the slide out button for five seconds, it is out.  It was a negative at first, but we get/got used to it real fast.  Love the closet across from bathroom for extra storage, add'l towels.  I hate using dirty bathrooms at fuel stops, so we began putting out the slide, and it is now just a normal thing.  If we stop at a wayside, we make sure we safe so no big rig hits it.


----------



## jbrostek

bjschil said:


> PaHunter, the answer is yes, after pushing the slide out button for five seconds, it is out.  It was a negative at first, but we get/got used to it real fast.  Love the closet across from bathroom for extra storage, add'l towels.  I hate using dirty bathrooms at fuel stops, so we began putting out the slide, and it is now just a normal thing.  If we stop at a wayside, we make sure we safe so no big rig hits it.



My 2014 3600 is the same way.  That storage is awesome and really is not an issue to roll the slide out for bathroom access since its independent of the main slides.  So far I am still in love with my 3600, it was the old bathroom setup which I like a lot better then the wall in the bedroom.  I hope FR and the new Sanibel runs well for you.  I can't wait we are officially at the 30 day mark to departure!


----------



## peg110

bjschil said:


> PaHunter, the answer is yes, after pushing the slide out button for five seconds, it is out.  It was a negative at first, but we get/got used to it real fast.  Love the closet across from bathroom for extra storage, add'l towels.  I hate using dirty bathrooms at fuel stops, so we began putting out the slide, and it is now just a normal thing.  If we stop at a wayside, we make sure we safe so no big rig hits it.


SO you have to put the slide out to access the bathroom? Even though it's independent of the other slides, I can see that as being an issue for us. There have been (far to many) times when it was an "Emergency" potty break on the side of the road, since it appears the slide is on the Drivers side, that means you have to extend the slide toward moving traffic. 

I do like the layout though. I'd like to upgrade to a 5er, but it's not in the budget at the moment. Maybe in 2018 when the DW's car is finally paid off.


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> I would have thought with the 6 point leveling legs that it would be pretty stable. I passed on the auto leveling. I looked into adding them later and they were the same price as getting them from the factory. I can always add it later if I want. My DW said she would rather spend the same money on a generator.
> 
> j



It's pretty darn stable compared to other rigs I've been in without, but there is still movement on each end - only noticeable when seated in the rear or laying in the bed and the girls are bouncing around on the other end of trailer.

Is your unit gen prepped or are you thinking standalone? We have the prep package with inside controls and the metal box in the front compartment, but I'd hate to give up the storage.  We've never been in a position to need one, yet.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Is your unit gen prepped or are you thinking standalone?


My trailer didn't officially come with the "Gen Prep" package, but the front basement is closed in and sealed and the floor has been notched with cut outs to drop one in. The battery is also mounted in the front basement, making that easy. Running the wiring up for the remote panel isn't too big of a deal. My old 5er didn't have anything setup. I had to make a bulkhead and seal it for the front basement and run all the wiring. 

I noticed during the PDI that this trailer also has the slide awning rails already installed on the sides above the slides. I guess it is easier to install them at the factory on everything than try to have a dealer do it afterwards. Mine didn't come with slide awnings, but I've considered adding them to keep the debris and sun off the slide roofs.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> My trailer didn't officially come with the "Gen Prep" package, but the front basement is closed in and sealed and the floor has been notched with cut outs to drop one in. The battery is also mounted in the front basement, making that easy. Running the wiring up for the remote panel isn't too big of a deal. My old 5er didn't have anything setup. I had to make a bulkhead and seal it for the front basement and run all the wiring.
> 
> I noticed during the PDI that this trailer also has the slide awning rails already installed on the sides above the slides. I guess it is easier to install them at the factory on everything than try to have a dealer do it afterwards. Mine didn't come with slide awnings, but I've considered adding them to keep the debris and sun off the slide roofs.
> 
> j


We like them for those reasons. Just keep in mind it's something else to replace every 2-3 years.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Just keep in mind it's something else to replace every 2-3 years.




Slide awnings only last 2-3 years? I got 11 out of the main awning on my old Cruiser. At $200-300 X 4, that isn't cost effective.

j


----------



## peg110

I would think they would last longer than 2 - 3 years. I guess a lot of depends on your usage and locations. (i.e. in more sun or in more shade, rain, etc...)

We only have the main awning on our 27' TT, and it now seems to be going. We have never replaced it since we bought the TT used 6 years ago. It's going mostly because somehow we ended up with about 2 gallons of water between the layers. That was freaky because we didn't even really know it until I started to close it back up at a campsite this past year.


----------



## jbrostek

My 2001 Monaco had the original awning and slide awnings.  Though I did have to buy a new tensioner spring for the larger slide 2 years into owning it.

As for the slide to get to the bathroom, it would have to be one heck of an emergency before I would stop on the side of an interstate where that would be my largest concern.  But I also do not have really young kids that would wait till near bursting to tell me they need a stop.


----------



## peg110

jbrostek said:


> But I also do not have really young kids that would wait till near bursting to tell me they need a stop.



DW and DD18 both had their Gall Bladders out. They tell me it "Hits" them and it's an urgent need. No advanced notice (kind of like the little one that waits until "Bursting" to let you know. 

Fortunately for us it's only been a handful of times we have had to stop on the highway (on the side) but 1 time is TOO many for my liking.


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> Slide awnings only last 2-3 years? I got 11 out of the main awning on my old Cruiser. At $200-300 X 4, that isn't cost effective.
> 
> j





peg110 said:


> I would think they would last longer than 2 - 3 years. I guess a lot of depends on your usage and locations. (i.e. in more sun or in more shade, rain, etc...)
> 
> We only have the main awning on our 27' TT, and it now seems to be going. We have never replaced it since we bought the TT used 6 years ago. It's going mostly because somehow we ended up with about 2 gallons of water between the layers. That was freaky because we didn't even really know it until I started to close it back up at a campsite this past year.



Yes. And I may have exaggerated a bit on 2-3 years, but a lot depends on use. Keep in mind they are out all the time when setup so day and night they are exposed. I have a unit built in 2011 and for the most part they are still ok - not quite nearly as soft as new and the bed slide has stretched a bit in one area (it flaps in the wind now) so it needs replacing. Replacement awning fabric for a bed slide is costing me $120. Installing is easy.


----------



## peg110

dmaxphil said:


> d I may have exaggerated a bit on 2-3 years


No worries (at least from me). I haven't had to replace one yet. It doesn't look too difficult though. I guess if you have a good ladder it's much easier.  I don't have an awning for our slide although I kind of wish we did. At this point though, I am not going to try and get one for it. I am hoping to upgrade to a 5er in the next couple of years (if I can get the Truck or Car paid of I might be able to swing it.)


----------



## tiggerdad

peg110 said:


> No worries (at least from me). I haven't had to replace one yet. It doesn't look too difficult though. I guess if you have a good ladder it's much easier.  I don't have an awning for our slide although I kind of wish we did. At this point though, I am not going to try and get one for it. I am hoping to upgrade to a 5er in the next couple of years (if I can get the Truck or Car paid of I might be able to swing it.)



Sounds like someone I know...


----------



## dmaxphil

peg110 said:


> No worries (at least from me). I haven't had to replace one yet. It doesn't look too difficult though. I guess if you have a good ladder it's much easier.  I don't have an awning for our slide although I kind of wish we did. At this point though, I am not going to try and get one for it. I am hoping to upgrade to a 5er in the next couple of years (if I can get the Truck or Car paid of I might be able to swing it.)



Good ladders are essential. We have a Little Giant that folds down small enough to fit in the storage compartment.  Another thing about slide toppers - they make cleaning the tops of slides very difficult. You have to have a ladder to check the gap and make sure nothing and blown in before bringing slides in. Without the toppers you just walk the roof.


----------



## dmaxphil

Do any of you fifth wheel guys bring a golf cart? I'm considering a swivel wheel type setup. All the places around us allow carts so I think I'd get my moneys worth. Has anyone done this?


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Do any of you fifth wheel guys bring a golf cart?


 I haven't considered it. There are too many states around me that don't allow triple towing. This new 5er is already long. For some reason a nice big bike rack is standard on all Chaparrals except for the 2 longest. I suspect it is a length issue. I didn't ask why. It would have been nice to have, but I can always add one.

I didn't think about a swivel wheel connections. I don't know if those count as a 2nd towed trailer or not. My only concern would be  how much weight the rear bumper on the trailer could manage. My Cruiser specifically said nothing over 50 lbs. I haven't found anything on the new one yet, but I haven't opened the manuals yet either.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> I haven't considered it. There are too many states around me that don't allow triple towing. This new 5er is already long. For some reason a nice big bike rack is standard on all Chaparrals except for the 2 longest. I suspect it is a length issue. I didn't ask why. It would have been nice to have, but I can always add one.
> 
> I didn't think about a swivel wheel connections. I don't know if those count as a 2nd towed trailer or not. My only concern would be  how much weight the rear bumper on the trailer could manage. My Cruiser specifically said nothing over 50 lbs. I haven't found anything on the new one yet, but I haven't opened the manuals yet either.
> 
> j


You definitely couldn't attach to the bumper as they are made of pretty light/thin steel. Ours has a factory installed receiver but the swivel wheels seem to require a custom receiver of some sort. Also, there is some debate as to what is considered double/triple towing. The manufacturer insists its an extension of the fifth wheel as it does not pivot freely.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil-

Sounds like a dealer... I've overheard many a "can my vehicle tow this?" conversations at the RV dealers/shows.

Alright, last pictures. I promise.  But I'm pretty excited about this trailer.

Last night was the outside in a dark parking lot. Tonight is the inside, sitting in my driveway, plugged in, watching TV with the fireplace and furnace running. 

This one should have gone in the "Kickin it" topic.





And from another angle with the lovely DW. She'll be thrilled.





j


----------



## dmaxphil

Lovely. Thats a pretty wide shot my friend. What are you using to take that?


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Lovely. Thats a pretty wide shot my friend. What are you using to take that?


Panoramic mode on my cell phone. You can get crazy and do full 360 views, but they look very strange, especially if you aren't steady and don't get the ends lined up right.

j


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## dmaxphil

It did a pretty darn good job


----------



## jbrostek

Great looking trailer the rear looks setup just like mine, but I have a center island and road side steps up.  As for the golf cart thing, we bring two down but a family a class C tows them down for us.  The august trip I am just renting one from a nearby offsite for the week.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I've seen the swivel wheel set ups, I've wondered about them as well, I believe my rig it too long (65 ft overall) to add anymore to. If I had one I would set a video camera to keep an eye it. I did look at some toy haulers while we were shopping, but the BOSS didn't want one. 
My old Cardinal had a receiver hitch on it and I towed my jetski behind it until a Alabama State Trooper informed me that it was illegal to tow doubles in Alabama. Louisiana is the only state I know of here on the Gulf Coast that allows it.


----------



## jbrostek

I can't seem to trust google photo,  randomly the links seem to not work.  I guess its time to find a new way to provide some good pictures since they have failed me.

Of course an antenna topper had to be one of the first things on the truck.


And now finally pictures I hope you all can see of the new beastie.  She is a bit dirty, right after I got her we had some snow, some rain, and then some really cold temps that made it useless to try and wash it.


----------



## tltay2005

Went to an RV Super show today. Actually found a toy hauler I like. Also went and drove a new 2016 Titan XD diesel. Very nice truck, it's definately the truck we want, just want the longer bed which won't be out till June.  This gives us time to sell our current TT.  Looks like this summer we will have a new truck and trailer. Makes me one happy camper!


----------



## dmaxphil

jbrostek said:


> Long overdue pictures of the new truck, of course she is now filthy from the rain and light snow we just got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course you have have to fly and antenna topper.



Am I the only one not seeing the pictures?


----------



## dmaxphil

tltay2005 said:


> Went to an RV Super show today. Actually found a toy hauler I like. Also went and drove a new 2016 Titan XD diesel. Very nice truck, it's definately the truck we want, just want the longer bed which won't be out till June.  This gives us time to sell our current TT.  Looks like this summer we will have a new truck and trailer. Makes me one happy camper!



That is a pretty truck. But I honestly expected more with tow capacity and payload. I take it this is Nissans attempt to compete with the latest 1/2 ton trucks from Ford/Chevy/Dodge - with max fuel efficiency in mind? I was expecting it to be a 3/4 ton-type vehicle.  A fully loaded XD Platinum Reserve comes in at a 10,600 tow capacity and a 1700b payload and $62k


----------



## PaHunter

dmaxphil said:


> Am I the only one not seeing the pictures?



No I couldn't get them either.


----------



## PaHunter

dmaxphil said:


> That is a pretty truck. But I honestly expected more with tow capacity and payload. I take it this is Nissans attempt to compete with the latest 1/2 ton trucks from Ford/Chevy/Dodge - with max fuel efficiency in mind? I was expecting it to be a 3/4 ton-type vehicle.  A fully loaded XD Platinum Reserve comes in at a 10,600 tow capacity and a 1700b payload and $62k



For 62K you can get a fully loaded Crew Cab Diesel one ton and double the nissan towing capacity. But they make trucks for everyone's taste, that is why we are not all driving the same vehicle.


----------



## dmaxphil

PaHunter said:


> For 62K you can get a fully loaded Crew Cab Diesel one ton and double the nissan towing capacity. But they make trucks for everyone's taste, that is why we are not all driving the same vehicle.



After reading the various press releases for the XD, it seems Nissan is going after the 1/2 ton buyer. It is a heavier truck, so I would expect it to tow a larger travel trailer a bit better than the lighter 1/2 tons. Of course, it's possible it may outperform it's specs I suppose. MPGs are reportedly 17mpg combined which would be worse than current 1/2 tons. Only a 26gal fuel tank - that's a lot of extra stops on a trip to Disney. Well, it's good they finally did come up with a diesel - I know it seems Toyota and Nissan have been talking about this for the last decade.


----------



## bama_ed

PaHunter said:


> No I couldn't get them either.



jbrostek's pictures were there yesterday because I saw them.   Truck was in the driveway in front of a 2-story house.  It was tall, wide, and strong.


----------



## tltay2005

dmaxphil said:


> Am I the only one not seeing the pictures?



I can't see them either


----------



## tltay2005

dmaxphil said:


> That is a pretty truck. But I honestly expected more with tow capacity and payload. I take it this is Nissans attempt to compete with the latest 1/2 ton trucks from Ford/Chevy/Dodge - with max fuel efficiency in mind? I was expecting it to be a 3/4 ton-type vehicle.  A fully loaded XD Platinum Reserve comes in at a 10,600 tow capacity and a 1700b payload and $62k



Not looking for the Platinum Reserve package, just the base S model with the 6.5' bed.  We are looking at $42,000-$45,000 depending on options.  All the research we have done and the info from our dealership is that the tow capacity is 12,000 lbs, which is more than enough for what we want.


----------



## tltay2005

dmaxphil said:


> After reading the various press releases for the XD, it seems Nissan is going after the 1/2 ton buyer. It is a heavier truck, so I would expect it to tow a larger travel trailer a bit better than the lighter 1/2 tons. Of course, it's possible it may outperform it's specs I suppose. MPGs are reportedly 17mpg combined which would be worse than current 1/2 tons. Only a 26gal fuel tank - that's a lot of extra stops on a trip to Disney. Well, it's good they finally did come up with a diesel - I know it seems Toyota and Nissan have been talking about this for the last decade.



My DH is a Nissan man, what can I say.  He is driving his third one right now and has been waiting for this diesel.  He has done a ton of research and he knows the Cumming's engine from dealing with them at work.  We only live about 35 minutes from the Fort, and since we both still work full time, only weekend camp within 2 hours of home, so we don't have to worry about lots of extra stops.


----------



## tiggerdad

Oh great, here we go with the picture problems again.  

Last time we had this issue was in October.   Took them a month to get it straight.   Hope we aren't repeating again.


----------



## rideswithchrist

Just picked up these two this month in preparation for a trip to the Fort! The PUP was a steal at $300 and we are in the process of painting and replacing all the foam inside.


----------



## dmaxphil

rideswithchrist said:


> View attachment 146207 View attachment 146208
> 
> Just picked up these two this month in preparation for a trip to the Fort! The PUP was a steal at $300 and we are in the process of painting and replacing all the foam inside.



Awesome deal!


----------



## jbrostek

I gave up on google photos.  Seems they made it next to impossible to share images these days.  I cropped down the resolution and shared them as an upload to disboards, that should work.


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> Oh great, here we go with the picture problems again.
> 
> Last time we had this issue was in October.   Took them a month to get it straight.   Hope we aren't repeating again.



I don't get Most pictures. The computer I use most of the time blocks sites like Photobucket. If they are uploaded at the Disboards, I can see them, just not if they are linked. If I want to see them I have either look at them on my phone or when I get a chance at home.


----------



## PaHunter

Anyone running a CB in their tow vehicle, or am I the only dinosaur. Need to hook up a new antenna set up for the new truck. Recommendations ?? Single whip vs dual ? Had a nice dual setup in a truck long ago I really liked, but have not had one in the TV with a trailer behind me before.
Oh yea, the wife will not let me drill a hole in the roof. Just in case anyone wanted to suggest that.


----------



## tiggerdad

Sorry PA, I haven't dealt with a CB since back in the day when we used to run dogs deer hunting.

Funny thing is I had a 1992 GEO Storm hatchback at the time.  Had an antenna that was so tall it was a danger to low flying aircraft.  Had a lot of good fun with that thing.  Yes, I drilled a hole in the roof to mount it.  Ole front wheel drive hunting vehicle.  It hauled more deer out of the woods than my 1997 Tacoma (Still have it).


----------



## peg110

PaHunter said:


> Anyone running a CB in their tow vehicle, or am I the only dinosaur. Need to hook up a new antenna set up for the new truck. Recommendations ?? Single whip vs dual ? Had a nice dual setup in a truck long ago I really liked, but have not had one in the TV with a trailer behind me before.
> Oh yea, the wife will not let me drill a hole in the roof. Just in case anyone wanted to suggest that.


I want one for my truck. I like them especially when traveling long distance. They are great to warn you about speed traps, accidents, or whatever..... The problem is, is that my F-250 doesn't seem to have a good location to install it. I thought about those units that are "Hidden" and only the Mic/speaker with some controls on it are run up by the driver, but I haven't dealt with a CB in a long time. 

My DW also wouldn't approve of me drilling a hole in the roof for an antenna and even the aesthetics of the interior are important to her. It's also important to me as I don't want to do too much that could impact the resale value of the truck. While mine is a 2014, I'd like to get a 350 in the near future (maybe a year or 2) that is Diesel (mine is gas) so that I am better prepared to handle the 5er in the future. (I really want a Fifth wheel because I like the more "Full size" amenities they can offer.)


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I'm a Dinosaur! I have a Cobra CB, and yes I use it, my wife hated it at first, but she seen how it could come in handy. We came up on a wreck in I75 on our way back from Fort Lauderdale. I turned on the CB heard they had the highway shut down because of a wreck with multiple fatalities. Truckers where taking local back roads to bypass it, so I just off the interstate with them and got around it. Now I will warn yall most talk is "R" rated and not Disney approved! I'll take some pictures of my set up in my truck.


----------



## jbrostek

No CB in this truck, not sure if one will get installed yet.  If you want to go magnet mount my recommendation is the K40, its a longer whip but removable for garages.  Another favorite is the Wilson 1000, both have phenomenal gain but very long whips.   Have you looked at a single stake pocket or bed rail mount with a firestick (name of the antenna)  I had this setup on my 2004 Nissan Titan and it was perfect for the long trips. 

I really think thanks to Sat radio and other things that many truckers no longer use them much.  The information is limited and mostly all you hear are arguments and trash talk.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I have mine mounted to my console, I popped the cup holder part of and screwed the cb to that. The truck has a 12 volt plug inside the console so I ran the plug under the console. I ran the antenna wire under the seat, out the cab through a grommet. I have a 3' firestick mounted on the side of my toolbox. 




I had a whip antenna but my wife said it made my truck look like a giant RC truck.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

jbrostek said:


> The information is limited and mostly all you hear are arguments and trash talk.



Yeah I agree, every now and then you'll come across some old school truckers that talk with some respect.

I have some other friends that camp with us, and when we all go somewhere, we'll use them to cut up on while we're driving.


----------



## peg110

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I had a whip antenna but my wife said it made my truck look like a giant RC truck.




I could see my wife saying the same thing.

I know what you mean about the trash talk. I don't think I need to worry too much about the trash talk. I think it takes a trained ear to make out some of it. I am used to "Static" in the radio from my years in the military, my years with a CB (in the past) my years working in Emergency Services, etc..... While it's been a while, I've gotten good at filtering out the static, where I don't think my DD10 would do as well. Plus, I'd keep the volume down so that it doesn't bother the others as much anyway so that makes it even harder to hear the "Trash talk".  It's probably been about 8 years since I have had a CB in my vehicle so things certainly could have changed though. I still like the convenience they can offer, particularly if you are traveling with a group of vehicles.


----------



## jbrostek

Not against it, and really if you are only looking for 5-10 miles down the road you can squelch out the noise.  We used to use the CB to cut it up down the road, but someone bored would always channel scan and just start trash talking.  Since I have a nationally registered UHF simplex frequency (yeah, I know hard to come by) we migrated over to those and my business UHF radios for those types of travels.

I too am used to the radio and when I had my RV used to tune in from time to time just to break up the drive.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Tiggerdad will be along shortly with a "Breaker Breaker" or "10-4" joke. 

Yeah if it's a group of us traveling together we'll stay off 19 and go to a higher channel.


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Tiggerdad will be along shortly with a "Breaker Breaker" or "10-4" joke.
> 
> Yeah if it's a group of us traveling together we'll stay off 19 and go to a higher channel.



CB Radio slang most commonly used…

Ears on… Means CB Radio on?

Alligator…. Tire treads on the road

Bear- cop…..   Bear in the air police helicopter

Full grown bear- state police……

CB Rambo… Someone talking smack on the CB but won’t do it to your face!

Lot Lizard… Truck Stop Prostitute

County mounty… County cop

Bear in a plain wrapper… No markings on the car

A bear using radar gun is called… A picture taker

A bear with someone pulled over.   A bear with a customer

Diesel bear… DOT Enforcment cop for big trucks

Disco lights… A bear with his lights on, also bubble gum machine

Feed the bear…. Pay a ticket/fine

Mama Bear.. Female cop/  Papa Bear… Officer in charge

Meat Wagon… Ambulance

Super trucker… A truck with no speed governor hauling butt or aggressive driving

(Good Buddy) It was used to mean friend but some Trucker in Ocala, Florida changed it now mean homosexual. So dont use it unless you wish to insult the other truck driver. Replaced by the term Good neighbor now.

 CB Radio Slang for  Truck’s and Company’s

Baboon Butt….. Kenworth trucks because of the way the front grill looks

Brake Check…. Up ahead traffic is slow.

Freight shaker… Freightliner

Bull Rack.. Livestock hauler.. Turd Hauler..

Car Hauler… Parking Lot

Wagon… Trailer… Covered wagon

Chicken truck… Poultry Hauler also chicken choker

CFI/ Company truck… Corn Flake

Este truck lines… Big E

Four Wheller… A car or pickup truck

Pumpkin truck…. Schneider National

Salt Shaker… Snow plows

Skate Board… Flatbed Trailer

Suicide Jockey…. Haz Mat Hauler Explosives

Weiner Wagon… Werner trucking

Back Door/Front Door…. When you’re behind or in front of another truck, the rocking chair is in the middle

Chicken Coop…. Weigh Stations/ Port of Entry

Whats that chicken coop up ahead doing? She is closed or open for business

High Speed Chicken Feed… Drugs used to keep you awake

Joke Book/Comic Book/Cheat Sheet…. Log Books

Pickle Park…  Rest Area

Schneider Eggs…. Orange Construction Barrels

Truck Stop Tommy…. A pimp

Zipper… Painted lines on the road


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> CB Radio slang most commonly used…


Flash back... FLASH BACK!!

Wow, Breaker, Breaker. 1979 called. They want my Duster with dual whip antennas off the trunk back. 

One of my old CBs is on the shelf in the garage with a magnetic mount antenna and, I think, an SWR meter. Haven't used it in years. My DW's best friend is married to an OTR trucker. (Pumpkin driver, And the Schnieder terminals are called pumpkin patchs). He hasn't had a CB in his truck for over 10 years. He said with satellite radios and cell phones, there isn't really a need. His trucks incab computer does his navigation and reroutes with traffic updates. When the Midwest was flooded after Christmas, he had a trip from Nashville to Topeka. Computer came up with a creative route, but he got there.

I use Google Maps on my phone for navigation. It shows traffic and will make rerouting suggestions. I use Waze to keep up with "Smokies taking pictures" and wrecks. My phone sits in a windshield mount, buletooth connected to my radio and buttons on my steering wheel to make calls, play music or anything else. 

j


----------



## ilovedisneymm

42 Good Buddy


----------



## ilovedisneymm

Hubby use to run a RGN oversized during winter months before all the kiddos.


----------



## peg110

Ah... memories!


----------



## tiggerdad




----------



## Clifton Tesh

tiggerdad said:


> CB Radio slang most commonly used…
> 
> Ears on… Means CB Radio on?
> 
> Alligator…. Tire treads on the road
> 
> Bear- cop…..   Bear in the air police helicopter
> 
> Full grown bear- state police……
> 
> CB Rambo… Someone talking smack on the CB but won’t do it to your face!
> 
> Lot Lizard… Truck Stop Prostitute
> 
> County mounty… County cop
> 
> Bear in a plain wrapper… No markings on the car
> 
> A bear using radar gun is called… A picture taker
> 
> A bear with someone pulled over.   A bear with a customer
> 
> Diesel bear… DOT Enforcment cop for big trucks
> 
> Disco lights… A bear with his lights on, also bubble gum machine
> 
> Feed the bear…. Pay a ticket/fine
> 
> Mama Bear.. Female cop/  Papa Bear… Officer in charge
> 
> Meat Wagon… Ambulance
> 
> Super trucker… A truck with no speed governor hauling butt or aggressive driving
> 
> (Good Buddy) It was used to mean friend but some Trucker in Ocala, Florida changed it now mean homosexual. So dont use it unless you wish to insult the other truck driver. Replaced by the term Good neighbor now.
> 
> CB Radio Slang for  Truck’s and Company’s
> 
> Baboon Butt….. Kenworth trucks because of the way the front grill looks
> 
> Brake Check…. Up ahead traffic is slow.
> 
> Freight shaker… Freightliner
> 
> Bull Rack.. Livestock hauler.. Turd Hauler..
> 
> Car Hauler… Parking Lot
> 
> Wagon… Trailer… Covered wagon
> 
> Chicken truck… Poultry Hauler also chicken choker
> 
> CFI/ Company truck… Corn Flake
> 
> Este truck lines… Big E
> 
> Four Wheller… A car or pickup truck
> 
> Pumpkin truck…. Schneider National
> 
> Salt Shaker… Snow plows
> 
> Skate Board… Flatbed Trailer
> 
> Suicide Jockey…. Haz Mat Hauler Explosives
> 
> Weiner Wagon… Werner trucking
> 
> Back Door/Front Door…. When you’re behind or in front of another truck, the rocking chair is in the middle
> 
> Chicken Coop…. Weigh Stations/ Port of Entry
> 
> Whats that chicken coop up ahead doing? She is closed or open for business
> 
> High Speed Chicken Feed… Drugs used to keep you awake
> 
> Joke Book/Comic Book/Cheat Sheet…. Log Books
> 
> Pickle Park…  Rest Area
> 
> Schneider Eggs…. Orange Construction Barrels
> 
> Truck Stop Tommy…. A pimp
> 
> Zipper… Painted lines on the road



I believe suicide jockey has been replaced by Dynamite sled/wagon or Thermos bottle. 

My favorite has always been "pregnant roller skate" - aka VW Beetle


----------



## tiggerdad

I'm an emergency medicine guy so Meatwagon for ambulance was my favorite. 

Lot Lizard is another good one


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Another proud new camper, 

No ideas Ed, I know you have a Suburban.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Another proud new camper,
> 
> No ideas Ed, I know you have a Suburban.


We have a phrase for this in the Corps:

Overcome, improvise, adapt, and succeede

I really love how this video shows exactly how well that trailer frame is designed to put all the weight in front of the axles so that your truck is supporting most of the camper.


----------



## tiggerdad




----------



## tiggerdad

This one is a bit long but hopefully a reminder for those of you who pull vehicles behind your RVs


----------



## peg110

Three videos that I just can't possibly believe.


----------



## bama_ed

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Another proud new camper,
> 
> No ideas Ed, I know you have a Suburban.



Randy, I always thought a 5th wheel was out of reach given my present tow vehicle.  But now.... 

Bama ed


----------



## peg110

bama_ed said:


> Randy, I always thought a 5th wheel was out of reach given my present tow vehicle.  But now....
> 
> Bama ed


Just don't forget to switch the lights to the other side.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

tiggerdad said:


>


Thank you for posting this. I have been looking for this video forever and a day.


----------



## tiggerdad

Clifton Tesh said:


> Thank you for posting this. I have been looking for this video forever and a day.


Why?  Is it you?


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Hey Michael, I'm on my way, just gotta stop by the ATM...


----------



## tiggerdad

Yeah that one is a classic


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Tiggerdad just ordered him a new Motorhome, he sent me the video of it...




A whole new meaning to the word "Land Yacht".


----------



## tiggerdad

Yeah, just gotta be careful in the turns.  She's a bit top heavy.  Can't get dang kids to quit jumping off roof.  Keep having to go back and get em.


----------



## peg110

I am starting to think that Trucks and Towing shouldn't be a separate THREAD, but a Separate FORUM (Maybe a "Sub" of Camping).


----------



## 2goofycampers

peg110 said:


> I am starting to think that Trucks and Towing shouldn't be a separate THREAD, but a Separate FORUM (Maybe a "Sub" of Camping).


That was why the camping community forum was started.


----------



## peg110

2goofycampers said:


> That was why the camping community forum was started.


I think a truck/towing thread could stand well on it's own in a separate forum. I do think it belongs under the Camping section, because, let's face it, most people at the Polynesian aren't bringing a truck OR towing.


----------



## tiggerdad

The problem with the community thread is there is only like 4 of us that know it exists.

It's like the Work in Progress thread, tons of knowledge in there, but nobody reads it or knows it's there.

Shame really.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> The problem with the community thread is there is only like 4 of us that know it exists.
> 
> It's like the Work in Progress thread, tons of knowledge in there, but nobody reads it or knows it's there.
> 
> Shame really.



Community Thread, maybe 6 people know.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

tiggerdad said:


> The problem with the community thread is there is only like 4 of us that know it exists.
> 
> It's like the Work in Progress thread, tons of knowledge in there, but nobody reads it or knows it's there.
> 
> Shame really.


I had no idea it existed until I saw this


----------



## tiggerdad

Clifton Tesh said:


> I had no idea it existed until I saw this



Ok, now 7 of us.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

PaHunter said:


> Community Thread, maybe 6 people know



I stop by there on Sundays.


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I stop by there on Sundays.


8...


----------



## sirenia88

Which thread member am I then? Chop meat?   Feeling are hurt now going home and taking my ball with me! LOL

I will take it one further.  A truck and towing sub forum and Trip Report FW centric Sub forum.   There are a few of us that generally do not wonder past the camping forum like myself.


----------



## peg110

I only wander briefly beyond the camping forum. Tips, and budgets. 

Sometimes I wonder to the "Rumors" but they are brutal there.


----------



## sirenia88

I was thinking about this a bit more.  If we ha the sub sub forum when it comes to the Trucks, that might not as good as an idea.  That could turn into a real quagmire as in the battle of the brands.  We all know what brand is the best... mine!


----------



## dmaxphil

tiggerdad said:


> 8...



I post my deepest, darkest secrets there.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

peg110 said:


> I only wander briefly beyond the camping forum. Tips, and budgets.
> 
> Sometimes I wonder to the "Rumors" but they are brutal there.



Yeah they are, I don't venture far from the Camping board myself.


----------



## PaHunter

I wander from the camping board occasionally over to the Photography board, but that is about it. Some really big drama out there in the big yonder.


----------



## tiggerdad

dmaxphil said:


> I post my deepest, darkest secrets there.



I thought that was 2GoofyCampers...

Oh well, 9...


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> Oh well, 9...



It's a elite club...


----------



## tiggerdad

Fraternity I would think...


----------



## dmaxphil

tiggerdad said:


> Fraternity I would think...



But way less cool/popular


----------



## peg110

dmaxphil said:


> But way less cool/popular




Hmmm, the bar is set high!


----------



## Clifton Tesh

peg110 said:


> View attachment 148082
> 
> Hmmm, the bar is set high!


Lambda Lambda Lambda!!!


----------



## peg110

Clifton Tesh said:


> Lambda Lambda Lambda!!!


And Omega Moo.


----------



## tltay2005

PaHunter said:


> I wander from the camping board occasionally over to the Photography board, but that is about it. Some really big drama out there in the big yonder.



I like the photography board lots of photo games and really nice members.   You want drama, the DCL boards can be brutal, don't even dare think of breaking a rule!


----------



## tltay2005

Ok, back to trucks.  Its been 12 years since we have purchased a new truck.  With the prices they want now we could buy a small house!  The worst part is that I was hoping with a new truck with a higher towing capacity we could trade up to a small toy hauler, but not sure we can afford both .  Well at least the new truck will have a longer bed so we can put the cart in there......but then where will the bikes go, oh lord, always something.


----------



## jbrostek

I had the same issue.  I looked at new and even widdled the price down, but it was not far enough for me to being able to deal with the payment.  I ended up with a certified used, found a 2012 with only 20500 miles on it for 44k (under kbb book, but above kbb trade.)  I had a decent chunk down as well but still needed to finance the rest.  The payment is in the realm though I would have liked it a little lower (who doesn't).


----------



## peg110

I still have 4 years to go on my F-250. $620/month, higher insurance, higher gas consumption, higher maintenance costs.... Remind me again why I wanted a truck? Oh yeah, to tow the TT.

On the lighter side, I love my truck. It's a comfortable (and safe) ride with lots of bells and whistles... but oh the costs!!!!

I hope I will be able to keep the truck for a couple of years AFTER it's been paid off. It sure would be nice to get some other bills paid down.


----------



## PaHunter

When we went to look at our "new" truck, the dealer asked what kind of payment would we like to have. I told him same as the current one, he asked how much that was and I replied nothing. Our old truck had been paid off for years. 
One dealer low balled our trade and did want to even talk about what we wanted, he kept going back to new trucks. Bigger kickback than selling us a used one. Funny, that dealer still has that truck on his lot. We are not in a huge market for 3500 crew cab diesels. Not many farms around here.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

tltay2005 said:


> Ok, back to trucks.  Its been 12 years since we have purchased a new truck.  With the prices they want now we could buy a small house!  The worst part is that I was hoping with a new truck with a higher towing capacity we could trade up to a small toy hauler, but not sure we can afford both .  Well at least the new truck will have a longer bed so we can put the cart in there......but then where will the bikes go, oh lord, always something.


Worked at a dealer for a long time. They have lots of wiggle room on your middle package and work trucks. If you play your cards right, you can get a $40,000 truck for around $28,000. Look into retired loaners, the best deals are always on extended cabs (not crew or single cabs), and if you go at the end of the year they will do anything to get rid of the "end year" models. Now this really only applies to your 150/1500 models. If you're looking for a 250/2500 or larger, buying used or repo'd is your best option.


----------



## WishIwasFishin

Time to start lurking over here, too.

Bill


----------



## tiggerdad

WishIwasFishin said:


> Time to start lurking over here, too.
> 
> Bill


Yyeeeeppp...


----------



## peg110

PaHunter said:


> When we went to look at our "new" truck, the dealer asked what kind of payment would we like to have. I told him same as the current one, he asked how much that was and I replied nothing. Our old truck had been paid off for years.
> One dealer low balled our trade and did want to even talk about what we wanted, he kept going back to new trucks. Bigger kickback than selling us a used one. Funny, that dealer still has that truck on his lot. We are not in a huge market for 3500 crew cab diesels. Not many farms around here.



I hate when they ask "What kind of payment do you want?"  They will Tweak the terms (as much as they can ) to maximize the purchase price and still meat your payment. I tell them, not to worry about the payment until we have figured out the price of the truck. (I usually already have financing set up at my Credit union at MUCH cheaper then they can even touch). 

2 years ago, I traded in my Newer F150 looking for an F250. The 150 had about $7K of equity on it. When I went looking at the one dealership, they weren't budging on price. Not even the slightest. (It was an F250 Lariat Crew Cab SRW Short box). I got up and walked out. Thanked them for their time. Amazingly 2 days later they called and came down a few thousand, but it still wasn't enough.

I ended up going to another dealer (30 minutes away) found a nice truck (similar to the first) and told them the price I wanted to pay "Out the door" (not payments, the final price). I told them of my previous experience with the other dealer. The sales woman took good care of us. Met our price (which was reasonable for US and for THEM) Plus we had the added Sprayed in Bed liner (Best thing I ever did too).

I hate salesman (or rather dealing with them). You almost have to be as stubborn with them as they are with you. It's your money after all. They want it so make them work for it. Don't just give it to them.


----------



## pluto67

PaHunter said:


> When we went to look at our "new" truck, the dealer asked what kind of payment would we like to have. I told him same as the current one, he asked how much that was and I replied nothing. Our old truck had been paid off for years.
> One dealer low balled our trade and did want to even talk about what we wanted, he kept going back to new trucks. Bigger kickback than selling us a used one. Funny, that dealer still has that truck on his lot. We are not in a huge market for 3500 crew cab diesels. Not many farms around here.


----------



## WishIwasFishin

Alright guys, give it to me straight. What's the maximum I can do with a 350 diesel SRW?? Pin weight, towing? These RV salesmen are telling me I can pull a big Montana or Sandpiper with no problem. Maybe dry weight, but not with batteries, fuel, etc. I'm not so sure. I keep telling my wife that it's either downsize the camper or get a dually. She's not liking the word "downsize". I have a buddy that pulls his 42' 5th wheel with a 2500 diesel. Looks iffy. He swears it's fine. But what do I know?!

Bill


----------



## Teamubr

WishIwasFishin said:


> Alright guys, give it to me straight. What's the maximum I can do with a 350 diesel SRW??


This depends on a couple of things. Year, cab style, 2WD or 4WD and sometimes axle ratio.

Here's an example: My F350 dually is a 2011. It has similar ratings to 2015/16 trucks. I think the newer trucks are slightly higher.

From Ford's 2011 tow guide: 5th wheel towing with a single rear wheel (SRW) crewcab, 2wd, all axles- 16,100; 4wd is- 15,700. A dually is: 2wd- 22,000, 4wd- 21,500.
Pin weight varies from 3000-3200 depending on wheelbase and cab for the SRW. The DRW is 4500-6000.

So the short answer is, yes, a SRW crewcab 4wd F350 diesel 'can' tow my 42 ft, 14,000 lb, 2700lb pin weight trailer and still likely be just under the limits after you add your family to the truck. I've towed at the limit before with different vehicles. It does 'ok', but the extra stability of the dually makes towing big, much more comfortable, especially on long drives. If the finances aren't right to get a new trailer AND a new truck, use the truck you have and judge, knowing you may want to look at a different truck in a year or two.

I just looked up the 2016 trucks. SRW- 15,700-16,000, DRW-23,500-24,500. The SRW is about the same as my 2011, but the DRW is 2000 higher.

j


----------



## sirenia88

Truck payments?  What's that?  I don't have those issues... anymore.

AS for the towing with the 350 SRW diesel, you should be fine with with the lighter end 5ers.  However the heavier ones it just makes sense to go with a duely long bed. Speaking of which the DW and I will be looking at some trailers in the next few weeks.  Just getting more ideas for the next model if we so choose to upgrade.


----------



## tiggerdad

As a general rule:  greater than 15,000# then more stable with a duelly.   I pulled a 15,000# 5th wheel for my BIL with my old 2003 f-250 and it pulled fine but safety and stability favor the duelly.  That's a lot of weight and a blown tire on the rear of a duelly means you still have one more tire to keep you safely to the side of the road.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Our Sandpiper GVWR is 15,500# that's right on the top end of a SRW 1 Ton tow rating. That's the number you want to go by, GVWR  and Pinbox weight, I would pay the UVW (unloaded vehicle weight) any mind. I've heard of salesmen pushing that number but you wanna be able to handle the biggest weight number on the yellow spec sticker on a 5er. A SRW could handle the weight as Teamubr mentioned but it with little wiggle room. A Dually would handle the load better, if you could take a SRW and tow a 5er a distance and then tow the same 5er with a Dually, you will feel a big difference in handling, you feel more in stable and control and less stressed. I have a buddy with a 11 F250 and a 40ft 5er, and he doesn't like pulling far because it stresses him out, I know everyone is different and don't stress of the same stuff. If it falls under the maximum rated and you feel comfortable driving it, go for it, people do it everyday, but to some It's a peace of mind thing for some, especially while you on vacation to relax and enjoy it. Yeah its expensive peace of mind, but worth it if makes your camping trips more enjoyable and less stressful. 

Remember there is a price to pay for having a dually, two more tires to replace, bank & some other drive thru's will be out the window, not to mention parking. 

Hope this helps, just my 2 cents worth.


----------



## jbrostek

My Sanibel is a 15500 unit, but she is pin heavy.  My previous 2006 SRW pulled it just fine but on any decent grade it struggled due to the gearing of the truck.  I figure I am rolling around 14-14500 depending on how loaded up she is for various trips.  The one time I rolled CAT scales to check my weights she had no water, was moderately loaded for a 5 day weekend and I had 100# to spare on the RAWR and if I recall 3-500# on my GVW, trailer weighed in at 14xxx. 

After towing the trailer with a Dually for my Christmas trip (after my 2006 decided it didn't want to make the trip.)  It was night and day difference, and that was in a 2007 Chevy 3500 DRW.  The gearing and stability specially over transitions was night and day difference.

I would say it all depends on how much you tow the camper, where plan to tow in the most.  If you are generally flat land and 200 mile radius minus a long trip or two like Disney I think you can deal with an SRW.  If you are in the eastern hills or western mountains you are not going to be happy trying to climb grades due to the gearing.


----------



## rideswithchrist

My husband would be embarrassed at even posting this in the midst of all the diesels hahah.

 

17.5 mpg when pulling this little pup through the Texas Hill County, I am not complaining.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Nothing to complain about, 17.5 mpg is good! Nice setup!


----------



## tiggerdad

Wish I got that kind of mileage.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> Wish I got that kind of mileage.



Hard to get that kind of milage at Mach 2 speeds, Mr. IFLYLOW....


----------



## tiggerdad

rideswithchrist said:


> My husband would be embarrassed at even posting this in the midst of all the diesels hahah.
> 
> View attachment 149253
> 
> 17.5 mpg when pulling this little pup through the Texas Hill County, I am not complaining.



Bet I could make mach 3 with that trailer.

Seriously, I wanted a popup like that but The Boss had a list of needs/wants that had to be met.  Once I figured how large of a rig I was going to need to meet that list I was able to find a moderate 2 axle condo that met her specs and I was able to sneak in a few things like an outdoor kitchen. 

I really am envious.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> Seriously, I wanted a popup like that but The Boss had a list of needs/wants that had to be met. Once I figured how large of a rig I was going to need to meet that list I was able to find a moderate 2 axle condo that met her specs and I was able to sneak in a few things like an outdoor kitchen.



Hey you could be on to something new here, a pop up fifthwheel, best of both worlds!


----------



## WishIwasFishin

Great info guys. Not exactly what Heather wanted to hear but she will survive. I'm thinking we will have to downsize a little bit. I would rather be safe than sorry. I plan on traveling farther than Disney in this thing and will probably be doing some smaller mountains, too. I guess I will be looking for lighter campers now which is fine with me. Maybe a smaller price tag   Or maybe that's wishful thinking.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Hey you could be on to something new here, a pop up fifthwheel.


You mean like Will Smith's?





Here's a little video. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Hey Randy, wouldn't we just discussing cab overs as tow vehicles?


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

tiggerdad said:


> Hey Randy, wouldn't we just discussing cab overs as tow vehicles?



Yep sure was, I still swear it would be cheaper in the long run. Cabovers are cool looking but I still like this 81' KW.


----------



## peg110

Or the other side of the spectrum. The Truck Campers. I have been looking at them too. You'd think they would be less expensive because they are smaller. NOT! They can go as high as $50K. Some descent ones START at $20K. We bought our 27' TT (granted it was used but only a few years old). 

Often times we need little more than a traveling bathroom and a place to lay our head. That's why I looked at them. I guess I need to look elsewhere!


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> You mean like Will Smith's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a little video.
> 
> j



Yeah, must be hard being that oppressed. I think I could suffer.


----------



## Barney Fife

WishIwasFishin said:


> Great info guys. Not exactly what Heather wanted to hear but she will survive. I'm thinking we will have to downsize a little bit. I would rather be safe than sorry. I plan on traveling farther than Disney in this thing and will probably be doing some smaller mountains, too. I guess I will be looking for lighter campers now which is fine with me. Maybe a smaller price tag   Or maybe that's wishful thinking.



I weighed my 2015 F350 CC LB SRW a few weeks ago. I have a 90 gallon auxiliary tank in the bed so I filled up before getting on the scales. With me, the wife, and over 120 gallons of fuel, the truck weighed 4080 on the rear axle. My rear GAWR is 7000 lbs. so that leaves me with a hitch pin weight of 2920 lbs.. Diesel fuel weighs about 7.5 lbs./gallon so if I left the extra tank empty, I'd lose about 675 lbs. of weight behind the cab. I will guess at least 400 lbs. of that will benefit the rear axle. So, now I'm looking at maybe 3700 lbs. on the rear axle.

Long story short, a 3300 lb. pin weight would not concern me at all. I'm not as concerned with the entire weight (GCW) as I am the rear axle.

This was way back in 2011. My old 2009 F350 and it pulled the Cyclone like a pro. I remember one wicked storm coming home one night near Lexington, NC. Strong cross winds but we stayed very stable. But shortly thereafter, I realized the pin was far heavier than I thought and I was getting close to 1000 lbs. overweight on the rear axle. So we traded it in for a dually. 

Once we get our Work & Play TT toy hauler sold, we are getting another 5er. I will definitely get a triple axle at least 40' long. Just won't be something super heavy on the pin.


----------



## 4077

peg110 said:


> Or the other side of the spectrum. The Truck Campers. I have been looking at them too. You'd think they would be less expensive because they are smaller. NOT! They can go as high as $50K. Some descent ones START at $20K. We bought our 27' TT (granted it was used but only a few years old).
> 
> Often times we need little more than a traveling bathroom and a place to lay our head. That's why I looked at them. I guess I need to look elsewhere!



It's interesting.....don't hear too much about truck campers on here ever. I too was surprised at the prices of them when searching the RV sale websites. It is interesting to see the very high end ones with multiple slides...


----------



## tiggerdad

Yeah, they kinda proud of them.

Randy, I still like the cab overs.  Sorry bud, the ability to be maneuverable just wins me over.  Like this 79 model International Transtar II:


----------



## barbz56

We bought a used Layton 19Ft. TT and will be coming to the Fort in October.  Pulling it with my 1999 Ford Ranger   https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206750224021719&set=pb.1458354150.-2207520000.1454617437.&type=3&size=1536,2048

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...0.-2207520000.1454617437.&type=3&size=960,720


----------



## jbrostek

If I can ever swing full time for a year or two and travel the states, I would invest in a custom hauler.  And I have thought about a cab over as the perfect hauler because its turning radius would kick all in the nose.


----------



## tiggerdad

barbz56 said:


> We bought a used Layton 19Ft. TT and will be coming to the Fort in October.  Pulling it with my 1999 Ford Ranger   https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206750224021719&set=pb.1458354150.-2207520000.1454617437.&type=3&size=1536,2048
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205740336295157&set=pb.1458354150.-2207520000.1454617437.&type=3&size=960,720



Good looking compact rig there.  Ranger handles it pretty well I assume?


----------



## barbz56

I don't know yet tiggerdad.  This truck was a project, from the frame up, son did all work cause frame was bent.  Hubby had him beef up suspension.  We haven't towed it yet.  Hopefully it will tow it ok.


----------



## tiggerdad

Looking forward to hearing about it.


----------



## barbz56

Thanks,  we are camping Oct 1-8.  We can't wait.


----------



## rideswithchrist

Love this thread- lots of good looking set ups. I can we the hubby upgrading us in the future.


----------



## peg110

So I have a question. My TT stabilizers are a "Scissors" style (and TOTALLY Manual) and the base of them (part on the ground) is circular (maybe 10" in diameter) and QUITE rusted. When I do put them down I put them on Blocks or something similar so they are not sinking in the ground, but I have concerns about them rusting out. 

My question is, what are the best stabilizers to get to replace them with and how hard is it to change them out? I am pretty handy but haven't really done much mechanical work on the TT (at least not yet).

Ideas/suggestions are welcomed and encouraged.


----------



## tltay2005

We just replaced our rear ones (ordered from Amazon), and they are so much easier to crank than the old ones.  We don't have the scissor style, so not sure we can be of much help.


----------



## tiggerdad

Most of them just bolt onto the frame.  On my jayco, the scissor stabilizers have 4 bolts that mount them to a plate on the frame.  Easy replace if I ever have to.  I also put something under mine.  I actually have 8x10" pieces of 3/4" plywood pieces cut to put under mine.  I use an old trick to keep ants out of my camper.  I put vaseline on the plywood.  This keeps the mess off the stabilizers.  The ants won't cross the vaseline.


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> Most of them just bolt onto the frame.  On my jayco, the scissor stabilizers have 4 bolts that mount them to a plate on the frame.  Easy replace if I ever have to.  I also put something under mine.  I actually have 8x10" pieces of 3/4" plywood pieces cut to put under mine.  I use an old trick to keep ants out of my camper.  I put vaseline on the plywood.  This keeps the mess off the stabilizers.  The ants won't cross the vaseline.


I haven't had an issue with Ants (at least not yet) but I suppose it's worth noting for the future.

I have a set of "Leveling" blocks (well actually 2 sets of 10) like below (but mine are orange). I usually use one under each of the stabilizers. I also have several pieces of 4x4 if I have to get more height. I don't, however, think it's conducive to Vaseline all over these to solve the issue of ants.






Maybe someday, I will have automatic stabilizers. You know, like in a Class A! Ah... to dream.


----------



## peg110

Okay, this is depressing.... This thread is making it WELL below the fold. I think we need a bit more Testosterone to keep this thread alive (and above the fold)


----------



## tiggerdad

Me towing  to gameday...






@Flametamr , this your setup?


----------



## Teamubr

Why doesn't it surprise me that those pics were taken in Alabama? 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> Why doesn't it surprise me that those pics were taken in Alabama?
> 
> j



Yeah, you would have thought "Only in Oklahoma" right?


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Yeah, you would have thought "Only in Oklahoma" right?


Or maybe Arkansas. 

j


----------



## 4077

Went to Chevy few days ago to look at 2500 HD....looked specifically at the 6.0 with the 4.10 axle ratio....that vehicle has 5th wheel max of 14000 the one that really interests me has a GVWR of 11,500. There are several travel trailers with a layout that closely resembles the 5th wheel layout I like which come out much lighter than that, so seems like a good possible future truck.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Teamubr said:


> Why doesn't it surprise me that those pics were taken in Alabama?
> 
> j



Why's it always gotta be hating on Alabama and our crazy ideas, haha. I think I seen that fire engine/camper around here so yeah maybe it is Flametamrs.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

4077, my friend had a truck with the 6.0 and 4.10, it was a 2008. Towing his 28 TT he averaged 5.8 mpg towing to Disney from Alabama.  He couldn't do anything to get the gas mileage up. Just wanted to pass along what I heard from him, he traded for a 2008 2500 with a Duramax.


----------



## tiggerdad

My f-250 is in the neighborhood of 15,000# so not much difference.   The 5er we are considering is in the neighborhood of 12,000 loaded.  My current TT is 10,000 loaded.  So not much difference. 

My neighbor has an '08 Duramax and loves it.  Pulls his 35' TT and gets about 9 mpg, not much difference from mine.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Why's it always gotta be hating on Alabama and our crazy ideas.


Don't worry. Alabama doesn't have a monopoly on stupid. I live in a fairly affluent small town in a blue collar county. We are the county seat with the court house. We're close enough to St Louis, but far enough out to not deal with all the "city" stuff. 

I took this picture a few years ago of an Audi convertable transporting his gas grill to somewhere. What you can't see is the $5 green indoor extension cord he was using to tie it down. He had a lot of faith in the extension cord, because he was hauling pretty good around this corner.






j


----------



## tiggerdad

Well, he is technically "towing"...or maybe "hauling"...

That still counts right?


----------



## Flametamr

How about this one I saw. Trucks are not needed here.


----------



## jaredjohn4

Just upgraded my tow vehicle, now I have to figure out how to buy diesel fuel at a truck stop at 2:00 in the morning.  Have to go through the truck lanes because of the size of the rig.

Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.....Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.....Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights....Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights

***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
Upgraded to
### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###
55 foot long when hooked up!


----------



## 5kidsmommy

We are boring. Our tow vehicle is my daily vehicle which is a 2008 Chevy Suburban LT. We have a nice light hybrid because well my husband didn't want to tow anything too heavy especially since we do a lot of cross country towing including trips out west. 

Once we have less kids at home I'd love to move up to a dual cab truck of some sort but for now my suburban is great. Easy to drive, just the gas mileage sucks.


----------



## PaHunter

jaredjohn4 said:


> Just upgraded my tow vehicle, now I have to figure out how to buy diesel fuel at a truck stop at 2:00 in the morning.  Have to go through the truck lanes because of the size of the rig.
> 
> Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.....Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
> Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.....Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
> Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights....Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
> Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
> Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights
> 
> ***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
> Upgraded to
> ### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###
> 55 foot long when hooked up!



At 53 feet we fit thru the RV lanes found at Flying J truckstops with no problem. Also if you get a Flying J credit card and are a GoodSam member you can save 7-9 cents off the cash price of fuel.


----------



## Teamubr

jaredjohn4 said:


> Have to go through the truck lanes because of the size of the rig.





PaHunter said:


> At 53 feet we fit thru the RV lanes found at Flying J truckstops with no problem.


jaredjohn,

Flying Js are hit or miss getting a long setup through the RV islands. I agree with PaHunter (Chris) that many will be ok, but I know there are several in GA, don't remember which ones on I-75, that are really tight on the exit from the RV pumps. The race trailer was 48 ft. Total length with the truck was about 65 and the trailer axles were set back quite a bit making a very wide turning radius on the trailer. We just went to the semi pumps and didn't try the RV pumps. The team Toy hauler was 43 ft, about the same as my new 5er, but the axles are more forward. The concern there isn't clipping the wheels on things, but the tail swinging wide and taking something out with the back corner. (I did that at Camping on the Gulf with my old 33 ft TT. In my defense, I told the guy to move his golf cart, but he said it would be fine)

I PM'd you on the loyalty cards for the truck stops, but my Pilot/Flying J required 500 gallons purchased showing the card before it would start the semi pumps. 

j


----------



## jaredjohn4

Thanks for all the info.  We're heading to the fort for spring break.  With the van running 13mpg we had all the gas stops planned out and what food was where.  Now with the new rig running maybe 9.5mpg and needing diesel, we don't know for sure where we will be stopping.  Making the trade up disrupted our scheduled route to Florida.  I hope the weather gets better so I can de-winterize it before we go.  Last year we had to do that at the fort with our old popup.  Even though we are a lot bigger this year, the new rig seams to drive and handle easier than the old setup.  btw, I won the truck in a raffle, but had to buy the fifth wheel to go with it.  Just hoping things go as smooth as we have planned, not much practice camping this time of year.

Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.........Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.......Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights......Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights

***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
Really Upgraded To
### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab (Black on Black with Black) / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###


----------



## Teamubr

Jaredjohn,

Congrats on the truck and the trailer. Spring break is a great time to be at the Fort.

Where are you coming from? Your profile just says Illinois. I may be able to help with fuel stops. I've made the trip towing to Orlando many times. 

And you may find towing the 5er is easier than a pop up. Especially backing. 

j


----------



## bama_ed

Congrats from me too, jaredjohn, on the new camper and TV.  Bama Ed


----------



## Barney Fife

If all goes as planned, this rig will be at the Fort on December 10. This pic was taken yesterday bringing the new Vengeance home.


----------



## jaredjohn4

We looked at a patio unit also, but ended up with an elevated rear living instead.  It comes with a 20 foot awning, so I think we will have plenty of outside room.  We should roll into the fort on March 25.


Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.........Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.......Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights......Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights

***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
Really Upgraded To
### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab (Black on Black with Black) / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###


----------



## Teamubr

jaredjohn4 said:


> We ... ended up with an elevated rear living instead.  It comes with a 20 foot awning,


We saw that Cougar at the RV show in January. All that basement storage under the LR is great. I was trying to figure out if I could use it for DS' bunk room. 

My new 5er has a 20 ft awning too. Not sure I'll know what to do with all the space. My old 5er only had a 13 ft one.

j


----------



## PaHunter

With the Flying J RV card there was no minimum to hit the semi pumps, just a bit different in process. And most of the time at them you didn't get a receipt. We had to hit a couple on the way down and back at the RV lanes were all full or in VA there was gasoline tanker filling the gas station up and was in the way.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> With the Flying J RV card there was no minimum to hit the semi pumps, just a bit different in process.


Your FJ loyalty (not credit) card activated the semi pumps right away? Ours with the race team didn't. We had to go inside and give them the card to scan/swipe until we had purchased 500 gallons before we could use it at the pump to turn them on. 

Anyone used their Good Sam card at a Pilot/FJ? Does it turn on the pump without going inside AND automatically give you the discount?

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Your FJ loyalty (not credit) card activated the semi pumps right away? Ours with the race team didn't. We had to go inside and give them the card to scan/swipe until we had purchased 500 gallons before we could use it at the pump to turn them on.
> 
> Anyone used their Good Sam card at a Pilot/FJ? Does it turn on the pump without going inside AND automatically give you the discount?
> 
> j



Yes I used the Pilot/FJ credit card, along with the goodsam membership and I used it once or twice at the fuel pumps before the trip, all smaller amounts. Then during the trip used it at both the RV pumps and Semi pumps, semi pump had to hit the tractor button, skip the DEF and then enter my control number and filler up.
Had no problems using it and never had to go inside. And with the discount being off of the cash price, can't beat the deal. Of course we would have paid it off at the end of the month even on a regular credit card, so having to pay it off monthly is not an issue for us.

We used just the goodsam card for gas last year and never had to go inside, just swipe before then used credit card. But with the Loyalty card this year made a huge difference, up to 13 cents per gallon in reality, because you are getting the discount off of the cash price, not paying the credit price which is about 6 or 7 cents higher.


----------



## tiggerdad

I usually pay cash to get the cheaper price.  With the auxillary tank I thankfully can get about 650 miles between fills, which is usually a day's drive and I am ready to rest.  I stick to the bigger truck stops and use the big truck lanes as I have found too often that the RV lanes are either not friendly for longer campers or already occupied and no where for me to park out of the way to wait for them to open.


----------



## peg110

So how much of an advantage is there at FJ/Pilot with the loyalty card and Goodsam card for us regular Gas users?

I'd love to have diesel, but it's hard to justify the cost at this point.


----------



## jbrostek

RV Plus (Charge card) all discounts off cash price:

$.10 Propane

*Good Sam
Member*
$.04 on Gas
$.06 on Diesel

*Good Sam
Deluxe Member*
$.05 on Gas
$.07 on Diesel

*Good Sam
Life Member*
$.06 on Gas
$.08 on Diesel

*Good Sam
Elite Member*
$.07 on Gas
$.09 on Diesel


Good Sam Swipe and Save (discount off price based on payment method (cash or Credit)):

$.05 propane
$.03 Gas or Diesel


----------



## Barney Fife

I was not a huge fan of the tan colored campers that was becoming the norm. But then I saw one behind a nice shiny black truck. Boom!

Have a great time. Wish we were going that soon.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> I usually pay cash to get the cheaper price.  With the auxillary tank I thankfully can get about 650 miles between fills, which is usually a day's drive and I am ready to rest.  I stick to the bigger truck stops and use the big truck lanes as I have found too often that the RV lanes are either not friendly for longer campers or already occupied and no where for me to park out of the way to wait for them to open.



Hopefully will have an auxillary tank installed by the time we decide to do our next trip. New job the opportunity for some OT and can make some plans happen.


----------



## jbrostek

Chris I know you never made it by my site.  But my tank is a 45 gallon with tool box combo all aluminum.  Cost me around 700 and the gravity fill kit is another 70 bucks.  You can get up to 50 gallon with the tool box, but larger then that they go back to square tanks or the tanks start to get very tall.


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> Chris I know you never made it by my site.  But my tank is a 45 gallon with tool box combo all aluminum.  Cost me around 700 and the gravity fill kit is another 70 bucks.  You can get up to 50 gallon with the tool box, but larger then that they go back to square tanks or the tanks start to get very tall.



Saw yours when we were getting ready to leave, and I liked the way you tank and toolbox was set up. And well from our distance another 45 gal would be more than enough. Figured the numbers from this trip the other night and it cost us 350 bucks in fuel round trip this year. We were very happy with that number overall.


----------



## Barney Fife

I'm a big auxillary tank fan. I have one in my F350 with gravity feed as well. Its big but doesn't take up enough space to be a problem for the camper.


----------



## peg110

So how do I get an Aux tank that won't keep me from using my truck.... well.... as a truck? I get lumber, Coal, Gravel, etc.... and since I have the short bed (6.5 feet). Putting a tank in the bed or with a tool box (which could be useful) poses many concerns for me. Is it easy to take out (empty of course) if I need the space for something else or is it kind of a permanent install?

What about a tonneau or truck caps? How are they impacted? Is it possible to get an integrated under body tank to increase the capacity without spending a small fortune?


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> So how do I get an Aux tank that won't keep me from using my truck.... well.... as a truck? ...What about a tonneau or truck caps? How are they impacted?


Paul,

Here is a pic of mine. 60 gallons, no tool box, but I can slide lumber under and roll the tonneau closed if I need. We fab'd a mount out of some angle iron sitting around the race shop, but any metal shop could make something similar fairly cheap.






j


----------



## jbrostek

Chris - you are right, forgot about that.  It is a great little setup.  I have more then enough room for tow straps, cargo straps, washer fluid bottles, 2 hitches, jumper cables, and several clevises and other rigging pieces.   My fuel burn was about 360 round trip and I got home with 3/4 of a tank and have yet to fill it yet.

With a short bed you are going to lose space behind the hitch (if you have a 5th wheel.)  I have an 8' bed, but even for me when I have to load stuff it just either goes behind the tank or if its long enough on top of the tank and tailgate.   You could set it to be removable, mine would mean removing 4 bolts to get the toolbox combo out and come up with a good way to plug the gravity fill line.  They also make lower profile ones that stay below the bedrail so you can continue to use a tonneau if you wish.  Only downside of a cap is access to fill the tank.   If you want to expand the frame mounted tank, look into titan fuel tanks, but try not to get sticker shock.  For my 2012 F350 CC long bed its 1500 for the 50 gallon and 1700 for the 65 gallon.  A 50 gallon for a 2011-2016 Ford short bed is 1433.00 MSRP.

What I like about my setup was when I sold my 2006 and bought the 2012, I just transferred the tank over.   Not to mention the costs savings over the mid ship mounted tanks. If I had a titan, it would mean buying another tank for the new truck.

Getting creative like J did is another option, I used to have a tonneau that fit over the tank, then I went 3 years of it being rolled up so I decided not to buy one for this truck.


----------



## Barney Fife

You could always get a Titan tank. I had one three trucks ago. 

It replaces your stock tank with a larger capacity tank. I think I went from 35 gallons to around 60 gallons. But that's a lot of money for around 80% more fuel.


----------



## PaHunter

peg110 said:


> So how do I get an Aux tank that won't keep me from using my truck.... well.... as a truck? I get lumber, Coal, Gravel, etc.... and since I have the short bed (6.5 feet). Putting a tank in the bed or with a tool box (which could be useful) poses many concerns for me. Is it easy to take out (empty of course) if I need the space for something else or is it kind of a permanent install?
> 
> What about a tonneau or truck caps? How are they impacted? Is it possible to get an integrated under body tank to increase the capacity without spending a small fortune?



Paul, you my friend are out of luck as a gasser. I believe DOT will not allow gasoline to be used in Aux tanks. You would have to go with a replacement tank from Titan that replaces your stock tank with a larger one.


----------



## tltay2005

And my DH says our golf cart won't fit in the back of our truck.....he needs lessons from this guy!


----------



## Barney Fife

WOW


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I have a 93 gal auxiliary tank in my truck. It's gravity fed, but I am planning on installing a transfer pump wire to my up fitter switches. With both tanks I can make it from S. AL. to the Fort and back home but I'm running on fumes when I pull up in the driveway.


----------



## Teamubr

Anyone have trouble with the gravity feed on your auxiliary tank? 

Mine has a check ball fitting, but it sticks closed a lot. I went camping this past weekend. Put about 30 gallons in the auxiliary tank and it sucked about 15 out, but there is still 15 in it and the main tank is down to 1/2.

My race team mates truck had the opposite issue with his identical tank and valve. His wouldn't close. If he had a full main tank and anything in the auxiliary, it would come out of the filler if you took the fuel cap off the truck. Surprised him the first time it happened when he filled the auxiliary tank before the main tank.

I think I'll take the valve off and try to clean it out, but it's done this off and on since I put the tank in a few years ago.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I took the check ball off my tank, it works fine as far as draining the whole auxiliary tank but twice it has vented from in guess the truck tank vent. I have to do a oil change on it tomorrow so I was going to look around and see if I can rig up something so that I don't have to worry about it venting again. Not every one like the smell of diesel after it vented at the next guys campsite.... trust me.


----------



## tiggerdad

I keep mine open but I run a fuel pump to pull the diesel from the auxiliary to the main tank.  When I bought the truck the pump was already mounted and wired.  I just had to get the tank.  So I never close the valve.


----------



## Teamubr

Thanks Randy and Michael,

I may just drill out the check ball. I have a shut off valve at the tank that I can open and close too. I just leave it open all the time. It's the check ball valve at the adapter on the filler hose that is getting stuck. I drove about 400 miles total this weekend with 250 of it towing and only half of the auxiliary tank ran in. I parked the truck Sunday in the garage. Go out this morning to take it to work and the 15 remaining gallons decided to run into the main tank sometime between Sunday afternoon and today, while it just sat there. 

Annoying. 

j


----------



## jbrostek

J - I have not seen them get stuck closed.  I have heard about going out the filler neck, usually because the cap is bad or not tightened enough.   I did have an issue with it draining originally.  I had the wrong cap on the aux tank (non vented) and if the lower tank filled it would not start to drip again unless I relieved the pressure.  With a vented cap I do not seem to have that issue as often, but sometimes I just have to crack the aux tank cap 1/4 turn so there is some venting and it will drain out just fine.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

jbrostek said:


> I just have to crack the aux tank cap 1/4 turn so there is some venting and it will drain out just fine.



I do the same thing with my tank, I forgot to write that in my last post.


----------



## Teamubr

My talk has a vent at the top corner. It looks like a 90 degree barbed fitting. It will leak out of it if I get the tank really full. It's only a couple of minutes to take out the sleeve adapter with the hose fitting and check valve. I'll play with putting it in a different position to see if that makes a difference.

j


----------



## tltay2005

When you REALLY want a 5th wheel but can't afford one......make your own!


----------



## tiggerdad

What's even better is that there is a chain connecting the car to the truck in front of it.


----------



## tiggerdad

Okay, got a question for those of you running diesels.

In my old 2003 Super Duty all I ever ran in it was 15w-40 oil.  When I bought my 2013 it had heavy duty 10w-30 in it, which I believe is what is sent in it from the factory.  Last winter I had no noise on a cold startup (that was when it had the 10w-30 in it).  This winter, on relatively cold mornings, on startup I had a funny high pitch sound that would usually just last a few seconds and go away.  Warmer mornings meant less, if any at all noise.  Talking to a few guys they said if was the oil.  Said the newer engine with the 15w-40 doesn't get moving as well as the 10w-30.

Now, most people I talk to say if you're towing a lot, go with the 40 weight oil.  It was suggested I go with 5w-40 (which is listed as compatible) see if this doesn't eliminate the noise.

My question is, what do you guys run in yours?


----------



## dmaxphil

I've always been an Amsoil synthetic guy. Have always run 15w40 in my diesels with no problems. High pitched? Sure it's not a belt or something? Turbo whine?

I have a Duramax, fyi.


----------



## tiggerdad

Def not belt.  If I had the engine plugged in overnight then no noise.  This should not affect belts and it isn't that high pitched.

I've researched as best I could.  I'm with you Dmax, 15w40 all the way but I'll give the 5w40 a shot.  I had the Ford dealership keep it and look at it during a recent recall upgrade but of course no noise.


----------



## Teamubr

Michael,

Go with the Rotella/DelVac 5W40. Unfortunately all the 5W40 (at least around here) is synthetic and $$$, but I ran 15W40 in my truck for one oil change trying to save some money and the truck didn't like it. Slower to get going. Worse fuel mileage. Odd noises. 

5W40 is what came in mine from the factory (2011) and the filler cap says 5W40. The manual says 10W30 (normal usage) to 0F degrees, 15W40 is only good to 20 F degrees and use with bio-diesel, 5W40 for severe duty and bio-diesel at any temp range. And for the brave, 0W30/40 for any temp range, but not bio-diesel or severe duty.

Many of the newer engines (gasers too) have much tighter tolerances on bearings and rings. Many of the new cars run 0W30. Helps with mileage. The thicker oil, especially when cold, has a hard time getting through bearing clearances and rings. 

I'd run the 5W40. It's synthetic so it should handle the heat better and it should help with mpg over the thick stuff.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Appreciate it guys.  That's pretty much what I had been reading.

You still changing out the full synthetic 5w-40 at the same mileage?


----------



## sirenia88

Tiggerdad,

When did you get a diesel?  I thought your 2013 was was 6.2 gas like mine.   The gas models should be running 5w20 but there was recent switch to 5w30.  This is reported to have given the engine better wear and tear at higher mileage and extreme conditions (i.e. Towing)   I would have doubted the factory would have shipped 10W30 in a 6.2 engine.  5W20 would have been the case.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> You still changing out the full synthetic 5w-40 at the same mileage?


I change mine at 6-7000 not towing and 4-5000 if it's mostly towing miles. My non-tow miles are almost all highway cruising and not real hard on anything.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Alan,

No, it's the 6.7 Diesel.  After having pulled for years with the old 2003 diesel, I decided to stay in that market.  When you guys came by I had parked it in overflow to free up some space on the pad for decorations.

John,
Thanks, I usually stick to 5000 regardless.  Mainly the Brahma Bull (as my girls call it) is used for towing.  If I'm riding around town for usual chores or going to work I still drive my old 1997 tacoma 4x4.  Saves on the mileage on the big guy.


----------



## sirenia88

Hey Mike,



tiggerdad said:


> Alan,
> 
> No, it's the 6.7 Diesel.  After having pulled for years with the old 2003 diesel, I decided to stay in that market.  When you guys came by I had parked it in overflow to free up some space on the pad for decorations.



Yeah I remember you not parking on the pad due to the copious amount of decor at the site.  I do remember you driving by Vince the one night and then again it was night.   For some reason I thought you had the 6.2.  You got upgrade the turbo and fuel pump.  Practically an instant update to the 2016 spec.   The one ford forum had a discussion on the update some diesel shop in the midwest got it figured it out.


----------



## PaHunter

I switched over to 5W-40 before hauling our TT down to the Fort, I will be due for an oil change here shortly, and will most likely stay with it. Had no problems.


----------



## tiggerdad

Appreciate it


----------



## Flametamr

Okay friends. Today I located a 2001 Ford F250 Extended cab with the 7.3 Lt Diesel. Has 157,00 miles and comes ready to tow. It has the hitch rails already and air bags. Additionally it has an add on transmission cooler and a programmer on the dash. Looks good and has a clean car fax. The price is reasonable. Any thoughts ? What kind of mileage can I expect ?


----------



## Teamubr

Wow. Sounds like my old truck... Except I had 189,000 on mine when I traded it in 2008.

If by mileage, you mean mpg. My 7.3 had 4 in MBRP exhaust from turbo down, a 5 position chip with the top setting 150+HP, and some other mods for durability. It made "today" level power (400+/800+).

My truck was a crew cab, short bed, 2WD. Running at the 100HP boost setting, I got 16-17mpg not towing. I have a heavy foot and run 75-80 on the highway.

Towing my old 8000 lb 5er, I got 11 towing around 75. My new truck with the same 5er got 9.5-10. Taller, wider and heavier truck.

I loved my 02. Unfortunately it got electrical gremlins and DW didn't trust it after it stranded us twice. The last time on the side of I-75 heading to Daytona.

The 7.3 was a workhorse and many are still going with 2-300k on them.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Had 2003 model crew cab 7.3 & loved it.  It was 2WD with chip.  Not sure on its exact horsepower, truck got 16-17 mpg not towing and 12 mpg pulling travel trailer.  Had about 150,000 when I traded.

Loved it, good engine.


----------



## PaHunter




----------



## peg110

Hey now! I have a Ford and it does quite well! I can tow at least a trailer with a golf cart (well if you leave the batteries out!)


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> View attachment 157718


It was inevitable that it would have to begin.  Always gotta happen, but...


----------



## sirenia88

Tiggerdad,

It's Ok.  PA hunter needs a duelie diesel to tow an ultra trailer.   Claims he needs one for the "future" upgrade in trailers.  LOL


----------



## jbrostek

I started with a 1 ton SRW, but 15k trailer while towed ok really worked the truck.  Much happier with the dually and its gearing.  One day Chris may upgrade to a trailer like mine.....


----------



## Barney Fife

Flametamr. Fellow firefighter here as well (Raleigh).


Not knowing your budget makes this a tough call. If your budget dictates you want to stay around that year model, it sounds like a good deal. I had a 2001 7.3 and then got a 2005 6.0. Disneyworld was a huge reason I bought the 6.0. Like Teamubr, my 7.3 stranded me twice with bad cam sensors. The second time happened in July, 2005. We had our first ever Fort reservations for the following January and I'd had enough. So got the 7.3 fixed and went right to the dealership and bought a brand new 6.0. Selling the 2001 7.3 wasn't too hard. 

Most people don't like the 6.0. Mine was great. Had it four years and 51,000 miles. It did perfect and hauled our TT to the Fort twice with no problems at all. But many others haven't had the same experience. Ironic that my 6.0 was flawless and my 7.3 stranded me twice. I've had all four Ford diesels (7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and 6.7). The 7.3 was the least dependable but that's an oddity. 

A great thing about the 7.3. Maintain it well and keep it looking good. When you're ready to sell, it should be easy. Many, many people still want that engine. 

One last note. You'll really like the power. But don't drive a newer one until you're ready to buy. Its ridiculous how much more power they achieve with each new engine.


----------



## jbrostek

I have to agree, going from a 7.3, 6spd manual (even with a kill chip), to a 6.0 was a big jump in power but I still ran the 6.0 on a towing tune.  The 6.7 I don't even consider it needing a tune, its full of power and even after 3k miles since I picked it up in January, 2k of that towing the RV already I have yet to put DEF into it.  Though it is now reading under 1/2 tank so its close to time to drop a 2.5 gallon bottle into the tank.


----------



## Barney Fife

With heavy towing, I usually go 4500-5000 miles before DEF.


----------



## jbrostek

I have not filled it yet and not gotten to any mileage countdown, it just says less then half full.  My buddies towing company and a couple other 6.7 guys say wait a while as half full will only take 2 of the 2.5 gallon jug.


----------



## Flametamr

Okay so to update everyone. I decided to keep my truck for now and fix it up rather than buy an older one that may also have problems and go into real debt without a job. My current truck has an ongoing issues with vibrations. The brakes shudder when applied at highway speeds and it vibrates as it changes gears. So I dropped $450 to replace my front rotors and resurface the rear ones. After that I hooked up my small utility trailer to tow my bike down to Daytona and the front end felt like I had a loose wheel. Turns out the shop did not torgue the front hub nut. So I got that fixed and the wobble stopped but it still does the same thing. Shudders and vibrates when braking. The brake shop blamed it on my drive shaft. Of course I have the wonderful Ford one piece type you can't service. So I paid $700 to have a new one built and when I picked it up today the owner tells me to check it out that it still has a 60-70 mph vibration. Sure enough it does. So now I'm out real money and still have issues. Did I mention just for fun I have a spark plug coil going bad and the plugs have never been changed. It has 120,000 miles and everyone tells me one or two plugs are probably going to break off. Which is why I have this lawsuit letter from Ford. So I have new coil packs ordered and will probably let the dealer change the plugs. But I will still have the dang vibration. I need another job so I can buy the newer Eco-boost V-6 I want. Hopefully I will get the job I interviewed for last week. It's a firefighter position with a much smaller department in my area. The pay is less but my pension will make up the difference and the work load will be better.


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> I started with a 1 ton SRW, but 15k trailer while towed ok really worked the truck.  Much happier with the dually and its gearing.  One day Chris may upgrade to a trailer like mine.....



Hope to one day, looks like an upgrade will have to wait until my life gets organized again. But would love a bigger trailer.


----------



## PaHunter

Flametamr said:


> Okay so to update everyone. I decided to keep my truck for now and fix it up rather than buy an older one that may also have problems and go into real debt without a job. My current truck has an ongoing issues with vibrations. The brakes shudder when applied at highway speeds and it vibrates as it changes gears. So I dropped $450 to replace my front rotors and resurface the rear ones. After that I hooked up my small utility trailer to tow my bike down to Daytona and the front end felt like I had a loose wheel. Turns out the shop did not torgue the front hub nut. So I got that fixed and the wobble stopped but it still does the same thing. Shudders and vibrates when braking. The brake shop blamed it on my drive shaft. Of course I have the wonderful Ford one piece type you can't service. So I paid $700 to have a new one built and when I picked it up today the owner tells me to check it out that it still has a 60-70 mph vibration. Sure enough it does. So now I'm out real money and still have issues. Did I mention just for fun I have a spark plug coil going bad and the plugs have never been changed. It has 120,000 miles and everyone tells me one or two plugs are probably going to break off. Which is why I have this lawsuit letter from Ford. So I have new coil packs ordered and will probably let the dealer change the plugs. But I will still have the dang vibration. I need another job so I can buy the newer Eco-boost V-6 I want. Hopefully I will get the job I interviewed for last week. It's a firefighter position with a much smaller department in my area. The pay is less but my pension will make up the difference and the work load will be better.



Well best of luck to you with the job interview and will keep you in the prayers.


----------



## Flametamr

PaHunter said:


> Hope to one day, looks like an upgrade will have to wait until my life gets organized again. But would love a bigger trailer.



My thoughts exactly.


----------



## Barney Fife

Flametamr said:


> .... Hopefully I will get the job I interviewed for last week. It's a firefighter position with a much smaller department in my area. The pay is less but my pension will make up the difference and the work load will be better.



Best of luck to you. Hope it goes well.

I retire in 10.5 years. After that, I don't plan to pick up anything bigger than a garden hose. Biggest fire I'll fight is a campfire.


----------



## Flametamr

Barney Fife if my pension was better I promise you I would never work again and certainly not as a near entry level firefighter. I did 27 years between police and fire. Not counting my volunteer years and my time in the Army. This guy is tired and worn down. The only job I planned at this point in my life was driving a Monorail. That will have to wait if it ever happens.


----------



## dmaxphil

Flametamr said:


> Okay so to update everyone. I decided to keep my truck for now and fix it up rather than buy an older one that may also have problems and go into real debt without a job. My current truck has an ongoing issues with vibrations. The brakes shudder when applied at highway speeds and it vibrates as it changes gears. So I dropped $450 to replace my front rotors and resurface the rear ones. After that I hooked up my small utility trailer to tow my bike down to Daytona and the front end felt like I had a loose wheel. Turns out the shop did not torgue the front hub nut. So I got that fixed and the wobble stopped but it still does the same thing. Shudders and vibrates when braking. The brake shop blamed it on my drive shaft. Of course I have the wonderful Ford one piece type you can't service. So I paid $700 to have a new one built and when I picked it up today the owner tells me to check it out that it still has a 60-70 mph vibration. Sure enough it does. So now I'm out real money and still have issues. Did I mention just for fun I have a spark plug coil going bad and the plugs have never been changed. It has 120,000 miles and everyone tells me one or two plugs are probably going to break off. Which is why I have this lawsuit letter from Ford. So I have new coil packs ordered and will probably let the dealer change the plugs. But I will still have the dang vibration. I need another job so I can buy the newer Eco-boost V-6 I want. Hopefully I will get the job I interviewed for last week. It's a firefighter position with a much smaller department in my area. The pay is less but my pension will make up the difference and the work load will be better.



Just wanted to say, good luck!


----------



## Flametamr

Thanks Everyone. Things will workout and it will be okay. I feel confident I will get a job offer soon and besides I will be rolling into the Fort in two weeks so life ain't too bad. There's nothing 9 days at the Fort won't cure.


----------



## tiggerdad

Flametamr said:


> Thanks Everyone. Things will workout and it will be okay. I feel confident I will get a job offer soon and besides I will be rolling into the Fort in two weeks so life ain't too bad. There's nothing 9 days at the Fort won't cure.



This...


----------



## peg110

Flametamr said:


> I did 27 years between police and fire. Not counting my volunteer years and my time in the Army. This guy is tired and worn down. The only job I planned at this point in my life was driving a Monorail. That will have to wait if it ever happens.


Thank you for your service. As Police, as a Fire Fighter, and as a soldier. 

While I still have a while to get to retirement, I can still empathize with you. I too have done Police and Army (actually I was Police in the Army) as well as Emergency Services for about 15 years (as an EMT, but that was mostly all volunteer).

I work with computers now, and while the pay is okay, I do miss being Out and about doing more physical things, but the pay just isn't there (sadly). Still and all, I'd like to make to that monorail driver too, but probably still got another 20+ years to go before I can think about it. 

I hope things work out for you. My Ford F-250 is only a couple of years old, so no real issues yet, but I surely hope I don't get issues like you are describing. While I am fairly handy and could probably do a lot of the work myself, I don't really have a good location to do it, nor do I have the time. 

Good luck with the Job Interview. Hopefully if you get it they will see that you should be higher up then the near entry level. 

Once again, a Sincere thanks for your service (on multiple levels) to your country and community.


----------



## jaredjohn4

We made it.  About 22 hours straight through from northern Illinois, raging wind, rain, mist most of the way. Got here and set up before the rain hit here too.  Thanks for the info about the Flying J charge card, that made the many trips to the pump a lot easier.  The wind was so strong in southern Illinois in one point we ran about thirty miles in fifth gear.  Surprising, 1200 miles and 10.5 mpg. But the def! I topped off before we left Illinois.  Usually been adding every few months. At 900 miles the warning light came on. Working that big engine was hard on defy.  I'm at about 1/3 left, and am going to buy three boxes to try to get home.  I have a Jeep Cherokee with the small diesel and love it. 10,000 miles between def refills, not 900 like this trip.   The new truck and camper were a good team together. Might look into a bigger fuel tank though just to be safe and bring def with.

Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.....Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.....Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights....Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights

***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
Upgraded to
### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###
55 foot long when hooked up!


----------



## dmaxphil

Drink a beer for me.


----------



## tiggerdad

Bigger tank made it much better for me.  The extra 60 gallons allows me to make a non-stop run from Mississippi to the Fort (but doesn't help with bathroom breaks).


----------



## jbrostek

jaredjohn4 - why not fill your def on the way home next PFJ fuel stop?  The price per gallon is CHEAPER then the cost of most of the 2.5 gallon jugs.

As for larger tank, I definitely love that.  It does not solve bathroom breaks but if you can skip the more expensive states for fuel, it works out in the end saving you over time.

I generally can skip NC and SC which tend to be 10-20C a gallon higher then VA or GA.  And I never have to buy fuel in FL (unless its equal to or lower then GA.)


----------



## Maligator

We just bought a new (to us anyway, 2014) class A. I was stoked to find out it has an 80gal tank vs the 45gal tank we had in or class C. That should get me a few hundred miles further between stops now! I'm hoping between the added range and using the Good Sam card this time at Pilot/FJ we can save some fuel $$$.


----------



## PaHunter

Maligator said:


> We just bought a new (to us anyway, 2014) class A. I was stoked to find out it has an 80gal tank vs the 45gal tank we had in or class C. That should get me a few hundred miles further between stops now! I'm hoping between the added range and using the Good Sam card this time at Pilot/FJ we can save some fuel $$$.



Maligator, if you get the Pilot/Flying J charge card you get a bigger discount and it is off the cash price. When talking about a tank that big I would at least give it a thought.


----------



## jaredjohn4

We had a casualty on our trip.  Not sure how I'm going to get home!  Bobble Head Steamboat Mickey was my navigator.  The Florida heat has weakened his knees.  Right now he is in a great limbo position, but I think by the time we leave he will be resting flat and won't be able to point me in the right direction.  Must be a sign I can't leave.


Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.....Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.....Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights....Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights

***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
Upgraded to
### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###
55 foot long when hooked up!


----------



## peg110

jaredjohn4 said:


> We had a casualty on our trip.  Not sure how I'm going to get home!  Bobble Head Steamboat Mickey was my navigator.  The Florida heat has weakened his knees.  Right now he is in a great limbo position, but I think by the time we leave he will be resting flat and won't be able to point me in the right direction.  Must be a sign I can't leave.
> 
> View attachment 159038
> Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.....Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
> Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.....Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
> Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights....Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights
> Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights
> Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights
> 
> ***2008 Chevy Express Conversion Van / 2007 Coleman Bayside***
> Upgraded to
> ### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###
> 55 foot long when hooked up!


On the next "HOT" day (if you have any/many left), help him to a standing position then take him into a camper/rv. Maybe put him in  a fridge/cooler to help him stand again. 

While a limbo Mickey is kind of cool, he doesn't seem to bobble as well at that point.  

Poor Mickey.


----------



## jaredjohn4

Mickey finally laid down after a day at Typhoon Lagoon Thursday.  Now back here in Illinois, I think he will get a double knee replacement this week and be back in action soon, guiding me back to the land of sunshine.  We ran 2750 miles round trip at 10.5mpg running 70 when we could Traffic was thick Saturday from the Fort all the way to Illinois.

Nov 1975 FW 500 Loop 3 Nights.......Jun 1977 Off-Property 5 Nights.........Jul 1993 Off-Property 7 Nights
Jul 1995 Dixie Landings 7 Nights.......Jul 2003 FW 1400 Loop 7 Nights.......Jun 2006 DL Off-property 7 Nights
Jul 2006 FW 900 Loop 12 Nights.......Jul 2009 FW 1300 Loop 14 Nights......Mar 2010 DL Paradise Pier 8 Nights 
Mar 2011 FW 1300 Loop 11 Nights....Mar 2013 FW 1300 Loop 10 Nights.....Mar 2014 FW 1300 Loop 12 Nights 
Mar 2015 FW 1300 Loop 9 Nights 

 ### 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel MegaCab (Black on Black with Black) / 2016 Keystone Cougar 326RDS ###


----------



## PaHunter

Well the only good thing about the snow earlier this week was I got to run the truck in 4wd.  Really had not had a need before that.


----------



## peg110

PaHunter said:


> Well the only good thing about the snow earlier this week was I got to run the truck in 4wd.  Really had not had a need before that.


Might get another chance. They are calling for a possible 1 - 3 inches here in NEPA this weekend. 

Really... someone needs to figure out these seasons. 
They go Spring -> Summer -> Fall -> Winter.
NOT Spring -> Winter -> Summer -> Winter -> Spring -> Fall -> Summer -> Spring -> Winter. 

I think the only season that doesn't repeat (or at least not fully) is Fall. I say not fully because my Peach tree (as well as many others around the neighborhood) was growing nice blooms, but then it got cold again (some flurries) and they died. (although they didn't actually "Fall" yet).

I am afraid to plant my garden.... Just as they are starting get going, I fear it will snow on them.


----------



## tiggerdad

Let's talk tires.  The Michelin's I got on right now are 2012 LT 275/65/R20.  They are the original tires and still have about 8/32 tread, but now in the last year two of them have come apart.  The last one while I was towing the camper.

So, I'm looking into new ones.  What you guys (& gals) running?  I don't use off-road tread as I primarily tow and Street run it.  I kept my 97' Tacoma for the off-road stuff.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Let's talk tires. What you guys (& gals) running?


I've run Firestone Transforce HT on my last couple of trucks. Decent highway tread, quiet and cheaper than the other name brand tires. 40-50,000 miles on them.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> I've run Firestone Transforce HT on my last couple of trucks. Decent highway tread, quiet and cheaper than the other name brand tires. 40-50,000 miles on them.
> 
> j



I am running the same tire on my truck.


----------



## tiggerdad

Hmm, looked into them but not seeing them available in my tire size.  I see them up to an 18, but not a 20.


----------



## Teamubr

Are you running load range E tires? A few years ago a friend bought a GM truck (2500) with 20 inch wheels and then found out it cut his tow rating and GVWR by several thousand pounds. He bought a set of 18 inch wheels to put on when he was towing his Cardinal 5er. I'm not sure if it was a wheel limit or tire, but he wasn't happy about needing 2 sets of tires.

I told him he should have bought a Ford. 

***EDIT- I just checked the Firestone site. They make the Transforce HT in a 265-50-20E. NOt sure what size you are trying to matchup, but moving up or down a little on aspect ratio won't effect much. And even better, the Firestone web site says the 265/50-20E "Start at $160.99". Try to find a Goodyear, Michelin or Bridgestone for that.

j


----------



## Teamubr

Checked on the Firestone site again. 

Looks like both the AT (all terrain) and HT (highway tread) come in a number of 20 in rim sizes. 275/every aspect ration from 35-65/20.

These should work for you.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

I'll check it again when I get home from work.  Sure won't get Goodyear's for that price but current Michelin's have given 74,000 miles so hard to change.


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> Sure won't get Goodyear's for that price but current Michelin's have given 74,000 miles so hard to change.


 WOW..... 74,000 MILES! That's awesome. My F250 has LT275/65R20E OWL All-Terrain Tires on them (Not sure of the brand at this moment) and they are the STOCK tires. I am just about 30K miles. While I still have okay tread, it looks like I am going to need new tires in about a year. For me that's going to be about another 12-15K miles. 

Haven't had an issues with towing our previous TT (GVWR was about 7K). Took that to the fort once with the F250 (and once with our previous F150 and LT275/65R18 OWL All-Terrain tires) We have a new TT now. Haven't really had it out on the road for a true test drive yet. was just able to drive it home from the dealer (about 20 miles, no highway speeds).  

I have to admit, that my consideration of tires has not been a huge issue. I would usually just get a "Descent" (as determined by my tire guy) tire that wasn't going to break the bank. Now this thread is making me look more about tires. I just realized (while doing some searching for tires) that there is a difference between All-Season (which is usually what I get) and All-Terrain tires. My Tire Guy usually recommends the Kelly brand tire as being good but won't break the bank. 

I am a bit concerned though. I don't like to change 1 tire or even 2, at least with my truck. So when I go for tires, I have to get 4 of them. That's going to run me about a grand. The last truck ($150) I managed to get 4 tires for about $700 (plus a $70 rebate that I had to keep fighting them to get).

So now this thread is making me think more about my tires. If I could get 74K miles (or even 60K miles) out of my tires, I'd gladly pay the $1k (but it would probably be more like $1200.)


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> WOW..... 74,000 MILES! That's awesome. My consideration of tires has not been a huge issue. I would usually just get a "Descent" (as determined by my tire guy) tire that wasn't going to break the bank.
> 
> So now this thread is making me think more about my tires.


If your truck isn't too heavy (unlike my 8500 lb dually), getting 60-75,000 miles is very reasonable on a decent set of "truck" tires.

Tire discussions on the truck forums are like refillable mugs and pool hopping on here. Everybody is their own expert and things can go downhill quickly.

I'm with you though. I have a similar "tire guy". Jerry's in Edwardsville, if anyone is interested. He turned me on to the Firestones a long time ago. He said most of the local guys were running them on their service trucks and they didn't want to worry about them and didn't want to pay very much.

Cooper makes some good tires too. My current truck came with General tires from the factory. They are OK. I had maybe 40,000 miles on them and they were dead. Much better than the Pirelli Scorpions that came on my 08. They were horrible, would get stuck on level wet grass and were completely worn out at 25,000 miles. I replaced the Generals on my current truck with Firestones and I have 85,000 on the truck now, so 45,000 on the Firestones. I was looking at them the other day. They are probably 2/3rds gone.  Should be able to get 60,000 from them. That's probably with half of those miles towing REALLY heavy race trailers. (15,000 and 20,000 lbs).

It's hard to justify spending $250 per tire for a "big name brand" tire when I can get decent performance for $175.


> I have to get 4 of them. That's going to run me about a grand.


Try buying them 6 at a time. 

EDIT: I just went out and looked at the receipt in my truck for the tires. I paid $1068 for all 6 two years ago. Goodyears would have run me $1800 or so.

j


----------



## 2goofycampers

Thanks for this info, we are gonna need tires on the diesel soon. He has the Cooper tires on there now.


----------



## jbrostek

My area tire guru is a racer as well.  I usually call him first, tell him what my needs are and he will tell me best bet and if has the best prices.  He usually does for the truck as he is the local wholesale supply for the ambulance fleets in the area.


----------



## tiggerdad

Spoke to the local Firestone and they don't stock anything in the 275/65/R20 range.  Will have to order.  Best prices he was coming up with was some ToYos and Destination AT for around $1400 a set.

Another dealer was talking the Cooper tires in the same size as around $1400 a set, those being 60,000 mile warranty tires.

Would you believe that so far, locally, the Ford dealer is the cheapest with the same Michelin tires I currently have $280 a tire then a $120 mail in rebate.

Have another friend who runs a tire shop at a local truck stop looking into some pricing for me and says he'll get back with me.

Can consider changing the aspects of the tire some, but will wait and see what he has on pricing first.


----------



## sirenia88

I thought 17s and 18s were expensive.  i don't feel so bad see the 20 inch pricing.  When I got a set of 17s LT tires it was $800 on the F150.  We were going down to Disney in 2012 and I finally figured out why the truck and trailer had a funny feel to the tow for the first 20 or so miles.  I bought the truck it came with P  tires.  The door tag even called for LTs.  It was a minor over sight.   However it was good tow going down.

Now the 250 had 17s on the truck but they look too small.  So I found a set of 18 inch Lariat rims.  I got a set of Cooper's for them for around $ 900 OTD.  However, I will be changing them soon as I got 32K on them and they are just about wore out.  I can say I was pretty disappointed in them with regular rotation and care.  I had a set of Coopers before that lasted 50K which was acceptable.   BFGs will be on the list of the go to tire for the next set for the truck.


----------



## jbrostek

20" pricing was rough too.  Now I do more then just drive on the highway, so when it was time for tires on the told truck I went with the Nitto Terra Grappler.  The tire is load rated, has great snow/mud/grass traction, and where not too loud on the road (at least not over the sound of a 6.0 working at 1800 RPM.)  The tires where still above 8/32 after 45k miles, but you have to be diligent on rotating them.  I think I pad around 1200 for the set of 4.


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> I have a similar "tire guy". Jerry's in Edwardsville


Edwardsville where? (What state).  I have an "Edwardsville" where I live in PA.



sirenia88 said:


> Now the 250 had 17s on the truck but they look too small.


I would have to agree. 17s on a 250 seem small. Even 18s are a bit small. I'd rather pay for 16's though instead of the 20s.


----------



## tiggerdad

My 03' f-250 had 17" and they rode and hauled fine.  It was a 2WD so being lower to the ground wasn't an issue.  Sure miss those tire prices.

I'll stick with the 20's.  By the time I bought smaller rims I'd have bought two sets of tires.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Think you 20's are expensive, price my 19.5's on my 450. Cheapest prices I found was at the Ford dealer when I replaced my back 4 tires, only $1650 for them. I'm planning on replacing the front two tires this winter, I managed to get 60k out of the rear tires, I may have or not smoked them down a few times rubbing it in on my Duramax buddies.


----------



## tiggerdad

Dang

Thanks Randy.  Now I don't feel so bad.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Yup, so my goal is less burn outs and donuts in the future. Maybe I'll see 70k out of these tires.


----------



## tiggerdad

Use more Crisco on the tires when doing the burnouts.  I used to have a Geo Storm and that was about the only way I could make that poor little thing do a burnout.


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> Edwardsville where? (What state).  I have an "Edwardsville" where I live in PA.


I used to have friends that lived in Wilkes-Barre. They joked about it too. They live in NC on the Outer Banks now.

My Edwardsville is in Illinois. about 25 miles NE of St. Louis.

j


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> I used to have friends that lived in Wilkes-Barre. They joked about it too. They live in NC on the Outer Banks now.
> 
> My Edwardsville is in Illinois. about 25 miles NE of St. Louis.
> 
> j


I am really ready to move out of NEPA. The corruption in this area, the terrible roads, and the weather are just getting too much to take. I have often thought about NC as a possibility.


----------



## 4077

peg110 said:


> The corruption in this area



I agree that i deal a lot better with corruption in warm(ER) weather....


----------



## tiggerdad

4077 said:


> I agree that i deal a lot better with corruption in warm(ER) weather....


----------



## peg110

4077 said:


> I agree that i deal a lot better with corruption in warm(ER) weather....


Well, I suppose the grass is always greener.... 

......well, at least in warmer climates!


----------



## jbrostek

NEPA, philly metro area, DC metro area.  Many of us could use a move to somewhere less expensive and stressful.  When I can buy 99 acre for the cost of my 1/2 acre and still be 45 minutes from IT work.....it is very tempting.


----------



## FigmentIsTheBest

4077 said:


> I agree that i deal a lot better with corruption in warm(ER) weather....



So true...  South Eastern Louisiana.. All the warm and corruption a body will ever need. (Though I did not really care for having to cut the lawn ALL winter this year.) Still... it beat shoveling snow.

Back on topic. Anyone know of any truck tires for my 94 F250 7.3 Turbo Diesel that have closed lugs on the outer treads. They are a lot quieter and seem to be much smoother than open lugs. My old twin I-beam is very sensitive to tread wear. But I still would not trade this old truck for a new one. I like having no computers and it is just broken in at 105K miles; plus no EPA juice to worry about.


----------



## rideswithchrist

asking questions: especially before a 2300 mile trip-
What do y'all do to keep your pop up from bouncing all over? We know we need to play with the weight distribution, but my husband is not looking foward to towing it to Disney the way it bounces and sways. Will a sway bar fix that or what else should we look into? The tires are 35psi which totally surprised me and we thought about looking at swapping them first (they seem to squish even fully inflated)


----------



## bama_ed

rideswithchrist said:


> asking questions: especially before a 2300 mile trip-
> What do y'all do to keep your pop up from bouncing all over? We know we need to play with the weight distribution, but my husband is not looking foward to towing it to Disney the way it bounces and sways. Will a sway bar fix that or what else should we look into? The tires are 35psi which totally surprised me and we thought about looking at swapping them first (they seem to squish even fully inflated)



Popups shouldn't bounce or sway.

Your popup, if it doesn't have a slide, should have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR on a sticker on the camper required by law at time of construction) of something around 2,000# to 3,000# of which 10% of that or so should be the tongue weight (the downward pressure on the tow vehicle hitch).  That's 200# to 300# or so.

A popup with a propane tank or two and a battery up front should have that 10% by design up front.  Either that or you have too much weight behind the axle. 

When I tow my popup, I don't know it's back there other than the 2-3mpg I lose towing at 65-70mph.  I don't have to do anything special.  I have 2 propane tanks and a battery up front. 

I would recommend hitting the web about details about weighing your trailer and determining the tongue weight (a kitchen scale on the tongue jack along with knowing the GVWR will go a LONG way).  Until you know the "facts" of your unit, you're groping in the dark.

Bama Ed


----------



## rideswithchrist

bama_ed said:


> Popups shouldn't bounce or sway.
> 
> Your popup, if it doesn't have a slide, should have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR on a sticker on the camper required by law at time of construction) of something around 2,000# to 3,000# of which 10% of that or so should be the tongue weight (the downward pressure on the tow vehicle hitch).  That's 200# to 300# or so.
> 
> A popup with a propane tank or two and a battery up front should have that 10% by design up front.  Either that or you have too much weight behind the axle.
> 
> When I tow my popup, I don't know it's back there other than the 2-3mpg I lose towing at 65-70mph.  I don't have to do anything special.  I have 2 propane tanks and a battery up front.
> 
> I would recommend hitting the web about details about weighing your trailer and determining the tongue weight (a kitchen scale on the tongue jack along with knowing the GVWR will go a LONG way).  Until you know the "facts" of your unit, you're groping in the dark.
> 
> Bama Ed



Thanks Ed, that is a lot of great info to start with. We did have an empty propane tank and a full water tank so that may have made it rear heavy. We are having a hard time finding specs on it at all and the only thing on the side is the VIN that was hand written on the tag with one of the metal etch things. 
The title does say it is 2000# so we will do some researching on it for anything else. I came across the manual once and did not save it and now I can't find it.


----------



## bama_ed

rideswithchrist said:


> Thanks Ed, that is a lot of great info to start with. We did have an empty propane tank and a full water tank so that may have made it rear heavy. We are having a hard time finding specs on it at all and the only thing on the side is the VIN that was hand written on the tag with one of the metal etch things.
> The title does say it is 2000# so we will do some researching on it for anything else. I came across the manual once and did not save it and now I can't find it.



rideswithchrist,  I did come across this website with data on a 2008 model which is only 1 year off from yours.  I hope it is similar enough to yours.  Data on the 2007 model was not available.  It's a comparing-trailers page but the same model is on both sides.

http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/e...04&year1=2008&mfg1=3554&vehicle1=82304&go2=Go



So it looks like the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) is  1,985# and the Cargo Carrying Capacity is 1,015# which is the math for a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVRW) of 3,000#.  So yes, a full water tank and empty propane tanks could cause the bounce and sway (your trailer is trying to lean BACKWARDS as it rolls down the road) or it is very close to balanced evenly that the slightest bump could induce sway.

I had a similar issue taking my 3 bikes on the back of the Aliner to the Fort last month and back.  We had a bike frame on the BACK of the popup.  I tried to compensate with lots of weight inside the trailer as far forward as possible.  There were a couple times I got into a sway situation which can be handled by engaging the brake controller manually and moderating speed.

So your popup should definitely be hard to lift off the front wheel before you hook it up to the hitch.  Note above how the hitch/tongue weight of 188# is about 10% of the UVW.  That is the ratio you need to stay close to.  You CAN carry water in the H20 tank but you have to compensate with weight up front of the axle to keep a little downward force (about 10% of the towed weight) on the hitch.  It's a Moment Arm Equation (forgive me, I'm a Professional Engineer) and 100# 6 feet out from the axle is twice as nice as 100# that is 3 feet from the axle.  But you need enough downward force on the hitch to keep it always "leaning forward" or down, so to speak.  That's why knowing your tow weight and checking the force/weight under the front wheel/hitch is critical.

Hope this makes sense.

Bama Ed


----------



## peg110

bama_ed said:


> (forgive me, I'm a Professional Engineer)


I knew there was a reason I liked reading your posts. (I too have an engineering background but not a PE)


----------



## Flametamr

Okay I have some surprising test results to share. We just returned from a visit to the Fort on Sunday. Not sure I reported all the work I had done on my truck here so I will recap first. Prior to leaving my truck developed a miss in addition to other unrelated problems. The plugs were overdue to be changed so I opted to change the coil packs too. I installed Accel coil packs and left for the Fort towing my heavy camper a few days later. During the trip I seemed to averaged about 6-7 mpg towing. That was just going by the readout in the truck. I failed to do an actual test. This worried me so yesterday I did an actual test without towing and was very surprised with the results. My truck only used 4.52 gals in 96 miles. That is 21 mpg. I was shocked to put it mildly. Prior to this the best ever was 14/16 mpg.


----------



## tiggerdad

Is that the comparison of what your truck was saying your mpg were compared to what you actually calculated at the pump?

I keep meaning to figure an actual calculation of mpg at the pump and compare it to what the f-250 is saying I'm getting.


----------



## Flametamr

Yes Michael, The on board computer was reading around 18.5 mpg for an average. But the 21 mpg was actual results. I filled the truck to the top and drove almost 100 miles and refilled it. It only used 4.5 gals. Previously I had checked before and the best ever on the highway was around 16 mpg. For some unknown reason I didn't think calculate my towing results. It did seem low but probably was actually in the 6-8 range. Just wondering if I get a chip if it would help towing some.


----------



## rideswithchrist

bama_ed said:


> rideswithchrist,  I did come across this website with data on a 2008 model which is only 1 year off from yours.  I hope it is similar enough to yours.  Data on the 2007 model was not available.  It's a comparing-trailers page but the same model is on both sides.
> 
> http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/e...04&year1=2008&mfg1=3554&vehicle1=82304&go2=Go
> 
> View attachment 163200
> 
> So it looks like the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) is  1,985# and the Cargo Carrying Capacity is 1,015# which is the math for a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVRW) of 3,000#.  So yes, a full water tank and empty propane tanks could cause the bounce and sway (your trailer is trying to lean BACKWARDS as it rolls down the road) or it is very close to balanced evenly that the slightest bump could induce sway.
> 
> I had a similar issue taking my 3 bikes on the back of the Aliner to the Fort last month and back.  We had a bike frame on the BACK of the popup.  I tried to compensate with lots of weight inside the trailer as far forward as possible.  There were a couple times I got into a sway situation which can be handled by engaging the brake controller manually and moderating speed.
> 
> So your popup should definitely be hard to lift off the front wheel before you hook it up to the hitch.  Note above how the hitch/tongue weight of 188# is about 10% of the UVW.  That is the ratio you need to stay close to.  You CAN carry water in the H20 tank but you have to compensate with weight up front of the axle to keep a little downward force (about 10% of the towed weight) on the hitch.  It's a Moment Arm Equation (forgive me, I'm a Professional Engineer) and 100# 6 feet out from the axle is twice as nice as 100# that is 3 feet from the axle.  But you need enough downward force on the hitch to keep it always "leaning forward" or down, so to speak.  That's why knowing your tow weight and checking the force/weight under the front wheel/hitch is critical.
> 
> Hope this makes sense.
> 
> Bama Ed




Yes! That makes so much sense. Our little ol' Pup is actually a 1992, BUT that is the same weight that is listed on the title and those specs look the same (size wise) as ours so the math should work out. 
Awesome engineer speak there- nothing to forgive, thank you for sharing your amazing brain power with me! 
After we repair the sink (which I mean completely replace the sink and the wood it was on) we will take it for another trip adding more weight to the front. 
We also may need to get stiffer shocks on the TV as we have been noticing them getting worn, which I am sure causes extra bounce.


----------



## tltay2005

Out with the old...
 

In with the new....


----------



## Teamubr

Good looking truck Terri!

Congrats. 

j


----------



## jbrostek

Very nice, hope she serves you well.


----------



## Flametamr

You didn't want the cummins deisel that Nissan has ??


----------



## tltay2005

Flametamr said:


> You didn't want the cummins deisel that Nissan has ??



Oh my...that was such a decision for my DH. At first that is all he wanted.   He did so much research and talked to everyone from owners to mechanics.  He finally decided that for what we will be towing, the amount of times we will be towing and the distances we will be traveling, that at this time, the gas model was a better fit for us.  I have to admit, I am quite happy with the decision, the diesel was a lot more money!


----------



## tiggerdad

Man, for the first time in a long time I found diesel fuel at a truck stop here in Meridian cheaper than gas.  Diesel was $1.87 and gas was $1.95.

Haven't seen this in a long time.


----------



## rideswithchrist

That is a beautiful Titan! I always loved those trucks. I wanted an Armada, but hubs is a Chevy man so I have a Suburban, which I still love.


----------



## rideswithchrist

ugh...we have a leak in the Popup that resulted in a ton of mildew on the bench cushions. Apparently the seal at the back is no good and all the rain from these crazy Texas storms went right down. 
I guess we store it with a tarp now? I heard that's no good either because it needs to breathe.


----------



## peg110

rideswithchrist said:


> ugh...we have a leak in the Popup that resulted in a ton of mildew on the bench cushions. Apparently the seal at the back is no good and all the rain from these crazy Texas storms went right down.
> I guess we store it with a tarp now? I heard that's no good either because it needs to breathe.


So put some planks/boards/poles/etc... across the top so the tarp allows an air gap to allow it to breath. 

I have to say, though, I don't know how much breathing it really needs to do when it's "Collapsed" Typically the exterior is either metal or plastic/vinyl, and while it's ideal to allow the moisture to evaporate easily, I think it will take a long time to really do any damage from the condensation.


----------



## tiggerdad

I recommend putting a dehumidifier in the camper and leaving it running.  Most people don't realize that all campers "sweat" when the interior is cool and the outside is warmed up quickly by the morning sun.  I keep one running at all times in mine just to be sure.

This will help prevent mold.


----------



## bama_ed

RWC,

When I close up my popup I always put in a container of DampRid inside the door to absorb moisture that might still be inside (or get inside).  http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-...-Refillable-Moisture-Absorber-FG01K/100392067

This is essentially the same type of solution that tiggerdad recommended with a dehumidifier but his trailer is so HUGE (it has an East Wing to go with the West Wing  ) he uses a big appliance.  His reasons are valid though.  But with a small trailer like a popup you can use the DampRid.

I buy the tub than I can refill as the crystals absorb the water and turn to liquid.  Popups have some aspects that are unique to them.  Moisture can come from canvas or panels that have morning dew on them when you close up.  Coming back from the beach the air can be very humid when I close up.  Also, when I get home and unload the refridgerator, there is moisture inside always.  So I leave the door open when I close it up in the garage and the DampRid takes care of the moisture.  In cooler weather you might condensation on the inside of the canvas from people's breathing/sleeping overnight with the temperature differential across the canvas (don't laugh - it dripped on me one morning).

Obviously you need to get the seal fixed (and I've heard of people using a cover but putting an empty 5-gallon bucket upside down on the popup under it to create a good slant for snow/rain to drain off the cover).

I take the DampRid out when I go camping and empty out the liquid in the bottom of the tub that it has absorbed and set it aside while we camp.  But when we come home and store it, I top off the container and stick it inside the door again.  Of course if you packed up from camping in a big rain, sometimes it is worthwhile to pop the camper up in the driveway when you get home to get the canvas dry.  DampRid is good but common sense has a place too.

I'm glad you caught it when you did.  Cushions can be replaced.  Good luck!

Bama Ed


----------



## peg110

bama_ed said:


> Of course if you packed up from camping in a big rain, sometimes it is worthwhile to pop the camper up in the driveway when you get home to get the canvas dry. DampRid is good but common sense has a place too.


While my current camper is not a pop-up (no canvas) growing up we always had one with the canvas walls and ends. Regardless of what the weather was when we were out camping, before it got packed up for the season, we always aired/dried it out (usually for several days) before giving it the final pack up. Unfortunately we had no indoor/garage location to store it and it stayed outside in the weather all year round. We did not cover it up with anything, just basically made sure the seals weren't too worn (It was just simple weather stripping that you can buy at lowes or home depot) and closed it up and clamped the roof down. When we opened it back up for the next season, there was that "Canvas" smell to it, but we never had to replace the canvas and there was never any water damage inside. The top of the roof didn't look great because there were trees overhead where it parked and it showed signs of this. 

My parents had this camper for most of my childhood (as far as I know at least they had it when I was 2) and we used it almost every year up until I was about 17. They did keep it beyond that but really didn't use it much after that except for an occasional "Sleep Over" in the back yard.

I just assumed that most people would air/dry them out before packing up. I am not saying that it's not worthwhile  having a dehumidifier or DampRid (or similar), we just never did and really didn't have much of a problem. 



bama_ed said:


> DampRid is good but *common sense *has a place too.


I think that line says it all though. 

I don't think RWS's issue (of a leak) though could have been resolved with a dehumidifier or DampRid but it might have saved the cushions. Hope you get it taken care of and that it doesn't cost too much.


----------



## Cajun Rob




----------



## Cajun Rob

Tried to post a pic of my TV with all the mods I just finished installing but I cannot figure out how to get it to work correctly


----------



## bama_ed

Rob,

You need to have posted at least 10 message to be able to show pictures.  As of right now, your count is only 5.

Bama Ed


----------



## rideswithchrist

peg110 said:


> So put some planks/boards/poles/etc... across the top so the tarp allows an air gap to allow it to breath.
> 
> I have to say, though, I don't know how much breathing it really needs to do when it's "Collapsed" Typically the exterior is either metal or plastic/vinyl, and while it's ideal to allow the moisture to evaporate easily, I think it will take a long time to really do any damage from the condensation.



That is what I was wondering, how much more moisture can a tarp trap, but then again, I am new to PopUps



tiggerdad said:


> I recommend putting a dehumidifier in the camper and leaving it running.  Most people don't realize that all campers "sweat" when the interior is cool and the outside is warmed up quickly by the morning sun.  I keep one running at all times in mine just to be sure.
> 
> This will help prevent mold.



We may have to look into a small one during spring and fall when it is humid- in the summers here, we have limited humidity.



bama_ed said:


> RWC,
> 
> When I close up my popup I always put in a container of DampRid inside the door to absorb moisture that might still be inside (or get inside).  http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-...-Refillable-Moisture-Absorber-FG01K/100392067
> 
> This is essentially the same type of solution that tiggerdad recommended with a dehumidifier but his trailer is so HUGE (it has an East Wing to go with the West Wing  ) he uses a big appliance.  His reasons are valid though.  But with a small trailer like a popup you can use the DampRid.
> 
> I buy the tub than I can refill as the crystals absorb the water and turn to liquid.  Popups have some aspects that are unique to them.  Moisture can come from canvas or panels that have morning dew on them when you close up.  Coming back from the beach the air can be very humid when I close up.  Also, when I get home and unload the refridgerator, there is moisture inside always.  So I leave the door open when I close it up in the garage and the DampRid takes care of the moisture.  In cooler weather you might condensation on the inside of the canvas from people's breathing/sleeping overnight with the temperature differential across the canvas (don't laugh - it dripped on me one morning).
> 
> Obviously you need to get the seal fixed (and I've heard of people using a cover but putting an empty 5-gallon bucket upside down on the popup under it to create a good slant for snow/rain to drain off the cover).
> 
> I take the DampRid out when I go camping and empty out the liquid in the bottom of the tub that it has absorbed and set it aside while we camp.  But when we come home and store it, I top off the container and stick it inside the door again.  Of course if you packed up from camping in a big rain, sometimes it is worthwhile to pop the camper up in the driveway when you get home to get the canvas dry.  DampRid is good but common sense has a place too.
> 
> I'm glad you caught it when you did.  Cushions can be replaced.  Good luck!
> 
> Bama Ed



I grabbed on, but it was not the type that you pour out the water that collects. It was by Damprid, but more of a air freshener/dehumidifier.

Maybe we will toss 2 in there and see if that helps. The good things is we know how it is leaking, we just have to figure how to repair- the top does not overlap when it is closed like it should.

We made sure to let it fully dry out before we closed it, but we had like 2 weeks of rain and the first dry day we were able to pop it- it was mildewy.
The covers got washed and will be bleached and dyed- no biggie, but the cushions will likely need to be replaced, I don't know if we can bleach them.


$300, $300....we got this Pop for only $300. I have to remind myself that there will be issues and money spent but hey- it is still better than a tent.


----------



## Cajun Rob

bama_ed said:


> Rob,
> 
> You need to have posted at least 10 message to be able to show pictures.  As of right now, your count is only 5.
> 
> Bama Ed



Yeah thank you, that is what I figured after I tried. I have never been in a forum before with thus magic 10 requirement...lol oh well I won't be long now


----------



## rideswithchrist

I did the same thing!


----------



## tiggerdad

Cajun Rob said:


> Yeah thank you, that is what I figured after I tried. I have never been in a forum before with thus magic 10 requirement...lol oh well I won't be long now



Hey Rob,

What's your favorite color? (hint, hint...)


----------



## Cajun Rob

tiggerdad said:


> Hey Rob,
> 
> What's your favorite color? (hint, hint...)


  - I appreciate it...LOL.....Just for fun seeing your profile avatar....I have to go with 2 colors purple and gold !!! LOL


----------



## Cajun Rob

tiggerdad said:


> Hey Rob,
> 
> What's your favorite color? (hint, hint...)


 Hopefully it won't take to much longer before I get there


----------



## Cajun Rob

tiggerdad said:


> Hey Rob,
> 
> What's your favorite color? (hint, hint...)


 I think I only need one more post !!!!!


----------



## Cajun Rob

I thought that was it but it still is not letting add avatars, signature, or photos maybe I am doing something wrong


----------



## bama_ed

Cajun Rob said:


> I thought that was it but it still is not letting add avatars, signature, or photos maybe I am doing something wrong



Your avatar is up now.

For the pictures, there are two ways to do it.  The easiest is if you have the picture somewhere on your computer and use the "Upload a File" button at the bottom right of the post box.  (Please choose the full size image option once it updates).  Is that what you did?

Bama Ed


----------



## tiggerdad

Yep, avatar is up now.  "Upload a file" is for sure the easiest way to do it.


----------



## Cajun Rob

Yes finally got everything working correctly thank both of you for all the help....
Now I can actually post on things about the thread.

We just upgraded from our TT to the new 5er and almost doubled in weight so it called for some mods to the vehicle..TV is a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 diesel, it already has a full def delete and egr block off done ( or as I call it "letting the girl breathe" ) so the added power and torque, not to mention increased fuel mileage Is off the charts..I'm averaging 14 mpg when towing the new rig, with my heavy tow setting and I am getting 24 mpg when I have it set on street mode aND not towing anything..The latest add was the Firestone Air Bag system to the rear end. Man what a difference that made, I'll never own another pulling vehicle without again...Not a bad price and super easy to install. I have before and after install pics below,


Before bags above and after below


----------



## 2goofycampers

Wow what a difference! Frank has been wanting air bags for when we haul the GC on the truck. Our Anniversary is coming up, sounds like a good present. Can you guys point me to a good site to buy them at a good price?


----------



## tiggerdad

If you don't mind my asking, what did the airbags cost you?


----------



## Cajun Rob

2goofycampers said:


> Wow what a difference! Frank has been wanting air bags for when we haul the GC on the truck. Our Anniversary is coming up, sounds like a good present. Can you guys point me to a good site to buy them at a good price?



http://riderite.com/ ( theses are the bags I went with )

https://www.airliftcompany.com/

You can also search on Amazon and specify the vehicle type and find them there as well. 
Hope this info helps if y'all have any other questions let me know, glad to help.. Also I went with the 5,000 LB rated bags



tiggerdad said:


> If you don't mind my asking, what did the airbags cost you?



The two main companies that make very reputable products are Air Lift and Firestone... Both have very good reviews and are solid products. I personally went with the Firestone bags, from the reviews and videos I watched about the installation the Firestone were said to be easier to install ( The reviews were spot on, took me a little over 2 hours with basic wrenches and sockets, no drilling or welding needed. Also most of the local retailers around me carried the Firestone Ride Rite System. There are separate types of kits you can buy. Some are just the bags with a manual fill line, or on board compressor system, even hand free remote air operated compressors. I purchased the Firestone bags at a local vehicle accessory shop for $350, the price will vary a little depending on the kit and vehicle type. ( I think because of the sheer number of Ford Super Duty vs. other brands they are always a little higher I thing you may be able to find them on Amazon a little cheaper or you can go to the company's websites and they have dealer locators searches.  I put the manual lines in at first and just filled them at home before towing, but I am now looking at adding the Air Lift wireless Compressor system ( A little cheaper than the Firestone system)and yes both systems can interchange. I think the Air Lift compressor system is around $300 as well. There are kits where you can but it all in packages or pieces and add at later date. I posted the links to both sites above...Easily the best mod I put on the truck, it made a world of difference !!!! Hope this info helps if y'all have any other questions let me know, glad to help.. Also I went with the 5,000 LB rated bags


----------



## tiggerdad

Thank you sir.


----------



## Cajun Rob

No problem, what are you looking at putting them on?


----------



## sirenia88

Tiggerdad,

I got a set of airlift's in my F250.  Nice set I think the price was around $350 when I bought them and a friend put them in for me as part of some other work he did for me.  I had the airlift wireless compressor system in but I wound up ripping the system out after 2 failures.  Airlift was good with the replacement aspect but too much BS involved when it fails.  I wound up re working the air lines and no problems. I rarely put in more than 25-30 pounds in the bags for the heavy payload like landscaping materials like dirt or gravel.  The Firestone air bags also have a good rep out there on the market.


----------



## Cajun Rob

sirenia88 said:


> Tiggerdad,
> 
> I got a set of airlift's in my F250.  Nice set I think the price was around $350 when I bought them and a friend put them in for me as part of some other work he did for me.  I had the airlift wireless compressor system in but I wound up ripping the system out after 2 failures.  Airlift was good with the replacement aspect but too much BS involved when it fails.  I wound up re working the air lines and no problems. I rarely put in more than 25-30 pounds in the bags for the heavy payload like landscaping materials like dirt or gravel.  The Firestone air bags also have a good rep out there on the market.



Really, I normally run about 70 PSI in mine when pulling the rig.. I thought about dropping down to lower pressure to see how it rides, but at 70 PSI is where mine will ride at exact ride height with the trailer as it does without.. right at 41 1/2" from bottom of the fender well


----------



## sirenia88

You got a 5er, I'm running a bumper pull.  The last couple of times I ran the trailer, I only had 10-15 pounds in the bags.  I ran 15 down to the Fort last year.  If I adding thing more, I cannot tolerate the ride quality.  The only time I'll do more than 15 is when I need a generator, fuel and coolers in the back of the truck.  I air up to 20-25 and the truck is fine since there is a good amount of weight in the bed.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Looks like $350.00 or so for his 2500 Dodge diesel. Thanks.


----------



## mich1073

rideswithchrist said:


> That is what I was wondering, how much more moisture can a tarp trap, but then again, I am new to PopUps
> 
> 
> 
> We may have to look into a small one during spring and fall when it is humid- in the summers here, we have limited humidity.
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed on, but it was not the type that you pour out the water that collects. It was by Damprid, but more of a air freshener/dehumidifier.
> 
> Maybe we will toss 2 in there and see if that helps. The good things is we know how it is leaking, we just have to figure how to repair- the top does not overlap when it is closed like it should.
> 
> We made sure to let it fully dry out before we closed it, but we had like 2 weeks of rain and the first dry day we were able to pop it- it was mildewy.
> The covers got washed and will be bleached and dyed- no biggie, but the cushions will likely need to be replaced, I don't know if we can bleach them.
> 
> 
> $300, $300....we got this Pop for only $300. I have to remind myself that there will be issues and money spent but hey- it is still better than a tent.



Grapefruit Oil kills all mold too, so its good to run a diffuser with some in RVs from time to time. And it smells good 

I wanted a pop up just because I found the site http://www.thepopupprincess.com/ and love some of the remodels they have done. But I had my pick of my parents two old RVs when they got the huge monster toy hauler. So I kept the freebie, but had the buy a 350 to pull either...


----------



## mich1073

I ran across this today.... Does not look safe to me, but what do I know... 

http://fifthwheelst.com/automated-safety-hitch-system.html


----------



## rideswithchrist

mich1073 said:


> Grapefruit Oil kills all mold too, so its good to run a diffuser with some in RVs from time to time. And it smells good


Brilliant! We keep peppermint EO in there to keep the bugs and bees out, but I never thought about something for the mold! I love the Popup but the hubby will probably upgrade us to a TT in the next few years if he has his way


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Hey Rob, what model Sandpiper is that you have? We have a 2014 376BHOK, the last year that they did the white sides. 

I had Firestone air bags on my 02 F250, it made a difference in how it towed and handle. You will be glad you installed them.


----------



## rideswithchrist

haha! We found a quick fix! 
My husband wrapped a tie down around the back of the popup and cranked it down, overlapping the top seam. We added a bit of tape just for good measure- NO WATER LEAK! 
It is taaaaacky- but $300, it worked. We also put 2 things of Damp Rid in it.


----------



## tiggerdad

On a follow-up to the tire discussion earlier I ended going with the same Michelin tires that the truck had on it originally.  They are the 70,000 mile tires and if the last set is any indicator they should be good for the mileage.

I picked up the four, mounted, balanced, tax, and lifetime rotation for $1200.  Steep, I know, but I just prefer the longer life tire.

Thanks for the input.


----------



## dmaxphil

Re Airbags..  I went with the Air Lift system and at the time SDTruckSprings had the best price. Went with compressor and wireless control so ended up costing double.  Installation took me a full day with no help. Guessing it should be a 2-4 hour install for someone who's done it before.

Below is what I ordered.  Huge difference during towing, but 45-50psi seems to be my sweet spot.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/air-compressors/air-lift-air-compressors/wireless-air-72000
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...x5wMsQ&zenid=f265da355dbfd901f44b195459ed3aa9


----------



## sirenia88

tiggerdad said:


> On a follow-up to the tire discussion earlier I ended going with the same Michelin tires that the truck had on it originally.  They are the 70,000 mile tires and if the last set is any indicator they should be good for the mileage.
> 
> I picked up the four, mounted, balanced, tax, and lifetime rotation for $1200.  Steep, I know, but I just prefer the longer life tire.
> 
> Thanks for the input.



I just had a set of Firestones installed on the truck about a month ago.  So far so good.  My Cooper tires pretty much were down on the tread. My schedule was pretty busy.  A local Firestone dealer was able to offer me same day service.   I was $950 out the door for a set of Transforce A/Ts.  Nice looking tire with nice looking tread.



dmaxphil said:


> Re Airbags..  I went with the Air Lift system and at the time SDTruckSprings had the best price. Went with compressor and wireless control so ended up costing double.  Installation took me a full day with no help. Guessing it should be a 2-4 hour install for someone who's done it before.
> 
> Below is what I ordered.  Huge difference during towing, but 45-50psi seems to be my sweet spot.
> 
> http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/air-compressors/air-lift-air-compressors/wireless-air-72000
> http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...x5wMsQ&zenid=f265da355dbfd901f44b195459ed3aa9



I hope you had better luck than me with the air system.  I had the Wireless air system with the HD compressor.  First the compressor went out after 3 months.  Then a few month later the module went out.  Both were replaced by Air Lift.  However, the replacement module didn't sync up with the controller.  Never got time to speak with air lift, however when I did have time, I just ripped out the system.  I found using a Harbor Freight 5 and 1 vehicle pack worked so much better and was with me when I went on a trip to begin with. So the compressor is still mounted if I get an early day from work where I am not beat, I might try to get the system to work again.  But I am not holding my breath.


----------



## Cajun Rob

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Hey Rob, what model Sandpiper is that you have? We have a 2014 376BHOK, the last year that they did the white sides.
> 
> I had Firestone air bags on my 02 F250, it made a difference in how it towed and handle. You will be glad you installed them.




We have the 2016 376BHOK.... Love everything about it so far.


----------



## LianaP

In-laws have the new Cadillac SRX. Anybody else tow this? They have an Allegro bus. Had a Toyota RAV-4 and Toyota promised forever it would be towable but it never really worked out.


----------



## Teamubr

I don't know anyone towing a Caddy. I do know quite a few pulling a Toyota though. 

What kind of problems did they have?

j


----------



## Maligator

I recently camped near a guy towing a brand new Escalade four down behind his DP. It was a heck of a rig!


----------



## tltay2005

We did a test hook up to see how the new truck and trailer lined up.  Our main concern was having the golf cart in the bed.  But no problems there, we can hook up and leave the tail gate down, which will make hauling the golf cart in the bed work out great.  Only issue is this truck sits higher than our old one, so we will have to get a new drop shank for our weight distribution hitch.


----------



## peg110

Can you hook up WITH the tailgate down? That could be challenging. Not saying impossible, just challenging.


----------



## tltay2005

peg110 said:


> Can you hook up WITH the tailgate down? That could be challenging. Not saying impossible, just challenging.



Yes, we had the tail gate down when we hooked up. we were honestly surprised that we could do it. We're planning on having to remove it.


----------



## Teamubr

Nice little setup. That should tow really well. And I'm surprised you can get the tailgate down too. I never could on either of my TTs.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Not so much hooking up with tailgate down, but what about turning?  Just to be sure as turning put tailgate closer to jack.  I could hook my f-250 up with tailgate down, but could not turn hardly any.


----------



## peg110

I think these are some fair points.  Before you head out on your trip, you probably want to hook it up completely and take it for a drive around the block or so to make sure you can do exactly what you need to do. Nothing worse then trying to be on a timeline and have a huge wrench thrown into your plans. 

Hope it all works out though and that you have an awesome time.


----------



## tltay2005

tiggerdad said:


> Not so much hooking up with tailgate down, but what about turning?  Just to be sure as turning put tailgate closer to jack.  I could hook my f-250 up with tailgate down, but could not turn hardly any.



Husband took it around the block, so I am assuming it turned ok.  Will have to ask him tonight.  Good thought.


----------



## DJCPITTS

So much useful information and some funny stuff.. i can not wait to be able to show a picture of my tv and tt...  coming in 2017 lol


----------



## Teamubr

DJCPITTS said:


> i can not wait to be able to show a picture of my tv and tt...  coming in 2017 lol


What are you planning on?

j


----------



## DJCPITTS

Not to sure yet.  I really like the hybrid but than again i like the larger tt's too.  We will see what kind of truck the husband picks out and I will go with what i can tow.  Maybe ill get lucky and he will get a big enough truck so i can get a 5er lol. I need something that will fit the 4 of us and my 3 little pups.


----------



## peg110

Well, you can get a 5er for the 150/1500 series trucks, but it's not as big a 5er as you can get with a 350/3500 series especially the dually. 
We have looked at 5ers and the ones we like (besides being obnoxiously expensive) are still too heavy for my 250 SRW. Maybe someday though. Whatever you get, I hope you have an awesome time and enjoy it.


----------



## DJCPITTS

Thank you!  I will be happy with whatever i can get..as long as it fits us the pups and has ac!


----------



## PrincessShmoo

Hi, everyone!

Just starting some research in trailers and all, and I have a question:
what size truck would you recommend for hauling a Keystone Cougar lite? 
Shipping Weight 7135
Carrying Capacity 2865
Hitch 1285
Length 28' 11"
Height 11' 11"


----------



## peg110

Are you going to be carrying it to capacity? (10K pounds) 

The key is to find a vehicle that can tow the weight based on the specs. If you aren't going to tow to capacity, you can get a smaller vehicle, but I would advise NOT to do that because at some point you may want to get closer to capacity. Also many will advise to have a TV that can tow the entire GVWR of your TT PLUS 10% more. That way there is no issues.

I used to have an F-150 towing our Coachman Capri 27TBS which had a GVWR of just over 7K pounds. The F-150 had a Tow rating of 9,500 (the way it was equipped) and it towed it just fine. We did however, upgrade to the F-250 and it did a much better job towing it (and even better fuel economy). 

Is your TV going to be a commuter/Daily use vehicle too? For us, my Truck is also my daily vehicle. So buying the Diesel wasn't really ideal for me. If you are going to be doing a LOT of travel, I would say the diesel is worth it.  Dual rear wheels are probably not needed unless you are going to be looking at a 5er in the future, then I think it would be nice.

With your Hitch weight, I am thinking you are going to need to be in the 250/2500 or higher models. Even at a 10K GVWR you would be pushing the limits of the best equipped 150/1500 models.

Now to address my "Insecurities" (@bama_ed), I wasn't going to get a Ford. In fact when we were looking I refused to look at them. I was just NOT a big Ford fan at all. I was going to go with the Chevy 2500 but my DW convinced me that if I was going to make a good comparison, I had to be "honest" and check out Ford. I ended up choosing FORD for one reason. We needed a Crew Cab. My kids are too big for an "Extended" cab. While the major truck makers all had descent Crew Cabs, Fords just had sooooo much more room for the kids. If you have ever traveled any distance with kids who are cranky and uncomfortable, you know that it makes your ride miserable too. So it ended up being a no brainer. That said, I have been happy with my Ford F150 XLT and now my Ford F250 Lariat. I can say, however, that I did like the Chevy too except for the space in the back seat (compared to Ford). Both DW and I didn't care for the Dodge. Nothing specific, it just didn't "Do it" for us. 

Good luck in your journey.


----------



## PrincessShmoo

peg110 said:


> Are you going to be carrying it to capacity? (10K pounds)
> 
> The key is to find a vehicle that can tow the weight based on the specs. If you aren't going to tow to capacity, you can get a smaller vehicle, but I would advise NOT to do that because at some point you may want to get closer to capacity. Also many will advise to have a TV that can tow the entire GVWR of your TT PLUS 10% more. That way there is no issues.
> 
> I used to have an F-150 towing our Coachman Capri 27TBS which had a GVWR of just over 7K pounds. The F-150 had a Tow rating of 9,500 (the way it was equipped) and it towed it just fine. We did however, upgrade to the F-250 and it did a much better job towing it (and even better fuel economy).
> 
> Is your TV going to be a commuter/Daily use vehicle too? For us, my Truck is also my daily vehicle. So buying the Diesel wasn't really ideal for me. If you are going to be doing a LOT of travel, I would say the diesel is worth it.  Dual rear wheels are probably not needed unless you are going to be looking at a 5er in the future, then I think it would be nice.
> 
> With your Hitch weight, I am thinking you are going to need to be in the 250/2500 or higher models. Even at a 10K GVWR you would be pushing the limits of the best equipped 150/1500 models.
> 
> Now to address my "Insecurities" (@bama_ed), I wasn't going to get a Ford. In fact when we were looking I refused to look at them. I was just NOT a big Ford fan at all. I was going to go with the Chevy 2500 but my DW convinced me that if I was going to make a good comparison, I had to be "honest" and check out Ford. I ended up choosing FORD for one reason. We needed a Crew Cab. My kids are too big for an "Extended" cab. While the major truck makers all had descent Crew Cabs, Fords just had sooooo much more room for the kids. If you have ever traveled any distance with kids who are cranky and uncomfortable, you know that it makes your ride miserable too. So it ended up being a no brainer. That said, I have been happy with my Ford F150 XLT and now my Ford F250 Lariat. I can say, however, that I did like the Chevy too except for the space in the back seat (compared to Ford). Both DW and I didn't care for the Dodge. Nothing specific, it just didn't "Do it" for us.
> 
> Good luck in your journey.


Thanks for the questions.  I'll hand them off to my husband, for his research.  Right now, I think he's leaning toward a 250.  But we're not real sure about the actual vehicle we're towing yet.  That's mostly because we went looking at some fifth wheelers today and (of course) the dealer showed us something we hadn't researched yet. 

One question - "unless you are going to be looking at a 5er "  what's a 5er?


----------



## 2goofycampers

PrincessShmoo said:


> One question - "unless you are going to be looking at a 5er "  what's a 5er?


Another name for fifth wheel. My 2 cents. Get the camper and truck you want the first time. It gets expensive moving up. Been there done that.


----------



## Teamubr

PrincessShmoo said:


> Just starting some research in trailers and all, and I have a question:
> what size truck would you recommend for hauling a Keystone Cougar lite?
> Shipping Weight 7135
> Carrying Capacity 2865
> *Hitch 1285*



With the specs you posted, I'm guessing this is a 5th wheel. A travel trailer generally has a hitch weight about 10% of the trailer weight. I would expect a hitch weight around 700 lbs empty and up to about 1000 at the trailer limit.

Fifth wheels (5ers) run much more weight on the "pin" (hitch in the bed of the truck). Usually 15-20%.

If this is a 5th wheel and money isn't a big consideration, I'd go with a 3/4 ton pickup. (Ford F250, GM/Chevy/Dodge 2500). If it's a travel trailer (TT) that hooks to a hitch at the rear of the truck, I think any of the properly equipped 1/2 tons will do fine. This opens it up to bigger SUVs and Toyota and Nissan.

Why the difference between a TT and 5er? TTs are generally lower than a 5er and have less wind resistance. That resistance is a big strain on the tow vehicle. Also, 5ers usually have a lot more storage space and it's easier to load them up with more stuff. My 2nd trailer was a 33 ft TT. I only put about 6-700 lbs of stuff in it. I get well over 1000 lbs of junk (most I don't need) in my 5er because I can.

3/4 ton trucks are more expensive, but have several advantages. The first obvious one is they are heavier and built stronger... Literally from the frame up. The transmissions are also much stronger than a typical 1/2 ton. This help with longevity. IN a 3/4 ton, you also have the option of a diesel engine. Diesels are a lot more expensive. $6000 + for the Ford I think, but they tow incredibly well. Twice the torque of a gas engine. (Torque is what you want to pull heavy weights. It is what you feel when you accelerate despite all the marketing talking about horse power). They also get much better fuel mileage than a gas motor, especially when towing.

You know how you plan on using the trailer. If you are towing a lot and will use the truck a bunch, I'd go for a 3/4 ton diesel. It will be overkill for an 8500 lb 5er but it will do it with ease and pay for it self in reliability and resale (diesels typically resell very well)

If you won't be towing far or often, go for a 1/2 ton. Much cheaper and very capable for 8000 lbs. Put the money difference into options on the trailer or accessories.

For what it's worth, my 5th wheel I just traded in January after 13 years, weighed about 8-9000 lbs (same as where the Cougar will end up with you stuff in it.) I towed it all over the midwest and south with an F250 diesel. It was a great match. The truck was also my daily driver for much of the time. (Actually had 3 trucks in the 13 years- 2 F250s and my current F350 dually to tow a 20,000 lb race car trailer)



2goofycampers said:


> My 2 cents. Get the camper and truck you want the first time. It gets expensive moving up. Been there done that.


I'll second what Denise says! It took 3 trailers in 3 years to get the one I should have bought first. Kept that 3rd one for 13 years.

j


----------



## PrincessShmoo

Teamubr said:


> With the specs you posted, I'm guessing this is a 5th wheel. A travel trailer generally has a hitch weight about 10% of the trailer weight. I would expect a hitch weight around 700 lbs empty and up to about 1000 at the trailer limit.
> 
> Fifth wheels (5ers) run much more weight on the "pin" (hitch in the bed of the truck). Usually 15-20%.
> 
> If this is a 5th wheel and money isn't a big consideration, I'd go with a 3/4 ton pickup. (Ford F250, GM/Chevy/Dodge 2500). If it's a travel trailer (TT) that hooks to a hitch at the rear of the truck, I think any of the properly equipped 1/2 tons will do fine. This opens it up to bigger SUVs and Toyota and Nissan.
> 
> Why the difference between a TT and 5er? TTs are generally lower than a 5er and have less wind resistance. That resistance is a big strain on the tow vehicle. Also, 5ers usually have a lot more storage space and it's easier to load them up with more stuff. My 2nd trailer was a 33 ft TT. I only put about 6-700 lbs of stuff in it. I get well over 1000 lbs of junk (most I don't need) in my 5er because I can.
> 
> 3/4 ton trucks are more expensive, but have several advantages. The first obvious one is they are heavier and built stronger... Literally from the frame up. The transmissions are also much stronger than a typical 1/2 ton. This help with longevity. IN a 3/4 ton, you also have the option of a diesel engine. Diesels are a lot more expensive. $6000 + for the Ford I think, but they tow incredibly well. Twice the torque of a gas engine. (Torque is what you want to pull heavy weights. It is what you feel when you accelerate despite all the marketing talking about horse power). They also get much better fuel mileage than a gas motor, especially when towing.
> 
> You know how you plan on using the trailer. If you are towing a lot and will use the truck a bunch, I'd go for a 3/4 ton diesel. It will be overkill for an 8500 lb 5er but it will do it with ease and pay for it self in reliability and resale (diesels typically resell very well)
> 
> If you won't be towing far or often, go for a 1/2 ton. Much cheaper and very capable for 8000 lbs. Put the money difference into options on the trailer or accessories.
> 
> For what it's worth, my 5th wheel I just traded in January after 13 years, weighed about 8-9000 lbs (same as where the Cougar will end up with you stuff in it.) I towed it all over the midwest and south with an F250 diesel. It was a great match. The truck was also my daily driver for much of the time. (Actually had 3 trucks in the 13 years- 2 F250s and my current F350 dually to tow a 20,000 lb race car trailer)
> 
> 
> I'll second what Denise says! It took 3 trailers in 3 years to get the one I should have bought first. Kept that 3rd one for 13 years.
> 
> j


Thanks, everyone.  This is really great info.  Yes, it's a fifth wheel we're thinking of getting.


----------



## peg110

PrincessShmoo said:


> Thanks, everyone. This is really great info. Yes, it's a fifth wheel we're thinking of getting.


That explains it.... I thought the "Hitch Weight" you listed was "High" for a travel trailer. As Teamubr pointed out, 5er is short hand for a "Fifth Wheel" and generally speaking, even though it "Hitches" up with the Truck, it's generally referred to as a  "Pin Weight" on the 5er. Hitch weight is typically reserved for those that hook up to the hitch on (or rather near) the bumper.

There is often a significant difference in capacities of towing when comparing the towing from the Bumper versus towing from the "Pin" (in the bed of the truck) because of how and where the weight gets distributed. (The weight on a PIN in the Bed is generally right over the axle and is better supported).

I also agree that if you can get what you want (even though it may be more money) up front you are better off. The downside here is sometimes you don't know what you want until you have it. Sometimes you have something that you thought you wanted but find out.... maybe you don't need, like or want it. We are on our second TT, and this one has an oven. I was so excited, but now that we have it at home and I can better look at it, it doesn't impress me. Despite how large it looks on the outside, the useful space inside is limited. I might be able to make muffins in it. I think you can get more space out of a descent toaster oven. 

Anyway, good luck with the camper hunting.


----------



## jbrostek

Peg you pegged it.  On a standard TT you have to worry about Tounge weight and its limitations.  On a 5th wheel you have pin weight and that is based on you trucks cargo AND RAWR (Rear Axle Weight Rating.)   It is not uncommon to take 20-25% of the GVW of a 5th wheel as the pin weight.  My trailer is closer to 25-28% due to the front storage areas being larger then the rear.  

If you go look up the towing guides for what you are looking at truck wise and they can tell you more information on max 5th wheel.


----------



## tltay2005

Finally got around to seeing if our cart would fit in the bed of our new truck, and it does!  Fits great, the rear wheels are inside the bed, so we can remove the tail gate if needed.  Our only hick-up was that the rear seat foot rest scraped the ground, had to move truck forward down the slope of our driveway to load with out scraping.  Depending on the angle of the site , may have to make some adjustments in loading and unloading.  No biggie, just glad not to be making two trips to the fort anymore.


----------



## PrincessShmoo

peg110 said:


> and generally speaking, even though it "Hitches" up with the Truck, it's generally referred to as a "Pin Weight" on the 5er.


Well I just copied those specs directly from the Forest River website.  That's how they had it listed.


----------



## peg110

PrincessShmoo said:


> Well I just copied those specs directly from the Forest River website.  That's how they had it listed.


No worries. Technically speaking it's correct so you weren't wrong. Just gets confusing sometimes, which I am sure you already know, especially when talking about all the different "Weights". Combined..... Gross.... Combined Gross..... Registered..... Axle Weight.... Dry Weight.... Hitch, Tongue, Pin, and on and on and on....


----------



## peg110

jbrostek said:


> Peg you pegged it


----------



## tiggerdad

tltay2005 said:


> Finally got around to seeing if our cart would fit in the bed of our new truck, and it does!  Fits great, the rear wheels are inside the bed, so we can remove the tail gate if needed.  Our only hick-up was that the rear seat foot rest scraped the ground, had to move truck forward down the slope of our driveway to load with out scraping.  Depending on the angle of the site , may have to make some adjustments in loading and unloading.  No biggie, just glad not to be making two trips to the fort anymore.
> View attachment 177738


There are no angle to the sites for the most part.  I would suggest a simple fix such as 1-2 boards/blocks under the ramps to decrease the angle.  Something that thin could easily be slid under the golf cart once it was loaded.

The only places at FW to get any angle would mean driving your vehicle off the pavement in most cases.

This or something similar should help.


----------



## tltay2005

tiggerdad said:


> There are no angle to the sites for the most part.  I would suggest a simple fix such as 1-2 boards/blocks under the ramps to decrease the angle.  Something that thin could easily be slid under the golf cart once it was loaded.
> 
> The only places at FW to get any angle would mean driving your vehicle off the pavement in most cases.
> 
> This or something similar should help.



DH was saying we may have to load and unload in the overflow grassy area.  If all else fails, they foot rest can be removed.


----------



## tiggerdad

tltay2005 said:


> DH was saying we may have to load and unload in the overflow grassy area.  If all else fails, they foot rest can be removed.


If your footrest is like mine you should only need to remove two bolts and loosen two others to make it tilt up.  If this is the case then it shouldn't be too bad.


----------



## Teamubr

If I recall, I thought there were unhitch/unload areas with mounds you could back up to along the road between the Outpost (checkin) and the 4 way intersection. I see people in there unhitching toads, but thought I saw 3-4 ft tall grass mounds, I assumed for unloading stuff from the back of pickups.

j

Then again... maybe I was hallucinating.


----------



## tiggerdad

Unhook areas are available on the way in but no unloading mounds.

There is a mound of dirt to the left on the road leading to the maintenance shed, but they put a wooden fence around that a few years ago to keep people from using it as it was not intended for that reason.

Would be a good thing to provide however...


----------



## 2goofycampers

We have the same problem loading and unloading our GC. The sand definitely is better than the dirt/rock at home.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> There is a mound of dirt to the left on the road leading to the maintenance shed, but they put a wooden fence around that a few years ago to keep people from using it as it was not intended for that reason.


That may be what I remembered. It was off in the grass and I remember thinking it was odd to encourage people to drive into the grass. Probably why they put up the fence... Too many people were encouraged.

j


----------



## WDGPCFR

I have been planning a trip back to the Campground since we bought out TT two years ago.  My question is - I want to do a split between the campground and a resort.  What is the procedure for storing the camper while you are at the hotel?


----------



## peg110

The hotels have LARGE parking lots and can generally accommodate the parking of your TT. Usually, though it's in the BACK of the lot. You should still call the Resort directly, ahead of time, just to be sure.


----------



## peg110

The truck and camper. Not actually hooked together in this picture though. Just getting both ready for the upcoming trip. Less then 2 weeks away.


----------



## peg110

Came across this and I had to share it.


----------



## tiggerdad

Ha ha!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I guess if some one ask if your truck has a receiver hitch, the answer would be "sorta kinda". Haha! Good stuff!


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> Unhook areas are available on the way in but no unloading mounds.
> 
> There is a mound of dirt to the left on the road leading to the maintenance shed, but they put a wooden fence around that a few years ago to keep people from using it as it was not intended for that reason.
> 
> Would be a good thing to provide however...



Yes.  Here is the mound before the fence.


----------



## cdnSpinalTap

Cajun Rob said:


> Yes finally got everything working correctly thank both of you for all the help....
> Now I can actually post on things about the thread.
> 
> We just upgraded from our TT to the new 5er and almost doubled in weight so it called for some mods to the vehicle..TV is a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 diesel, it already has a full def delete and egr block off done ( or as I call it "letting the girl breathe" ) so the added power and torque, not to mention increased fuel mileage Is off the charts..I'm averaging 14 mpg when towing the new rig, with my heavy tow setting and I am getting 24 mpg when I have it set on street mode aND not towing anything..The latest add was the Firestone Air Bag system to the rear end. Man what a difference that made, I'll never own another pulling vehicle without again...Not a bad price and super easy to install. I have before and after install pics below,
> View attachment 167282
> 
> Before bags above and after below
> 
> View attachment 167281



Just curious (and not trying to be argumentative, as I tow a big 5'er and have always wondered this) - if that 5'er sunk down your springs that much, doesn't it technically mean that it might be too heavy for your truck?  And if it's too heavy, wouldn't it over spec the brakes, transmission, differential, etc?  I've always had a feeling that these air bags just mask a bigger problem.  Have you weighed the truck with the 5'er on to see if it's still within the GVRW?


----------



## peg110

cdnSpinalTap said:


> Just curious (and not trying to be argumentative, as I tow a big 5'er and have always wondered this) - if that 5'er sunk down your springs that much, doesn't it technically mean that it might be too heavy for your truck?  And if it's too heavy, wouldn't it over spec the brakes, transmission, differential, etc?  I've always had a feeling that these air bags just mask a bigger problem.  Have you weighed the truck with the 5'er on to see if it's still within the GVRW?


Interesting point you bring up. I might, however add, that a vehicle equipped with a hitch can tow a light load, but a wheel equipped with a WD hitch and electronic brake controller can typically tow more (safely). So couldn't the argument be made that Air Bags modify the original towing abilities? 

All that being said, typically the GVWR is based on the axles/wheels and what they can bare (as well as other factors possibly too), so I suspect that it's possible to have "Stock Shocks/Suspension" and tow a load within it's rating and get the sagging, but by adding the Air Bags you improve the Tow as well. (like a transmission cooler improves the towing ability but does little for the overall GVWR and towing capacities.)


----------



## jbrostek

Knowing the 2011-2012 specs pretty well since I bought my 2012 DRW.   I have a feeling he is probably within the GCWR, maybe even the GVWR.  But definitely at or likely over the RAWR on that rig.  And I used to the same with my current rig.  I had 350# to spare on my RAWR and that was before I had my spare 45gallon tank.  She could stop with the 5er on without issue, going was not as nice as the DRW due to the axle ratio, but she would roll just fine.


----------



## cdnSpinalTap

Thanks guys - great points.  I understand that modifications can improve tow-ability - add torque, level the truck out, cool the transmission, etc.  We live near and tow in the Rocky Mountains quite frequently so I tend to be hyper sensitive on the weight specs, especially with 3 kids in the truck and going down some major grades.  I've always taken GVWR at face value - the maximum operating mass of the vehicle - and sized my trailers and vehicles appropriately, without mods.

All that being said, I am sure that they build in some tolerances and modifications probably throw those numbers out the window.  And, to be honest, my understanding of vehicle engineering is extremely limited.  So again, all just for discussion and not to claim that I am right and everyone with air bags is wrong.

Here's a pic of my rig.  It's a one tonne and I have about 400# to spare on the GVWR when fully loaded with gas, occupants, a little water and a little waste.  You can definitely see some sag in the back, but being within specs I am not concerned about it.


----------



## jbrostek

I am not against air bags, I even considered running them on my old truck but opted for better shocks.  A friend put them on his dually, he is not over RAWR, GVWR, or GCWR.  But I agree with his trailer on his truck the ride is a LOT smoother.  Oddly though, his trailer on my 2012 and the ride is not as bad as his pre airbag. 

A 250 is close to a 350 in many aspects and I am big on weight ratings too.  I knew my old truck (thanks to the scales) was really close to maxed out.  New truck I can tell is not even close to the max and that is a good thing.  Plus its just so much of a nicer ride it makes the payment worth it.


----------



## Teamubr

cdnSpinalTap said:


> Just curious - if that 5'er sunk down your springs that much, doesn't it technically mean that it might be too heavy for your truck?


This makes complete sense, but with today's trucks the suspensions are tuned more for ride and comfort. The manufacturers know most trucks will never/rarely see weights close to max, so they soften up things to make it comfortable driving to the market or soccer game. There are overload or progressive rate springs to handle the advertised limits, but the trucks need to sag to get into the extra spring capacity. My new 5er has about a 2600 lb pin weight, even with my auxiliary tank full, I still have nearly 1000 lbs on my RAWR, but the truck squats down to sit just level.  

j


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> The manufacturers know most trucks will never/rarely see weights close to max, so they soften up things to make it comfortable driving to the market or soccer game.


My F150 had a looser suspension and rode great. It took bumps/holes in the road in stride and you rarely felt them. Add the Travel trailer on the bumper and you felt them much more.

I upgraded to an F250 2 years. First thing I noticed, is you felt those bumps MUCH MORE (unloaded). The suspension was tight and rigid. When you put a load on it though, it was like a dream. I picked up a ton of coal (on a pallet) and it sank the bed quite a bit, but the truck ran like a champ. I barely knew there was the weight there. 

I think in the case of my F150, you are correct. Most people who buy them don't typically tend to tow with them except for the fishing boat. When you move up to the Super/Heavy Duty vehicles, manufacturers tend to think you are going to do more "Work" stuff and probably adjust suspensions accordingly.


----------



## Nevaland

Seeing everyone else's awesome setups, I figured I would post ours.  I love seeing all the pics!!!  There are all kinds of sweet setups going to the Fort and I love to see them!!  Except the tire pics, but it reconfirms to me the importance of the TPMS we now have, acquired after having too much damage from tire blowouts than I prefer to remember!  Here we goooooooo......

Pulling into the Kingdom last Christmas




Our setup last Christmas


 Partial pic of tow vehicle - 2016 GMC Duramax setup at Charlotte Motor Speedway this past Memorial Day Weekend.


----------



## Teamubr

Great pics Nevaland and nice looking rig. You have me wondering how you got the pic of the back of your trailer waiting to get through the MK plaza. Of is that another Cedar Creek that just happened to be in front of you?

j


----------



## Nevaland

Teamubr said:


> Great pics Nevaland and nice looking rig. You have me wondering how you got the pic of the back of your trailer waiting to get through the MK plaza. Of is that another Cedar Creek that just happened to be in front of you?
> 
> j



Hahaha!! Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at) I have to many kids to fit all in my truck so we must take separate cars when camping. That's my wife's view following me all the way down from Massachusetts!!!  Thank you very much!


----------



## tltay2005

Well we finally got to tow a TT with our new truck yesterday.  We towed our Hideout to trade her in on our new Micro Lite.  The dealer was about 2 hours away.  DH said that towing the Hideout was like nothing was there, I can agree since I had to point out to him he was going 80 MPH several times!  We got good gas mileage going, 10.8 MPG, not so good coming home with the new trailer, 7.7 MPG.  DH said he could tell the TT was there, but the Titan XD pulled it with no problems.  Said it was definitely different being that the Micro Lite is about a foot taller and sits about 10 inches higher off the ground, which added almost 2 feet to the total height, is 5 feet longer, is about 1200 lbs heavier and has duel axles.  We also had a very strong head wind as storms we brewing all around us.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I had airbags on my F250 and it made a difference in the ride when towing, my F450 rides like well a tank there's no better way to put it, but when it's hooked to the camper it rides like a Cadillac, I have about the same pin weight as Jim, 2600#. In my opinion truck manufacturer needs to go to a full stock air ride suspension like commercial tractors. I know that there is more upkeep and cost, but the truck would always ride like a caddy loaded or empty, it would always sit level with a load/camper. I know that Ram has air assist suspension on the 3500 and 2500 and I believe full air ride on the half tons pick ups. I'm glad to see some is starting to do this and maybe it will catch on with everyone else. 

The other day I visited the Ford site and built a 2017 F450 to the same specs as my 2008, $85,000 later I decided I better take real go care of my 2008!, it's hard to fork out that kinda money on something that has a rough ride while empty. The new trucks are nice and have more bells and whistles and cameras than a nuclear power plant, but still has over a hundred year old technology for suspension. For that kinda off money I shouldn't have to invest more $$$ in aftermarket add on parts to get a better ride or to eliminate sag or squat when loaded. 

Like me and Tiggerdad has discussed several times, I'd be had pressed to buy another pick up, for less money a person could buy a used commercial tractor and never have to worry about towing power, stopping power or ride again, Gregg from RVHaulers.ca converts trucks to pull a camper, re registers the truck as a motorhome so no CDL or higher insurance rates. I've thought pretty hard about making the investment, but for now I'll stick to my old ford, it hasn't let me down yet, (knock on wood)

Just my opinion.


----------



## bama_ed

It's a sad day in the Bama Ed household.  

The original family tow vehicle, our 2005 Chrysler Town & Country mini-van (with factory installed tow package) will be leaving the family this week.  It was our TV for the first 6 years that we pulled our Jayco highwall pop-up.  After that the TV responsibility went to my new-to-me Suburban.

We actually bought it new in July 2004 and it has 211,000+ miles on it - we literally drove the wheels off it.  In its later years it was the car driven by the youngest kid to high school and back daily.  But it was prone lately to expensive repairs and it's to the point where it costs more to repair it than to say good bye.  My last kid started college and needed a dependable set of wheels and she's been taken care of.

I hated to drive it (and didn't) after its towing days but DW liked it so it had its place in our family.

But there is one thing about it I will miss.







Bama Ed


----------



## Teamubr

Awe Ed. I know how you feel. I typically drive my vehicles until they are dead. I just sold my loved BMW when I was in the Smokies. It only had 168,000 miles, but a $4 part failed and did $3000 worth of damage to the engine. Even if I did the work, it still wasn't worth fixing. It is going to a good home. One of the guys I raced with owns a BMW shop and was looking for a "customer loaner". He also wanted a mule test car with the newer N52 engine to "learn" on. He's going to drop a new engine in (actually cheaper than replacing the head and cams) during his down time. 

j


----------



## Flametamr

bjschil said:


> This is our haul as we leave today from a wonderful three week vacation.  Back to the frozen tundra fo tundra for us. We will return next year.  Our trip home will be slow and wise weather watching.View attachment 145095



I think you have the truck I want to consider buying. Can you tell me more about your truck. Such as weight limits and mileage normally and when towing ? Thanks


----------



## bjschil

Flametamr said:


> I think you have the truck I want to consider buying. Can you tell me more about your truck. Such as weight limits and mileage normally and when towing ? Thanks



I will do the best I can to give you the details.  Bill has been spending long days in the self-propelled JD Chopper chopping corn silage to to feed/store silage for the "girls" at our dairy farm for the winter/Spring/summer, till it repeats itself!  We have a 2015 Dodge 2500 Longhorn package  6.7 liter 16 Cummins Turbo Diesel with a 6 speed automatic RFE transmission, and has airbags.  Ours is a crew cab with the short box.  This has the  tow/haul feature which is nice going through Monteagle, etc.   This fact I know, as we just came home last week from "up north" camping trip to Door County, WI.  We get about 12 miles to the gallon pulling our 2016 3701 Sanibel, whose empty weight is 13,187#.  Bill will jump on board with hauling limits, but our previous truck and fifth wheels have been similar,  and have traveled to Yellowstonw NP,  and Colorado with no problem.  Over the road driving is about 17 miles per gallon. This is our RV truck, not a "useable farm truck"!!  Mama would be upset if it gets a musky farm smell!  Good luck on your search.


----------



## Flametamr

You answered enough of my questions to help. My Open Range only weighs 9000 lbs empty. Your truck wouldn't even strain pulling it. Only other questions I would have is it 2 wheel drive or four ? Does you have an add on tuner like Bully Dog and does your's have to use DEF ? Thanks for the help.


----------



## bjschil

Sorry, I missed a vital  answer. Yes, it is 4-wheel drive, and does use DEF.  When we pull to Florida, it seems to take more, or appears to go through at a faster rate.  Didn't drop at all going into the 5 1/2 hour drive to the tip of Door County and return home.   Obviously hills in Tennessee/Georgia.  We have learned to travel with two four gallon jugs, in case it is a stop that does not offer the sale of DEF.  do not know about Bully Dog!  But I am thinking we did not add this feature. That is an answer for Bill


----------



## Flametamr

Bully Dog is a performance tuner. A lot of diesel owners use them to optimize towing performance and mileage. You can basically re-tune the truck while rolling to suit what type of driving you are doing at the time. I have not used one but have friends that swear they are great.


----------



## Teamubr

Flametamr said:


> I have not used one but have friends that swear they are great.


I had one on one of my prior trucks. They really need to be used in combination with other mods to have the best effect and not risk doing bad things to the motor. My old tuner was a Bully Dog (there are many others out now) I was a 6 position switch. +40 HP to +250 HP. But I also had replaced the exhaust from the turbo back to handle the extra power. A different air box to manage the air flow in better and new injectors to keep up with the fuel needs. And I added some real gauges for EGT (exhaust gas temps- critical), boost pressure and oil pressure. 

Many of the newer tuners plug into the truck computer that is already monitoring those things and unless you want some serious HP boosts (> 150 HP) I don't think the injectors would be needed. My odl 2002 F250 with the 7.3 made around 260 HP and 535 lb/ft of torque. With all the mods, I was making just under 500 HP and nearly 1000 lb/ft of torque. As a comparison, the new Ford 6.7 makes 440HP and 840 lb/ft. That's why I haven't bothered to mod my truck... yet.

j


----------



## jaredjohn4

We did the major upgrade to a new 2015 Ram 2500 megacab diesel 4x4 and a 2016 Keystone Cougar 326rds fifth wheel.  In 2014 Ram went to coil springs in the back, even unloaded the truck rides fairly smooth.  Hooked on to the 37 ft fifth wheel, it goes down the road almost easier than my old conversion van and popup.  The new truck is also so much quieter inside than our old (2008) Chevy conversion van.  People new to diesel need to keep an eye on the DEF.  Just driving locally, I would add some every other month.  But pulling the load, running about 70, it went through it fast.  It was filled when I left home in northern Illinois.  About the Florida line I was adding a 2 1/2 gallon box so we could get to Disney.  We love the truck and camper hooked together.  We're planning our next spring break trip right now.


----------



## Teamubr

jaredjohn4 said:


> People new to diesel need to keep an eye on the DEF.  ...pulling the load, running about 70, it went through it fast.  It was filled when I left home in northern Illinois.  About the Florida line I was adding a 2 1/2 gallon box so we could get to Disney.


That's a lot of DEF. My F350 holds 5 gallons. I have to fill it about the same intervals I do oil changes- about 5,000 miles or so. Towing doesn't seem to use much more than driving solo.

j


----------



## jaredjohn4

We were a little shocked too.  We have a Grand Cherokee with the little V-6 diesel using def that usually makes it just about to it's 10,000 oil change.  We never really checked how much the truck went through when not towing because it didn't seem to use it hardly at all.  We had only had the camper about 3 weeks before we headed out, so we didn't know what to expect.  We grabbed a box near Atlanta just because I thought the gauge was going down fairly fast while towing.  It was nice to have when we hit the Florida line and it was getting pretty low.  I filled it up in Orlando, and we made it back to Illinois without adding any, but it was almost empty.  We'll see what happens this spring on the trip, but I'm bringing along a spare box just in case.


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> That's a lot of DEF. My F350 holds 5 gallons. I have to fill it about the same intervals I do oil changes- about 5,000 miles or so. Towing doesn't seem to use much more than driving solo.
> 
> j


This.

My f-250 uses about 5 gallons for every oil change which is at the 5,000 mile range.  Towing does increase it but not as drastically as some people had told me it would.  The Wal Mart DEF is $8 for 2.5 gallons, so $16 more every 5,000 miles is nothing and it is not an inconvenience at all.


----------



## PaHunter

Alright all my 5th wheel towing friends. Towing a 5er, upgrade to air ride pin box (trailer air) or not ?? Saw a product made by trailer saver, TS3, for the truck bed, anyone with experience ?? I see that the TS3 is very expensive. Looking to get my hitch in preparation for a trailer upgrade someday.....


----------



## peg110

Can't help you with the Air ride Pin box.... but I was looking at a truck upgrade. Thinking it's time to go diesel. Looks like Blue Book on my current truck is $10K - $15K above what I owe. Boy... I will have ponder this one.


----------



## PaHunter

peg110 said:


> Can't help you with the Air ride Pin box.... but I was looking at a truck upgrade. Thinking it's time to go diesel. Looks like Blue Book on my current truck is $10K - $15K above what I owe. Boy... I will have ponder this one.



Well 10K will cover the cost of the diesel engine.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Alright all my 5th wheel towing friends. Towing a 5er, upgrade to air ride pin box (trailer air) or not ??


We had an air ride hitch on the race team toy hauler. I didn't notice that it did much. My new trailer is the same size as the toy hauler, although it weighs about 2500 lbs less without a Miata in it. The new trailer has a regular solid pin box and I really can't tell any difference. I did try playing with the air pressure in the air ride "donut", but 5 lbs of air seemed to feel the same as 100. Personally, I wouldn't spend any money on anything extra until you bought a trailer and saw how it tows. 
Spend the money on a good hitch. Make sure you get one that allows a little rocking and has some cushioning in the mounts. Most of the better hitches do this.

j


----------



## peg110

PaHunter said:


> Well 10K will cover the cost of the diesel engine.


Yup... Thats my thought too.


----------



## 2goofycampers

peg110 said:


> Yup... Thats my thought too.


I've been looking at new diesel trucks. I can tell you Dodge seems to have the best prices. But they are still sky HIGH!


----------



## PaHunter

2goofycampers said:


> I've been looking at new diesel trucks. I can tell you Dodge seems to have the best prices. But they are still sky HIGH!



This is why we went the newer used route. We found one with low miles, and was only 2 years old. It was a challenge, but it saved us some money for sure.


----------



## tiggerdad

Agree with the newer used route for the truck.  Mine at the time was 2 years old as well and I got a fairly decent deal on it.

@SouthAlabama5er sent me a picture the other day where he just for fun used the Ford online site to build him a new F-450.  I think the total was around $80,000 and figured up around $1,100 a month in payment.  
Of course, his other vehicle is a Corvette and the Mrs. 5er rides in a Camaro, so there ya go...


----------



## 2goofycampers

PaHunter said:


> This is why we went the newer used route. We found one with low miles, and was only 2 years old. It was a challenge, but it saved us some money for sure.


So far the only used ones I can find are the same age/miles as ours.


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> @SouthAlabama5er sent me a picture the other day where he just for fun used the Ford online site to build him a new F-450.  I think the total was around $80,000 and figured up around $1,100 a month in payment.
> Of course, his other vehicle is a Corvette and the Mrs. 5er rides in a Camaro, so there ya go...



Well, SA5er has tons for Free Cash Flow to throw around on his vehicles since his fuel cost is essentially zero since he gets it right off the rig in deep water.  But come to think of it, he has been taking a rather LOW profile lately.  Where is that boy?

But blowing bucks on one's DW is always a smart move.  So he's smart in that respect.

Bama Ed

PS - His DW doesn't drive a convertible Camaro, does she?  Bright canary yellow?  That's my dream car (with the Vette engine)...


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> @SouthAlabama5er used the Ford online site to build him a new F-450.  I think the total was around $80,000


That's not too bad. I'm getting ready to order a $42,000 Ford Focus. And it would probably fit in the back of SA5er's F450. 



bama_ed said:


> blowing bucks on one's DW is always a smart move.


Yep! That's why I don't have my Mini anymore. 

I'm with everyone else though. Since I don't need to tow all over the country for the race team anymore, a nicely used dually should be just fine next time. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> Well, SA5er has tons for Free Cash Flow to throw around on his vehicles since his fuel cost is essentially zero since he gets it right off the rig in deep water.  But come to think of it, he has been taking a rather LOW profile lately.  Where is that boy?
> 
> But blowing bucks on one's DW is always a smart move.  So he's smart in that respect.
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - His DW doesn't drive a convertible Camaro, does she?  Bright canary yellow?  That's my dream car (with the Vette engine)...



He's been at work and he had a car show today showing off that Corvette and Camaro.  That's why he wasn't at the Alabama vs. Kent State game with me this morning.

P.S.  If any of you attend a Bama game and go by to visit Ed he cooks up a mean breakfast.  Chocolate chip pancakes and sausage.  @snowmedic , your syrup was a hit as well!


----------



## snowmedic

tiggerdad said:


> @snowmedic , your syrup was a hit as well!



Thought it would be.  Will have to see who is going in Feb. some I can bring more.


----------



## PaHunter

So one more question for all the diesel folks. Tuners or Programming modules, worth it ?? We all like better fuel mileage.


----------



## tiggerdad

Haven't invested in one yet.  I still have 20,000 miles of warranty left which most manufacturers will void in the presence of a tuner.

If any of you drive Ford check out Powerstrokehelp.com for some good videos and input.  They have a lot of videos on You Tube.  He is located in Atlanta.


----------



## dmaxphil

PaHunter said:


> So one more question for all the diesel folks. Tuners or Programming modules, worth it ?? We all like better fuel mileage.



My last Duramax had a tuner and exhaust upgrade. Definitely worth it in that case. Current truck is still under warranty, so not messing with it.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Ouch!! That too rich for my blood! I'm not paying more for a truck note than my house note. 

My truck has to go into the shop soon, the up pipes  (pipes from the exhaust manifold to the turbo) are leaking and makes a very strange whistles when it builds boost. I called Power Stroke Specialty and got a quote.... $2,500
Turns out the cab has to be removed to replace the leaking pipes. Still cheaper than the $3k quote I got from my local ford dealer, I'll pass. I have dealt with Bill and Dana at Power Stroke Specialty before and the guys know there stuff and do great work.


----------



## dmaxphil

And still cheaper than a new truck. My gosh - $80k for a truck. I think I'd buy a used Freightliner M2 Sportchassis if I had that budget.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Turns out the cab has to be removed to replace the leaking pipes.


Ya. That whole "cab off" thing started with this new motor. Seems a bit crazy, but my BMW was the same way. To replace a head, you had to remove the motor. It was less book hours to replace a motor than to do the head. (17 vs 27). Who designs this stuff. Chevy had a little turbo micro car 15 years back that required the engine to be pulled to replace the spark plugs. Needless to say, it had "lifetime" plugs.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

dmaxphil said:


> And still cheaper than a new truck. My gosh - $80k for a truck. I think I'd buy a used Freightliner M2 Sportchassis if I had that budget.



Funny you should mention that, Randy and I have discussed that option on several occasions.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

It may be older with a half a million miles or so, but it half the price of a new pick up and with Caterpillar engine towing power would never be a worry again. Whatcha think Bama_Ed, gotta like that Alabama red!


----------



## dmaxphil

This would be doable. Mercedes engine.. meh


----------



## bama_ed

SouthAlabama5er said:


> It may be older with a half a million miles or so, but it half the price of a new pick up and with Caterpillar engine towing power would never be a worry again. Whatcha think Bama_Ed, gotta like that Alabama red!



Big white swoosh A would look good on the side of that cab, wouldn't it, Randy?  Just sayin'.....

Bama Ed


----------



## PaHunter

bama_ed said:


> Big white swoosh A would look good on the side of that cab, wouldn't it, Randy?  Just sayin'.....
> 
> Bama Ed



Why would Randy want a Nike swoosh on the side of his truck ?? Is he a big runner ?? Tiger woods fan ??


----------



## tiggerdad

Tiger who?

He an LSU guy?


----------



## Flametamr

Well today has made me wish I could afford to make the diesel jump already. I took my 5'ver to the dealer in Louisiana to get a slide motor repaired under warranty before our trip to the Fort soon. Well on the way back my truck broke as I got off the interstate near home. I limped into a church lot and called a friend to come tow my camper the short distance home and roadside assistance towed the truck home. After fearing the worse like rear end or transmission I was relieved to find a burned up carrier bearing. I just had a whole new drive shaft built and installed before our last trip in April. I called the shop and they will rebuild it and try to find out why it failed so soon. I just thank the good lord it was not half way to the Fort when it failed. On a happy note I got a call to interview for a new job. It won't pay a lot but it's a great job for a small city. I'm interviewing for a a public safety officer at Dauphin Island AL. Working with the police running medical and fire calls on the island.


----------



## Teamubr

Flame,

Sorry to hear about the truck, but congrats on the job opportunity. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Hey Joe, hate that about the truck but glad to hear on the news about the job.  Hate we missed you this weekend.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Sorry to hear about your truck Joe, you said that you wanted a 3/4 ton, now is the time!


----------



## peg110

I'm with Randy... Time to "Upgrade" 

I don't mind to upgrade.... Just hate to pay the "Upgrade" price. 
It's even worse, though, when you upgrading as a necessity as opposed to a "Choice". Sounds like you are still in the "Choice" stage (for now). Still, I hope your current truck gets fixed soon and doesn't cost you a fortune.


----------



## Flametamr

Hate we missed y'all Michael. We actually were at Disney this weekend celebrating Emma's 11th birthday. We got a super cheap hotel and drove down Friday night as the Hurricane passed. The weather and the crowds were very nice. Are you guys already gone ? Sorry I meant to check your message on the dates.


----------



## Flametamr

Okay so the drive shaft was repaired under warranty.  I provided the labor to remove and reinstall it. So it cost me nothing but time. Turns out it was not balanced properly when they built it. I'm all good now.


----------



## Flametamr

I will post pictures later.


----------



## JETS70

Hey Joe.....glad everything worked out on your truck. Like my blowout last fall returning from our trip to the Fort, good that you were close to home. Hope to see you soon at the Fort.
Steve


----------



## jbrostek

I been a bit occupied since I got home from our last trip, work and life hit us hard this past month.   I lost my big fluffy dogchild Brandy Tuesday after labor day, she had heart failure.  But after some deeper dives into my blow out issue I found the E rated tires could not hold up to being only 600# under max GVWR.  So over the winter and before the next trip I am jumping to either G rated or F rated tires.  The F rated have my interest over price.  Both Carlisle Tires and Kenda tires seem to have great reviews and with an F weight rating is well higher then my GVWR on the trailer.  I guess the weight combined with the 90+F heat was the root cause of my issues even though the tires where not overloaded.

The truck has ran beautifully, and the only change I made since its last service is I got rid of the wheel weights and went with bead weights in the tires.  What I have noticed is that when I balenced the front tires after rotating them from the inside dual, they where smooth till I hitched up.  Then there was some unbalanced vibrations, but now with the bead in the tires, I hitched up and noticed no change.  The kit was cheap too.


----------



## tiggerdad

jbrostek said:


> I been a bit occupied since I got home from our last trip, work and life hit us hard this past month.   I lost my big fluffy dogchild Brandy Tuesday after labor day, she had heart failure.  But after some deeper dives into my blow out issue I found the E rated tires could not hold up to being only 600# under max GVWR.  So over the winter and before the next trip I am jumping to either G rated or F rated tires.  The F rated have my interest over price.  Both Carlisle Tires and Kenda tires seem to have great reviews and with an F weight rating is well higher then my GVWR on the trailer.  I guess the weight combined with the 90+F heat was the root cause of my issues even though the tires where not overloaded.
> 
> The truck has ran beautifully, and the only change I made since its last service is I got rid of the wheel weights and went with bead weights in the tires.  What I have noticed is that when I balenced the front tires after rotating them from the inside dual, they where smooth till I hitched up.  Then there was some unbalanced vibrations, but now with the bead in the tires, I hitched up and noticed no change.  The kit was cheap too.



Hate to hear about the pet family.  Ours of 16 years is having CHF as well and not doing good.

G rated huh?  What kinda price on those trailer tires?


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> I been a bit occupied since I got home from our last trip, work and life hit us hard this past month.   I lost my big fluffy dogchild Brandy Tuesday after labor day, she had heart failure.  But after some deeper dives into my blow out issue I found the E rated tires could not hold up to being only 600# under max GVWR.  So over the winter and before the next trip I am jumping to either G rated or F rated tires.  The F rated have my interest over price.  Both Carlisle Tires and Kenda tires seem to have great reviews and with an F weight rating is well higher then my GVWR on the trailer.  I guess the weight combined with the 90+F heat was the root cause of my issues even though the tires where not overloaded.
> 
> The truck has ran beautifully, and the only change I made since its last service is I got rid of the wheel weights and went with bead weights in the tires.  What I have noticed is that when I balenced the front tires after rotating them from the inside dual, they where smooth till I hitched up.  Then there was some unbalanced vibrations, but now with the bead in the tires, I hitched up and noticed no change.  The kit was cheap too.




First of all, welcome back. I think we have all been a bit busy. Sorry to hear about your dog. I know how much it sucks as I lost mine just a couple weeks ago. 
Looks like if we get a fifth wheel, a tire change is in store on the trailer.  DW is talking about making the leap up again and well would like a new unit before a trip to the Fort next year. If the stars align, maybe just maybe it can be pulled off.


----------



## Flametamr

One step closer to a new truck. Got hired today part time instead of full time. Another part timer moved up ahead of me. Work will be almost 50 miles round trip so unless I get full time or a lots of hours I still won't be able to get the new truck.


----------



## Teamubr

jbrostek said:


> over the winter and before the next trip I am jumping to either G rated or F rated tires.


Welcome back and sorry to hear about your 4 legged family member.

One word on going up to G rated tires. Make sure your wheels can take the extra pressure. We learned that on one of our race trailers. I'd suspect the trailer wheels are only rated to 80 psi. I doubt a trailer manufacturer would over buy the wheels if they didn't need to.

j


----------



## 2goofycampers

Sorry to hear about Brandy. Good luck with all your truck endeavors.


----------



## jbrostek

Thank you all.  It was a heck of a month.

Best we can tell the rims will be fine, the valve stems will need to be replaced based on my tire guys feedback after looking at one of the rims.  He says go with either, they are pretty equal build, but I like the kenda tread better, its pretty much like a steer/tractor trailer tire with inline ribs and no side ribs.  On the 26th or 27th she goes to the dealer to get the body damage repaired.  So this weekend some clean up, clean out and winterizing is on the agenda.


----------



## harleys mom

WE are on our was to Disney to stay this week!  I have a brand new Silverado and a Rockwood Ultra Light trailer. We are having problems that the tailgate is hitting the top of the jack when we lower while we are hooked up. Any suggestions? 
We will be in a pet loop with our two furry babies.


----------



## tiggerdad

harleys mom said:


> WE are on our was to Disney to stay this week!  I have a brand new Silverado and a Rockwood Ultra Light trailer. We are having problems that the tailgate is hitting the top of the jack when we lower while we are hooked up. Any suggestions?
> We will be in a pet loop with our two furry babies.


Tailgate hits while you are towing?  Is the tailgate down or is it hitting because the angle of the truck and trailer is so low?  Any chance for a picture and will be glad to help if we can.


----------



## peg110

harleys mom said:


> WE are on our was to Disney to stay this week!  I have a brand new Silverado and a Rockwood Ultra Light trailer. We are having problems that the tailgate is hitting the top of the jack when we lower while we are hooked up. Any suggestions?



I am assuming there is a reason why you are traveling with the Tailgate down?

I know my F-250, I can disconnect the cable that holds the tailgate down, I can then "Raise" it (slightly) so it's about 1/3 closed (raised at an angle) by hooking it on the "Locking Bolt". It will fit over it and hold the tailgate up about 1/3 of the way which should give you more clearance. I will say, though that you might need a hammer to tap it loose from that bolt when ready to put it back, as that bolt is a bit thicker and the cable, or rather the end that you put on the bolt, can get wedged a bit.

All this, again, depends on WHY you are driving with the Tailgate down.

Another possibility. If your hitch is like mine, it has 2 holes for the receiver. I can put the hitch in "Further" or leave it out a bit more. This has to do with the weight rating on the hitch. One way can handle more weight then the other. Anyway, I suspect your TT is probably lite enough that it wouldn't matter which one you use. Leaving the hitch out a bit more could help, IF your hitch is like this.

There is also the possibility of taking the tailgate off all together. This also depends on why your gate is down in the first place. (Holding the back wheels of a cart maybe?)

Anyway, I hope it all works out for you and you have an awesome trip.


----------



## tltay2005

Made our first trip towing the camper with the cart in the bed of the truck.  We did have to take the tail gate off, but it was fine.  We also had no issues unloading and loading at our site.


----------



## Barney Fife

jbrostek said:


> I been a bit occupied since I got home from our last trip, work and life hit us hard this past month.   I lost my big fluffy dogchild Brandy Tuesday after labor day, she had heart failure.  But after some deeper dives into my blow out issue I found the E rated tires could not hold up to being only 600# under max GVWR.  So over the winter and before the next trip I am jumping to either G rated or F rated tires.  The F rated have my interest over price.  Both Carlisle Tires and Kenda tires seem to have great reviews and with an F weight rating is well higher then my GVWR on the trailer.  I guess the weight combined with the 90+F heat was the root cause of my issues even though the tires where not overloaded.
> 
> The truck has ran beautifully, and the only change I made since its last service is I got rid of the wheel weights and went with bead weights in the tires.  What I have noticed is that when I balenced the front tires after rotating them from the inside dual, they where smooth till I hitched up.  Then there was some unbalanced vibrations, but now with the bead in the tires, I hitched up and noticed no change.  The kit was cheap too.



I know this is two weeks ago. But I just came in late.

G rated tires are great. I have G614s but those Sailuns are hard to beat for the price.

Make sure your rims are rated to handle the extra PSI.


----------



## jbrostek

Thanks, I checked the rims and looks like they are good for the higher pressures.


----------



## peg110

Okay.... Bringing it up again... Diesel or No Diesel? 

I just got back from our trip to the Fort. I averaged 6.7 MPG with the Gas-o-hog. 370 Gallons of fuel (this is round trip INCLUDING the bit of running around with the truck and not camper while we were there).

I was talking to a guy at the Pool (or rather Hot Tub) who says he gets 13 MPG with his diesel. Doesn't matter whether he is towing or not.  (I get about 11 MPG average when not towing).

Is it really worth the extra 8K (or so) for the Diesel engines?


----------



## dmaxphil

peg110 said:


> Okay.... Bringing it up again... Diesel or No Diesel?
> 
> I just got back from our trip to the Fort. I averaged 6.7 MPG with the Gas-o-hog. 370 Gallons of fuel (this is round trip INCLUDING the bit of running around with the truck and not camper while we were there).
> 
> I was talking to a guy at the Pool (or rather Hot Tub) who says he gets 13 MPG with his diesel. Doesn't matter whether he is towing or not.  (I get about 11 MPG average when not towing).
> 
> Is it really worth the extra 8K (or so) for the Diesel engines?



I pull approx 15k lbs and can get maybe 10 on flat road with the wind at my back   My old Duramax got 13-14 towing heavy loads. Don't believe everything people at the pool tell you. I can get 17-18 hwy when not towing. 12-13 mpg around town.  Only you can decide if it's worth it. Factor in DEF when running the numbers. Personally, I'm just more comfortable with the diesel when towing - lower rpms, perceived longevity, truck stop diesel lanes etc.


----------



## peg110

Do the new Diesels still use DEF? My brother (who drives an F-350 Diesel) says that the newer ones aren't required to have DEF any more. That's not to say he's right, I just don't know.


----------



## peg110

dmaxphil said:


> I pull approx 15k lbs and can get maybe 10 on flat road with the wind at my back


Oh yeah, and 10 MPG is still a whole lot better then 6.7 especially when you consider my bumper tow is probably about 10K lbs.


----------



## dmaxphil

peg110 said:


> Do the new Diesels still use DEF? My brother (who drives an F-350 Diesel) says that the newer ones aren't required to have DEF any more. That's not to say he's right, I just don't know.



Yep, still required. New Fords upgraded to a 7.5 gallon def tank, so you'll have a extra time between fill-ups.


----------



## tiggerdad

Required more than ever these days.


----------



## PaHunter

peg110 said:


> Oh yeah, and 10 MPG is still a whole lot better then 6.7 especially when you consider my bumper tow is probably about 10K lbs.



Yep, went thru that experience pretty much word for word. Is the diesel worth it, for us towing, yes it was. We ran around 11- 13 towing, trailer is around 8k, and have to remember I have it attached.


----------



## Teamubr

Paul,
Once you've towed any amount of time with a diesel, you'll never want to go back. Is it worth the $8000? From a pure financial stand point, you'd have to tow a lot to get to a break even point on fuel and longevity. From the peace of mind and pure pleasure compared to a gasser, that makes the break even a lot lower. I'd say if you tow at least once a month during camping season (March-October) and you go more than 100 miles or so each way, I'd really consider a diesel. If you make more than one long tow each season, you'll really appreciate it. If the $8000 will make a difference in getting a proper truck or not, go gas or consider looking for a clean used diesel. 

My older 5er was only 12 ft tall and weighed under 9000 lbs. Keeping the truck at 70 on the highway, I could get 11, but always above 10, unless it was really windy. The new trailer is 13+ ft tall and weighs over 14,000. I typically get 9.5 or so keeping it between 70-75. Wind is the biggest enemy when you get tall and wide. A 10-15 mph head or cross wind will drop me into the 8's. Still better than your 6.7.

j


----------



## peg110

I did get some "Quotes" (or rather "Estimates" at this point) on some new Trucks. At this point it's only been through a Ford dealership since that's what I have now. My biggest concern is that I need to keep my current payment AT or BELOW what I am currently at. Looking at KBB for values, my truck should have around $10K Positive equity (on the low end), but MAN are these new trucks expensive. I guess part of it is that I am spoiled now too. I have a Lariat which has a lot of bells and whistles that I like. (Absolutely LOVE my back up camera.) I don't need them all though, but they sure are nice. 

So their quotes brought the "estimate" of my trade down a lot lower than I was hoping. Partly because we had an accident a little over a year ago (We were rear-ended while stopped at a red light), and it came up in the carfax. Even though the truck is (and was) fine (Minor damage to my truck mostly to the hitch which has been fully repaired), it seems that I am taking a bigger hit then I even realized. Coupled that with the estimate on the truck is site - unseen. 

They even quoted me a Used 2015 Ford F-250 Platinum with 13K miles at $50K (after trade equity of about $7.5K).


----------



## parrothead64

Also, maintenance costs on a diesel are more as well, so factor that in.


----------



## PaHunter

peg110 said:


> I did get some "Quotes" (or rather "Estimates" at this point) on some new Trucks. At this point it's only been through a Ford dealership since that's what I have now. My biggest concern is that I need to keep my current payment AT or BELOW what I am currently at. Looking at KBB for values, my truck should have around $10K Positive equity (on the low end), but MAN are these new trucks expensive. I guess part of it is that I am spoiled now too. I have a Lariat which has a lot of bells and whistles that I like. (Absolutely LOVE my back up camera.) I don't need them all though, but they sure are nice.
> 
> So their quotes brought the "estimate" of my trade down a lot lower than I was hoping. Partly because we had an accident a little over a year ago (We were rear-ended while stopped at a red light), and it came up in the carfax. Even though the truck is (and was) fine (Minor damage to my truck mostly to the hitch which has been fully repaired), it seems that I am taking a bigger hit then I even realized. Coupled that with the estimate on the truck is site - unseen.
> 
> They even quoted me a Used 2015 Ford F-250 Platinum with 13K miles at $50K (after trade equity of about $7.5K).



Paul,

Locally all the dealers here lowballed my trade. We ended up getting our truck just outside Philly, got twice what local offered on trade. Dealer here in WB had almost the same truck, but would not even discuss the price, so we just walked. He kept wanting to sell me a new gasser, instead. 
Keep looking and you will find what you are looking for.


----------



## peg110

PaHunter said:


> Dealer here in WB had almost the same truck, but would not even discuss the price


If it's the one I am thinking of (up by the Casino), I can't say I am at all surprised.... Have heard nothing good about them.

It's easy for me to "Walk away" if the price is not right. My first truck, I felt I got a good deal (with some negotiation). Then when I went to "Upgrade" it from the 150 to the 250, I went back tot he same place. Different sales man and terrible offer. Finally I walked out. I don't think he expected that. Got a call the next day with a small drop in price but not near enough... Thanked him and said NO. 

I belong to USAA, and they have a "Car Buying" service. So I tried it. Found one that would work (Really it was more than I wanted) down your way... I made the drive. Eventually we focused on ANOTHER vehicle and for a good price but they had to get it transferred from another dealer. The long and short of it was they basically left me on the hook for awhile and I walked away and I let them know exactly why. If something is going to take a week or more, don't tell me it will be there tomorrow.. I hate that!

I ended up going to Gibbons Ford in Scranton Area. Found the right truck at the right price. Lots of discounts (even a "Student" discount because at the time I was going to college for an MBA) and I got a sprayed in bed liner for next to nothing. (I highly HIGHLY recommend the sprayed in bed liner too, but that's another post). So that's where I have started my search again. 

The best advice though, is that you have to be willing to walk away (as Alton Brown would say), and your patience will be rewarded (again as Alton would say.) It's tough to go car shopping with the DW as she sees it and wants it not thinking it might be available elsewhere for a better price. Oh well... The truck is my purchase (with her approval of course )


----------



## dmaxphil

$50k before or after trade difference?  $50k is a good price on that truck - $57.5, not so much. Around here (Houston) $45k should get you under 50k miles and 2014.  I just randomly picked this one. https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/

A year ago, I bought a 2015 Chevy 3500 LT diesel w/19k miles for $40k. Took a bunch of searching, but the right deal finally popped up.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/


----------



## peg110

dmaxphil said:


> $50k before or after trade difference?  $50k is a good price on that truck - $57.5, not so much. Around here (Houston) $45k should get you under 50k miles and 2014.  I just randomly picked this one. https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/
> 
> A year ago, I bought a 2015 Chevy 3500 LT diesel w/19k miles for $40k. Took a bunch of searching, but the right deal finally popped up.
> 
> https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/


$50K was after trade. It was the (estimate of) out the door pricing.

I was hoping to keep my cost (out the door) under $42K with my trade. (Trade is a 2014 F-250 Lariat Crew SRW Short bed, with sprayed in bed liner, running boards, Towing pkg and 20" wheels). KBB says (in "fair" condition) it should be between $32K and about $36K (as I recall) but I would say it's closer to the "Good" side. I guess I just have to go to the dealer and get a more firm number.

$42K (or less) will keep my payment at or less then where it's at now. That's my goal.


----------



## dmaxphil

peg110 said:


> $50K was after trade. It was the (estimate of) out the door pricing.
> 
> I was hoping to keep my cost (out the door) under $42K with my trade. (Trade is a 2014 F-250 Lariat Crew SRW Short bed, with sprayed in bed liner, running boards, Towing pkg and 20" wheels). KBB says (in "fair" condition) it should be between $32K and about $36K (as I recall) but I would say it's closer to the "Good" side. I guess I just have to go to the dealer and get a more firm number.
> 
> $42K (or less) will keep my payment at or less then where it's at now. That's my goal.



I'm confident you'll find something in that range. You may have to go 2013-2014. Or a newer XLT with your required options.


----------



## jbrostek

I started at 44k on my 2012 with 22k on the clock.  I got it down to 42k before we got into trade, etc.  I am happy with my purchase and love the DRW.  Over the summer I scored a cheap good running 2001 Focus 5 speed.  I use that now to run to and fro work and errands.  I take the truck out at least once a week for a good 30-60 mile one way shot when we are heading far out of town.


----------



## Teamubr

FWIW, there was conversation on the RS forums about Ford having 0% 84 month deal right now. Not sure what vehicles it applied to, but the Focus RS is very rare specialty vehicle and people were getting it on the RS. 

I wouldn't put too much into an offer/deal unless you are there in person and they can see your truck. They will low ball sight unseen. Sounds like you already learned the power of walking out on them. Patience will pay, but sometimes it's hard when you find what you want.

I was fortunate on my current truck. I was still a Ford contingency driver when I bought it. The racer program gave you very good x-plan pricing. My truck stickered for $60,400. I had worked it down to $52,000 and then said I was a Ford sponsored driver and gave them the x-plan number. I expected to save another $1000, at most. It came back $46,470.

j


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> I was fortunate on my current truck. I was still a Ford contingency driver when I bought it. The racer program gave you very good x-plan pricing. My truck stickered for $60,400. I had worked it down to $52,000 and then said I was a Ford sponsored driver and gave them the x-plan number. I expected to save another $1000, at most. It came back $46,470.


Hmm.... That's interesting. I also qualify for x-plan pricing but I got the impression that it really wasn't going to give me a whole lot. In the past I mentioned the x-plan pricing and they told me with that option, I loose all other discounts and can only get the x-plan pricing. What you are saying seems contrary to that. May be worth another look.


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> Hmm.... That's interesting. I also qualify for x-plan pricing but I got the impression that it really wasn't going to give me a whole lot. In the past I mentioned the x-plan pricing and they told me with that option, I loose all other discounts and can only get the x-plan pricing. What you are saying seems contrary to that. May be worth another look.


There are lots of x-plans. It depends on the details. Even company issued or employee plans vary quite a bit. Some do pretty well, others aren't any better than you could do on your own. It also depends on the vehicle and how much margin there is. Trucks have a lot of profit. At least $10,000 on the top F350s. Compact cars, not nearly as much. There used to be a site you could plug in the VIN and your x-plan number and it would tell you how much you'd pay, but couldn't find it the last time I bought. I'm not even going to try on my RS. I have a deal for MSRP, which is better than the $5000-$7500 ADM some dealers are trying to get. 

j


----------



## sirenia88

@peg110 

If you buy new factor in a full extended warranty coverage for the at least the life of the loan.  The new diesels are nice.  They have tons of power.  However, if you get a an out of warranty bill while making a payment, will always be what it is, an aggravation experience.  With that said,  the new Ford Super Dutys are nice.  The second gen 6.7s are making good power plus have a few other updates over the 1st gen. I eyeballed the one model they had on display at Hershey in September.  I told my wife if she wants the 5er I want the new truck.  She asked if the current truck could do it I said yes but I didn't spec a light 5er in the future at the time when we bought the current ride.  Don't take me the wrong way but if someone were to offer me a new Ford SD with a 6.7 who am I to say no LOL


----------



## 5stljayhawks

2016 F350 crew - AKA "Jolly green giant "- 6.7 D - stock.  pulling '35 8Klbs.  Have been over the pass and back like a hot knife through butter. Have a few 6% local grades, wow its amazing to turn a corner then hammer it up the hill.  Coming from 3/4 6.0 burb.. to 6.7 its night and day diff.  A lot easier drive.


----------



## Teamubr

Welcome to the club. I had a 7.3, 6.0 in the race hauler, a 6.4 and now this 6.7. This is, by far, the best stock diesel I've owned. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Recently tossed around the idea of trading in on a new dually. Prices are insane, but I knew that already.  Leaning towards keeping her.  Oh yea, I finally added a toolbox. I debated getting a fuelbox but decided not to mess with it. And wired new mirrors, so that's something.


----------



## Flametamr

I still haven't gotten a new truck yet. Still waiting on a full time job offer. But recently I missed out on a 2014 Dodge 1500 with the Ecodiesel. I'm not happy with it having def on there but the fuel mileage is insane for a truck and it more than will tow my camper. Unless I find a better deal on something else that's the truck I'm looking for now.


----------



## tiggerdad

Flametamr said:


> I still haven't gotten a new truck yet. Still waiting on a full time job offer. But recently I missed out on a 2014 Dodge 1500 with the Ecodiesel. I'm not happy with it having def on there but the fuel mileage is insane for a truck and it more than will tow my camper. Unless I find a better deal on something else that's the truck I'm looking for now.



Seriously would not worry about the DEF.  It uses so little and ends up being about $16 each oil change which is about how long the 5 gallons lasts for.  If you tow, then yes, a little more, but not that bad or expensive.


----------



## Flametamr

One of the reviews I read mentioned something about def consumption was about a gallon per 1000 miles. Does that sound about right ?


----------



## Teamubr

Flametamr said:


> One of the reviews I read mentioned something about def consumption was about a gallon per 1000 miles. Does that sound about right ?


That sounds about right. I'm with Tiggerdad. I use about a tank per oil change. I think my tank is around 5 gallons. It does seem to vary by season and how you are driving. And whether your DEF injector is working right.  Mine completely failed last summer. Threw CEL codes and the truck was only at about half power. $800 later, I had a new injector, full power and back to normal DEF usage. I had 96,000 miles on mine. It would have been covered under the 5 year/100,000 mile warranty, except the truck was 5 1/2 years old.

j


----------



## tabbytrekker

Umm... I feel weird posting here to ask this... lol.  Kind of on a whim this week, I bought/ordered a 2017 Winnebago trailer.  Then a couple days later, ended up buying a 2005 Ford F150.

I'm (31/F) still figuring out some things - luckily I have a few weeks to do so!  The trailer won't be here for six to eight weeks.

Anyone out there maybe willing to answer some likely silly questions about the truck and trailer and towing? 

Right now, the highest priority is I'm trying to figure out if I have a brake controller or if I need one.


----------



## PaHunter

tabbytrekker said:


> Umm... I feel weird posting here to ask this... lol.  Kind of on a whim this week, I bought/ordered a 2017 Winnebago trailer.  Then a couple days later, ended up buying a 2005 Ford F150.
> 
> I'm (31/F) still figuring out some things - luckily I have a few weeks to do so!  The trailer won't be here for six to eight weeks.
> 
> Anyone out there maybe willing to answer some likely silly questions about the truck and trailer and towing?
> 
> Right now, the highest priority is I'm trying to figure out if I have a brake controller or if I need one.



Well, some of us would be more likely to answer silly questions than others. No reason to feel weird. This is where we post things like this. 
If you have a brake controller it would be mounted on the drivers side, under the dash in reach of the driver. Black box usually about 4 inches by 8 inches long.


----------



## Teamubr

Tabby,

Weird posts are usually the best. Tell us more about what you bought. What model of Winny? That will let us know what other fun things you may want besides a brake controller. For example, if it's a bigger trailer, you will probably want/need a weight distribution hitch and sway control. These make towing a trailer much nicer. And for bigger trailers, safer.

Are you brand new to RVing or have you been doing this for awhile and decided to make the plunge for a truck and trailer?

As for a brake controller, Ford has been putting integrated brake controllers in their trucks with the tow package for a while. I know my 2008 F250 and my current F350 have them. If you have one from the factory, it will look like this:





It's just to the right of the steering column, above where your knee would hit the dash. If you don't have one, the dealer where you bought your trailer can install one. A decent brake controller is about $100 or so plus installation, but you will find some as cheap as $35 online.

j


----------



## sirenia88

tabbytrekker said:


> Umm... I feel weird posting here to ask this... lol.  Kind of on a whim this week, I bought/ordered a 2017 Winnebago trailer.  Then a couple days later, ended up buying a 2005 Ford F150.
> 
> I'm (31/F) still figuring out some things - luckily I have a few weeks to do so!  The trailer won't be here for six to eight weeks.
> 
> Anyone out there maybe willing to answer some likely silly questions about the truck and trailer and towing?
> 
> Right now, the highest priority is I'm trying to figure out if I have a brake controller or if I need one.




First question.  Did you spec out your truck prior to purchase?  Things like Tow package.  Transmission Cooler.  Gearing all make a difference in your towing experience.  With the case of the 2005 F150, you should have the 5.4  V8 and 3.73s for the rear end gearing at the least.  On top of that.  It would be wise to make sure your vehicle came with a tow package.  Usual clues would be the gearing, the hitch (2 inch receiver) with at least the 7 pin RV style plug.  AS for the brake controller, this could have been a factory option like @Teamubr  stated below.  If not, you should be able to find an aftermarket unit for around $100.  AS stated below, you can find cheaper but you get what you pay for.  YOu want a trailer brake controller that will work and be responsive when you are braking your trailer.

If you are completely unsure of what is going on with the truck, take the vehicle to a local trailer place.  A good and reputable trailer supply will have the brake controller, harnesses that may be required, and anything additional that may be required for your towing needs.  

 This is only the tip of the ice berg...




Teamubr said:


> Tabby,
> 
> Weird posts are usually the best. Tell us more about what you bought. What model of Winny? That will let us know what other fun things you may want besides a brake controller. For example, if it's a bigger trailer, you will probably want/need a weight distribution hitch and sway control. These make towing a trailer much nicer. And for bigger trailers, safer.
> 
> Are you brand new to RVing or have you been doing this for awhile and decided to make the plunge for a truck and trailer?
> 
> As for a brake controller, Ford has been putting integrated brake controllers in their trucks with the tow package for a while. I know my 2008 F250 and my current F350 have them. If you have one from the factory, it will look like this:
> 
> It's just to the right of the steering column, above where your knee would hit the dash. If you don't have one, the dealer where you bought your trailer can install one. A decent brake controller is about $100 or so plus installation, but you will find some as cheap as $35 online.
> j



Excellent point.  A WDH is a strong possibility for an F150 1/2 ton.  Unless this trailer is super light and under 4000 pounds, a WDH is going to be needed.  Going back to the B control.  I think Ford made that standard on the super duties in 2005.  I think it is still an option in the F150s to this day.  Then again, I have't  speced out a F150 in  a while.  It may be part of the towing package.  However, Teconsha (sp?) has been a solid choice for a controller.  I had one in my 99 F150 and in my 05 Explorer.   It definitely did the job with any trailer I towed with.  The company vehicles at work have the same brand except the boss's rides got the upgrade models, Primus IQ.   The 99 F150 I had needed the factory pig tail harness to make work.


----------



## tiggerdad

Oh we like silly around here

The brake controller will look similar to what Teamubr posted though it can be located just above the right knee as in his picture or it may be located just below the radio depending on the options.

Check the rear of the truck near the receiver hitch and look for the hook-up for the lights.  Is it a round (7 pin) or is it flat (4 pin)?

To be honest, when pulling something like a camper I recommend a weight distribution hitch no matter the truck.  The decision here will be which one as they come in different weight tolerances so knowing your campers weight is very important and will be posted on the camper.  Sometimes on the driver's side near front, sometimes on the entry door, but usually just knowing the model will get you a good idea with a simple search.


----------



## Flametamr

I'm almost certain unless it was added her truck will not have a brake controller. The good news is it is easy to add. The wiring harness is probably there and she will have to buy a controller and have it installed. Hopefully she already has the 7 way plug and it's fully wired with power for the brakes. I have a 2004 and used a Weight Distribution Hitch with my Keystone Bullet bumper pull. Tabbytrekker have you ever towed a camper ? Do you know how to use the trailer brake properly when going down hills and such to keep from loosing control of the trailer ? If not you're gonna need some training. You'll have to learn everything quickly to have a safe experience. Other than that I love going camping.


----------



## tabbytrekker

*Hi all!  

Oh you all are so great!!  Thank you so much for the replies!*

Sorry, I've just been getting a lot of flack from a friend, because he knows I am not a car girl at all, so he thinks I'm completely over my head with just the truck.  But I have until December to learn about my truck and my trailer and how to tow them.  December is when I'm doing a solo camping trip at Disney World. 

Originally I planned to just tent camp.  (I have a full-hook up site reserved).  But... I would browse trailer sites occasionally, not seriously considering them.  Just something fun to look at.  Then a week ago, driving back from a short day trip to Shipshawana with my mom, I was browsing trailers on my phone... and turned out the city I live near was having their Travel and RV Show.  So my mom and I stopped by on a whim.  I got to see the trailer I really liked online in person.  It was just perfect for what I need, and so I ended talking to a sales guy!  Financing came though on Tuesday, so it was ordered either Tuesday or Wednesday - should be ready in six to eight weeks.

It's a *2017 Winnebago Winnie Drop 170K*.  One reason I got that one was because it's pretty light, around 2800 lbs.  So my 2002 Ford Escape should be able to pull it.  (The Escape does have a tow package)  But since I absolutely love my Ford Escape, I didn't want to put too much strain on it. 

That turned into looking at Ford trucks.  I was originally just planning on just looking at trucks for now.  I did a search online.  Created a spreadsheet comparing different ones available.  So I took the afternoon off on Thursday to just go out and look at them - knowing I had no major rush to buy one until I found the perfect one, especially since my Escape should be able to pull the trailer.  It turned out the perfect truck was the second one I looked at.   So my bank account really hurts at the moment! haha. 

Now that I've had a couple of days to get to know the truck, I can give you better specifics on it!

The truck is a 2005 Ford F150 FX4 with the 5.4L V8 Triton engine.  90,000 miles.  Great shape.  Four-wheel drive.  18 inch wheels.  *Does have a tow package;* so it has the plug for the trailer, and a hitch.  It also has at least the radiator cooler thing.  After searching the truck, it doesn't look like it has a brake controller; but there are two small holes where you all told me the brake controller should be, so I'm guessing it used to have a not-installed by Ford brake controller, but probably when the owner traded it in to the dealership, they took it out.  The truck also has this weird thing installed... Evolution by Edge Products.  I read the manual last night, and it looks like its for being able to program the truck?  Unless I learn a lot more about it, and cars, I highly doubt I'm ever going to even try to program the truck! I don't want to break it!

What other questions did you ask...



Teamubr said:


> Are you brand new to RVing or have you been doing this for awhile and decided to make the plunge for a truck and trailer?



As I said, I was originally planning on tent camping at Disney... so I am new to RVing.    As a kid (only child), my parents had pop-up campers we used during vacations... so I know some things associated with those.  I also have a saint of a mother willing to teach me more this spring and summer before letting me go down Florida on my own.  I'm excited to learn!

So I *REALLY* appreciate any advice or tips or knowledge you can bestow on me!

But back to the brake controller... I showed my mom a YouTube video about installing a brake controller, and so she is positive she can do it (and possibly show me).  But what makes a good brake controller?  A quick search on Amazon, and the prices range from about $40 to $125.  Anything specific I should be looking for?

Thank you again for at least not laughing me off the site!


----------



## tiggerdad

2800#!?

Okay, forget what I said about weight distribution as this will not be needing it in the case of the truck you have bought.  You are actually going to have a much easier time on the learning curve with this camper.  It is similar to the R-Pod which is what my neighbors have, and interestingly enough, are in the process of trying to sell.  I have pulled their camper for them before with my dad's 2003 GMC 1500 and it had no trouble pulling or stopping and they actually back and maneuver very easily.

They pulled it the last 2 years with a 2005 Expedition, again, with no difficulty.


----------



## tiggerdad

Flametamr said:


> One of the reviews I read mentioned something about def consumption was about a gallon per 1000 miles. Does that sound about right ?



Yes, that's about right.


----------



## tabbytrekker

tiggerdad said:


> 2800#!?
> 
> Okay, forget what I said about weight distribution as this will not be needing it in the case of the truck you have bought. You are actually going to have a much easier time on the learning curve with this camper. It is similar to the R-Pod which is what my neighbors have, and interestingly enough, are in the process of trying to sell. I have pulled their camper for them before with my dad's 2003 GMC 1500 and it had no trouble pulling or stopping and they actually back and maneuver very easily.
> 
> They pulled it the last 2 years with a 2005 Expedition, again, with no difficulty.



Yeah... lol.  Around 2800 lbs, maybe a little bit less.  My Escape is rated to pull up to 3500 lbs, so I needed something my Escape could pull.  And plus, so far, it's just me going on my new future adventures.  Possibly my mom while I'm learning things.  My dad isn't allowed to teach me things - especially when it involves cars and driving - it just ends up in an arguing match. 

But then... a whole two or three days later... the beautiful F150 came along, and I think I made my grandpa laugh when mentioning the truck should pull my new trailer just fine.

My mom specifically had me look for a truck with the 5.4L engine.  My parents used to have an Expedition; they used it to pull the motorcycle trailer they have.  The Expedition didn't necessarily have problems pulling the motorcycle trailer, even when full of my stuff for college, but my parents' still wished the Expedition had the 5.4L engine so it would have had an easier time.  My mom knew even without the 5.4L engine, others options for the F150 would likely pull the Winnie Drop just fine.  But might as well get something that would even have an easier time, especially if it will likely just be used for pulling a trailer or trips to Lowes.


----------



## Teamubr

Congrats and welcome to RVing. And don't worry about anyone giving you grief about it. You're going camping at the Fort!

Cute little trailer. It should be perfect for 1 person. It is about the same size as my first trailer, a Starcraft hybrid. Nearly the same size and weight. I pulled it all over with an Explorer. One comment about the weight. It looks like the dry weight is about 2800. Your weight with your "stuff" in it will probably be closer to the max weight of 3500. Either way, your truck will do fine.

As for which brake controller. The Prodigy has been the long term standard. It is pretty much a set and forget. I use to have a cheaper Tekonsha that you had to set the gain and the level. It never seemed to be quite right. And they are pretty easy to install. If your mom watched a video and thought it looked ok, she'll do fine.

One question. How come you went with the 170K and the bunks and not one of the floor plans with the queen bed?

j


----------



## peg110

My first truck was an F-150. When I bought it (new), I was very clear that I wanted to tow our TT (Max weight about 7,500 pounds) and that I wanted the truck to have a towing package INCLUDING a brake controller. Well long story short, while they insisted it had a brake controller, the guy I took delivery from was telling me all I needed to do was put this "Relay" in to the slot inside the fuse box and I was all set. When I questioned where the controller was (as I was looking for the one with settings to adjust the controller), he told me it was integrated into the system. Still a bit confused but thinking maybe technology has improved this where they are now "Auto Sensing"..... I left with my new truck. After reading through the manual, I quickly realized, that I still needed the controller. 

Anyway, I bought one (I really don't remember which one) but it was so simple to install. There was a wiring harness built into truck where I just had to take a piece of trim off to get to it, wrap under the dash to where I installed the controller (with velcro because I didn't want to drill holes into the trim anywhere). It worked like a charm and took me less than an hour to do everything.

You could get by without a brake controller and it will work, but I wouldn't want to. Not having one will put more strain on your tow vehicle. Also, because your max of your escape is around 3500 and the new TT is a dry weight of 2800, it won't take long to get the 700 pounds of "STUFF" in your new Winnie, especially when you consider the Propane, Water, Food, Dishes, clothes, etc.... It adds up quick. Plus, my rule of thumb is to keep the towing at least 10% below the capacity of the Tow Vehicle. So that would be a towing of 3150 max with the Escape. (You can tow at or even above max, but it's much harder on the vehicle and not near as safe).

A Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH) would also help especially with "Sway" at highway speeds, but that one is light enough it shouldn't give you too much problem. If you can use it though, I think again, you would be better off, but not necessary (Especially since they aren't cheap)

My last bit of advice (this post) is to take a test run of the Winne locally. That way you can see what you need or don't need. Even if there is no place locally to go, you can "Camp" at your house. Just try to avoid going into the house. That way you can see what you need for a typical trip. (Towels, TP, Food, Pots/Pans, spices, linens, etc...) 

Welcome to RV'ing. I am sure you will have a blast. Bring on more of the "Silly" questions.... As you can tell, we are not swayed by them.


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Tabby,
> 
> Weird posts are usually the best. Tell us more about what you bought. What model of Winny? That will let us know what other fun things you may want besides a brake controller. For example, if it's a bigger trailer, you will probably want/need a weight distribution hitch and sway control. These make towing a trailer much nicer. And for bigger trailers, safer.
> 
> Are you brand new to RVing or have you been doing this for awhile and decided to make the plunge for a truck and trailer?
> 
> As for a brake controller, Ford has been putting integrated brake controllers in their trucks with the tow package for a while. I know my 2008 F250 and my current F350 have them. If you have one from the factory, it will look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just to the right of the steering column, above where your knee would hit the dash. If you don't have one, the dealer where you bought your trailer can install one. A decent brake controller is about $100 or so plus installation, but you will find some as cheap as $35 online.
> 
> j



On my Chevy 3500 The integrated controller is on the left side of the steering column, close to the door. Have whacked my knee off it before getting in and out.


----------



## PaHunter

Flametamr said:


> I'm almost certain unless it was added her truck will not have a brake controller. The good news is it is easy to add. The wiring harness is probably there and she will have to buy a controller and have it installed. Hopefully she already has the 7 way plug and it's fully wired with power for the brakes. I have a 2004 and used a Weight Distribution Hitch with my Keystone Bullet bumper pull. Tabbytrekker have you ever towed a camper ? Do you know how to use the trailer brake properly when going down hills and such to keep from loosing control of the trailer ? If not you're gonna need some training. You'll have to learn everything quickly to have a safe experience. Other than that I love going camping.




I am using the Weight distribution hitch to pull my Keystone Bullet also, even though with the 3500 dually I really don't need it. Was a carry over from my 1500 and see no harm in it.


----------



## tabbytrekker

Teamubr said:


> One question. How come you went with the 170K and the bunks and not one of the floor plans with the queen bed?



I went with the 170K for a couple of reasons.

The RV show I went two had three models of the Winnie Drop to look at.  The 170K was the last one.  The other two I think were the WD170S and I think the WD1710.  They were nice, but I didn't really like the set up/organization of the other two; something just felt off.  It may have been that I already fell in love with the 170K online so I was a bit biased toward the other two.  

Second reason, the 170K was the second lightest of the four options.

Third, I'm actually only five feet tall.   So... I can likely sleep in the bottom bunk quite comfortably without having to convert the dinette table.

But also, I was sort of thinking of the future.  Right now it is most likely just me traveling, but who knows what the future may hold!   I might be able to drag a friend or two along for some trip.  Or maybe someday I could get a dog to travel with - then the dog could use the bunk bed. (I have two cats currently - one gets car sick and the other is terrified to be in cars - so I'm not going to torture them...)  Maybe someday I'll get married... and have a kid or two...

So I liked that the 170K could gave me options for the future.



peg110 said:


> My last bit of advice (this post) is to take a test run of the Winne locally. That way you can see what you need or don't need. Even if there is no place locally to go, you can "Camp" at your house. Just try to avoid going into the house. That way you can see what you need for a typical trip. (Towels, TP, Food, Pots/Pans, spices, linens, etc...)



Yep!  Already have small plans.   A friend of mine who I've known since I was 12 has already requested that we "camp" in the driveway - like we used to do as kids.  I'll also likely go to a state park or two with the trailer for practice this summer.



PaHunter said:


> On my Chevy 3500 The integrated controller is on the left side of the steering column, close to the door. Have whacked my knee off it before getting in and out.



I remember my dad complaining a lot about hitting his knee on the brake controller in our old van that pulled the pop-up camper.



PaHunter said:


> I am using the Weight distribution hitch to pull my Keystone Bullet also, even though with the 3500 dually I really don't need it. Was a carry over from my 1500 and see no harm in it.



I have no idea what this weight distribution hitch thing is but I will add it to my list to google!  

I did some googling research last night about brake controllers... and it sounds like the proportional is better than time-delayed.  So far... that's all I've learned.  But its a start!


----------



## peg110

So the Weight distribution hitch helps to "Even the Load" and as the name implies, it distributes the weight more evenly. Additionally many (if not all) have a "Sway Control"



In the image above you can see 2 bars on the right side of the hitch (bottom of the picture). The rounder one on the bottom has a mirror bar on the other side. This is a key component to the WDH. It helps to shift the weight more evenly to the truck and help to keep the whole system "Level". The Sway control bar is essentially a "Brake" in that there is a part of the bar on the hitch (Silverish in the image) and a part connected to the trailer (black side). Then there is a crank that can tighten or loosen it. The sliding part (silverish) will go in and out, but is ristricted by how tight it's cranked down. The materials to "Resist" this in and out movement are very similar to a brake pad and brake disc. They will only move in and out (mostly) if the trailer is trying to Pivot. This will happen when you turn or if the trailer wants to sway back and forth. Obviously the sway is what we are trying to avoid. When turning however, it takes more force so it will move and allow the turning. Also you should be aware at slow speeds, it WILL make noise (annoying noise too.) I tend to take the sway bar off (or at least loosen it) while parking the TT so as not to be too annoying.   

Again, with the size of your unit, it's not necessary but it is a bit more comfortable towing. Just be warned.... They tend to be HEAVY. I think my WDH weighs about 70 pounds, that doesn't include the leveling bars or the sway control. 

A good article about the WDH can be found at *http://www.trucktrend.com/news/1602-five-things-you-need-to-know-about-a-weight-distributing-hitch/*


----------



## Teamubr

Paul has a great picture and description of the weight distribution hitch. Short answer for "What does it do?". It takes some of the weight that would be sitting on the ball and transfers that weight to the front axle on the truck AND the axle on the trailer. While it does this magic, it also ties the truck and trailer together more as a single unit.

My 2nd TT was 33 ft long and weighted about 7500 lbs. I towed it with an F250 that was rated to pull up to 13,600 lbs. Without the WD hitch, the truck squatted, maybe, 2 inches. Not enough to worry about. The truck towed it really well, but you noticed the length, especially in the wind. With the WD hitch "snapped up", the Truck had no squat and it felt much more stable. Like joined as 1 unit instead of a truck pulling a long trailer.



PaHunter said:


> On my Chevy 3500 The integrated controller is on the left side of the steering column, close to the door. Have whacked my knee off it before getting in and out.


Thanks Chris. One more reason not to buy a Chevy. 



tabbytrekker said:


> I went with the 170K for a couple of reasons.
> 
> But also, I was sort of thinking of the future.  Right now it is most likely just me traveling, but who knows what the future may hold!   I might be able to drag a friend along for some trip.


That was my thought when I saw the bunks. We brings friends along on most trips. (That's a little easier being 42 ft long, having 2 bedrooms and 415 sq ft of living space- who needs a tiny house) Sometimes it is better to have bunks for the "friend", some friends the queen would be more fun. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> Thanks Chris. One more reason not to buy a Chevy.



They've moved it up by the AC vent now, so one more reason to trade out of the F***.


----------



## tabbytrekker

peg110 said:


> A good article about the WDH can be found at *http://www.trucktrend.com/news/1602-five-things-you-need-to-know-about-a-weight-distributing-hitch/*



Thank you!!  It was a very helpful read!  



Teamubr said:


> That was my thought when I saw the bunks. We brings friends along on most trips. (That's a little easier being 42 ft long, having 2 bedrooms and 415 sq ft of living space- who needs a tiny house) Sometimes it is better to have bunks for the "friend", some friends the queen would be more fun.



I agree.


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> some friends the queen would be more fun.


Indeed.... Just don't tell the DW! (or DH what ever your case may be. )


----------



## 2goofycampers

My .02 cents. The thing that most freaked me out when we bought our first TT was every time a tractor trailer went by, the push & pull that happens. It made us sway for a bit. The lighter the TT the more sway. I'd definitely get a no sway bar.


----------



## tabbytrekker

2goofycampers said:


> My .02 cents. The thing that most freaked me out when we bought our first TT was every time a tractor trailer went by, the push & pull that happens. It made us sway for a bit. The lighter the TT the more sway. I'd definitely get a no sway bar.



Okay, thank you!  I was having a conversation earlier this morning with someone along this topic.  In my mind, since its a lighter trailer, it should sway more because it seems like it would be easier to sway.  But I kept being reassured that isn't the case.  I was told swaying has more to do with the vehicle pulling the trailer, than it does the weight of the trailer.


----------



## PaHunter

tabbytrekker said:


> Okay, thank you!  I was having a conversation earlier this morning with someone along this topic.  In my mind, since its a lighter trailer, it should sway more because it seems like it would be easier to sway.  But I kept being reassured that isn't the case.  I was told swaying has more to do with the vehicle pulling the trailer, than it does the weight of the trailer.



That is true to a point. The lighter a trailer is the more air from passing vehicles, pushes the trailer away and then sucks it back toward the object passing. Owning a trailer one becomes more familiar with airflow over vehicles both their own and others on the road. A lot of people learn it and really don't think about it much. 
Nothing to be afraid of, just something to be aware is going to happen. Happens to all of us that tow, big or small.


----------



## tabbytrekker

peg110 said:


> Indeed.... Just don't tell the DW! (or DH what ever your case may be. )



haha... I don't have either.  Although I'm certainly in the market for a DH!  Probably should find a boyfriend first too.  Preferably one that can drive a truck and pull a trailer.


----------



## tabbytrekker

PaHunter said:


> pushes the trailer away and then sucks it back toward the object passing.



That sounds terrifying!  But I guess I'll get use to it?


----------



## Teamubr

tabbytrekker said:


> That sounds terrifying!  But I guess I'll get use to it?


Not terrifying. Think of a slight push and pull. You feel wind gusts more. I don't think you will notice it much with the F150. The trailer is small enough and the truck wheelbase is big enough to stabilize the push/pull you would get. 

Now that you know it occurs, when you feel it, you won't be surprised. You'll think, "I knew that was going to happen" 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

In regards to the whole "push and pull" while traveling and passing larger vehicles.  It has as much to do with the vehicle as it does the trailer.  For instance, my current camper is a 35 foot bumper pull.  Initially I started off pulling it with a 2003 F250, 2WD crew cab.  When passing and being passed you had to counter steer to make up for the affects of the wind currents on the truck and trailer.  Now I have a 2012 F-250 4x4 crew cab.  Same truck, but different weight and height off the ground.  Now I have no effects when passing larger vehicles, none at all.  I was really surprised at the difference.  I think with your truck and that trailer you will probably have some effects, but they should not be dramatic and you'll adapt fast and begin to anticipate it thus making it not a big deal.


----------



## kskone

2016 Toyota Tundra double cab pulling a 2014 Cougar 5th wheel.....upgraded tires, brakes, and air bags no problem towing 18.5 single 11 towing


----------



## tabbytrekker

Teamubr said:


> Not terrifying. Think of a slight push and pull. You feel wind gusts more. I don't think you will notice it much with the F150. The trailer is small enough and the truck wheelbase is big enough to stabilize the push/pull you would get.



I guess one nice thing, so I'm told, about my trailer-to-be is that the wheels are on the outside of the trailer.  I'm hoping this push and pull thing you all are talking about isn't that bad!   I'm starting to wish I could just have the same job I was given as a kid while in the backseat of the van while pulling the pop-up camper.  To keep me busy and quiet, my parent's gave me the job of making sure the pop-up camper was still there behind us.  Luckily it never went anywhere. 



tiggerdad said:


> I think with your truck and that trailer you will probably have some effects, but they should not be dramatic and you'll adapt fast and begin to anticipate it thus making it not a big deal.



I appreciate that you have so much faith in me!


----------



## parrothead64

Trailer sway also can be affected by how the trailer is loaded, so take that into consideration. You want weight more in front of the axle, not behind. Also if you think you need it, you can purchase an anti sway bar
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/83660.html

Have fun and good luck


----------



## bama_ed

Well, my tow vehicle hit a milestone tonight.

I'm down in Gulf Shores now for a Half Marathon tomorrow and my 2005 Chevy Suburban rolled over 200,000 miles.  I told my guys at the shop last time  that have serviced my family fleet for the last 25 years, "you got me nearly 200k - now let's go get 200k more".  They laughed at me and said as long as the engine and tranny hold out, it could happen.





Bama Ed

PS - yeah, I know, dead oil temp gauge... replacing that is not real high on my priority list.


----------



## tabbytrekker

parrothead64 said:


> Trailer sway also can be affected by how the trailer is loaded, so take that into consideration. You want weight more in front of the axle, not behind. Also if you think you need it, you can purchase an anti sway bar
> https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/83660.html
> 
> Have fun and good luck



*Thanks!!!!!!*


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> Well, my tow vehicle hit a milestone tonight. My 2005 Chevy Suburban rolled over 200,000 miles.


Congrats! 

They don't build them like they used to. Even for a Chevy 

Really though. Used to be that 100,000 was the "big" milestone. I've never made 200K before I traded or it had a catastrophic failure. Closest was my old Audi A6. 199,300. Transmission grenaded on a highway entrance ramp. It wasn't worth the $4000 (just for the used trans) to fix it. I've had several others in the 188-189K range, but I'd trade them or sell them before the big 200. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

I had a 1992 Geo Storm that had 225,000 on it when I sold it.  I bought it new and it got me through HS, college, and my first 5 years of marriage.

Funny, I remember I paid like $12,000 for that thing.  With today's prices you'd think the 200,000 mile marker would be more common.  Sadly, it's probably because we trade off for something else when what we had could of lasted us well past that marker.


----------



## tltay2005

Saw this very interesting rig at Lake Louise State Park. Had to share.


----------



## tiggerdad

tltay2005 said:


> Saw this very interesting rig at Lake Louise State Park. Had to share.
> 
> View attachment 217785



I want one!


----------



## PaHunter

tltay2005 said:


> Saw this very interesting rig at Lake Louise State Park. Had to share.
> 
> View attachment 217785



That is one way to roll. Very neat.


----------



## MudQueen22

Watching this thread. Thank you, tabbytrekker. I'm learning a lot just by reading it.


----------



## Mcsap

2014 Ecodiesel Ram 4x4 4 door ( 3.0 diesel) 28 ft Trailer weighs around 6,500 lbs. 

Best mpg solo 30 doing between 55-60 mph in Georgia.   Around town 22-23.  towing I get 11-13 depending.


----------



## tiggerdad

Aight, so with my F-250 one thing I've noticed is that on the highway it seemed I had a lot of wind noise from inside the cab.  More than I felt it should.  I checked the doors thinking maybe one of them was adjusted incorrectly but didn't find an answer there.  Researching it I found a few forums that referenced a door seal mod on YouTube.





I found the recommended surgical tubing
 

Got a can of silicone and followed the instructions and was quite surprised at how well it actually helped.  Didn't eliminate it completely but for sure seemed to make a difference.

The one roll was enough to do all 4 doors on the crew cab.


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> Aight, so with my F-250 one thing I've noticed is that on the highway it seemed I had a lot of wind noise from inside the cab.  More than I felt it should.  I checked the doors thinking maybe one of them was adjusted incorrectly but didn't find an answer there.  Researching it I found a few forums that referenced a door seal mod on YouTube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the recommended surgical tubing
> View attachment 221797
> 
> Got a can of silicone and followed the instructions and was quite surprised at how well it actually helped.  Didn't eliminate it completely but for sure seemed to make a difference.
> 
> The one roll was enough to do all 4 doors on the crew cab.



Interesting.... I just accepted the wind noise... Maybe I will have to try this to on my 250.


----------



## Teamubr

Nice find Michael. I'll have to try that. I never thought the wind noise was that bad on my truck unless it was really windy, but quieter is better.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

A few people on the forums said they didn't notice a difference but most reported improvement.  My results seemed pretty good.

Have noticed I need to put just a little more effort when closing doors but not that big of difference.


----------



## Teamubr

Michael,

What year is your F250?

j


----------



## tiggerdad

2012


----------



## Teamubr

OK. Same series as mine. I wanted to make sure this wasn't a newer or older molding issue. Maybe it's because it's a truck, generally towing a big trailer, but I don't notice any extreme wind noise.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Not all of them do apparently.  Most mentioned were 2011 up models.


----------



## dmaxphil

Poor Ford guys..


----------



## bama_ed

dmaxphil said:


> Poor Ford guys..



Corners being cut....They feel it...


----------



## tiggerdad

But, easily fixed with $30 of surgical tubing.

Now the other guys, they needed millions of taxpayer's $$


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> But, easily fixed with $30 of surgical tubing.
> 
> Now the other guys, they needed millions of taxpayer's $$
> 
> View attachment 221969


Which is one of the factors why I went with FORD when I bought my truck. I have to say, that my F250 is only 3 years old (with 44K+ miles) and I have not had any issues so far.  Here's hoping the next 144K are just as good.


----------



## dmaxphil

Well, I'd like to thank all of you for helping Chevy make quieter cabs.

In all seriousness, Ford does receive significant taxpayer dollars (subsidies - 2.5B/year) and borrowed billions (FMC) from the government even though they didn't officially participate in the "bailout"

Here's one link
https://www.cars.com/articles/2010/12/report-ford-took-federal-funds-too/


----------



## tiggerdad

All government lies I tell you!

In honesty however, I hope I see the same 200,000 that Ed has on his Chevy.  So far so good.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> All government lies I tell you!


Those aren't lies. They are "alternate facts". Gotta get with the new terminology. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Oh yeah, thanks dude.

Hey @dmaxphil you gotta get in one of these Gulf Shores run man.


----------



## dmaxphil

tiggerdad said:


> Oh yeah, thanks dude.
> 
> Hey @dmaxphil you gotta get in one of these Gulf Shores run man.



We'll be there in spirit. FYI, we will be staying at GSP for one night on the way back from the Fort in 3 weeks. Better than nothing I suppose.


----------



## bama_ed

I'm only on my first 200k.  Figure I got at least another one or two of those still in me....


----------



## tiggerdad

dmaxphil said:


> We'll be there in spirit. FYI, we will be staying at GSP for one night on the way back from the Fort in 3 weeks. Better than nothing I suppose.



Shame, we could sit around and make fun of hybrid vehicles.



bama_ed said:


> I'm only on my first 200k.  Figure I got at least another one or two of those still in me....



At a boy Ed


----------



## SYLVESTER7577

Being a new to RV's here, looking for any advice. I have a 5.3L 1500 Suburban with a lot of miles but a fresh transmission and a trailer towing package. I used it to pull my 14 ft. enclosed trailer (3000 lbs.) with ease. I am now purchasing a 2006 Rockwood ultra lite TT (6200 lbs) 33 ft. Am I going to get by OK for a while? I know I need to upgrade but would rather work on purchasing a diesel in the future.


----------



## tiggerdad

Hi Sylvester7577, glad to have you aboard.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe the 1500 Suburbans towing capacity is in the 6000-6500 pound range, but that is for a 1998 model.  Some references show its capacity possibly near 8000#, again depending on year model but with towing package it should be about right.  As a rule, most people suggest not long hauling more than 75% of your vehicles maximum capacity as the wear on the vehicle is greatly increased.

Maybe a little more info such as the year model might help.

If it is in the 8000# range then your 6200# is about 77% so your within tow range, but you also have to add in weight of people, water, food, clothes, camping supplies, etc.  This will increase you probably to near 80%.  So, yes you probably can in short term tow it but for sure using a weight distribution hitch that is properly adjusted and make certain the trailer brakes are in good working order.  Your biggest risk is stopping ability and handling and these two things are at the top of the list.


----------



## SYLVESTER7577

I guess I missed that info. It is a 2003 4 x 4 which I have found to be 7500-8000 lbs (aprox.) depending on the rear axle ratio that I don't know as I have it in my pole barn up north. Web sites seem to vary on that stat. It should either be a 4:10 or 3:73. The trailer has a nice heavy duty sway system. Upon picking it up I plan to go directly to someone to double check it's operation after I test drive some flat back roads. It just seems like a monster and I have never pulled something that large. Also specs have varied on the trailer as well (8311ss) as low as 5825 dry. But either way with the age I would be pushing it. I plan to try to stay close to town for awhile. Thanks Michael, i hope this sketchiness lol helps more.


----------



## Teamubr

SYLVESTER7577 said:


> I am now purchasing a 2006 Rockwood ultra lite TT (6200 lbs) 33 ft. Am I going to get by OK for a while?


It sounds like you know you are close to the limit, but I think you'll be OK. Suburbans are pretty tough (Ask Ed.) You will need a good, properly adjusted weight distribution (WD) hitch and probably a sway control, depending on the length of the trailer. 

I've towed at 95+% of capacity in several setups. My 2nd trailer was a 33 ft TT. weighed 6800 lbs. Towed it with a V8 Explorer rated for 7200. I've also towed a 21,000 lb 2 car enclosed race hauler all over the country with my dually rated at about 21,500. Just know that towing at the limit will feel different than pulling your 3000 lb trailer. Not horrible or white knuckle, but not as "easy" as the light trailer. 

j


----------



## SYLVESTER7577

Teamubr said:


> Towed it with a V8 Explorer rated for 7200. I've also towed a 21,000 lb 2 car enclosed race hauler all over the country with my dually rated at about 21,500.



Speaking of racing I am a warehouse distributor for Griffin and Northern Radiators as well as work with my buddy on custom builds and high performance fans/shrouds. If needed in the future feel free to drop me a line for a quote. Mark


----------



## PaHunter

SYLVESTER7577 said:


> Being a new to RV's here, looking for any advice. I have a 5.3L 1500 Suburban with a lot of miles but a fresh transmission and a trailer towing package. I used it to pull my 14 ft. enclosed trailer (3000 lbs.) with ease. I am now purchasing a 2006 Rockwood ultra lite TT (6200 lbs) 33 ft. Am I going to get by OK for a while? I know I need to upgrade but would rather work on purchasing a diesel in the future.



We towed our TT at 26 ft and around 7000 lbs with our old 2003 Chevy 1500 Silverado. Our trip to Disney and lousy fuel mileage prompted the move to a bigger diesel. We averaged about 7mpg towing. So don't be surprised even close to home that you burn much more fuel than the enclosed trailer. Good luck to you, and welcome to the camping world.


----------



## SYLVESTER7577

PaHunter said:


> We towed our TT at 26 ft and around 7000 lbs with our old 2003 Chevy 1500 Silverado. Our trip to Disney and lousy fuel mileage prompted the move to a bigger diesel. We averaged about 7mpg towing. So don't be surprised even close to home that you burn much more fuel than the enclosed trailer. Good luck to you, and welcome to the camping world.



Thanks for the info. On our bucket list is the FWC and I figured I was skeptical being the miles on the Suburban and the larger hills and such of Tennessee and Kentucky from Michigan. I could live with the miles but the truck might be to tired for a trip like that now. We are also glued on the simplicity and cost of Pop Century as we can usually fly round trip for under $500, usually non stop and no rental car with Magic Express. But we started Disney with the cabins and want to try the RV approach.


----------



## peg110

We had a similar suburban for our first Travel Trailer which was a Coachman Capri 27TBS (27 footer). GVWR was a little over 7000#. It did okay until it hit a hill. Obviously the steeper the hill the harder it worked. For us the hills wouldn't have been too bad if we could go at them at Highway speeds, but we had to start the hills (and steep ones too) at about 25 - 35 MPH which made it worse.

As others have stated, expect a difference in towing versus the smaller one. and the MPG will be horrible. Even when we upgraded to our F-250 (albeit gas engine and not diesel) my towing was still only about 8 MPG on the highway (at best).


----------



## sirenia88

I'm not going to get into the whole vehicle manufacturer vs thing.  I already know which vehicle is the best.  My truck. 



tiggerdad said:


> Shame, we could sit around and make fun of hybrid vehicles.
> At a boy Ed



ahem...  My wife and I just bought a Hybrid.  It's a 2016 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid Limited with Ultimate package.  Basically fully loaded.    I know it's not even my prefer brand either.  Why?  Mainly because my frame can fit in every seat of the vehicle.  A few weeks ago she rented one for an out of town event.  Turned out she like the ride and wanted to look at one with more features.  The lot we went to had a few to look at.  She wound up taking a test drive in this one as she likes the idea of the hybrid.  Well We didn't expect to sign papers for the car for at least a couple of months.  Since it was 2016 leftover, we got a really good deal on it given the fact it was factory demo.

Oh the other nice thing, my wife is getting something like 42 MPG with winter gas. She just pull just a hair under 600 miles with her first tank of gas.  It has a 100,000 mile warranty.  Hyundai has coverage on the batteries in which other Hybrid don't.  The price was right.  The wife felt in love with the car which is saying something as well.  Quite frankly, it gets over 3 times the fuel mileage of my F250 and my Explorer.  The only way I could even get close would be a diesel with an extended range tank.



Teamubr said:


> It sounds like you know you are close to the limit, but I think you'll be OK. Suburbans are pretty tough (Ask Ed.) You will need a good, properly adjusted weight distribution (WD) hitch and probably a sway control, depending on the length of the trailer.
> 
> I've towed at 95+% of capacity in several setups. My 2nd trailer was a 33 ft TT. weighed 6800 lbs. Towed it with a V8 Explorer rated for 7200. I've also towed a 21,000 lb 2 car enclosed race hauler all over the country with my dually rated at about 21,500. Just know that towing at the limit will feel different than pulling your 3000 lb trailer. Not horrible or white knuckle, but not as "easy" as the light trailer.
> 
> j



Come on!  Ed tows a pop up with his Suburban! I see small SUVs tow pop ups! LOL    j/k Ed.  WDH and sway control is definitely a good choice in any towing set up.  Speaking of which Teamubr, my parents tow a 3500 pound Jayco Hybrid with a 08 Explorer with the V8 and 6 speed trans.  That vehicle walks all over my V6 with the 5 speed.  The trailer is really balanced to their truck for what ever reason.  



PaHunter said:


> We towed our TT at 26 ft and around 7000 lbs with our old 2003 Chevy 1500 Silverado. Our trip to Disney and lousy fuel mileage prompted the move to a bigger diesel. We averaged about 7mpg towing. So don't be surprised even close to home that you burn much more fuel than the enclosed trailer. Good luck to you, and welcome to the camping world.



Yup.  Get ready for frequent fuel stops and budget more than you think for fuel.  I get about 8 to 9 MPG with my 250 with my 30 foot 6000 pound trailer.    However, some of that is due to the shorter rear end gears.  Going with a high gears like 3.73 to 4.30s will allow the trans to not shift as much reducing fuel usage.  Now that my wife has a car again, I'm looking into regearing the truck from 3.73s to 4.30s to make trailer a bit easier this season.    Diesels just have more power available at lower RPMs and in some cases can even be double the torque of their gas model cousins.  Example Ford Super Duty.  6.7 Diesel is rated 440 HP with 925 TQ or torque.  The 6.2 vGas model is rated at 385 HP with only 430 TQ.   Earlier 6.2s where only rated for 405TQ.  However,  I know I am not going to win the race but I will get to my destination in more comfort than when I owned my F150 half ton.

PA, which 1500 engine did you have? 5.3? which rear end?  that might have been one of the causes of poo fuel mileage.


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> I'm not going to get into the whole vehicle manufacturer vs thing.  I already know which vehicle is the best.  My truck.
> 
> PA, which 1500 engine did you have? 5.3? which rear end?  that might have been one of the causes of poo fuel mileage.



Our 1500 had a V8 with the 3.73 rear. It was rated to tow 10000 if I remember correct and our TT comes in around 7000 or 7500 loaded up.


----------



## sirenia88

PaHunter said:


> Our 1500 had a V8 with the 3.73 rear. It was rated to tow 10000 if I remember correct and our TT comes in around 7000 or 7500 loaded up.



Yeah I looked at a 1500HD model several years back when i was looking for trucks.  Of course the dealer that advertised said they had it on the lot.  When I got there, they claimed they could not find it.  "bait and switch" in my mind about the dealership.  However, the sales guy claimed they had something similar.  I test drove it and it was nothing to write home about.  I think it had something around a 3.20 or 3.30 rear end with a 5.3 V8.  The guy kept telling me how I would get great gas mileage towing or driving around town.  The model I was looking at had the 8.0 Vortec with the 4.11 rear.  Basically a gas hog with power.  If it had been there, I would have bought it if it drove well. 

On a fun note, a neighbor came over and asked if I could use my truck to move something in his yard. I said sure.  Turns out his add on garage is getting a 10,000 pound lift.  He invited me over any time for the use of the lift.  When I was dragging a loaded 20 yard dumpster out of the way for him, we were talking about trailering since he knows i have the F 250.  I said well the biggest complain really is mileage when towing in the hill country.  I know taller gears would make a difference.  He said no doubt.  He goes once i get he lift installed in another month.  Come over and we will talk about tossing in a set of gears for the truck.   Interesting thing is this guy literally lives 2 doors down from me.  We talk once in awhile.  Once my neighbor across the street moved out, he talks to me more often.  (They didn't get along so much from my understanding and I found out why afterwards.)


----------



## tripleb

We are new to camping and pulling a trailer. When we purchased our trailer, it was predicated on the truck that we had. It was a 2005 Tundra 2WD 4.6L V-8. It's towing capacity was 7200lbs. When we pulled our new trailer home, I found out real quick that I didn't have enough horsepower even for the 4100lb. dry weight camper. I couldn't maintain 55mph without a serious struggle. So, when we pulled into the driveway, I turned to my wife and said we got to get another truck.

Went looking the following weekend and found a 2015 Chevrolet 2500HD with all the bells and whistles including 4WD. It's a 6.0L, crew cab, 6.5' bed, and 4.10 rear gears. Pulls our camper just fine. 15mpg Hwy. unloaded ... 9mpg Hwy. pulling camper at 68mph with cruise on.


----------



## Teamubr

Nice looking combo.

And there are many of us that have upgraded the truck shortly after getting a new trailer.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Nice looking truck!


----------



## tripleb

Teamubr said:


> Nice looking combo.
> 
> And there are many of us that have upgraded the truck shortly after getting a new trailer.
> 
> j





dmaxphil said:


> Nice looking truck!



Thanks for the kudos. When I went truck shopping I was dead set on a 3/4 ton. Reason being is that I am sure the wife will want a larger trailer in a couple of years  I really wanted a diesel but the wife said "no diesel ... period". I went to Ford, Dodge, and Chevrolet looking for a nice used 3/4 ton. Found 3 trucks one of which was a diesel. The other 2 were a 2013 Silverado 2500HD and the 2015 Silverado 2500HD that I purchased.


----------



## dmaxphil

I'm partial to silver!


----------



## Jim Harper

Nice!


----------



## Jason'smom

Teamubr said:


> Nice looking combo.
> 
> And there are many of us that have upgraded the truck shortly after getting a new trailer.
> 
> j


We did that, and then once we got the truck hubby wanted in the first place....we then got a bigger trailer too


----------



## tripleb

Jason'smom said:


> We did that, and then once we got the truck hubby wanted in the first place....we then got a bigger trailer too



Yep, I can see that happening in our future also


----------



## Jason'smom

tripleb said:


> Yep, I can see that happening in our future also


Wish I would have listened to him in the first place.....wouldn't have lost money on trade ins......don't tell him I said that


----------



## PaHunter

Jason'smom said:


> We did that, and then once we got the truck hubby wanted in the first place....we then got a bigger trailer too



That was our thought process also. Bought the truck, hoped to upgrade TT to 5er last year. But we ended up moving and well the trailer upgrade will have to wait for a bit now.


----------



## peg110

Jason'smom said:


> Wish I would have listened to him in the first place.....wouldn't have lost money on trade ins......don't tell him I said that


Well my first truck was an F150 and 2 years later I upgraded to an F250. I don't feel I lost any money though. I still had about $10K of positive equity on the trade and I got a better truck (Went from an XLT to a Lariat). My payment only jumped a little bit too.

The sad part is, is that I am still running gas, and I think I'd really rather have Diesel. That's a huge price difference though and I don't really tow enough to offset it.


----------



## 5stljayhawks

24 ft hybrid camper V6 SOHC  99 explorer  -/ white knuckle driving to FW - great on flat ground.  Just put new tires on today at 195K ->upgraded to 3/4 '06 burb 24' tows like dream.  wife wants upgrade to  '35 coachman freedom express(kids and damn free dog) . Tows ok - You know its back there-> '16 f350 Diesel 6.7 crew w/leer cover  same 35'ft - Wow life is good. 5K ft passes are pre warm up to warm up.  

Oh yah - since the trucks is the wife's she gets all the accolades. Guys are like that your truck?  "of course its mine...."


----------



## peg110

5stljayhawks said:


> Guys are like that your truck? "of course its mine...."


Yeah, my wife thinks the our truck is HERS, and she likes to drive it EXCEPT when the trailer is attached.


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> Yeah, my wife thinks the our truck is HERS, and she likes to drive it EXCEPT when the trailer is attached.


Nope!

My DW won't drive the truck, much less with a trailer on. Too big and too wide, according to her. It's funny, DS was afraid of it too. He has a Miata. It will literally fit in the bed, but he has had to drive an F150 at work and thinks he's ready for the dually. I let him take it last week when his car was broken. He thinks it's great now. I think it's just a matter of time before he rips a fender flare off on something.

j


----------



## 5stljayhawks

Peg110 - Maybe we are married to the same lady or they have long lost sisters.  Oh BTW - if I am around, w/o trailer I "get" to drive.  Like to costco or kids practices.  Oh Boyyyy, do I feel honored!!!  Don't forget she will even let me - Hang on Boys - drain the fuel water,  take the Green Giant in for oil changes and wash, wax AND Vacuum. I have it good!!!


----------



## bama_ed

5stljayhawks said:


> Oh BTW - if I am around, w/o trailer I "get" to drive.  Like to costco or kids practices.  Oh Boyyyy, do I feel honored!!!  Don't forget she will even let me - Hang on Boys - drain the fuel water,  take the Green Giant in for oil changes and wash, wax AND Vacuum. I have it good!!!



You better shut up RIGHT NOW with that kind of crazy talk, 5stljayhawks!  

I've kept DW out of MY Suburban's driver seat so far and you sure aren't helping.   Do you hear me?  It's mine, all mine.

Hope she doesn't read this...

Bama Ed


----------



## peg110

I am a bit better off... I get to drive mine most of the time, only because she doesn't want to have to pay for gas, oil, tires, REGISTRATION (Ugh... almost $200 annually) and the like.  Washing and Waxing wouldn't be an issue.... she wouldn't do it either way.


----------



## peg110

Ed, I think my DW doesn't push the issue because she knows I'd make her pay for the Gas. In fact, she prefers to ride in the truck too (She feels much safer especially when traveling) and even around town, if "I" drive, it's my truck and "MY" Gas as opposed to her driving and "Her" gas.  (of course we could go on a whole new thread talking about "Her Gas" but it wouldn't be on the truck/towing thread)


----------



## DisneyDad0f5

Well I guess this is where I am supposed to brag about my camper and rig.  We just bought a 2017 Coleman 2855BH TT.  We were originally just going to buy a hybrid or pop up camper but we found this one with the dry weight under 5500 lbs.   
 
 

I was originally going to pull this with my 2003 Yukon XL Denali but a trip to the repair shop and the impending doom of the transmission forced my to look around for a different TV.  I bought  a 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel from a friend for a decent price.  It tows this trailer no problem.  Of course, I have only towed it to Gulf Shores and back to Fairhope.  I am going to add a WDH with sway control before our next trip to the Fort on Memorial day.  

DDo5 - aka Mike


----------



## peg110

DisneyDad0f5 said:


> I am going to add a WDH with sway control before our next trip to the Fort on Memorial day.


I would say a WDH is a MUST. We have a coachmen Catalina Legacy 343QBDS (almost 37' long from tip to tail) and without the WDH..... I don't think I could go over 50 MPH. Coming from NE PA to the fort would be a VERY long trip at 50 MPH (I usually manage about 70MPH for most highway) your rig looks a lot like ours on the outside with only some minor differences.


----------



## DisneyDad0f5

peg110 said:


> I would say a WDH is a MUST. We have a coachmen Catalina Legacy 343QBDS (almost 37' long from tip to tail) and without the WDH..... I don't think I could go over 50 MPH. Coming from NE PA to the fort would be a VERY long trip at 50 MPH (I usually manage about 70MPH for most highway) your rig looks a lot like ours on the outside with only some minor differences.



I took back roads as far south as I could go to get to Gulf Shores.  I was between 55 and 60 with no problems.  Of course, I did not have to contend with big rigs blowing by me.  I did get a little bouncy coming off one little bridge.  Our trailer is a little over 31' end to end.  The WDH is happening FOR SURE before I get on the interstate with it.

DDo5 - aka Mike


----------



## bama_ed

DisneyDad0f5 said:


> I was originally going to pull this with my 2003 Yukon XL Denali but a trip to the repair shop and the impending doom of the transmission forced my to look around for a different TV.  I bought  a 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel from a friend for a decent price.  It tows this trailer no problem.  Of course, I have only towed it to Gulf Shores and back to Fairhope.  I am going to add a WDH with sway control before our next trip to the Fort on Memorial day.
> 
> DDo5 - aka Mike



Mike, good choice for the TV.

Watch out for the Ford crowd here though.  They are loud  

 but proud.

Bama Ed


----------



## Teamubr

Mike,

Good looking rig.



bama_ed said:


> Mike, good choice for the TV.
> 
> Watch out for the Ford crowd here though.  They are loud
> 
> but proud.


Ed,

I don't know what you mean. His Silverado with the D-Max is a perfectly good match for his 5500 lb camper. Any more trailer than that and I'd be concerned, but... 

And I didn't even say anything about the Yukon trans giving up the fight.

Ooopps.

j


----------



## 2goofycampers

Looks like we might become Chevy Duramax people soon.


----------



## tiggerdad

2goofycampers said:


> Looks like we might become Chevy Duramax people soon.



I'm so sorry.

My family will be praying for you.


----------



## Teamubr

2goofycampers said:


> Looks like we might become Chevy Duramax people soon.


There's hope...

Pretty sure there is a 12 step program available. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

So in all seriousness Denise, are you guys planning a camper upgrade as well?


----------



## 2goofycampers

tiggerdad said:


> So in all seriousness Denise, are you guys planning a camper upgrade as well?


Not yet, got to save up some $. We are still pretty happy with the Jayco's livability.


----------



## tabbytrekker

Since you were all so helpful earlier this year, I thought I'd share a photo of my new trailer - it *FINALLY* came!!  I haven't taken it anywhere yet, or pulled it myself, but I hope to get lots of practice before heading to Disney World in six months!


----------



## Teamubr

tabbytrekker said:


> Since you were all so helpful earlier this year, I thought I'd share a photo of my new trailer - it *FINALLY* came!!  I haven't taken it anywhere yet, or pulled it myself, but I hope to get lots of practice before heading to Disney World in six months!


Cute!

j


----------



## tabbytrekker

Teamubr said:


> Cute!



Thanks!  Seeing how it's just me likely going to be using it, it's the perfect size for me!    Now I just have to hope I can learn how to pull and park it... the parking part terrifies me...


----------



## Flametamr

Okay I need opinions from all you towing experts engineers. I found a truck I want. It's a 2015 Ford F150 CrewCab 4x4 with the 3.5 ecoboost. Has a 157 inch wheel base and has the max tow package. Will tow my camper and have 2,000 lbs to spare. I don't tow enough yet to justify the diesel purchase.


----------



## Teamubr

Flametamr said:


> Okay I need opinions from all you towing experts engineers. I found a truck I want. It's a 2015 Ford F150 CrewCab 4x4 with the 3.5 ecoboost. Has a 157 inch wheel base and has the max tow package. Will tow my camper and have 2,000 lbs to spare. I don't tow enough yet to justify the diesel purchase.


I think it would make a great TV. A friend bought a used F150. I tried to talk him into the Ecoboost, but he went with the V8. He's getting 16 mpg and it doesn't have as much tow rating as the V6. 
My new little car has the beast version of that Ecoboost, except mine is only a 2.3L. It does make 350 HP and 350 lb/ft though. 

j


----------



## Teamubr

tabbytrekker said:


> Now I just have to hope I can learn how to pull and park it... the parking part terrifies me...


Practice, practice, practice. 

A little warning. Not sure what you are towing with, but short wheel base trailers (hitch to axle length) are harder to back up than the monster long trailers. I can back my 42 5er into anywhere, but I gave up trying to back in a jet ski trailer with my truck. The short trailers react to steering input much faster. A little steering wheel will make a huge movement in trailer. 

Nothing to scare you, just something to be aware of. Hints that work for me is to slow down everything. Backing isn't a race. The slower you go, the more time to assess where the trailer is going and think through how you need to react before it is too far gone and you have to pull up and straighten out to try again. 

Besides, if you go slow, it provides more entertainment for those of us watching. 

j


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> Practice, practice, practice.
> 
> A little warning. Not sure what you are towing with, but short wheel base trailers (hitch to axle length) are harder to back up than the monster long trailers. I can back my 42 5er into anywhere, but I gave up trying to back in a jet ski trailer with my truck. The short trailers react to steering input much faster. A little steering wheel will make a huge movement in trailer.
> 
> Nothing to scare you, just something to be aware of. Hints that work for me is to slow down everything. Backing isn't a race. The slower you go, the more time to assess where the trailer is going and think through how you need to react before it is too far gone and you have to pull up and straighten out to try again.
> 
> Besides, if you go slow, it provides more entertainment for those of us watching.
> 
> j



Yeah! What he ^^^^ said....

I concur, 100%. I had the SAME experience with my JetSki Trailer (years ago). First we had a SINGLE jetski trailer, and it was HORRIBLE to back. It was just easier to take the trailer off.... push it (of course it's much lighter then a larger TT) where we want it. We upgraded to 2 JetSki's and  a double trailer to tow them... Much easier to back in. The old "Wider is better" holds true here too. 

Either way... the entertainment for others is always a plus!


----------



## tabbytrekker

Teamubr said:


> Besides, if you go slow, it provides more entertainment for those of us watching.





peg110 said:


> Either way... the entertainment for others is always a plus!



Haha... trust me, people get plenty of entertainment just watching me try to park my truck.  Adding the trailer should be a great show!!


----------



## peg110

tabbytrekker said:


> Adding the trailer should be a great show!!


 I'm Ready!


----------



## tabbytrekker

peg110 said:


> I'm Ready!



haha.  I'll be there in October, so make sure to save some of that popcorn!!


----------



## 2goofycampers

2goofycampers said:


> Looks like we might become Chevy Duramax people soon.


Or not..... We put a deposit down it was suppose to be in and picked up today. Yesterday afternoon they called off the deal.
So we ordered a Dodge with everything we want on a truck. 6 - 12 weeks to come in.


----------



## tiggerdad

Oh, there's gotta be a good story here.

Please, do tell...


----------



## 2goofycampers

tiggerdad said:


> Oh, there's gotta be a good story here.
> 
> Please, do tell...


LOL, They said the other dealership wouldn't sell/trade the truck to them.


----------



## tiggerdad

What!?  That's it?  Just wouldn't sell them the truck?  But... Where's the drama!?

Dang!

Aight...tell us about the Dodge...Did Frank threaten to beat anybody with a cane fishing pole?


----------



## 2goofycampers

Our 2006 is a basic truck. We added a few options this time. White 2500 Cummins, power windows, locks and mirrors. A back-up camera and park assist system. Integrated trailer brake controller. The chrome wheels and 18 inch tires. Spray in bed liner. Nothing fancy, practical, comfortable from point A to point B.


----------



## tiggerdad

The backup camera is one thing that now that I have it, I don't know how I survived without it.

Park assist huh?  Have to let me know on that one.


----------



## peg110

My First truck was an F-150 and it had back up sensors and I loved it. (No visual, just audible) now the current truck is an F-250 with sensors AND a camera. Like you Michael, I don't know how I lived without it. It's also great for hitching up. I can actually do it fairly quickly by my self now. as I get closer, I can change the "Angle" of the camera to looking straight down. I absolutely love it.

Denise, I will tell you that when we got our F-250, I wanted the sprayed in bed liner. It was an extra $400 (or so) and it was worth EVERY SINGLE PENNY! I love it. I haul pallets of coal during heating season from the dealer to home. I have also picked up gravel (multiple times) as well as mulch. No Damage. I don't even worry about it. It's another "I gotta have it" item for us now.


----------



## 2goofycampers

peg110 said:


> My First truck was an F-150 and it had back up sensors and I loved it. (No visual, just audible) now the current truck is an F-250 with sensors AND a camera. Like you Michael, I don't know how I lived without it. It's also great for hitching up. I can actually do it fairly quickly by my self now. as I get closer, I can change the "Angle" of the camera to looking straight down. I absolutely love it.
> 
> Denise, I will tell you that when we got our F-250, I wanted the sprayed in bed liner. It was an extra $400 (or so) and it was worth EVERY SINGLE PENNY! I love it. I haul pallets of coal during heating season from the dealer to home. I have also picked up gravel (multiple times) as well as mulch. No Damage. I don't even worry about it. It's another "I gotta have it" item for us now.


Do the sensors pick up the camper when in reverse?


----------



## Teamubr

2goofycampers said:


> Do the sensors pick up the camper when in reverse?


Mine do. They also pick up the tailgate when it is down. 

j


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> Mine do. They also pick up the tailgate when it is down.
> 
> j


Same here.... Mine has 4 sensors across the rear bumper (even spaced from end to end). I have even had it pick up "Tall Grass" which really freaks me out sometimes.


----------



## tripleb

2goofycampers said:


> Do the sensors pick up the camper when in reverse?



 I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD so my sensors may be different ... Yes, the sensors alert when backing up the camper but the camera also alerts. On the Silverado, there is a switch that allows the user to turn off the parking sensors.


----------



## tiggerdad

On my f-250 it alerts for the trailer but you can select to disable it.  Unless you turn the key off it remains disabled.


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> On my f-250 it alerts for the trailer but you can select to disable it.  Unless you turn the key off it remains disabled.


As I recall too, once the trailer is "connected" (The electrical that is) my back up sensors on the truck no longer work (but the camera does).


----------



## PaHunter

So where are all my 5er guru's. What is the best hitch to use to pull your trailer with. I am now in the market for a hitch, rails are factory installed and I guess pretty standard ??


----------



## Teamubr

Chris,

First thing you'll need to find out what hitches will fit on your factory rails. My 2011 F350 was one of the first Fords with the factory rails and they would only work with the Ford hitch or the Reese Elite $eries. Since 2011, several others are now making hitches that fit. I have a B&W 20K currently. It does a decent job. It does have the double jaws like a Reese. I'm not crazy about that design. I've seen too many trucks with smashed rails from Reese jaws that weren't locked. My old hitch that used traditional bed rails was a RBW Lil'Rocker. I still have it, but it won't work with my current truck or trailer (only rated to 15K). It uses a slide bar to lock the pin in. No question if you were hitched and no possible way for it to pull open.

I don't remember if you have a short bed, but there are "slider" hitches that literally slide to the rear to give you more distance when  turning tight. My first 2 trucks were short beds and I never had one. Never really needed one, but for some, it's peace of mind.

Here's a link to the B&W I have now. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Chris,
> 
> First thing you'll need to find out what hitches will fit on your factory rails. My 2011 F350 was one of the first Fords with the factory rails and they would only work with the Ford hitch or the Reese Elite $eries. Since 2011, several others are now making hitches that fit. I have a B&W 20K currently. It does a decent job. It does have the double jaws like a Reese. I'm not crazy about that design. I've seen too many trucks with smashed rails from Reese jaws that weren't locked. My old hitch that used traditional bed rails was a RBW Lil'Rocker. I still have it, but it won't work with my current truck or trailer (only rated to 15K). It uses a slide bar to lock the pin in. No question if you were hitched and no possible way for it to pull open.
> 
> I don't remember if you have a short bed, but there are "slider" hitches that literally slide to the rear to give you more distance when  turning tight. My first 2 trucks were short beds and I never had one. Never really needed one, but for some, it's peace of mind.
> 
> Here's a link to the B&W I have now.
> 
> j



No the truck has an 8 foot bed, so it is not important that it be a slider hitch, and yes it will need to be a 18 or 20k rating.


----------



## dmaxphil

PaHunter said:


> So where are all my 5er guru's. What is the best hitch to use to pull your trailer with. I am now in the market for a hitch, rails are factory installed and I guess pretty standard ??



Do you have the Ford puck system? If so, B&W is the only hitch I'd consider.


----------



## PaHunter

dmaxphil said:


> Do you have the Ford puck system? If so, B&W is the only hitch I'd consider.


No my truck has rails installed, which seems are an industry standard. I ordered a BW Patriot 18K, that will be in next Monday.


----------



## tripleb

Question for the 5th wheel owners ... I have a Silverado 2500HD with the 6-1/2 foot bed. Is a sliding type 5th wheel hitch necessary?


----------



## Teamubr

My first 2 trucks were short beds. I towed 5ers for a combined decade with them and never was in a position I needed one. My first truck, I had the hitch rails mounted to the rear a couple of inches. The second truck had the rails right over the rear axle (where they say to mount them).

If you have tight spaces you will be routinely going or parking it at home, it would be handy. Some get a slider simply for peace of mind, saying you never know when you might need it. I'm too cheap for the once in a thousand situations. And again, never needed one in 10 years of short beds.

j


----------



## DavidH

I have a 2500HD with the 6-1/2' bed.  I do not have a slider and so far have never needed one.  We currently have a over-cab rack that comes up from the front of the bed, which takes about another 6" of space.  The 5th wheel gets closer now, but I just keep a closer eye on it.  So far, so good.  Everyone's situation is different, but we have not been in places that tight.


----------



## Nevaland

We have a 2500hd with 6 1/2' bed and a sliding hitch but with the design of our front cap we have never had to pull the slider.  I was using a Curt slider until recently upgrading to a Demco Autoslider.  Haven't used the new hitch but super impressed with the quality of the build.  I think each individual setup is different - hitch, pin box, cap on 5er.  Kind of trial and error with someone closely watching until the truck is at almost 90 degrees or the trailer is going to hit the truck.  I can get mine almost 90 degrees but it was always to close for comfort for me which is why I upgraded to an autoslider.  Also the levelness of the ground can have an effect as well.  Much to consider and take into consideration.  My uncle creased his F350 on both sides of his cab from his set up.  It can happen but like I said many factors involved.  Good luck with it!!


----------



## PaHunter

This is the new 5er ready to home from the dealer.


----------



## 2goofycampers

The new truck came in, only took 5 weeks.


----------



## 2goofycampers

We are gonna need some side steps, hitch receiver step and mud flaps. Anyone know a reasonable & dependable site for these?


----------



## PaHunter

Try RVUpgrades.com, they have good prices, ship quickly. I have used them for the last few years and been very happy with them.


----------



## tripleb

2goofycampers said:


> We are gonna need some side steps, hitch receiver step and mud flaps. Anyone know a reasonable & dependable site for these?



Can't help you with the running boards but http://www.weathertech.com/ has the other stuff.


----------



## Teamubr

Chris and Denise,

Nice new acquisitions. They both look great. Chris may need to find a new site at GSP to fit that monster. Nah, you'll fit just like me. Trailer pushed way back. Truck in the grass. No problem.

j


----------



## Barney Fife

Its been a month or two since I was here last. Obviously, no Fort trips planned so not as much to talk about. But I too picked up a new tow vehicle recently. Sold the 2015 F350 and flew from NC to Ohio to pick up this F450. 









No Fort trips coming up but three Myrtle Beach trips and two lake trips planned for the summer. I'm ready to go....


----------



## PaHunter

Barney Fife said:


> Its been a month or two since I was here last. Obviously, no Fort trips planned so not as much to talk about. But I too picked up a new tow vehicle recently. Sold the 2015 F350 and flew from NC to Ohio to pick up this F450.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Fort trips coming up but three Myrtle Beach trips and two lake trips planned for the summer. I'm ready to go....



Very nice set up there. Small and quaint just like mine.


----------



## sirenia88

Barney Fife said:


> Its been a month or two since I was here last. Obviously, no Fort trips planned so not as much to talk about. But I too picked up a new tow vehicle recently. Sold the 2015 F350 and flew from NC to Ohio to pick up this F450.
> 
> No Fort trips coming up but three Myrtle Beach trips and two lake trips planned for the summer. I'm ready to go....



Dang! That thing is bigger than my house!  Given the truck and the trailer probably pretty close to my mortgage too.  Have fun and good luck with the new ride.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I still have the same tow vehicle my lovely degovernmentzied 08 F-450, but I've upgraded fifthwheels to a new Voltage 3990 toy hauler. 





This was pick up day in the rain, 





Don't think I'll be using the patio much at the Fort.


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I still have the same tow vehicle my lovely degovernmentzied 08 F-450, but I've upgraded fifthwheels to a new Voltage 3990 toy hauler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was pick up day in the rain,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think I'll be using the patio much at the Fort.



Very Nice, Need a pretty deep site for that patio...


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> Very Nice, Need a pretty deep site for that patio...



Yeah, maybe the overflow lot or a pasture perhaps.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Yeah, maybe the overflow lot or a pasture perhaps.


I was thinking an airport. They have lots of long straight strips of concrete where he might fit. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

You guys have some seriously cool rigs.


----------



## tiggerdad

dmaxphil said:


> You guys have some seriously cool rigs.



Yeah, they do don't they.  Mine is 35 feet and when I camp anywhere near Teamubr or Southalabama5er I suddenly realize how BamaEd must feel.  However, Ed doesn't seem to mind and probably laughs himself to sleep knowing he can park his in his garage and the rest of us need a large barn.  Or, in the case of Teamubr and Southalabama5er, an airport hangar.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Airport hanger? Good idea


----------



## bama_ed

Small is beautiful (and cheap and easy to tow).  But I do enjoy following this thread.    Ed


----------



## 2goofycampers

Added side and hitch step and mud flaps yesterday.


----------



## tiggerdad

Looking good Denise


----------



## PaHunter

Hmm Denise, you have me thinking a rear step, i could re-purpose a hitch without a ball....just for that step up when I need to get in my bed. Maybe even weld a small plate on there....idea's floating now.


----------



## 2goofycampers

PaHunter said:


> Hmm Denise, you have me thinking a rear step, i could re-purpose a hitch without a ball....just for that step up when I need to get in my bed. Maybe even weld a small plate on there....idea's floating now.


We liked this one also....
http://www.gorhino.com/Step-N-Tow
AND they have some that plug into your 4 pin and light up!


----------



## tiggerdad

My F-250 has the "man step" built into the tailgate which helps a lot.  Of course that's if the tailgate is down.


----------



## snowmedic

Work built this one for my work truck. It is 2 in. tube steel 16 in. long and the step is 8 x21 in.  They built it for me because after replacing my leaf springs it made the rack on the truck 7'2" high.  It's a little difficult to get 30 2x12 on there without some assistance.


----------



## snowmedic

Just looked at that picture, my truck is dirty from the constant rain we have been getting, that and I have to drive through the mud to get to the job site.


----------



## 2goofycampers

snowmedic said:


> Just looked at that picture, my truck is dirty from the constant rain we have been getting, that and I have to drive through the mud to get to the job site.


That's what a truck is for, to get dirty.


----------



## Teamubr

2goofycampers said:


> That's what a truck is for, to get dirty.


I'm glad you said that. My poor truck hasn't been clean since 2014. 

j


----------



## snowmedic

2goofycampers said:


> That's what a truck is for, to get dirty.



But, yours is sooooo shiny.


----------



## PaHunter

For all those towing 5er's, air ride pin boxes worth the money, or not ??


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> For all those towing 5er's, air ride pin boxes worth the money, or not ??



I think the new camper that @SouthAlabama5er just bought has one.  Maybe he'll be able to give some input on it.  Anybody else?


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> I think the new camper that @SouthAlabama5er just bought has one.  Maybe he'll be able to give some input on it.  Anybody else?



I mean we haven't towed a long distance yet, at most two hours, and I don't notice any real chucking with our set up. I can feel the trailer tug occasionally, but I would expect that, as it is a lot of weight behind me. Not like our TT which was half the weight with the same TV. Just curious as to others experience with them, we have considered one, but it would have to wait until next year. 
Just curious to if it makes a dramatic difference in the handling or feel as one is towing.


----------



## Teamubr

We had one on the toy hauler for the race team. We played with various air pressure settings but never noticed any difference. My current 5er is the same length as the toy hauler but weighs about 2500 lbs less (14,400 vs 17,000 ish with the Miata in the back). My current 5er does not have an air ride hitch and I can't tell the difference. Same truck. Same hitch.

I know people that swear by them. Based on my experience, I'd spend the money somewhere else.

j


----------



## Clifton Tesh

PaHunter said:


> For all those towing 5er's, air ride pin boxes worth the money, or not ??


1 guy i work with swears his life by it, another guy says they aren't worth the money.

Guy who says it's not worth the money is constantly towing cross country.


----------



## MatthewBGwarsh

Just started listing to the Dis unplugged podcast about a month ago. My first visit to the boards was about an hour ago. This was the first thread I settled on and I fell in love. Just got my first diesel about 2 months ago. It's a 2015 F250 XLT with a 6.7L. I love it. I use it to tow my concession trailer (food truck) and it does a great job. Can't wait to get my first camper and camp at Disney World!


----------



## tiggerdad

MatthewBGwarsh said:


> Just started listing to the Dis unplugged podcast about a month ago. My first visit to the boards was about an hour ago. This was the first thread I settled on and I fell in love. Just got my first diesel about 2 months ago. It's a 2015 F250 XLT with a 6.7L. I love it. I use it to tow my concession trailer (food truck) and it does a great job. Can't wait to get my first camper and camp at Disney World!


Welcome aboard and don't be a stranger.  We're always willing to help, especially the Super Duty folks.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Welcome aboard and don't be a stranger.  We're always willing to help, especially the Super Duty folks.



Duramax !!!


----------



## 2goofycampers

I bought one of these for Frank... he loves it and so does DS.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...qmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4y4o5koej2_e


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> Duramax !!!


Super Duty!!!


----------



## Clifton Tesh

tiggerdad said:


> Super Duty!!!


DETROIT!


----------



## Clifton Tesh

The wife told me I have to get a truck. She wants a 33ft TT and we can't tow that with the mini-van.

I'm not gonna argue with her... Mainly because I've been wanting one forever but always been told no, but also cause now she thinks it's her decision so she can't complain about it too much. 

Seeing as I work on diesel all day, I'd really like a diesel; my wallet has a different opinion. 

Found me a 2015 Silverado 2500 4x4 crew cab with a 6.0 in it for only $25,000. I've got some mini buses that run the 6.0 and they do great but I'm not sure on how towing with a 6.0 would be. Any one got any experience?


----------



## peg110

Clifton Tesh said:


> Found me a 2015 Silverado 2500 4x4 crew cab with a 6.0 in it for only $25,000.


I don't know, but that seems like a low price.

I have a 2014 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab with 50K+ miles on it and KBB (for "Trade in") in "Good" condition is still mid $30's. Now granted it's the Lariat model, but I would have thought even a moderately equipped 2015 2500 Silverado (4x4 crew cab) would be close to that, unless it's really high miles or in rough shape.  Also mine is GAS as well. I too would like a Diesel, but my wallet must have talked with yours, because I think it has the same opinion.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

peg110 said:


> I don't know, but that seems like a low price.
> 
> I have a 2014 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab with 50K+ miles on it and KBB (for "Trade in") in "Good" condition is still mid $30's. Now granted it's the Lariat model, but I would have thought even a moderately equipped 2015 2500 Silverado (4x4 crew cab) would be close to that, unless it's really high miles or in rough shape.  Also mine is GAS as well. I too would like a Diesel, but my wallet must have talked with yours, because I think it has the same opinion.



LOL, our wallets probably sat down and had a beer together! 

It is a great price, I work for the state of NC so we get incentives through Chevrolet and Ford since the government buys so many trucks from them. We also have a state employees lot where we can get brand new trucks that didn't sell in their model year.


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> I don't know, but that seems like a low price.
> 
> I have a 2014 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab with 50K+ miles on it and KBB (for "Trade in") in "Good" condition is still mid $30's.


That's because your comparing a Ford. KBB understands the value of a Chevy. 

Clifton,

The gasser 6.0 should pull a 33 ft TT fine. Expect it to drop out of OD more than a diesel and make sure it has a decent trans cooler. The concern will be if it will tow the next camper.

I started pulling a 20 ft hybrid with an Explorer. Bought a V8 explorer and traded the hybrid for a 33 ft TT. Traded the Explorer on a F250 diesel. With a "real" truck I could get a 5er. Traded the TT for a 30 ft bunk house with slides. Kept it for 13 years. But in the mean time, I went through 2 trucks and have a F350 dually diesel now, so the 13 year old 8000 lb 5er went for a 42 ft, 14,400 lb 5er.

See a pattern there?

j


----------



## Clifton Tesh

Lol, a 5th wheel is already in the plans, but those plans are 10 years down the road so we're aiming for what my wallet agrees with for now. 

Hopefully, if all goes well, Detroit will have their 4 cylinder released by then and I can find something to run it in.

I'm not a fan of a power stroke, duramax, or Cummins... I work on them everyday, I see how crappy they are. If I had to choose one of those to buy though, it would be the Cummins... But I'd never own a dodge and I'm not at all a fan of the V8 Cummins or any V diesel for that matter.

Diesel was designed for torque, you get the best torque from an in line setup. Unfortunately, unless you buy a dodge, your only option for diesel on small trucks is a V engine...unless you go really small and get a duramax 4 Cylinder.


----------



## tripleb

Clifton Tesh,

I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD/6.0L/Crew Cab/LTZ/Z71 that I use to pull a 31' fifth wheel. Pulls it just fine, except for the gas mileage. I get between 7 - 9 MPG  Anyway, the thing you should be careful of is the Cargo Carrying Capacity of the truck you buy. Take a look at the yellow sticker on the driver side door pillar. The same sticker that gives tire information. It will list the CCC. Using that number, start subtracting loaded tongue weight, weight of WD hitch, full gas tank, and equipment/bodies in the vehicle. RVer's can overload a tow vehicle pretty quick.

Here's a pic of my rig:


----------



## Teamubr

Clifton Tesh said:


> If I had to choose one of those to buy though, it would be the Cummins...


I have to agree. Although my current 6.7 PSD is pretty good. First (of 3 different diesels) truck I haven't felt a need to mod.

If I was putting a perfect non-commercial truck together, it would probably be a Ford crew cab chassis, Cummins I-6 and the Allison trans.

j


----------



## Clifton Tesh

Teamubr said:


> I have to agree. Although my current 6.7 PSD is pretty good. First (of 3 different diesels) truck I haven't felt a need to mod.
> 
> If I was putting a perfect non-commercial truck together, it would probably be a Ford crew cab chassis, Cummins I-6 and the Allison trans.
> 
> j



I can say I've heard wonderful things about the 67 but i haven't personally worked with one yet .

I couldn't agree with you more on the perfect build, unless detroit starts making an engine for small trucks. We have a Detroit at work that we run in parades and stuff, it's a1967 (in a GMC Buffalo bus), and the thing has over 2 million on it and runs perfect. We have quite a few of the 6.2 detroit's from the 80's still on the road running like they're brand new. I love me a detroit.


----------



## Teamubr

Clifton Tesh said:


> I can say I've heard wonderful things about the 67 but i haven't personally worked with one yet.


That's a good thing. I have a 2011. First year of the 6.7. I'll turn over 100,000 miles this weekend when I go up to Indiana Dunes. And 70% of that has been towing 16-21,000 lb race car haulers or my measly 14,400 lb 5er. The only issues I've had are a fan clutch and a DEF injector. The DEF injector would have been covered under warranty, but I was 6 months beyond the 5 years.

My first truck had the 7.3. Once I modded it up over 800 lb/ft of torque, it was a nice truck. It sadly developed electrical issues at 180,000 miles and I mistakenly traded it on a new 08 with the 6.4 during a race trip in Daytona. I hated that truck from the first tow. First year of the DEF/DPF engines. OK power, but HORRIBLE fuel mileage. Kept it less than 3 years and traded on my current truck figuring the new 6.7 had to be better than the 6.4. I was right. As much power as my modded 7.3 and much more refined. Nice transmission too. Not an Allison, but OK.

j


----------



## PaHunter

https://rvingwithmarkpolk.com/2012/03/21/caution-why-truck-tow-ratings-dont-add-up/

This site has a lot of towing information on it about towing, weights, etc... just as an fyi.


----------



## tripleb

That's good info PaHunter. I personally believe that there is a very large number of RVers towing beyond the capacity of their tow vehicle.


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> That's good info PaHunter. I personally believe that there is a very large number of RVers towing beyond the capacity of their tow vehicle.



Sadly the salesman is only interested in selling you the biggest most expensive unit. He is not putting his family in the vehicle, and chances are slim that if your brakes fail he will be around with his family.He will not be around when the trailer starts to wag the tow vehicle. Last campground we were at saw a SUV towing a hybrid camper, no WDH, was dangerously light in the front and at max capacity or over.  I know some people that tow at their max, and some above it. I have always wanted to tow safely, for my families sake and for the sake of others we encounter on the road. 
One of our upgrades next year will be changing out the brakes on the trailer to disc brakes. It is expensive, but will help stop all that weight better.


----------



## tripleb

Yep, I have seen similar overloaded vehicles ... a few months ago, we had a guy with wife and two children, pull in next to us with a 39' TT being pulled by a 1/2 ton Dodge. If that "load" wasn't scary enough, he had a single point attachment bumper mount bike rake on the TT carrying 4 bikes ( 2 adult/2 children's ). They had stopped for the night on their way to Disney.

You're thoughts of disk brakes are spot on although I am sure you're not overloaded. The problem with overloaded tow vehicles is not necessarily pulling the load but rather stopping the load.


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> Yep, I have seen similar overloaded vehicles ... a few months ago, we had a guy with wife and two children, pull in next to us with a 39' TT being pulled by a 1/2 ton Dodge. If that "load" wasn't scary enough, he had a single point attachment bumper mount bike rake on the TT carrying 4 bikes ( 2 adult/2 children's ). They had stopped for the night on their way to Disney.
> 
> You're thoughts of disk brakes are spot on although I am sure you're not overloaded. The problem with overloaded tow vehicles is not necessarily pulling the load but rather stopping the load.



With the 3500 I can tow up to 22500lbs and am well within my limits payload wise on the truck also. Just like the disc brakes as an upgrade to the trailer as a helpful measure. We never tow with a full water tank, just our everyday stuff in trailer and food stuffs, so while we add some weight inside the trailer we are not maxing out the trailer weight either.  We have some more camping trip coming up and will check tire temps during those. Then we will be on the road to Disney, soon.


----------



## tripleb

Sounds like you got a handle on it PaHunter  Surprisingly, my 2015 Silverado 2500HD/Crew Cab/4WD/Regular bed 6'7" is close to max payload with our new FW. Max payload on my truck is 2728 lbs, although max towing is 13,000 conventional and 14,000 FW. My FW delivered weight is 7,945 lbs. That puts the pin weight slightly less than 2,000 lbs using the 25% rule (Jayco claims 1,580 lbs). So in theory, that leaves me about 728 lbs of payload. Not a whole lot considering the FW hitch weights 150 lbs and a full tank of gas weights around 300 lbs, I weight 178 lbs, and the wife wont say what she weights ;-)


----------



## Clifton Tesh

PaHunter said:


> Sadly the salesman is only interested in selling you the biggest most expensive unit. He is not putting his family in the vehicle, and chances are slim that if your brakes fail he will be around with his family.He will not be around when the trailer starts to wag the tow vehicle. Last campground we were at saw a SUV towing a hybrid camper, no WDH, was dangerously light in the front and at max capacity or over.  I know some people that tow at their max, and some above it. I have always wanted to tow safely, for my families sake and for the sake of others we encounter on the road.
> One of our upgrades next year will be changing out the brakes on the trailer to disc brakes. It is expensive, but will help stop all that weight better.



The sales people around us will not sell you something over your tow rating. One of the lots won't sell you something that's over 85 percent of your tow rating. I respect and admire them for that. They also will not let you leave the lot without weight distribution if your vehicle's manufacturer requires weight distribution.


----------



## bama_ed

Question here to help me plan for the future-

My 2005 Chevy Suburban is doing fine with over 200k miles now but I know it won't last forever.  I am looking for suggestions on a future tow vehicle with the understanding that my little Aliner doesn't require a lot of tow muscle.  My Suburban is rated for 8,000# and a minivan, properly equipped, can pull 3,000#.  Is there something in-between that I could consider for the future?  I don't need to pay for a vehicle that can do 8k-10k# (got the Suburban during the Boy Scout years hauling backpacks and boys, lots of 'em-it did the job) but is there something in the 5,000# range?  Expense seems to follow the weight limit with both going up as the numbers get bigger.  I'd like to keep them smaller.

FWIW my Aliner has a 3300# gross weight so I don't think I would need more than 5k# or 6k# tow rate.

What say you?

Bama Ed

PS - I would plan to buy a few years used (4-5 yrs)


----------



## Clifton Tesh

bama_ed said:


> Question here to help me plan for the future-
> 
> My 2005 Chevy Suburban is doing fine with over 200k miles now but I know it won't last forever.  I am looking for suggestions on a future tow vehicle with the understanding that my little Aliner doesn't require a lot of tow muscle.  My Suburban is rated for 8,000# and a minivan, properly equipped, can pull 3,000#.  Is there something in-between that I could consider for the future?  I don't need to pay for a vehicle that can do 8k-10k# (got the Suburban during the Boy Scout years hauling backpacks and boys, lots of 'em-it did the job) but is there something in the 5,000# range?  Expense seems to follow the weight limit with both going up as the numbers get bigger.  I'd like to keep them smaller.
> 
> FWIW my Aliner has a 3300# gross weight so I don't think I would need more than 5k# or 6k# tow rate.
> 
> What say you?
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - I would plan to buy a few years used (4-5 yrs)



Get you a Chevy Colorado or Toyota tundra, when properly equipped they have a 7000# tow rating.


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## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> Question here to help me plan for the future-
> 
> My 2005 Chevy Suburban is doing fine with over 200k miles now but I know it won't last forever.  I am looking for suggestions on a future tow vehicle with the understanding that my little Aliner doesn't require a lot of tow muscle.  My Suburban is rated for 8,000# and a minivan, properly equipped, can pull 3,000#.  Is there something in-between that I could consider for the future?  I don't need to pay for a vehicle that can do 8k-10k# (got the Suburban during the Boy Scout years hauling backpacks and boys, lots of 'em-it did the job) but is there something in the 5,000# range?  Expense seems to follow the weight limit with both going up as the numbers get bigger.  I'd like to keep them smaller.
> 
> FWIW my Aliner has a 3300# gross weight so I don't think I would need more than 5k# or 6k# tow rate.
> 
> What say you?
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - I would plan to buy a few years used (4-5 yrs)


A Toyota 4Runner like Stacey's is rated at 5000#.

https://www.toyota.com/4runner/features/weights_capacities/8642/8646/8670/8672


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## tripleb

Clifton Tesh said:


> The sales people around us will not sell you something over your tow rating. One of the lots won't sell you something that's over 85 percent of your tow rating. I respect and admire them for that. They also will not let you leave the lot without weight distribution if your vehicle's manufacturer requires weight distribution.



Our Camping World has a book that they look at prior to purchase. Problem with the book is that it does not list payload, only tow rating. If you think about it, I could purchase a 13,999 lb FW that would meet their books tow rating for my truck (14,000 lb FW tow rating).


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## Teamubr

I generally steer clear of tow rating threads. They tend to go to the dark side pretty quick. That said, nice job keeping this one productive.

It is admirable that some dealers try to help out by not letting anyone purchase above 85% (or whatever number), but the only way to really tell if you are over/under on all the various weight limits manufacturers put on their vehicles is to put it on the scales loaded they way you would tow with it. Front axle, rear axle, combined weight, gross vehicle, hitch/tongue weight, payload, TT vs 5er, WD or not. Too much for most people to try comprehending. I even found one obscure listing for my 2nd F250 that said if the 5er hitch was mounted in front of the rear axle it was one number. Over or behind it was a lower number. It makes sense, but come on.

I won't even start in on how and where you put things in the trailer can dramatically effect all these numbers. We put 2 Mustangs and a bunch of tools and spares in a 48 ft enclosed car hauler. It came in around 21,000, under the tow capacity of my truck by a 1000 lbs or so. One of the Mustangs weighed about 300 lbs more than the other. We could alter the pin weight by 500 lbs or more depending on which car we put where in the trailer. The second car was over and behind the axles on the trailer. Putting the heavier car in the rear would pull several hundred pounds off the ball. No worries, it still had over 5,000 on it.

j


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## tripleb

Teamubr said:


> I generally steer clear of tow rating threads. They tend to go to the dark side pretty quick. That said, nice job keeping this one productive....


----------



## tripleb

Teamubr said:


> I generally steer clear of tow rating threads. They tend to go to the dark side pretty quick. That said, nice job keeping this one productive.
> 
> j



I generally steer clear also Teamubr but sometimes "things" need to be said, especially if someone is unsure of what's what.


----------



## PaHunter

bama_ed said:


> Question here to help me plan for the future-
> 
> My 2005 Chevy Suburban is doing fine with over 200k miles now but I know it won't last forever.  I am looking for suggestions on a future tow vehicle with the understanding that my little Aliner doesn't require a lot of tow muscle.  My Suburban is rated for 8,000# and a minivan, properly equipped, can pull 3,000#.  Is there something in-between that I could consider for the future?  I don't need to pay for a vehicle that can do 8k-10k# (got the Suburban during the Boy Scout years hauling backpacks and boys, lots of 'em-it did the job) but is there something in the 5,000# range?  Expense seems to follow the weight limit with both going up as the numbers get bigger.  I'd like to keep them smaller.
> 
> FWIW my Aliner has a 3300# gross weight so I don't think I would need more than 5k# or 6k# tow rate.
> 
> What say you?
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - I would plan to buy a few years used (4-5 yrs)



Well maybe by then there will be some of the new Colorado Diesels for sale, small engine supposed to have big power.


----------



## PaHunter

It is a family site, and we have kept it civilized and informative. Now i need to go find out if I have bug and tar remover, so I can wash my TV and get this stinking tree sap off of it. Anyone want 4 approximately 100 ft tall spruce trees ?? You dig them up, they are yours.....anyone....bueller....


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> Front axle, rear axle, combined weight, gross vehicle, hitch/tongue weight, payload, TT vs 5er, WD or not. Too much for most people to try comprehending.


.

Yeah... When we got our first TT, they asked if we had a Hitch.... "Well of course we do" I have had a hitch in some fashion ever since 1993. I have a 1 7/8" and a 2".... Errr.... What's a Weight Distributing hitch?

Yeah... DW is the one that purchased the first TT (Financed it of course) but we didn't realize we needed a WD hitch. Heck, I didn't even know what it was.... Well I found out though because it cost me almost $800 (Hitch, Sway bar, Electronic brake controller and Installation). Of course DW was "Tapped" with the down payment and the financing, so I had to step up and bite this one. (My credit card was not happy).

So fast forward to last year.... We "Upgraded" our trailer from the 27' TT to the 38' TT. So they asked about our Hitch. "Yup... We have a WD Hitch" No problem... right? Wrong..... My "spring bars" were only rated for 800 pounds (I guess that's 1 dollar a pound for when I purchased it?  ) but this trailer needed spring bars rated for 1000 pounds. Ugh!

Long story short a "Trade" of bars and the cost of ONE new bar (but we did get 2) was all we had to pay. 

So I have now learned more about hitches and other "Tow" stuff then I have ever wanted to know. Not that I am complaining, but to your comment is certainly on point.


----------



## PaHunter

I saw somewhere the other day someone welcoming a person to RV'ing. They said welcome to an expensive hobby, and they are right.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> I saw somewhere the other day someone welcoming a person to RV'ing. They said welcome to an expensive hobby, and they are right.


But still better than boating or racing. Here's a couple of funny jokes to drive the point home.

Do you know what B.O.A.T. stands for? Break Out Another Thousand.

Do you know how to triple the price of an item? Put the word "marine" in front of it.
Do you know how to multiply the price by 5? Put the word "racing" in front of it.
Do you know how to multiply the price by 100? Put the word "medical" in front of it.



I'll take RV'ing stuff any day.

j


----------



## tripleb

I can attest to the boat and racing expenses ( R/C racing ).


----------



## PaHunter

So here are some pictures of my tires upon returning from camping the other day. These are thermal images, with white being hotter areas, orange being average, black being colder. 
      
Highest temperature I could find was about 136 degrees, outside temp was 86 and it was sunny. This was after towing for 90 minutes.


----------



## PaHunter

Just lucky the tow vehicle did not flip, and the propane tanks did not leak, explode or catch fire.


----------



## tripleb

PaHunter said:


> So here are some pictures of my tires upon returning from camping the other day. These are thermal images, with white being hotter areas, orange being average, black being colder.
> View attachment 256136 View attachment 256137 View attachment 256138 View attachment 256139 View attachment 256140 View attachment 256141
> Highest temperature I could find was about 136 degrees, outside temp was 86 and it was sunny. This was after towing for 90 minutes.



Those tire colors don't go with our color scheme on our FW  PaHunter, have you done some research on what that means and if the temps are OK ?


----------



## Teamubr

Nice pics Chris. What did you use to take those? 

136 is a decent temp. We would see 150-180's in the mid-summer heat on the race trailers TMPS.

j


----------



## tripleb

PaHunter said:


> Just lucky the tow vehicle did not flip, and the propane tanks did not leak, explode or catch fire.



Once sway starts, you have to get control of it IMMEDIATELY ! It's hard to tell but it doesn't look as if there is a WDH.


----------



## Teamubr

tripleb said:


> PaHunter, have you done some research on what that means and if the temps are OK ?


I just did a Google search and can't find anything specific to truck, trailer, RV tires. I found one unsubstantiated claim of "less than 180". I can give you tons of tire temp data on race tires (135-155 and even across the tread, if anyone cares), but the construction and use is much different. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> Those tire colors don't go with our color scheme on our FW  PaHunter, have you done some research on what that means and if the temps are OK ?



Based on my previous trailer and a spot IR thermometer, yes those temps are about average for us towing.


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Nice pics Chris. What did you use to take those?
> 
> 136 is a decent temp. We would see 150-180's in the mid-summer heat on the race trailers TMPS.
> 
> j



I have a Seek handheld thermal imager, it has a camera function allows me to capture what I am looking at. I also have a thermal scope, that allows me to scan and can look at larger items like the whole trailer, but it does not have a camera function. The 136 temp was not too bad, was actually looking for abnormal hot spots. Gladly did not find any.


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> Once sway starts, you have to get control of it IMMEDIATELY ! It's hard to tell but it doesn't look as if there is a WDH.



No it does not appear that they had a WDH. That may have helped, may .


----------



## sirenia88

The video of the trailer flipping on the Garden State Parkway was filmed by a friend of a friend.  The guy that filmed it posted it on a friend's facebook page.  I commented yeah.  The operator didn't slow down fast enough.  Also the trailer looked a bit oversized for the tow vehicle which means there were less vehicle to assist in the control.  Probably should had a WDH too.   I know in my F250 I have the Trailer tow package.  It has an anti sway function.  I was towing out to Knoebel's one time without the bars but with a sway control on the hitch.  I hit a bump in the road and I got a small amount of sway in the combo.  The productivity screen lit up with sway warnings and the truck started to immediately slow down as I was just started a slow down procedure.  Within I would say about 200 feet which would have been about 2 seconds or so.  The whole combo was under control and with in 10 seconds back up to speed.  DW and I were shocked and relieved how quickly everything took place and how well the truck performed.   I know my late model Super Duty folks will be glad to know this feature exists in their trucks too.  I am pretty sure it has been a standard feature since the MY 2008 and forward.  The built in sway control function with the TBC package.  Check it out.  I don't know what the other manufacturers offer when it comes to this function if they have built in TBCs.


----------



## tripleb

sirenia88 said:


> ...  The built in sway control function with the TBC package.  Check it out.  I don't know what the other manufacturers offer when it comes to this function if they have built in TBCs.



My 2015 Silverado 2500HD has the anti-sway system "built in". I was never in a situation with my previous TT where it was activated though.


----------



## tiggerdad

Aight, I'm gonna vent and laugh about something here.

Mirrors on the bigger trucks are made to be let out.  The point is to get you where you can see around your wide trailer.  Now, when the mirrors are out it can make things kinda narrow on small roads but you gotta have it.

UNLESS you aren't pulling anything.  Then having your mirrors out is just an annoyance and sometimes danger.

Today, while riding the tight curvy road from Townsend to Gatlinburg I found myself behind a Dodge 2500 with his mirrors out...not pulling anything.  I made a comment to my wife about it but we followed on.  Now, some of these curves are rounding the carved out rock which you can't see around and vehicles come around suddenly.

Well, at one of those curves...it happened.  The Dodge with his Dumbo ears let out met a F-350 with his ears let out too.

Kabam!  Plastic mirror parts going everywhere and both of them locking up the brakes.  Which caused everyone to have to stop.  No way to pull around them.  They finally pulled forward, the Dodge pulling over at the next lookout.

Just something to keep in mind if you have your mirrors extended or have the mirror attachments on.


----------



## JETS70

tiggerdad said:


> Well, at one of those curves...it happened. The Dodge with his Dumbo ears let out met a F-350 with his ears let out too.



I know I shouldn't laugh but your right, when you are not towing......slide those mirrors in. And your adjective to describe the Dodge mirrors.........well.........I just cant help myself.......


----------



## PaHunter

When not towing i slide mine in for that reason. That is funny.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Even when we are parked we use the break away feature to push them in.


----------



## sirenia88

@tiggerdad  The thing is with the RAM it's cool to keep the side mirrors out and up at all times. However right there, the Ford mirror depending on the year model and mirror level (power options) just cost upwards of about 1000 bucks. The Ram is probably going to be cheaper around 500 or so.


----------



## tiggerdad

I mean, I hate it for both of them, I really do.  However, it could have been easily avoided.


----------



## sirenia88

Well the trailer is in the shop to get fixed.  The tongue needs some TLC.  While the wife and I are waiting for that bill, we are now looking at the next trailer.   It depends on how high the bill is and what we can pay down on the trailer.   Hershey RV show is in about 6 weeks from now.


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> Well the trailer is in the shop to get fixed.  The tongue needs some TLC.  While the wife and I are waiting for that bill, we are now looking at the next trailer.   It depends on how high the bill is and what we can pay down on the trailer.   Hershey RV show is in about 6 weeks from now.



Hershey Show will be here before you know it, and a few Diser's will be in attendance.


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## peg110

Shhhhhh!  

This thread is being too loud.


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## sirenia88

Well the trailer's tongue was fixed.  We were out at Knoebel's for a few days.  Since most of the locals are back to school and work, it felt like you had the park to yourself.  It was nice.  I did have an unplanned repair on the tow vehicle.  I noticed a different sound coming from the front brakes. Turns out I replaced front pads and a driver's side caliper.  Nothing I could not handle but it was right after I picked the trailer up from storage and right before we left.  Our dispatch time was delayed by a couple of hours.  However, the trailer towed well and I got decent gas mileage going out.  It came in around 8.3 MPG and back home we hit 9.0 MPG.  So I was really happy with that in the hills of PA.  My guess that driver's side front had been acting up for awhile.


----------



## peg110

sirenia88 said:


> Well the trailer's tongue was fixed.  We were out at Knoebel's for a few days.  Since most of the locals are back to school and work, it felt like you had the park to yourself.  It was nice.  I did have an unplanned repair on the tow vehicle.  I noticed a different sound coming from the front brakes. Turns out I replaced front pads and a driver's side caliper.  Nothing I could not handle but it was right after I picked the trailer up from storage and right before we left.  Our dispatch time was delayed by a couple of hours.  However, the trailer towed well and I got decent gas mileage going out.  It came in around 8.3 MPG and back home we hit 9.0 MPG.  So I was really happy with that in the hills of PA.  My guess that driver's side front had been acting up for awhile.


Glad it wasn't too major. 

We Love Knoebels. Their Campground, though.... Maybe not so much. Kind of "Cramped" when we had our 27 footer.... Now we are pushing 38 feet, we have not had that one there. Granted we only stayed their during the "BUSY" time. It is a "Nice" location though relative to the park, which we also love. Of course, for us, Knoebels is an easy "Day Trip" since it's a little over an hour drive for us, so we don't need to do the Campground (although, it's still nice to enjoy the park in the evening and not have to rush out to get home).

Just a side note to Knoebels. Not sure if you buy the tickets or the Wrist band. For us it depends (since DW and I only ride on a select few rides, we almost never get the Wrist band). Anyway, you can get a "$20" Ticket book for "$16" (prior to about Labor Day) by stopping at a customer service counter at a "Weis Market" (there is one in Bloomsburg area) and getting them there. This is great since the tickets NEVER expire. If you go there frequently, it's a good choice. 

They also sell the tickets at the parks for $18 (for the $20 book) during the week. (and/or during less busy times) but weekends is almost always full price ticket costs.


----------



## sirenia88

@peg110 You need to book for the Canadian Provinces.  Those handle your big rig.  One of the trailers we were looking at was at 37 foot which to me is just too much.  I am trying to turn my wife around to the a similar or slightly smaller.  I know you are basically in the backyard for Knoebel's.  We are just over 2 hours with no traffic.  It's usually a nice ride out to the park.   We have done Hershey as a day trip but we usually leave around 5 or 6 to make it home by 10 with a dinner stop.   We have done the Knoebel's single day trip but its usually too much by the time we leave at 10 PM and there is a 2 hour ride home.  We did that several years ago.  It was fun and nice.  

Weis Markets.  yup I know that trick.  We usually buy about 10 vouchers.  However we have scratch offs we get going to various RV shows.  Last year we had 3 free ride band passes.  Plus several mini golf and slide upgrades for the pool.  It was great.  This year we handed off our extras to people standing in line getting the ride bands.  We did get a sun down special on Tuesday.  We paid $28 but we didn t have our spare coupons since we didn't think we were going to be at the park until closing.  We did all the coasters 3 times or more. We broke even by 630 PM after buying them around 430.  We literally had no lines any were except Flying Turns or the Bumper cars.   We still used about 20 bucks in ride tickets.  Now when we go there for Hallow fun, we plan buying ride bands both days since they will be crazy cheap.  Last year, we won at Bingo and got 2 free bands plus a ton of ride tickets and food.   That was a cheap weekend between the park and the campground.


----------



## WeCampDisney

Howdy ya'll. I thought I would share our news about our RV downsizing. We recently sold the class A. We have a GMC Acadia which hopefully will be our tow vehicle. Yea I know it's not a great choice usually. We have ordered a new Jayco Jay Flight 174BH. This is 21 feet bumper to hitch and weighs 2950 unloaded and a max 3500. It is 7 ft wide and 9 1/2 ft tall including ac. It has no slide out. I am going to get the Equalizer brand WDH, rated 600 lb tongue weight. The travel weight of the trailer will be about 3400 lbs. The recommended 12% tongue weight is 410 lbs. I will load the trailer and adjust the load, weigh it to achieve this target. The 410 lbs plus the height of the hitch head will be about 475 lbs. the Acadia has the factory tow package. The receiver hitch is rated at 600 lbs max. The max tow rating is 5200lbs. The gross combined weight rating is 10200 lbs. The Acadia, passengers, loaded trailer, etc will be 9000 lbs or less. On paper it should tow fine, at least on relatively flat roads (no mountains). We have had two travel trailers in the past so I do have a lot of experience. We will test the rig out here in north east Texas which is typical of most any terrain from here to the Fort. If the Acadia seems to struggle I will sell my older Jeep Cherokee and get a pickup. We have a 2 week trip planned for next year late April and early May. Highlights are 3 nights at the Fort, 3 nights at Geiger Key Marina And RV Park near Key West, and on the way home 2 nights at Henderson State Park in Destin. I will update after towing in October. The trailer is scheduled to be built in the last week of September. For anyone interested, the trailer is the smallest, lightest bunkhouse on the market. We wanted a small camper for the wife and I and have bunks for our 2 small granddaughters to go with us occasionally. We wanted a traditional bathroom (no toilet in the shower), and did not want a pop up or a hybrid. This Jayco fit the bill perfectly for our needs. I have read on other forums, folks pulling larger, heavier trailers than ours with an Acadia and doing good. Oh yea, one more thing, I am installing a ScanGauge ll for monitoring the transmission temp.


----------



## Teamubr

Congrats Benton.

That sounds like a pretty good combo. Let me know how you like the Keys camping. I've been to Key West and the lower keys many times and have always wanted to camp.

j


----------



## tripleb

Benton, Congratulations on your new outdoor adventure "home". Generally, folks don't downsize  but, you have to do what your comfortable doing. We went the other way, starting off with a 18' TT and trading for a 31' FW


----------



## snowmedic

tiggerdad said:


> Then having your mirrors out is just an annoyance and sometimes danger.



Guilty.   I was at a job site a few weeks ago, with my 3500 work truck, it seems like I am always pulling a trailer so I leave my mirrors out.  Anyway, I didn't have a trailer and there was no parking on the job site, small area, so I parked along a fairly busy street away from the job.  Finished pouring concrete, walked back to my truck and what the ****,  pieces of mirror housing on the ground, and the mirror hanging by the wires.  they are heated mirrors with the turn signal in the glass.  Didn't find any other pieces laying around so not sure what damage it did to the other vehicle.  Called the shop and they had it replaced within 2 days.


----------



## tiggerdad

We'll Dang, hate that Vince.  At least it wasn't your personal vehicle.  This the same truck that you built that torpedo proof step on the back of?  If so, you could of fabricated a new mirror out of I-beam and stainless steal.

You know, kinda like the 6 Million Dollar Man, only a truck instead.


----------



## snowmedic

I do try and take care of my work truck.  It is a '07 with 260000 miles on it.  Does not burn a drop of oil.  The only real issue I had after I got it was the transmission needed replacing at 190000. Other guys at work are constently getting in to accidents or needing new motors.


----------



## Badger Brent

We tested the waters with camping in a pop up for two years. We even did a trip to FW January 2015!  Sold pop up and just purchased a 2008 3/4 Suburban.  Kids are grown and were looking for a TT under 30ft, 1 slide, no bunks, toral weight loaded around 7500.  I think ive flopped on which TT to get over a dozen times. My gut takes me back to a Keystone 24rkpr. Closest dealer unfortunately is a Camping World. Other pick is a Sporttrek smaller dealer 8 miles from house. Any preferences to either TT or dealing with CW?


----------



## 2goofycampers

BB, here is a thread about CW.

https://www.disboards.com/threads/stay-away-from-camping-world.3632407/

Hopefully someone has an opinion on Sporttrek.


----------



## dmaxphil

I'm pretty familiar with the SportTrek. Quality of construction is inline with Sandpiper, Outback, Cougar, Spree Connect. It has laminated sidewalls and cheaper-built front and back walls and slide end walls. Venture RV is owned by KZ - which should provide better warranty service than Keystone. And I'm guessing any dealer should be better to deal with than Camping World.  The Bullet is a different animal - built to be much lighter so the floor would be thinner - and most likely laminated. Not really a concern, as most TTs are going to laminated floors now. Comparable products to the Bullet would be the Rockwood Ultra Lite, Open Range Ultra Lite, Grand Design Imagine, Jayco White Hawk. 

If I were in your shoes, I'd look for nearby Rockwood, Grand Design, Jayco or  Open Range dealers to directly compare to the Bullet before pulling the trigger. Having said all that, I'd own either of these trailers if the price was right.


----------



## sirenia88

dmaxphil said:


> I'm pretty familiar with the SportTrek. Quality of construction is inline with Sandpiper, Outback, Cougar, Spree Connect. It has laminated sidewalls and cheaper-built front and back walls and slide end walls. Venture RV is owned by KZ - which should provide better warranty service than Keystone. And I'm guessing any dealer should be better to deal with than Camping World.  The Bullet is a different animal - built to be much lighter so the floor would be thinner - and most likely laminated. Not really a concern, as most TTs are going to laminated floors now. Comparable products to the Bullet would be the Rockwood Ultra Lite, Open Range Ultra Lite, Grand Design Imagine, Jayco White Hawk.
> 
> If I were in your shoes, I'd look for nearby Rockwood, Grand Design, Jayco or  Open Range dealers to directly compare to the Bullet before pulling the trigger. Having said all that, I'd own either of these trailers if the price was right.



Venture and KZ are owned by Thor.  So is Keystone and Jayco.  Rockwood is Forst river.  Grand Design was just bought out by Winnibego earlier this year I believe.  However, I am with you about the Rockwood or Grand Designs.  That's what the DW and I are looking at for our next trailer.  When we were at the Hershey last week, she got to experience the Grand Designs first hand.  She too thought the trailer was well built.  Remember the trailer manufacturer(s) are going to Light weight so the "More capable" 1/2 ton market.  Personally I would make sure you have plenty of tow vehicle.  My rule of thumb is anything over 25 feet and 6000 pounds, 3/4 ton minium.  However you may not have a problem.  My current trailer was pulled by a 1/2 ton F150 and a 3/4 ton F25. Both gas engines. The difference in the tow was night and day.  The F150 could do it and did it.  However, there was that comfort level  in my mind.  The 250 was piece of mind plus knowing I coud upgrade to the next trailer safety was even better.

My advice is to look over any unit as many times as needed.  Sometimes going back for a second look might be the best option.  Make sure you are going to be comfortable towing whatever you getting.  Many of the larger trailers are getting in the upper 30s for length and upper 9s for weight.


----------



## Badger Brent

The suburban is a 2500. Were good for weight and i dont want anything over 27 or 28 if possible. Im searching grand design and rockwoods floorplans.


----------



## sirenia88

Well I lost my trailer parking for now.  The place I was keeping my trailer called and said I have until october 31st or last payment date to remove my trailer.  I don't know the full details but it sounds like place was sold very quickly.  It sucks neverless.   My wife started calling places around the area.  It turns out most of the storage places do not accept trailers for storage.  Those who do, wanted newer trailers and under 24 feet in length.  Local campgrounds do not offer trailer storage either.  Unfortunately my property is too small to store the trailer due to size.  If it was in this 24 foot range, I would just do it and live with it.    Then again if I could store my trailer on property, I would not be in this mess.  As of right now, my trailer is "homeless" I can park it at work for awhile.  A friend of mine has offer to keep it at his place until I can find a better location for storage since he lives just outside of the area where I would want to keep it. 10 minutes from my house instead of 35 minutes on a no traffic/ light traffic day.   I did tell the wife maybe this is a sign to start looking for another house.  I got the " don't start jumping to extremes" answer.


----------



## Teamubr

sirenia88 said:


> Well I lost my trailer parking for now.


That stinks. I was in a similar boat when I was keeping my old TT in the driveway. It was ok until I replaced it with a 5er. Apparently the neighbors were ok with a lower TT, but the taller 5er was too much. I'm fortunate that there are several storage places with 10 minutes that have campers. 

And I know people that have switched houses for less. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

I complain about the upkeep on my 100 acres (spraying, bush hogging, tree trimming) but I got plenty of room to store my stuff.  Funny how it works.  You want more land to have space but then when you get it you spend a lot of time and money on upkeep.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

sirenia88 said:


> Well I lost my trailer parking for now.



I worry about this in my own circumstance.  We have very few trailer storage options in our area and no capacity to keep it at home.  If our lot ever ceases to be an option for any reason, we very well may find ourselves in the 'store it 45 minutes away or get rid of it' category!


----------



## dmaxphil

Looking at maybe getting a new truck. For you Ford guys, a 2017 F-350 DRW XLT with a $63,685 MSRP.. Whats a good price?  Local dealer has it at $55,934 with $5,501 dealer discount, $1500 retail customer cash, and $750 Super duty customer cash. 

Also looking at a Ram Megacab with better options (Laramie) for only a couple of thousand more.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> pFor you Ford guys, a 2017 F-350 DRW XLT with a $63,685 MSRP.. Whats a good price?


I would think you could push it to at least $10k under MSRP. I bought my last 2 trucks with a Ford racer discount. My current 2011 F350 Lariat, 4x4, crewcab diesel stickered for about $58,500. I got it for $46 something. The Ford sanctioned racer discount was pretty good, but I'm sure they weren't losing money on them. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Thanks for the feedback. Stickers are insane now. Lariats, Laramies, Denali, LTZs all seem to be $70k plus.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Stickers are insane now. Lariats, Laramies, Denali, LTZs all seem to be $70k plus.


I about choked when I priced out a new one like I have now. It was over $68k sticker. Since I'm not towing around the country anymore, my next truck will be a used one. I'll let someone else enjoy the first $20,000 of it.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> I about choked when I priced out a new one like I have now. It was over $68k sticker. Since I'm not towing around the country anymore, my next truck will be a used one. I'll let someone else enjoy the first $20,000 of it.
> 
> j



Randy and I were talking about this not long ago and he sent me this picture.  I just about choked.  Who in the world buys this?


----------



## dmaxphil

Oh, it gets worse..


----------



## tripleb

Know what ya'll mean ... *sticker shock is real!
*
When I went 3/4 ton truck shopping last November, I "briefly" looked at new units and the prices were horrendous, especially considering it had been 11 years since my last new truck purchase. So, I turned my brain into used market search and found a very well equipped, low mileage, clean 2015. That year and a half depreciation knocked 20K off.


----------



## tiggerdad

Dang boys, you guys realize we could buy used semi trucks to pull our 5th wheels for less money?  I mean, big and bulky, but with a sleeper for kids and all it sure is tempting.


----------



## dmaxphil

tiggerdad said:


> Dang boys, you guys realize we could buy used semi trucks to pull our 5th wheels for less money?  I mean, big and bulky, but with a sleeper for kids and all it sure is tempting.



I would if I could fit in driveway without HOA throwing a fit.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Dang boys, you guys realize we could buy used semi trucks to pull our 5th wheels for less money?  I mean, big and bulky, but with a sleeper for kids and all it sure is tempting.



Might be my next one.....


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Dang boys, you guys realize we could buy used semi trucks to pull our 5th wheels for less money?  I mean, big and bulky, but with a sleeper for kids and all it sure is tempting.


A bunch of people were doing this on RV.net a few years ago. Apparently you can pick up a Class 7 Volvo with 250,000 miles on it (still good for another 150,000, at least) for $40k or so. They were selling off the tag axle on the rear and turning the sleeper into a crew cab. It would tow well over 20,000 lbs with tons of torque and get better fuel mileage than our non-commercial trucks. They also have an amazing turning cut compared to my F350 (i.e. can turn around an aircraft carrier in less space than my truck.) 
I may look into this for my next truck since I don't use mine for much else than towing.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Way ahead of ya Tiggerdad, I've been looking for a new "used" truck for a few months now, test drove a few now, will probably have one by GSP 18'. I can already see Teamubr, Tiggerdad, and Bama Ed and myself cruising down the beach


----------



## garneska

@SouthAlabama5er nice pic.  I popped in on this thread only because I saw you just posted. Had not heard from you in a while, so wanted to say hi.


----------



## bama_ed

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 278952
> 
> Way ahead of ya Tiggerdad, I've been looking for a new "used" truck for a few months now, test drove a few now, will probably have one by GSP 18'. I can already see Teamubr, Tiggerdad, and Bama Ed and myself cruising down the beach



I call SHOTGUN seat!    (tiggerdad and teamubr, you kids gotta sit in back and stay buckled up).

East bound and down... 

Bama Ed

PS - me too, Randy.  Howdy, long time no hear.


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> I call SHOTGUN seat!    (tiggerdad and teamubr, you kids gotta sit in back and stay buckled up).
> 
> East bound and down...
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - me too, Randy.  Howdy, long time no hear.



I got top bunk!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Yeah I've been kinda quite garneska, I've been checking on the board when I can, been so busy with two jobs, but I've been thinking about how nice it would be at the fort this time of year, nice and cool, wish I could go! Hope everyone is doing well, 

Ed,.... Roll Tide!


----------



## dmaxphil

Joined the Ford club tonight!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

dmaxphil said:


> Joined the Ford club tonight!





Welcome to the dark side! Now you gotta adjust your screen name to match.


----------



## dmaxphil

Was thinking about that.. think I'm stuck with it.


----------



## 2goofycampers

dmaxphil said:


> Was thinking about that.. think I'm stuck with it.


No changes unless it is to Cummins.  Congratulations on the new truck. Pics?


----------



## dmaxphil

2goofycampers said:


> No changes unless it is to Cummins.  Congratulations on the new truck. Pics?



Pic from last night when picking up. Went with a Lariat - lots of cool stuff to learn how to use.


----------



## tiggerdad

Ooooo!  Nice!

Truck looks good there Lariatphil, er, sorry, I mean Dmaxphil.


----------



## Teamubr

2goofycampers said:


> No changes unless it is to Cummins.  Congratulations on the new truck. Pics?


I'm with you Denise on the motor. If only it came it a truck that didn't rattle, buzz, break or rust away. 

Sadly, I grew up racing/building Mopars, but have been hooked on the Blue Oval for a long time. They all have their good and bad anymore.

Congrats Phil! I think it will be like every other truck. There will be some things you love and other things you wish the Dmax was still in the drive.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

I gave the Ram a chance. Had my eye on a megacab drw. Price was good, truck was nice except for the test drive. Shifting seemed off to me, rough. Test drove a different one to be sure and it was the same. These both had the 68RFE so maybe the Aisin is different. Ford's shifting is more like the Allison, but the ride is significantly quiter/softer.

And yes, I already miss my Chevy's bumper steps.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> And yes, I already miss my Chevy's bumper steps.


What? You didn't get the man-step on the Ford?

I didn't either. 






j


----------



## dmaxphil

I've got the man step and tried it out last night. Something about it seems wrong.


----------



## tiggerdad

Love the man step.  only advice is not to use it in garage.  Did this once and nearly knocked myself out cold on the garage door rail.

Those tailgates with the step in them are valued around $3500-5000.  People do steal them.  They advise to keep the tailgate locked in order to avoid this.


----------



## dmaxphil

tiggerdad said:


> Love the man step.  only advice is not to use it in garage.  Did this once and nearly knocked myself out cold on the garage door rail.
> 
> Those tailgates with the step in them are valued around $3500-5000.  People do steal them.  They advise to keep the tailgate locked in order to avoid this.



Good to know. I noticed earlier that my tailgate locks when I lock the truck with the keyfob.


----------



## tiggerdad

F-250 getting a new belt and #4 injector.
 
I'm pimping the farm truck this week.  It looks so cute parked amongst the BMWs, Mercedes, and Porches that the other physicians drive.  Didn't even bother to clean it out.

Dang, it's good to be a good ole boy!


----------



## dmaxphil

Sweet ride. Only thing better would be a regular cab short bed.


----------



## tiggerdad

Who needs a block heater?

I got hood warmers


----------



## dmaxphil

Got my first tow under my belt. Ford did nicely. This truck sits lower than the old one and now I'm noticing some tapping noise coming out of the Roto-flex pin box. I wonder if the height is related to the noise - trailer rides much more level now. But other than the strange noise, it all went well.


----------



## tiggerdad

That's a good matching pair right there.  I'd be willing to bet that truck doesn't notice the camper very much.


----------



## Teamubr

Great looking truck and trailer Phil. I think that is a perfect match. Trailer sits perfect. It might be worth having the pin/box looked at. I doubt you were towing very nose high before, but if that is the only thing different...

And I guess we have to refer to you as SDPhil now, even if you can't change your DIS name. I think you will really like that 18 Powerstroke. Mine is a beast and you have 10% more torque than my 2011. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Thanks guys - this one has me scratching my head. The old setup was higher in the nose than now, but definitely not extreme.  Old photo below.

SDP


----------



## Teamubr

I wonder if it is the hitch rocking a bit. Mine will do that if I don't have the lever's tight before I lock them. Do you have the factory under bed hitch rails?

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> I wonder if it is the hitch rocking a bit. Mine will do that if I don't have the lever's tight before I lock them. Do you have the factory under bed hitch rails?
> 
> j



That was my concern, that it's something coming between the hitch and the bed. Yes I have the factory hitch and tightened the bolts so I have to use a rubber mallet to get the levers into position.

Wife swears its coming from that roto-flex head, but how can rubber hitting metal make that noise. Clunking sort of noise.


----------



## dmaxphil

I think next time I get hitch weight on the truck I'll check for looseness at those levers.


----------



## Teamubr

I have the exact same hitch. Mine has done it with 3 different trailers on it. I just ignore it now. Something in the base plate or maybe the rocking on the head makes a clunking noise. Haven't lost a trailer yet and I used to tow 10-12,000 miles a year when I was racing. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

That's not what I was hoping to hear. But still good to know it may not be critical.  I'll try to retighten with the load on and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## Monorail_Man_NJ

Heres a couple of my last rigs.  
Not quite the same.


----------



## Teamubr

Nice rigs MMNJ.

How did you like the Volvo? A lot of people on the RV forums have picked them up fairly cheap and converted them into crew cabs. They said the Volvos were easier (and cheaper) to convert than an IH, Freightliner or KW. I only use my truck to tow now and may go that route when I need a new truck.

j


----------



## Monorail_Man_NJ

Teamubr said:


> Nice rigs MMNJ.
> 
> How did you like the Volvo? A lot of people on the RV forums have picked them up fairly cheap and converted them into crew cabs. They said the Volvos were easier (and cheaper) to convert than an IH, Freightliner or KW. I only use my truck to tow now and may go that route when I need a new truck.
> 
> j



The Volvo there is an automatic.  The Freightliners are manual.  Of all the auto rigs I like the Volvo best has the best acceleration.  Tried a Freightliner auto and they are dogs.  Volvo has a real nice ride.  I personally would be happy with a Freightliner or a Volvo anytime.  Worst IMHO is International.  The MaxxForce engines in them are crap and they break down all the time.  KW and Pete's are nice too.  They are definetely not like they used to be.  Lots of plastic parts now.


----------



## Teamubr

Monorail_Man_NJ said:


> Worst IMHO is International.  KW and Pete's are nice too.  They are definetely not like they used to be.  Lots of plastic parts now.


I have a good friend that drives OTR for Schneider. He concurs with the Freightliner assessment. That is what he has now.

Per posts on the RV forums, you can get a Volvo Class 8 for $40-50k. 3-400,000 miles, so lots of life left. They are chopping off the tandem drive axle and selling it to recover some of the cost. Beats spending $70k for a new F350.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Monorail_Man_NJ said:


> The Volvo there is an automatic.  The Freightliners are manual.  Of all the auto rigs I like the Volvo best has the best acceleration.  Tried a Freightliner auto and they are dogs.  Volvo has a real nice ride.  I personally would be happy with a Freightliner or a Volvo anytime.  Worst IMHO is International.  The MaxxForce engines in them are crap and they break down all the time.  KW and Pete's are nice too.  They are definetely not like they used to be.  Lots of plastic parts now.



So yes, this does come up some.  I'm interested in your opinion on this.  My concern is when we get where we want to go and having the tow vehicle to use to go places, like restaurants.  For instance, when we go down to the beach.  How has this been for you?  Do you use the Volvo?  Use a taxi?

Just curious on your experience.


----------



## Monorail_Man_NJ

tiggerdad said:


> So yes, this does come up some.  I'm interested in your opinion on this.  My concern is when we get where we want to go and having the tow vehicle to use to go places, like restaurants.  For instance, when we go down to the beach.  How has this been for you?  Do you use the Volvo?  Use a taxi?
> 
> Just curious on your experience.



When I used to drive over the road I would either bobtail or take a taxi if somewhere I really needed to be that I couldnt get truck to.  Out west I always stopped at Casinos.  Far better food than Loves/Pilot etc.


----------



## Teamubr

Found this one Michael. It's a Volvo. We could go in together. Has a hybrid so we should be able to get 12 or 13 mpg. It is missing the sleeper, so it would be hard to make a crewcab out of it, but I like a challenge.






j


----------



## tiggerdad

I'm in...

Some of the 2013 and later Volvos even had the double bunk sleepers where the lower bunk is actually a dinette which would be great with the kids on the road.


----------



## dmaxphil

Teamubr said:


> Found this one Michael. It's a Volvo. We could go in together. Has a hybrid so we should be able to get 12 or 13 mpg. It is missing the sleeper, so it would be hard to make a crewcab out of it, but I like a challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j



Good luck driving at night with that.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> Good luck driving at night with that.


What?! Those are stick on LED decals on the front. They'll work great. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> What?! Those are stick on LED decals on the front. They'll work great.
> 
> j



I am DEFINITELY in!


----------



## WeCampDisney

WeCampDisney said:


> Howdy ya'll. I thought I would share our news about our RV downsizing. We recently sold the class A. We have a GMC Acadia which hopefully will be our tow vehicle. Yea I know it's not a great choice usually. We have ordered a new Jayco Jay Flight 174BH. This is 21 feet bumper to hitch and weighs 2950 unloaded and a max 3500. It is 7 ft wide and 9 1/2 ft tall including ac. It has no slide out. I am going to get the Equalizer brand WDH, rated 600 lb tongue weight. The travel weight of the trailer will be about 3400 lbs. The recommended 12% tongue weight is 410 lbs. I will load the trailer and adjust the load, weigh it to achieve this target. The 410 lbs plus the height of the hitch head will be about 475 lbs. the Acadia has the factory tow package. The receiver hitch is rated at 600 lbs max. The max tow rating is 5200lbs. The gross combined weight rating is 10200 lbs. The Acadia, passengers, loaded trailer, etc will be 9000 lbs or less. On paper it should tow fine, at least on relatively flat roads (no mountains). We have had two travel trailers in the past so I do have a lot of experience. We will test the rig out here in north east Texas which is typical of most any terrain from here to the Fort. If the Acadia seems to struggle I will sell my older Jeep Cherokee and get a pickup. We have a 2 week trip planned for next year late April and early May. Highlights are 3 nights at the Fort, 3 nights at Geiger Key Marina And RV Park near Key West, and on the way home 2 nights at Henderson State Park in Destin. I will update after towing in October. The trailer is scheduled to be built in the last week of September. For anyone interested, the trailer is the smallest, lightest bunkhouse on the market. We wanted a small camper for the wife and I and have bunks for our 2 small granddaughters to go with us occasionally. We wanted a traditional bathroom (no toilet in the shower), and did not want a pop up or a hybrid. This Jayco fit the bill perfectly for our needs. I have read on other forums, folks pulling larger, heavier trailers than ours with an Acadia and doing good. Oh yea, one more thing, I am installing a ScanGauge ll for monitoring the transmission temp.


Hello Fort friends. Here is a brief update on our new camper. We have towed it through the Ozark mountains to Branson Mo and back. I couldn't be any happier towing. This rig is absolutely rock solid, no sway at all. Big trucks have no effect when passing. I have plenty of power on the hills. Downshifted from 6th to 5th or 4th on the steepest longest hills, rpm running between 3000 and 4000. The ScanGuage 2 worked great. It showed my trans temp to run between 175 and 190 most of the time. It did reach 200 in the stop and go traffic of Branson while towing. I got 11.8 to 11.9 mpg running between 60 and 65 mph on this trip. This is much better than our 2 previous travel trailer rigs. I love the genuine Equalizer hitch. It's easier to hook up with the way the weight distribution bars sit on steel brackets instead of chains. Plus there is no anti sway bar to hookup. The small trailer is a bit of a challenge trying to store clothes for 3 adults and 2 kids. I can deal with that. Just love the easy pulling, easy backing, easy parking and great gas mileage. This brand new Jayco 174BH cost  $12000 which is bargain to me. I wanted to tell folks all about this rig because most families have an SUV with a 5000 lb tow rating and could easily handle a travel trailer like this. The key is to get a camper less than about 23 feet overall length and less than 4000 lbs fully loaded. Mine weighs about 3500 loaded.


----------



## Teamubr

Benton,

Thanks for the update. I'm glad the combo worked out so well. It sounded like a pretty good combination. The right hitch is half the battle to making it behave on the road. Almost 12 mpg is amazing. If I slowed down to 60-65, I might be able to squeak out 10.5, but that's what 13 ft tall and 14,000 lbs does. I got 9.7 over the 2000 mile round trip to the Fort in September. I was pretty happy with that. And that was setting the cruise on 72 most of the time.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Well I finally bought a new tow vehicle,  not so much as to tow our 5er but it I will try it come GSP time.

 
Both of my trucks,  
 
One hefty happy new truck owner, 550 Cummins w/ 18 speed


----------



## Teamubr

Peterbilt? Went for the "fancy truck", did ya? 

With the size of that sleeper, there's no need to pull the camper to the Fort.

j


----------



## dmaxphil

Nice!


----------



## tiggerdad

Figured you would stick with black.  She looks good.

You gonna get you some wiggle wagons to pull with that thing?

We all gotta brush up on our trucker slang now.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I bet I'll get better mileage if I tow the camper with the Pete over the 6.4 mpg I got with my 450 on our late trip to the Fort.


----------



## dmaxphil

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I bet I'll get better mileage if I tow the camper with the Pete over the 6.4 mpg I got with my 450 on our late trip to the Fort.


Is this just for the RV or business use? Do you have to modify/replace the hitch to make it useable for the FW?


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I bet I'll get better mileage if I tow the camper with the Pete over the 6.4 mpg I got with my 450 on our late trip to the Fort.


You should get much better mileage. With the little weight on the thing you probably will get about the same as running bobtail.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

dmaxphil said:


> Is this just for the RV or business use? Do you have to modify/replace the hitch to make it useable for the FW?



Its for business, I'm just starting out on my own as a owner op, matter of fact I may be headed up to North Carolina to look at reefer trailer this week, ( I can just imagine Tiggerdad, "reefer" ) haha. As far as towing my fw, I am 99% sure the kingpin is the same but I know I gotta rig up a 7 way plug for the camper, the connections are different from on a tractor trailer, I will keep y'all posted on how it goes.

Nope no wig wags for me, 

I'l have to check the mileage and let you know Jim, btw hate we'll miss you at GSP next year but may try to visit when you are down in Sept. Michael and I will try not go to jail this you so you won' miss any action,


----------



## Clifton Tesh

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Imatter of fact I may be headed up to North Carolina to look at reefer trailer this week,



Where's about in good ol' NC?


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Michael and I will try not go to jail this you so you won' miss any action,



I make no such promises, especially if there's a Peterbuilt involved.  We can all load up in the same vehicle for dinner!


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I'll have to check the mileage and let you know Jim, btw hate we'll miss you at GSP next year but may try to visit when you are down in Sept. Michael and I will try not go to jail this you so you won' miss any action,


I really hated to move the GSP reservation, but I still want to get to the beach. Just can't pull it off when everyone else is down. Water should still be warm. I may have to dodge a hurricane or so, but the crowds should be better.

See what you have going when September gets closer. We don't have anything specific planned, so we can come over your way too. We've always wanted to take the ferry over to Dauphin Island. We can swing by Nick's family restaurant and look you up.

I don't know what the new trucks are doing with mileage now. I heard 8-9 with a reasonable load. I remember the days when 5 was considered good. I'd think with a little 15K trailer on you should be able to do at least 10-11. That's better than I do with my F350 dually. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Its for business, I'm just starting out on my own as a owner op, matter of fact I may be headed up to North Carolina to look at reefer trailer this week, ( I can just imagine Tiggerdad, "reefer" ) haha. As far as towing my fw, I am 99% sure the kingpin is the same but I know I gotta rig up a 7 way plug for the camper, the connections are different from on a tractor trailer, I will keep y'all posted on how it goes.
> 
> Nope no wig wags for me,
> 
> I'l have to check the mileage and let you know Jim, btw hate we'll miss you at GSP next year but may try to visit when you are down in Sept. Michael and I will try not go to jail this you so you won' miss any action,



Yes, the kingpin is the same. Just a matter of height, and clearance. Also need to install a brake controller along with that 7 way plug.


----------



## tiggerdad

Well, broke into the 100000 mile club today.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Well, broke into the 100000 mile club today.


It's a Ford. You should be able to do that several more times. 

j


----------



## tripleb

tiggerdad said:


> Well, broke into the 100000 mile club today.



Time for that 1st oil change


----------



## Clifton Tesh

Teamubr said:


> It's a Ford. You should be able to do that several more times.
> 
> j


As long as it's not a 6.0 or a 6.4


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> View attachment 293015
> Well, broke into the 100000 mile club today.



I'll be looking for you, tiggerdad, to join the 200,000 mile club in a few years where my poor ol' Chevrolet is today.

Of course, by then, the Chevy will be in 300k territory. 

But congrats.  

Bama Ed

PS - 100k is a big achievement . . . .  for a Ford.


----------



## tiggerdad

You know, when I posted that Ed I distinctly remember your 200,000 mile post and actually smiled thinking about the response you might post.

Not as direct as I had figured, but a good one none the less.


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> You know, when I posted that Ed I distinctly remember your 200,000 mile post and actually smiled thinking about the response you might post.
> 
> Not as direct as I had figured, but a good one none the less.



The oblique is much more fun than the direct, my friend.

I will say that any truck is a good truck if it performs reliably and there are no more payments involved.  

Ed


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> The oblique is much more fun than the direct, my friend.
> 
> I will say that any truck is a good truck if it performs reliably and there are no more payments involved.
> 
> Ed



Amen to that


----------



## Clifton Tesh

Keep your maintenance up like you should and they'll all run for ever... Even a dodge (that's hard for me to admit).

When I worked at city transit, we had a 1969 Gmc Buffalo bus that's odometer said 999,999 and the hub-ometer had over 300,000 on it. It had a pre-penske Detroit in it though.


----------



## tiggerdad

Those old Detroits were nearly indestructible.  Loud, but dang reliable.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

tiggerdad said:


> Those old Detroits were nearly indestructible.  Loud, but dang reliable.


They only took like 44 qts of oil per oil change too!


----------



## mco65

Which came 1st, the truck or the camper?

In the market.... but will need both a truck and camper..
Do i buy the biggest truck I can afford and then get what ever camper it will pull?
or do i pick my camper and buy a truck that can pull it?

I have been looking at trucks and to be honest, I can afford a used 30-50K mile 1500.... but a 2500 is gonna stretch my budget..
I am worried that i might not be able to pull anything bigger than a 13ft pop up with a 1500..


----------



## 2goofycampers

My opinion save up for the bigger truck. Then get the camper you want. Otherwise you'll be trading both up and it will cost more $. This is from experience.


----------



## Clifton Tesh

mco65 said:


> Which came 1st, the truck or the camper?
> 
> In the market.... but will need both a truck and camper..
> Do i buy the biggest truck I can afford and then get what ever camper it will pull?
> or do i pick my camper and buy a truck that can pull it?
> 
> I have been looking at trucks and to be honest, I can afford a used 30-50K mile 1500.... but a 2500 is gonna stretch my budget..
> I am worried that i might not be able to pull anything bigger than a 13ft pop up with a 1500..





2goofycampers said:


> My opinion save up for the bigger truck. Then get the camper you want. Otherwise you'll be trading both up and it will cost more $. This is from experience.



2goofycampers makes a great point if this isn't an option though, look for a chevy 1500 with the max tow package. They are usually rated around 9400-9500 pound towing. Now, you'll definitely feel the truck pulling the weight, but they can and will tow it.


----------



## mco65

Thanks!  Is there such a thing as a ~50k miles 2500 for ~$30k  or is that an extinct species!


----------



## dmaxphil

_I've owned a few 3/4 ton and 1 ton diesels and have only paid more than $50k once. The right deal is out there if you are willing to search. If you have expensive tastes, and need all the bells whistles, Denali, King Ranch, Platinum, Laramie Longhorn, then you will have to go a few years back to find a deal. 

The truck I just traded in was a 2015 Chevy Duramax 3500 SRW LT that I paid ~$40k with ~19k miles. Got $37k in trade 2 years later._

*>> Just realized I misread this and the budget is $30k and 50k miles. Oops!*

Gas vs diesel will be a question you'll have to answer.  With GM and Dodge, I'm thinking you should be able to find a 2009-2010 diesel fitting the description. I've always heard to avoid those years from Ford (6.4L) but have no firsthand experience.  With a gas engine, maybe 2014-2016?

2009 GMC Ext cab diesel https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/722674093/overview/  $27k

2015 Ram 2500 https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/721713085/overview/  $28k

There are currently 166 Diesel trucks on Cars.com with less than 50k miles and $35k or less.


1500's are great if you are sure you won't have an itch to upgrade to a 10k lbs fifth wheel or a travel trailer exceeding 30' (My opinion). They are much more comfortable daily drivers.


----------



## mco65

^ thanks phil!  Good stuff as always!

When i adjust my max price to 35k or less, there are a ton more trucks available... I can put a little more down on it to keep the MRC where i prefer it to be.. it might push my purchase back a few months but i am not in a big rush!


----------



## dmaxphil

Well my point of searching $35k is that a significant number of dealers will be negotiable. When my dealer took my most recent truck in trade they marked it up $10k and listed at $47k


----------



## PaHunter

We had a 2003 Chevy 1500, we purchased a Keystone Bullet RB251, with a gross weight of around 8k. We towed from PA to WDW and got 6 mpg, it was a gas engine. After that trip decided to purchase a new truck. Ended up with a 2013 Chevy 3500 Dually, see first post on this thread for pic. We towed the same trip and got around 13mpg and hardly knew the trailer was there. This past year we upgraded our trailer, and purchased a fifth wheel that comes in around 15k in weight. Towed the trip to Disney and averaged around 10mpg on this trip. 
As was brought up before, buy what you want the first time, you may have to wait, but it is better in the long run.


----------



## mco65

PaHunter said:


> We had a 2003 Chevy 1500, we purchased a Keystone Bullet RB251, with a gross weight of around 8k. We towed from PA to WDW and got 6 mpg, it was a gas engine. After that trip decided to purchase a new truck. Ended up with a 2013 Chevy 3500 Dually, see first post on this thread for pic. We towed the same trip and got around 13mpg and hardly knew the trailer was there. This past year we upgraded our trailer, and purchased a fifth wheel that comes in around 15k in weight. Towed the trip to Disney and averaged around 10mpg on this trip.
> As was brought up before, buy what you want the first time, you may have to wait, but it is better in the long run.



PaHunter.. those Bullets are really nice trailers...  What made you decide to go to a fifth wheel?  Do you think a 2500 would have any issue pulling your fifth wheel?
Thanks again!


----------



## PaHunter

mco65 said:


> PaHunter.. those Bullets are really nice trailers...  What made you decide to go to a fifth wheel?  Do you think a 2500 would have any issue pulling your fifth wheel?
> Thanks again!



The Bullet was a nice trailer. We attended an RV show and really fell in love with the space of a fifth wheel, and the layout of ours. We have a Sandpiper 379FLOK by Forest River. It is a front living room model, and the wife and I really do like it. But it is big, it is 43ft with 6 slides. 
I personally would not tow our trailer with a 2500. That is a whole other can of worms. I really like the duals, the stability they provide is great, helps with passing trucks, and wind gusts.


----------



## tiggerdad

I wouldn't pull it with my f250.  Got the power, no doubt.  Stability is another story.  That kinda weight needs dual wheels.


----------



## Teamubr

I'll echo Chris and Michael's comments. My new 5er isn't quite as big as Chris' (PA Hunter). Mine is just over 42 ft and a little under 15,000 lbs. That is beyond any 250/2500 I've ever had. It might move it, but it wouldn't be comfortable to tow anywhere.

j


----------



## mco65

Going to an RV show this weekend... fifth wheels have never really peaked my interest but of course never owning a trailer, i have always looked at the price tag vs the practicality.  Assuming you have a big enough tow truck, how much easier is it to pull a fifth wheel vs a bumper pull?


----------



## tiggerdad

I did some over the road driving many years ago, so that's where I primarily have my 5th wheel experience from.  Now I own a 35ft bumper pull Jayco 32BHDS.  The 5th wheel is easier, even if its longer.  Bumper pulls just don't have the turning ability and response of the 5th wheel.

Now, most campgrounds have sites that are angled good enough that it won't matter.  Sometimes they don't.

With FW for instance, site 420.  According to their site description book that site is "easy" to back into.  I can tell you from experience that with a 32 foot bumper pull it is not.

People ask why I went with a bumper pull over a 5th wheel and the answer was cost.  At the time we had a list of what we wanted and the cost we wanted and the bumper pull fit the bill.  Now we are wiser and kids are bigger and the extra room of the 5th wheel is appealing, but we haven't pulled the trigger on it.


----------



## dmaxphil

I think when you ask this type of question to a DRW owner, you get these types of answers. The towing improvement going from SRW to DRW is pretty dramatic. However, with bags, the newer 3/4 and 1 ton SRW diesels are quite capable of pulling big FWs. In fact, most of the FWs I see on the road are being hauled by 3/4 tons. You just have to watch your payload capacities as a fully loaded rig can get heavy on the hitch.

As for the ease of pulling - it depends on the trailer. I've pulled ultra lights that had me all over the road and 40' park models that pulled like a dream. FW's tend to be a lot more carefree with no sway. The main concern is the increased height and avoiding low hanging branches, low clearance bridges, etc.


----------



## Teamubr

dmaxphil said:


> FW's tend to be a lot more carefree with no sway. The main concern is the increased height and avoiding low hanging branches, low clearance bridges, etc.


Just like Phil said. Especially low branches. I've had 2 bumper pulls (hybrid and 33ft TT) and 2 5ers. First one was 31 ft, 1 slide, 8,000 lbs. The 2nd one is the beast described above. 

I prefer the 5ers for overall space and storage. The "basement" storage and general cargo capacity is typically much better in a 5er. Hitching is much easier with a 5er. My 33ft TT I had dual sway controls , WD hitch and it was a pain to hook (and unhook) everything up. Towing on the highway? Like Phil said, 5ers have the weight over the rear axle. As a result, sway is much less of a factor. TT's have a lot of weight hanging off the rear bumper and it is much easier to get a "tail wagging the dog". I never had any really scary sway incidents. It is just more noticeable with a TT.

For me, the primary decision to go to a 5er was space and storage. If you need/want a lot of room, TTs can only get so long before you max out a hitch, even with WD hitches. 

j


----------



## dmaxphil

The increased storage is a great point. One of the reasons I can't see us going back to a travel trailer.


----------



## mco65

tiggerdad said:


> I did some over the road driving many years ago, so that's where I primarily have my 5th wheel experience from.  Now I own a 35ft bumper pull Jayco 32BHDS.  The 5th wheel is easier, even if its longer.  Bumper pulls just don't have the turning ability and response of the 5th wheel.



The Jayco 32BHDS is an awful sweet looking trailer, but not cheap..   Do you pull with a 2500 no issues?


----------



## tiggerdad

mco65 said:


> The Jayco 32BHDS is an awful sweet looking trailer, but not cheap..   Do you pull with a 2500 no issues?



F-250, pretty much same (Except it looks better )

I don't even know it's back there when going down the road.  Truck handles it very well.  With the weight distribution hitch set correctly and sway bar I got it set to keep the truck leveled out.  We've outgrown the bathroom tub, is really the only thing we no longer like.  I use the bath houses, but my wife and daughters and not that brave.

The outdoor kitchen is my pride and joy.  I have gotten lots of use out of it and the extra refrigerator (can't run the outside refrigerator on the road) keeps me from worrying about a cooler in most cases.

Only issue, the camper had several leaks around the roof and corners from the factory.  I have since completely recaulked (removed the metal corner pieces and redid it from scratch) and now eliminated all that problem.  Others I've spoken to deny any issues.  I'm convinced mine was made on a Friday before a holiday weekend.


----------



## mco65

tiggerdad said:


> F-250, pretty much same (Except it looks better )



The used F-250s are consistently more expensive than the Chevy/GMC 2500...  I do think the Fords look better, but not sure they look a few thousand$ better...


----------



## tiggerdad

mco65 said:


> The used F-250s are consistently more expensive than the Chevy/GMC 2500...  I do think the Fords look better, but not sure they look a few thousand$ better...



Hey, when I was shopping it was about price and options.  I looked at me all and was willing to go Ford, Dodge, or Chevy.  Got lucky on mine for its price.


----------



## mco65

tiggerdad said:


> Hey, when I was shopping it was about price and options.  I looked at me all and was willing to go Ford, Dodge, or Chevy.  Got lucky on mine for its price.



Ditto. I don't have a favorite brand or maker... I have owned Dodge/Ford/Chevy pickups and although each had their own drawbacks.. all performed well enough that i would not hesitate buying another..  

I'm buying used so low mileage/price will be the driving force..  Is your diesel or gas?


----------



## tiggerdad

Diesel.
Used gas before, the performance of the diesel just convinced me it was way to go.  More expensive, no doubt.  However, not just power.  The weight helps also.  Feels more stable going down interstate pulling past big rigs and the air push that you can get when passing them.


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Well I finally bought a new tow vehicle,  not so much as to tow our 5er but it I will try it come GSP time.
> 
> View attachment 289587
> Both of my trucks,
> View attachment 289589
> One hefty happy new truck owner, 550 Cummins w/ 18 speed



So have you gotten anything done on that big truck ?? I have been looking in to HDT for pulling the 5er, but need to find out a few things first. Have seen some nice ones in some other forums.


----------



## mco65

What i learned from the RV show yesterday:
gonna need a bigger truck! 

I really like the fifth wheel toy haulers... but boy they are tall.. seems like a 1-ton dually might be required..


----------



## Teamubr

mco65 said:


> What i learned from the RV show yesterday:
> gonna need a bigger truck! ... seems like a 1-ton dually might be required..


It depends on what you are looking for, but if it is a "typical" toy hauler, you will be much happier with a dually. 

This is the toy hauler we had for the race team. It had a 14 ft box and we could put a Miata racecar in the back. It NEEDED a dually. 15,000 lbs with the car in it. 43 ft long.

 

j


----------



## mco65

Some of the Toy Haulers i saw were 15k without any toys in 'em...


----------



## tripleb

mco65 said:


> What i learned from the RV show yesterday:
> gonna need a bigger truck!
> 
> I really like the fifth wheel toy haulers... but boy they are tall.. seems like a 1-ton dually might be required..


Yep, a one ton dually, for the weight you are talking about, would be my choice. Case in point ... my 3/4 ton single wheel/4wd is only rated at 2723lbs payload. With the weight of a toy hauler, you will be waaaaay over the rated capacity of a 3/4 ton truck, especially if it is 4wd and more especially if it is diesel.


----------



## PaHunter

mco65 said:


> What i learned from the RV show yesterday:
> gonna need a bigger truck!
> 
> I really like the fifth wheel toy haulers... but boy they are tall.. seems like a 1-ton dually might be required..



May also look at MDT or HDT's. You can get a HDT and have it converted for the cost of a 1 ton.


----------



## mco65

PaHunter said:


> May also look at MDT or HDT's. You can get a HDT and have it converted for the cost of a 1 ton.



No where to keep it when its not in use, assuming its not my daily driver...


----------



## PaHunter

mco65 said:


> No where to keep it when its not in use, assuming its not my daily driver...



Yea, that can be an issue. For now we have a one ton dually, looking at going HDT, just for comfort and visibility. Our trailer is only 15500 max and 43 ft.


----------



## mco65

PaHunter said:


> Yea, that can be an issue. For now we have a one ton dually, looking at going HDT, just for comfort and visibility. Our trailer is only 15500 max and 43 ft.



I liked to see that.. I am sure you will share when you take the plunge!


----------



## sirenia88

The next truck I am getting will be a F350.  I like my 250 but if we getting a bigger trailer or 5er, a 350 works for me.  Not a diesel fan.  I believe 9 grand buys a good amount of gas.


----------



## dmaxphil

sirenia88 said:


> The next truck I am getting will be a F350.  I like my 250 but if we getting a bigger trailer or 5er, a 350 works for me.  Not a diesel fan.  I believe 9 grand buys a good amount of gas.



True about the fuel. You'd have to log a bunch of miles for a bunch of years to make up the difference in fuel costs. Speaking personally, I'd really miss the the exhaust brake and the ability to effortlessly drive up relatively steep grades at low RPMs. I have not driven one of the newer Fords with the 6.2. I've heard lots of good stuff about them. 

Also, for resale in my area (Houston, TX) it would be significantly more difficult selling a used 350 dually with a gas engine. Around here the only gassers I've noticed at dealerships were base XL, white trucks in the Fleet area.


----------



## Teamubr

Getting a diesel for the fuel savings will never pay off. Especially with the cost of diesel over gas, at least around here. 

It is more for the ease of towing and, for some, resale. I tend to keep a vehicle until it is dead, so resale isn't a big factor, but the comfort of towing big with a diesel is worth every penny. Towing needs torque, not horse power. While HP ratings may be similar, diesels have twice as much torque. It's just how they work.

I'm on my 3rd diesel truck now and I'd never go back.

j


----------



## pluto67

I agree Teamubr:  I would never go back either. Same goes after owning 3 TTs' from 16' to 33' and 2 5ers one 38' and now a 43', i would never go back to a TT. Also after towing with a SRWD 2500 diesel and now have been towing with a DRWD 3500 diesel crew cab LWB for 10 years, i would never go back to SRWD. When i bought my truck i swapped out the original 35 gallon fuel tank and installed a 65 gallon tank and i only make 2 fuel stops on my 1000 mile trip to the Fort.


----------



## Teamubr

If anybody is curious, because I'm a numbers freak, I did the math on towing with a diesel over a gasser.

Assumptions:
100,000 miles- all towing
Diesel 9.6mpg (that's what I get towing my 42 ft 5er at 73mph)
Gasser 7.5 mpg (that's guessing, but a friend that had a V10 F350 said that's about what he got)
Diesel price $2.80
Gas price $2.50

The diesel is cheaper over the 100,000 miles, but by less than $3,200. 

The really scary part is the total fuel bill. About $29,200 for the diesel and $33,300 for gas.


----------



## sirenia88

Well simply put, my 250 was wrecked and totaled by the insurance company.  So I will be looking at new trucks or new to me trucks.  I am basically decided on a 350 for the extra load capacity.   However, where I live my parking area are tight.  Getting a DRW diesel would barely fit or might not be able to parked at all (turning radius).  Getting a 250 CCSB truck in one of my drive ways is chore in some weather conditions like the white stuff on the ground.   The diesel buy in is pretty costly looking at another 9 Gs.  So yea a nicely equiped 6.2 gasser with 4.30s would do the trick for me.


----------



## tiggerdad

Given those circumstances Allen I can see your point.  For each of us, we have our needs and wants.  Sometimes going with one first, then changing due to the other.

I'd like to upgrade to 5er, but the things I want in a 5er (The reasons I would upgrade) make the weight of the trailer pushing my safe guidelines.  Which has made me stick with the TT I have now.

Some of us have changed trucks and trailers multiple times, which is not my liking so it'll have to line up nicely before I change.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

tiggerdad said:


> For each of us, we have our needs and wants.



This is SO true.  I would have much preferred a FW and a crew-cab pick-up for our style of camping.  With 3 kids and a dog, however, I needed three rows of seating in the tow vehicle, so we continue to baby our '06 Suburban 2500 in hopes of it getting us at least another 5 years (when the oldest graduates from high school). 

I have seen family size, hobbies, garage height and even neighborhood association rules be the determining factor in choices people have made on RV and tow vehicle types.  The only really bad ones are the ones that just did what someone said without thinking about their own circumstances!  If you have your reasons, and you know your reasons, you are better off in making your decisions than many of those I see come onto these boards caught between a rock and a hard place (often the rock being the light duty SUV they can't afford to sell and the 9,000 pound trailer they purchased and just realized it can't tow!).


----------



## tripleb

mickeyfan0805 said:


> .... many of those I see come onto these boards caught between a rock and a hard place (often the rock being the light duty SUV they can't afford to sell and the 9,000 pound trailer they purchased and just realized it can't tow!).



But, but, but, the Camping World salesman said it would tow the new camper just fine


----------



## tiggerdad

tripleb said:


> But, but, but, the Camping World salesman said it would tow the new camper just fine



In my case, the worthless Camping World salesmen never smiled

Or asked if they could help

Or gave me any prices


----------



## mickeyfan0805

tripleb said:


> But, but, but, the Camping World salesman said it would tow the new camper just fine



I remember when we were first getting into the scene and visiting rv shows. Math is a strength for me, so I took to the rating equations pretty easily. The number of salespersons who told me their enormous rigs were 1/2 ton towable was mind boggling. I couldn't believe how quickly I learned to never trust anyone in the industry. Sad!


----------



## tripleb

tiggerdad said:


> In my case, the worthless Camping World salesmen never smiled
> 
> Or asked if they could help
> 
> Or gave me any prices



I guess we were lucky tiggerdad. We have purchased 2 campers from them, got a fair deal with friendly salesmen. Their service is a totally different subject though.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

That's loaded, all 4 of us, 1 small dog, 1 golf cart, 140 gallons of diesel


----------



## tiggerdad

31,000# !

What kinda MPG you get?


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Haven't figured it up yet, around 6 I'm guessing.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> 31,000# !
> 
> What kinda MPG you get?





SouthAlabama5er said:


> Haven't figured it up yet, around 6 I'm guessing.


Looks like it’s time to switch over to the Pete. 

Have fun at the Fort!

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Teamubr said:


> Looks like it’s time to switch over to the Pete.



I hooked up the Pete before we left, I wanted to see what the turning radius looked like. And with the fifthwheel slide all the way back It still didn't have enough clearane for turning sharp. I' Going to have to move the hitch on the Pete back some more. Now being able to get in and out of these tight loops that's another story.


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I hooked up the Pete before we left, I wanted to see what the turning radius looked like. And with the fifthwheel slide all the way back It still didn't have enough clearane for turning sharp. I' Going to have to move the hitch on the Pete back some more. Now being able to get in and out of these tight loops that's another story.



Looking at used HDT's and singling it out to shorten overall length. This way we will still be able to hit smaller places. Looking like HDT would just be for towing and not daily use. Right now it is a work in progress, working the finances and all to see about making it happen.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I cant single mine up because I work it but, once I slide my rails on my Pete back I will be able to pull both my camper and my 53 Reefer trailer. Being able to turn and not have any clearace issues I will not worry about getting into some tight spots as much, still will be a show for any @tiggerdad's around me. Plus I've been looking for a full set of fenders for the truck.

On another note, I'm still having problems with my trailer brakes on my camper, I have the gain set on ten in my F450 but still not having no kind of braking power with the trailer brakes, feels like the truck is doing all the braking, today is a Fort day, I'm going to get under there and see if I can adjust them.  
Feels like I have this going on haha,


----------



## Teamubr

Randy,

Does your 450 have the integrated controller? My 08 had it and I felt the same way with my little old 8000lb 5er. I replaced all the brake drums, magnets and pads on the trailer thinking the magnets were bad. Checked all the wiring to make sure I didn't have ground issues. Never made it any better.

My 2011 has the integrated controller and it seems weak, but it will lock the new trailer wheels if you stand on the brakes hard AND fast enough. It seems to work with a combination of inertia and pressure. If you are going to keep the 450, I'd stick a Prodigy on it and forget it.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Randy, you and I had discussed this before and I found this forum.  Read down to post #9, it makes sense about the difference we get now in the built in controllers vs. the old individual installed ones.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1131858-integrated-brake-controller-problems.html


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> My 2011 has the integrated controller and it seems weak, but it will lock the new trailer wheels if you stand on the brakes hard AND fast enough. It seems to work with a combination of inertia and pressure.
> j



This apparently is the issue.  It applies brakes depending on the pressure of the brake pedal and the sensed decel.  This is usually why people say they can use the brake controller independently and it will lock the brakes on the trailer, but doesn't feel as strong when using the truck brake pedal.  It's designed to actually let the engine do the majority of the slow decel, thus saving on the brakes and uses the brakes more on the sudden needs which it determines by the pressure on the brake pedal.

Based on this I quit exploring mine but will use the trailer brake controller when i have a long straight away to slow down like an off ramp or something like that.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Well I raised the camper up enough with the 6 point level system to get the tires off the ground, spun the wheel and went like the wheel of fortune wheel, so I adjusted the brakes till I felt some pressure on them, so the trip home will till the tale. 

@tiggerdad I read that forum I appreciate it, I just want something to happen when someone cuts you off on the road, yall know what I mean. I might do like @Teamubr said and install something aftermarket if this doesn't help any.


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 301724
> 
> I cant single mine up because I work it but, once I slide my rails on my Pete back I will be able to pull both my camper and my 53 Reefer trailer. Being able to turn and not have any clearace issues I will not worry about getting into some tight spots as much, still will be a show for any @tiggerdad's around me. Plus I've been looking for a full set of fenders for the truck.
> 
> On another note, I'm still having problems with my trailer brakes on my camper, I have the gain set on ten in my F450 but still not having no kind of braking power with the trailer brakes, feels like the truck is doing all the braking, today is a Fort day, I'm going to get under there and see if I can adjust them.  View attachment 301727
> Feels like I have this going on haha,



Hope you brakes work better after the adjustment. I realize you can not single your as it is also your work truck. We are looking at both, leaving it for hauling either a golf cart or smart car. At this time, just doing a lot of research.


----------



## ChiefM

Anyone ever pull a Hummer H2 with a 40ft diesel pusher? I bought a 1999 American tradition and am going to pull a 2004 Hummer. Looking for any advice.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Well the trip home was a little better after I adjusted the brakes the 5er, but just west of Tallahassee the bolts that hold the fuel cooler down broke again (had this happen last year) made it home ok just was loosen boost and power on the hills. This happening again really has me ready to get the Pete set up to pull the 5er.

I did averge 6.25 mpg down and back home,


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Well the trip home was a little better after I adjusted the brakes the 5er, but just west of Tallahassee the bolts that hold the fuel cooler down broke again (had this happen last year) made it home ok just was loosen boost and power on the hills. This happening again really has me ready to get the Pete set up to pull the 5er.

I did averge 6.25 mpg down and back home,


----------



## ftwildernessrick

Today’s question. After some 37 years of having some 6 motor home, I am going to a large (43 foot) 5th wheel pushing close to 17,000 lbs. 

I am not a Diesel engine fan, but not completely closed to the idea. I am looking a two different Dodge 3/4 ton trucks that are capable of towing this rig. One has the 6.4 heavy duty HEMI and the other the 6.9 Cummings. Now I have heard all the usual, you need a diesel for the torque and better fuel mileage, blah, blah... I currently have a 38’ motor home, that I put a 350 lb motorcycle on the back, towing a 4 door Dodge Dakota with a golf cart in the rear, powered by the Triton V10 and I am well within its combined gross weight. I am not trying to run a race and if it lugs some in the mountains, so what.
The real question I have is what kind of realistic fuel mileage will I get on gas verses diesel so I can honestly figure if a diesel is worth the extra cost of the diesel truck, considering the price of diesel along with the DEF fluid.


----------



## tripleb

ftwildernessrick, quite honestly, I don't think you will have enough truck for that size FW. However, I talked with a guy that had a 1 ton Ford with a diesel pulling a similar size FW that you are referring to. He told me he got 8 - 9 mpg.


----------



## sirenia88

My new ride. 2016 F350 6.2 Gas 4X4 XLT with Premium XLT package, 5th wheel prep, snow plow prep, FX4, and 3.73s in the rear end.


----------



## Teamubr

My 5er is 42ft and grosses at 15k. Truck and trailer scales at 22,500 combined. Not sure what your MHs weighed. I pull it with a diesel F350 dually. If I keep it around 70, I get 9.5-10.

I’ve towed at and over truck ratings. You will be much happier with a 1 ton. The price isn’t much more than a 3/4 ton. I also wouldn’t consider towing my 5er with a single rear wheel. Not enough stability for that much pin weight.

Pulling big long 5th wheels is a different animal than driving a 40 ft MH.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

ftwildernessrick said:


> Today’s question. After some 37 years of having some 6 motor home, I am going to a large (43 foot) 5th wheel pushing close to 17,000 lbs.
> 
> I am not a Diesel engine fan, but not completely closed to the idea. I am looking a two different Dodge 3/4 ton trucks that are capable of towing this rig. One has the 6.4 heavy duty HEMI and the other the 6.9 Cummings. Now I have heard all the usual, you need a diesel for the torque and better fuel mileage, blah, blah... I currently have a 38’ motor home, that I put a 350 lb motorcycle on the back, towing a 4 door Dodge Dakota with a golf cart in the rear, powered by the Triton V10 and I am well within its combined gross weight. I am not trying to run a race and if it lugs some in the mountains, so what.
> The real question I have is what kind of realistic fuel mileage will I get on gas verses diesel so I can honestly figure if a diesel is worth the extra cost of the diesel truck, considering the price of diesel along with the DEF fluid.



Will it pull it?  Yes

Is it rated to pull it is the more important question.  At 17,000#, what is the pin weight and look up both trucks towing capacity and see where you line up.  If you're within range , then, to be honest, it's in the eye of the beholder as far as going gas or diesel.  

Personally, with my family in the truck, I wouldn't touch greater than 15,000# in a SRW truck.  You got 17,000# bearing down on you and blow a tire without another tire to back it up is what's on my mind.

DEF fluid cost is negligible.  About 5 gallons per oil change at about $16 from Wal Mart is nothing.


----------



## mco65

sirenia88 said:


> My new ride. 2016 F350 6.2 Gas 4X4 XLT with Premium XLT package, 5th wheel prep, snow plow prep, FX4, and 3.73s in the rear end.
> 
> View attachment 308414



nice... how much more would this have cost for Dual wheels vs Single?


----------



## mickeyfan0805

mco65 said:


> nice... how much more would this have cost for Dual wheels vs Single?



Going from 3/4 to 1 ton has a cost of roughly $1,200 on a Ford.  The DRW adds another $1,700.  So, from a 3/4 SRW to a 1 ton dually is about 3 grand.


----------



## Teamubr

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Going from 3/4 to 1 ton has a cost of roughly $1,200 on a Ford.  The DRW adds another $1,700.  So, from a 3/4 SRW to a 1 ton dually is about 3 grand.


Are those "real" dollars or MSRP differences? Trucks have a huge profit margin and there is usually a lot of room for negotiating. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> My new ride. 2016 F350 6.2 Gas 4X4 XLT with Premium XLT package, 5th wheel prep, snow plow prep, FX4, and 3.73s in the rear end.
> 
> View attachment 308414



nice, I mean for a Ford....


----------



## PaHunter

ftwildernessrick said:


> Today’s question. After some 37 years of having some 6 motor home, I am going to a large (43 foot) 5th wheel pushing close to 17,000 lbs.
> 
> I am not a Diesel engine fan, but not completely closed to the idea. I am looking a two different Dodge 3/4 ton trucks that are capable of towing this rig. One has the 6.4 heavy duty HEMI and the other the 6.9 Cummings. Now I have heard all the usual, you need a diesel for the torque and better fuel mileage, blah, blah... I currently have a 38’ motor home, that I put a 350 lb motorcycle on the back, towing a 4 door Dodge Dakota with a golf cart in the rear, powered by the Triton V10 and I am well within its combined gross weight. I am not trying to run a race and if it lugs some in the mountains, so what.
> The real question I have is what kind of realistic fuel mileage will I get on gas verses diesel so I can honestly figure if a diesel is worth the extra cost of the diesel truck, considering the price of diesel along with the DEF fluid.



The big question is the cargo capacity of the truck and the pin weight. What is the weight rating of the tires on the SRW ? Will it tow it, yes. Will it stop it, that is the true question and not one you want to find the answer to either in  the middle of an intersection or the back of someone's car. I mean they towed the space shuttle with a toyota tundra thru LA. 
That big a trailer and truck combination, I would hazard a guess of about 4 maybe 5 mpg.


----------



## tripleb

The resent picture of the F350 is not the truck the other poster was talking about. He was talking about 2 different Dodge 2500's, a gasser and a diesel.

I totally agree with you PaHunter that the truth lies in the cargo carrying capacity. A 2500, whether it be a Dodge, Ford, or Chevy is going to be hard pressed to accommodate the pin weight of a 17K FW and especially if you add the additional weight of diesel engine and transmission.

Case in point: My 2015 Silverado 2500HD, Crew Cab, 4WD has a CCC of 2723lbs. The pin weight of a 17K lb. FW is going to be north of 3400lbs. That's assuming the 17K FW at full load and 20% of that load being on the pin.


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> The resent picture of the F350 is not the truck the other poster was talking about. He was talking about 2 different Dodge 2500's, a gasser and a diesel.
> 
> I totally agree with you PaHunter that the truth lies in the cargo carrying capacity. A 2500, whether it be a Dodge, Ford, or Chevy is going to be hard pressed to accommodate the pin weight of a 17K FW and especially if you add the additional weight of diesel engine and transmission.
> 
> Case in point: My 2015 Silverado 2500HD, Crew Cab, 4WD has a CCC of 2723lbs. The pin weight of a 17K lb. FW is going to be north of 3400lbs. That's assuming the 17K FW at full load and 20% of that load being on the pin.



My 3500 4x4 crew cab dually has a CCC of just over 5000lbs, by the time I get my pin weight on, us in the vehicle, the dog, and if I fill the 100 gal aux tank, I am getting pretty close to max on mine. We have actually talked about a bigger truck, just to up our safety margin, DW is very slowly coming around to the idea, very slowly.


----------



## 2goofycampers

We have a 2017 Dodge 2500 diesel. Frank (DH) says he would definitely want a dually diesel to pull & stop a 17,000 lb 5er.


----------



## jaredjohn4

I’m with the others on you will need a 1 ton for the pin weight. I pull a 38 ft 5th wheel with a diesel ram 2500. My camper weighs about 11,000, so fully loaded truck puts us up near the limits. I added rear bags to help the springs and a bigger sway bar. The other problem I see is if you went with a gas engine I don’t know where you would fill up with something that long. Truck lanes are straight through and diesel only.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Going from 3/4 to 1 ton has a cost of roughly $1,200 on a Ford.  The DRW adds another $1,700.  So, from a 3/4 SRW to a 1 ton dually is about 3 grand.



That's MSRP.  Timing, model, access to deals, etc... all play a role in the net price, so no way to tell on that.  This just gives a sense of the general gap between options.


----------



## sirenia88

PaHunter said:


> nice, I mean for a Ford....



Chris, Please...   Thanks man.  I like the truck too.

 My 2011 F250 had around 2100 CCC per truck weight and the vehicle sticker.  I know it was overloaded with landscaping materials from time to time.  It never had a problem with the 3600 pounds of dirt in the back going or stopping.  The 2016 F350 has a similar drive train.  Same engine, trans and gearing combo.  However the suspension and braking is different as well as the truck driving feel.  The brakes were upgraded in size by nearly an inch over the older truck.  The rear suspension is upped by almost an additional 1000 pounds in the load.  The new truck was rated at 4000 pounds of CCC.  That's not bad in my book. However it's sick to think a DRW 1 ton that has 5-6K CCC load rating is being pushed limit wise with some of the new 5ers on the market.  These are not cheap trucks.  Is the 450/550 class going to be the new standard to pull the larger trailers?


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> Chris, Please...   Thanks man.  I like the truck too.
> 
> My 2011 F250 had around 2100 CCC per truck weight and the vehicle sticker.  I know it was overloaded with landscaping materials from time to time.  It never had a problem with the 36 pounds of dirt in the back going or stopping.  The 2016 F350 has a similar drive train.  Same engine, trans and gearing combo.  However the suspension and braking is different as well as the truck driving feel.  The brakes were upgraded in size by nearly an inch over the older truck.  The rear suspension is upped by almost an additional 1000 pounds in the load.  The new truck was rated at 4000 pounds of CCC.  That's not bad in my book. However it's sick to think a DRW 1 ton that has 5-6K CCC load rating is being pushed limit wise with some of the new 5ers on the market.  These are not cheap trucks.  Is the 450/550 class going to be the new standard to pull the larger trailers?



Actually the 450/550 are definitely better but for that kind of money you could get a MDT, again most being a price point of 6 figures. I see more people going the route of the HDT, including us. Since you can get a used truck for less than a new one ton. They down side is they are big, and for most people not a daily driver.  Unfortunately if people keep towing over the limit of their trucks eventually the government will get involved, like having to stop and be weighed like commercial trucks. Hope not, but keep hearing stories. Like this past week a couple pulled in to their first campground with a 2500 series truck, a 44 ft toy hauler with Harleys in the back, for their maiden voyage.


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> for their maiden voyage.



Sad some people don't remember the Titanic.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

No more F450 for me...


----------



## JETS70

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 309360
> No more F450 for me...


Looks good Randy


----------



## bama_ed

Welcome to the DarkSide, Randy!


----------



## tiggerdad

Good grief!

What's next?  An aircraft carrier?


----------



## sirenia88

Geeze Randy... In a joking way and those who know my truck's license plate will understand... you're dead to me with that new vehicle.  LOL  Sorry to hear you traded your 450 in for a GM 3500  Best of luck.

@PaHunter Oh I get it and understand why some would be looking into MDT/HDT trucks for their hauling needs.  However, I am more shocked that you didn't even snicker at 36 pounds of dirt in the back of my truck!  I saw that typo and said that ain't right. LOL  If I was overloaded at 36 pounds I got other problems. 

I told the wife last night I cannot wait to hook up the trailer and tow it to our next camping destination.


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> Geeze Randy... In a joking way and those who know my truck's license plate will understand... you're dead to me with that new vehicle.  LOL  Sorry to hear you traded your 450 in for a GM 3500  Best of luck.
> 
> @PaHunter Oh I get it and understand why some would be looking into MDT/HDT trucks for their hauling needs.  However, I am more shocked that you didn't even snicker at 36 pounds of dirt in the back of my truck!  I saw that typo and said that ain't right. LOL  If I was overloaded at 36 pounds I got other problems.
> 
> I told the wife last night I cannot wait to hook up the trailer and tow it to our next camping destination.



Our first trip of the season, well it was supposed to be close and local. That may have just changed and may now be a 10 hour jaunt. Our biggest trip is still by far this year the trip to GSP for Memorial Day weekend.  
I knew you had made a typo, wasn't going to harass you for that one. 
Guess I need to take the cover back off, repair it, as the 70mph windstorm did some damage to it. And can hopefully start loading up for the camping season, although still can not dewinterize as it is still below freezing nightly.


----------



## tripleb

PaHunter said:


> ... Like this past week a couple pulled in to their first campground with a 2500 series truck, a 44 ft toy hauler with Harleys in the back, for their maiden voyage.



Saw something similar about a year ago at Stephen Foster SP in Florida.. Couple of ladies camped next to us in a 26' TT, pulled it down from Canada with  V6 Toyota Highlander.


----------



## dmaxphil

ftwildernessrick said:


> Today’s question. After some 37 years of having some 6 motor home, I am going to a large (43 foot) 5th wheel pushing close to 17,000 lbs.
> 
> I am not a Diesel engine fan, but not completely closed to the idea. I am looking a two different Dodge 3/4 ton trucks that are capable of towing this rig. One has the 6.4 heavy duty HEMI and the other the 6.9 Cummings. Now I have heard all the usual, you need a diesel for the torque and better fuel mileage, blah, blah... I currently have a 38’ motor home, that I put a 350 lb motorcycle on the back, towing a 4 door Dodge Dakota with a golf cart in the rear, powered by the Triton V10 and I am well within its combined gross weight. I am not trying to run a race and if it lugs some in the mountains, so what.
> The real question I have is what kind of realistic fuel mileage will I get on gas verses diesel so I can honestly figure if a diesel is worth the extra cost of the diesel truck, considering the price of diesel along with the DEF fluid.



Fuel mileage towing 17k lbs with a gasser. 5mpg is my guess. The real question  is 1) What Ram 3/4 ton truck can support the hitch weight of a FW weighing 17k lbs. 17k lb FW will have a hitch weight over 3K. Are you talking a 17k GVWR or dry weight?


----------



## dmaxphil

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 309360
> No more F450 for me...



Bout time you got a real truck. Wait... forgot I'm a Ford guy now.


----------



## dmaxphil

sirenia88 said:


> My new ride. 2016 F350 6.2 Gas 4X4 XLT with Premium XLT package, 5th wheel prep, snow plow prep, FX4, and 3.73s in the rear end.
> 
> View attachment 308414



Nice rig!


----------



## himandher818

sirenia88 said:


> My new ride. 2016 F350 6.2 Gas 4X4 XLT with Premium XLT package, 5th wheel prep, snow plow prep, FX4, and 3.73s in the rear end.
> 
> View attachment 308414





SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 309360
> No more F450 for me...



Very nice trucks! 
And with trucks likes these I was almost ashamed of posting my new (to me) truck, but for a daily driver and towing a 5K hybrid TT, I like it.



2015 F150 XL 5.0L with 3.55 axle.

Now for the Numbers
GVWR 7050
AWR 3375/3800
Payload (sticker) 2173

Actuals from CAT scale mostly empty, but full tank of gas
GVW 5000
AW 2920/2080
Payload 2050

I can't wait for my fort trips in August and December!


----------



## dmaxphil

himandher818 said:


> Very nice trucks!
> And with trucks likes these I was almost ashamed of posting my new (to me) truck, but for a daily driver and towing a 5K hybrid TT, I like it.
> 
> View attachment 311872
> 
> 2015 F150 XL 5.0L with 3.55 axle.
> 
> Now for the Numbers
> GVWR 7050
> AWR 3375/3800
> Payload (sticker) 2173
> 
> Actuals from CAT scale mostly empty, but full tank of gas
> GVW 5000
> AW 2920/2080
> Payload 2050
> 
> I can't wait for my fort trips in August and December!



Nice ride. You should be rated to pull around 9k lbs with that config. Strong truck.


----------



## Teamubr

Looks like a great match for a daily driver and 5,000 lb TT.

j


----------



## himandher818

dmaxphil said:


> Nice ride. You should be rated to pull around 9k lbs with that config. Strong truck.



9.2K according to the Ford towing guide. But I would not want to try a TT that heavy with it maybe 6-7K max. To much wind resistance. I might be willing to do a flat bed cargo trailer, or boat getting up closer to the 9K mark.


----------



## tiggerdad

himandher818 said:


> 9.2K according to the Ford towing guide. But I would not want to try a TT that heavy with it maybe 6-7K max. To much wind resistance. I might be willing to do a flat bed cargo trailer, or boat getting up closer to the 9K mark.



Agree with that line of thinking.  Even with sway control it's best to not push the limit.


----------



## peg110

himandher818 said:


> 9.2K according to the Ford towing guide. But I would not want to try a TT that heavy with it maybe 6-7K max. To much wind resistance. I might be willing to do a flat bed cargo trailer, or boat getting up closer to the 9K mark.


I too agree. We had an F-150 XLT to tow our 27' TT at GW of around 7.2K and while it towed it okay, when we upgraded to the F250 Lariat, the Drive was much more comfortable (towing and interior since the Lariat has more bells and whistles).

Of course we no longer have the 27' TT and now have a 38' TT. While I'd love a Bigger truck (and even Diesel) It's hard to justify since it's also my daily driver.


----------



## tiggerdad




----------



## PaHunter

This was taken last summer during a camping trip. As you can tell from the picture, not exactly the correct match up here. Could end up with the tail wagging the dog. 
Two weeks and the camping season will be kicking off.


----------



## dmaxphil

^ That car must be stronger than it looks.

Just hit 5K miles on the F-350. Got 11.6mpg on the trip back from Galveston today. Personal best pulling the camper with any truck.


----------



## PaHunter

Sounds like a good tail wind...it feels good when your mileage is up there.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

11.6 isn't bad at all! My 6.4 F450 got 6.3 mpg it grossed out at 31k, all 4 of us, 1 dog, 2 tanks of diesel (140 gals), 48 volt golf cart, and my basement full of stuff on the CAT scale. I' ready to see how this Duramax handles it. All my buddies have them and swears by them, so I'm thinking either it' a good truck or they haven't drove a real truck yet haha! Trying to make up my mind if I'm gonna use the Chevy or Peterbilt to go to GSP in May, it depends on how much trouble Tiggerdad and I can get into...


----------



## PaHunter

Hoping that this will be our next tow vehicle. Will be working with the dealership to try and come to an agreement. It is a 2012, and if everything worked out right, we could have it for GSP. Fingers crossed and some pixie dust just for added measure.


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> 11.6 isn't bad at all! My 6.4 F450 got 6.3 mpg it grossed out at 31k, all 4 of us, 1 dog, 2 tanks of diesel (140 gals), 48 volt golf cart, and my basement full of stuff on the CAT scale. I' ready to see how this Duramax handles it. All my buddies have them and swears by them, so I'm thinking either it' a good truck or they haven't drove a real truck yet haha! Trying to make up my mind if I'm gonna use the Chevy or Peterbilt to go to GSP in May, it depends on how much trouble Tiggerdad and I can get into...



May need that Peterbilt to pull the back wall down on the jail to get us out.  Afraid that Chevy can't handle it.


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> View attachment 313177
> 
> Hoping that this will be our next tow vehicle. Will be working with the dealership to try and come to an agreement. It is a 2012, and if everything worked out right, we could have it for GSP. Fingers crossed and some pixie dust just for added measure.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


>



What you think it is too subtle ??


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

PaHunter said:


> and if everything worked out right, we could have it for GSP. Fingers crossed and some pixie dust just for added measure.



Yup, can't let you be all alone as the only HDT at GSP. 

BTW that thing isn't a automatic is it?!


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Yup, can't let you be all alone as the only HDT at GSP.
> 
> BTW that thing isn't a automatic is it?!



Yes, it is an automatic. The wife wants to learn to drive while towing, and well we owned a manual transmission car once ........and I drove everywhere.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Automatic isn' bad, it will be easier to drive in traffic, I can see all the guys now riding up and down the strip in a yellow Volvo and blue Peterbilt,  we'll revert back to our high school days.


----------



## bama_ed

PaHunter said:


> Yes, it is an automatic. The wife wants to learn to drive while towing, and well we owned a manual transmission car once ........and I drove everywhere.



I admit I LOL'd.  

Heck with my little popup I had a HECK of a time trying keep up with all the F250/2500, F350/3500, and F450/gazillion in this thread so I'm just gonna bring a beer and listen to you guys speak in Portuguese/truck-ese at Gulf.

Bama Ed

PS - good luck with the negotiations, Chris.


----------



## PaHunter

bama_ed said:


> I admit I LOL'd.
> 
> Heck with my little popup I had a HECK of a time trying keep up with all the F250/2500, F350/3500, and F450/gazillion in this thread so I'm just gonna bring a beer and listen to you guys speak in Portuguese/truck-ese at Gulf.
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - good luck with the negotiations, Chris.



Thank you Bama Ed, and I believe the A liner will fit on the back over the tandems.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Yes, it is an automatic. The wife wants to learn to drive while towing, and well we owned a manual transmission car once ........and I drove everywhere.


My RS only comes with a 6 speed. Another one of the reasons I love it. Ian can't drive a stick and DW hates to.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Funny, I have a F-250 and 9000# 35 foot bumper pull trailer...

...and it's the 2nd smallest setup we got lined up this year at GSP.

Ed, I may be sitting with you.


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> My RS only comes with a 6 speed. Another one of the reasons I love it. Ian can't drive a stick and DW hates to.
> 
> j


Hmm... I can drive a Stick!
Got lots of practice with a "Deuce" in the Army, although I don't think you'd need to double clutch the RS quite as much.


----------



## Teamubr

> I don't think you'd need to double clutch the RS quite as much.


With launch control, 350HP and AWD, you barely need to know how to use the clutch. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> With launch control, 350HP and AWD, you barely need to know how to use the clutch.
> 
> j



It probably has the same display as Rock n Roller coaster....


----------



## Teamubr

I do have to warn passengers, especially 1st time riders, to put their head back. Better to have your head on the rest than have it slammed into it.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

"Prepare to merge like you never merged before"


----------



## Teamubr

People at work don't believe a Focus can be quick, then I show them this video of an RS (not mine) taking on a Camaro SS. From a dig, this is one of the fastest 0-40 cars I've ever had. Forward to about the 12 second point for the launch.






Now back to the topic at hand.

Chris- Good luck on the Volvo. What kind of price are those going for? My F350 is paid for. My thought is when it is time to replace it, I may go the Class A route, but I've long looked at these MDT trucks as a cost effective alternative to a $70,000 new F350.

j


----------



## tripleb

PaHunter said:


> View attachment 313177
> 
> Hoping that this will be our next tow vehicle. Will be working with the dealership to try and come to an agreement. It is a 2012, and if everything worked out right, we could have it for GSP. Fingers crossed and some pixie dust just for added measure.




Niiiiiiiiiice PaHunter.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

We had the Bandit Race Series come to the local track two weeks ago, had a small truck show as well. Very cool to see the big rigs running around a half mile track at 90 mph. 

PS. My truck is the 3rd from the end in the next to last pic.


----------



## Teamubr

That looks like fun. I like the big push bars from and rear.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Like the truck races, and even the truck drag races. See they are having a drag series up in Michigan later this year. Gonna be out of vacation tho. 
Since it looks like I will have to take a couple days to go pick up the new truck, before GSP.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> it looks like I will have to take a couple days to go pick up the new truck, before GSP.


Did you get a deal worked out?

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Did you get a deal worked out?
> 
> j



We are currently finishing up our numbers, and everything is looking good at this time. Looks like a road trip will be happening.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Looks like a road trip will be happening.




j


----------



## tiggerdad

I'm getting smaller and smaller.

I'll for sure be sitting with Ed listening to everyone else's big truck talk.


----------



## ftwildernessrick

dmaxphil said:


> Fuel mileage towing 17k lbs with a gasser. 5mpg is my guess. The real question  is 1) What Ram 3/4 ton truck can support the hitch weight of a FW weighing 17k lbs. 17k lb FW will have a hitch weight over 3K. Are you talking a 17k GVWR or dry weight?



17 loaded. Dodge does make a 3/4 ton that is barely within its limits, but we decided just to go with a 1 ton


----------



## tiggerdad

ftwildernessrick said:


> 17 loaded. Dodge does make a 3/4 ton that is barely within its limits, but we decided just to go with a 1 ton



I think that was a wise move.  You'll feel more comfortable pulling the trailer for sure.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Traded in the SUV for a new Ram truck quad cab 6'4" bed. I need help picking a tonneau cover. Pros and cons to each kind?


----------



## PaHunter

Well congratulations on the new truck. And sorry can not offer any help on the cover as I have never had a tonneau cover. Of course you will need to post a picture, we love those here.


----------



## 2goofycampers

PaHunter said:


> Well congratulations on the new truck. And sorry can not offer any help on the cover as I have never had a tonneau cover. Of course you will need to post a picture, we love those here.


Pick it up tomorrow after work, will post as soon as it quits raining. That could be a while.

Here is one from Ram site to hold you over. This will be our commuter vehicle. We both work at the same place.


----------



## Teamubr

Congrats Denise.

As for tonneau covers, I've always had the roll back canvas type. I need the flexibility to get to the 5er hitch and auxiliary fuel tank. I like the hard covers for looks, (solid 1 piece and fold up) but they are expensive and not practical for what I need. There are also the motorized roll up ones. They seem neat, but are also expensive and I wonder about how water tight they are.

I'm on my 3rd or 4th soft cover over a bunch of different trucks. Avoid the snap type covers. They are hard to snap on and off, especially in the cold when the cover has shrunk. I had one that used nylon (plastic) square snaps that when into a rail. That was better. I've had a Velcro one for a while now. It is the best of both. It is going on 10 years old and the Velcro is just about gone from the sun and weather, but the cover is still decent. The end over the tailgate is held in by a bar with wedges that stretch the cover tight and the sides are Velcro. It is as water tight as you can make a truck bed. 

THIS is the new version of what I have. Tuxedo Truxport. Like I said, I've had it 10 years on 2 different trucks.

j


----------



## Marshel

2goofycampers said:


> Traded in the SUV for a new Ram truck quad cab 6'4" bed. I need help picking a tonneau cover. Pros and cons to each kind?



Truxedo Deuce2 is a velcro roll up that lets you access the front of your bed without having to roll up the whole cover.


----------



## 2goofycampers

I am seeing a trend develop with the Truxedo brand.


----------



## 2goofycampers

On Saturday we bought the blue truck signed all the paper work. Monday they went to the dealer 70 miles away to pick it up. They sold it on Saturday out from under us. We been looking for another. Wednesday we found one online and it came in on Thursday. We pick it up today. It is silver and it has more "stuff". So now I am ready to buy my accessories.


----------



## Teamubr

2goofycampers said:


> Monday they went to the dealer 70 miles away to pick it up. They sold it on Saturday out from under us.


Wow! 

Glad you found another one quickly.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Here it is, our new tow vehicle, for now it will remain a tandem until the DW and I figure out what we want to do with it. If we remove a single axle it would be the same length as our 3500 Crew Cab dually. 
We would like to thank TeamUBR and the family for a very nice dinner and place to stay on our way out to pick up the truck. Wish we could have stopped on the way back thru for you to see it, but Friday did not go as planned. We left your place very  early and finally got to the hotel at 10pm. Had a small issue with the truck not starting at a rest area, but made it part of the adventure. Now to get it ready to pull the camper for GSP.


----------



## tripleb

Wow PaHunter ... saweeeeeeet ! I'll bet if you spent another 10 bucks, you could have got yellow


----------



## Teamubr

Glad you made it there and back, Chris. It was nice being able to see you and the DW again. Have a great time making the truck the way you want and show it off at GSP.

j


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> Wow PaHunter ... saweeeeeeet ! I'll bet if you spent another 10 bucks, you could have got yellow



It is not yellow, the door jamb label says it is Sunshine.


----------



## PaHunter

So just a few specs on the BIG yellow truck, it has a Volvo D13 engine in it, currently rated at 435HP, with a max HP of 455. It develops 1650 ft lbs of torque at 1050 rpm. That is nearly twice the torque rating of our dearly departed 3500. We averaged about 10 mpg on the way home, with 20 mile an hour winds. We will see, but do not expect our fuel mileage to drop much when we hook up the trailer, but we will see on the GSP trip. 
Brake controller and wiring for the trailer connection have been ordered and hope to get to that project next weekend and also to the hitch installation.


----------



## tripleb

PaHunter said:


> So just a few specs on the BIG yellow truck ..... .



What's the matter with you PaHunter ... that's not yellow, it's sunshine


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> What's the matter with you PaHunter ... that's not yellow, it's sunshine



Sorry, still sleepy. Covered a lot of miles in the past couple of days. DW did assist going out with the old truck, and I am very glad for that. But she is not yet licensed to drive the new one, needs some training first, but we will get her there. So I did all the return trip driving.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

PaHunter said:


> currently rated at 435HP



Currently= (not for long)  

Good looking truck, ready to see it down at GSP next month. What's the mileage and what rearends are under it? I have a 550 Cummins 1850 torque with 3:55s, I run about 1550 rpm at 71 on cruise, bobtail around 9.8 or so same with the camper but loaded with the big trailer I'm getting around 5 mpg but thats a ol square long hood truck! And diesel in the sunshine state is running about $3.25 and up at all the big name truckstops. I paid $3.29 last week at the TA at I75 and I4. Ready to see what kinda set up for a fifthwheel your gonna run, keep us posted!


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Currently= (not for long)
> 
> Good looking truck, ready to see it down at GSP next month. What's the mileage and what rearends are under it? I have a 550 Cummins 1850 torque with 3:55s, I run about 1550 rpm at 71 on cruise, bobtail around 9.8 or so same with the camper but loaded with the big trailer I'm getting around 5 mpg but thats a ol square long hood truck! And diesel in the sunshine state is running about $3.25 and up at all the big name truckstops. I paid $3.29 last week at the TA at I75 and I4. Ready to see what kinda set up for a fifthwheel your gonna run, keep us posted!



Actually Randy, the Engine was originally set at 475 when we purchased it, we had it derated one level. The rear end is 3.25, I was getting about 9.7 to 9.9 bobtail back home but the winds were around 20mph.


----------



## tripleb

I'm surprised PaHunter at the gas mileage ... I would have thought the big rigs would have done better.


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> I'm surprised PaHunter at the gas mileage ... I would have thought the big rigs would have done better.



Well, first it has to punch a big hole in the air. And second, they are not exactly light, my curb weight is about 17k, and that is just a guess for now, as I need to run it across the scale yet. The big plus is that with the trailer behind the truck, it really won't know it is back there, so there should be little to no drop off in mpg.
And when towing with our one ton truck we averaged about 10mpg with the same trailer.


----------



## tripleb

I didn't take into consideration the weight of the HDT ... WOW, they're heavy beasts


----------



## himandher818

PaHunter, looks like that truck has enough room in the cab to be an RV all by itself. Probably more than most van conversions.

Anyway, nice upgraded from that little truck you started this thread with


----------



## tigger92662

I like the yellow. Look at this way, it'll be way easier to keep clean rather than if it was all black


----------



## PaHunter

himandher818 said:


> PaHunter, looks like that truck has enough room in the cab to be an RV all by itself. Probably more than most van conversions.
> 
> Anyway, nice upgraded from that little truck you started this thread with



The cab is big enough to be it's own RV. There is a workstation (table), it converts to a 2nd bed. There is an upper bunk in our unit. It has a shore power connection. It doesn't have a fridge, Volvo does make one, but they are expensive. The last owner had a dorm fridge mounted in a cabinet behind the passenger seat. Behind the driver seat is a cabinet with 3 shelves, 2 drawers, and an upper cabinet that could house a tv. Behind the passenger seat is where the old fridge was, also has a clothes bar in that cabinet. There is a small storage space under that and a space above for a microwave. There is a lot of small storage up above the windshield.


----------



## 2goofycampers

PaHunter said:


> The cab is big enough to be it's own RV. There is a workstation (table), it converts to a 2nd bed. There is an upper bunk in our unit. It has a shore power connection. It doesn't have a fridge, Volvo does make one, but they are expensive. The last owner had a dorm fridge mounted in a cabinet behind the passenger seat. Behind the driver seat is a cabinet with 3 shelves, 2 drawers, and an upper cabinet that could house a tv. Behind the passenger seat is where the old fridge was, also has a clothes bar in that cabinet. There is a small storage space under that and a space above for a microwave. There is a lot of small storage up above the windshield.


Rental Income!


----------



## himandher818

> Rental Income!



Or a Guest/Mother In-Law suite.


----------



## tiggerdad

himandher818 said:


> Or a Guest/Mother In-Law suite.



Nope, I'd take the truck and leave the MIL the couch in the house if it was me.


----------



## dalir

Anybody have an opinion on a 2014 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Crew Cab, 2WD with the 5.7L gas engine? It has 23k miles.  I have an appointment to see one this weekend.  We have a 2017 Keystone Passport 2890RL with an empty weight of 5500 lb.  I currently pull it with my 2000 Ram 1500 that just rolled to 224k on the way to work this morning.  It does OK pulling it, but I know I'm getting close to my 7700lb capacity.  The mileage on the 2014 is listed at 11/16.  Any guesses on how much it will drop towing?  My 1500 gets about 13 and drops to about 7 towing.  I have to stop for gas 4 times between Birmingham and The Fort; every 140 miles, whether I need to pee or not.  The catch is the truck is in Baltimore, and they can't transfer it before our trip to The Fort in 2 1/2 weeks.  Right now, my most economical option is the take the train from Birmingham Friday afternoon and get to Baltimore midday Saturday.  Then drive it home if it looks OK. If not, I come up with plan B to get back home.  Any thought are appreciated.
-Dave


----------



## tripleb

dalir, no opinion, good or bad, concerning the Dodge 2500 other than, if you pull your current rig with a 1500, the 2500 will do the job with room to spare. You will probably get about the same  no load mileage and your towing mileage might increase. I doubt the towing mileage will be lower than your 1500.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

dalir said:


> Anybody have an opinion on a 2014 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Crew Cab, 2WD with the 5.7L gas engine?
> -Dave



I too have no comments on the specific truck.  My only comment is to the general notion of forward planning!  If you know your camper is the one you want for many years - go for it!  I don't know your history and background with campers.  If it is extensive - you don't need to worry about this post!  If you are new to it, however, many get the upgrade bug, and end up wanting to move to a larger unit.  I'd hate to see you spend the money on a new truck, only to wish in 12 months you'd gotten something more capable.  Just putting out out there, 'in case.'


----------



## PaHunter

dalir said:


> Anybody have an opinion on a 2014 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Crew Cab, 2WD with the 5.7L gas engine? It has 23k miles.  I have an appointment to see one this weekend.  We have a 2017 Keystone Passport 2890RL with an empty weight of 5500 lb.  I currently pull it with my 2000 Ram 1500 that just rolled to 224k on the way to work this morning.  It does OK pulling it, but I know I'm getting close to my 7700lb capacity.  The mileage on the 2014 is listed at 11/16.  Any guesses on how much it will drop towing?  My 1500 gets about 13 and drops to about 7 towing.  I have to stop for gas 4 times between Birmingham and The Fort; every 140 miles, whether I need to pee or not.  The catch is the truck is in Baltimore, and they can't transfer it before our trip to The Fort in 2 1/2 weeks.  Right now, my most economical option is the take the train from Birmingham Friday afternoon and get to Baltimore midday Saturday.  Then drive it home if it looks OK. If not, I come up with plan B to get back home.  Any thought are appreciated.
> -Dave



My only input to this is, the 2500 would still be a gas truck, so don't expect a big jump in mileage towing. Gas engines just to not make the torque that a diesel does. Torque equals towing power. HP equals speed.


----------



## Teamubr

I'll jump in here. The 2500 will out perform your old 1500 in almost every way except fuel mileage. The 2500 is newer (they have been raising the tow ratings every year), has much stronger transmission, brakes, suspension, radiator and frame. It was built to carry a load where the 1500 was built to carry an occasional piece of plywood or some mulch. 

As for mileage, the 2500 weighs more than your 1500. The 5.7 is a good gas motor, but it's still a smaller gas motor. I'd expect around the same 7 mpg, but you shouldn't have the transmission hunting or staying in a lower gear (higher rpm and worse mpg). The race team briefly had a F250 gasser that we towed a single car trailer with a Mustang and some spares inside. It probably ran 8000lbs loaded. We got around 7 mpg. 

If you don't mind the run to Baltimore (PAHunter just drove half way across the country for his truck) and it looks good on the internet, go for it.

j


----------



## dalir

Thank you @tripleb, @mickeyfan0805, @PaHunter, and @Teamubr.  Your comments are appreciated.  I have financing in place and have purchased my train ticket so I guess I'm going to at least go look.  If I don't like it, I will have to come up with plan B to get back home.  

DW hates the sound and smell of diesel so that has never really been an option.  This seems to fit our needs pretty well.  I've been driving the same truck for 18 1/2 years so I won't know how to act with all the new features, like not having to put a key in the door to unlock .  Again, thanks for taking time to reply.  I'll post a picture if I get it.


----------



## tripleb

Good  luck with your endeavor dalir. Once you get there, if the owner does not have the original window sticker, get the VIN and go to the nearest Dodge place. They should be able to print out all the specifics of the truck.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Good luck dalir. I did a similar thing when we got our Suburban - train trips and all. Worked out for us - hope the same is true do you!


----------



## peg110

dalir said:


> Anybody have an opinion on a 2014 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Crew Cab, 2WD with the 5.7L gas engine? It has 23k miles.  I have an appointment to see one this weekend.  We have a 2017 Keystone Passport 2890RL with an empty weight of 5500 lb.  I currently pull it with my 2000 Ram 1500 that just rolled to 224k on the way to work this morning.  It does OK pulling it, but I know I'm getting close to my 7700lb capacity.  The mileage on the 2014 is listed at 11/16.  Any guesses on how much it will drop towing?  My 1500 gets about 13 and drops to about 7 towing.  I have to stop for gas 4 times between Birmingham and The Fort; every 140 miles, whether I need to pee or not.  The catch is the truck is in Baltimore, and they can't transfer it before our trip to The Fort in 2 1/2 weeks.  Right now, my most economical option is the take the train from Birmingham Friday afternoon and get to Baltimore midday Saturday.  Then drive it home if it looks OK. If not, I come up with plan B to get back home.  Any thought are appreciated.
> -Dave



So I am a bit late to this party, and while I don't have an opinion about the brand, I went through a similar decision some time ago. I had an F150 and upgraded to an F250. Both were Gas. My Fuel economy (not towing) went down. F150 was averaging about 18 MPG and F250 went easily down to sub-12 MPG. Towing MPG was about the same 5-6 MPG. It was a nicer 250 though with lots of "Creature Comforts" so that was nice to.

Now I too have gone through another upgrade. Went from an F250 Gas to an F250 Diesel. Picked it up last Saturday. I will have to see if I can get some pics posted. Although I haven't towed with it yet, I can say my Average MPG has increased by about 30% (from 11.4 avg to 16.7) I guess the real "Proof" will be the towing though.

On a different note.... Nice Rig Chris. WOW.... I can't even imagine.


----------



## Teamubr

peg110 said:


> I upgraded to an F250. Both were Gas. My Fuel economy (not towing) went down.


Paul,

I can't remember what you tow, but I know it isn't a mega-beast like a few of us. I suspect you'll get between 10-11 mpg towing. That's what I got with my old 5er (30 ft, 8000lbs). A lot depends on how heavy your foot is. I towed the old one around 75. The new 5er, I try to set the cruise on 72. If there isn't a bunch of head wind, I'll get 9.5-10, but it's 42 ft and 14,500 lbs. I've tried pulling the new one at 75, but mpg drops to around 9. I know there isn't much difference between 9.0 and 9.6, but it's psychological. I can round 9.6 up to 10 and be happy. 9.0 seems terrible.

j


----------



## PaHunter

peg110 said:


> So I am a bit late to this party, and while I don't have an opinion about the brand, I went through a similar decision some time ago. I had an F150 and upgraded to an F250. Both were Gas. My Fuel economy (not towing) went down. F150 was averaging about 18 MPG and F250 went easily down to sub-12 MPG. Towing MPG was about the same 5-6 MPG. It was a nicer 250 though with lots of "Creature Comforts" so that was nice to.
> 
> Now I too have gone through another upgrade. Went from an F250 Gas to an F250 Diesel. Picked it up last Saturday. I will have to see if I can get some pics posted. Although I haven't towed with it yet, I can say my Average MPG has increased by about 30% (from 11.4 avg to 16.7) I guess the real "Proof" will be the towing though.
> 
> On a different note.... Nice Rig Chris. WOW.... I can't even imagine.



Paul, 
Congratulations on the diesel. You will notice a big difference when towing, the power, and the increase in fuel mileage. As I recall your trailer comes in about 34 ft. You may see 12mpg or so, better when you get down south and out of the mountains. 

And thank you about my truck.


----------



## peg110

Teamubr said:


> Paul,
> 
> I can't remember what you tow, but I know it isn't a mega-beast like a few of us. I suspect you'll get between 10-11 mpg towing. That's what I got with my old 5er (30 ft, 8000lbs). A lot depends on how heavy your foot is. I towed the old one around 75. The new 5er, I try to set the cruise on 72. If there isn't a bunch of head wind, I'll get 9.5-10, but it's 42 ft and 14,500 lbs. I've tried pulling the new one at 75, but mpg drops to around 9. I know there isn't much difference between 9.0 and 9.6, but it's psychological. I can round 9.6 up to 10 and be happy. 9.0 seems terrible.
> 
> j



Yeah... Not at the 5er yet. We were considering it though. Our TT is about 37' from tip to tail and is about 8.5K in weight. With the 250 Gas, I'd get about 5 MPG. I am hoping I can get around 10 MPG with the Diesel.

I have to say, though, that the new(er) one is very comfortable to ride in. It's got pretty much ALL the bells and whistles too. (Not that I need them all, but boy, they are nice to have). 



PaHunter said:


> Paul,
> Congratulations on the diesel. You will notice a big difference when towing, the power, and the increase in fuel mileage. As I recall your trailer comes in about 34 ft. You may see 12mpg or so, better when you get down south and out of the mountains.
> 
> And thank you about my truck.



Thanks Chris. I am hoping to see a huge difference.


----------



## bama_ed

Paul, congrats on your new ride.

My question for this truck/towing group is to ask if anyone has any experience with an ODB2 scanner and using a smartphone app like Torque Pro with it.

The reason I am asking is that I got a scanner and downloaded Torque Pro because my 2005 Chevrolet Suburban is up to 220k miles and shows no signs of stopping but some of my gauges on the dashboard are starting to act a bit wonky especially now that we are hitting 90F daily temps here in central AL.  Rather than pay to replace/fix the dash gauges, I thought I could use the scanner to reproduce the gauges on the app on my phone mounted on a dashboard stand/holder. 

The gauges on the Suburban dash are oil temp, Volts on the batter, gas tank status, and coolant temp.  These are the small gauges in addition to the big RPM and speed gauges.  Of the four smaller, only coolant temp still works all the time.  Of the big gauges, the RPM is intermittent. 

The scanner passes data to my phone via a Bluetooth connection.  FWIW, this is the ODB2 scanner I am using:

https://bafxpro.com/products/obdreader

When the temps are cool (like in the early morning) the gauges usually work all the way around.  But in the afternoon lately when interior temps heat up (the car is outside in the driveway exposed to the sun all the time) the gauges mentioned above crap out. 

Last time to the Fort the gas gauge wasn't working and I had to use the distance-to-empty feature on my odometer display to give me an idea of what my fuel status was (although I know my gas stops on that route).  When I'm driving in less familiar surroundings, I got to thinking that I needed to do something and came across the scanner/app solution.

I only have $30 invested in this but it is interesting.  So anybody else use one?  I linked the phone to the scanner this morning and used it for the first time this morning using the standard app dashboard.  I would love to pick somebody's brain.

Bama Ed


----------



## Teamubr

Ed,

I have an ODB2 bluetooth dongle on my RS and I use Torque Pro. Great combo. The ODB2 readers are under $10 now, but since you already have one. 

I have mine setup to display tach, boost, coolant temp, acceleration/G-force meters, 0-30, 0-60 and 0-60-0 times, 1/4 mile, EGTs, tire pressures, speedometer to GPS difference and some other things. It is amazing how much you can monitor on the newer computers.

Depending on the computer mapping on your Suburban, you should be able to setup a smart phone to replicate your gauges. TorquePro gives options for digital, graph, bar, full dial and half dial gauges. I have an old smart phone that I use instead of using my current phone. 

j


----------



## bama_ed

Well I should have counted on you, Jim.  Although to tell you the truth, I don't think I'll be setting up any 0-something gauges for my Suburban .  I can see how you would want to, though, with your land rocket.

DD has an old Samsung S4 (that I paid for) and she's now upgraded to the S8 (which she paid for) but won't turn loose of the S4 for me to use in a dedicated manner as you are with your old phone.

I'm going to play with it some more this weekend and will hit you up as needed.

ED


----------



## dalir

Well, I am the happy owner of a new (to me) truck!  It was an interesting 36 hours.  I boarded the train at 3:15 Friday afternoon and arrived in Baltimore a little past noon on Saturday.  It was a 30 min Uber ride to the dealership. The inspection, test drive and paperwork took about 2 1/2 hours, then on the road for the 806 miles back home.  I pulled in my driveway at 3:15am Sunday.  The truck drives really well and I averaged just over 16 mpg on the trip home.  We'll see how much it drops when towing on our trip to The Fort on the 27th.  

I appreciate everyone's comments last week; that helped me make the decision.

-Dave


----------



## tripleb

Nice dalir  We will arrive at the Fort on the 27th also. Hopeing to get the 1600 loop. Regardless, We will be in a FHU loop.


----------



## dalir

We are in FHU as well, but will actually arrive early on the 28th (an earlier post describes our detour to Atlanta on the way down).  Hoping for 1800 or 1600 on the canal.  We were in 1809 back in October and loved it.  We will be at the Fort early that morning so hopefully we can convince the CM to assign us a good site.  I have reservations for a special DW birthday activity at 9am in DS, so we will be there early, unhook in overflow, and head to DS.  Hope the traffic in from the Ocala rest area isn't to heavy that morning.


----------



## tripleb

dalir, if you're "out and about" at the Fort, look for our rig:


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> I don't think I'll be setting up any 0-something gauges for my Suburban .
> 
> DD has an old Samsung S4 (that I paid for) and she's now upgraded to the S8 (which she paid for) but won't turn loose of the S4 for me to use in a dedicated manner.


Ed,

Nothing wrong with using your current phone. Torque doesn't use data. Let me know when you want to set it up. There are additional settings you can get to by selecting the type of vehicle. That's how I could access the TPMS monitors for the tire pressures. I'm not sure how much the computer on the 'Burban can display. The newer cars use a CAN Bus (mini network for most of the sensors and control units) instead of the older direct wire analog computers



dalir said:


> Well, I am the happy owner of a new (to me) truck!


Dave,

Good looking truck. If you managed 16 mpg from the hemi, that's a pretty good deal considering the aerodynamics of these bricks we call trucks. Have a fun time getting used to it on the drive to the Fort.

j


----------



## dalir

tripleb said:


> dalir, if you're "out and about" at the Fort, look for our rig:



We'll do it!  We will be picking up a cart from Tee Time on Tuesday (they were closed on Memorial Day, go figure), and DW and I will have new bikes as well so we are planning on more time in the campground.  We are trying hard to relax more at the Fort.  In the past we haven't been very good at it, but this will be our 6th trip in a year (getting our money's worth from the APs) and are slowly getting better.  We made it to the Sing-a-long for the first time last trip .


----------



## tripleb

This will only be our 2nd trip to the Fort ... been to Disney World a whole bunch of times. Funny you mentioned last October. We were also there then ... 1st week of October. We were in the 1900 loop. Enjoyed every minute of it. This trip is going to be similar to yours in that we won't key on the Park, rather take in the Fort and it's offerings. We will have bikes also.


----------



## himandher818

dalir, Nice truck! It should do well pulling the Passport.



Teamubr said:


> considering the aerodynamics of these bricks we call trucks



they may be bricks, but they look so much better than the more aerodynamic trucks 10 years ago. I'm glad they have started making trucks look like trucks again.


----------



## tiggerdad

peg110 said:


> Yeah... Not at the 5er yet. We were considering it though. Our TT is about 37' from tip to tail and is about 8.5K in weight. With the 250 Gas, I'd get about 5 MPG. I am hoping I can get around 10 MPG with the Diesel.



Got you covered.

F-250 6.7 diesel pulling my TT that is 35' and weighs about 9,000#.  I get between 9-10.2 towing.  I've found about 72 mph seems to be the sweetspot when towing on the interstate.  Any less or more and the mpg drops down.  When not towing, I get about 17.3 mpg so it roughly cut it in half.


----------



## Wonder05

Ok experts,
1991 Ford F250 XLT Lariat
7.5 gas 
Fwd
What can you tell me about it as a tow vehicle 
I couldn’t find anything on it when I googled. 

Thanks in advance


----------



## Teamubr

Wonder05 said:


> Ok experts,
> 1991 Ford F250 XLT Lariat
> 7.5 gas
> Fwd
> What can you tell me about it as a tow vehicle


Wow!`A 1991?

For its time, it was a good truck, but after 27 years, everything is based on what kind of shape it is in and how it has been taken care of. 
First, the F250 came in 2 levels back then. An F250 and F250 HD. For towing, you want the HD. It has 1000 lbs higher GVWR. The 460 V8 (7.5) is a work horse. It was in many motorhomes from that era. It makes great torque, but not a lot of HP. I can only find a couple of references on tow rating. They both show around 8000 for the HD and 7000 ish for the non-HD. 2WD are slightly higher than 4WD.

Unless you know the history on the truck or it`s from family and nearly free, I'd probably go with a newer truck. My son has a 94 Miata. Things on it are failing because they are 24 years old and literally rotting. You can find some early 2000 F250/350 for pretty good prices. Even diesels (and the 7.3 Powerstrokes of the early 2000`s were great. I had a 2001 F250 diesel) 

j


----------



## Wonder05

Thanks!

My dad just informed me they think they want to go for a NEW f-250

They said they think no fifth wheel cause it’s higher at 150”
Overpasses. And harder to tow?
Could fall off when inspecting the roof cause you know they are curved?


----------



## Teamubr

Wonder05 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> My dad just informed me they think they want to go for a NEW f-250


Congrats. Be prepared for some sticker shock. On thing I would recommend. Instead of the F250, I would consider the single rear wheel F350. Nearly identical to the F250 except with more tow capability. Price is only a little more.

j


----------



## tripleb

Wonder05 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> My dad just informed me they think they want to go for a NEW f-250
> 
> They said they think no fifth wheel cause it’s higher at 150”
> Overpasses. And harder to tow?
> Could fall off when inspecting the roof cause you know they are curved?



All over-passes are at least 13' 6", so height shouldn't be a problem. There are over-passes in rural areas that are lower so planning is key to avoid those.
A TT is generally "harder" to tow. FW's don't suffer from sway issues that TT''s do.
Yes, the roofs are curved on a FW but I don't have any issues with mine and I'm a young 66 years old. Just remember, the fall doesn't hurt one bit, it's that sudden stop that hurts.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Teamubr said:


> Congrats. Be prepared for some sticker shock. On thing I would recommend. Instead of the F250, I would consider the single rear wheel F350. Nearly identical to the F250 except with more tow capability. Price is only a little more.
> 
> j



I agree with this entirely.  We are still in SUV territory because of the 3 kids, but unless you live in a state in which the 1-ton truck will create significant differences in registration and/or insurance, the price difference between the two is so minimal that I would upgrade to the capacity f the 1-ton over the 3/4 ton.


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> Congrats. Be prepared for some sticker shock. On thing I would recommend. Instead of the F250, I would consider the single rear wheel F350. Nearly identical to the F250 except with more tow capability. Price is only a little more.
> 
> j



Not so fast.  The rear suspension is stronger, extra leaf I believe with a bigger block.  Problem is, they ride *a lot* rougher than the F-250 because of this.  My suggestion is to get the F-250, then invest the $350 for airbags and use them when hauling.  When you aren't hauling you can let the air out and get the smoother ride back but when you are hauling use the airbags to compensate for the weight.


----------



## tripleb

The problem with the 250's/2500's is payload, especially if you have a fully optioned truck including Crew Cab and 4WD. My Silverado 2500, 6.0L gas, LTZ, Z71, Crew Cab, and 4WD maxes out at 2723 lbs. of payload. Most small FW's ( 31' and shorter) are going to have a pin weight of 1500 lbs. or better. My Jayco 27.5RKDS ( 30'10" total overall length) is near 1800 lbs. pin weight loaded for camping. Add in the 200 lbs. of hitch weight, a couple of people, and some stuff in the truck … that payload goes away rather quickly.

I don't particularly like to discuss weights verses tow vehicles … you just need to be careful.


----------



## Huff

tiggerdad said:


> Not so fast.  The rear suspension is stronger, extra leaf I believe with a bigger block.  Problem is, they ride *a lot* rougher than the F-250 because of this.  My suggestion is to get the F-250, then invest the $350 for airbags and use them when hauling.



Not so fast!!!  Air bags will NOT increase the payload capacity of the truck.  They help level it and thus improve handling.  Going to a 350 is by far a better and safer alternative if you're close to or may exceed the max pin weight or GVWR of the truck.  IOW's, airbags are not a valid choice if wanting to tow more than the 250 is rated for.


----------



## tiggerdad

Enjoy your rougher ride when not towing.

The difference in towing capacity is minimal.  If you are that close, then upgrade to DRW as otherwise the difference is 1000# towing at most.  This not that much, if you think this is "by far" safer you are exaggerating.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> The rear suspension is stronger, extra leaf I believe with a bigger block.  Problem is, they ride *a lot* rougher than the F-250 because of this.


Dude! I drive a 1 ton dually. Those little single rear wheel trucks are pure comfort. 

Actually, ride can be balanced somewhat with tire pressures. I've had a F250, F350 SRW and the F350 dually now. None of them ride great. Get the F150 if you want that. I run the rears down to 55-60 when not towing and it rides as well or better than my old F250. The F350 SRW will do similar. Don't need the rears blown up to 80 if there is nothing in the bed.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

True that on the tire pressure.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

tiggerdad said:


> Enjoy your rougher ride when not towing.
> 
> The difference in towing capacity is minimal.  If you are that close, then upgrade to DRW as otherwise the difference is 1000# towing at most.  This not that much, if you think this is "by far" safer you are exaggerating.



Towing - yes.  Payload - no.

I'm not versed in truck mechanics well enough to get into why differences exist and how to compensate for them - I'll leave that to those of you who know better.  That said, just going by the ratings, the highest payload available in an F250 (4x4) is 3,450 pounds.  The highest payload available in an F350 (4x4) is 4,470.  That extra 1,000 pounds of payload goes a long way in fifth-wheel math!


----------



## tripleb

mickeyfan0805 said:


> .....That extra 1,000 pounds of payload goes a long way in fifth-wheel math!



FW math, I like that and probably makes more sense than common core


----------



## tiggerdad

It's about personal choice.  Remember there are various packages available, including camping package which narrows that gap.

1000# payload is a big deal to some, to others  not so much.  With my family in the truck if I'm skirting maximum payload I'm not feeling very comfortable.

To each his own on this one.


----------



## Wonder05

Thanks guys.

My dad said he’s pretty sure it’ll be like a 250 or Chevy equivalent. Him and mom haven’t found a single rear wheel 350! Moms like all the bells and whistles not gas and dualluy. It’s Hard enough to find a 250 single. Dad Wants the large navigation screen.

They are going for a 2018 Jayco Jay Flight 28bhbe. In either  canyon (micro fiber) or tumble weed Interior. They like the look for the microfiber Canyon but concern about durability with our three children or someone spilling something.
Thinking back to the spills on my brothers old couch.

Anyway back to the truck. I think my mom would go to a fifth wheel as she was into a used one she found online. But my dad has the impression that you need a Crazy big truck. He doesn’t want to buy a $70,000 truck.


----------



## Wonder05

Also, he was told they have
Three kinds. The
One where you don’t take the bars off its built in where the hitch handles it keeps from going up and down, most expensive and he thinks of going with that one.  My father mentioned the hail sale as it said online and they guy said the Deeply reduced it doe sale due to some hail damage to siding. But the insurance guys where out and nothings wrong. 2018 mind you at $27,000. Dad did the math and he wants to leave with $23,000. Said mfg on dealer site $7,000 off manufacture. Not sure how accurate that is. I wanted to be like show me the hail damage.
Inside I noticed that the microfiber  couch (loveseat ) cushion was more filled on the one side pushing me forward.

But what has me concerned is the dealer. I know mom was talking about this place and we liked their attitude and honesty. I had a YouTube link to show but because of advertisement removed it. 
But since they are further out and service center is dirty dad wants to go to this closet place. And the dealer said they are full. They are holding a trailer for a guy that purchased yesterday because he doesn’t have storage yet. And said they’d do the same for dad. He asked dad what truck and then said Oh that’s plenty. Honestly I get the feeling he World have said that about a 150. He piped up at one point and said they don’t have a list but first come , first serve. Where Other place  said they recommend you spend your first night  at their campground next door. So as any problems or questions you can have answered in the morning.


----------



## Wonder05

Oh, and they already have it at $23,995 same interior not this one wrong pic


----------



## PaHunter

Wonder05 said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> My dad said he’s pretty sure it’ll be like a 250 or Chevy equivalent. Him and mom haven’t found a single rear wheel 350! Moms like all the bells and whistles not gas and dualluy. It’s Hard enough to find a 250 single. Dad Wants the large navigation screen.
> 
> They are going for a 2018 Jayco Jay Flight 28bhbe. In either  canyon (micro fiber) or tumble weed Interior. They like the look for the microfiber Canyon but concern about durability with our three children or someone spilling something.
> Thinking back to the spills on my brothers old couch.
> 
> Anyway back to the truck. I think my mom would go to a fifth wheel as she was into a used one she found online. But my dad has the impression that you need a Crazy big truck. He doesn’t want to buy a $70,000 truck.



No need for a crazy big truck, but it does not hurt and the truck was $34,000.


----------



## PaHunter

And as for how a truck rides, they are trucks, if you want a smooth comfortable ride, buy a car.


----------



## Wonder05

PaHunter said:


> No need for a crazy big truck, but it does not hurt and the truck was $34,000.
> View attachment 326033


Holy moly! That’s a semi isn’t it? Lol


----------



## PaHunter

Wonder05 said:


> Holy moly! That’s a semi isn’t it? Lol



Yes it is a Heavy Duty Truck, Class 8, or as a lot of people refer to them Semi Truck.


----------



## tiggerdad

I have a Hatch 32bhds with same basic setup with couch and wrap around dinette.  Like it from dinette standpoint, but couch is short.  Good for two people sitting, but not if you like to stretch out on a couch.

Overall I like it


----------



## Wonder05

Dad just bought a new big blue 2500 Silverado single wheel gas. That my son wants to name it Optimus and paint red flames on it. Lol
He got it because sale was ending and it’s so hard to find them around here. Dang 150s make up most the inventory. It’s his birthday today so he got a truck. Large Navi screen , towing package. I aHe picks it up tonight. My mom said this morning the bed is sprayed and mom mentioned to me that it’s even all set for a fifth wheel hitch. She wouldn’t mind a fifth wheel under 36 feet but it would have to be used as too expensive with the truck.

Thanks guys , I’ll be posting about some used trailers mom and I found and she wanted me to ask for your input.


----------



## JETS70

Wonder05 said:


> Dad just bought a new big blue 2500 Silverado


Sounds like your dad is a Kentucky Wildcat fan.


----------



## FFstreetDoc

Huff said:


> Not so fast!!!  Air bags will NOT increase the payload capacity of the truck.  They help level it and thus improve handling.  Going to a 350 is by far a better and safer alternative if you're close to or may exceed the max pin weight or GVWR of the truck.  IOW's, airbags are not a valid choice if wanting to tow more than the 250 is rated for.




I have this opinion as well and have posted in many debates over the 250 / 2500 vs 350 / 3500 chassis. If you have to add airbags, you are overloaded. They do not change the GVRW. The frame and springs are what they are. The only thing air bags do is keep your overloaded 250 / 2500 from squatting when loaded.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

I'm glad I tow with my Peterbilt, it has 4 air bags, the 5er has a air bag in the hitch, air all the way, rides like Aladdin's magic carpet,  @PaHunter knows what I mean.


----------



## tiggerdad

FFstreetDoc said:


> I have this opinion as well and have posted in many debates over the 250 / 2500 vs 350 / 3500 chassis. If you have to add airbags, you are overloaded. They do not change the GVRW. The frame and springs are what they are. The only thing air bags do is keep your overloaded 250 / 2500 from squatting when loaded.



I'll give you props on at least reporting it's an opinion.  That already puts you above most who debate on this in my book.  

It is true, it is a long standing debate and can vary depending on the package of the vehicle.  Airbags do help to stabilize and level things out, which makes it more safe.  Not just for F-250 or 2500s however, they can be used on all of the trucks.  In fact, most people I know who drive F-350s also have airbags to help level them out as well, so its not just about "overloaded 250 / 2500", they all could probably use it to be honest.

We could throw adjustable wrenches, impacts, sockets, and used motor oil at each other all day and it'll be no different than other towing threads.  If we take anything from this it should be:

1. Just don't exceed what the manufacturer sticker states is your maximum payload
2. Honda trucks still can't compete

and most obvious:

*3. @SouthAlabama5er just took all our man-cards and shredded them.*


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 327303 View attachment 327302
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad I tow with my Peterbilt, it has 4 air bags, the 5er has a air bag in the hitch, air all the way, rides like Aladdin's magic carpet,  @PaHunter knows what I mean.



Very nice, and a bit more subdued than mine.


----------



## FtW Mike

PA Hunter still proudly waving HIS MAN CARD IMHO


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> Very nice, and a bit more subdued than mine.
> View attachment 327517



Great, the man cards just got burned as well.


----------



## sirenia88

Sorry the whole Class 8 with a 5er on the back just doesn't look right.  It really doesn't.  Especially Randy's LOL  The dude's got 6 axles and just 2 short of an 18 wheeler.


----------



## Teamubr

sirenia88 said:


> The dude's got 6 axles and just 2 short of an 18 wheeler.


He actually has one more axle than an 18 wheeler. He's just a few tires short of a big boy.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Ours will tighten up, with a pin box modification and when we remove an axle. 
The biggest thing with a class 8, if my trailer brakes fail for any reason, the truck will stop the whole unit with no problem. And yes on the return trip from the Gulf, I saw a 3500 with Toy Hauler that when he made a panic stop, well he did hit the other car, the toy hauler crushed his pickup bed. Wish I could have gotten pictures, but they were on the other side of the interstate. 
But that is the beauty of this country, each has his own likes, dislikes, and at the end of the day, we all still love Disney.


----------



## dmaxphil

Sorry, but I think these class 8 rigs look badass.


----------



## Teamubr

Chris,

Are you still considering the zero reach pin box if you shorten the frame? I think the combo would look great with the nose of the trailer sitting on top of the axles. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Chris,
> 
> Are you still considering the zero reach pin box if you shorten the frame? I think the combo would look great with the nose of the trailer sitting on top of the axles.
> 
> j



J,

Yes I am looking at the zero reach pin box. Found one that should fit, the other benefit is it will increase my pin weight some. We are looking at the zero reach even before, just to shorten us up a hair.


----------



## dmaxphil

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 327303 View attachment 327302
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad I tow with my Peterbilt, it has 4 air bags, the 5er has a air bag in the hitch, air all the way, rides like Aladdin's magic carpet,  @PaHunter knows what I mean.



So you left the hitch on the truck stock? I'm assuming you are an OO and use this for more than camper. Do you have to pull into weigh stations since you are commercial (i'm assuming)?


----------



## PaHunter

In my case, I use the truck only for towing the camper, the hitch is a custom mount with an air ride hitch. And even non commercial trucks need to stop at the weigh stations. Weigh Stations, may state, all trucks, or vehicles over a certain weight. I was weighed in VA on my first trip, no way I will be over, I think the guys in the weigh house just wanted a better look. 
And the cab air ride is good, and the view, well, it just can not be beat.


----------



## jbrostek

Wow Chris!  That's a heck of an upgrade.  I am happy with my 2012 350 DRW.  Tows like a dream but it misses Fort Wilderness.   I been to Disney twice since my last Fort trip, but they where resort stays.


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> Wow Chris!  That's a heck of an upgrade.  I am happy with my 2012 350 DRW.  Tows like a dream but it misses Fort Wilderness.   I been to Disney twice since my last Fort trip, but they where resort stays.



Thank you, and well resort stays can be good also. Hope all is well with the family. We hit Burnt Cabins last year, since it is only 45 min from home, and we like to camp down in MD.


----------



## jbrostek

Working up something soon.  Might be clowns go, or Gettysburg.  Possibly Williamsburg.  Right now Melissa nd the girls re on a w week rod trip to Maine stopping in nyc the Boston nd on to an are way north where a teacher friend retired to they are having a blast.  Though wish I was there.


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> Working up something soon.  Might be clowns go, or Gettysburg.  Possibly Williamsburg.  Right now Melissa nd the girls re on a w week rod trip to Maine stopping in nyc the Boston nd on to an are way north where a teacher friend retired to they are having a blast.  Though wish I was there.



Well, if you decide to head up Gettysburg way let us know, we could do a camping weekend down that way.


----------



## jbrostek

Definitely!


----------



## Bishoparc

Hi y'all, question.  My golf cart is just a few inches over the length of the bed of my truck.  To haul it with me to the Fort I'd have to take the tailgate off.  I've read online some folks use plywood (obviously the full size of the bed plus whatever extra couple of inches you need).  Anyone on here one of those people and if so, have any pictures of how you rigged it?  Thanks!


----------



## PaHunter

This was posted to another forum. Luckily no one was injured. The first picture the trailer has been rolled back up on to the wheels, the second is the pickup that was towing.


----------



## Teamubr

I've always warned people that driving with your awning out can be dangerous.



Glad no one was hurt.

j


----------



## rideswithchrist

Totally random question for this thread- but it seemed like the most appropriate place. 

Has anyone ever bought their camper at an auction place like Copart?


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> I've always warned people that driving with your awning out can be dangerous.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad no one was hurt.
> 
> j



Dang!

You beat me to it!!


----------



## Teamubr

rideswithchrist said:


> Totally random question for this thread- but it seemed like the most appropriate place.
> 
> Has anyone ever bought their camper at an auction place like Copart?


I haven't actually bought from an auction site, but I have looked into some of them. Like any other auction, there won't be a "dealer" to check out the camper and address issues before the sale. That means all of the inspection and "fixing" is dependent on you. If you have good mechanical skills, campers are pretty basic, but having a thorough inspection (knowing what to look for) is probably best left to people that know what to look for. You don't always have the option for a thorough inspection for auction items.

If you are comfortable inspecting on your own, there are some good deals to be had, especially on bigger MH that get repossessed.

j


----------



## rideswithchrist

Teamubr said:


> I haven't actually bought from an auction site, but I have looked into some of them. Like any other auction, there won't be a "dealer" to check out the camper and address issues before the sale. That means all of the inspection and "fixing" is dependent on you. If you have good mechanical skills, campers are pretty basic, but having a thorough inspection (knowing what to look for) is probably best left to people that know what to look for. You don't always have the option for a thorough inspection for auction items.
> 
> If you are comfortable inspecting on your own, there are some good deals to be had, especially on bigger MH that get repossessed.
> 
> j



That's along the lines of what I was thinking. After we repaired so much on the popup, we are not terribly scared away from minor repairs, and now we know what to better look for.


----------



## PaHunter

And anymore on a new unit there is only a one year warranty from the manufacturer. So for all the money, you still don't get a lot.


----------



## PaHunter

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...n-bountiful/&usg=AOvVaw2_Cf4oyQlRdr4AMAzOhz0q

 

Link above, appears driver driving distracted, one injured.


----------



## Teamubr

Lean on me, when you're not ... paying attention...

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Yep, appears the canopy was out again.

I'm seeing a pattern here.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Yep, appears the canopy was out again.
> 
> I'm seeing a pattern here.



This is what happens when you drive too long and your trailer gets tired.....


----------



## 2goofycampers

Or you're on your cell phone in some manner.


----------



## tiggerdad

2goofycampers said:


> Or you're on your cell phone in some manner.


Another reason i applaud Georgia's new law about cell phone use and driving.


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> Got you covered.
> 
> F-250 6.7 diesel pulling my TT that is 35' and weighs about 9,000#.  I get between 9-10.2 towing.  I've found about 72 mph seems to be the sweetspot when towing on the interstate.  Any less or more and the mpg drops down.  When not towing, I get about 17.3 mpg so it roughly cut it in half.



So I am way behind on this (and many other) thread(s). 

I am currently getting around 17.3 MPG (City/Highway combined). I am hopping to get at least 10 MPG towing. That would make the purchase absolutely worth it. Even now, though, since this truck is also my daily driver, I am happy getting the 17.3 as my F250 Gas was only about 11.3 MPG. So the increase in cost of Diesel versus Gas is definitely worth it too.


----------



## sirenia88

So we had a bit of change in our camping home.  We purchased a new trailer.   The wife and I went to look at some new trailers to replace our now old unit.  We found a trailer we really liked.  The DW and I spoke about the trailer on the way back to the campground.  There were a few Grand Design owners at the CG.  I spoke with them.  All said great things about the trailer and the dealer.  I called the sales rep back up said we want to another look at the trailer with some power so we can get a better idea and then spoke about numbers.  The numbers came in with our trade and the numbers were on point.  So we bought it. 

2018 Grand Design Reflection 285BHS 35.5 feet long 9500# wet.  Hitched to my 2016 F350 CCSB XLT 6.2 Gasser 4x4 with 3.73s using a Blue Ox Sway Pro WDH.  

...and then we get this from the DD today, So when are we going to the Fort?  Oh boy...


----------



## Teamubr

Congrats!

I've been impressed with the Grand Design trailers. I would probably have a Solitude if my dealer had a mid-bunk when we were looking. 

j


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> So we had a bit of change in our camping home.  We purchased a new trailer.   The wife and I went to look at some new trailers to replace our now old unit.  We found a trailer we really liked.  The DW and I spoke about the trailer on the way back to the campground.  There were a few Grand Design owners at the CG.  I spoke with them.  All said great things about the trailer and the dealer.  I called the sales rep back up said we want to another look at the trailer with some power so we can get a better idea and then spoke about numbers.  The numbers came in with our trade and the numbers were on point.  So we bought it.
> 
> 2018 Grand Design Reflection 285BHS 35.5 feet long 9500# wet.  Hitched to my 2016 F350 CCSB XLT 6.2 Gasser 4x4 with 3.73s using a Blue Ox Sway Pro WDH.
> 
> ...and then we get this from the DD today, So when are we going to the Fort?  Oh boy...



Congratulations on the new trailer.  Wish we were planning a trip to the Fort.


----------



## sirenia88

Thanks guys!  We are not currently planning a trip to the Fort.  The DW and I spoke about it briefly there is nothing on the radar for awhile as expected.  I did tell the wife I would consider a long trip somewhere else since the truck and the trailer tow well together.


----------



## bama_ed

sirenia88 said:


> So we had a bit of change in our camping home.  We purchased a new trailer.   The wife and I went to look at some new trailers to replace our now old unit.  We found a trailer we really liked.  The DW and I spoke about the trailer on the way back to the campground.  There were a few Grand Design owners at the CG.  I spoke with them.  All said great things about the trailer and the dealer.  I called the sales rep back up said we want to another look at the trailer with some power so we can get a better idea and then spoke about numbers.  The numbers came in with our trade and the numbers were on point.  So we bought it.
> 
> 2018 Grand Design Reflection 285BHS 35.5 feet long 9500# wet.  Hitched to my 2016 F350 CCSB XLT 6.2 Gasser 4x4 with 3.73s using a Blue Ox Sway Pro WDH.
> 
> ...and then we get this from the DD today, So when are we going to the Fort?  Oh boy...



You're a brave man, sirenia88, to go looking and pull the trigger on the same weekend.  I'm afraid I'm the type that has "paralysis by analysis". 

But hey, if you and DW agreed, then jump in with both feet.

Good luck and we would love pix of course when you're ready.  The Fort will come in time.

Congrats from me!

Bama Ed


----------



## sirenia88

Well @bama_ed  I gave the cliff notes version.  It went pretty quick but over the course of a couple of weeks.  We went on the Saturday before the 4th of July and spent several hours with a sales rep looking at about 10 different trailers that appeared to fit our requirements.  Grand Design was on our list.  We were not planning to buy either. We figured we would see what was available.  Since it was a pretty hot out, we returned to the a common area and reviewed our notes about what we had seen. The sales rep took some additional information from us.  We went back out and review a few models we had a strong liking too.  The rep said he would leave us alone with those units as he had another customer to attend to.  He said give him a call at any time if we had any questions while on site or off.  As we were looking at the trailers, the last one seem to resonate for the both of us.  We liked the layout.  The outside storage space. The interior storage space. The bunk room.  The bedroom and of course the bathroom.  Good storage but better yet nice sized shower.  We also kept looking at the 5th wheel version of the layout too.  Except I was not sold on the 5er sine I was not a fan of the bed room ceiling height.   We also felt it had the larger fridge it would not be as useful for the type of trips we go on.  (After we both discussed it more.)  We went back in and told the sales rep we would be in touch once we had a plan in mind.  We requested a price on the trailer so we had an idea of what we were going to be spending and determine whether or not we would buy this year. We left the dealership.

The wife and I spend the remaining time in the area grabbing a bite to eat.  We discussed the options and the pricing and financing options.  She was somewhat on board with a couple of options.  However she wanted to check on several options come Monday.  We arrived back to the campground and spoke to our DD and my DGPs about what we had seen.  I looked around the campground for owners of Grand Design's models.  We found the owners were positive about the brand and the choice of dealer.  They used the same dealer we had just visited.  We showed the pictures of the trailer to the DD and asked if she was interested.  At first she didn't want to give up the current trailer. Then a change in mind came about.  Monday came. and the DW looked into what she wanted to look into.  I said I would like to look at the model we seem to be most agreeable too with some lights on.  So I made arrangements with the sales rep for another look Monday evening after work.   During that time, the ales rep asked if we were considering a trade and I said if the numbers came back we could think about it. Since our current trailer had a soft floor in the bathroom, we knew were not going to get too much for it.  However, during the day our rep kept us informed.  The original quote price kept dropping.  When it came time to discuss numbers my wife and I knew where we wanted to be and had an idea how to pay for it.  We wound up getting a pretty good price with out the trade of our trailer and even better with.  We said OK to the numbers and got working on the financing.  Since the 4th was in the middle of the week and we had some stuff on our end to handle, it took awhile for the loan to be processed.  We explain it would take awhile.  We approved by the 6th and we had a scheduled delivery date choice of either the 11th or 2 weeks after since their deliveries were booked up.  We took the 11th. 

The weekend before we spent packing up the trailer.  Since my parents had a campsite for the month next to us, we asked if we could set up a tent to hold our trailer stuff.  They said sure and we went to walmart and found a tent large enough to hold all the items.  We had the trailer emptied and a bittersweet moment with it as we knew it was last weekend and nights in it.  However we also knew what the future held.  Before long, delivery date came.  We picked up our trailer from storage.  Acquired all the documents and payments needed for purchase. Went to the dealership and got a really through PDI Demo.  Paperwork was painless.   Afterwards, we got the trailer back to the campground where we like to stay.  Loaded up the trailer.  I performed basic functions of understanding the trailer.  The next morning I was on my way to boondocking for several days for an event I go to every year. 

So yeah Ed it was not all in one day but over about a week and a half.  My wife and I went in expecting to see some trailers and get a better idea what was out there on the market. It turned out we found what both of liked.  The price was really good in the middle of the season.  We hit pretty close to what we wanted to spend.  In the end, we are very happy with our purchase and look forward to the next trips in the trailer.

****The DW wanted to make it clear we had been looking at trailers for quite some time.  We have visiting the shows for a couple of years now.  We could not find a layout that worked for us. So it was not as much of a "shotgun" approach as it sounded.  It was just the latest chapter in our RV experience.  ****


----------



## PaHunter

So I started this thread with our last truck. Here is our upgrade, that we purchased in April and took to the Gulf Dismeet. It is a Class 8 HDT. 
Volvo 2012 with a D13 engine in it. 



Drivers side


Passenger side

 
Workstation that turns in to bed like RV tables do, right side of table area, and above this is a second bed.


 
Cabinet behind drivers seat with storage, on right is storage cabinet behind passenger seat, previous owner removed doors. We will make a nice wood cabinet to replace it. 


 
Passenger side of cab, and the the drivers area of the truck. 




Above the windshield is a storage shelf, and storage cubbies.


----------



## PaHunter

These are shots of our hitch on the rear of the truck, had to have a custom plate made for the hitch to mount on. Local metal fabricator did a really good job.


----------



## tiggerdad

And my 250 now looks like a Tonka truck.


----------



## mco65

Awesomeness!


----------



## peg110

tiggerdad said:


> And my 250 now looks like a Tonka truck.


Mine too.


----------



## himandher818

tiggerdad said:


> And my 250 now looks like a Tonka truck.





peg110 said:


> Mine too.



Would that make my 150 a Hot Wheels/Matchbox car?


----------



## tiggerdad

himandher818 said:


> Would that make my 150 a Hot Wheels/Matchbox car?



Sorry, but "yes".  You can still park next to me though.


----------



## tiggerdad

Life in the fast lane...


----------



## Teamubr

Who knew that boats can play leap frog?

j


----------



## sirenia88

I guess he tried to Dodge it instead of Ram it?  All kidding aside, I believe a change of underwear is in order.


----------



## himandher818

brakes work!


----------



## FtW Mike

It's all good  It self identified as a Land Yacht


----------



## tiggerdad

It's a shame what he did to that toolbox though...


----------



## PaHunter

he may want to take a class in load securement.


----------



## peg110

himandher818 said:


> Would that make my 150 a Hot Wheels/Matchbox car?


Were a "Judgement Free Zone"



tiggerdad said:


> Sorry, but "yes".  You can still park next to me though.


Yeah, me too.... I started out with an F-150 XLT. Then moved to an F-250 Lariat (lightly loaded), now I have an F-250 Lariat Diesel that is just this side of the King Ranch. I still have a long way to go to catch up with Chris, but it gives me something to strive for.


----------



## PaHunter

I can build a deck and put a smart car on the back, then it looks like a matchbox car.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Hey Chris, please start a truck and towing discussion thread on the community board. There are getting to be too many off topic posts here.  This is a very informative thread I think we need on the camping board.


----------



## tiggerdad

Just an FYI:

About 2 weeks after we got back from this year's GSP Dismeet I was driving home from work and suddenly my truck brought up a warning that there was a DEF system fault and that I had 50 miles before it was going to limit me to 50mph.  I hooked it up and got code and discussed it with the diesel mechanic that I use and since it didn't indicate exactly where the fault was in the DEF system we decided to replace all of the DEF system.  

Now, I did price a delete kit, which was about $300 more than keeping the truck stock.  Plus I wouldn't have to worry about not being able to trade it in down the road without having to revert everything back to stock.  So I decided to replace the DEF heater, pump, injector, and line.  Parts cost about $1000, and with me helping him we got it replaced in just a few hours and $200 in labor.

Yesterday I came home from work to a letter from Ford Motor Company.  Telling me that my truck was going to have the warranty extended on the DEF system due to premature faults, and that if this happened I should bring the truck to the dealer to have the DEF system replaced at no charge...

...

...

...

...

At least it did include a spot that if you had ALREADY had this fixed, you could take your receipts to a local dealer to get reimbursed for the parts.  I'll let you guys know how this goes.  So if any of you have the F-250 diesel and get or have gotten a DEF system fault you may want to look into seeing if this is covered.  Mine is a 2012.  It didn't state any particular year models that were being fixed, it just listed my specific VIN number.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Just an FYI:
> 
> About 2 weeks after we got back from this year's GSP Dismeet I was driving home from work and suddenly my truck brought up a warning that there was a DEF system fault and that I had 50 miles before it was going to limit me to 50mph.  I hooked it up and got code and discussed it with the diesel mechanic that I use and since it didn't indicate exactly where the fault was in the DEF system we decided to replace all of the DEF system.
> 
> Now, I did price a delete kit, which was about $300 more than keeping the truck stock.  Plus I wouldn't have to worry about not being able to trade it in down the road without having to revert everything back to stock.  So I decided to replace the DEF heater, pump, injector, and line.  Parts cost about $1000, and with me helping him we got it replaced in just a few hours and $200 in labor.
> 
> Yesterday I came home from work to a letter from Ford Motor Company.  Telling me that my truck was going to have the warranty extended on the DEF system due to premature faults, and that if this happened I should bring the truck to the dealer to have the DEF system replaced at no charge...
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> At least it did include a spot that if you had ALREADY had this fixed, you could take your receipts to a local dealer to get reimbursed for the parts.  I'll let you guys know how this goes.  So if any of you have the F-250 diesel and get or have gotten a DEF system fault you may want to look into seeing if this is covered.  Mine is a 2012.  It didn't state any particular year models that were being fixed, it just listed my specific VIN number.



Chevy did the same thing with their diesels.


----------



## Teamubr

I got the same letter. I had to replace a DEF injector last year... 3 months out of warranty. My letter said it was specifically the DEF heater. Let us know how it goes with the refund. I can guess what they will say. Since you can't prove it was the DEF heater and you replaced everything, they won't pay.

j


----------



## jaredjohn4

On my 2015 Ram the warnings popped up and they replaced the catalytic converter at 30k miles.  Same error code at 55k and another new converter, sensors, and a few other parts.  At 63k with same error, they called in the factory reps and re-did the computer.  Good thing it was all under warranty.


----------



## jaredjohn4

I've seen people pulling campers that I thought the shouldn't with that particular tow vehicle.  My son borrowed my 2500 today, so I thought maybe I should hook my Cougar up to my other truck.  I'm not sure, I might need a few more spring leafs, and maybe a brake upgrade.  In the fall I have towed 25,000lbs of corn out of the field for my father-in-law with the Dakota, my Cougar doesn't weigh that much.  Not sure if I can get it up to cruising speed.  The truck is a good runner with only 78,000 miles.  Not much for a 2001.  Might not quite be able to keep up with that Yellow Volvo though.


----------



## PaHunter

jaredjohn4 said:


> I've seen people pulling campers that I thought the shouldn't with that particular tow vehicle.  My son borrowed my 2500 today, so I thought maybe I should hook my Cougar up to my other truck.  I'm not sure, I might need a few more spring leafs, and maybe a brake upgrade.  In the fall I have towed 25,000lbs of corn out of the field for my father-in-law with the Dakota, my Cougar doesn't weigh that much.  Not sure if I can get it up to cruising speed.  The truck is a good runner with only 78,000 miles.  Not much for a 2001.  Might not quite be able to keep up with that Yellow Volvo though.
> View attachment 342140



It is never about getting a load going, it's about getting it to stop. They used a toyota tundra to pull the space shuttle thru LA, notice they did not use that tundra to bring the shuttle down Wolf Creek Pass.


----------



## Teamubr

jaredjohn4 said:


> My son borrowed my 2500 today, so I thought maybe I should hook my Cougar up to my other truck.


I thought the truck was sitting pretty well and then I realized the landing legs were still down on the trailer. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Headlights would probably blind some airline pilots.


----------



## jaredjohn4

I didn't even have to lower the tail gate to back underneath it.


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> I got the same letter. I had to replace a DEF injector last year... 3 months out of warranty. My letter said it was specifically the DEF heater. Let us know how it goes with the refund. I can guess what they will say. Since you can't prove it was the DEF heater and you replaced everything, they won't pay.
> 
> j



Was notified today that I'll get refund for the heater and the pump that I replaced.  The warranty did not cover the line or injector which I also replaced just because I was already into the guts of the thing.  At least it was something, somewhere are around $600 back.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Was notified today that I'll get refund for the heater and the pump that I replaced.


Same thing I was told. Mine was about $800, but I also had them replace the fan clutch while they had it. It went out a couple of weeks before the CEL for the injector, so I had them do it all. My knuckles hate working that close to the radiator.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> Same thing I was told. Mine was about $800, but I also had them replace the fan clutch while they had it. It went out a couple of weeks before the CEL for the injector, so I had them do it all. My knuckles hate working that close to the radiator.
> 
> j



Funny you should mention fan clutch.  Mine went out about a year ago and I ordered new clutch.  Took it to my mechanic and he called me next day, said fan clutch was fine.  Wiring harness had came loose.  Said the connector at fan doesn't have a lock on it and since it's on downwind side the blowing air can push it off if it gets loose.  Saved me about $300 on that.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> Funny you should mention fan clutch. Wiring harness had came loose.


I wish mine was that simple. It was kicking in and out for no reason. Mostly in, which is really loud and kills the mpg. I was hoping it was the $10 temp sensor, so I tried that first. Nope. 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> I wish mine was that simple. It was kicking in and out for no reason. Mostly in, which is really loud and kills the mpg. I was hoping it was the $10 temp sensor, so I tried that first. Nope.
> 
> j



Ah, I can see that being an issue.  I only noticed when it got to summertime and I realized AC wasn't working when I was sitting still.


----------



## Sluf

Hello all! Super excited to say that I'll be bringing the family down in February. I have a question about the best/safest route. I'll be coming down from just north of Knoxville, TN. I'll be pulling a 2007 32' Copper Canyon 5er with a 2001 F250 7.3L. I just bought the camper a week ago, and I'm getting the truck Wednesday.

Now, I grew up working on a farm, and I've pulled tons of trailers over the years, some enclosed. I've never pulled a 5er at this point. I HAVE pulled goosenecks, but not on the Interstate. There is absolutely nothing about pulling the camper that "scares" me. What does bother me some is trying to pull it thru Atlanta on Sunday afternoon at 4pmish. My other alternative is to hit I-40E in Knoxville and go to Asheville and then take I-26 to 95. It'll add roughly 50 miles and an hour to my trip, which is inconsequential since we're making the trip in 2 legs.

Am I making more out of it than I need to, or will the trip through the Carolinas be less stressful?

Thanks!


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> Hello all! Super excited to say that I'll be bringing the family down in February. I have a question about the best/safest route. I'll be coming down from just north of Knoxville, TN. I'll be pulling a 2007 32' Copper Canyon 5er with a 2001 F250 7.3L. I just bought the camper a week ago, and I'm getting the truck Wednesday.
> 
> Now, I grew up working on a farm, and I've pulled tons of trailers over the years, some enclosed. I've never pulled a 5er at this point. I HAVE pulled goosenecks, but not on the Interstate. There is absolutely nothing about pulling the camper that "scares" me. What does bother me some is trying to pull it thru Atlanta on Sunday afternoon at 4pmish. My other alternative is to hit I-40E in Knoxville and go to Asheville and then take I-26 to 95. It'll add roughly 50 miles and an hour to my trip, which is inconsequential since we're making the trip in 2 legs.
> 
> Am I making more out of it than I need to, or will the trip through the Carolinas be less stressful?
> 
> Thanks!



Well most folks recommend not going thru Atlanta. I have done 81 to 77 to 26 to 95 to 528 and it is not bad. We come out of PA, I have traveled thru TN both on the way to Alabama and to camp and 40 is not too bad. In the end, it is up to you and what you feel comfortable with.


----------



## Sluf

We're going to do a few local camping trips between now and then as well. As soon as I get the truck in my possession, I'm going to pull the camper to one of our fire halls and adjust the brakes and such. My buddy pulled it home for me since I got the cart before the horse. The truck is coming from my cousin and he can't let it go until he gets his car out of the body shop. My wife thought I was crazy when I told her I was going to pull it to Knoxville a couple of times over the next few weeks to get use to pulling it. She thinks that pulling a 16' bass boat should be plenty to "learn" on.


----------



## himandher818

Going through Atlanta on a Sunday afternoon shouldn't be a problem. Unless there there is accident somewhere (which is quite probable). Atlanta traffic is generally just a lot of stop and go, moving down the freeway at 15mph, then up to 50mph and back to 10 mph before stop and go again. Also a few places where you would think you needed to be in one lane, but should have been in another, and several right lanes that are exit only.

I would think the Carolina route from Knoxville might be rough having to go over the mountains.


----------



## Sluf

I think I would feel safer traveling the mountains than the stop and go in Atlanta. Stopping and starting 12k over and over again seems like it would be stressful on a great day.


----------



## himandher818

Sluf said:


> I think I would feel safer traveling the mountains than the stop and go in Atlanta. Stopping and starting 12k over and over again seems like it would be stressful on a great day.



Then I think you would prefer the Carolina route.


----------



## Sluf

It sure does sound like I've already convinced myself, huh? I really, honestly haven't. The stop and go is honestly the main thing I want to avoid. And anybody that has driven thru Atlanta knows that's normal, like you said before.

I just don't want to be "that guy" that listens to what everyone says and then does what he was going to do anyway. I truly am open-minded about it. My only experience pulling a trailer thru Atlanta was an enclosed 6X12 U-Haul. It was Saturday or Sunday evening and I was heading north on 75. I almost lost my religion that day...


----------



## Teamubr

I was going to tell you to go through ATL and it will be fine, but then I saw U-Haul experience. Personally, I'll chance a delay going through ATL over taking a route that I know will automatically add an extra hour. I drive in traffic everyday. 

If the thought of stop and go is that bad, take the longer route... And definitely avoid I-4 in Orlando. Take 429, pay the toll and relax.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> I was going to tell you to go through ATL and it will be fine, but then I saw U-Haul experience. Personally, I'll chance a delay going through ATL over taking a route that I know will automatically add an extra hour. I drive in traffic everyday.
> 
> If the thought of stop and go is that bad, take the longer route... And definitely avoid I-4 in Orlando. Take 429, pay the toll and relax.
> 
> j



We're leaving on Sunday at around noon. I get off work at 11am that morning. We're planning on staying overnight along the way, busting the trip up into two days. We don't check in until Monday. That's the only reason the extra hour wasn't a factor.


----------



## tripleb

There is no way in the world I would pull our FW through Atlanta as long as there is another route.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> I think I would feel safer traveling the mountains than the stop and go in Atlanta. Stopping and starting 12k over and over again seems like it would be stressful on a great day.



It's never the getting going to 50mph that is ever a problem, it is usually getting the 12K back to 10mph that is, and it can get stressful.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> It's never the getting going to 50mph that is ever a problem, it is usually getting the 12K back to 10mph that is, and it can get stressful.


Amen!


----------



## himandher818

Sluf said:


> It sure does sound like I've already convinced myself, huh? I really, honestly haven't.





PaHunter said:


> It's never the getting going to50mph that is ever a problem, it is usually getting the 12K back to 10mph that is, and it can get stressful.



Actually no, it doesn't seem that way. If the start and stop is more of issue than mountains then I agree, go around. To me going down the mountain would be worse. I would be afraid of not being able to get the 12K* back down below 50mph*.


----------



## Sluf

himandher818 said:


> Actually no, it doesn't seem that way. If the start and stop is more of issue than mountains then I agree, go around. To me going down the mountain would be worse. I would be afraid of not being able to get the 12K* back down below 50mph*.


By the time we head down, I SHOULD have the programmer on my truck. The tow tune locks the torque converter instead of releasing it when you coast. The result is essentially an engine brake. On top of that, there's a diy mod to engage the exhaust back pressure valve which REALLY holds everything back. That's part of the reason the mountains don't bother me too much. Neither one do much good in stop and go traffic though.


----------



## Teamubr

I look at the braking thing a bit different than Chris (PAHunter). The truck has it's own brakes that should be capable of stopping the truck at it's max weight. (around 14,000 for my dually). The trailer has brakes that should be capable of stopping the trailer. Stopping, just like starting, takes longer than a regular car. You can't jump into a combo weighing 20,000+ lbs (23,000 in my case) and think it will accelerate and stop like a Camry. As long as you keep that in mind and maintain reasonable distance to the vehicle in front, stop and go isn't that stressful. 

I'm with H&H818 on the mountains. Most diesel trucks today have some type of engine braking. My Ford does a pretty good job using the transmission and engine braking to maintain a speed going down 6% or higher grades. For those that been over Mont Eagle on I-24 coming into Chattanooga, it is a pretty good grade for East of the Rockies. The Southbound down hill seems a bit steeper than Northbound. I only have to hit the brakes a couple of times all the way down the 6% grade going into a few of the corners. The engine braking does most of the work.

Even with all that, the concern that the engine may not hold a speed and then the brakes will fail is more anxiety producing to me than rush hour with the trailer. There are people on this forum that will take much longer routes to avoid going over Mont Eagle.

Everyone has their comfort level. Take the route that makes you most comfortable and just factor in the time it may add. For some (my DW), the thought of towing anywhere is too much. That's why the Fort cabins are there. 

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> I look at the braking thing a bit different than Chris (PAHunter). The truck has it's own brakes that should be capable of stopping the truck at it's max weight. (around 14,000 for my dually). The trailer has brakes that should be capable of stopping the trailer. Stopping, just like starting, takes longer than a regular car. You can't jump into a combo weighing 20,000+ lbs (23,000 in my case) and think it will accelerate and stop like a Camry. As long as you keep that in mind and maintain reasonable distance to the vehicle in front, stop and go isn't that stressful.
> 
> I'm with H&H818 on the mountains. Most diesel trucks today have some type of engine braking. My Ford does a pretty good job using the transmission and engine braking to maintain a speed going down 6% or higher grades. For those that been over Mont Eagle on I-24 coming into Chattanooga, it is a pretty good grade for East of the Rockies. The Southbound down hill seems a bit steeper than Northbound. I only have to hit the brakes a couple of times all the way down the 6% grade going into a few of the corners. The engine braking does most of the work.
> 
> Even with all that, the concern that the engine may not hold a speed and then the brakes will fail is more anxiety producing to me than rush hour with the trailer. There are people on this forum that will take much longer routes to avoid going over Mont Eagle.
> 
> Everyone has their comfort level. Take the route that makes you most comfortable and just factor in the time it may add. For some (my DW), the thought of towing anywhere is too much. That's why the Fort cabins are there.
> 
> j


I'm interested in seeing how my DW does, myself. I asked her last night if she wanted to learn to pull the camper. I got more of a look than an actual answer. I understood EXACTLY what the look said as well. Let's just say I'll be driving all 750 or so miles...


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> I look at the braking thing a bit different than Chris (PAHunter). The truck has it's own brakes that should be capable of stopping the truck at it's max weight. (around 14,000 for my dually). The trailer has brakes that should be capable of stopping the trailer. Stopping, just like starting, takes longer than a regular car. You can't jump into a combo weighing 20,000+ lbs (23,000 in my case) and think it will accelerate and stop like a Camry. As long as you keep that in mind and maintain reasonable distance to the vehicle in front, stop and go isn't that stressful.
> 
> I'm with H&H818 on the mountains. Most diesel trucks today have some type of engine braking. My Ford does a pretty good job using the transmission and engine braking to maintain a speed going down 6% or higher grades. For those that been over Mont Eagle on I-24 coming into Chattanooga, it is a pretty good grade for East of the Rockies. The Southbound down hill seems a bit steeper than Northbound. I only have to hit the brakes a couple of times all the way down the 6% grade going into a few of the corners. The engine braking does most of the work.
> 
> Even with all that, the concern that the engine may not hold a speed and then the brakes will fail is more anxiety producing to me than rush hour with the trailer. There are people on this forum that will take much longer routes to avoid going over Mont Eagle.
> 
> Everyone has their comfort level. Take the route that makes you most comfortable and just factor in the time it may add. For some (my DW), the thought of towing anywhere is too much. That's why the Fort cabins are there.
> 
> j



Well, come on, my brake system will stop both my truck and trailer with no problem even without the trailer brakes, although my trailer brakes still are set on the heavy side. We get up to speed pretty good for our weight, estimated to be about 32K combined. We will weigh it next time we are hooked up and on the way back from the dealership. And well we have plenty of engine braking with the Volvo, so no worries on what the grade is. 
I don't mind the stop and go now as much, used to be a bit more stressful with the p/u. Now being able to see over everything, is so nice, and I put the transmission in a lower gear and set the jake brake higher and we just work our way along.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Well, come on, my brake system will stop both my truck and trailer with no problem even without the trailer brakes.


That's why I said we look at it a little different. 

Actually, I'm pretty sure you could stop the Titanic with that setup. 



Sluf said:


> I'm interested in seeing how my DW does, myself. I asked her last night if she wanted to learn to pull the camper. I got more of a look than an actual answer.


I've seen that look before, except DW's look was accompanied with a laugh and a $%#@ NO! 

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> That's why I said we look at it a little different.
> 
> Actually, I'm pretty sure you could stop the Titanic with that setup.
> 
> 
> I've seen that look before, except DW's look was accompanied with a laugh and a $%#@ NO!
> 
> j


I'm pretty sure mine called me stupid when I walked away...


----------



## tripleb

Every time I mention to the wife that she needs to drive the rig, I get the same look.


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> Well, come on, my brake system will stop both my truck and trailer with no problem even without the trailer brakes


You are in the class of campers known as "The truck outweighs the camper".  Typically this is reserved for folks pulling popups.  Those pulling 5th wheels are very few in this group, but seem to be getting more numerous.

I am jealous.



tripleb said:


> Every time I mention to the wife that she needs to drive the rig, I get the same look.



Same here, no words, just a look.  I've come to know that look.  It usually means "If you try to actually follow through on that you'll be starving, walking around in dirty non-ironed clothing, and will be cut off, and I don't mean the checking account either".

Amazing how much threat can be placed in one look.


----------



## tripleb

tiggerdad said:


> ... and will be cut off, and I don't mean the checking account either".



Ha, when my wife says that, I respond by saying … "cut off, cut on, can't tell the difference". Then I get that look again :-(


----------



## Sluf

tripleb said:


> Ha, when my wife says that I respond by saying … "cut off, cut on, can't tell the difference". Then I get that look again :-(


You've got a lot more nerve than I do!


----------



## peg110

tripleb said:


> Ha, when my wife says that I respond by saying … "cut off, cut on, can't tell the difference". Then I get that look again :-(


I think that but dont say it......

I'd get more than a look..... you know the woman chasing those men with the broomsticks in POTC? That would be mild in comparison.


----------



## tiggerdad

Okay, to keep this on a towing subject, I am curious about other females point of view on this.  We got any female posters that have input on driving the rig?


----------



## BeachMama13

tiggerdad said:


> Okay, to keep this on a towing subject, I am curious about other females point of view on this.  We got any female posters that have input on driving the rig?



I'm willing to learn.  DH & I had this discussion just the other day.  We are shopping for an RV now.  I told him I think it would be easier to learn to drive a motorhome over a truck/fifth wheel.  I supposed I'll get the chance soon enough as we are probably going to end up with a truck/fifth wheel.  

As long as I don't have to make a bunch of tight right turns, I think I can learn. LOL

We've used my Dad's Class C, several times and I don't mind driving it--but it's quite a bit shorter than what we're looking at.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Okay, to keep this on a towing subject, I am curious about other females point of view on this.  We got any female posters that have input on driving the rig?



My DW is working with me and training to drive our setup. It of course does require a license upgrade. We have done some work with driving the cab, will practice some when we get the trailer back.


----------



## Sluf

I need some help. I recently (2 weeks ago) bought my 5er. It's a 2007 32' copper canyon. It has ST225/75R15 load range D tires on it. The date code dates them to the 27th week of 2010. That being said, I'm about to purchase 5 new tires. I plan on buying load range E tires. So far, I haven't been able to find a maximum psi for the wheels. Max weight for each wheel is 2830. They are plain Jane steel wheels, most likely OEM. I haven't taken them off yet, so I don't know if it's stamped on the rear of the wheels anywhere. An internet search doesn't reveal much either. Are most/all steel wheels rated for 80 psi?

Thanks.


----------



## Sluf

Here's my new 5er and tow vehicle. Do I need airbags to level it, or is it OK as it is?


----------



## North of Mouse

tiggerdad said:


> Okay, to keep this on a towing subject, I am curious about other females point of view on this.  We got any female posters that have input on driving the rig?



Ok, I'll chime in!! Yes, I always towed our bumper pull trailers regardless of length, never had any issues but would usually switch over for dh to drive near/in large cities (even on interstates). Dh makes backing one look so easy, (of course he had excellent help outside)  but I never would try that!

The last 10 or so years we have had Class A's and for some reason cannot make the transition to drive it with/without tow. A good friend drives theirs and says it's not hard at all - will soon get the nerve to try for myself!


----------



## 2goofycampers

I_ haven't tried towing the TT. I doubt I will. I have towed our pontoon boat and backed it into the lake. _


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> I need some help. I recently (2 weeks ago) bought my 5er. It's a 2007 32' copper canyon. It has ST225/75R15 load range D tires on it. The date code dates them to the 27th week of 2010. That being said, I'm about to purchase 5 new tires. I plan on buying load range E tires. So far, I haven't been able to find a maximum psi for the wheels. Max weight for each wheel is 2830. They are plain Jane steel wheels, most likely OEM. I haven't taken them off yet, so I don't know if it's stamped on the rear of the wheels anywhere. An internet search doesn't reveal much either. Are most/all steel wheels rated for 80 psi?
> 
> Thanks.



Should be stamped on the back of the spokes of the wheels. Most likely they are rated for 80psi, unless putting Goodyear 614's or Sailun's on should not be a problem.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> I need some help. So far, I haven't been able to find a maximum psi for the wheels.


The PSI rating for the wheel is often stamped on the inside. The tire changer will have to look for you. Great idea to move up to "E" tires if the wheel can handle it. Maybe take the spare into a tire shop and see if they can tell you.



North of Mouse said:


> Ok, I'll chime in!! For some reason cannot make the transition to drive it with/without tow.


Good friends just switched from a T@b to a 28ft TT and just bought a 38ft Class A. She would never tow any of the trailers, but has already driven the MH 3 times and they have only had it 6 weeks. Her husband was an OTR truck driver so it's no big deal to him. Our friend said the MH "was easy".

j


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> Should be stamped on the back of the spokes of the wheels. Most likely they are rated for 80psi, unless putting Goodyear 614's or Sailun's on should not be a problem.


Yeah, wasn't planning on either. I'm off Wednesday, so I'll pull one of the wheels off and see if it's stamped on the back. We've had a considerable amount of rain recently, so it's too wet to crawl under. I'm still waiting on my doggone truck, too. Hopefully I'll get it Wednesday evening.


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> The PSI rating for the wheel is often stamped on the inside. The tire changer will have to look for you. Great idea to move up to "E" tires if the wheel can handle it. Maybe take the spare into a tire shop and see if they can tell you.
> 
> 
> Good friends just switched from a T@b to a 28ft TT and just bought a 38ft Class A. She would never tow any of the trailers, but has already driven the MH 3 times and they have only had it 6 weeks. Her husband was an OTR truck driver so it's no big deal to him. Our friend said the MH "was easy".
> 
> j


THE SPARE!!! All I have to do is look at the spare! Lol. I didn't even think about it until you mentioned it.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

tiggerdad said:


> Okay, to keep this on a towing subject, I am curious about other females point of view on this.  We got any female posters that have input on driving the rig?



My wife won't touch our current set-up.  Our first camper was a 21' hybrid that we towed with an Explorer.  Roughly 37' in total length.  She would pull that from truck stall to truck stall between service areas on major turnpikes (think OH/IN), but nowhere else.  Our current rig is a 35' trailer towed by a Suburban, about 54' in total length, and she won't go near it - I don't think she ever will.


----------



## proudmomof4

I have a question about towing with a new vehicle.

We just bought a 2018 Chevy Silverado 5.3L V8, there should be no problem towing our 23 foot hybrid.

The manual says not to tow for the first 500 miles of driving and that’s no problem as we don’t have a trip planned until later in September and by then the truck will probably have 1,000 miles on it.

The manual then says not to exceed 50 mph for the first 500 miles of towing. My DH says he just can’t picture us on the interstate doing 50 all the way to the Fort and back.

We would have to do this for September, November and at least 1 other trip to the Fort.

Thoughts?

We live in Tampa and really only camp at FW.


----------



## PaHunter

proudmomof4 said:


> I have a question about towing with a new vehicle.
> 
> We just bought a 2018 Chevy Silverado 5.3L V8, there should be no problem towing our 23 foot hybrid.
> 
> The manual says not to tow for the first 500 miles of driving and that’s no problem as we don’t have a trip planned until later in September and by then the truck will probably have 1,000 miles on it.
> 
> The manual then says not to exceed 50 mph for the first 500 miles of towing. My DH says he just can’t picture us on the interstate doing 50 all the way to the Fort and back.
> 
> We would have to do this for September, November and at least 1 other trip to the Fort.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> We live in Tampa and really only camp at FW.



Once had the owner of a dealership tell me that I should drive the vehicle, normally even during the break in period.  I can't see it being safe to tow at 50mph while towing, and for some people, that would be a lot of trips camping to rack up 500 miles. Never have had a new vehicle that I towed with, strangely enough.


----------



## Teamubr

That's interesting it has it in the manual. The way most engines are manufactured now, there really isn't a "break in" the way there used to be. My RS came with a supplement from Ford Racing that pretty much said the engine is ready to fly from the factory (very high strung engine- 350 hp from 2.3 liters). Hammer it as intended was the summary. We would do a complete rebuild on our race engines and immediately put them on the dyno to tune them. If you haven't seen dyno runs, they are hard pulls at full throttle up to the red line. Tuning generally takes multiple runs before you can get to the "3 averaged runs" for certification. This was on crate engines or rebuilds.

I would think if you had 1000 miles on the truck by the time you needed to tow, I wouldn't worry about anything else. I would consider changing the oil at 1000 miles. This used to be a standard recommendation due to remnant metal from the block machining. The machining residual isn't the primary reason now given the build wash process, but more because of the oil that may be in the new engine. My RS takes 5W50 full synthetic. The oil from the factory was very thin. Others have sent it in for analysis and it tested at 0-5W30.

Either way, get as many miles as you can/need before your trip, hitch up and head out.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Not over 50mph towing for first 500 miles?  You did say Chevy right?  

Just kidding.

I have heard this for every truck including Ford and Dodge as well when it comes to the towing.  Specifically the towing at highway cruise speeds.  Typically recommended to get 500-1000 miles on the vehicle before you tow if possible.  I don't recall ever hearing about towing at 50mph however, just that you should have greater than 500 miles on the vehicle prior.  To me, you are at increased risk of causing an accident if you were towing on interstate at 50 mph.

I do agree with Teamubr, and I do typically change my oil after first 1000 miles.  We have done same with tractors after about 30-50 hours of initial use we would change the oil in them for same reason.  Just in case there is any free metal floating around from manufacturer though recent advances have probably eliminated this need.  It's just an old habit.


----------



## peg110

Break it in like you want to drive it. That's the advice I was given.

My first new car was a Dodge Shadow Turbo 5 Speed that I picked up when I was in Germany (in the Military). I picked it in Bremerhaven Germany and had a 300 Mile Trip back to my base.... on the Autobahn.... 50 MPH wasn't going to work well for me on that trip. I think I did 55 MPH for the first 25 Miles... then I said screw it and pumped the Cruise control to 85 the rest of the trip (That's the fastest the car would allow the cruise control to set.)

Had no issues with that car (at least not related the engine).

I cannot imagine traveling on the Interstate even here in the USA at 50 MPH and not getting run off the road at some point by someone else with road rage.


----------



## Sluf

I got my 5th wheel rails mounted today. Gonna bring my camper home Thursday or Friday. I had to make a place for it. I've had to pay storage for a month while I was waiting to get my hitch installed and the parking spot cleared. Gotta say, I'm pretty excited.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Sluf said:


> I got my 5th wheel rails mounted today. Gonna bring my camper home Thursday or Friday. I had to make a place for it. I've had to pay storage for a month while I was waiting to get my hitch installed and the parking spot cleared. Gotta say, I'm pretty excited.



Congrats - and good luck.  I'm jealous.  When we moved from MA to WI, 3 years ago, I lost my at-home spot for our trailer.  We've had ours stored at a lot 15 minutes from the house ever since.  Not only is the money annoying, but I really miss the convenience of having it right there for maintenance, loading, unloading, etc...


----------



## Sluf

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Congrats - and good luck.  I'm jealous.  When we moved from MA to WI, 3 years ago, I lost my at-home spot for our trailer.  We've had ours stored at a lot 15 minutes from the house ever since.  Not only is the money annoying, but I really miss the convenience of having it right there for maintenance, loading, unloading, etc...


At the moment, mine is at a storage facility about 5 minutes from my house. Like you, it's not very far, but it is inconvenient. Not sure what you're having to pay, but mine isn't bad at $25/month. It's definitely going to be better having it at home to work on it.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Sluf said:


> Not sure what you're having to pay, but mine isn't bad at $25/month.



Wow - $25 is great.    I'm at $59 and that's a pretty good price around here (and it's 15 minutes from the house).  Of course, we are in a more suburban and heavily populated area, so that plays a role.  Enjoy having it at home.


----------



## Sluf

Not sure if yours is covered at $59, but mine is not.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Sluf said:


> Not sure if yours is covered at $59, but mine is not.



Nope!


----------



## Sluf

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Nope!


Wow. That IS insane. When I bought my camper a few weeks ago, I didn't have anywhere to put it. I was very pleasantly surprised at the cheap price.


----------



## proudmomof4

You two have it good at $25 and $59. Here in central FL uncovered goes for $100+ and covered is $200+.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

proudmomof4 said:


> You two have it good at $25 and $59. Here in central FL uncovered goes for $100+ and covered is $200+.



I had done some looking with the concept of leaving the trailer down there between trips in a couple years - and that's what I found.  Ouch!


----------



## PaHunter

Only one of two running original four door cab over.


----------



## Sluf

Wow! That's freakin' awesome!

I'd LOVE to have a medium duty truck eventually. Used commercial cab fire trucks can be gotten CHEAP. I'd feel right at home in it, too!


----------



## himandher818

Looks ummm ... comfortable. Are you looking at a new truck again? The Volvo just not working out?


----------



## Teamubr

DS would love that cabover 

She complains about the climb up in the F350. 

My camper also sits in storage about 2 miles from the house. We pay $1/ft, so $42/month for uncovered. I only know of one covered place anywhere near me. It's about 30 minutes away. They had a booth at the RV show. When I asked about pricing, they said $250/month. I said I'll keep my cover on it outside for that.

j


----------



## jbrostek

Wander how one of the Isuzu COE crew cab MDT would be for hauling......

I am good with the F350, but man that would be a killer turning radius for parking.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> Wow! That's freakin' awesome!
> 
> I'd LOVE to have a medium duty truck eventually. Used commercial cab fire trucks can be gotten CHEAP. I'd feel right at home in it, too!



 
Was another one for sale. And no our Volvo is doing great.


----------



## PaHunter

himandher818 said:


> Looks ummm ... comfortable. Are you looking at a new truck again? The Volvo just not working out?



Our truck is working out great, she needs some love, but it good time, and I am done buying vehicles.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> View attachment 347167
> Was another one for sale. And no our Volvo is doing great.


OK, now I'm in love!


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Hey Guys...long time lurker of this thread!

After being a solo tent camper for years, I'm making the leap and buying a pop-up trailer and vehicle to tow it with.  The trailer I'm in the market to buy is this one: http://www.forestriverinc.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=386&Image=15975&ModelID=944#Main 

What is the recommended vehicle to tow this with?  I have to drive down from Canada through the mountains so I want something that will have good mileage.


----------



## Sluf

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Hey Guys...long time lurker of this thread!
> 
> After being a solo tent camper for years, I'm making the leap and buying a pop-up trailer and vehicle to tow it with.  The trailer I'm in the market to buy is this one: http://www.forestriverinc.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=386&Image=15975&ModelID=944#Main
> 
> What is the recommended vehicle to tow this with?  I have to drive down from Canada through the mountains so I want something that will have good mileage.


Which model? It looks like the weights vary from 2000 lbs to 2700 lbs. Most anything, crossover and up, will pull that weight.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Sluf said:


> Which model? It looks like the weights vary from 2000 lbs to 2700 lbs. Most anything, crossover and up, will pull that weight.



I'm looking at the A122S which has the front storage 

Hitch weight: 284 lb. 
Unloaded Vehicle Weight: 2120 lb. 
Cargo Carrying Capacity: 1164 lb.
I've been looking around at new to me vehicles but most of the hitches are rated for 1000 lbs when it comes to SUV's or crossovers.


----------



## Sluf

If the hitch has a 2" receiver, it is a class III or class IV. Class III hitches are rated to pull 6000lbs (gross trailer weight), with a maximum of 600lbs tongue weight. Class IV hitches are rated to pull up to 10,000lbs, with a maximum of 1000lbs tongue weight.

Class I and II hitches have a 1-1/4" receiver, but even a class I has 2000lbs towing capacity. I think you may have looked at the tongue weight of those vehicles, and it may have had a Class IV hitch, with 1000lbs tongue weight.


----------



## jbrostek

PaHunter said:


> View attachment 347167
> Was another one for sale. And no our Volvo is doing great.



Lose that front bumper though.  I could see using that for a long road trip.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Sluf said:


> If the hitch has a 2" receiver, it is a class III or class IV. Class III hitches are rated to pull 6000lbs (gross trailer weight), with a maximum of 600lbs tongue weight. Class IV hitches are rated to pull up to 10,000lbs, with a maximum of 1000lbs tongue weight.
> 
> Class I and II hitches have a 1-1/4" receiver, but even a class I has 2000lbs towing capacity. I think you may have looked at the tongue weight of those vehicles, and it may have had a Class IV hitch, with 1000lbs tongue weight.



Ok..I'll try to remember that when I'm shopping for cars


----------



## Teamubr

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> I've been looking around at new to me vehicles but most of the hitches are rated for 1000 lbs when it comes to SUV's or crossovers.





Sluf said:


> Class IV hitches are rated to pull up to 10,000lbs, with a maximum of 1000lbs tongue weight.


Sluf covered it pretty well, but to clarify when you saw the hitch is "rated for 1000 lbs", that likely is the tongue/hitch weight and not the total weight of the trailer. Trailer weights and ratings are some of the most confusing things to sort out because there are many names for the same thing.

It looks like the max weight of the trailer (trailer it self and all the "stuff" you can put in) is just below 3500 lbs. (Unloaded weight + Cargo Carrying Capacity- your "stuff"). That fits with the listed hitch (tongue) weight of 284. 1100 lbs of stuff is a lot for a smallish pop up. I generally have about 1000 lbs of "stuff" in my 5th wheel. That includes, chairs, 50 gallons of water (in the holding tank), grills, Mickey Lamp, clothes, food and "junk". I would look for a vehicle that has at least a 3500 lb tow rating. That should include many SUVs, smaller pick ups and some cars.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Well being the late comer to this party, as everyone above has covered most everything else I will just chime in with the following. If you are looking at a front storage unit, be aware loading up that storage area will increase your tongue weight some. Especially if you threw something like a horseshoe set in there. Enjoy once you start, it gets addicting.....


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Teamubr said:


> Sluf covered it pretty well, but to clarify when you saw the hitch is "rated for 1000 lbs", that likely is the tongue/hitch weight and not the total weight of the trailer. Trailer weights and ratings are some of the most confusing things to sort out because there are many names for the same thing.
> 
> It looks like the max weight of the trailer (trailer it self and all the "stuff" you can put in) is just below 3500 lbs. (Unloaded weight + Cargo Carrying Capacity- your "stuff"). That fits with the listed hitch (tongue) weight of 284. 1100 lbs of stuff is a lot for a smallish pop up. I generally have about 1000 lbs of "stuff" in my 5th wheel. That includes, chairs, 50 gallons of water (in the holding tank), grills, Mickey Lamp, clothes, food and "junk". I would look for a vehicle that has at least a 3500 lb tow rating. That should include many SUVs, smaller pick ups and some cars.
> 
> j



Ok!  Yes this is confusing territory.  We've had trailers for years before we bought our cottage in Muskoka Ontario but I'm kicking myself for never paying attention when dad was around.  Part of me is seriously leaning towards a Dodge Ram 1500 which will have no problem towing the pop-up.  But budget may make me choose something like a Jeep Cherokee or Ford Explorer (although I swore I would never drive one again after losing 3 trannies in my first one)



PaHunter said:


> Well being the late comer to this party, as everyone above has covered most everything else I will just chime in with the following. If you are looking at a front storage unit, be aware loading up that storage area will increase your tongue weight some. Especially if you threw something like a horseshoe set in there. Enjoy once you start, it gets addicting.....



Front storage is strictly for the "outdoor stuff" like chairs, mat, and anything else that's light and sandy/wet.  Never thought that it would affect tongue weight though so thanks for that!


----------



## 2goofycampers

Being solo and driving through the mountains I would want the Dodge 1500. Better to have too much towing power than not enough.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Ok!  Yes this is confusing territory.  We've had trailers for years before we bought our cottage in Muskoka Ontario but I'm kicking myself for never paying attention when dad was around.  Part of me is seriously leaning towards a Dodge Ram 1500 which will have no problem towing the pop-up.  But budget may make me choose something like a Jeep Cherokee or Ford Explorer (although I swore I would never drive one again after losing 3 trannies in my first one)
> 
> 
> 
> Front storage is strictly for the "outdoor stuff" like chairs, mat, and anything else that's light and sandy/wet.  Never thought that it would affect tongue weight though so thanks for that!



You seem to be on track.  Just remember that *everything* you put in or on your trailer *AND* *everything *you put in or on your truck has to be accounted for in your tow capacity.  Some manufacturers account for a 150 pound driver, but nothing else.  So, if you have a 225 pound driver, a 150 pound passenger, 2 kids, a dog and gear in a car, you could easily eat up 500 pounds of your 'tow capacity' with things in the car.  Start adding bikes, canoes, whatever, and it could be more.  All in all, I personally would want to be closer to 4,500+ in the tow capacity for that trailer, but we are a family of 5.  Your circumstances influence that a lot.  In our case, we have a 2017 Explorer with the tow package and I wouldn't blink at the notion of driving around the country with that trailer - no brainer!


----------



## Sluf

So I was finally able to pull my 5er out and work on it. What started out as a simple day turned into a nightmare very quickly. 

A little backstory... I bought my camper at the beginning of August. I was waiting for my cousin to get his car out of the body shop before I could buy my truck from him. Before I got the truck  we found the camper that fit EXACTLY what we were looking for. We went ahead and bought it and had a buddy of mine pull it to a storage area. I got my truck a week and a half later, and got the hitch in it a week after that. I had to cut a tree down and remove a fence in order to get the camper into the spot I needed to at my mom's house across the street. There's absolutely no way I can get it into mine. So I got the camper home, leveled it, and plugged it in. Fast forward to today...

I decided I'd pull it out and take it to one of our firehalls that has a large parking lot to adjust the brakes. Well, it rained here yesterday. Yep. I got stuck. Had to unhook and pull out. A buddy of mine lives next door, so off to the quarry we went with his truck and dump trailer. 5.7 tons later, I was able to hook to it and pull it out. I got it to the firehall and jacked up the rear axle and adjusted the brakes on both sides. Dropped it, and jacked up the front axle. Got the curb side adjusted and moved to the road side. THE BRAKE WIRES WERE CUT. I had absolutely no brakes on the front axle. Needless to say, I got it fixed up and ready to go. Then, on the way back home, it almost pushed me thru a stop sign. Looked at the brake controller, no light. Eased it the rest of the way home, about 1/2 mile. The plug had backed out because the door spring is broken. So, guess what's on its way from Amazon? 

What a day...


----------



## Sluf

Here's my truck and 5er.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> . Then, on the way back home, it almost pushed me thru a stop sign. Looked at the brake controller, no light. Eased it the rest of the way home, about 1/2 mile. The plug had backed out because the door spring is broken. So, guess what's on its way from Amazon?
> 
> What a day...



Happened to a friend of mine, with his grandkids in the vehicle, and he almost hit another family, when his trailer pushed him thru a stop sign. Scary stuff, hope the rest of your week is uneventful.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Sorry Rodney!  Hope things turn better from here!


----------



## Sluf

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Sorry Rodney!  Hope things turn better from here!


Oh, it's all good now. I'm just glad all of these things are showing themselves now instead of 700 miles from home! I'm gonna go ahead and buy a new brake controller as well. Currently I have a Tekonsha Voyager. I'm gonna replace it with a Tekonsha P3. I don't like the way the setup and adjustment TS are made on the Voyager.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> Oh, it's all good now. I'm just glad all of these things are showing themselves now instead of 700 miles from home! I'm gonna go ahead and buy a new brake controller as well. Currently I have a Tekonsha Voyager. I'm gonna replace it with a Tekonsha P3. I don't like the way the setup and adjustment TS are made on the Voyager.



You could also look at Direclink brake controllers, from Tucson RV. They hook in to your vehicles computer and use it to apply the brake instead of being inertia initiated.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> You could also look at Direclink brake controllers, from Tucson RV. They hook in to your vehicles computer and use it to apply the brake instead of being inertia initiated.


I'll do that. I've never heard of them.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> You could also look at Direclink brake controllers, from Tucson RV. They hook in to your vehicles computer and use it to apply the brake instead of being inertia initiated.


OK, so I checked out the Direclink controllers. The two controllers that I compared is the DL-50 and DL-100. The DL-50 lacks the ability to separately adjust for low speed braking (below 30mph), as well as it doesn't show trans temp. I already have a trans temp gauge, so that's a non factor. That leaves the ability to separately adjust for low speed braking. The DL-50 is $195 vs $299 for the DL-100. Can you justify another $104 for the ability to adjust low speed braking? I probably won't be pulling my camper more than 20 miles at a time except once or twice a year to the Fort.


----------



## Sluf

Well, I pulled the trigger on the Direclink DL-100. My wife talked me into it (it wasn't hard). It should be here one day this week. I've been working a considerable amount of overtime recently, so it wasn't a real big deal. I'm also going to buy a new set of tires for the camper this week or next. The date code on the current tires date them to July 2010. No way I'm pulling it anywhere significant with tires that old.

I'll post an update once I install the new brake controller.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> Well, I pulled the trigger on the Direclink DL-100. My wife talked me into it (it wasn't hard). It should be here one day this week. I've been working a considerable amount of overtime recently, so it wasn't a real big deal. I'm also going to buy a new set of tires for the camper this week or next. The date code on the current tires date them to July 2010. No way I'm pulling it anywhere significant with tires that old.
> 
> I'll post an update once I install the new brake controller.



I know there are quite a few of us running the direclink in our hdt's which also requires an extra cable. They are nice units, and new shoes on the trailer are always good, as you don't want a blowout.


----------



## Sluf

Something I noticed about the Tekonsha Voyager is the inability for me to get it set "correctly" so it doesn't jerk as soon as I tap the pedal. It doesn't seem to do it at higher speeds, only at lower speeds. That's why I went with the DL-100 so I could have the low speed adjustment as well.

It seemed like the Tekonsha jerked as soon as the brakes were applied, but when I adjusted that out at low speed, it seemed like I didn't have enough braking at higher speed. The dual adjustment on the DL-100 should take that out, right?


----------



## tiggerdad

Sluf said:


> I'm also going to buy a new set of tires for the camper this week or next. The date code on the current tires date them to July 2010. No way I'm pulling it anywhere significant with tires that old.



Good call, I don't go over 5 years.  My trailer came with new Goodyear tires on it and March of 2017 was 5 years for them.  On inspection, I found a bubble on the backside of one of them.  So, that just reinforced my mindset that at 5 years they getting replaced no matter what.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> Something I noticed about the Tekonsha Voyager is the inability for me to get it set "correctly" so it doesn't jerk as soon as I tap the pedal. It doesn't seem to do it at higher speeds, only at lower speeds. That's why I went with the DL-100 so I could have the low speed adjustment as well.
> 
> It seemed like the Tekonsha jerked as soon as the brakes were applied, but when I adjusted that out at low speed, it seemed like I didn't have enough braking at higher speed. The dual adjustment on the DL-100 should take that out, right?



I would believe so, there is a setting for the weight of the trailer, and it reads your braking input thru your vehicle computer and applies the trailer brakes. The reason I went with Direclink was because of the truck having air brakes. Otherwise you have to tap in to the air system and it causes the computer to then apply the trailer brakes. 
This seemed to be the best way, and so far we have really had no problems and it works well with our set up.


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> Good call, I don't go over 5 years.  My trailer came with new Goodyear tires on it and March of 2017 was 5 years for them.  On inspection, I found a bubble on the backside of one of them.  So, that just reinforced my mindset that at 5 years they getting replaced no matter what.



I have been thinking I am due for new trailers on the Aliner (which is a 2014 model but was built fall of 2013).  It will be time this fall to replace them before we take our next long trip.

ED


----------



## mco65

Where do you get tires put on your trailer...?  Your friendly neighborhood tire shop or an RV Shop. i Suspect they can do it at the local tire shop... but may have to swap them with the trailer on the ground with a jack.. vs a lift??


----------



## Sluf

mco65 said:


> Where do you get tires put on your trailer...?  Your friendly neighborhood tire shop or an RV Shop. i Suspect they can do it at the local tire shop... but may have to swap them with the trailer on the ground with a jack.. vs a lift??


Local tire shop. Called yesterday and they said they'd mount and balance all 5 for $100.


----------



## Sluf

So a little update. I got my Direclink DL-100 controller in Wednesday. I got home from work at about 7:20p. Whoever put the Tekonsha brake controller in my truck (2 owners ago) didn't use the factory plug and harness. They cut the plug off the controller AND the truck and hard-wired it in. The Direclink came with a harness to hard-wire in as well. I cut out the old controller and butt-spliced the new harness in. In hindsight I wish I would have use blade connectors. That way I could leave my Tekonsha in place as a backup and simply swap wires if need be. Total install was about 20 minutes. I may very well go back and add the blade connectors. I also replaced the faulty plug in my bed that allowed the 5er to come unplugged the other day. The last thing I did was to install a dual USB power port in place of the factory power port on the dash of my 2001 f250  

Anyway, I pulled the camper for the first time today with the new brake controller. HOLY COW! I absolutely love it! Once I got it adjusted, you can't even tell the camper is there! 

Buying it was a pleasure as well. The customer service was TOP NOTCH. Believe it or not, they changed a company policy because of me. That's usually a bad thing, right? I asked if they gave a first responder discount and was told that they didn't, but they DID give a military discount. After I ordered it on Friday, they emailed me on Monday and said they were going to offer a first responder (police/fire/ems) discount from now on, and refunded 10% of my order.

Today, I went and had all 4 tires changed from ST225/75r15 load range D, to load range E. Also had the spare changed. I also went and bought some clear storage totes to put all our stuff in. One sewer tote, an electrical/lighting tote, and a tote for supply water hoses, etc. 

Now if I can just get the next 156 days to hurry up and pass!


----------



## tiggerdad

Sluf said:


> So a little update. I got my Direclink DL-100 controller in Wednesday. I got home from work at about 7:20p. Whoever put the Tekonsha brake controller in my truck (2 owners ago) didn't use the factory plug and harness. They cut the plug off the controller AND the truck and hard-wired it in. The Direclink came with a harness to hard-wire in as well. I cut out the old controller and butt-spliced the new harness in. In hindsight I wish I would have use blade connectors. That way I could leave my Tekonsha in place as a backup and simply swap wires if need be. Total install was about 20 minutes. I may very well go back and add the blade connectors. I also replaced the faulty plug in my bed that allowed the 5er to come unplugged the other day. The last thing I did was to install a dual USB power port in place of the factory power port on the dash of my 2001 f250
> 
> Anyway, I pulled the camper for the first time today with the new brake controller. HOLY COW! I absolutely love it! Once I got it adjusted, you can't even tell the camper is there!
> 
> Buying it was a pleasure as well. The customer service was TOP NOTCH. Believe it or not, they changed a company policy because of me. That's usually a bad thing, right? I asked if they gave a first responder discount and was told that they didn't, but they DID give a military discount. After I ordered it on Friday, they emailed me on Monday and said they were going to offer a first responder (police/fire/ems) discount from now on, and refunded 10% of my order.
> 
> Today, I went and had all 4 tires changed from ST225/75r15 load range D, to load range E. Also had the spare changed. I also went and bought some clear storage totes to put all our stuff in. One sewer tote, an electrical/lighting tote, and a tote for supply water hoses, etc.
> 
> Now if I can just get the next 156 days to hurry up and pass!



Always good when they throw us first responders a little discount.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Always good when they throw us first responders a little discount.



Oh yes we like discounts.....


----------



## bama_ed

mco65 said:


> Where do you get tires put on your trailer...?  Your friendly neighborhood tire shop or an RV Shop. i Suspect they can do it at the local tire shop... but may have to swap them with the trailer on the ground with a jack.. vs a lift??



I have always used my local tire shop.  They've been taking care of me for over 25 years (up to 6 vehicles have been in the family fleet if you include the trailer) so why go elsewhere?

I give them the size/type and they give me a couple options.

Bama Ed


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> I have always used my local tire shop.  They've been taking care of me for over 25 years (up to 6 vehicles have been in the family fleet if you include the trailer) so why go elsewhere?
> 
> I give them the size/type and they give me a couple options.
> 
> Bama Ed



Good to have somebody like that.  Like having a preferred mechanic.


----------



## PaHunter

Shows how they work a weigh station. Most RV's do not need to stop. But at 7:22 you see the scan of an RV being towed by HDT which do need to stop.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> Shows how they work a weigh station. Most RV's do not need to stop. But at 7:22 you see the scan of an RV being towed by HDT which do need to stop.


That is VERY interesting! I never knew how the scales worked.


----------



## Teamubr

Chris,

Nice video. Fascinating to see the technology built into the new scales.

You said a coupe of times you have to stop at the scales in Florida. Is that a Florida specific thing? When I was racing and pulling a 48 ft enclosed gooseneck that weighted a little over 20k, I talked to the Il State Police who man the weigh stations and he kind of laughed and said, if we aren't commercial, they don't want us bothering them. Missouri told my team mate the same thing when he bought the toter. 40 ft "RV" on a Freightliner class 8 chassis pulling a 40 ft, 13.5 ft tall tag stacker trailer. As soon as he put "Not for Hire" and "RV" on it, they aren't interested and don't want you clogging up the scales.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> Chris,
> 
> Nice video. Fascinating to see the technology built into the new scales.
> 
> You said a coupe of times you have to stop at the scales in Florida. Is that a Florida specific thing? When I was racing and pulling a 48 ft enclosed gooseneck that weighted a little over 20k, I talked to the Il State Police who man the weigh stations and he kind of laughed and said, if we aren't commercial, they don't want us bothering them. Missouri told my team mate the same thing when he bought the toter. 40 ft "RV" on a Freightliner class 8 chassis pulling a 40 ft, 13.5 ft tall tag stacker trailer. As soon as he put "Not for Hire" and "RV" on it, they aren't interested and don't want you clogging up the scales.
> 
> j



The problem became, guys who are commercial, transporting RV from factory to the dealership realized, hey if I leave off my numbers I don't have to stop. Well now with HDT's becoming more popular, if you blow a scale now they most likely will chase you down, and are going to be in a bad mood. At that point they can measure your rig, and a lot of guys are over length. Now you have to wait for a commercial vehicle to come move you. Yea, not worth the risk, i roll thru, they see the private truck on the side, no ifta stickers, and my regular plate, they usually roll me thru. I did get weighed on the way to Alabama last year. 
So the signage for most weigh stations, in most of the states say all trucks must enter....I am a truck. In the video you see trucks come in to the scale bobtail. We are looking at prepass, it would allow us to skip the weigh stations and would also bill our tolls. The nice part there is they do all the toll systems, so I do not need a separate one for PA, then for FL/GA.


----------



## snowmedic

Just curious if any one has used a set of these tie downs before when towing a vehicle on a car trailer.  Thoughts, suggestions? 

https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Class...own+straps&dpPl=1&dpID=51zWxbCypIL&ref=plSrch


----------



## Teamubr

Vince,

Lots of guys we raced with used these. Not sure if they were that brand, but definitely that style. We didn't use them with the enclosed trailer, it was too hard to get them attached on the sides, but they looked like they worked well on an open trailer.

j


----------



## snowmedic

Thanks,  I was wanting to get something that would work for securing the vehicle without trying to crawl under and finding a spot on the frame.  I was sitting here today trying to figure out how to secure the car to a trailer that had no straps and came across these.


----------



## Teamubr

I'll open the trailer tire can of worms. With the incident on the way home from GSP (destroyed brake wiring and 2 LP gas lines), I'll be replacing the factory "Constancy" tires after less than 3 years and still lots of good looking tread (when it stays attached to the actual tire). It's been a while since I bought camper trailer tires. A lot of the RV sites recommend Goodyear G614 RST or G670 RV. The 614 comes in a size that will work (235/85R16- originals are 235/80R16), but they are load range G rated. I doubt the factory aluminum wheels are rated for that. The 670 doesn't even come in my sizes and is Load H rated. Tire Rack and others are really pushing the "new" Goodyear Endurance. I assume this replaced the Marathon which I used to advocate for, but went to trash a while back.

Anybody know anything about the Goodyear Endurance or have another trailer tire they recommend? looking for 235/80 or 85R16 load range E. The "85" should fit. They are 1 inch larger in diameter, but have over 200lbs higher max load and rotate less being taller (less heat).

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> I'll open the trailer tire can of worms. With the incident on the way home from GSP (destroyed brake wiring and 2 LP gas lines), I'll be replacing the factory "Trail Master" tires after less than 3 years and still lots of good looking tread (when it stays attached to the actual tire). It's been a while since I bought camper trailer tires. A lot of the RV sites recommend Goodyear G614 RST or G670 RV. The 614 comes in a size that will work (235/85R16- originals are 235/80R16), but they are load range G rated. I doubt the factory aluminum wheels are rated for that. The 670 doesn't even come in my sizes and is Load H rated. Tire Rack and others are really pushing the "new" Goodyear Endurance. I assume this replaced the Marathon which I used to advocate for, but went to trash a while back.
> 
> Anybody know anything about the Goodyear Endurance or have another trailer tire they recommend? looking for 235/80 or 85R16 load range E. The "85" should fit. They are 1 inch larger in diameter, but have over 200lbs higher max load and rotate less being taller (less heat).
> 
> j


I couldn't give an educated opinion on the Goodyear tires. I went cheap, but I also went from a load range D to load range E. The tires on my 5er are 225/75r15.


----------



## PaHunter

snowmedic said:


> Just curious if any one has used a set of these tie downs before when towing a vehicle on a car trailer.  Thoughts, suggestions?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Class...own+straps&dpPl=1&dpID=51zWxbCypIL&ref=plSrch



That is what most of the guys use to secure their smart cars down on the back of the HDT's once they are loaded.


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> I'll open the trailer tire can of worms. With the incident on the way home from GSP (destroyed brake wiring and 2 LP gas lines), I'll be replacing the factory "Trail Master" tires after less than 3 years and still lots of good looking tread (when it stays attached to the actual tire). It's been a while since I bought camper trailer tires. A lot of the RV sites recommend Goodyear G614 RST or G670 RV. The 614 comes in a size that will work (235/85R16- originals are 235/80R16), but they are load range G rated. I doubt the factory aluminum wheels are rated for that. The 670 doesn't even come in my sizes and is Load H rated. Tire Rack and others are really pushing the "new" Goodyear Endurance. I assume this replaced the Marathon which I used to advocate for, but went to trash a while back.
> 
> Anybody know anything about the Goodyear Endurance or have another trailer tire they recommend? looking for 235/80 or 85R16 load range E. The "85" should fit. They are 1 inch larger in diameter, but have over 200lbs higher max load and rotate less being taller (less heat).
> 
> j



My original tires on my trailer were Goodyear Endurance.  I can say this, they lasted the customary 5 years.  At 5 years and 4 months (after returning from GSP) one of them bubbled.

I was planning on replacing at 5 years anyway.  I went with cheap gladiators as replacement as I am contemplating a change in the near future.

I hear lots of good reviews on Maxxis and especially on Greenball tires.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> My original tires on my trailer were Goodyear Endurance.  they lasted the customary 5 years.
> 
> I hear lots of good reviews on Maxxis and especially on Greenball tires.


Good to know on the Endurance. I took my Explorer in for new tires after work tonight (had that planned when we returned before the trailer issues). I asked at the tire store about the GY Endurance and he said they haven't been out long enough to have a history yet. I think I'll keep looking. I have also read good things about Maxxis. It seems all the "Best" trailer tires are G rated. The Maxxis 8008 comes in an E.

FWIW- The Sailun 637T is consistently coming up on "best" lists and it's half the price of the Goodyear 614.

I took a look at my wheels tonight. The good news is they are rated to 110 psi. That is a load range G tire, so I'll be bumping up. That will increase the load for the tire from about 3400 lbs/tire (below the axle max of 7000 lbs) to just over 4000 lbs/tire. The trailer loaded, ready to roll weighs about 14,500 with just under 3,000 on the hitch, so everything is well under max capacity.

I think I'll try to find the Sailun and see what 4 of them will run. Autotire quoted me $330/tire for the Goodyear 614 in a 235X80R16 G. 

I know there was conversation earlier about how to tell what load wheel you have. My Coachmen came with cast aluminum wheels. Molded into the back of the spokes are the wheel specs. Here are some pics. I have also had steel wheels where this is stamped on the inside of the wheel on the flat between the side beads.

The tire that blew didn't do the typical heat generated sidewall failure (I've had those and there isn't much left of the sidewall except some shredded rubber around the bead. This tire delaminated the tread. Almost like a retread failure. The tread was in one complete strip, wrapped between the brake back plate and the axle. That is what tore off the LP line and the brake wiring.

Tire (or what's left of it)
 

Wheel psi rating. (110 p.s.i.)

 

Max Load (3860)

 

Wheel size (16X6J) (J is the bead profile)

 

j


----------



## 2goofycampers

Informative posts, thanks.


----------



## jbrostek

If you can side strap on your trailer they are quick and easy.  I converted my trailer to chain box (tow truck style) 8 point tie down.  You can get them to work with D ring, but you'll need at least 3 D ring per side on the outside to make that happen.

This change made it easy for us to tie down golf carts too.




snowmedic said:


> Just curious if any one has used a set of these tie downs before when towing a vehicle on a car trailer.  Thoughts, suggestions?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Class...own+straps&dpPl=1&dpID=51zWxbCypIL&ref=plSrch


----------



## FLBBQMAN

Hello all i put the sailun"s on my last trailer that we just traded in and I bought them from SIMPLETIRE.COM  I had them delivered to the local fedex and i installed them myself and put balancing beads in them. I plan on doing the same on our new unit

Thanks Ryan


----------



## Teamubr

FLBBQMAN said:


> Hello all i put the sailun"s on my last trailer that we just traded in and I bought them from SIMPLETIRE.COM


Thanks,

I ordered Sailuns on Tuesday from Simple Tire. Free shipping to my local tire store and I found a 10% discount code. I couldn't find a bad review on them. Went with a load range G. 235/80R16 G. $138/tire (after discount). Still have to pay the $20/tire to have them mounted and balanced, but I'm still quite happy with under $160 a piece.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I ordered Sailuns on Tuesday from Simple Tire. Free shipping to my local tire store and I found a 10% discount code. I couldn't find a bad review on them. Went with a load range G. 235/80R16 G. $138/tire (after discount). Still have to pay the $20/tire to have them mounted and balanced, but I'm still quite happy with under $160 a piece.
> 
> j



For a load range G tire that price is still not bad at all.


----------



## FFstreetDoc

Teamubr said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I ordered Sailuns on Tuesday from Simple Tire. Free shipping to my local tire store and I found a 10% discount code. I couldn't find a bad review on them. Went with a load range G. 235/80R16 G. $138/tire (after discount). Still have to pay the $20/tire to have them mounted and balanced, but I'm still quite happy with under $160 a piece.
> 
> j


You will be amazed at the difference between the Sailun's and you current tires. If you can, just compare the thickness of the sidewalls and beads. BTW you tire guy is gonna hate you lol. There things are a beast to mount. Took two of us when I did mine, One running the tire machine and one with a huge tire iron assisting to get the bead over the wheel. They are that beefy. The fiver tows like a dream on these tires.


----------



## Teamubr

FFstreetDoc said:


> You will be amazed at the difference between the Sailun's and you current tires.


I hope so. I have 3 of them on now. Fed Ex decided they didn't want to deliver the last on on Friday... or Saturday...or today. Tracking now says it will be in on Monday.

I was impressed how much they don't squat. I figured some of that was the load range G compered to an E and 110 psi. I hope the rolling resistance is enough better to see a mpg improvement. We are going out camping again in 2 weeks. We'll give them a good roll then.

As long as they last more than 3 years before exploding, I'll be happy.

j


----------



## Sluf

So the family and I went camping this past weekend. I got off work at 3pm (4 hours early) Friday, got home and packed the last few things, hooked the camper up, and took off to Pigeon Forge. We stayed at the KOA. We decided to make the trip so we could "try out" the camper, the new brake controller, and see how the truck would pull it. I learned a few things on the short trip, which was what I was looking for. 

#1, I found out that pulling a 5th wheel is MUCH nicer than anything else I've ever pulled. 

#2, according to the trip computer (I know, I know) I got just shy of 12 mpg. Given it was only about 150 miles round trip, that excites me since so much of it was in heavy traffic at low speeds. I'm hoping our Disney trip in February will exceed 12 mpg. 

#3, I had the camper set up and ready to go in about 15 minutes. 

#4, I learned that for our Disney trip, I'll be hauling cinder blocks and wedges to properly stabilize the camper for the week.

#5, I learned that we're going to have a BLAST in February!!!! 146 DAYS!


----------



## tripleb

Sluf,

A FW does pull nice, doesn't it 

Get you one of those tripods that your FW pin sits on. They do a pretty good job of added stabilization. I use ours whenever we are in a campground that has a concrete pad.

The wife and I will be up near Pigeon Forge next week. Actually, just outside Gatlinburg at the Greenbrier Campground. Looking forward to a little cooler weather … gotta be cooler than where we live. (Panhandle of Florida)


----------



## Sluf

tripleb said:


> Sluf,
> 
> A FW does pull nice, doesn't it
> 
> Get you one of those tripods that your FW pin sits on. They do a pretty good job of added stabilization. I use ours whenever we are in a campground that has a concrete pad.
> 
> The wife and I will be up near Pigeon Forge next week. Actually, just outside Gatlinburg at the Greenbrier Campground. Looking forward to a little cooler weather … gotta be cooler than where we live. (Panhandle of Florida)


Highs in the mid 70s to lower 80s over the next couple of weeks here according to my weather app. Should be comparable in Pigeon Forge.

I plan to get a tripod as well, but I figure I can block it up fairly quickly as well.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> So the family and I went camping this past weekend. I learned a few things on the short trip, which was what I was looking for.


Congrats!

5er's do tow nicer (in my opinion). They just feel more stable. No sway, no tail wagging the dog when getting passed by a semi, no WD hitch to deal with. I found them a little harder to get use to backing. With the pin being over the axle, the pivot point is much different than hanging on the bumper behind the axle. Just took some getting use to.

I'm very jealous of the 12 mpg. I did manage to get 9.4 on the total 2,600 mile Fort/GSP trip and some of that was with the no turbo on the truck and an hour of idling on the side of the road to change a tire and wire up the brakes. Without the troubles, I'm sure I could have managed 9.5... 

Have fun and enjoy. 146 days will go fast.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Congrats!
> 
> 5er's do tow nicer (in my opinion). They just feel more stable. No sway, no tail wagging the dog when getting passed by a semi, no WD hitch to deal with. I found them a little harder to get used to backing. With the pin being over the axle, the pivot point is much different than hanging on the bumper behind the axle. Just took some getting used to.
> 
> I'm very jealous of the 12 mpg. I did manage to get 9.4 on the total 2,600 mile Fort/GSP trip and some of that was with the no turbo on the truck and an hour of idling on the side of the road to change a tire and wire up the brakes. Without the troubles, I'm sure I could have managed 9.5...
> 
> Have fun and enjoy. 146 days will go fast.
> 
> j


Luckily (or maybe not) I grew up working on a farm so I pulled a gooseneck trailer a lot. I never pulled it on the road though, as crazy as that sounds. I just pulled it on the farm itself, from the hay/tobacco fields to the barn, etc. The good part of that is backing a 5th wheel is almost second nature.


----------



## tiggerdad

Sluf said:


> Luckily (or maybe not) I grew up working on a farm so I pulled a gooseneck trailer a lot. I never pulled it on the road though, as crazy as that sounds. I just pulled it on the farm itself, from the hay/tobacco fields to the barn, etc. The good part of that is backing a 5th wheel is almost second nature.



Easier than backing a travel trailer in my opinion.  I've adjusted to manipulating my TT, but I can remember from prior over the road driving that the 5th wheel/gooseneck just turned better, by a long shot.


----------



## tiggerdad

Scored a 20,000# capacity Companion hitch for $300.  No way I can tow that weight but figured better to not pass it up.  I think anyway.



Not lot of room between fuelbox...


----------



## Teamubr

Nice, real similar to the one I have except mine drops into the factory holes. But don't you have a TT? 

j


----------



## tiggerdad

I installed a hide-a-ball hitch in it a few weeks back and that's what the Companion is hooked to.

Currently a TT, yes.

Our last trip to Disney we decided enough with the TT.  DDs and wife are endlessly complaining they have outgrown the small shower and we have come to realize we have others camping with us quite frequently and more room is being needed.  Right now, as long as my girls enjoy camping with me I'll entertain idea of upgrading.

Man coming from north MS tomorrow wants to look at my camper for a hunting lease he has in MO.

I have camping trip booked at GSP next weekend...


----------



## tripleb

tiggerdad, the B&W Companion is suppose to be a very good hitch. And at 300 bucks, you can't go wrong. You may not be able to tow that much weight but you got a hitch you don't have to worry about.


----------



## tiggerdad

It's heavy enough for sure.

We'll see how this works out.  Camping World in Jackson has the toy hauler we want, just matter of numbers.  Beefing up rear-end in truck as well.


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> It's heavy enough for sure.
> 
> We'll see how this works out.  Camping World in Jackson has the toy hauler we want, just matter of numbers.  Beefing up rear-end in truck as well.


By beefing up the rear, do you airbags? If so, I bought mine off of Amazon for something like $265. Loadlifter 5000. That's JUST the airbags and brackets. That DOES NOT include the compressor and such. Fairly easy job for the mechanically inclined. It took me about an hour and a half to mount mine.


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> Scored a 20,000# capacity Companion hitch for $300.  No way I can tow that weight but figured better to not pass it up.  I think anyway.
> 
> View attachment 354816
> 
> Not lot of room between fuelbox...
> 
> View attachment 354817


My front rail is close enough to my fuel tank that I can't put the pin in from the front without some considerable effort.


----------



## tiggerdad

5000# capacity airbags, Firestone's for $425 but with mail in $75 rebate.  I opted not to install compressor for now.  I always keep a compressor with me for airing tires so I'll adjust the airbags with that for now.  Maybe add compressor later.

For good measure I'm considering increasing rear block from 2" to 4", most likely overkill with the airbags but possibly what I'll do.

Decisions, decisions...


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> 5000# capacity airbags, Firestone's for $425 but with mail in $75 rebate.  I opted not to install compressor for now.  I always keep a compressor with me for airing tires so I'll adjust the airbags with that for now.  Maybe add compressor later.
> 
> For good measure I'm considering increasing rear block from 2" to 4", most likely overkill with the airbags but possibly what I'll do.
> 
> Decisions, decisions...


My airbags raise my 2001 F250 back to within 1/2" of empty height. I achieved that with about 40 psi in the bags. I ran them on up to 50 psi and there was no change in height, but I liked the ride at 50. For the time being, I don't have a compressor either. I'm in the same boat with you. I'm just gonna take my compressor with me on the road. I do plan to install a 3-5 gallon air tank and plumb everything in with a regulator in the cab so I can adjust the pressure on the fly. It'll take a little bit of ingenuity though. A standard regulator like I plan to use will dump air EVERY time the pressure spikes, such as when you hit a bump, etc. I won't be able to replenish the air over a long period of time, so I'll have to add a check valve in line, with a manual dump after the check. That way pressure spikes won't dump. 

I have a 1/4" solenoid valve that I intend to plumb into my external fuel tank as well, with a switch on the dash to start transferring fuel while I'm on the road. I'll probably do the same with the airbags so I can lower the pressure since the check valve will make that impossible.

Kinda off topic, but if I get the same/better mileage than we did on our short trip last weekend, I should be able to make it from Knoxville to Orlando without stopping for fuel!


----------



## tripleb

What year truck do you have tiggerdad? Be careful lifting the rear as you will end up with a nose high FW.


----------



## tiggerdad

tripleb said:


> What year truck do you have tiggerdad? Be careful lifting the rear as you will end up with a nose high FW.


2012 f250

Increasing block height to same as f350.  Just giving her some extra sag room.  Good thing about airbags is can adjust to level her out.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> 2012 f250
> 
> Increasing block height to same as f350.  Just giving her some extra sag room.  Good thing about airbags is can adjust to level her out.



And you can move the pin box on the fifth wheel to adjust yourself to level if need be. You would have a couple inches of play there also, so no worries. Wow, glad we are in  61 next year for GSP, and not on Toy Hauler Row.


----------



## JETS70

tiggerdad said:


> It's heavy enough for sure.
> 
> We'll see how this works out.  Camping World in Jackson has the toy hauler we want, just matter of numbers.  Beefing up rear-end in truck as well.



@tiggerdad We love our toy hauler. Like you, the more room for family and friends, the better.  When I was looking for ours, the one thing I wanted was an open concept floor plan. I can have at least 6 people in my Coachman at one time and everyone has a seat in the same area. we can talk and eat together without some having to be separated in the garage area and the living room area. The only thing I would liked to have had was the kitchen area in a slideout to give more usable floor space. We are currently looking at a Keystone Impact 3118. The refrigerator and stove are in a slide and the bed is a walkaround bed. The camper itself is about 5 feet longer. When we went in, we were amazed at the difference the slide and 5 feet made. Good luck with the camper shopping.


----------



## sirenia88

Good luck with the new trailer purchase @tiggerdad  Ironically, my new trailer would have been right at the mark with my old 250.   I always said I would go no more than 10K and we are at around 9500 total.  It would have pulled with no problem since my 2016 350 was pretty much identical to my 11 250. Thankfully, we went with a 350 in mind of a new trailer for the future.  Just didn't expect both in the same year.  Who knows probably a 1 ton dually will be in your future.


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> 2012 f250
> 
> Increasing block height to same as f350.  Just giving her some extra sag room.  Good thing about airbags is can adjust to level her out.


Not sure about the 2012 F250s, but the 99-03 F250s have the exact same springs as the F350s. Changing the blocks and U bolts does nothing more than raise it to the height of an F350, just as you said.


----------



## tiggerdad

350 has the taller block and helper spring.  Depending on who you ask the 350 has a 37 spline shaft where the 250 has 35.  Also shaft diameter of 250 2.5" and reportedly the 350 is 2.57.  Again, depends on who you ask.  Turns into heated debate sometimes but the two diesel mechanics I've talked with about it told me the only 350s they saw with bigger rear shafts and increased splines were the DRW 350 and not the SRW.  Again, this is always a debate.

I'm just looking at keeping her level.  Not sure on weight of trailer as we haven't decided model yet.

Looking at toy hauler 5th wheels, but smaller ones.  Not like Randy and Patricks 18000# rigs. Way past my limits.

Dually not really an option for me as I have to use it for everyday ride and our assigned parking at work is hard enough with the 250.  Not saying I won't, but not likely.  Wife due for new vehicle soon and my oldest is just 3 years from driving.  So I really don't want another truck note knowing my camper notes are gonna be higher also.


----------



## Sluf

I have a question about leveling my 5er for towing. It has to be considerably high in the front since I have to drop it so far to level it after I unhook it. I have a dilemma though. The pin box is adjusted all the way down, and my hitch is adjusted all the way up. I imagine the hitch would be easier to adjust than the pin box, especially since I'll be doing it myself. I have just under 12" between the bed and the camper, so I have a lot of room to spare. My dilemma is this. I really want to put a truck box above my 37 gallon transfer tank. Since I just bought my truck about 6 weeks ago, and know very little about it, I plan to replace some parts before I make a 730 mile trip to FW. The water pumps on these 7.3s are notorious for going out at around 190k. I'm at 213k. I plan to replace the serpentine belt, idler, tensioner, upper and lower radiator hoses, etc while I'm there. I'd like to have my truck box in there so I can put all those parts in it in case something were to happen along the way. What do you think  Leave it high, or lower it?


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> 350 has the taller block and helper spring.  Depending on who you ask the 350 has a 37 spline shaft where the 250 has 35.  Also shaft diameter of 250 2.5" and reportedly the 350 is 2.57.  Again, depends on who you ask.  Turns into heated debate sometimes but the two diesel mechanics I've talked with about it told me the only 350s they saw with bigger rear shafts and increased splines were the DRW 350 and not the SRW.  Again, this is always a debate.
> 
> I'm just looking at keeping her level.  Not sure on weight of trailer as we haven't decided model yet.
> 
> Looking at toy hauler 5th wheels, but smaller ones.  Not like Randy and Patricks 18000# rigs. Way past my limits.
> 
> Dually not really an option for me as I have to use it for everyday ride and our assigned parking at work is hard enough with the 250.  Not saying I won't, but not likely.  Wife due for new vehicle soon and my oldest is just 3 years from driving.  So I really don't want another truck note knowing my camper notes are gonna be higher also.


When you say helper springs, are you referring to the overload springs? I honestly think my 2001 F250 may have 350 blocks on it. It seems to sit incredibly high to me. The bottom of my wheel wells are 39" off the ground, and it just looks like it's high in the rear. My cousin owned the truck before me. He was the second owner of the truck. The owner before him pulled a 5er with it. I think the first owner may have done the F350 blocks.

Again, I can only speak to the 99-03 trucks, but since both the F250 and F350 SRW have a Sterling axle in them, and the DRW has a Dana 80, I'd guess that you're correct in your thought that they were talking about the DRW. Not sure if it matters or not on spline numbers, but on the Dana 80, the carrier is different between a 3.73 and a 4.10 gear. You can't just gear swap them.


----------



## tiggerdad

Having no experience on pulling 5er as of yet I can't really comment on the adjustment.

Overload and helper springs, referring to same thing.

Funny thing is I gotta eat some crow here.  A few pages back I referred to the 1000# extra capacity of the 350 as not being very much.  However now that I'm looking at pin weights I realize that I was wrong.  1000# of capacity difference IS a big difference.

It takes a big man to admit he's wrong.

I am not a big man.

More like average size really.

Could really stand to lose some weight.

However, I'll admit I was wrong on that one.


----------



## Sluf

My 2007 Copper Canyon has a pin weight of around 1700 lbs. When unloaded, my F250 is anywhere from 39" to 39.5" at the center of the wheel wells, to the ground at the tire. With my 5er attached, it only drops to around 38". That's not a lot, but as I said, I think the first owner may have either installed the overloads, or possibly they were factory. It's a Lariat, so that may have triggered the springs, or it may have the towing package. Not real sure what that would have included.

I can't imagine anything you or I would pull with a F250 would have a high enough pin weight to warrant upgrading to an F350.


----------



## tiggerdad

Toy hauler I'm looking at has pin weight empty of about 1700#.  I'm just trying to be over cautious.  

1" drop when 5er hooked up is basically nothing.  Shows how much a difference they make.

I imagine the folks driving the DRW are laughing at me.  (Looking at you Jim, Randy).  Of course Chris and his Volvo are probably rolling on floor.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf,

Your truck probably did have the blocks swapped. I had an 02 F250 and was very active on the Powerstroke forum back then. Mine had the 2 in. block and I swapped it for the 4 in one from the F350. The only other factor that mechanically limited the F250 was the factory tires. If you added the max load on the factory tires, it came out to the GVWR exactly. The F350 had slightly bigger tires with a higher load rating.

And 1700 is a perfect weight for the F250. My old 5er had about a 1700 pin and it was a great match for the 250. The new 5er comes in over 3000 on the pin. I don't think my old F250 would have liked it very much.

As for moving the hitch height vs the pin box, both are pretty easy. I had to move the pin box on my old 5er when I bought my dually. Just some big bolts. A long torque wrench is all it took.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Sluf,
> 
> Your truck probably did have the blocks swapped. I had an 02 F250 and was very active on the Powerstroke forum back then. Mine had the 2 in. block and I swapped it for the 4 in one from the F350. The only other factor that mechanically limited the F250 was the factory tires. If you added the max load on the factory tires, it came out to the GVWR exactly. The F350 had slightly bigger tires with a higher load rating.
> 
> And 1700 is a perfect weight for the F250. My old 5er had about a 1700 pin and it was a great match for the 250. The new 5er comes in over 3000 on the pin. I don't think my old F250 would have liked it very much.
> 
> As for moving the hitch height vs the pin box, both are pretty easy. I had to move the pin box on my old 5er when I bought my dually. Just some big bolts. A long torque wrench is all it took.
> 
> j


3000lbs pin weight!?!? Wow! I would have never thought there would be a pin weight that big.

I measured the truck box I have today. It's a crossover box. It's about 5" tall above the rails, and 13" deep below the rails. I only have 10" to the top of the tank, and then there are vents and a gauge on top. I think what I'm going to do is cut about 5" off the bottom of the toolbox and then weld the bottom back in it.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> 3000lbs pin weight!?!? Wow! I would have never thought there would be a pin weight that big.
> 
> I measured the truck box I have today. It's a crossover box. It's about 5" tall above the rails, and 13" deep below the rails. I only have 10" to the top of the tank, and then there are vents and a gauge on top. I think what I'm going to do is cut about 5" off the bottom of the toolbox and then weld the bottom back in it.



Actually a 3K pin weight is not all that uncommon. I know the DRV line of fifth wheels, and other high end trailers are all at 3K or more for a pin weight. We will be shortening our pin box to increase our pin weight. I have to roll my set up over the scales one of these days. My hitch is rated to 32K and a pin weight of 8K, I don't think I need to worry too much.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Toy hauler I'm looking at has pin weight empty of about 1700#.  I'm just trying to be over cautious.
> 
> 1" drop when 5er hooked up is basically nothing.  Shows how much a difference they make.
> 
> I imagine the folks driving the DRW are laughing at me.  (Looking at you Jim, Randy).  Of course Chris and his Volvo are probably rolling on floor.



Drop ??? What is that ??


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> 3000lbs pin weight!?!? Wow! I would have never thought there would be a pin weight that.


Actually I think I'm around 3300. 42 ft and 4 slides, 2 of those 14 ft long. Trailer weighs about 15,000. 5er pin weight is generally 20-25% of the total. 

That is a lot of work on the tool box. It sounds like you already have the fuel tank and the box, but have you looked at the combo fuel/tool boxes? I have a 60 gallon aux tank, but I considered a combo, except I wanted it all below the bed rails so I could close my tonneau cover. 

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Actually I think I'm around 3300. 42 ft and 4 slides, 2 of those 14 ft long. Trailer weighs about 15,000. 5er pin weight is generally 20-25% of the total.
> 
> That is a lot of work on the tool box. It sounds like you already have the fuel tank and the box, but have you looked at the combo fuel/tool boxes? I have a 60 gallon aux tank, but I considered a combo, except I wanted it all below the bed rails so I could close my tonneau cover.
> 
> j


Yeah, I already have both. The tank was in the truck when I bought it, and my father-in-law gave me the toolbox. Cutting the toolbox down won't be a problem. I can just mark it and cut it with a circular saw. Then I can cut the remainder of the sides off of the bottom part on my table saw. That's the beauty of thin aluminum! I'll probably just take it into the shop at work and weld it back in. I may even consider cutting it down at the top so that it doesn't sit as high above the rails.


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> Drop ??? What is that ??



Drop.

You know?

What the pavement does when you drive through.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

tiggerdad said:


> Funny thing is I gotta eat some crow here.  A few pages back I referred to the 1000# extra capacity of the 350 as not being very much.  However now that I'm looking at pin weights I realize that I was wrong.  1000# of capacity difference IS a big difference.



Totally agreed - if you are talking payload, 1,000 pounds can make a HUGE difference.  At 20% pine weight, that equates to another 5,000 pounds in a fw, and at 12.5%, it would mean another 8k for a travel trailer.  Obviously the other ratings all come into play (especially rear axle with a fw), but payload can be the limiting factor in a lot situations, so that extra capacity can make a huge difference.


----------



## sirenia88

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Totally agreed - if you are talking payload, 1,000 pounds can make a HUGE difference.  At 20% pine weight, that equates to another 5,000 pounds in a fw, and at 12.5%, it would mean another 8k for a travel trailer.  Obviously the other ratings all come into play (especially rear axle with a fw), but payload can be the limiting factor in a lot situations, so that extra capacity can make a huge difference.



My 2011 F250 was GVW 9600 with payload of 2100 before people and any cargo/ items on board.  My 16 F350 is GVW 11,300 with a payload of 3950 before people and cargo.  Loaded out the 250 was generally around 7700 with me and a tank of fuel when I would pass though the scales.  My current 350 is the same if not a tick lighter since I didn't put the cargo box back in.  However, I have the same cargo under the rear seat and behind.  Same items in the door.   Recently, I scaled the new trailer and truck with a very skewed cargo load.  The truck was carrying 9650# and the trailer was carrying around 8000# (figure some weight transfer between the trailer to the truck thru WDH.) I was at 17,600 combined and just under my 19000 CGVW for my axle ratio which is 3.73.  Front axle on the truck is rated for 6,000 pounds and the rear is a 7,000 pound rating.  The axle ration was a 4.30 set it would have had a 22,000 rating.  If it was a diesel I go to 26 or 29K combined rating.


----------



## Sluf

So I'm making a few tow vehicle upgrades next week, as well as some preventive maintenance work. 

Let's talk about preventive maintenance. I bought the truck from my cousin. He's owned it since around 2010. He never had ANY trouble out of it. That's a double edged sword. That means all the parts are either original (2001), or they've been replaced, but 8+ years ago. It had 98k miles on it when he bought it. To my knowledge (and his), it still has the factory water pump in it, with 17 years and 213k miles on it. I went ahead and ordered a water pump, as well as upper and lower radiator hoses, new serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler. That should take care of everything on the engine, except maybe an alternator. I may go ahead and pick one up to throw in the truck box for the trip in February.

Now for the upgrades (the fun stuff). I ordered a tuner from DP Tuner with 5 tunes on it. Position #0 - NO Start, #1 - Stock, #2 - 60hp Economy, #3 - 80hp Economy  and #4 - 60hp Tow. I also ordered gauges with trans temp, boost, and EGT. Finally, to get rid of that hot exhaust, I ordered a 4" turbo back exhaust system. 

Tuesday is my next day off. Should be an interesting Monday and Tuesday! We're goi g camping next weekend locally. I can't wait to see how the tow tune performs.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> Now for the upgrades (the fun stuff). I ordered a tuner from DP Tuner with 5 tunes on it. Position #0 - NO Start, #1 - Stock, #2 - 60hp Economy, #3 - 80hp Economy  and #4 - 60hp Tow. I also ordered gauges with trans temp, boost, and EGT. Finally, to get rid of that hot exhaust, I ordered a 4" turbo back exhaust system.


You will love the tune and the exhaust. That is almost exactly what I did to my 02 F250. Dp Tuner 5 position switch too. (Still have it in my tool box). Mine was 40, 60, 80, 80 economy and 125. Never used anything except 80 econ when towing and 125 the rest of the time. A-pillar gauges, 4 in MBRP exhaust, cold air box, upgraded HPOP, turbo pedestal upgrade and high pressure oil line crossover.
It turned the truck into a towing beast. It made about the same HP and torque as my current truck (400/800), but weighed 1400 lbs less. I loved that truck until it got electrical gremlins at 192,000.

Two other things you should replace or keep a spare in the glove box. First, turbo intercooler boots. THESE are the ones I put on. They are made to take the extra boost the chip will make. The originals have to have been replaced, but the extra boost from the chip will strain what ever is on there. I blew mine off coming home from work one night. The 7.3 doesn't want to run without them. Oddly, I blew a similar pipe on my 2011 last month on the way to Disney.

Second, pick up a CPS (cam position sensor), or 3. The 7.3s are notorious for them failing. They are cheap. Like $19 in the link I gave. Also throw a 10mm wrench in with it. It is on the lower front of the engine and it takes 2 minutes to replace if you have the wrench. I changed 3 of them on the side of the road in the 6 years I had my truck.The CPS does nothing other than tell the computer the engine is turning so keep putting in fuel. When it fails (like driving down the highway... twice) the truck just shuts off. It will crank, but not start.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> You will love the tune and the exhaust. That is almost exactly what I did to my 02 F250. Dp Tuner 5 position switch too. (Still have it in my tool box). Mine was 40, 60, 80, 80 economy and 125. Never used anything except 80 econ when towing and 125 the rest of the time. A-pillar gauges, 4 in MBRP exhaust, cold air box, upgraded HPOP, turbo pedestal upgrade and high pressure oil line crossover.
> It turned the truck into a towing beast. It made about the same HP and torque as my current truck (400/800), but weighed 1400 lbs less. I loved that truck until it got electrical gremlins at 192,000.
> 
> Two other things you should replace or keep a spare in the glove box. First, turbo intercooler boots. THESE are the ones I put on. They are made to take the extra boost the chip will make. The originals have to have been replaced, but the extra boost from the chip will strain what ever is on there. I blew mine off coming home from work one night. The 7.3 doesn't want to run without them. Oddly, I blew a similar pipe on my 2011 last month on the way to Disney.
> 
> Second, pick up a CPS (cam position sensor), or 3. The 7.3s are notorious for them failing. They are cheap. Like $19 in the link I gave. Also throw a 10mm wrench in with it. It is on the lower front of the engine and it takes 2 minutes to replace if you have the wrench. I changed 3 of them on the side of the road in the 6 years I had my truck.The CPS does nothing other than tell the computer the engine is turning so keep putting in fuel. When it fails (like driving down the highway... twice) the truck just shuts off. It will crank, but not start.
> 
> j


Yep, definitely need to pick up a spare CPS. Had one go bad on me in my 2000 F350 I use to have. I followed that link and it shows a picture of the black CPS. It says it's a Ford part, but if I remember correctly, the black ones are actually an International part, and of better quality. The Ford part is blue I believe. As far as the turbo boots go, I would definitely like to replace them, but I'm gonna have to back-burner them for a little while. I've still got to fund my Disney trip! Lol. If my Tahoe sells anytime soon, I'll pay off my vacation, and go ahead and replace the boots as well.

Edit: After a little research, the gray CPS was the one that Ford replaced the black one with. The black one from Ford was much better than the gray one. The International CPS was blue, but now international and Ford are both using a dark bluish/purple part. The gray "recall CPS" part number ends with a "-B". The newest revision is "-C". I just put one in my cart on Amazon for $24. Can't beat that for peace of mind!


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> I followed that link and it shows a picture of the black CPS. It says it's a Ford part, but if I remember correctly, the black ones are actually an International part, and of better quality. The Ford part is blue I believe.


I bought mine from International (cheaper than Ford) or the internet. They were all black. HERE is a link to the Ford part and it is black. FWIW, neither OEM Ford nor International (from the dealer) or the cheap internet ones seemed to last any longer than an other. It's just a Hall effect sensor. Not sure why nobody could make one last.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> I bought mine from International (cheaper than Ford) or the internet. They were all black. HERE is a link to the Ford part and it is black. FWIW, neither OEM Ford nor International (from the dealer) or the cheap internet ones seemed to last any longer than an other. It's just a Hall effect sensor. Not sure why nobody could make one last.
> 
> j


A lot of the problems with them are related to electronic interferences. One of the big problems was a miss while using the windshield wipers on intermittent.


----------



## tripleb

We've had our Silverado 6.0L gasser for close to 2 years now. Pulling a 31' FW for the past 1-1/2 years, all of which has been in Florida. We recently returned from a 1120 mile round trip from the Panhandle of Florida to Gatlinburg, Tn and back. I've heard horror stories that the gasser just lacks the "pull" necessary to negotiate the mountains. Granted, we didn't go over any significant mountains but some grades that "tested" the gasser pulling the FW.

I'm happy to report that I was not in the least bit disappointed in it's performance. With the cruise control set at 63mph in tow haul mode, it was able to maintain the set speed without issue.

Here's a pic of our view from the back window of our FW. We were camped at Greenbrier Campground near Gatlinburg.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Well...I bit the bullet and bought this beauty today.  2018 Rockwood Premier, 1 slide (dinette) and 1 tip out Bay Window (sink and stove).  Weighs about 2600 pounds empty.  Looking forward to taking her to the fort next September


----------



## bama_ed

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...I bit the bullet and bought this beauty today.  2018 Rockwood Premier, 1 slide (dinette) and 1 tip out Bay Window (sink and stove).  Weighs about 2600 pounds empty.  Looking forward to taking her to the fort next September View attachment 359481 View attachment 359482



It's a beauty, cinderellagirl2280.

Welcome to the Fort Wilderness/pop-up camper NEXIS.  You have found the "sweet spot" combo.  

Bama Ed

PS - we had a Jayco pop-up dinette slideout with a front storage compartment for 10 years 2004-2014.  It served us well.


----------



## Sluf

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...I bit the bullet and bought this beauty today.  2018 Rockwood Premier, 1 slide (dinette) and 1 tip out Bay Window (sink and stove).  Weighs about 2600 pounds empty.  Looking forward to taking her to the fort next September View attachment 359481 View attachment 359482


Congratulations!


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

bama_ed said:


> It's a beauty, cinderellagirl2280.
> 
> Welcome to the Fort Wilderness/pop-up camper NEXIS.  You have found the "sweet spot" combo.
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - we had a Jayco pop-up dinette slideout with a front storage compartment for 10 years 2004-2014.  It served us well.



When I was down at the Fort in 2015, I rented a pop up from Fort Camper Rentals at the time and it had the slide dinette.  When it came to purchasing one, a slide was required if I was getting a pop up.  I had thought about an A-liner for a while but my concern was that I wouldn't have enough space if I was going to take my nieces and nephew with me.


----------



## bama_ed

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> When I was down at the Fort in 2015, I rented a pop up from Fort Camper Rentals at the time and it had the slide dinette.  When it came to purchasing one, a slide was required if I was getting a pop up.  I had thought about an A-liner for a while but my concern was that I wouldn't have enough space if I was going to take my nieces and nephew with me.



I get it.

An Aliner (interior) is at best a two-and-a-half person trailer.  As in:  two people (who pack lightly) on a regular weekend and a third person on the folded down dinette people sometimes (not all the time).  That's the "half" part.

So if you need space for a niece and nephew who are with you at the same time, you made the right choice.

Bama Ed

PS - especially if it's a cold and/or wet day, you will appreciate the extra space inside.


----------



## 4077

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...I bit the bullet and bought this beauty today.  2018 Rockwood Premier



Looks great! Congratulations! Even though I am happy with my TT, I still think how great it would be to have a PUP! Look forward to pictures out camping someday!


----------



## tiggerdad

4077 said:


> Looks great! Congratulations! Even though I am happy with my TT, I still think how great it would be to have a PUP! Look forward to pictures out camping someday!



I agree 100%


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

4077 said:


> Looks great! Congratulations! Even though I am happy with my TT, I still think how great it would be to have a PUP! Look forward to pictures out camping someday!





tiggerdad said:


> I agree 100%



Thanks!  I can't wait to get her out.  Unfortunately we are starting to hit the colder weather here in Ontario so she's away at the dealership for the winter while they add the A/C and Screen Room.  The sales guy I worked with went to the Fort last year for the first time, so when I told him the main reason for this trailer was so I could camp at the Fort every year he was all excited.  

Next task...find my TV.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Congrats Cinderellagirl!  Enjoy!


----------



## Sluf

Shew, haven't been able to get on in a little bit. I've been working 12 hr shifts pretty much constantly for about a month now. Only a few days off here and there. It's not gonna let up anytime soon either. I've been working on my truck and 5er with most of my spare time. I've had a few problems here and there. 

I recently got my tuner and a 4" straight turbo back exhaust, and got them installed 2 weeks ago. Then, weekend before last we pulled the camper to a local campground on Norris Lake for the weekend. No tuner though, since I didn't have gauges. I got the gauges in yesterday  and installed them today. I also had a problem with my transfer tank. The hose was leaking due to a hole in it, so I replaced it. For some reason, presumably a piece of trash or something, the fuel wouldn't transfer. After I got home from music practice at church, I gave it a little puff of compressed air. Whatever it was, it's gone now, the fuel is transferring, even with the cap on the transfer tank. It has a vent, but wouldn't transfer before, even with the cap off the truck tank.

I also winterized the 5er today. I guess the next time I'll pull it will be 110 days from now, when we head to the Fort. Oh, I repaired my awning mount on the 5er as well. Busy, but productive day!


----------



## tigger92662

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...I bit the bullet and bought this beauty today.


Congrats on the new trailer. Although we have a diesel RV, we've been helping a friend find a slide pup. It has been quite an interesting ordeal. They have it narrowed down to 2 models. 
Now comes the arm wrestling with the dealer. They like both, just waiting to see who will go the lowest. Fingers crossed. 
Can't wait for the trip report


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf,

It sounds like your truck is going to be a real towing brute. I had a similar problem with my auxiliary tank. I plumbed mine into the filler pipe. There was a one way check valve to stop the fuel running in when the main tank was full, but the check valve would stick mostly closed. It would let a trickle of fuel through, but not enough to keep up with the fuel being pulled from the tank. Especially at 8-9 mpg. Trying to flow a gallon every 7-8 minutes through a pin hole doesn't work too well.

I finally took the check valve out and gutted it so it is a straight through flow. I was worried about the main tank overflowing, but the fuel cap seals well and I haven't had any problems.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Sluf,
> 
> It sounds like your truck is going to be a real towing brute. I had a similar problem with my auxiliary tank. I plumbed mine into the filler pipe. There was a one way check valve to stop the fuel running in when the main tank was full, but the check valve would stick mostly closed. It would let a trickle of fuel through, but not enough to keep up with the fuel being pulled from the tank. Especially at 8-9 mpg. Trying to flow a gallon every 7-8 minutes through a pin hole doesn't work too well.
> 
> I finally took the check valve out and gutted it so it is a straight through flow. I was worried about the main tank overflowing, but the fuel cap seals well and I haven't had any problems.
> 
> j


I sure hope it's a brute! From the factory that 7.3L is a dog. They've got it de-tuned so badly. 

I've been buying "stuff" along the way with all the OT I'm working as well. Things like assorted fuse kits, a large wire terminal kit, a shrink tubing kit, etc. I replaced the batteries in my truck recently as well, since one of them gave out. I put a truck box in a little bit back to hold all of my tools and extra parts that will be making the trip with me. With the camper level, I have about 8-9 inches of clearance over the rails, so I was able to get away with a crossover box. I was at Walmart earlier picking up some stuff and saw ammo cans for $4.88. I had been wondering how to put my multi meter in the toolbox without having to worry about moisture. That was my "A-Ha" moment. So now I have an ammo can with my meter, strippers, and crimper in it, as well as my test jumpers and the assorted ends for my test leads. Hopefully I'll be ready for most anything that could happen on our trip!


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> From the factory that 7.3L is a dog. They've got it de-tuned so badly.


The 7.3 was built as a work horse. Nearly every school bus, trash truck and dump truck from the era had that engine, either from Ford or International. I loved mine, but it did need some "enhancements". 275 HP/520 lb/ft was good for the time, but not enough for towing bigger trailers. I also had a 2001 F250 and did nearly everything you are doing. FWIW 400/800 is about the best you can reliably do with a chip/exhaust/air box. To go higher, you need to drop in bigger injectors and that gets expensive.

I already mentioned the intercooler boots. The only problems I have from chipping mine up was beefing up the high pressure oil side of things. The fuel injectors work off oil pressure on the 7.3. Chipping the engine puts a lot more load on the high pressure oil side of things to increase injector cycles. Look into getting an oil rail crossover. On the stock motor, each head has it's own oil rail. The increased duty cycles put a lot of increased stress on the oil rails by opening and closing the injectors faster. The crossover helps balance out the pressure spikes as the injectors open and close. Here is a link. Even with this, I blew the stainless braided oil lines. Eventually the pressure spikes cracked the housing on my HPOP (high pressure oil pump), but I was pushing over 450 HP and 1000 lb/ft.  

I would probably still have that truck if it hadn't developed electrical gremlins. More HP/Tq than the newest trucks and 1,000 lbs lighter.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> The 7.3 was built as a work horse. Nearly every school bus, trash truck and dump truck from the era had that engine, either from Ford or International. I loved mine, but it did need some "enhancements". 275 HP/520 lb/ft was good for the time, but not enough for towing bigger trailers. I also had a 2001 F250 and did nearly everything you are doing. FWIW 400/800 is about the best you can reliably do with a chip/exhaust/air box. To go higher, you need to drop in bigger injectors and that gets expensive.
> 
> I already mentioned the intercooler boots. The only problems I have from chipping mine up was beefing up the high pressure oil side of things. The fuel injectors work off oil pressure on the 7.3. Chipping the engine puts a lot more load on the high pressure oil side of things to increase injector cycles. Look into getting an oil rail crossover. On the stock motor, each head has it's own oil rail. The increased duty cycles put a lot of increased stress on the oil rails by opening and closing the injectors faster. The crossover helps balance out the pressure spikes as the injectors open and close. Here is a link. Even with this, I blew the stainless braided oil lines. Eventually the pressure spikes cracked the housing on my HPOP (high pressure oil pump), but I was pushing over 450 HP and 1000 lb/ft.
> 
> I would probably still have that truck if it hadn't developed electrical gremlins. More HP/Tq than the newest trucks and 1,000 lbs lighter.
> 
> j


Oh, yeah. The 7.3 is without a doubt one of the best engines ever made. Ford just underpowered them so badly. I'm running an 80 hp economy tune from DP and it's a whole different truck. The automatic trucks are 250hp/505tq. I don't know what the torque gains are for that 80e tune, but the hp should obviously be around 330, with what I imagine would be another small/negligible gain from the 4" exhaust. I'm done with the performance upgrades at that. The 01-03 7.3s have PMRs as well, so 400hp (as you said) is pretty much the cap. My upgrades from here on out are going to be more about longevity, with the exception of a 6637 air filter. 

My next question to everyone I guess would be what I need to pack in the toolbox for the trip. I plan to pack some PEX fittings and crimp tool in case I have plumbing issues. Same with stuff to diagnose electrical problems. Jack, 4-way lug wrench, bulbs, jack stands, etc. What else?


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> Oh, yeah. The 7.3 is without a doubt one of the best engines ever made. I'm running an 80 hp economy tune from DP and it's a whole different truck. I don't know what the torque gains are for that 80e tune, but the hp should obviously be around 330, with what I imagine would be another small/negligible gain from the 4" exhaust.


Torque increases are typically double the HP on a diesel. I would think you were probably around a 150 lb/ft bump. That gets you up to about 650 or so, which is respectable unless you are pulling 15,000 lbs. I'm not sure how much power boost you will see with the exhaust, but your EGTs will be MUCH lower. That became the limiting factor on my truck. 

As for what to put in your tool box. You have the basics I carry. Extra GFCI outlet maybe. They seem to go bad at the worst times on these trailers. In racing, it always seemed to be, no matter how many spares you brought, the thing that broke was the only thing you didn't have an extra for.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Torque increases are typically double the HP on a diesel. I would think you were probably around a 150 lb/ft bump. That gets you up to about 650 or so, which is respectable unless you are pulling 15,000 lbs. I'm not sure how much power boost you will see with the exhaust, but your EGTs will be MUCH lower. That became the limiting factor on my truck.
> 
> As for what to put in your tool box. You have the basics I carry. Extra GFCI outlet maybe. They seem to go bad at the worst times on these trailers. In racing, it always seemed to be, no matter how many spares you brought, the thing that broke was the only thing you didn't have an extra for.
> 
> j


I'm suspicious of the boost gauge. It tops out at 17psi on the tune. My old truck built around 24psi. I tested the gauge before I put it in. If the regulator on my compressor is accurate, the gauge isn't. The gauge read 25psi with the compressor set to 30psi. I'm going to get a gauge at work to confirm. EGTs climb to around 1300 at WOT to 70mph. Cruising at highway speed is around 500-600.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> I'm suspicious of the boost gauge. It tops out at 17psi on the tune. EGTs climb to around 1300 at WOT to 70mph. Cruising at highway speed is around 500-600.


Where is your pyrometer? That makes a big difference on EGTs at the gauge. "Most" put the probe just downstream from the turbo. If yours is just past the turbo then your cruising EGTs are pretty normal. 1300 is getting too high. Ideally, you don't want to see more than 1200 or so. 1300 for brief stints is probably ok, but I wouldn't do it for miles up a grade. Getting close to 1400... lift! Keep an eye on the gauge. They can go up really fast, but they'll come down fast too when you stop pouring fuel.

Running at the +80 setting, I would expect your EGTs to stay in the 1000-1100 range. I'd get the exhaust on and see where you are. If you put the pyrometer ahead of the turbo (really hard to do on the 7.3 unless you drill and tap a manifold), I would move it into the bend just beyond the turbo.  

I think your boost gauge is off. A stock 7.3 should be in the mid-upper teens. 16-17 psi, if I remember right. Mine, chipped on the highest setting, would blow about 26-28psi depending on air temp and load.  

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Where is your pyrometer? That makes a big difference on EGTs at the gauge. "Most" put the probe just downstream from the turbo. If yours is just past the turbo then your cruising EGTs are pretty normal. 1300 is getting too high. Ideally, you don't want to see more than 1200 or so. 1300 for brief stints is probably ok, but I wouldn't do it for miles up a grade. Getting close to 1400... lift! Keep an eye on the gauge. They can go up really fast, but they'll come down fast too when you stop pouring fuel.
> 
> Running at the +80 setting, I would expect your EGTs to stay in the 1000-1100 range. I'd get the exhaust on and see where you are. If you put the pyrometer ahead of the turbo (really hard to do on the 7.3 unless you drill and tap a manifold), I would move it into the bend just beyond the turbo.
> 
> I think your boost gauge is off. A stock 7.3 should be in the mid-upper teens. 16-17 psi, if I remember right. Mine, chipped on the highest setting, would blow about 26-28psi depending on air temp and load.
> 
> j


Pyrometer is in the manifold, pre-turbo. Exhaust is already on.


----------



## Teamubr

i don't have real world experience with EGTs at the manifold. From what I've read, 100-200 degrees higher is typical. I'd think what you're seeing with the exhaust on is ok. Your 1300 would be 1100-1200 on mine and that's what I ran at +175.

Keep an eye on your mpg. I actually got better mileage running the 80tow setting than I did stock. It was great. More power and better economy.

j


----------



## Sluf

I'm definitely getting better mileage. Not sure exactly what it will be yet, but I can say it's better.


----------



## PaHunter

So the above photo's were taken of a  DRV fifth wheel, the area that holds the pin box. You can see the steel failures. The use of more substantial steel would increase the pin weight. 
Those towing fifth wheels, remember, inspect your trailer pin boxes regularly.


----------



## tiggerdad

Wow, that is impressive.  Makes me wonder if it had a sudden "slam" to cause that.  Interesting to say the least.

Not yours I hope.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> Wow, that is impressive.  Makes me wonder if it had a sudden "slam" to cause that.  Interesting to say the least.
> 
> Not yours I hope.



No it is not mine. It is from an engineer friend, and no it was not from just one incident. It was just from "normal" towing. Just amazing how things are being constructed and that was a high end DRV fifth wheel.


----------



## tiggerdad

For those of us who work on things...


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> For those of us who work on things...
> 
> View attachment 362924



How timely, I am out trying to get bolts off my truck. Have been hitting them with the impact to no avail, now to heat them up some. I am trying to get my fenders mounted. Not so easy.


----------



## Sluf

I have a question for everyone that I think I already know at least part of the answer to. The refrigerator in my 5er is acting flaky. I'm planning on replacing it with a Haier 9.8cu ft residential model. I also have a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter that I intend to mount in the front compartment and run to the refrigerator only. That way, when we leave for Disney in February, all the food/drinks will stay cold during the trip. I only have one battery at the moment, but planned to add a second one for the trip. The refrigerator itself runs at 2.5 amps per the manufacturer. The truck does charge the camper battery because of the emergency braking system while pulling the camper, right? Also, shouldn't the truck should keep up with the amp draw as well?


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> I have a question for everyone that I think I already know at least part of the answer to. The refrigerator in my 5er is acting flaky. I'm planning on replacing it with a Haier 9.8cu ft residential model. I also have a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter that I intend to mount in the front compartment and run to the refrigerator only. That way, when we leave for Disney in February, all the food/drinks will stay cold during the trip. I only have one battery at the moment, but planned to add a second one for the trip. The refrigerator itself runs at 2.5 amps per the manufacturer. The truck does charge the camper battery because of the emergency braking system while pulling the camper, right? Also, shouldn't the truck should keep up with the amp draw as well?



I know people in the Sandpiper forum I am on run the fridge on battery power, 18 cu ft residential and they say it takes 8 hours to kill the battery. We cool ours down load with foodstuff, and gallon  water jugs frozen ahead of time to keep everything cool. 
Two batteries and truck running should be alright. But then I am not an electrician, nor do I play one on tv.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> The truck does charge the camper battery because of the emergency braking system while pulling the camper, right? Also, shouldn't the truck should keep up with the amp draw as well?


The truck should have a 12 volt feed to the trailer that does go to the battery. I'd have to look, but I think the fuse for mine is a 20 amp. This sounds good, except... The 2.5 amps for the refrigerator is at 110-120 volts. The math works out to be 300 watts to run the 'frige. The inverter pulls 12 volts and steps it up to the 110-120 for the refrigerator. 300 watts at 12 volts is 25 amps. This shouldn't cause you to blow the truck fuse (the circuit is generally isolated to put a set amount to the trailer battery), but it means the truck probably won't keep up with the refrigerator draw. 

Long answer, but unless you are driving across country for several days, the battery will have enough reserve to run the refrigerator for your trip. 

Not sure what size 2nd battery you are going with, but when I dry camped at races, I had 2 Group 29 (pretty large) deep cycle batteries in my old camper. I could run everything in the trailer except the A/C or microwave, including a satellite receiver and TV running on an inverter, for 3-4 days. 

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> The truck should have a 12 volt feed to the trailer that does go to the battery. I'd have to look, but I think the fuse for mine is a 20 amp. This sounds good, except... The 2.5 amps for the refrigerator is at 110-120 volts. The math works out to be 300 watts to run the 'frige. The inverter pulls 12 volts and steps it up to the 110-120 for the refrigerator. 300 watts at 12 volts is 25 amps. This shouldn't cause you to blow the truck fuse (the circuit is generally isolated to put a set amount to the trailer battery), but it means the truck probably won't keep up with the refrigerator draw.
> 
> Long answer, but unless you are driving across country for several days, the battery will have enough reserve to run the refrigerator for your trip.
> 
> Not sure what size 2nd battery you are going with, but when I dry camped at races, I had 2 Group 29 (pretty large) deep cycle batteries in my old camper. I could run everything in the trailer except the A/C or microwave, including a satellite receiver and TV running on an inverter, for 3-4 days.
> 
> j


My 2nd battery is the one I recently pulled from my truck. It's an 875cca/1000ca battery. The camper battery is a group 24 Interstate deep cycle 690mca battery.

The plan is to leave Knoxville at approximately 3pm on Feb 17th and head south. We're going to drive until I get tired, pull over, and sleep for the night. If we start out with a fridge that is loaded and cold before we leave, the fridge should only come on every so often, so the batteries should be charging in between times. The major concern will be the 5-8 hour stop to sleep, which shouldn't be much of an issue either, I wouldn't think anyway. I need to find out if the truck supplies power with the key off, too. I wouldn't want to run into a situation where I drained the truck batteries.

If it comes down to it, I may just go with the residential fridge and go grocery shopping once we get there. Reviews on the fridge says it gets cold in about an hour. It would just be nice to have everything in the camper and cold upon arrival.


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> My 2nd battery is the one I recently pulled from my truck. It's an 875cca/1000ca battery. The camper battery is a group 24 Interstate deep cycle 690mca battery.
> 
> The plan is to leave Knoxville at approximately 3pm on Feb 17th and head south. We're going to drive until I get tired, pull over, and sleep for the night. If we start out with a fridge that is loaded and cold before we leave, the fridge should only come on every so often, so the batteries should be charging in between times. The major concern will be the 5-8 hour stop to sleep, which shouldn't be much of an issue either, I wouldn't think anyway. I need to find out if the truck supplies power with the key off, too. I wouldn't want to run into a situation where I drained the truck batteries.
> 
> If it comes down to it, I may just go with the residential fridge and go grocery shopping once we get there. Reviews on the fridge says it gets cold in about an hour. It would just be nice to have everything in the camper and cold upon arrival.



The truck could supply power while off, you could always just disconnect your 7 way connector, just make a note to reconnect before you leave in the morning.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> The truck could supply power while off, you could always just disconnect your 7 way connector, just make a note to reconnect before you leave in the morning.


I just took my meter outside and checked it. Key off, no power. Key on, power on. I'm safe there, it seems.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> I just took my meter outside and checked it. Key off, no power. Key on, power on. I'm safe there, it seems.


You beat me to it. Not sure about Dodge or Chevy, but I know Fords only power the plug with Key ON.

Your refrigerator should be fine. Even if it kills the battery while you're sleeping (you should have plenty of battery for 8 hours), unless you have the doors open, the refrigerator should stay cold for quite awhile.

j


----------



## Sluf

So I'm 90 days out now, and it appears we may have a small change of plans. It would certainly seem that we're going to have to drive two vehicles now. My oldest son got married in August  and my daughter-in-law LOVES everything Disney. Since I've been working so much overtime recently, I suggested that we take them with us to the Fort. My son was supposed to find out today if his new job (about a month) would let him off to go. He felt confident they would  since it's his best friend's dad that he works for. Fingers crossed!


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> View attachment 362841 View attachment 362842
> 
> View attachment 362843
> 
> View attachment 362844
> View attachment 362845
> View attachment 362846
> View attachment 362847
> 
> So the above photo's were taken of a  DRV fifth wheel, the area that holds the pin box. You can see the steel failures. The use of more substantial steel would increase the pin weight.
> Those towing fifth wheels, remember, inspect your trailer pin boxes regularly.


On the same subject of pin boxes, etc, I have a question about my hitch/pin box setup. I recently lowered my hitch to its lowest setting to level my 5er. Prior to and since lowering it, the truck "bucked" forward and backward from time to time after hitting a bump/dip in the road. The airbags helped considerably, but didn't take it all the way out. Would I be better served to raise the pin box up the same amount that I lowered the hitch and then raise the hitch back up? It seems to me that it would take some of the torque and flex out of the pin box by getting it closer to the cross brace its mounted to on the structural part of the camper.


----------



## tripleb

Sluf, I don't think it will make any difference. My pin box is as high as it will go and hitch as low as it will go … still have the bucking you have mentioned. I think it's the nature of the beast, so to speak. I also have a MorRyde cushioned pin box. I have considered replacing the hitch with a cushioned hitch system to help eliminate the bucking but those hitches are expensive and heavy.


----------



## Sluf

tripleb said:


> Sluf, I don't think it will make any difference. My pin box is as high as it will go and hitch as low as it will go … still have the bucking you have mentioned. I think it's the nature of the beast, so to speak. I also have a MorRyde cushioned pin box. I have considered replacing the hitch with a cushioned hitch system to help eliminate the bucking but those hitches are expensive and heavy.


OK. Sounds like it probably doesn't matter then. I think I may go ahead and and swap the settings anyway, just so I can see my hitch better. After I put the toolbox in, I can't see the hitch anymore. I may not gain anything as far as the bucking goes, but I'll hopefully be able to at least see the hitch again.


----------



## tripleb

Yeah, know what you mean. I can't see my hitch either but after about a year and a half, I've "learned" where it is


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> Sluf, I don't think it will make any difference. My pin box is as high as it will go and hitch as low as it will go … still have the bucking you have mentioned. I think it's the nature of the beast, so to speak. I also have a MorRyde cushioned pin box. I have considered replacing the hitch with a cushioned hitch system to help eliminate the bucking but those hitches are expensive and heavy.



Sluf, if you reverse it, it may help some. I will look to see if I have the weight balance information here on my computer.  Although "chucking" is more common with fifth wheel towing. An air hitch, or urethane hitch would help, but you are talking a 2-3K investment, and yes they are heavy. Anderson, ET, and a host of others will help some, but not completely eliminate chucking.


----------



## Teamubr

I never had this problem (I've read of many that have) until I bought my current truck and towed my old 5er. My prior trucks were short beds with a shorter wheelbase. My old 5er had almost the the same pin to axle length as my dually's wheel base. It seemed because they were the same distance from pin to axle, it set up a weird harmonic that caused the truck and trailer to oscillate. Think of holding a long board in the middle and lift it up and down. The ends of the board will go up and down opposite of the middle. My new 5er is much longer and I've never had the issue with it. The race trailers never did it either, but they were even longer than my 5er.

Raising the hitch may help some with changing instant center or roll center. These are things we set on the race car suspensions to make the car handle differently. I'm not an engineer, but it gets pretty complex fast. The easiest way to explain it is raising the hitch will change the angle of weigh transfer from the pin into the truck and may have an impact. For anyone that is interested, here is a graphic that shows it on a race car rear suspension. We can dramatically control the up and down motion on the rear axle by manipulating this. Your hitch height should do the same.


----------



## tripleb

I'm no engineer either but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express a couple of times  One would tend to think that the weight relationship between the FW and TV can contribute to the "bucking" that Sluf is referring to. A FW is almost always heavier than the TV, except in PaHunter's case. With this weight difference the FW is somewhat "man-handling" the TV attributing to the "bucking". With regards to the pin height vs the hitch height I can't wrap my head around any appreciable difference in handling either way. Unless the FW is extremely "nose" high. There again, PaHunter can disregard any of this, LOL.


----------



## Sluf

I haven't changed anything yet. No time off work. Today was day 7 of 12 in a row, 12hr shifts. I'll have 2 days off (Saturday and Sunday) and then I'll work another 8 days in a row. That'll pretty much wrap up my overtime for the rest of the year. The good thing is, Christmas is paid for, and as of next Thursday, I'll pay off the balance on my campsite and pay for seven 6-day tickets. All of that funded with overtime from the past 6 weeks.

I had a little scare Thursday with my truck while on my way to Thanksgiving dinner after work. I'm ashamed to say it, but this is the first vehicle I have EVER bought that I didn't change the oil and replace every filter as soon as I got it. Well, with the tune making my 7.3L hungry for air, it sucked the filter into the outlet of the air box lid! Shame on me. Anyway, I have a new filter now, and I'm going to upgrade to a 6637 filter very soon. That won't happen again.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> Well, with the tune making my 7.3L hungry for air, it sucked the filter into the outlet of the air box lid!


  

I forgot about that little bit of fun. Had the same thing happened to mine. It is amazing how hard these diesels can suck air.

j


----------



## Sluf

Well, I think my truck is finally ready for the trip in February. Almost... I still need to do an oil change and have my tires installed. The tires were delivered from the North Pole yesterday by UPS Claus. I also took my truck to a local diesel shop yesterday and had my new water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, and belt tensioner put on. The new serpentine belt that I ordered was the wrong one, so I'll have to get another one before I leave to have in the tool box.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Well...fingers crossed, if all works out over the weekend, I'll have a new TV.  I went with a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk edition.  I test drove one yesterday and one was supposed to come into the dealership today.  I'm hoping they call me to say I can pick it up by Monday!


----------



## PaHunter

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...fingers crossed, if all works out over the weekend, I'll have a new TV.  I went with a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk edition.  I test drove one yesterday and one was supposed to come into the dealership today.  I'm hoping they call me to say I can pick it up by Monday!



congratulations on the new TV, may it give you many years of trouble free camping fun.


----------



## bama_ed

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...fingers crossed, if all works out over the weekend, I'll have a new TV.  I went with a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk edition.  I test drove one yesterday and one was supposed to come into the dealership today.  I'm hoping they call me to say I can pick it up by Monday!



Congrats!

I'm starting to consider future TV, cinderellagirl2280, for my popup.  My ol' 2005 Suburban is still hanging in there but who knows for how long.  How much does that Trailhawk tow in the configuration that you're getting and what other vehicles did you consider along with it before you pulled the trigger on this one?

I looked back two pages and saw where you had posted about the popup you bought.  Since not many of us have popups on the Camping Board, I wonder if I can pick your brain.

Bama Ed


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

bama_ed said:


> Congrats!
> 
> I'm starting to consider future TV, cinderellagirl2280, for my popup.  My ol' 2005 Suburban is still hanging in there but who knows for how long.  How much does that Trailhawk tow in the configuration that you're getting and what other vehicles did you consider along with it before you pulled the trigger on this one?
> 
> I looked back two pages and saw where you had posted about the popup you bought.  Since not many of us have popups on the Camping Board, I wonder if I can pick your brain.
> 
> Bama Ed



With a factory tow package the Trailhawk can tow up to 4500 pounds


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Main reason I'm getting this is because of the tow rating and I love Jeeps.  Even the Wranglers can only tow up to 2500 pounds now.  There's very few SUV's that I could get that would tow my trailer.


----------



## bama_ed

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Main reason I'm getting this is because of the tow rating and I love Jeeps.  Even the Wranglers can only tow up to 2500 pounds now.  There's very few SUV's that I could get that would tow my trailer.



I get that.

I am looking at the mid-range TV and there aren't very many.  Like you, with a popup, I don't need a TV/truck like vehicle that can haul 7k-10k pounds up Pike's Peak at 70 mph.  Those that are under consideration are the Honda Pilots, Hyundai Sante Fe, etc.  Guess I can add your Jeep to the watch list.  Mostly crossovers with the tow package or wheel drive config.

One thing I would miss in a smaller TV versus my Suburban I have now is the instant reflex to say, "I can do that".  As in, "Ed, can you haul 6-7 people somewhere?" or "Is the back end of your truck big enough to carry all that stuff?"?  Now I can say "yes" right away.  

But for now I'm trying to stretch my Suburban as far as I can (currently 227k miles).

Bama Ed


----------



## sirenia88

***Disclaimer****  Not bashing anyone nor planning to.  Thank you

The only thing I will say is most modern SUVs and CUVs are not really meant to tow.  @cinderellagirl2280  is on the right track trying to find something with a good towing rating.  I am actually shocked something as expensive as the Trailhawk (as I understand the trailhawk is a premium level) didn't have a higher tow rating cause IIRC that should have a hot rod engine and a tow package available. So the tow rating should be much higher than 4500 pounds. My thoughts would be if you decide to move up a notch on the RV front, the vehicle you spent a good chuck of coin on might be the limiting factor.   I would make sure it had a max tow package and options installed.  SUVs are not cheap. 

I loved my F250 but I also knew it was going to be close on weight when we bought our next trailer. When it was truck shopping time, I knew what I wanted and found a 350 since the weight ratings were going to be much higher for anything we were going to buy.  I knew both trucks would pull the same trailer or any same load for that matter.  It's just nicer to say I got the capacity for this.

@bama_ed  Have you thought about getting a mid size pickup?  It's like a mullet business up front and party in the back.  Most of them got good tow ratings and good power plants for those tow ratings.   Pricing is in line with many SUVs and to boot have better utility than an S Utility V.  Just putting it out there.


----------



## 2goofycampers

We are on I-10 almost to I-295 first time towing with the new 2500 diesel Ram. We love it! We are getting 10.5 MPH.


----------



## sirenia88

2goofycampers said:


> We are on I-10 almost to I-295 first time towing with the new 2500 diesel Ram. We love it! We are getting 10.5 MPH.



Take it back to the dealer if the truck can only get to 10.5 MPH.  Sounds like the truck has gone into limp mode! LOL


----------



## bama_ed

sirenia88 said:


> @bama_ed  Have you thought about getting a mid size pickup?  It's like a mullet business up front and party in the back.  Most of them got good tow ratings and good power plants for those tow ratings.   Pricing is in line with many SUVs and to boot have better utility than an S Utility V.  Just putting it out there.



Well Alan, no I haven't and no I won't.  The main thing is I like having and using the enclosed back end of my tow vehicle versus an empty truck bed.  Yeah I know I could throw a bed cover/hard shell over it but that's not what I want.  Which is why I bought the Suburban (used) in the first place many years ago and not a Chevy Silverado.  That is why I'm looking at enclosed smaller suv's or crossovers.  Based on my lifestyle, it fits us.

I'm not in any danger of upgrading to a bigger trailer, either.  I like my small popup as it's closer to "real camping".  I have nearly a year of tent (nylon, canvas) camping under my belt (as in HUNDREDS of nights) and I want that closeness to nature (in my head anyway) but like being up off the ground, protected, and light/small/agile.  Our DIS group at our Gulf DIS Meet laughs at me because I have this teeny tiny trailer among their big, beautiful, LONG campers and RV's.  That's just me.

Bama Ed


----------



## PaHunter

bama_ed said:


> Well Alan, no I haven't and no I won't.  The main thing is I like having and using the enclosed back end of my tow vehicle versus an empty truck bed.  Yeah I know I could throw a bed cover/hard shell over it but that's not what I want.  Which is why I bought the Suburban (used) in the first place many years ago and not a Chevy Silverado.  That is why I'm looking at enclosed smaller suv's or crossovers.  Based on my lifestyle, it fits us.
> 
> I'm not in any danger of upgrading to a bigger trailer, either.  I like my small popup as it's closer to "real camping".  I have nearly a year of tent (nylon, canvas) camping under my belt (as in HUNDREDS of nights) and I want that closeness to nature (in my head anyway) but like being up off the ground, protected, and light/small/agile.  Our DIS group at our Gulf DIS Meet laughs at me because I have this teeny tiny trailer among their big, beautiful, LONG campers and RV's.  That's just me.
> 
> Bama Ed



Ed, 

No one was laughing at your tiny trailer, until the wind picked up to 10mph and it almost blew away.  

Ours is the other extreme, a small house, but our nephews travel with us sometimes and as I always tell people, it needs to work for you.


----------



## bama_ed

PaHunter said:


> Ed,
> 
> No one was laughing at your tiny trailer, until the wind picked up to 10mph and it almost blew away.



< sigh > See what I mean, Alan? 

PS - hey, Chris, the forecast was for 60 mph winds in less than 12 hours and DW was psycho-scared.  So I chose the wise husband thing to do and did what she said-because I like being married.

PPS - the next smallest trailer in our DIS Meet is/was tiggerdad's bumper pull Jayco at 38 ft but he has since sold it and is looking at 5ers (bigger I am sure).  This is the kind of thing I am up against.


----------



## PaHunter

bama_ed said:


> < sigh > See what I mean, Alan?
> 
> PS - hey, Chris, the forecast was for 60 mph winds in less than 12 hours and DW was psycho-scared.  So I chose the wise husband thing to do and did what she said-because I like being married.
> 
> PPS - the next smallest trailer in our DIS Meet is/was tiggerdad's bumper pull Jayco at 38 ft but he has since sold it and is looking at 5ers (bigger I am sure).  This is the kind of thing I am up against.



You and many others made the right choice for that weekend. Had we still had our one ton we probably would have left early also. Bigger tow vehicle I don't need to worry so much about the tail wagging the dog.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

bama_ed said:


> PPS - the next smallest trailer in our DIS Meet is/was tiggerdad's bumper pull Jayco at 38 ft but he has since sold it and is looking at 5ers (bigger I am sure).  This is the kind of thing I am up against.



Wow - even I'd be short in that company, and we are at 35'.  Although I will say that I would have no interest in going any longer on my bumper.  If we shifted to a FW, maybe, but not until I can ditch our Suburban and move to a pick-up.


----------



## sirenia88

@bama_ed I get where you are going with the vehicle situation.  Unfortunately, I do not see most modern compact/mid size C/SUV class vehicles as being a towing platform.  From what I have seen are more car like components with a higher road clearance level.  Personally, I have driven the Ford Edge.  I have drove a few and even had a rental model for work for awhile.  I enjoy the interior design and functionally. I just cannot see spending 35 or 40 K on a new one new or even 25K used for a descent low mile late model.  I have looked at the Hyundai Santa Fe Sport in the same class.  Nice vehicle but some of the interior I was not overly impressed with.  Same goes for the Chevy Equinox. The sales guy at Chevy dealer I went to to check one out was pretty laid back for a salesman.  He went over everything about the truck but he was not into drinking the kool aid.  He went over the items that were lacking too.  I felt he was actually a pretty fair salesman.  I also looked at a Hyundai Tuscon since the interior was nearly identical as my wife's Sonata. My aunt owns one.  Drove OK but DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission) take time to get use too. The best way to describe them a hybrid manual auto trans.  It feels like both at the same time. 

I guess it is all relative.  The most expensive vehicle I have ever purchased my F350. I don't mind the payments since they are low.  If I had to pay a much more higher car payment each month I probably would not have purchased it in the first place. Which is funny since I almost bought a leftover 2017 F350 when my truck was totaled.  I think my wife being more on the fence but when I sat down, I was not thrilled at the larger vehicle payment.  Same with all our vehicles.  I have a certain threshold. My wife's car is the most expensive but a fully loaded Sonata Hybrid.  She loved the car at first drive and it went from there.  The price and the financing were on point so it fell in to our laps sorta speak.

One last note, funny story about your pop up "flying" away.  If 2 or 3 of those behemoths could have blocked the wind for you! LOL  Heck PA's new long hauler could stop that wind by itself. LOL


----------



## bama_ed

Alan, if worst comes to worst, I could check the "old" Suburban used market again.  I bought my 2005 Suburban in 2010 (5 yrs old) with 85k miles at a dealer.  Playing around with Autotrader a few months ago, I came across another 2005 Suburban, one owner, 97k miles at a dealer.  Thing is, now it's a 13yo vehicle and was priced $2k more than what I had paid for my 5yo vehicle in 2010!  <lol>

I would be okay with that path too except the neighborhood I moved to last year is older with a somewhat narrow street and a quite narrow driveway (houses close on both sides).  Oh I DO spot my popup into the garage at the end of the drive but it is tight getting it back there but I can do it every time no problem with a little work.  So I try to park on the street along the curb as much as I can.  Thus my preference for a smaller everyday vehicle that does some occasional towing.  But I could manage with another Suburban as I am now.

My hope is, however, I don't have to cross this road for a while yet.

ED


----------



## Teamubr

sirenia88 said:


> If 2 or 3 of those behemoths could have blocked the wind for you! LOL  Heck PA's new long hauler could stop that wind by itself. LOL


Behemoth?!

I prefer gigantor. Besides, mine isn't that big. Ed stood right next to it as I backed into our site at GSP last year. His eyes stayed mostly in his head. 

As for a new TV, definitely look at the used Suburban market, but for your Aliner, I would certainly consider a mid-size SUV. We picked up a 3 year old Explorer from CarMax last year. It has the tow package, including a nice hidden Class 4/5 hitch, that's rated to 5,000 lbs. I wouldn't hesitate pulling a popup, Aliner or small TT with it. And you know my tow history.

As for CarMax, we had a fantastic experience with them. We have recommended them to 2 friends that also bought (and traded) from them and had the same great experience. That is primarily where we are looking for a replacement Miata for Ian.

j


----------



## bama_ed

Yep, Jim, that's the range I'm thinking.  Don't need a full size pickup and the towing capacity it would provide.

_< but if I ever bought a Ford someday, you know Michael would never let me hear the end of it ... >  _

ED


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> _< but if I ever bought a Ford someday, you know Michael would never let me hear the end of it ... >  _



When you buy that Ford, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Kind of like me rooting for Alabama. 

Actually, everyone I know that has had a Suburban, swears by them. If I were in the large SUV segment, that's probably what I would look for.

j


----------



## jaredjohn4

I've been test driving a few trail hawks, looking to get one for my son as he nears the end of college.  Nice vehicle, but I'm not sure how far you want to tow with it.  I ran a Chevy 1500 conversion van (high top) around the country pulling a Coleman Bayside (3500 pounds) and it was ok, not overkill.  We bought a new 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the diesel engine.  I hooked onto my Bayside one day and drug it about 50 miles for nothing better to do.  I was really impressed with it.  Never really had the need to tow the Bayside far with it, 6 months later I picked up a Ram 2500 diesel and another 6 months I got my 38ft Cougar fifth wheel.  The Chevy was a good tow vehicle, but you had to work at it with the Bayside.  It has a lot of wind noise inside, but has a lot of room.  It still runs good at 160k miles.  The Jeep is still amazing with the fuel mileage and power at 87k.  But the Ram 2500 now with 75k is one heck of a tow vehicle.


----------



## Marshel

The 2005-2012 Nissan Pathfinders and all the Xterras are truck based SUVs with box frames (shared with the Frontier) and have decent towing ability with the 4.0 litre V6.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Teamubr said:


> Actually, everyone I know that has had a Suburban, swears by them. If I were in the large SUV segment, that's probably what I would look for.
> 
> j



I just wish they wouldn't have abandoned the heavier duty version.  They started reducing the capability in '07 and have now completely abandoned the market, which is why we are babying ours along.  We bought a new family SUV 2 years ago - instead of being able to buy something that could serve as a daily driver for the family AND a tow vehicle, we continue to maintain a third vehicle because we can't replace the Suburban.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Well...the trailhawk sold sadly .  But I did get a Jeep Cherokee North with a V6 and 4x4.  Its a 2015 but had only 36,000 KM on it so I couldn't pass it up!  Its rated to tow up to 4500 lbs and that's all I need as my trailer is 2500 dry but I'm guessing with gear it'll be around 3500.


----------



## PaHunter

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Well...the trailhawk sold sadly .  But I did get a Jeep Cherokee North with a V6 and 4x4.  Its a 2015 but had only 36,000 KM on it so I couldn't pass it up!  Its rated to tow up to 4500 lbs and that's all I need as my trailer is 2500 dry but I'm guessing with gear it'll be around 3500.



Sounds like a nice tow vehicle. Happy Camping in the New Year.


----------



## tiggerdad

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Its a 2015 but had only 36,000 KM on it so I couldn't pass it up!



....calculating KM to miles.....

Oh yeah!  That ain't too bad!


----------



## Sluf

I've got a question about my auxiliary fuel tank. I thought I had my leak fixed, but I apparently didn't. I put fuel in it for the first time Sunday, and after driving home, I realized that I was pouring fuel onto the driveway. Apparently the 1.5" barbed pipe in the filler hose with the barbed 90 for the aux tank fill line, either has a hole worn in it, or the hose itself has a hole worn in it. The aluminum barbed fitting in the filler hose is sitting directly on top of the frame.

In order to replace the hose/fitting, I'll have to drop the fuel tank. From there, I have a few options. Given the aluminum "T" is the problem, I can do away with it and just replace the filler hose from the neck to the tank. If I do that, can I plumb my aux tank into the vent hose that comes up the the top of the filler neck? Or would it be better to cut my new filler hose outside of the frame, so it can be gotten to easier if trouble ever arises again.

The vent hose on the truck doesn't vent to the atmosphere, it's still inside the closed system.

Thanks


----------



## tiggerdad

Personally I'd replace the filler line and then T into it and leave breather line alone.  If I'm following you correctly.  This is usually the suggestion of most manufacture when installing auxiliary tanks.

When I first used my auxiliary tank I thought I had a leak, turned out it was the breather line coming out of auxiliary tank that was letting fuel splash out.  I ended up attaching a piece of 3/4" fuel line to it and when I fill auxiliary up I put the line into a container, like an empty DEF jug.


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> Personally I'd replace the filler line and then T into it and leave breather line alone.  If I'm following you correctly.  This is usually the suggestion of most manufacture when installing auxiliary tanks.
> 
> When I first used my auxiliary tank I thought I had a leak, turned out it was the breather line coming out of auxiliary tank that was letting fuel splash out.  I ended up attaching a piece of 3/4" fuel line to it and when I fill auxiliary up I put the line into a container, like an empty DEF jug.




Mine is definitely not the vent on the auxiliary tank. Whoever installed my tank (it was in when my cousin bought the truck about 8 yrs ago) installed the T on top of the frame. It has to have a hole rubbed into the hose itself, between the T and the tank, or in the T itself. Why they didn't install it outside of the tank, I have no idea. The filler neck MAY have needed to be trimmed, but I doubt it. 

I went ahead and made a new 1-1/2" aluminum barbed T at work on Tuesday. I welded a bung onto the side of it and drilled and tapped it for a hose barb fitting for the hose coming from the auxiliary tank. In a few weeks I'll have all the fuel out of the truck tank. As soon as it's down to empty I'm taking it to a buddy's house and throwing it on a lift. I'll drop the tank and replace the fill line and the vent line. If it's just the hose that has a hole in it, I'll put the T back in it that's in it now. If not, I'll have that one I made ready to go.

Either way, I'm going back in the fill line, rather than the vent line.


----------



## Teamubr

Rodney,

Here is a link to the tank and coupler I have on my F350. (The coupler is at the bottom- picture is below) It splices into the filler for the tank. There is a short piece of rubber hose that connects the filler opening to the tank. You cut that and splice in this part. My team mate had the exact same setup. I had a problem with mine with the check valve that is built in to prevent overfill. The valve would stick mostly shut and wouldn't let fuel drain in from the auxiliary tank. I took the valve apart and removed the check float and all is well. The gas cap prevents fuel from overflowing. The check valve is in the larger metal piece that goes in-line with the filler hose, not the stopcock that goes in the aux tank.






j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Rodney,
> 
> Here is a link to the tank and coupler I have on my F350. (The coupler is at the bottom- picture is below) It splices into the filler for the tank. There is a short piece of rubber hose that connects the filler opening to the tank. You cut that and splice in this part. My team mate had the exact same setup. I had a problem with mine with the check valve that is built in to prevent overfill. The valve would stick mostly shut and wouldn't let fuel drain in from the auxiliary tank. I took the valve apart and removed the check float and all is well. The gas cap prevents fuel from overflowing. The check valve is in the larger metal piece that goes in-line with the filler hose, not the stopcock that goes in the aux tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j


That looks like it's probably the same setup as mine. Either the barbed aluminum T, or the hose between the T and the tank has a hole rubbed into it from the frame. It's just too dadgum tight in there to see where it's coming from. As soon as I get this tank of fuel ran out, I'll drop the truck tank and repair everything. That'll give me a chance to do the harpoon mod on the tank, as well as replace the pre filters on the pickup tube.


----------



## tiggerdad

What Jim posted is essentially what mine is as well.  Mine already had a pump when I bought it, otherwise I'd probably of just gravity fed it.


----------



## Sluf

I just finished repairing my leak (hopefully) a few hours ago. I bought a new filler hose and dropped the tank. My auxiliary tank was nearly full, so I just started transferring fuel. Keeping an eye on it over the last few hours. The gauge now shows above full, and I can see there is still fuel in the auxiliary tank. No fuel in the filler neck yet when I pull the cap off. If the check valve works, I'm not even sure if I'll be able to see it or not. No sign of any dripping fuel so far though! Yay!


----------



## tiggerdad

Hopefully that holds out well for you.


----------



## Teamubr

Sluf said:


> No fuel in the filler neck yet when I pull the cap off. If the check valve works, I'm not even sure if I'll be able to see it or not. No sign of any dripping fuel so far though! Yay!


Congrats! Sounds like you got it. When my check valve worked right, I could never see fuel in the filler neck even when everything was full, so you are probably good. 

j


----------



## snowmedic

Ok, so I have a older 1997 MH, probably not pre-wired for a camera system.  I am looking to add a wireless rearview camera so I can keep an eye on our car while going down the road.  Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations on one that perhaps they installed or where looking at online.  I did a google search of them and there are a lot.  I am thinking maybe the three camera system, rearview, and the two side view cameras.  
Thanks, Vince


----------



## PaHunter

snowmedic said:


> Ok, so I have a older 1997 MH, probably not pre-wired for a camera system.  I am looking to add a wireless rearview camera so I can keep an eye on our car while going down the road.  Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations on one that perhaps they installed or where looking at online.  I did a google search of them and there are a lot.  I am thinking maybe the three camera system, rearview, and the two side view cameras.
> Thanks, Vince



https://www.rearviewsafety.com/?rvs-redirect

The link above is the place I was going to use for purchasing our camera's. We will have to go with a wired system as the wireless systems do not transmit the 70 feet well.  RVH Lifestyles just became a dealer for them, but are unfortunately located in Kansas.  I was looking to mount a rearview, one to each passthru storage door and one to monitor from the back of the truck.

CES recently had a company called Veleos i believe it was that was in to the camera game with multiple camera's that basically make whatever you are towing disappear to the tower. Allowing one better vision in traffic, in theory.


----------



## Makeminemusic

First post in this forum.  Lot's of great advice here    We have a 2004 Duramax and a 2010 36' 5'er.  Have not made any trips to the Fort yet, but thinking I will soon.  Question:  Does anyone store there camper close to WDW and pick it up when they go down to WDW?


----------



## PaHunter

Makeminemusic said:


> First post in this forum.  Lot's of great advice here    We have a 2004 Duramax and a 2010 36' 5'er.  Have not made any trips to the Fort yet, but thinking I will soon.  Question:  Does anyone store there camper close to WDW and pick it up when they go down to WDW?



I know one of our Disboarders wanted to know this as they hail from Canada. There are places down there to store them is my understanding. Just a matter of what you are looking for and cost.


----------



## Makeminemusic

PaHunter said:


> I know one of our Disboarders wanted to know this as they hail from Canada. There are places down there to store them is my understanding. Just a matter of what you are looking for and cost.



Yeah, we would be coming from Upper Wisconsin.  I am inclined to store it close and then I have a great excuse to take more trips, lol


----------



## 2goofycampers

Makeminemusic said:


> First post in this forum.  Lot's of great advice here    We have a 2004 Duramax and a 2010 36' 5'er.  Have not made any trips to the Fort yet, but thinking I will soon.  Question:  Does anyone store there camper close to WDW and pick it up when they go down to WDW?


Welcome to the camping forum. If you type in the word "storage" to the search quite a few threads on this subject pop up. I know Thousand Trails in Clermont have RV storage.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Makeminemusic said:


> Yeah, we would be coming from Upper Wisconsin.  I am inclined to store it close and then I have a great excuse to take more trips, lol



We are from SE Wisconsin, and I did some looking into this a while back.  There are storage areas in the region, but I will warn you that they are notably more expensive than we pay in this area.  One provider I found charges $125/m for outdoor storage on a paved lot.  One option I was looking for was transport (allowing us to fly or bring a more fuel efficient vehicle down for a winter trip), and that was a per-trip cost of $200 or $250 (don't remember for sure).  For us, the overall cost just wasn't justifiable, but I could see it working for people with other needs/opportunities.


----------



## Makeminemusic

mickeyfan0805 said:


> We are from SE Wisconsin, and I did some looking into this a while back.  There are storage areas in the region, but I will warn you that they are notably more expensive than we pay in this area.  One provider I found charges $125/m for outdoor storage on a paved lot.  One option I was looking for was transport (allowing us to fly or bring a more fuel efficient vehicle down for a winter trip), and that was a per-trip cost of $200 or $250 (don't remember for sure).  For us, the overall cost just wasn't justifiable, but I could see it working for people with other needs/opportunities.



Hi Fan, 
I did some searching around Ocala as it would be on main highway and somewhat close to WDW.  Outdoor, paved,  secure storage  for my 36ft 5th wheel would be about 70/mo with military discount.  90 minutes from WDW.  Good to find another DIS fan close by   We moved from Seattle area a few years back.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Makeminemusic said:


> Hi Fan,
> I did some searching around Ocala as it would be on main highway and somewhat close to WDW.  Outdoor, paved,  secure storage  for my 36ft 5th wheel would be about 70/mo with military discount.  90 minutes from WDW.  Good to find another DIS fan close by   We moved from Seattle area a few years back.



Welcome to WI.  I grew up here but moved away for college and years thereafter.  Just moved back about 4 years ago.  Hope you are feeling settled in the area!


----------



## tiggerdad

I can't believe how light this thing is!

 

 

 

Actually leaves more room in bed than the Companion Hitch did.


----------



## tripleb

Nice tiggerdad … reminds me that I need to remove my Reese 16K Titan hitch/slider from my truck tomorrow … eating 2 boxes of Wheaties in the morning, strapping on a back support belt, and putting on some real tight underwear to prepare for the lift.


----------



## tiggerdad

I had to use my tractor front end loader to load and unload the Companion hitch I bought initially.  I knew right then I had to change.


----------



## PaHunter

tiggerdad said:


> I had to use my tractor front end loader to load and unload the Companion hitch I bought initially.  I knew right then I had to change.


When we had our 3500 we had the Companion hitch, the base stayed in pretty much all the time, I would just remove the head. Figured if someone really wanted the couple hundred pounds of weight, they could have it. That and it was so tight it needed to be hammered in and out.


----------



## Sluf

Well, I'm getting closer! 3 days until we leave. I'm off work tomorrow and Friday, but I have to work Saturday 7am-7pm. I'm trying to figure out any last second stuff. My camper stays across the street at my mom's house since I can't get it into my driveway. It's plugged in, so the fridge is working, etc. I'm gonna pull my compressor over there tomorrow and air up all the tires to 80psi. Running the truck up to 80psi as well, but probably not until Saturday evening, right before I hook the camper up. I wired up a 1200W inverter to take with me in case I need 110V along the way. Oil and fuel filter are a week old in the truck, coolant and all fluids are good. Taking the wife's car to have the oil changed Friday. I should have everything packed by Friday evening  ready to go.

What are some last minute things I need to remember? Obviously going to fuel up and such on my way home from work Saturday evening. We're leaving Sunday morning at around 6am.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Sluf said:


> What are some last minute things I need to remember?


Travel snacks and drinks.


----------



## tiggerdad

Double check your items in the camper, always be thinking "Will that be able to move around while I'm going down the road?".  If you think it might, pack some towels, blankets, etc around it.  In my fridge, I'd fill in any empty space with water bottles.  This way the mayo, milk, butter, etc. on one shelf couldn't bounce around.


----------



## Sluf

tiggerdad said:


> Double check your items in the camper, always be thinking "Will that be able to move around while I'm going down the road?".  If you think it might, pack some towels, blankets, etc around it.  In my fridge, I'd fill in any empty space with water bottles.  This way the mayo, milk, butter, etc. on one shelf couldn't bounce around.


Since I replaced my 7cu ft Dometic with a 10cu ft Insignia residential fridge, I bought a pack of extension rods. I'm going to double up on them. I'm also ditching the 110v heater we keep in there since the weather is going to be AWESOME.

The hardest thing I've found so far is finding places to pack clothes for 7 people!


----------



## Sjm9911

Non towing related , but truck related. Has anyone sceen leaf springs thay are peiced together? I get there stacked, and held by a housing. But has anyone seen one of the bars that make up a span in two pieces? This is for heavy trucks. But any information is good. I had no idea where to ask. Its not towing or disney related but would help me out ! Ty.


----------



## Teamubr

Sjm9911 said:


> Has anyone seen leaf springs they are pieced together? Has anyone seen one of the bars that make up a span in two pieces?


I have used "leaf spring helpers" before on an older car. Here's a pic of what I had. They worked fairly well. And they are cheap. 










j


----------



## tiggerdad

I used the airbags on mine, Firestone instead of strengthening up the springs.  The helper springs would be cheaper route I'm sure, but the airbags are rated at 5000# but the cost was around $300 plus labor.


----------



## PaHunter

This is so awesome, can't wait. I bet it will eventually be on all trailers.


----------



## PaHunter

https://wsbt.com/news/local/forest-...rBFUnx86Ulzld8Z9L2YX1PblmFhwuinLz7HD24Xnqp_Ls

Well that is probably going to cause a problem with production. Forest River plant hit by a big fire today.


----------



## Sjm9911

Not good, considering they were allready having problems https://www.abc57.com/news/Forest-R...kers-blame-drug-use-and-poor-safety-practices


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> https://wsbt.com/news/local/forest-...rBFUnx86Ulzld8Z9L2YX1PblmFhwuinLz7HD24Xnqp_Ls
> 
> Well that is probably going to cause a problem with production. Forest River plant hit by a big fire today.




Hmm, fire sale!


----------



## mickeyfan0805

PaHunter said:


> This is so awesome, can't wait. I bet it will eventually be on all trailers.



That's fascinating, I'm actually a little surprised to see a manufacturer going there.  While I'd personally love to see it on a lot of trailers (not just haulers), a broad spectrum roll-out of this type of tech would draw attention to how tight some of these trailer really are on weights.  My sense has always been that the last thing most manufacturers want is for people to understand weights and capacities.  I know this is only half the equation, but a broader understanding of weights would have a notable impact on the industry, and not necessarily one that would be good for their bottom line!


----------



## Teamubr

mickeyfan0805 said:


> My sense has always been that the last thing most manufacturers want is for people to understand weights and capacities.


I think it's the dealers that don't want people to understand the weight dynamics. I suspect you are right though. This will probably appear on the toy haulers and other trailers that have a pretty big CCC. Anything that is tight on limits out of the factory will probably never see this.

j


----------



## PaHunter

mickeyfan0805 said:


> That's fascinating, I'm actually a little surprised to see a manufacturer going there.  While I'd personally love to see it on a lot of trailers (not just haulers), a broad spectrum roll-out of this type of tech would draw attention to how tight some of these trailer really are on weights.  My sense has always been that the last thing most manufacturers want is for people to understand weights and capacities.  I know this is only half the equation, but a broader understanding of weights would have a notable impact on the industry, and not necessarily one that would be good for their bottom line!





Teamubr said:


> I think it's the dealers that don't want people to understand the weight dynamics. I suspect you are right though. This will probably appear on the toy haulers and other trailers that have a pretty big CCC. Anything that is tight on limits out of the factory will probably never see this.
> 
> j



I think the manufacturers realize how many people are towing outside their limits. Being that the industry is pretty much left to self regulation, it may be a necessary evil. As insurance hits go up, from people having trailers overturn, or being involved in accidents, the spotlight grows. 
I think the industries would rather people be towing safely to avoid government regulation that would really impact the industry and their bottom line. What if RV's were no longer exempt from a CDL type inspection. People would not be happy at all. I think this will make it's way to almost all trailers, it will clear the manufacturers of any liability if you knowingly overload your camper......
There was a trailer last year that had a 333 pound cargo capacity, was a really bad design.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

PaHunter said:


> I think the manufacturers realize how many people are towing outside their limits. Being that the industry is pretty much left to self regulation, it may be a necessary evil. As insurance hits go up, from people having trailers overturn, or being involved in accidents, the spotlight grows.
> I think the industries would rather people be towing safely to avoid government regulation that would really impact the industry and their bottom line.



Interesting theory - you may be right.  I tend to have a bit more of a jaded view, thinking that corporations tend to bury their head in the sand as long as possible, but you may be right that this could serve as a 'due diligence' defense against future litigation.  I'd love to have this on every trailer I buy in the future, and would love to see it on all of them (just to try to be a barrier against the many who so drastically overload with no understanding), but we will see.




PaHunter said:


> There was a trailer last year that had a 333 pound cargo capacity, was a really bad design.



I have cited such trailers many times in the 'buy a trailer that has a GVWR that fits your truck and you're all good' arguments.  I'm amazed at the trailers that roll off the lot with barely enough capacity to manage a tank of water, much less anything else.  And, sadly, it is often those very trailers that have 6 bikes, 2 kayaks, and the family den strapped to the roof as it heads down the road! ​


----------



## Sjm9911

Lol, thats why i got a pop up. I might be upgrading after this year......


----------



## sirenia88

You can thank the 1/2 towable concept from the past 15 or so years. Also you have to factor in the dealers themselves. When the family and I were looking for our first trailer back in 2011, the sales rep was pretty much like your truck has plenty of power to move this trailer mentality. We had a 1999 F150 XLT Super Cab short bed with a 5.4 V8.  There was no discussion beyond that regarding payload rating.  As I found out I had no clue about payload even though it's right in the owner manual for the vehicle.  Any vehicle for that matter.  My real payload on that run was just 900 pounds with w/6500# GVW There was no let's hold up here and let's make sure you are going to be able to properly tow with the vehicle.  He just said let's go look in the lot and see what I have out there for you folks. Of course we picked out this behemoth 30 footer at 6,000 pounds wet in the end.  We got cornered into paying full sticker on the trailer and of course an extended warranty that might have been used for toilet paper.  Our trailer didn't have a high load carrying capacity either.  Once filled with water, it barely had enough weight for the other items like kitchen items, the outdoor stuff like the BBQ, and the like.  I can tell you there were a number of times we were overloaded by at least 500 pounds especially on the disney trips in that trailer.  It was really a valuable learning experience.   Which we did make some really awesome memories in that first trailer though.

Fast forward to 2018,  the wife and I are thinking about replacing the trailer.  Going on our first experiences, we had a much different perspective into the buying process. Based on the original F150, I knew after the first trip to Disney with the camper, a Super Duty or much newer late model F150 would have been a better choice of tow vehicle.  Back then in 2012/13, my wife and I knew we would eventually get into a bigger truck and that would lead into a bigger trailer.  We had a 250 which was perfect for that trailer.  Never had a problem towing that or anything else for that matter.  We had plenty of payload on the truck with that trailer as well.  At the beginning of 2018, my 250 was involved in an accident.  Which sucked as the truck was paid off as well as the trailer.   When it came to getting another vehicle I always said I had to do it again, it would be a 350 just for the ratings.  The 250 would have moved my current trailer perfectly without a doubt.  However when it came the weights, would have been very close or over!  The 350 was just a better horse for the next cart.

Come July 2018, the wife was doing something in the trailer and something went a rye.  I was outside fixing yet another thing on the trailer.  So I went in to what the matter was.  The wife got annoyed putting something away and then she asked if I had noticed the bathroom getting worse.  I said I did and that's why I have been using the bathrooms at the campground more often.  The trailer became more of the emergency bathroom.  Plus it was getting tight overall in the trailer.  At this point I made the suggest of looking for another trailer.   We had gone to RV shows a number of times in the past.  Nothing hit our tastes for a new unit.   However, we knew we had plenty of truck for whatever we were going to buy.  My only real requests were to keep it under 10K and around 35 feet.  Also have proper weight capacity which this one does.

My wife and I headed to a dealership that had a particular brand of trailers we were looking at.  Grand Design RV was one of the brands we were interested in.  The dealership had plenty of selection to choose from.    My wife did request a quick on line visit first before driving out there for the day to make sure they would have something to look at.  We got to the dealership and met up with a sales rep.  The first thing he did was sit down with us at a table.  He asked us if just basic stuff like if we are current owners and how long.  How did you find out about us.  Why are looking at this particular brand.  Do we have the PROPER tow vehicle for what we might looking at today.  He said if we were not sure of our ratings we would help to determine them if needed.  I did chime in I had a 350 and I had done my research prior to looking at trailers.  I gave him what my best estimate of what real payload was.  My current truck sits at 3900# before me and everything else in it.  He asked if we were open to other configurations like a 5 er.  I said we bought a truck that could handle a 5er if we found one that matched our needs.  Our sales rep came out and said, I want to make sure your future purchase is going to keep within the capacities of the truck.  We do not want to sell you something too big or too heavy.  Different approach from the last go around.

The sales rep then asked harder questions like what are well looking for in a trailer.   He brought out the literature of the models would be looking at.  Offered us a pen and paper if we needed to make notes.  Simply put, it was a much different buying experience.  Of course trade in questions and financing were part of the experience.  We told him we were looking at this point. We told him up front, it was a tire kicking event.  We were figuring to buy within the next 6 months.  We wanted to have a better more in detailed experience with the trailers than what you would get at a show. He said that would not be a problem as they have buyers that do come back later in the year to make the sale.  He did not push for a sale that day.  It was not like it was a problem we were just going to look at the trailers.  He made assurances that he knew the product well and if he didn't know the answers he would get them for us.  Which was a nice change.  What my wife and I did not expect was to find our next trailer so quickly.  My wife and I are fortunate in the fact we were able to make a purchase on such short notice.  Remember the original plan was get through the current season.  However the approach was so low pressure and smooth, we felt comfortable.  There was no pushiness or lack of interest since we had a plan in mind.   When it came time to working up the numbers, everyone won.

Sorry for the slight tangent to the whole point to this reply.  We had 2 different dealership experiences.  One was who cares.  As long as I get a sale, so what your vehicle isn't really rated for a particular model.  This dealership actually offered GD RVs but we decided not to return to them due to our experience.  My wife and I didn't care for the experience we received either.  The last experience was excellent in my book.  The little touches and lack of pushiness is what helped making a deal happen.  The most important point was the fact in my eyes, the sales rep took the time to talk about the truck.  There wasn't a battle of the brands/engines/ cab size.  It was "hey I want to make sure you are going to have the proper truck to for the trailer you want."  If you do not have the proper truck, are you willing to adjust your expectations or look at other models or brands?  The sales rep attitude was we just want you to have a safe RVing experience.

 Oh what is this 1/2 ton talk all about.  Well I know a couple of people with 9K bumper pull  toy haulers towing them with 150 or 1500 depending on the brand.  My current trailer is 9500 being towed by a 350.  My weights are well south on all fronts.  CGWVR, drive and steering axles.  The last weight check my drive axle weight was off due to a loaded pickup bed.  Guess what? It was still under.  Quite a few of the trailer accident videos I have seen all seem to have the common the trailer is too big for the vehicle theme to it.  Many times it's a 1/2 ton or large SUV unable to manage the trailer when something go a rye.  To be honest the dealer is probably more complicit than the manufacturer in some cases.  I have seen at a few shows not just local but national/ regional have flyers on the trailer showing it could be towed by this vehicle or that platform.  I look at it saying it technically can but should it?  At first I thought i was a good idea but now I think otherwise.  I could see a family vacation ruined by " The flyer said I had the right vehicle for this"  Now were are in a ditch since my driving experience with trailers was limited, or the vehicle was not enough to handle the trailer properly.  Unless you are PA hunter.  Then all bets are off LOL

Thor has a interesting idea there with this device to help the RV owner.  I could see it being used as a device to head off future or potential issues with load balancing and the like.  In a world that is more and more litigation, you have to wonder.  I wonder if there is some scales being brought out after some of these trailer accidents.  I wonder if more states are going to want to push for CDL exempt licensing for RV owners with weights over a certain number.   Maybe there should be a great push into the dealer networks to get a handle on this before we see more government involved.  RVing should be fun not having to deal with E logs and weight stations or worse.


----------



## Sjm9911

I hate to say, some dealerships just sell to anyone. And that seams to be the norm( or at least the people that put it up on blogs) . Im glad you found a reputable dealer. As i only have a pop up, im on a pop up fourm. So many come on the sight that got sold stuff they cant tow. And the owners are pretty much oblivious,  as it has a tow hitch, i can tow it. And no one gets how to load a trailer,  or how it can impact the weights, sway, towing etc. So it may be about accedents, but i think its more about the lawsuits resulting from not so reputable sellers. Lets not get started about breaks and chains.........


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## 2goofycampers

I think it's the responsibility of the buyer to know what their tow vehicle can tow safely. We don't trust our safety to any business or sales person.


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## Teamubr

Sirenia88,

It sounds like you found the ideal dealer the 2nd time around. You should share the name of the dealership. Many of us will go outside our local area to work with a "great" dealer.

I have towed "things" (campers- TT, 5ers; utility trailers; boats; racecar trailers) all over the country for decades. Sometimes I was very near (or likely over) max weights as well as way below 50% of capacity. Like cars, driving something at 5/10ths is considerably different from 10/10ths (which most people rarely ever hit intentionally). Everything responds differently as you approach limits. If you don't know how they will respond, you are more likely to not react appropriately and suddenly you are at 12/10ths. I think this is more of a contributing factor to many RV crashes. Too fast for conditions, following too close, too aggressive of steering input and then being surprised the "rig" doesn't respond the same as your Camry.

Overloading is certainly a contributor, but failure to recognize how something will behave is a bigger factor.

j


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## tiggerdad

2goofycampers said:


> I think it's the responsibility of the buyer to know what their tow vehicle can tow safely. We don't trust our safety to any business or sales person.


*This*


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## PaHunter

2goofycampers said:


> I think it's the responsibility of the buyer to know what their tow vehicle can tow safely. We don't trust our safety to any business or sales person.



One would like to think it was the responsibility of the buyer, but I know of a FB group that would make you shake your head.


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## 2goofycampers

PaHunter said:


> One would like to think it was the responsibility of the buyer, but I know of a FB group that would make you shake your head.


FB? If we want to know anything we will ask you guys!!!


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## sirenia88

Sjm9911 said:


> I hate to say, some dealerships just sell to anyone. And that seams to be the norm( or at least the people that put it up on blogs) . Im glad you found a reputable dealer. As i only have a pop up, im on a pop up fourm. So many come on the sight that got sold stuff they cant tow. And the owners are pretty much oblivious,  as it has a tow hitch, i can tow it. And no one gets how to load a trailer,  or how it can impact the weights, sway, towing etc. So it may be about accedents, but i think its more about the lawsuits resulting from not so reputable sellers. Lets not get started about breaks and chains.........


 
Coming from experience this is very true.  You will see at shows as well.  You have Brand X it will handle it without a problem.  




2goofycampers said:


> I think it's the responsibility of the buyer to know what their tow vehicle can tow safely. We don't trust our safety to any business or sales person.



I will disagree with you to a point.  This is a two way street.  The buyer should be knowledgeable of the product, the vehicle, and characteristics of towing.  But the dealership should take some of the responsibility in making sure the customer is properly equipped.  Slapping the hood of the vehicle and saying this beast is ready for towing is not it.  Not everyone is going to know anything about RVing especially new people entering the market.  A friend of mine bought a Class C Toy Hauler from Lazy Days Tampa FL.  She got a driving course with the camper as part of her prep and delivery package.  She and her companion loved it and thought is great.  He tows a Outback Toy hauler which they are now leaving a camp site while they take the MH around the East Coast.  




Teamubr said:


> Sirenia88,
> 
> It sounds like you found the ideal dealer the 2nd time around. You should share the name of the dealership. Many of us will go outside our local area to work with a "great" dealer.
> 
> I have towed "things" (campers- TT, 5ers; utility trailers; boats; racecar trailers) all over the country for decades. Sometimes I was very near (or likely over) max weights as well as way below 50% of capacity. Like cars, driving something at 5/10ths is considerably different from 10/10ths (which most people rarely ever hit intentionally). Everything responds differently as you approach limits. If you don't know how they will respond, you are more likely to not react appropriately and suddenly you are at 12/10ths. I think this is more of a contributing factor to many RV crashes. To fast for conditions, following too close, too aggressive of steering input and then being surprised the "rig" doesn't respond the same as your Camry.
> 
> Overloading is certainly a contributor, but failure to recognize how something will behave is a bigger factor.
> 
> j



Tom Schaeffer RV out of Shoemakersville, PA.  Some people didn't like the place others like me did.  A number of people on a Ford Truck forum from the PA/ NJ area use them for RV purchases.  When researching our trailer purchase, the campground we regularly stay at had a number of GD owners most of them purchasing from Tom's RV.  All had extremely positive responses.  One fellow I spoke with purchased 2 trailers from them and would not hesitate to recommend them.  I had some service work done by them on an early on issue we had with the trailer.  They got it fixed while we waited and even accommodated our pup with water and treats! 

As for towing, we have a 12 foot single axle for work.  That has definitely an interesting towing characteristic.  My current trailer definitely feels different than my previous trailer.  I find the new one easier to tow even though it's larger and heavier.  Go figure.


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## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> One would like to think it was the responsibility of the buyer, but I know of a FB group that would make you shake your head.



Anything FB makes me shake my head


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## Teamubr

sirenia88 said:


> Tom Schaeffer RV out of Shoemakersville, PA. They got it fixed while we waited and even accommodated our pup with water and treats!


I'll have to bookmark them. PA is close enough if it is the right rig. It sounds like they have discovered that exceptional customer service goes farther than closing the deal at any cost. 

We looked at Grand Design before buying our current trailer 3 years ago. I really liked the build quality. Unfortunately I was looking for something a little more than the Reflections, but not quite as much as the Solitude. I really liked the Solitude, but couldn't justify the price. If I was going full time, I'd strongly consider it though.

j


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## sirenia88

J,



Teamubr said:


> I'll have to bookmark them. PA is close enough if it is the right rig. It sounds like they have discovered that exceptional customer service goes farther than closing the deal at any cost.
> 
> We looked at Grand Design before buying our current trailer 3 years ago. I really liked the build quality. Unfortunately I was looking for something a little more than the Reflections, but not quite as much as the Solitude. I really liked the Solitude, but couldn't justify the price. If I was going full time, I'd strongly consider it though.
> 
> j



As long winded as that was, that was short story.  Quite frankly, it could have been the sales rep's approach.  The only time we even entered an office it was for 2 things. Finalize our number for the sale. The second time was signing off the paperwork.  It was 10 minutes and 2 bottles of water.  My wife and I scanned all the documents before signing to verify info was correct and for boiler plate type stuff.  The only way you want to spend more time in the office it would be bring a lawyer in for an official review.

I can DM you later with a total in depth experience.  I will do the good, the bad, the indifferent.  However at the end of the day I would not have a problem directing someone to go there to look and possibility purchase a RV there.


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## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> I'll have to bookmark them. PA is close enough if it is the right rig. It sounds like they have discovered that exceptional customer service goes farther than closing the deal at any cost.
> 
> We looked at Grand Design before buying our current trailer 3 years ago. I really liked the build quality. Unfortunately I was looking for something a little more than the Reflections, but not quite as much as the Solitude. I really liked the Solitude, but couldn't justify the price. If I was going full time, I'd strongly consider it though.
> 
> j



Jim, 
They are close enough to us, if you ever need to, we have a place for you and DW to stay.


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## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Jim,
> They are close enough to us, if you ever need to, we have a place for you and DW to stay.


Thanks Chris!

We still like this new trailer and we have only had it for 3 years. Had the last one for 13. It would be nice to swap the truck and trailer for a nice DP MH, but I think a condo on the Gulf will probably happen instead and I'll keep the current setup to go to the Fort. 

j


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## jeffrey1966

So This is my 2004 F350 Super Duty with the infamous 6.0L Powerstroke. 258,000 miles. It is all original and hasn't had the EGR delete work done or the head gasket and studs. I have a really good Diesel guy keeping his eye on things as I bring it in for regular maintenance. As you can see by the picture I take good care of it and am not towing something that really puts too much strain on the engine. I'm thinking of doing a few things to the engine including EGR delete.  I'm wondering if there are any other 6.0L owners that like their truck or am I the only one? Am I the only one who hasn't deleted the EGR on their engine? I hear a lot of negative things about this truck from others that have owned one.


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## PaHunter

Nice setup.


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## Teamubr

We briefly had a 6.0 for the race team. The EGR can be a big deal, but that engine was more notorious for the bad injectors. We started replacing 2 and then 2 more. It wasn't long before we sold it and bought a 2011 with the new 6.7. I still have my 2011 and love it. 

The good news about the 6.0 was if you made it past 80,000 miles or so and didn't have the injectors replaced, you were probably good. Your's sounds like it was one of the good ones. I know quite a few people that still have 6.0s and they are fine. Like anything with 250,000+ miles, how it has been care for and a bit of luck are the biggest factors in how much longer it will stay reliable.

j


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## jeffrey1966

PaHunter said:


> Nice setup.


Thanks Chris. It's worked out really well for us as it's all paid for. I hate loans.


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## jeffrey1966

Teamubr said:


> We briefly had a 6.0 for the race team. The EGR can be a big deal, but that engine was more notorious for the bad injectors. We started replacing 2 and then 2 more. It wasn't long before we sold it and bought a 2011 with the new 6.7. I still have my 2011 and love it.
> 
> The good news about the 6.0 was if you made it past 80,000 miles or so and didn't have the injectors replaced, you were probably good. Your's sounds like it was one of the good ones. I know quite a few people that still have 6.0s and they are fine. Like anything with 250,000+ miles, how it has been care for and a bit of luck are the biggest factors in how much longer it will stay reliable.
> 
> j


I have been adding Hot Shots Diesel Extreme to the fuel and it seems to be doing the job keeping the injectors clean. At least I think that's the reason.


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## Teamubr

That can't hurt, but I think the 6.0 injector problems were more design/production related and not as much dirt. The ones we had to replace wouldn't fire (spray), but I know others that had the opposite problem. They dumped so much fuel into the cylinder, it hydraulic'd the block and cracked it. 

j


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## tiggerdad

jeffrey1966 said:


> So This is my 2004 F350 Super Duty with the infamous 6.0L Powerstroke. 258,000 miles. It is all original and hasn't had the EGR delete work done or the head gasket and studs. I have a really good Diesel guy keeping his eye on things as I bring it in for regular maintenance. As you can see by the picture I take good care of it and am not towing something that really puts too much strain on the engine. I'm thinking of doing a few things to the engine including EGR delete.  I'm wondering if there are any other 6.0L owners that like their truck or am I the only one? Am I the only one who hasn't deleted the EGR on their engine? I hear a lot of negative things about this truck from others that have owned one.View attachment 388834



Here is the advice given to me:
The engine is built to run the way it came from the factory.  The EGR delete, this is coming form two different diesel mechanics, one of them very well known in the Atlanta area, is not advised.  Think about it like this.  You got 258,000 with the EGR, really, I don't see a reason to do it now.  That right there is proof to me running with EGR is perfectly fine, and really don't see the savings if you consider the EGR cost.

Just my opinion.  I have a 2012 6.7 and when my EGR valve stopped up at 100,000 I had it replaced.  I could of done the delete, but in MS you can't sell or trade in if the EGR is deleted, so I would of had to put it all back in place to see or trade, which if I would of put the old EGR back in then the sensor would of registered bad and I would of lost the money on trade anyway.

It's a big debate, but I never could justify the cost of the EGR delete along with labor considering the other losses I would of had in the long run.


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## Teamubr

Some of you may remember my tire blowout on the way back from Disney/GSP last September. It took out the trailer brake wiring and 2 LP gas lines (Why did they put a gas "T" next to the wheels?) I switched from load range E tires to load range G. After some research, I bought Sailun S637 trailer tires. They were half the price of the Goodyear G614 and had great reviews on the RV forums and the 'nets. Load range G tires have a max inflation of 110 psi, up from 80 psi on an E tire. I inflated the Sailuns up to 110 and went out several times last Fall. The trailer handled much better in corners, but rode very rough. From racing, I knew tire inflation pressure should be tailored to the weight on the tire, but my prior experience with Goodyear when I asked for an inflation recommendation was just "Inflate to the maximum on the sidewall". 

On a chance, I emailed customer service at Sailun and got a great response. Not only did they explain why I shouldn't run 110 psi, but they included pictures and an inflation grid for the weight on each tire. Turns out I should be running about 75 psi. I lowered the tire pressures for my trip last weekend and the trailer still handles well, but rode much better. The tires still had considerably less squat compared to the E at maximum inflation. Benefits of a 14 ply vs 10 ply tire. 

Below is the email and inflation grid from Sailun customer service. The inflations are for the Sailun S637, but would translate to most G range tires. 



*Alan Eagleson <AEagleson@sailuntire.com>*





Mar 8, 2019, 9:33 AM








to James, Info, me

Jim, thank you for your inquiry to Sailun Tire.  The S637 ST tire is engineered to operate at a range of air pressures to handle a range of loads.  The maximum is just that, the maximum.  What that means is you cannot put more air pressure than 110 psi in to carry more load than 4080 (ST235/80R16). 

Benefits of the heavy duty tire.

1)            The tire is all-steel belt construction compared to poly-steel of standard ST tires.  This is similar to a commercial truck tire.

2)            The tire is rated for 75 mph compared to 60-65 mph for most of the standard poly-steel ST tires.

3)            Very reliable.  We sell in excess of 100,000 of these tires in the U.S. each year with less than 10 warranty claims for the past 5 years. 

In your case, the loaded weight of (12,000 lbs) equates to 3,000 lbs./tire.  I have attached the load and inflation chart for the two sizes.  When you reference the chart, you could go as low as 65 psi.  If you use 110 psi, you actually have the tires over-inflated. 

I’ll give you the full story on load and inflation for 5th wheel trailers.  From my experience in dealing with many 5th wheel owners, your axles are likely rated for 7,000 lbs. which equates to 3500 lbs. per tire.  This equates to approximately 80 psi per tire maximum.  Your OE tires were poly-steel construction and 10 ply rated.  This is because the OE manufacturer tends to put the tire on that just meets the required load spec.  The other issue may be the psi rating on your wheels.  They may only be rated for 80 psi.  It should be stamped somewhere on the wheel.  If you can’t find it, contact the trailer manufacturer. 

If you put enough load on to require more than 80 psi in your tires, your axles will then be over-loaded and you could have multiple problems.  Since you run the tires at 110 psi, they are over-inflated for your load. This picture below shows what happens when you “over-inflate”.  With the higher air pressure, the tread of the tire has a radius and does not sit flat on the road.  The load is carried by the 3 center ribs and the shoulder ribs are always “squirming”.  This is what leads to the irregular wear on the shoulders (typically).  The center ribs wear evenly because they are carrying the load.  The trailer likely “bounces” a lot when you hit a rough section of road.













I always recommend 5-10 psi higher than the minimum – in your case 75 psi minimum.  Check your pressure with an accurate gauge before every trip and you should have no issues.

Hope this helps. 

*Al Eagleson* ‘*ACE’*
Segment Manager, Commercial Tires
Off. (289) 499-3240 x202
Cel. (416) 315-9391




300-1 Kenview Blvd.,
Brampton, ON, L6T 5E6

 

j


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## jaredjohn4

Almost got home.
The dog and I left the Fort on 4/3.  About 1200 miles later and 3 miles from home the I lost all forward power.  I was able to coast into a church parking lot and called my local dealer.  At 73,000 miles my Ram 2500 diesel is still in warranty so Chrysler towed it in for free.  I had to call some friends with fifth wheels to get somebody to pull my camper the last three miles.  It could have been a lot worse if it happened somewhere out of state.  The mechanic said a plastic control box on the outside of the tranny failed.  He said up until about 4 years ago they replaced a lot of them, now just occasionally.  This little incident won't dampen my spirit.  I still love the truck and the camper.


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## Teamubr

Glad you were so close to home and it was covered under warranty. It's still frustrating but these things are mechanical items that will fail. 

j


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## tiggerdad

Yep, drive me long enough and I don't care which brand you're going with, mechanical breakdowns are guaranteed


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## friendofeeyore

I drive a 3500 diesel duramax Chevy truck. I get 17 to 18 mpg. Love my truck!


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## Sluf

So I need a little guidance on my next tow vehicle. Jim already knows a little about about my plan, but I haven't spoken with him specifically about what I'm going to ask about here. A little back story and explanation of how I got to here... 

On the way home from the Fort in February  I blew off part of the side of my 5th wheel. I've since repaired it, and have it ready to camp in again. Before Progressive denied the claim, the wife and I were discussing what we would replace it with if they totalled it and paid it off. We decided that we'd like to have a toy hauler for our next camper, and larger than what we currently have. I can't go much bigger than our current camper, due to my tow vehicle. My truck is rated at 13,100 towing capacity. While I don't care a bit to tow that weight, or even a little beyond that (I know, I'm a bad boy), if we move up to what we want, we're looking at more like 18k. That's just a whole lot more than I'm willing to pull with a 2001 F250. That leads me to my current dilemma.

I plan on my next tow vehicle being an MDT. After looking at the options, it looks like I'm probably going to buy a used F650. I've found several, and am very seriously considering buying one of them. It's a former fire department rescue truck. It's a crew cab, is 2WD, and has air brakes. The "problem" (not really a problem) is that it has a wheelbase about 8 miles long. I'm not exactly sure what it is, but it's probably 220", or somewhere thereabouts. Shortening the wheelbase isn't a problem, and the driveshaft can be done easily at a local driveline shop.

The big questions I have are stuff like... Should I shorten it to a standard cab and chassis length from cab to axle, or do whatever I want? I plan to fabricate a custom hauler bed for it, regardless of what I buy, unless it already has one. I want the ability to use it to haul stuff as well, lumber, etc. Anything specific ro MDTs that I need to consider?


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> So I need a little guidance on my next tow vehicle. Jim already knows a little about about my plan, but I haven't spoken with him specifically about what I'm going to ask about here. A little back story and explanation of how I got to here...
> 
> On the way home from the Fort in February  I blew off part of the side of my 5th wheel. I've since repaired it, and have it ready to camp in again. Before Progressive denied the claim, the wife and I were discussing what we would replace it with if they totalled it and paid it off. We decided that we'd like to have a toy hauler for our next camper, and larger than what we currently have. I can't go much bigger than our current camper, due to my tow vehicle. My truck is rated at 13,100 towing capacity. While I don't care a bit to tow that weight, or even a little beyond that (I know, I'm a bad boy), if we move up to what we want, we're looking at more like 18k. That's just a whole lot more than I'm willing to pull with a 2001 F250. That leads me to my current dilemma.
> 
> I plan on my next tow vehicle being an MDT. After looking at the options, it looks like I'm probably going to buy a used F650. I've found several, and am very seriously considering buying one of them. It's a former fire department rescue truck. It's a crew cab, is 2WD, and has air brakes. The "problem" (not really a problem) is that it has a wheelbase about 8 miles long. I'm not exactly sure what it is, but it's probably 220", or somewhere thereabouts. Shortening the wheelbase isn't a problem, and the driveshaft can be done easily at a local driveline shop.
> 
> The big questions I have are stuff like... Should I shorten it to a standard cab and chassis length from cab to axle, or do whatever I want? I plan to fabricate a custom hauler bed for it, regardless of what I buy, unless it already has one. I want the ability to use it to haul stuff as well, lumber, etc. Anything specific ro MDTs that I need to consider?



A lot of MDT's are underpowered and overpriced. Most firetrucks I would not touch, they get driven hard, some are taken care of. But most do not have the gearing to run on the highway at highway speeds. Most are geared low to get a lot of weight moving and have no top end. And most are not comfortable, cab overs tend to bounce. I know our 8x8's did in the military. If you are insisting on going this route, I would consider looking at MDT from the horse world, they use them to tow large horse trailers. And make sure it has the cargo capacity for the pin weight, between 20/25 percent of the trailer weight. 
Just my 2 cents at the end of the day.


----------



## Sluf

PaHunter said:


> A lot of MDT's are underpowered and overpriced. Most firetrucks I would not touch, they get driven hard, some are taken care of. But most do not have the gearing to run on the highway at highway speeds. Most are geared low to get a lot of weight moving and have no top end. And most are not comfortable, cab overs tend to bounce. I know our 8x8's did in the military. If you are insisting on going this route, I would consider looking at MDT from the horse world, they use them to tow large horse trailers. And make sure it has the cargo capacity for the pin weight, between 20/25 percent of the trailer weight.
> Just my 2 cents at the end of the day.



Without the axle code on the truck I was looking at, I have no idea what the gear ratio of that particular truck is. I can get that pretty easily though, as well as what the spring code is. The particular truck I was looking at had a rescue body on it. It's a 5.9 Cummins and Allison automatic. The guy said he drove it from Texas to Alabama and it ran 72mph. As far as power goes, it's only rated at something like 215 hp, but that should be easily taken care of with a tune. 

Whatever I get, I'm definitely going to look it over real good. I'm not terribly worried about buying a firetruck/rescue truck. All of our trucks are governed, and most others are as well. While we DO run them hard, they're also pretty well maintained as well. The brakes take more of a beating on fire service equipment more so than the driveline.


----------



## Teamubr

Rodney,

I know a bit of the back story on the truck you were considering. It likely has been cared for better than "retired" ones. The gearing is a big consideration. My brother is a musician. For one of his earlier traveling bands, he bought an old International Loadstar box truck. It was considered a "city" (delivery) truck and had a 5 speed in it. 1st was useless unless the truck was very full and starting on an uphill. It would turn almost 4,000 rpm on the highway and make you go deaf. He only kept it a year before he bought a newer moving company truck with a real Allison transmission and highway gears. 

If you do go the fire truck route, I wouldn't be too concerned about the wheelbase. The F450 and up trucks have a much tighter wheel cut than the "lesser" trucks. That means you can turn tighter despite the long wheelbase. I'd drive it around a bit before deciding to shorten it. I bet it turns tighter or at least the same as my F350 dually. Same the money for a nice bed conversion and hitch.

j


----------



## Sluf

Teamubr said:


> Rodney,
> 
> I know a bit of the back story on the truck you were considering. It likely has been cared for better than "retired" ones. The gearing is a big consideration. My brother is a musician. For one of his earlier traveling bands, he bought an old International Loadstar box truck. It was considered a "city" (delivery) truck and had a 5 speed in it. 1st was useless unless the truck was very full and starting on an uphill. It would turn almost 4,000 rpm on the highway and make you go deaf. He only kept it a year before he bought a newer moving company truck with a real Allison transmission and highway gears.
> 
> If you do go the fire truck route, I wouldn't be too concerned about the wheelbase. The F450 and up trucks have a much tighter wheel cut than the "lesser" trucks. That means you can turn tighter despite the long wheelbase. I'd drive it around a bit before deciding to shorten it. I bet it turns tighter or at least the same as my F350 dually. Same the money for a nice bed conversion and hitch.
> 
> j



Awe man, the wheelbase on that thing is CRAZY LONG. The crossmembers and spring hangers are bolted on, not riveted, so moving the axle should be a fairly easy job. The only money involved would be shortening the driveshaft  and if it works out that I could just remove the center shaft and move the rear shaft forward, it wouldn't cost anything. I'm thinking a couple hundred bucks should do the driveshaft though at a shop.

Depending on which Allison it has in it, it could be 1:1 in top gear, or it could be overdrive, or even double overdrive. One plus is that it has 22.5 wheels instead of 19.5 wheels.


----------



## tiggerdad

I just want to know...

 

What did he use to tie it down?

His driving may of been suspect, but his securing certainly is not.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Duct tape & zip ties?


----------



## Teamubr

Not sure about the rest of the performance, but he stuck the landing.

j


----------



## mickeyfan0805

tiggerdad said:


> I just want to know...
> 
> What did he use to tie it down?



They were filming a commercial for Gorilla Glue!


----------



## bama_ed

Impressive indeed!


----------



## sirenia88

Couple of questions here.

1) half ton truck with that payload?  Dang!
2) What happened to the trailer axles/ tires?  Those had to have launched big time!
3) Nice chain job.  Then again when I worked in the construction equipment industry, we would have guys come in with no chains or straps all the time.  Then they would get all whiny about us requiring them to buy chains from us to take the equipment out of the yard.

We had one company bring back an attachment on a deck over trailer with no straps or chains.  When we told him that was unsafe, his attitude was " I have insurance so who cares.  You will get a new one from my insurance company if it falls off.  If you are going to read me the riot act I will take my business elsewhere including my equipment purchases."  This was coming from the owner driving the truck attached to said trailer.  We contacted our main office and explained what happened since the owner of this company had told us this. The owner of our company said don't worry he would handle it.   Sure enough, the owner of the landscape contractor called our owner and complained about how he was treated in the yard.  He told the owner that he would not do business with us anymore and he was going to tell his other contractor friends to deal with a company that could handle his needs.  The owner of our company just said OK he would give him the rental for free and would have a chat with us.  The contractor still came in for a rental on another piece of equipment the next week I think.  We had a mechanic watch him chain the unit leaving the yard.   All of our locations got a memo from above to have customers sign off on chaining and strapping clause added to the rental contract with company representative present .  If they didn't know how to do it or refused to do it, it would delivered to the job site for a charge.  Contractors would complain saying they didn't need to sign it since insurance would cover it or would want our people to do it.  Probably for an insurance scam.  I was leary of this type of stuff over a dozen years ago.

However so there after I left as the house crisis of 2007 broke.  Our branch's sales in all departments were down.  When the owner would come in, he would ask me if I had been noticing anything different.  I said yes.  People were not buying as much in parts, holding off on repairs, rentals seemed to be down.  I knew this since I worked the front counter and helped in the shop and yard.  We had contractors who would normally be good on the billing start slipping.  He would brush it off as nothing.  Everything was fine nothing to worry.  One of largest accounts we dealt with a large landscape contractor who's biggest account was a large developer who basically went cold turkey on all subs and the like.  I want to say it was DR Horton or Toll Bros.  That company (landscaper) wound up failing about 2 years into the great recession.  They gave their shop location to a local town.  Sold off about 35 pieces of equipment and laid off everyone.  It was crazy since we were always at their vendor parties for all the holidays.  If there was a problem with the bills, the owner would come down from the shop to our branch.  He would apologize for the problem and make the account current right there.  His attitude was I need to keep my guys working.  If my account is holding them up, I am not making money.


Side story...

Soon after I left the company, they closed up the branch about 18 months later.  I ran into a former co worker of mine about this.  When I left there were 3 management changes in the matter of 7 months.  Each change got worse.  When I left, they had someone in charge with no clue of how to run the branch.  Turns out that person left after they let go of all the people I knew there.  They fired one mechanic after his workers comp case was settled.  He knew it was coming though.  That same manager said they would come after him.  He won unemployment since she said it in front of another worker at the place.  She also fired the head mechanic when he asked why he was not brought in on release of the mechanic.  He was part of all personnel issues within the shop.  They even told this same head mechanic he was in a supervisory role and his input was critical of running the service shop.  LoL  As he was being fired, the new mechanic showed up early and went to him and asked where he should put his tools as he was locking his tool box up so he could get his trailer to pull his tools out. The head mechanic very funny guy turned to him and said something to the effect "up where the sun does not shine or something" right in front the manager.  It made for an awkward exchange.  That new guy #2 since they had a replacement for the other guy that was fired working there.   Oh and that manager, yeah it turns out some other stuff happened.  I heard a few different things.   I would say there was some truth to it.  She left about 3 months after that whole thing claiming she was too far from home every day.  Funny before all of this she commuted from the same location everyday for about 5 or 6 years prior without a problem.  Go figure.  Worst part was it was a great place to work for the most part.  We knew our customers old and new as well as they knew us.  Everyone knew everyone by first name and most of problems where handle quickly and with everyone happy.  We had a good rep up to that point for sales, service, rentals, and parts.   The owner of the company wound up having to close 2 of the 3 branches down due to economy at that time. 

Another crazy thing, I happened to be walking down the road near my parent's house.  The head mechanic's wife knew me from the company.  This was also right after my daughter was born.  I was in a place at the time in which I could not comprehend.  While walking down this quiet lake community road trying to deal with being a new parent and other issues in life, I heard the screech of tires and some yelling.  At first, I thought it was a resident of the lake doing something or another.  As I looked back over my shoulder, I saw this car coming back at me.  As I was just about to jump out of the way, it was his wife yelling for me not at me.  She was going about a minute a second about her husband and how he lost my number.  He wanted to call me about this place and everything.  He was depressed....  so forth and so on.  She was just coming back from her friend who apparently lived no more than a street away from my parents.  She offered to give me a ride to their house to talk to him and the like.  I said give me a ride back to my folks and I will come over.   I gave her my numbers so he could reach out at anytime.

I got home, told my DW what happened.  She was like "Are you serious?  They let him go?" She said go over to his place.  I picked up a 12 pack of beer for the guy. I stopped at the house and we had a talk for several hours.  He told me everything that just happened.  He said at the time, he thought I was wrong for leaving but soon realized, I was the first one to wake up there as he put it.   He started there about 3 years  than I was and I was there for about 6 years.  He asked about me and my wife.  He congratulated us on the birth of our daughter.  He was happy to talk to someone about this.  He said he had reached out to the other mechanic that was fired about 4 days before.  (We were friends with him too but we fell out when I left the place as well. Same reason they thought I was wrong. became friendly again.  However when he got fired he was one of the first people I got a call from.  He said I was right.  I wound up helping him find another job by working with him on a resumes and the like.  He is doing pretty well these days.)  Then he dispatched some fatherly advice with the whole daughter thing.  We were the same in the fact we both had single daughters.  As I helped him, he kind of helped me too.

Anyway, I digress.


----------



## Gino USMC

So quick unhitching story.  Ive had my 32 travel trailer for a year now.  We were are the Williamsburg, Va KOA.  Our lot was on a very slight decline.  I chalked the trailer wheels, put 2 leveling blocks on top of each other and put the jack pad on top of it and started the unhitch process.  I already had the chains off.  Once the jack unhitched from the truck, the whole trailer slid back and to the left.  This has never happened to me before.  I freaked out for a minute and had to calm down.  A guy at the next site ran over and checked on me and said that has happened to him a few times.  He recommended that I keep the chains on until im completely set.  Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## Teamubr

Gino USMC said:


> Has this happened to anyone else?


Try it with a 5th wheel. 

I think most of us have had this happen at some point. My first trailer was a 19ft hybrid, single axle, weighed less than 4,000 lbs. One of our first trips was to Destin at Camping on the Gulf. Beachfront site. You think it would be flat. I didn't even have wheel chocks. I just used some 2X4s. I didn't put the "boards" behind the tires, figuring the trailer can't go anywhere in the sand. You should have seen me trying to hold the trailer back after it cleared the ball. I finally gave up and let it roll back until it nudged the telephone poles they had in the sand to keep you from driving onto the beach.

Two years ago with my new 5er (42 ft, 15,000 lbs), I was camping at a COE lake in central IL. The site wasn't level side to side and one set of wheels were on about 4 inches of blocks. I had the wheels chocked, but when I hitched up, I hit the pin a little hard and it rolled the side on blocks right off. The landing legs were down and the side that rolled drug the landing leg, bending it about 30 degrees. Because the legs telescope into each other when they retract, the bend kept them from going up. I ran to town and bought a grinder and cut the leg off at the campground.

I have scissor clamps that go between the wheels now.

One of these is not like the other. I still keep the grinder in the trailer, just in case.

 

j


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Teamubr said:


> You should have seen me trying to hold the trailer back after it cleared the ball.



It was probably 6 years ago at an overnight stop in PA...We pulled into the spot, dropped the jack, and the moment it came off the ball, the 35', 8,000lb, trailer begins to roll.  Do I get out of the way?  No!  Do I run to grab boards or chocks to slide under the wheels?  No!  Do I yell at everyone in the area to look out?  No!  What do I do?  I grab onto the tongue as though my 5'6" super-strength is going to somehow manage to stop the 4 ton trailer from rolling down a hill!  

I don't leave it chained to the truck (although it's a policy worth consideration), but you can bet that my X-chocks are well in place before I ever unhook anymore!


----------



## Teamubr

mickeyfan0805 said:


> What do I do?  I grab onto the tongue as though my 5'6" super-strength is going to somehow manage to stop the 4 ton trailer from rolling down a hill!




That's pretty much what I looked like, except I'm 5'7". 

j


----------



## tripleb

Teamubr said:


> Try it with a 5th wheel.



Yep, some scary stuff with a FW. I backed onto my level parking pad along side of my house. Got out of the truck, didn't put any wheel chocks out, didn't put my tailgate down, didn't put down my landing gear, pulled the "unlock" lever on my FW hitch … FW slide off the hitch head and the tailgate stopped the FW. Thank goodness the pin box contacted the tailgate before the FW had a chance to crash down. Talk about a pucker factor 

Fortunately, no damage was done to the tailgate


----------



## sambuster

Lets talk Tires, my 2015 Jayco feather-lite 23f  -  factory tires have about 6500 miles on them.. while they show little or no wear, i think its time to replace them. Anyone have a recommendation  on brands.   st175-80r 13..   I thought about buying new tires and wheels and using the old tires for spares.     thanks SamBuster


----------



## PaHunter

sambuster said:


> Lets talk Tires, my 2015 Jayco feather-lite 23f  -  factory tires have about 6500 miles on them.. while they show little or no wear, i think its time to replace them. Anyone have a recommendation  on brands.   st175-80r 13..   I thought about buying new tires and wheels and using the old tires for spares.     thanks SamBuster



Sailun tires, Goodyear 614's and I have heard good things about Carlisle Tires. Boar Tires would be overkill on your trailer as they are for heavy fifth wheels.


----------



## Teamubr

I put Sailuns on my 5er last Fall and they are great. The only problem for you is they (Sailun S637 and the Goodyear 614) don't come in a tire small enough. The 614s are also VERY expensive.

Carlisle are OK. I had some on my old 5er for a while. I can't say they were any better than the no-name tires. Goodyear has a new small/medium trailer tire, Endurance. It replaced the Marathon. My tire guy said they haven't sold enough to know if it is any good. He said it seems like a rebranded Marathon. Unfortunately, the Marathon turned into junk the last 5 years or so it was made.

I've heard good things about the Maxxis M8008, but I've never had them. They do come in your tire size.

j


----------



## Gino USMC

Howdy folks,
I am towing my 32 ft travel trailer to the fort next month from Virginia.  I have a 2012 1500 Silverado with about 164,000 miles.  I have worked on vehicles since high school.  I just started towing our trailer last year.  I have done most routine maintenance so far.  I changed out the front and rear gear oil, engine oil last month.  Transfer case was done last year, and transmission was serviced done about 4 months ago.  

My question is what else should I do before we leave?


----------



## PaHunter

Gino USMC said:


> Howdy folks,
> I am towing my 32 ft travel trailer to the fort next month from Virginia.  I have a 2012 1500 Silverado with about 164,000 miles.  I have worked on vehicles since high school.  I just started towing our trailer last year.  I have done most routine maintenance so far.  I changed out the front and rear gear oil, engine oil last month.  Transfer case was done last year, and transmission was serviced done about 4 months ago.
> 
> My question is what else should I do before we leave?



Check your brakes and coolant levels. Then enjoy the Fort.


----------



## Gino USMC

PaHunter said:


> Check your brakes and coolant levels. Then enjoy the Fort.



Thanks.  I was planning on changing the front brakes and getting the coolant serviced.


----------



## KPSmithSr

You want to check the tire pressures and wear on truck and TT tires.  Maybe grease the truck and the TT also.


----------



## Teamubr

Take a look at belts and hoses. The age isn't too bad, but mileage may be having an impact. If the serpentine belt is getting cracked and dry, do the tensioner and idler pulleys at the same time. It will cost more, but one of those will go bad at some point and it is easier to do them when the belt is getting done.

j


----------



## WeLovePluto

I got to test the brakes on my new truck and TT for our July 4 trip when someone decided they needed to make an exit from the middle lane of the interstate by coming to a full stop and taking a right turn. Cars on either side of me. 

Happy to say it was a successful test and everything looked ok after.


----------



## bama_ed

WeLovePluto said:


> I got to test the brakes on my new truck and TT for our July 4 trip when someone decided they needed to make an exit from the middle lane of the interstate by coming to a full stop and taking a right turn. Cars on either side of me.
> 
> Happy to say it was a successful test and everything looked ok after.



Your ability to post here is PROOF of a test A-OK, WeLovePluto.

There will always be those kind of folks out there.

Glad you made it to this Sunday (today) after 7/4 to tell us about it.

Bama Ed


----------



## Sjm9911

Gino USMC said:


> Thanks.  I was planning on changing the front brakes and getting the coolant serviced.


Only other thing would be the battery depending on the age. And the rear shocks( did you have them changed yet?) I have the same truck but a gmc.


----------



## peg110

WeLovePluto said:


> I got to test the brakes on my new truck and TT for our July 4 trip when someone decided they needed to make an exit from the middle lane of the interstate by coming to a full stop and taking a right turn. Cars on either side of me.
> 
> Happy to say it was a successful test and everything looked ok after.



I had a similar incident on my way home last Sunday from the Fort. I was in the Driving (left) lane and they were in the far Right lane (2 over from me) and decided at the last minute to cross all lanes and get of an exit (Rest Stop) and about near ran me off the road. 

Sadly, I almost expected him to do what he did, so I was prepared, but it amazes me on what some people do when they drive.


----------



## Gino USMC

Sjm9911 said:


> Only other thing would be the battery depending on the age. And the rear shocks( did you have them changed yet?) I have the same truck but a gmc.


Changing the brakes today.  Havent changed the rear shocks yet.  Battery doesn't look to old.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Some of @tiggerdad kin folk in central Mississippi


----------



## tiggerdad

SouthAlabama5er said:


> View attachment 426627
> 
> Some of @tiggerdad kin folk in central Mississippi



Cousin Delbert.

That's the limo for his daughter's wedding.  She's marrying a sophisticated sort.  He just got his middle school diploma.  Pretty impressive for a 21 year old around here.


----------



## sirenia88

OMG @tiggerdad    Too funny....


----------



## bigdisneydaddy

Thats the kind of rugged get it done attitude that will have the rednecks running things if it ever gets bad in America


----------



## tripleb

Although we have had to curtail our glamping adventures for several months (minor health reasons), including canceling our September reservations at the Fort, we have upgraded our tow vehicle to accommodate our future adventures. "Upgraded" to a new Silverado 3500HD, SRW, LTZ, Duramax, 4WD, 8' bed. Had a Silverado 2500HD gasser. NIGHT and DAY difference in the towing experience and quite a bit better fuel economy. I realize the maintenance cost will be higher with the diesel but the towing experience is phenomenal.


----------



## tiggerdad

tripleb said:


> Although we have had to curtail our glamping adventures for several months (minor health reasons), including canceling our September reservations at the Fort, we have upgraded our tow vehicle to accommodate our future adventures. "Upgraded" to a new Silverado 3500HD, SRW, LTZ, Duramax, 4WD, 8' bed. Had a Silverado 2500HD gasser. NIGHT and DAY difference in the towing experience and quite a bit better fuel economy. I realize the maintenance cost will be higher with the diesel but the towing experience is phenomenal.View attachment 435252


The maintenance cost will be higher, but the experience pulling will make up for it.  Your Jayco looks similar to mine, so likely the weight is close.  My f250 diesel pulls it effortlessly so you should have similar experience.


----------



## Teamubr

Looks like a great combo.

j


----------



## bama_ed

tripleb said:


> Although we have had to curtail our glamping adventures for several months (minor health reasons), including canceling our September reservations at the Fort, we have upgraded our tow vehicle to accommodate our future adventures. "Upgraded" to a new Silverado 3500HD, SRW, LTZ, Duramax, 4WD, 8' bed. Had a Silverado 2500HD gasser. NIGHT and DAY difference in the towing experience and quite a bit better fuel economy. I realize the maintenance cost will be higher with the diesel but the towing experience is phenomenal.View attachment 435252



That's a good looking combo, tripleb.

I hope there are MANY miles and lot of adventures in your future with it.

Bama Ed


----------



## Sluf

MDT/HDT question. 

I'm currently trying to decide whether to buy an F650/F750 (probably F750), or to buy an F450. The 650/750 is about half the price of a 4WD crew cab long bed diesel F450, so I'm definitely leaning that direction. The obvious safety factor of the F650/F750 is also a consideration. I intend to put air ride suspension on the truck, so an F750 is a better choice since it will already have an on board compressor. It's not commercial, so no CDL, and Tennessee doesn't require anything special regarding licensing or registration. 

My insurance company (Progressive) however, requires commercial insurance on an F650/F750, regardless of its use. Who do you guys carry your insurance thru, and do they require commercial insurance? Is there a "trick" to getting around paying for commercial insurance for a vehicle that is 100% not commercial? Thanks!


----------



## PaHunter

Sluf said:


> MDT/HDT question.
> 
> I'm currently trying to decide whether to buy an F650/F750 (probably F750), or to buy an F450. The 650/750 is about half the price of a 4WD crew cab long bed diesel F450, so I'm definitely leaning that direction. The obvious safety factor of the F650/F750 is also a consideration. I intend to put air ride suspension on the truck, so an F750 is a better choice since it will already have an on board compressor. It's not commercial, so no CDL, and Tennessee doesn't require anything special regarding licensing or registration.
> 
> My insurance company (Progressive) however, requires commercial insurance on an F650/F750, regardless of its use. Who do you guys carry your insurance thru, and do they require commercial insurance? Is there a "trick" to getting around paying for commercial insurance for a vehicle that is 100% not commercial? Thanks!



PM being sent.


----------



## epcotfortmama

Hi,

After years of wanting a camper, we have bought our first one. It is a converted cargo trailer and is 6 by 10. We will also bring our tent. We are very excited to have our first tip to the Fort booked for Spring Break! I booked a tent/pop up site-will this be fine? 

This thread has been very helpful and since this is our first camper we have towing questions. Currently we have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT (and a Prius but not helpful for towing lol). Our van does not have a towing hitch installed and we are considering either adding it on or buying a used SUV like a Honda Pilot or Toyota Highlander. I have read that vans are not always great with towing, especially on the transmission. We will mostly be camping around Michigan, but will do a long trip about once a year. The camper weighs 1,000 pounds dry and we are a family of 5 (3 young kids). 

Any input appreciated!


----------



## Sjm9911

The site should be fine. Some people tow with vans, not ideal ,  but it can be done. Others say tou cant do it. I would just try to see what the towing capacity of the van is. Im not entirely sure what your camper is, so you have to add in all the weight you put in it. Additionally, you need to check your tires for age and weight and speed. Lastly, you will probably need some kind of smallish sway bar. Some also like air bags, or spacer things for the springs, helps keep the end of the van from dragging, it will not help with tow capacity. I dont know if vans come with tow packages, but if they do it includes things like a bigger cooling system etc. Things that are big money to add in later. Good luck. I never attempted it.


----------



## PaHunter

First even a small trailer like a 6x10 will be subject to winds pushing it around, think semi's passing you. There is a little yellow sticker on the door of your van, it says cargo capacity. Every vehicle has one, this is how much you can put in weight wise, people, stuff, tongue weight of your trailer. Weight balance in a trailer is very important, if it is too heavy in the rear, it will take weight off of the tow vehicle and can make it tow squirrely.  
Congratulations.


----------



## Sjm9911

Ok, time for my question, just relized, that i still have the oem p rated tires on my 1500 gmc sierra. Not a problem with the pop up,  ut now with the TT i feel a bit of the sidewall sway when towing. So , i need LT tires, now how much of a weight should i go. Ive been reading 10 ply tires, but i think thats overkill for a 4500 lb trailor, maybe 5000 loaded up. What say you , the wize and all knowing tow gurus?


----------



## Teamubr

Sjm9911 said:


> I've been reading 10 ply tires, but i think that's overkill for a 4500 lb trailer, maybe 5000 loaded up. What say you , the size and all knowing tow gurus?


Take a look at the door tag that shows your GVWR. It should also have an axle rating (front and rear). Use that to determine the load range tire you need. Going to an LT tire will definitely help the "squishy" feel. I just looked on Tire Rack and it seems that all the "LT" tires listed for a Sierra 1500 are load range E (10 ply). That will effect the ride quite a bit on a lighter truck. The same tire in a non-LT size isn't listed as a "P" tire, so that may be a nice alternative. Here is a screen shot of the various tire sizes available for a Michelin Defender LTX M/S.




This shows the specs for the 265/70R17 tires. You can see the difference in the LT vs non-LT for the same size. The red dot indicates a size that was an option on a 2016 Sierra 1500 crew cab. Double the Max Load number and that will give you the max axle load.




Post up the details on your 1500 (model year, style- crew cab/regular cab/, and the current tire size) and I can help with tire specs. Also, see what the axle rating is on the door tag.

j


----------



## Sjm9911

2012 Gmc sierra, crew cab, tow package. Ipl post up the axel stuff tomorow, i dont get out of work untill then and i took my jeep to work. Mid size engine and better gearing for the towing. Tow capacity is 8k or higher.


----------



## jeffrey1966

Question about weight distribution/sway control. 

I upgraded TT from Jayco x23f to Jayco 28bhbe recently. I never used WD/SC in the past but really feeling the need for it now. 
I have been looking at the Equalizer 10k hitch. Everywhere I look it seems to be around $600. I see other brands in the$350 range. Any recommendations whether the Equalizer is the one to get or keep checking out other brands would be appreciated.


----------



## Teamubr

jeffrey1966 said:


> Question about weight distribution/sway control.
> I have been looking at the Equalizer 10k hitch. Everywhere I look it seems to be around $600. I see other brands in the$350 range. Any recommendations whether the Equalizer is the one to get or keep checking out other brands would be appreciated.


Equalizer is a well known brand that many use. When I had a TT, I got a used W/D hitch from the dealer. Not sure of the brand (if it even had one), but it worked great. The key is to get the correct strength spring bars (at least rated for your hitch weight). Going over some on strength (1,000 lb bars for 750 lb hitch weight) is OK since most WD hitches allow a way to lighten the pull from the bars, but no way to make them stronger than rated. The WD hitch I had was very similar to the one in the pic. It was a "trunion" type (vs round bar) and used a chain and "snap up" bracket to adjust the amount of load. The less links used, the stronger the weight transfer. 



Here is the link to the one in the pic from e-trailer. It has 600 lb bars and runs $322. E-trailer also has WD/sway control combos starting around $300.

This one is a round bar style with integrated sway control. It is $363 on e-trailer. It also has 600 lb bars. It uses a different bracket type to set the load and isn't as quickly adjustable as the chain link type, but once it is set, you don't have to remember how many links to use each time.


The key isn't necessarily the brand or how much you pay, it is getting the correct weight bars and setting it up correctly. There are a bunch of good YouTube videos on how to set them up and adjust them. 

j


----------



## sirenia88

Sjm9911 said:


> 2012 Gmc sierra, crew cab, tow package. Ipl post up the axel stuff tomorow, i dont get out of work untill then and i took my jeep to work. Mid size engine and better gearing for the towing. Tow capacity is 8k or higher.  View attachment 438862




I towed with P Metric tires a few times.  I could not understand why my ride was total trash when towing.  I asked on a few forums about the problem.  A number of people said get air bags.  I felt that was not a solution.  Turned out, the truck I had for towing duty had P265/70R17.  I had LT265/70/R17 installed.  Ride and towing felt 100% different.   It made the drive down to our first Disney camping trip a much different experience.    The stiffer side walls with a planted feel made the trip more enjoyable.  YMMV  Good luck with your new ride.


----------



## Sjm9911

On the wdh, i have the big equalizer on mine, it came with the camper. For me i feel its oversized. Additionally,  it will creak and moan during trurns as its metal on metal. It woks, well. And it will probably outlast a nuclear blast its so  heavy.  Not sure if the chain ones make less noise, but they cant make more.


----------



## tiggerdad

My TT previously had the heavier WD hitch from dealer, and it worked very well.  Not sure on price as it was included with the TT.  Key to it is having it adjusted properly.  The receiver hitch itself is adjustable and the instructions will tell you specifically how to set it up based on the height of of the TT hitch when level, and the height of the receiver when not hooked to camper.  It is very important that you get this part setup right in the beginning in order to get the most out of the hitch.  Mine had the chains on it.  Key to hooking chains up and unhooking is take the hitch after you connect it to the truck and use the jack to let it WAY up.  then set the chains, and let it back down.  This makes it much easier.

The chain DH made noise too as you turned and moved.  A lot of that too is the sway control bar which I also strongly recommend adding as well.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> The receiver hitch itself is adjustable.  It is very important that you get this part setup right in the beginning.


THIS ^^^^



tiggerdad said:


> Key to hooking chains up and unhooking is take the hitch after you connect it to the truck and use the jack to let it WAY up.  then set the chains, and let it back down.  This makes it much easier.


And definitely THIS ^^^. It took me quite a few times to figure this out. Without raising the hitch, I had to use a big bar to pop the snapup into place. Raising the hitch, I could do it with one hand.

My chain type didn't make any noise. The sway control makes LOTS of noise. Mine squealed loudly when turning. Backing into a site, you'd think I was running over a herd of cats. I would usually loosen my sway control before backing so everyone didn't think I was strangling something.

j


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Teamubr said:


> THIS ^^^^
> 
> 
> And definitely THIS ^^^. It took me quite a few times to figure this out. Without raising the hitch, I had to use a big bar to pop the snapup into place. Raising the hitch, I could do it with one hand.



I don't have chains, but the bars onto the L-brackets of an Equal-i-zer are the same.  It came with a little leverage bar meant to pry the bars onto the brackets - it's never seen the light of day.  Raise the jack, swing the bar on with my pinky (not really - just dramatizing the point), and then lower.  Especially with a power jack, this is a no-brainer!


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> My chain type didn't make any noise. The sway control makes LOTS of noise. Mine squealed loudly when turning. Backing into a site, you'd think I was running over a herd of cats. I would usually loosen my sway control before backing so everyone didn't think I was strangling something.


I always took mine off as soon as I got to a campground when I was out at the check-in.  I did this mainly for everyone else it could be so loud.


----------



## jeffrey1966

Teamubr said:


> Equalizer is a well known brand that many use. When I had a TT, I got a used W/D hitch from the dealer. Not sure of the brand (if it even had one), but it worked great. The key is to get the correct strength spring bars (at least rated for your hitch weight). Going over some on strength (1,000 lb bars for 750 lb hitch weight) is OK since most WD hitches allow a way to lighten the pull from the bars, but no way to make them stronger than rated. The WD hitch I had was very similar to the one in the pic. It was a "trunion" type (vs round bar) and used a chain and "snap up" bracket to adjust the amount of load. The less links used, the stronger the weight transfer.
> 
> View attachment 438915
> 
> Here is the link to the one in the pic from e-trailer. It has 600 lb bars and runs $322. E-trailer also has WD/sway control combos starting around $300.
> 
> This one is a round bar style with integrated sway control. It is $363 on e-trailer. It also has 600 lb bars. It uses a different bracket type to set the load and isn't as quickly adjustable as the chain link type, but once it is set, you don't have to remember how many links to use each time.
> View attachment 438916
> 
> The key isn't necessarily the brand or how much you pay, it is getting the correct weight bars and setting it up correctly. There are a bunch of good YouTube videos on how to set them up and adjust them.
> 
> j


Thanks very much for this.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

All Good points on sway control and equalizer hitches. I pass campers all the time with the set up not adjusted right, their usually doing about 55 on the interstate and once I pass them I look in the mirror and their usually about half way on the shoulder probably stressed out and cussing me 
Having the correct hitch set up and have the camper ride level while hitched up is key to a not so stressful drive. Now brake checks and bad drivers texting not so much..

I'm about to bite the bullet and put 6 new tires on the camper some time over the winter.  Part of my getting ready for the 2020 meet. The TH still has the 5 year old Westlakes on it, they have done pretty good considering all the negative reviews and blow out pictures on several TV forums but after the countless trips back and forth to the dealer in Louisiana the tires have been about the only thing I haven't had a problem with. The guy I buy the tires for the Peterbilt from made me a pretty decent deal on some G614 Goodyears..

Also the DW and I purchased a dehumidifier for the camper yesterday from Lowe's, set it up last night on the countertop and ran the drain in to the sink. Zip ties a piece of wire mesh around the sewer drain to keep most bugs and squirrels @tiggerdad out and barely cracked open the grey water tank. So set it and forget it right?!

Also the DW noticed that one of the frameless windows is leaking, first time having this problem but with my South Alabama way of thinking- clear flex seal. I'm at the point now with this camper if I cant fix it right I'll just flex seal it up and go on about my day. 

As far as the truck my plans are to have a set of Talladega Fiberglass full fenders by this time next year. The truck tires are bad about grabbing rocks so I wanna prevent any more cracked Fiberglass.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I'm about to bite the bullet and put 6 new tires on the camper some time over the winter.  Part of my getting ready for the 2020 meet. The guy I buy the tires for the Peterbilt from made me a pretty decent deal on some G614 Goodyears..
> 
> As far as the truck my plans are to have a set of Talladega Fiberglass full fenders by this time next year. The truck tires are bad about grabbing rocks so I wanna prevent any more cracked Fiberglass.


Randy,

Check out Sailun tires. Same load as the G614, but half the price. I put them on my 5er last year after one of the 2 1/2 year old "factory" tires blew on the way back from GSP. They have been amazing. They are 2 load ranges higher E to G (check your rims to make sure they are rated for the higher PSI). The Sailuns tow incredible. Handling is much better. I also am getting better mpg. The tires don't squat, even at the same psi (80) and they "roll" so much easier. I didn't realize how much the old tires felt like I was always pulling through sand. These Sailuns just roll well. Another interesting thing is the trailer doesn't bounce when parked like it used to. Even with the JT Strong Arms and the rear jacks down solid, the trailer would still have a pretty good shake and bounce when someone was walking around. Not anymore.

Support from the manufacturer was also great. I initially blew them up to the max, 110psi, but the ride was rock hard and it felt like I was going to break things. I contacted the company and he sent a psi/weight chart, similar to what we had for race tires. With the 3,000 lbs per tire I have, the sheet said 75-80 psi. The tires are also rated to 80mph. Since you tow like I do, that is an advantage.


Those fenders should keep the rocks from causing any more issues AND they will look cool too.

j

*<<Edit>>* 
I just checked on the price for a Sailun S637 ST235/85R-16 G tire. $167.97. Not sure what you can get the Goodyear for. This was through SimpleTire. They were shipped to my local tire shop and I paid another $20/tire to have them mounted/balanced.


----------



## PaHunter

SouthAlabama5er said:


> All Good points on sway control and equalizer hitches. I pass campers all the time with the set up not adjusted right, their usually doing about 55 on the interstate and once I pass them I look in the mirror and their usually about half way on the shoulder probably stressed out and cussing me
> Having the correct hitch set up and have the camper ride level while hitched up is key to a not so stressful drive. Now brake checks and bad drivers texting not so much..
> 
> I'm about to bite the bullet and put 6 new tires on the camper some time over the winter.  Part of my getting ready for the 2020 meet. The TH still has the 5 year old Westlakes on it, they have done pretty good considering all the negative reviews and blow out pictures on several TV forums but after the countless trips back and forth to the dealer in Louisiana the tires have been about the only thing I haven't had a problem with. The guy I buy the tires for the Peterbilt from made me a pretty decent deal on some G614 Goodyears..
> 
> Also the DW and I purchased a dehumidifier for the camper yesterday from Lowe's, set it up last night on the countertop and ran the drain in to the sink. Zip ties a piece of wire mesh around the sewer drain to keep most bugs and squirrels @tiggerdad out and barely cracked open the grey water tank. So set it and forget it right?!
> 
> Also the DW noticed that one of the frameless windows is leaking, first time having this problem but with my South Alabama way of thinking- clear flex seal. I'm at the point now with this camper if I cant fix it right I'll just flex seal it up and go on about my day.
> 
> As far as the truck my plans are to have a set of Talladega Fiberglass full fenders by this time next year. The truck tires are bad about grabbing rocks so I wanna prevent any more cracked Fiberglass.



We don't need a dehumidifier it is not that bad. I have a Davis Air heater that we use in our trailer during winter storage. Designed to keep boats mold free, and it does up to 1000 sq ft. Also have one for the truck for the time it sits.


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## Sjm9911

Dont make me look for dehumidifiers and stuff yet, i barly camped im my TT! I tought some cab fresh would do........


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## tiggerdad

I always keep dehumidifier in mine when in storage.  You'd be amazed how the moisture can be in them.


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## jbrostek

PaHunter said:


> We don't need a dehumidifier it is not that bad. I have a Davis Air heater that we use in our trailer during winter storage. Designed to keep boats mold free, and it does up to 1000 sq ft. Also have one for the truck for the time it sits.



I will need to look into one of them. I noticed this past winter was the first time I saw some signs of humidity.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

jbrostek said:


> I will need to look into one of them. I noticed this past winter was the first time I saw some signs of humidity.



I've never had much sign of humidity in the off-season, but I've used Damp Rid buckets just in case.  Seems to do the trick.


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> I will need to look into one of them. I noticed this past winter was the first time I saw some signs of humidity.



If you have power nearby and can run just an extension cord to power the trailer, the Davis units are really nice, they sit on a surface and have a tiny heating element. Uses the same power as having a light bulb on. And they are not too expensive, I think we paid around 50 bucks for each unit.


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## jbrostek

I looked them up, I think I would do two 500 units rather then a single 1000sq ft just to leave one in the BR and one in the main living.  I am usually powered all winter as well.  I have not put a full 50A plug in yet, but we are going to at least put a 30A in at this new place.


----------



## PaHunter

jbrostek said:


> I looked them up, I think I would do two 500 units rather then a single 1000sq ft just to leave one in the BR and one in the main living.  I am usually powered all winter as well.  I have not put a full 50A plug in yet, but we are going to at least put a 30A in at this new place.



I run our off of a 15 amp outlet for the air dryer. I have a 50 amp outside the garage for when we load.


----------



## jbrostek

I am running on a 15A right now. I need to get a new cord though as its showing its age.  I liked having the 50A at the old house, and depending on where I put the plug at the new place will probably dictate if I use a 50 or a 30.


----------



## snowmedic

jbrostek said:


> I looked them up, I think I would do two 500 units rather then a single 1000sq ft just to leave one in the BR and one in the main living.  I am usually powered all winter as well.  I have not put a full 50A plug in yet, but we are going to at least put a 30A in at this new place.



Just reading through the post, not trying to be a smart ( fill in the blank ) but, looking at the Davis unit, your measurements would be in cubic feet , length x width x height.  ( 32’ x 9’ x 7’ =2016 cubic ft. ) Not square feet which would be length x width ( 10’ x 100’ = 1000 sq. ft., that would be one big camper.


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## jbrostek

I was thinking about that too.  I put sq/ft, but was thinking cu/ft.  thinking a 1000 would likely be enough in this area, but two 500 could be just as good.


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## SouthAlabama5er

I took your advice Jim/ @Teamubr advice, I ordered the Sailuns for the 5er, two days later...
When I ever get back in town I'm going to go have them installed with metal valve stems. The grand total w/tax was $1017 on simpletire.com free shipping via FedEx right to the house. 

My stepson has a pipeline job coming up in Bushell, Fl. for the next three months so I'm gonna let him use the 5er to stay in. So I found a nice campground there and he booked it. I told my DW that it's kinda close to Disney and Tampa / Busch Gardens area. So some short two or three day mini trips might be in our future.


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## jbrostek

I was just thinking how next summer I will need to do that as my tires are old in age.  Would love to hear what you think about them.


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> I took your advice Jim/ @Teamubr advice, I ordered the Sailuns for the 5er.
> 
> My stepson has a pipeline job coming up in Bushell, Fl. for the next three months. I told my DW that it's kinda close to Disney and Tampa / Busch Gardens area. So some short two or three day mini trips might be in our future.


I think you will really like the tires on your trailer. Below is the spreadsheet Sailun sent me to determine how much air to put in. Per the chart, I can run mine down to 60psi (3,000lbs on each tire).






jbrostek said:


> I was just thinking how next summer I will need to do that as my tires are old in age.  Would love to hear what you think about them.


jbrostek,

I have pulled a lot of different trailers all around the country. My current camper is my 4th, but I raced sports cars for a long time. I've towed everything from open single car trailers to 48ft enclosed 2 car haulers with triple axles (21,000 lbs). For heavy trailers (12,000lbs and up) load range E tires will give you problems, especially if you tow at regular highway speeds in the heat. The sidewalls flex too much and the heat generation will eventually kill them. The Sailun S637 is G rated. You'll have to check the rims on you camper to see what the rim is rated. Mine were stamped "110psi" on the inside. The S637 has very stiff sidewalls. I was amazed how much the old E tires squatted sitting in the driveway compared to these Sailuns. The RV forum "experts" have recommended Sailuns for a long time.

I just pulled the trailer back from the storage lot last night and it continues to amaze me how well the tires "roll". With the old E tires, when lifting off the gas, you could feel the trailer immediately pulling to slow you down. Like pulling the trailer through sand or snow. I lift off the gas now and the truck slows like it does without the trailer on.

I can't speak to longevity, but other are getting many miles and years on them.

The Sailuns are also rated to 75mph. I highlighted that on the spreadsheet. If you look up the fine print on many E rated ST tires, they are only rated to 60mph (or less).

j


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## PaHunter

With our setup we will be putting new tires on in the spring, but will be going with BOAR tires and rims. It converts your tires over to use semi truck tires on your trailer.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Thanks for that spread sheet Jim, I'm going tomorrow to get them put on,m with metal valve stems, I'll probably set them at 80 psi. Looking at the sailuns I'm impressed that they have a date of 2919 which isn't bad at all. Nice heavy stiff sidewalls. I think they'll roll pretty easy like you say, especially behind that 625 horse Cummins in my Pete. (yup finally got it "tuned") 

Chris I've seen that setup your talking about going with good choice, it's like a 17.5 or 19.5 rim or something I've thought about it but never did pulled the trigger on it. It's a better peace of mind when your towing. 

I would like to take one of the old Westlakes and find another rim and have two spares. I wanna move the winch for the one spare over and install one more winch and store both tires underneath the 5er. The Westlakes on it now have a 15 has the year they were made, cant remember the week number but I believe its time to replace before I have a blow out. I pulled one tire off last week to check the rim psi and after looking it over pretty good I didn't see any cracks or bad spots in the tire nor did I find a psi number on the rim, I had to research it online.


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Teamubr said:


> The Sailuns are also rated to 75mph.



That's just merging speed for running down I75 

It's like RRC every week when I turn south on 75 "prepare to merge like you ain't ever merge before"


----------



## Stratman50th

*Dash Cameras*
Just checking to see what dash cameras other people are using. I currently have a KdLinks X3 2.7k super HD. I think I paid around $130 for it. It works ok. It's a camera and it records. I would like something with more clarity as well as being gps equiped. (My fault, I hit the wrong button when ordering). Before this I had a Garmin Dash Cam 55. It was around $200, had all the bells and whistles as well as great video, Problem was it only lasted one day. It shut off and wouldn't restart so it went back. I wouldn't mind replacing the current camera with one having better features but I'd like to know what others are using and how they like what they have. 
Thanks!
Don


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## PaHunter

I have been using a cheap 30 dollar camera from online, but I saw the other day it has been discontinued.  My next one will be integrated with the GPS, have looked a lot at the Garmin Dezl. It is designed for larger trucks, but should work when towing for me.


----------



## Stratman50th

PaHunter said:


> I have been using a cheap 30 dollar camera from online, but I saw the other day it has been discontinued.  My next one will be integrated with the GPS, have looked a lot at the Garmin Dezl. It is designed for larger trucks, but should work when towing for me.


I've had a bunch of Garmin items and they've been good. The one I had really turned me off on them, once burned etc. That being said, I'll check out the reviews on the Dezl. Thanks!
I just looked in Amazon, is that a camera or a gps unit?


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## PaHunter

https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-dezlC...4204458&sprefix=garmin+gps+de,aps,151&sr=8-13


Stratman50th said:


> I've had a bunch of Garmin items and they've been good. The one I had really turned me off on them, once burned etc. That being said, I'll check out the reviews on the Dezl. Thanks!
> I just looked in Amazon, is that a camera or a gps unit?


----------



## Stratman50th

PaHunter said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-dezlC...4204458&sprefix=garmin+gps+de,aps,151&sr=8-13


Gotchya!


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## PaHunter

Stratman50th said:


> Gotchya!



I know it is a bit pricey and not for everyone. It is nice that you can customize to your length and height and weight so it knows where to route you.


----------



## Stratman50th

PaHunter said:


> I know it is a bit pricey and not for everyone. It is nice that you can customize to your length and height and weight so it knows where to route you.


The price isn't as much of an issue as placement. If I put it close enough to see I don't think the camera would pick up the road?


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Well - we did it!  As our 2006 HD Suburban nears a month of sitting on the lot of a local garage without readily available parts for a repair, we decided it was time to move on. 

The bad news - we've added a payment to the budget...  

The better news - the payment is basically the same as we spent on repairs on the Suburban this year...  

The best news - We can take the trailer on the road with far less concern about a roadside failure (ie - the brake lines blowing out while driving down the interstate last summer)…  

The worst news - I have to wait 4-5 months to hook it up and give it a try!


----------



## Teamubr

Nice truck! Sometimes the piece of mind that you won't break down are worth the money. And if the payment is what you were spending on repairs, better to put the money towards something that will last.

What year and motor did you get?

j


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Teamubr said:


> Nice truck! Sometimes the piece of mind that you won't break down are worth the money. And if the payment is what you were spending on repairs, better to put the money towards something that will last.
> 
> What year and motor did you get?
> 
> j



It's a 2019 with the Ecoboost and Max Tow Package.  It's not quite as beastly as the big block in the Suburban, but the Ecoboost should handle our trailer fine, and the extra 2' of wheelbase will be a big step up.  It will also become a daily driver when our daughter starts driving, so the difference in MPG's over the Suburban will be massive!  We have every expectation that this will be a 10+ year truck for us!


----------



## bama_ed

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Well - we did it!  As our 2006 HD Suburban nears a month of sitting on the lot of a local garage without readily available parts for a repair, we decided it was time to move on.
> 
> The bad news - we've added a payment to the budget...
> 
> The better news - the payment is basically the same as we spent on repairs on the Suburban this year...
> 
> The best news - We can take the trailer on the road with far less concern about a roadside failure (ie - the brake lines blowing out while driving down the interstate last summer)…
> 
> The worst news - I have to wait 4-5 months to hook it up and give it a try!
> 
> View attachment 456293View attachment 456295



Good looking truck, mickeyfan0805.

Bama Ed


----------



## Teamubr

mickeyfan0805 said:


> It's a 2019 with the Ecoboost and Max Tow Package.


One of my managers has the same truck and loves it. He uses it as a daily too. I rode with him out to one of our satellite hospitals and I was impressed with the turbo 6. He says he gets about 20mpg with it. 

I think you will really like it.

j


----------



## jbrostek

@Teamubr Thanks for the info on the tires.   After my 2016 trip of the blow outs on 3 year old DOT dated tries the rig came with, I actually ended up on LT LOAD E tires by chance for a good price.  So far they been holding up, but after I parked the rig for the winter I now see a tire low.  I need to go look into that to see if these now 3 year old tires are done as well.   My buddy maintains a hauler and stacker for a SM racer now and put Sailuns on the stacker.  Said it made a difference since he carriers 2 fully prepped SM, a golf cart, tools, spare, etc.   I think for the runoffs they squeezed in even more stuff for the week.

@mickeyfan0805 Congratulations on the new truck!  I was there in 2016 when my 2006 F350 kept asking for repair money regularly.  I bought a 2012 F350 DRW, what an upgrade but another payment.  In the end it was well worth it as it tows the trailer beautifully!


----------



## Teamubr

jbrostek said:


> @Teamubr Thanks for the info on the tires.  My buddy maintains a hauler and stacker for a SM racer now and put Sailuns on the stacker.  Said it made a difference since he carriers 2 fully prepped SM, a golf cart, tools, spare, etc.   I think for the runoffs they squeezed in even more stuff for the week.


@jbrostek 

I'm still very happy with the Sailuns after a full year. I know how you "squeeze" things in for Nationals/Runoffs. We had a 48 ft gooseneck enclosed hauler that we put 2 Mustangs in, along with tools, 16 mounted tires (in ceiling racks), 8 fuel jugs, generator, air compressor, welder and spares for suspension, shocks, drive shafts, brakes and more brakes and anything else that might break. That was for a regular race weekend. 

Going to Nationals, we had a spare engine, engine hoist, transmission and some body panels. We scaled the trailer on the way out to Miller, in Utah... 22,000 lbs. We ended up going with load range H tires for this one.



j


----------



## Makeminemusic

We are planning our first trip to Ft Wilderness campground in July 2020 with our 5th wheel.  3 adults and 3 grandkids.  I will drive the rig and my wife will drive another car with grandkids.  
Question - Will there be an extra parking fee for the car?  Hope to keep the truck connected and just use the car to get around WDW as needed.


----------



## PaHunter

Makeminemusic said:


> We are planning our first trip to Ft Wilderness campground in July 2020 with our 5th wheel.  3 adults and 3 grandkids.  I will drive the rig and my wife will drive another car with grandkids.
> Question - Will there be an extra parking fee for the car?  Hope to keep the truck connected and just use the car to get around WDW as needed.



Depending on the site you would have room for the car on site. Also depending on the site, you would not be able to stay hooked up as the site may not be long enough. Some of the loops are tight, and personally I tried to keep my truck as far from the road edge as possible. Never know the person coming in after you may never have driven something that big. Just how my mind works. 
The truck could also be taken out to the overflow lot at the front and left in a parking spot there. 
Disney transportation is very good and we have used it for almost everything. They even sent a bus just us to the Fort one night when I made the mistake of staying too late and missing all the boats.


----------



## Makeminemusic

PaHunter said:


> Depending on the site you would have room for the car on site. Also depending on the site, you would not be able to stay hooked up as the site may not be long enough. Some of the loops are tight, and personally I tried to keep my truck as far from the road edge as possible. Never know the person coming in after you may never have driven something that big. Just how my mind works.
> The truck could also be taken out to the overflow lot at the front and left in a parking spot there.
> Disney transportation is very good and we have used it for almost everything. They even sent a bus just us to the Fort one night when I made the mistake of staying too late and missing all the boats.



Thanks for the reply PaHunter,
We will be staying in the preferred loops  (100,200,300)  5th wheel is 36ft with slides on both sides.


----------



## PaHunter

Makeminemusic said:


> Thanks for the reply PaHunter,
> We will be staying in the preferred loops  (100,200,300)  5th wheel is 36ft with slides on both sides.



The 100 loop is tight. We stayed there had a 3500 DRW and a 25 foot travel trailer and had a fun time getting in to a site. 200 and 300 have a little more room but are still tight. Biggest issue is if people are parked toward the end of the site and you lose the trailing room for the trailer to track. Enjoy the stay.


----------



## jbrostek

The 100 loop is very tight, I have never been able to keep my truck in spot there. The 300 loop was hit or miss.  I could keep my 5th wheel and run in 1 site, but the rest left zero room to move around so I just took it down to overflow.  I was happy to have the extra space.


----------



## WeLovePluto

I was able to keep my truck in my site (111) pretty easily and would have had more room if i had a longer hose and sewer lines, but I couldn’t back all the way up to the back. 

With some arranging, we had a friend meet us from a different resort and they were able to park with us too. That would not have been a comfortable way to live, but it did fit. 

This is with a 30’ TT and F150


----------



## bama_ed

Makeminemusic,

Unsolicited advice from a nobody towing an 18-foot popup  .  But I have camped in the Preferred loops a lot.

300 is the tightest of the three loops in general.  It is the ONLY loop that has "git back" stripes painted on the site pavement where it meets the road.  See the yellow paint in this picture from Halloween 2017:





The loop road is windy, the pavement is not long enough for your two vehicles and the 5er (unless you want to be THAT GUY who tries to put the vehicles side by side and drops two wheels in the dirt), and if you get to your site on arrival day and your site is across from somebody taking liberties with the "git back" stripes, it could be tough backing in.  There are pedestals, trash stands, all sorts of obstacles to navigate backing in.

100 is next tightest (down at the far end from the entrance to the loop).  Some sites are long and some aren't.

200 is probably your best bet.  Still close, the least tight curves of the loop roads,

It is all very site-specific.  Some sites (like 125) are nearly 75 feet long paved (loved that one at Halloween2017).  Another like 201 is so short I had about 8 feet behind my popup to the split rail hard fence adjacent to the Comfort Station.  110 is probably the shortest and tightest to back into in 100.

The problem I see is that most Preferred sites aren't paved long enough to leave the truck hitched to the 5er and also pull the car in front of the truck.  Not unless you roll the trailer tires back onto the gravel tent pad at the back of the pavement then you might have a chance.  Preferred are only 12' wide paved generally so not wide enough for two side by side (Premiums generally are).

You should make a request (add it as a note/request on your reservation) that you want a LONG paved site if possible.  If you don't get one, I suggest you unhook the truck and park it up in the main Fort lot and park the daily drive vehicle at the campsite.

Now FWIW I've also stayed in 400 loop (a Premium loop right cross Big Pine Road from the 100/200 loops) and they were plenty wide and plenty close to the Fort boat dock.  For a few dollars more per night, you could get more space (if you can get placed in 400 that is).

It is what it is.  Flexibility is key.

Bama Ed

PS - Charging for parking in campsites is hit-and-miss.  I've not heard anyone recently say they've been charged.  But you'll need two car passes (one for each dashboard) and that might tip them off to charge you.  Who knows, by 2020, the enforcement may be completely different.


----------



## tiggerdad

I second 400 loop.  Closer than 300 and more room than 100 or 200 and very near just as close.  It will change the cost, but in my opinion, if you're concerned about room I'd choose 400.


----------



## jbrostek

400 loop is my fav for distance to the pup park as well (400 is a pet loop).  Last trip was without the pup, and we stayed in the 1000 loop.  I have to say, not bad though I would not pay the extra cost with the new pricing as the walk to the 400 loop wasn't all that bad from the pool to begin with.


----------



## InBassAngler

I've probably over looked some posts on this question, but we've considered on pulling our 5er down at one point and staying on property for a visit with the family.  We've got a 42' with 5 slides.  Question is, are there some sites that can accommodate that and how available are they?


----------



## Sjm9911

Probably plenty of sites that can accommodate you, availability for spots, thats any spots, need to be booked early. Others will chime in on what can fit tour 5th best. I know i had a site with my TT that would have had room for you. Tight, but very doable.


----------



## Stratman50th

InBassAngler said:


> I've probably over looked some posts on this question, but we've considered on pulling our 5er down at one point and staying on property for a visit with the family.  We've got a 42' with 5 slides.  Question is, are there some sites that can accommodate that and how available are they?


No problem on the number of sites but you'd probably be looking at a premium. Also, you wouldn't be able to leave your tow vehicle hooked up.


----------



## Teamubr

I also have a 42ft 5er and a longbed, crewcab, dually. 65 ft in total.

Yes, there are plenty of sites you/we will fit on. I would recommend a Premium site vs a Preferred or Full. The Preferred loops are fairly tight. There are sites where we fit on (although they are typically narrower), but navigating to the site is the problem. The Full loops feel more open, but I think the really long sites are limited.

The best strategy (it has worked for most of us with big rigs) is to book a Premium and then call down and have the length of your setup (truck and trailer) put on the reservation. If all else fails, the check in booths have a book with the dimensions of each site. In 2018, I arrived early (no site text yet) and pulled up to the drive through station. I asked for the longest site that was already available. She pulled out the book and found a great site in the 600 loop. 67 ft long, I fit fine.

Here is a link to my posts in 2018 with pics of the site. https://www.disboards.com/threads/s...toy-story-land-visiting.3691226/post-59700420

I also did a little scouting for PA Hunter. He has a similar 5er, but pulls it with a Class 7 (semi) truck. He needs a few more feet.* HERE* are pics of the sites in the 600 Loop where he (and we) would fit.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Sites are plenty long enough for a 42 ft trailer. 

Our is 43 and has six slides. We were in 1100 last trip down. The only issue we had was backing in Disney had paced recycle containers along the road where your truck needs to follow to hit the site. Not ideal, but we got in and then I got her straightened out.  With the new Semi, I am very confident we can hit a lot more spots as I have a better turning radius of 50 degrees in my front wheels. Our Crew Cab dually maxed out at 30 degrees. I can also get to a full 90 degrees from my trailer, something I could not do before with a pickup bed.


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> I also have a 42ft 5er and a longbed, crewcab, dually. 65 ft in total.
> 
> Yes, there are plenty of sites you/we will fit on. I would recommend a Premium site vs a Preferred or Full. The Preferred loops are fairly tight. There are sites where we fit on (although they are typically narrower), but navigating to the site is the problem. The Full loops feel more open, but I think the really long sites are limited.
> 
> The best strategy (it has worked for most of us with big rigs) is to book a Premium and then call down and have the length of your setup (truck and trailer) put on the reservation. If all else fails, the check in booths have a book with the dimensions of each site. In 2018, I arrived early (no site text yet) and pulled up to the drive through station. I asked for the longest site that was already available. She pulled out the book and found a great site in the 600 loop. 67 ft long, I fit fine.
> 
> Here is a link to my posts in 2018 with pics of the site. https://www.disboards.com/threads/s...toy-story-land-visiting.3691226/post-59700420
> 
> I also did a little scouting for PA Hunter. He has a similar 5er, but pulls it with a Class 7 (semi) truck. He needs a few more feet.* HERE* are pics of the sites in the 600 Loop where he (and we) would fit.
> 
> j


We're fans of the 800 loop, but to be honest that's the only loop we've been and only twice. And if memory serves (and it isn't all that reliable I admit) the first time we were in 834, and the second time 836. They call it Meadow Premium sites. My understanding is so they can charge more?


----------



## PaHunter

Stratman50th said:


> We're fans of the 800 loop, but to be honest that's the only loop we've been and only twice. And if memory serves (and it isn't all that reliable I admit) the first time we were in 834, and the second time 836. They call it Meadow Premium sites. My understanding is so they can charge more?



Yes they split the premiums last year and now you have some that cost more. Honestly, I believe 1400 is part of the Meadow Premium and I certainly would not pay more to be in those loops.


----------



## Stratman50th

PaHunter said:


> Yes they split the premiums last year and now you have some that cost more. Honestly, I believe 1400 is part of the Meadow Premium and I certainly would not pay more to be in those loops.


It's really nice not knowing any better on some things. We just deal with it and move on! LOL


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

These recent discussions have me thinking now...since we are about to pick up our new 40.5' 5er this weekend.  I'm currently assigned to a FHU site (had a 28' TT originally).  I'm confident in my ability to back into just about anything and having the truck in overflow isn't a deal breaker, but seeing other fellas that pull long rigs say they stay premium exclusively gives me pause.  Seeking advice if I bite the bullet and upgrade to premium?


----------



## Stratman50th

Part-Time Paradise said:


> These recent discussions have me thinking now...since we are about to pick up our new 40.5' 5er this weekend.  I'm currently assigned to a FHU site (had a 28' TT originally).  I'm confident in my ability to back into just about anything and having the truck in overflow isn't a deal breaker, but seeing other fellas that pull long rigs say they stay premium exclusively gives me pause.  Seeking advice if I bite the bullet and upgrade to premium?


I always pick premium for the extra space. The biggest problem for me is if someone parks right next to the road in the site across from me. Mine doesn't bend in the middle.


----------



## Teamubr

PTP,

When I was down in September, we were staying with our friends in their MH. We were in the 2100 loop, a Full loop now. I took the cart and looped through the 1600-1900 loops looking to see how many I could fit on (pre-planning to see if I could save some money on a reservation). My 5er is 42 ft and the truck, another 23.

There are definitely individual Full sites we will fit on. Overall, the Full loops are as easy to navigate as some of the Premiums. And definitely easier to get around than the Preferred (100-300) The issue with some is the sites are narrower. 12 ft on average vs 18 for the Premiums. They also have the rock/sand "tent" pad that impacts the amount of pavement.

If you are comfortable backing into some tighter spots and have a good handle on how much road you need to get around corners, you should be ok. I would definitely have your overall length added to your reservation. I call down and have a note added, even with a Premium reservation. There are less long Full sites, but there are some.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Thanks @Stratman50th.  



Teamubr said:


> The issue with some is the sites are narrower. 12 ft on average vs 18 for the Premiums. They also have the rock/sand "tent" pad that impacts the amount of pavement.



Thanks. With pulling my cargo trailer for many years, I feel pretty good on where I can shove a long 5er/gooseneck, but there is such a variation on sites.  Your reconnaissance reports are helpful.

Perhaps it comes down to $200 extra for 18' and having the truck parked on the site v save money and the possibility have a small husband/wife...driver/spotter fight as it takes me a while to squeeze my rig into a smaller site.

Thanks


----------



## Sjm9911

Sometimes backing up is just a mind set also. I put my TT on the small tent pop up sight in 2 seconds. Avoided trees, garbage cans and everything else. When i moved sites and was rushing took 10 tryes to back up into a steight site. Lol. After screwing up the first time i let the 2nd guessing get the better of me. So if you mind is right, it will not be a problem.


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> and the possibility have a small husband/wife...driver/spotter fight


One other comment about Full sites. Don't forget the 2100 loop. It use to be cabins. I really liked the loop when we were there in September. It feels very open and would be very easy to navigate around.

Here was our loop and site. 2108. The first pic is walking in from the loop entrance. Our friends MH is 37 ft. They probably could have gone back another 5 ft or so, but didn't need to.











Ahhh. The DH/DW/spotter discussions...

I have tried all of the options to make this work. Verbal (epic fail- go "that" way?!?, or "move right"- my "right" or yours), hand signals (beyond fail, would stand where I couldn't see them in my mirrors), walkie talkies (see verbal). We finally settled on DW stays in the truck. I get out and do a thorough walk around. DS, if he is with us, gets out and just yells if I'm about to hit something (usually high tree branches I can't see in my mirrors)

I think the biggest problem is having someone help that has never done it. They have no point of reference to what I can see (or not) and then how to communicate what they see. We just gave up trying. That saves a lot of stress.

j


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> Ahhh. The DH/DW/spotter discussions...
> 
> I have tried all of the options to make this work. Verbal (epic fail- go "that" way?!?, or "move right"- my "right" or yours), hand signals (beyond fail, would stand where I couldn't see them in my mirrors), walkie talkies (see verbal). We finally settled on DW stays in the truck. I get out and do a thorough walk around. DS, if he is with us, gets out and just yells if I'm about to hit something (usually high tree branches I can't see in my mirrors)
> 
> I think the biggest problem is having someone help that has never done it. They have no point of reference to what I can see (or not) and then how to communicate what they see. We just gave up trying. That saves a lot of stress.
> 
> j


We got this one figured out, but not without some gnashing of teeth and blown blood vessels... Ok, and some yelling...
First we use walkie talkies. Lots of folks say they use cell phones. I have been in several places where there was no signal- cell phones useless.
The communication part. We got the words figured out long ago.. "turn this way" doesn't work for us. We (not me) have a tendency to drag feet on departure the result being getting in after dark more than once. At our former residence the bus parking was to the side of the actual driveway. It didn't run the full length having an angle in at the front. (It was originally for my daughter's Silverado, not 45' of coach). The only way our coach would fit was to kind of parallel park it. The rear hung over the landscaping timbers and the front wheels just made it in after the angled entrance. After several issues of less than illuminating instructions I made her come back and get into the driver's seat. "Ok, look into the mirrors.... what do you see?" "Nothing". "Exactly! let's be a little more specific in our directions please". Once we got the driveway figured out there really wasn't anyplace we can't park in given enough room. Actually haven't had a problem since then. In fact, the wife is the only one I'll let spot for me now.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Everyone has the fun, even if it someone familiar.  The point of having the spotter sit in the truck for a second is a good one.

DW and I usually have no problems.  Verbal is better because I can't get standardized signals going. 

What I don't care for is when a RV park escorts me to the site and then attempts to back me in and gets offended when DW hops out to take over.


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> What I don't care for is when a RV park escorts me to the site and then attempts to back me in and gets offended when DW hops out to take over.


This is the best. 

I have a funny story about this one. 

We were camping at Camping on the Gulf in Destin. We had reserved a "Beach Front" site. If you haven't been to Camp Gulf, the beach front sites are VERY narrow. They used to only allow slides on the street side OR an awning on the curb side. Not both. Here is a pic. The gap in the middle between the Class A and the MH is an open site.



They also had (have? it's been a long time since we were there) a large number of workcampers. Some direct you to your site in a golf cart and assist with backing into the narrow sites. Workcampers are generally very helpful, because they are also RV owners. One trip I had our 2nd camper, a 33ft TT, so actually 36 ft long, with a huge tail swing on it. The workcamper pulls up and puts his golf cart behind the trailer and off to a corner and starts to direct me in. I get out and look around first. It was tight (narrow lanes , in addition to really narrow sites) and I ask him to move the golf cart because the tail swing will hit the cart. He brushes it off. I ask again, and then he gets condescending about it. I knew it would be close, but that the big bumper on the trailer would likely get it. After the 3rd denied request, I back into the site. Got it pretty squared up and settled. The workcamper then sees the windshield on the cart broken and the window frame torn off the front of the cart on one side. He then starts yelling at me for hitting his cart. 

My DW walks up to him and says you had 3 chances to move it and refused. Sounds like you have some explaining to do to your boss. 

Luckily my trailer had zero damage. It had a pretty strong boxed steel bumper that could take a pretty solid hit. 

Funny, but I never heard anything else about it the rest of the week.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> My DW walks up to him and says you had 3 chances to move it and refused.



That's quite a story. I hope he decided to walk the few steps to move the cart next time


----------



## tiggerdad

DW and x2 DDs know their roles when it comes to backing in. 

Sit still

Make not a single sound

Make sure your head is not blocking view of the passenger mirror

Do not even think about touching the door handle to exit the vehicle until I give the all clear


This seems to be the safest way we have found to handle this situation.


----------



## sirenia88

@tiggerdad   MY DD knows not to make a sound or hop out with mom while dad is backing in.  Now my wife will know where and where not to walk.   When we got the new trailer in 2018, it came prewired for a Furrion camera.   Now when my DW decides to walk behind the trailer, I can see her in the 5 inch screen. Also it works well for hand signals.   Last year during one of the last back ins of the season, we had a tight maneuver.  It actually required another person to help me get the sight line to back it in due to a tight roads, people and a hard cut.  Worst part, there was a much flatter and wider spot just down the lane in which I could have swung the trailer in within a shot maybe 2.  However I got the trailer in.  The last trip of the season was to DC.  We had a mid evening arrival.  I think it was around 7PM.  It was dark out I got the trailer in 3 shots since I didn't like the look for the first shot and my second shot was over corrected.  So I said the next shot is going to be the final.  It was.  I was happy and the wife was happy. However, if I keep up these night time arrivals, I am thinking about getting a couple of portable lights to light up the approach so I can see where the trailer is going and tracking plus give a little extra insurance for guiding in.  I hate nights were I cannot see the trees, tables or even fire rings in the area of the back up.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Those back up cameras should have a 2 way radio built in.


----------



## PaHunter

sirenia88 said:


> @tiggerdad   MY DD knows not to make a sound or hop out with mom while dad is backing in.  Now my wife will know where and where not to walk.   When we got the new trailer in 2018, it came prewired for a Furrion camera.   Now when my DW decides to walk behind the trailer, I can see her in the 5 inch screen. Also it works well for hand signals.   Last year during one of the last back ins of the season, we had a tight maneuver.  It actually required another person to help me get the sight line to back it in due to a tight roads, people and a hard cut.  Worst part, there was a much flatter and wider spot just down the lane in which I could have swung the trailer in within a shot maybe 2.  However I got the trailer in.  The last trip of the season was to DC.  We had a mid evening arrival.  I think it was around 7PM.  It was dark out I got the trailer in 3 shots since I didn't like the look for the first shot and my second shot was over corrected.  So I said the next shot is going to be the final.  It was.  I was happy and the wife was happy. However, if I keep up these night time arrivals, I am thinking about getting a couple of portable lights to light up the approach so I can see where the trailer is going and tracking plus give a little extra insurance for guiding in.  I hate nights were I cannot see the trees, tables or even fire rings in the area of the back up.



A friend of our had a Spacecraft Trailer built, and had lights put all the way around the top, bright LED's so if they arrived at night they can see. Having backed ours in at night, have had that same thought, need some area lighting.


----------



## jbrostek

I have LED lights on the back of the truck, and I think the only mod I might make is if the LED strips dont go all the way down the side of the RV would be to add ones near the rear axles and tail.  After that I know melissa can help me back in.  

Thanks to racing, I have taught melissa to describe things in the standpoint of the driver.  So if I need to shift the trailer she will tell me "the tail needs to turn drivers right" or "the wheels need to move drivers left".  This is after we talk about where I want the trailer to land.

We have 177 foot driveway, and the only time I went off the pavement was when I didn't have her help and it was getting dark.  That was when I thought about the new LED light strips and just a few sections in the right place down low to show where you are at would be perfect.


----------



## tigger92662

The only 1 time the wife and kids yelled was when they saw a spider on the back up camera screen. 
Couldn'ta been more then a 1/2" long, but in fish eye lens of back up camera, it took up the whole screen. LOL


----------



## tigger92662

jbrostek said:


> Thanks to racing, I have taught melissa to describe things in the standpoint of the driver.


OK, I missed that one, what kinda racing?


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Picked up the new rig yesterday.  Pulls pretty well.  Taking it for a shakedown this weekend.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Part-Time Paradise said:


> Picked up the new rig yesterday.  Pulls pretty well.  Taking it for a shakedown this weekend.



Looks great!  

'Shakedown this weekend!'  Boy am I jealous...


----------



## Stratman50th

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Looks great!
> 
> 'Shakedown this weekend!'  Boy am I jealous...
> 
> View attachment 465027


I so know this feeling, but no more! I am done with the white stuff!
This was from about four years ago and it was the final push to get me to move south...


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Well, it isn't exactly going to be beach weather this weekend.  Lows are dipping into single digits overnight, but everyone loves camping enough to give it a go


----------



## jbrostek

tigger92662 said:


> OK, I missed that one, what kinda racing?



I race with DC Region SCCA.  Improved Touring or Production classes, when I don't race I work as a safety official (EV)


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Stratman50th said:


> I so know this feeling, but no more! I am done with the white stuff!
> This was from about four years ago and it was the final push to get me to move south...



Yeah - I would if I could.  At the moment, work wins the day and keeps me where I am.  I dream of a retirement including heading south in a FW just after Christmas and not returning until Easter.  DW is not so keen.  Given that it's still a good 20 years out - who knows!  For now, nothing to do but suck it up!


----------



## tigger92662

2goofycampers said:


> Those back up cameras should have a 2 way radio built in.


Ours has a microphone, problem with the motorhome is, it sits right above the diesel engine and exhaust. Pretty much rendering it totally useless


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Looks great!
> 
> 'Shakedown this weekend!'  Boy am I jealous...



Not going to say you jinxed me, but I've woken up to sleet and freezing rain and highs and lows below freezing through TUE.  I died a little inside when I suggested to DW that we postpone our shakedown trip until President's Day.  She reluctantly agreed.  

If the roads thaw like the weatherman predicts (so accurate these days...) we're going to go to the storage lot and move in all our RV junk that is still sitting in the garage from the old trailer.  Then go to WM to find the new shelving and other accouterments we need to make the new rig our home away from home.  So at least I'll be in the camper?


----------



## jbrostek

Winter can be so unpredictable for camping.  The traditional FW trip I have had to dig out the RV from a 14" snowfall, left in driving rain and sleet (non accumulating), And January 2014 it was 6F when I left VA heading south.  Then last weekend it was 68F and we went on a 3 mile walk after spending saturday buying our new rig at the RV show.   We are scheduled to pick it up next weekend and this weekend they are calling for snow while we work to box up most of the stuff and unload the old unit.


----------



## Stratman50th

jbrostek said:


> Winter can be so unpredictable for camping.  The traditional FW trip I have had to dig out the RV from a 14" snowfall, left in driving rain and sleet (non accumulating), And January 2014 it was 6F when I left VA heading south.  Then last weekend it was 68F and we went on a 3 mile walk after spending saturday buying our new rig at the RV show.   We are scheduled to pick it up next weekend and this weekend they are calling for snow while we work to box up most of the stuff and unload the old unit.


Where are you in VA?
In January 2014 we were heading back to MD from Florida. What a letdown that was!


----------



## jbrostek

Stratman50th said:


> Where are you in VA?
> In January 2014 we were heading back to MD from Florida. What a letdown that was!



At the time Manassas, and the rig was stored in Chantilly near the cadillac dealer.  We now live in Haymarket/Gainesville a short walk from Greenville Farm Family Campground with enough land and no HOA stopping us from storing the rig at home.

I bet that was a fosty let down.  I actually blew out an injector near Rocky Mount, NC and got to spend a few 9F days at the local KOA while Ford fixed the truck.  Its when I found out that my Sanibel faired pretty well as long as you had the tank heaters and heat running.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

jbrostek said:


> Winter can be so unpredictable for camping.



And how.  Our spring break trip last year was 40s, windy, and miserable through KS, OK, and TX until we got down San Antonio.  

My camping addiction is ready for years when my job is more flexible or retirement when we can snowbird in the SW or SE.


----------



## jbrostek

I work in technology but always seem to find the jobs that require me to be in the office. One day I will find a 90-100% telework job and can spend a summer when my wife (teacher) is on break and just travel the country.  She knows my goal for retirement is to spend a couple years on the road visiting places.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Right on jbrostek.  I have an Alaska RV trip in my dream planning folder.  I want to get the kids up there for a summer before they leave the house for good.


----------



## Stratman50th

jbrostek said:


> I work in technology but always seem to find the jobs that require me to be in the office. One day I will find a 90-100% telework job and can spend a summer when my wife (teacher) is on break and just travel the country.  She knows my goal for retirement is to spend a couple years on the road visiting places.


I've been in IT for almost 18 years now. For the last 5 I've been completely web based. I consider myself very lucky! It has allowed us to make our move from Maryland to Florida. Not retired yet but at least we've changed our geography to our retirement jumping off point. We are still in the take off for travel days and stay a week phase. I have worked from our home on wheels for 3 months while the house here was being finished so if I want to go an a road trip I can. That being said it's really no fun to be stuck in the coach working while my wife heads off to the pool! Best of luck to you and your goal!


----------



## 2goofycampers

Please try to keep to the subject of truck and towing. The Camping Community Board is better for chit chat and getting to know each other better. 

Thanks Campers.


----------



## Makeminemusic

PaHunter said:


> The 100 loop is tight. We stayed there had a 3500 DRW and a 25 foot travel trailer and had a fun time getting in to a site. 200 and 300 have a little more room but are still tight. Biggest issue is if people are parked toward the end of the site and you lose the trailing room for the trailer to track. Enjoy the stay.


Thanks to all for the kind posts!  Getting excited for the trip (except the weather in July)


----------



## jbrostek

One good thing about the newer diesels.  We just traded up on our 5er going from the Sanibel 3600 with a GVWR of 15500, to our GD Solitude 380FL with a GVWR of 16800.



The old unit was empty for the trip down, and the new one was empty for the trip home and they towed the same in my opinion.  As one would probably expect and knowing that my max is 21500 and nowhere near it even if I loaded up the trailer more is a good cushion for me.  

If I still had my 2006 6.0 I would be upgraded no matter if I had a SRW or DRW as they max at at 15400 and 15600 respectively.  After 4 years, I can say I do not miss my old truck at all other then it was paid off (which the 2012 will be shortly.)


----------



## Paulaparm

We are pulling our 38ft. 5th wheel down next Feb. for 2 weeks. It will be our first time at FW. We have reserved a preferred site, but I am unsure if there is a certain loop we should request? I'm thinking we might want to be towards the front of the park, for easier access to the bus (not the inner loop). We will most likely bring our bikes to ride around the campground to get to the bus stops. 
Any advice on a loop to request or any advice at all? Anything would be appreciated. 
Also, are the sites easy to back into? We are new to the 5th wheel and aren't real adept at this yet 
Thanks!


----------



## Teamubr

Paulaparm said:


> It will be our first time at FW. We have reserved a preferred site. I'm thinking we might want to be towards the front of the park.
> 
> Any advice on a loop to request or any advice at all? Anything would be appreciated.
> 
> Also, are the sites easy to back into? We are new to the 5th wheel and aren't real adept at this yet




You've come to the right place. Preferred sites are my favorite. They are loops 100, 200 and 300. All are close to "The Settlement" with the boat dock to MK and the Bay Lake resorts (WL and Contemp), Trails End restaurant, Hoop-D-Doo and one of the Trading Posts. Unfortunately, if you want to be close "to the front", Preferred are about as far from the front (Outpost) as you can be. In reality, none of the camping loops are "close" to the Outpost.

Personally, I would request Loop 100. It is the closest to The Settlement, but the 200 loop is right next door. The Preferred loops are a little tight for negotiating a HUGE camper, but you should be ok at 38 ft. Take your time and watch your mirrors, you'll be fine.

One thing to remember, if you aren't sure you can get backed into your assigned site. Take a look around for an empty one in the loop you think is easier. Call (or go up to the front gate (Outpost) and ask to be switched. Like any campground, some sites are easier than others to back into. This certainly applies to the Preferred sites. It may be a trash cans, an ill placed street light or the neighbor's truck across the street. Don't feel locked in to the "assigned" site if you don't think you can get it.

Hopefully you fall in love with the Fort and the Preferred sites. Unfortunately, I sized out with the new 5er (42 ft and a 23 ft truck). 65 ft is a little much for the most seasoned driver to wind around the preferred loops. (Although I have seen it done). I stick to the Premium sites now.

Here's a map of the Fort. The blue loops at the top are the Preferred loops. The entrance (front) to the Fort and the Outpost with the bus stop to the parks (except MK) is at the bottom.






j


----------



## Paulaparm

Teamubr,
Thanks for the welcome and your advice! Would you think we would be better off changing to a Premium site? (I want all to go as smoothly as possible  )


----------



## Teamubr

Paulaparm said:


> Would you think we would be better off changing to a Premium site?


Preferred sites are narrower (12ft on average vs 18ft). The length of sites varies no matter what category. I really like the location of the Preferred sites, especially Loop 100. It is an easy walk to the boat dock, the Settlement Trading Post and Trails End. The Settlement bus stop (internal bus that takes you throughout the Fort) is an easy walk. There are a few Premium (Premium "Meadows" now) loops that are an easy walk to the "Meadows" area with the swimming pool, 2nd trading post and the campfire (singalong and movies). There really isn't much near "the front" of the Fort except the Outpost registration building and the bus depot to the parks and Disney Springs. The closest camping loops are still a 10 minute walk to the Outpost. 
If you are pretty concerned about being able to get backed into a Preferred site, I would see if a Premium (or Premium Meadows) site is available. If you would like to be close to food, shopping and transportation, I'd stick with the Preferred. 

j


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## Paulaparm

Teamubr said:


> Preferred sites are narrower (12ft on average vs 18ft). The length of sites varies no matter what category. I really like the location of the Preferred sites, especially Loop 100. It is an easy walk to the boat dock, the Settlement Trading Post and Trails End. The Settlement bus stop (internal bus that takes you throughout the Fort) is an easy walk. There are a few Premium (Premium "Meadows" now) loops that are an easy walk to the "Meadows" area with the swimming pool, 2nd trading post and the campfire (singalong and movies). There really isn't much near "the front" of the Fort except the Outpost registration building and the bus depot to the parks and Disney Springs. The closest camping loops are still a 10 minute walk to the Outpost.
> If you are pretty concerned about being able to get backed into a Preferred site, I would see if a Premium (or Premium Meadows) site is available. If you would like to be close to food, shopping and transportation, I'd stick with the Preferred.
> 
> j


Thanks again for your input! I just messaged our TA and asked her to upgrade us to Premium 
We don't care too much about being close to the Trading Post, Trails end, etc.  We are hoping to be able to get around on our bikes instead of relying on internal buses though


----------



## Teamubr

Paulaparm said:


> We don't care too much about being close to the Trading Post, Trails end, etc.  We are hoping to be able to get around on our bikes instead of relying on internal buses though


Go for a Premium Meadows site then. They are the most central loops at the Fort. It is a new category this year, but most of the loops in the middle of things are the new, pricier, category. 

j


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## tigger92662

@Paulaparm If you have the chance, check out the app  Fort Fiends. It gives a pretty good evaluation of the sites.

If you've followed along, you know by now we LOVE trip reports. 

So if you have the time, even if it's after you get home, please regale us with you're exploits. 

1st and foremost, enjoy The Fort and it's, well everything! Hopefully you have planned a few days to just relax and take it all in


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> Go for a Premium Meadows site then. They are the most central loops at the Fort. It is a new category this year, but most of the loops in the middle of things are the new, pricier, category.
> 
> j


Big fan of the premium meadow sites. Premium because we fit. Meadow not because we use the trading post or that pool, we use the quiet pool by the cabins. We like it because it's almost right in the middle between the marina and the main entrance.


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## jaredjohn4

I prefer the premium sites just for the outside room to relax.  We even used them when I was pulling a popup.
I just got back with my camper from eTrailer in St. Louis this week.  Didn't beat the snow out of town.  It took 5 1/2 hours to get there, but the snow came in Wednesday and it took a little over 8 hours to get home.  I had the cruise control set at 35 for about 50 miles and never got passed.  Good thing I just put new tires on the truck and the camper.  I had the drum brakes on my 38 foot Keystone Cougar 326RBS 5th wheel replaced with hydraulic disc brakes.  It feels a lot better when I step on the brakes now.  The camper is just about ready for my end of March spring break trip to the Fort.  It took 3 days for the install because if eTrailer doesn't have a film of an install, they film it and do the install for free.  So in about a month I'll be able to watch online all the work they did.


----------



## Teamubr

I didn't know eTrailer did installations too. I've been there many times. Our race shop was less than 10 minutes from there. 

Glad you made it home safe and sound. The eTrailer area got more snow than I did on my side of the metro area. 

Let me know if you think the disc brakes were worth the $$. I need to replace the brakes on my camper this year, but the $1400 is a lot to bite off. Did you get THIS electric over hydraulic kit? 

j


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## jaredjohn4

Yes, Wentzville got the most of the snow, but just wasn't good heading back towards Chicago.  Got the electric over hydraulic kit.  Yes it is pricey.  Close to $2,000 out the door with a cheap hotel.  I thought them doing the install was the best choice since it is cold here and I'm not sure who I would trust to get it set up right.  They added in a couple more lines during the install and they had all the parts there.  Once I hooked on the tech rode with me as we changed the controller setting on my Ram until they worked great.  I'll know more after my spring break trip.  They have about 4 trailer sized bays on the back side of the building, 4 truck sized on the end of the building, and I'm not sure how big the ones are on the front.  There was about 8 campers parked out back.


----------



## Teamubr

jaredjohn4 said:


> They have about 4 trailer sized bays on the back side of the building, 4 truck sized on the end of the building, and I'm not sure how big the ones are on the front.  There was about 8 campers parked out back.


I had never been around back. I thought the ones out front and on the side were just shipping/receiving.

Good to know. I have always done my own work. I have built race cars most of my life and figured a trailer can't be that hard.  As I get older, I get more likely to pay someone else to do it.

j


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## jaredjohn4

I got the idea from watching a video blog from Keep Your Dreams Alive.  




I really liked the idea of oil instead of grease for the bearings, but they don’t do that on my 5300 lb axles.  I ended up with:
Qty   Description
---   ----------------------------------------------------------   -------   -------
4     8-213-5UC1  Hub 6 On 5.5 5.2k W/bearings Races And Seal                  4 - $307.64
4    GS-2250DL   Grease Seal 3.376odx2.250id 22333vb                          4-$17.16
2     K2R526D  Kodiak Kit - 12 Rotor - 6on5-1/2 - Dac - 5.2k To 6k          2 -$576
1     Tuson Rv Brakes Actulink Actuator - Disc Brakes - 1,600 Psi      1-335ACT-1600
1     Kodiak Brake Line Kit - Tandem Axle - 20             1 -20TA-BLKIT
And like I said, the full install of each part should be online at e-Trailer in about a month.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

The rig shakedown was a month in the making between weather and work, but we finally got her out for a short trip.

We love the trailer, but we're a little disappointed with the whole RV industry.  So many nail/staple holes with horrible filler jobs.  The filler either doesn't match the area or it looks like they applied it with a sausage tied to their fingers.  So many little things that you'd think someone would catch between the manufacturer and the dealer.  Loose screws, unprogrammed LCI GC 3.0, stickers left all over everything that the installer is supposed to remove, etc.

Nothing that I've found hurts the functionality nor anything in the long haul.  Though I'm not sure a rookie RVer could figure out all these problems like we did.  Just a good reminder that we look like bags of money instead of people to most of these company.

Complaints complete, here's the good stuff!



First meal, homemade pizza.  They tried really hard to NOT pose nice for the shot.


A nice spot in Weston Bend SP near Weston, MO.  This shot was before I realized the LCI GC 3.0 was not calibrated.  Hence the trailer leaning to the front left.


The right side of the rig.  The ground was a soupy mess from all the melted snow, but the kids still enjoyed riding their bikes while DW and I worked on organizing, and installing some small projects:  bed rails for the bunks, hung some stuff in the basement, installed a handled on the screen door (ran my drill through one of the screen panels by mistake...DOH!...more to fix for the next time).


Happy (and tired) campers in our recliners after a long day working on the rig.

Now we need to figure out the personality of everything so we're ready for FW this June!

Jack


----------



## chartle

Part-Time Paradise said:


> The rig shakedown was a month in the making between weather and work, but we finally got her out for a short trip.



I don't see any pics.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

chartle said:


> I don't see any pics.



Take 2.  Tried linking the photos, but my service has been dorking with permissions lately.


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## jbrostek

@Part-Time Paradise Great looking rig!  We just got a GD 380FL and looking forward to the same.  We noticed stuff like that too and really I think its the dealer.  My last rig I bought from a different dealer and they took the time to sort out all those things.  Though the filler was something I took up with the manufacturer and because I am a little OCD I got some proper matching color caulking and fixed them myself.  

Happy Camping ahead!  Our first outings is end of March, but many weekends after that between the race track and planned outtings to places like Luray Caverns and Hershey.


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## SouthAlabama5er

I've been looking for a new tow rig, came across the beauty. One day hopefully


----------



## Teamubr

How is the setup inside? With the 2nd door, I'm thinking REALLY nice Crewcab.

j


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## jbrostek

Peterbilt 335 or 337 custom cab?

https://schwalbetrucks.com/
Found some western hauler conversions too.


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## rideswithchrist

! So...
we are buying a 21-23' hybrid, which will be around 5K gross and towing with a Suburban (loaded with 2 adults and 4 skinny kids until 13). 
We want to get a weight distribution hitch to help with any sway- but I don't want to spend $500 OR have to unhook to back up because we will forget and break something. 

Best suggestions and why would I not go with the chain link type?


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## Teamubr

Michelle,

Chain or trunion bar type WD hitches both work fine and are about the same as far as setup/removal. There are 2 kinds of sway controls that go along with the hitch. The cheaper type friction bar that should be loosened (or removed) when backing and the type that has a friction link at the end of the weight bars. That type lets you backup without removing or loosening anything. The non-removable setups are a little more expensive, but are still well under $500 for a rig your size. You get hitches (and weight bars) based on the tongue weight of the trailer. 

Here is a decent set that should be good for a 5,000 lb trailer. It is $363 with free shipping.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA94-00-0600.html



j


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## rideswithchrist

Well, the camper came with a hitch! It does have the chains, and no sway bar but it towed better than we expected. 
Except it is a brick. What a shocker after towing popups around. We averaged 9mpg with our Suburban.


----------



## rideswithchrist

How many miles is "too many" on a tow vehicle? 
Our Suburban just rolled over 205K and I had planned on keeping it until 300K- BUT I am reconsidering now that we are towing a 5,000 pound camper.


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## PaHunter

rideswithchrist said:


> How many miles is "too many" on a tow vehicle?
> Our Suburban just rolled over 205K and I had planned on keeping it until 300K- BUT I am reconsidering now that we are towing a 5,000 pound camper.



That all depends on the vehicle, has it been taken care of has the transmission been taken care of. I know some people here are also over 200k on their vehicles. Our tow vehicle is at 655,000 miles. So ultimately only you and hubby can decide how many is too many.


----------



## rideswithchrist

PaHunter said:


> That all depends on the vehicle, has it been taken care of has the transmission been taken care of. I know some people here are also over 200k on their vehicles. Our tow vehicle is at 655,000 miles. So ultimately only you and hubby can decide how many is too many.



Chris, what do you tow with? 
I know Ed has over 200K on his Suburban too, so I think with more maintenance we can keep ours. I like my Burb and don't want to replace it until we have to. (I don't like the chipping paint though).


----------



## PaHunter

rideswithchrist said:


> Chris, what do you tow with?
> I know Ed has over 200K on his Suburban too, so I think with more maintenance we can keep ours. I like my Burb and don't want to replace it until we have to. (I don't like the chipping paint though).



We tow with the Volvo Semi truck in our picture. Trucks like this have a lifespan of 1 million miles. We have not put that many on it, maybe 10k. The rest of those miles were from when it was a working truck. We have been replacing parts that need it as we can. Our door and one side panel need to be replaced. Garage just quoted me nearly 7k for the replacement. I told DW we will source parts from a salvage yard and get it repainted to match.


----------



## sirenia88

rideswithchrist said:


> ! So...
> we are buying a 21-23' hybrid, which will be around 5K gross and towing with a Suburban (loaded with 2 adults and 4 skinny kids until 13).
> We want to get a weight distribution hitch to help with any sway- but I don't want to spend $500 OR have to unhook to back up because we will forget and break something.
> 
> Best suggestions and why would I not go with the chain link type?



Congrats on the trailer. WDH set ups can be tricky. I had a Reese Pro series WDH with Anti Sway for a number of years. It was recommended to us by the sales rep during our purchase. I thought it was a headache to use. Every time I had to back into a space, I had to unhook the A/S off and sometimes the bars themselves. When we traded in our previous trailer and getting ready for the purchase of the current trailer, I wanted something different. The one sales rep we worked with at the dealer wanted us to keep our old set up saying it was good enough. I laughed and passed on it. Our original sales rep was back with us (He was off the day we came in for another walk through and made the decision to purchase.) he made several suggestions. One of them was a brand and model that impressed me at an RV show in which they had a booth there, Blue Ox Sway Pro. The new trailer needed 1500# rated spring bars. Super simple for hook up. Works great for back ups. Never had an issue with sway due to the hitch. trailer weight balancing was another story that was easily fixed. Our price was fairly OK for a dealership. I want to say it was around $850 installed with tax. Set up took about 40 minutes from start to finish in which I watched and then trained on using the system. I know it is more money than other brands but I have not had any bad experiences with the product given the fact I tow a 36 foot, 9,500 pound trailer that is about 11 1/2 feet high.

So I generally suggest the Blue Ox product as a good choice for towing. If you look around you will probably find one used for about the half the cost of new. The crazy part is I sold my old Reese WDH with A/S for 200 locally. So it really only cost me around $600 to upgrade my hitch set up. Now on the other hand, my parents tow a 17 foot, 3500 pound Hybrid trailer with a 2008 Ford Explorer powered by a V8 with 6 speed auto and tow package. My father doesn't run any sway control on the trailer. He has dealt with some weather and a number of tractor trailers without an issue. He said the trailer just tracks true and steady. The vehicle has plenty of power for climbing hills and the like. Since the trailer is 3,500 pounds he tows with a 2 inch drop 2 inch ball and that's it. I think it is because the trailer is a fairly low trailer to begin with. The Explorer is punching a pretty large hole in the air before it gets to the trailer. Hence the nice and easy towing characteristics of the trailer. Plus his Explorer gets good fuel mileage with the trailer in tow. I have seen them get in the 12-14 MPG on some trips. 

Fuel Mileage I tend to stick with a 8 MPG estimate for my truck and trailer combos. My previous trailer (30' ,6000 pounds) and truck (F250) got around 8-9 MPG on some trips and depending the time of year. In one trip we pulled around 10 MPG which I think all my calculations were off but they were not.  My current truck and trailer gets around 7.5-8.5 MPG, road conditions, traffic, etc. However I did see a 9.5 MPG return on one of my last trips of the year in 2019. The truck and the trailer were just really nice and I had an easy going ride for most of the way. Little traffic few stop and go's. I expected a larger drop with the new trailer being taller, longer and heavier. It was not that far off from the old one. Back to the main point of all this, if you route plan, figure 8 MPG for most of the trip. If you get lucky and get better mileage, great. If mileage tanks you have planned for that occurrence. 

Good luck.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

rideswithchrist said:


> How many miles is "too many" on a tow vehicle?
> Our Suburban just rolled over 205K and I had planned on keeping it until 300K- BUT I am reconsidering now that we are towing a 5,000 pound camper.



I agree with Christ - a lot has to do with the health of the vehicle itself.  

For us, as many on here know, we finally bit the bullet and ditched our Suburban just recently.  It was an '06 with the big block engine and only 116,000 miles on it.  From a mechanical perspective, the engine likely had another 150,000 miles on it.  The problem was that after 15 years in the northern salt-riddled winters, the rust was playing havoc with everything else.  It stranded us 2x last year (both related to underbody corrosion), and we'd spent over $7,000 in repairs in 1 year!  The end result was that we were reluctant to take it anywhere beyond the local region because we weren't sure the Suburban could/would handle it.  

If you feel comfortable with the reliability and safety of your Suburban, stick with it.  If/when you start planning your camping around what you believe your Suburban can handle, however, that's when it might be time to hang it up!


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

Well I figured I'd add it the towing page, we traded our 16 3500 Silverado for this 2020 F450 Lariat with the new 10 speedtransmission. Found a new used B&W fifthwheel hitch with the Ford pucks on Facebook market place this past weekend. Yesterday I did the adjustment to the hitch and made a short trip down to Dauphin Island with the camper and I was impressed with how well it did. I didn't think to get a picture.


Drove from Mobile, Al to Huntsville, Al going up I did the math on mileage, 406 miles used 26 gallons came out around 15.5 mpg run between 75 and 85 mph, (I65 has som long empty stretches)


----------



## Teamubr

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Drove from Mobile, Al to Huntsville, Al going up I did the math on mileage, 406 miles used 26 gallons came out around 15.5 mpg run between 75 and 85 mph, (I65 has some long empty stretches)


That's a good looking truck. Got tired of pulling with the 'Pete?

Is that mileage towing or bobtail? I get a little better than that not towing out of mine going about the same speed. 16-17, depending on wind. The 450 has  a bit more power and weight than my truck though.

j


----------



## SouthAlabama5er

That was running empty, haven't towed far enough to get a mileage number yet. 

I love pulling with the Pete, but some times it's not feasible, everyday running around is a challenge with Pete. But I still might use the Pete in October.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

SouthAlabama5er said:


> Well I figured I'd add it the towing page, we traded our 16 3500 Silverado for this 2020 F450 Lariat with the new 10 speedtransmission.



Nice rig - congrats!


----------



## himandher818

rideswithchrist said:


> Well, the camper came with a hitch! It does have the chains, and no sway bar but it towed better than we expected.
> Except it is a brick. What a shocker after towing popups around. We averaged 9mpg with our Suburban.





rideswithchrist said:


> How many miles is "too many" on a tow vehicle?
> Our Suburban just rolled over 205K and I had planned on keeping it until 300K- BUT I am reconsidering now that we are towing a 5,000 pound camper.



I tow using a F150 with the 5.0L engine and my 5000lb trailer tows well. I get around 10+/- mpg. Like sirenia88, I plan my route around 8 mpg to give me some breathing room. I have the 1000lb 4-point Equilizer hitch, and it does well. I think it runs in the $600-$700 range now.

If the Suburban is still running well you should be fine, but towing is going to put some additional strain on it. I would at least be looking for something else in case a good deal pops up, but not rushing it. I'm guessing you were also towing it empty and without the Suburban loaded with gear. 

If you replace it with a truck it might be tight with three kids in the back once the get bigger, and then you have to split the group some in the truck and some in a car.


----------



## bama_ed

rideswithchrist said:


> Chris, what do you tow with?
> I know Ed has over 200K on his Suburban too, so I think with more maintenance we can keep ours. I like my Burb and don't want to replace it until we have to. (I don't like the chipping paint though).



I'm with you.  My Suburban (05 model) has paint peeling off the hood, the fabric ceiling panels separating, most dashboard dials non-functional (MPH and temp okay), holes worn out in floor mats, cd player jammed (XM works tho)....   All it does is keep running and towing when I need it for that (241k miles).  

Since your new trailer is not as low as the old popup, it's no surprise you took a hit on mpg.  But all in all it sounds like a fair trade if you can use the current TV for a while.  As long as it's rated to handle the weight you are towing, I would continue to use it for the foreseeable future if I were you.  

In the end we all eventually need a new tow vehicle but I am in no mood to rush that day in coming.

  Bama Ed


----------



## rideswithchrist

bama_ed said:


> I'm with you.  My Suburban (05 model) has paint peeling off the hood, the fabric ceiling panels separating, most dashboard dials non-functional (MPH and temp okay), holes worn out in floor mats, cd player jammed (XM works tho)....   All it does is keep running and towing when I need it for that (241k miles).
> 
> Since your new trailer is not as low as the old popup, it's no surprise you took a hit on mpg.  But all in all it sounds like a fair trade if you can use the current TV for a while.  As long as it's rated to handle the weight you are towing, I would continue to use it for the foreseeable future if I were you.
> 
> In the end we all eventually need a new tow vehicle but I am in no mood to rush that day in coming.
> 
> Bama Ed



Yes- the liner is coming down in a few spots, the CD player and DVD player gave up long ago and it needs a seal for the sunroof- so we tape it during rain...and I miss cloth seats- leather is too hot/too cold and then when they split, they are terrible!
That said, I don't want to get another until we HAVE to. I think we will just build up our emergency fund with car replacement in mind and see how the next 3 years go... I'll tell my hubby "as long as Ed has his Suburban, we will keep ours"


----------



## rideswithchrist

himandher818 said:


> I tow using a F150 with the 5.0L engine and my 5000lb trailer tows well. I get around 10+/- mpg. Like sirenia88, I plan my route around 8 mpg to give me some breathing room. I have the 1000lb 4-point Equilizer hitch, and it does well. I think it runs in the $600-$700 range now.
> 
> If the Suburban is still running well you should be fine, but towing is going to put some additional strain on it. I would at least be looking for something else in case a good deal pops up, but not rushing it. I'm guessing you were also towing it empty and without the Suburban loaded with gear.
> 
> If you replace it with a truck it might be tight with three kids in the back once the get bigger, and then you have to split the group some in the truck and some in a car.


*whew* good to know 10 was normal. I knew to expect it, but it was still a shock from the 14 we got with the popup. (note to self, increase Disney gas budget) haha. I figure it will be a wash in gas cost vs hotel cost anyway. 
I think we will stick with a 'burban or tahoe, while a 6 seater truck would be nice to toss bikes in...the kids would be that much louder...we really need to space them out LOL.

Chip Winston will keep chugging along as long as he can. My dad has a B300 with over 500K on it, so I laugh when people worry when their cars get close to 100K miles.


----------



## bama_ed

rideswithchrist said:


> I'll tell my hubby "as long as Ed has his Suburban, we will keep ours"



Tell hubs I have the cracked leather seats and issues with the sunroof seal too (although this last time I got it closed up tight enough to keep the water out and it will NEVER BE OPENED/TOUCHED BY ME AGAIN - it took several attempts).

But at least the electric seat warmers still work! <fist pump>.  AC too!

Ed

PS - and yep, the dvd player didn't work long after I bought it used in 2010 with 85K miles.  So our vehicles must have rolled off the shop floor in the same week.


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> But at least the electric seat warmers still work! <fist pump>.  AC too!



All you need right there!


----------



## rideswithchrist

Wohoo for butt warmers! 
Ours are flaky.


----------



## tiggerdad

rideswithchrist said:


> Ours are flaky.



The seats.....?


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> But at least the electric seat warmers still work! <fist pump>.





tiggerdad said:


> All you need right there!


I used to think that until I bought the RS. It also has a steering wheel heater. In below freezing weather, that is amazing. Almost better than the seats.

Now the weird thing I could probably do without. My truck also has seat coolers. It cools pretty well, but gives you the sensation you wet your pants. I'll turn it on for passengers without saying anything and then see how long it takes them to start squirming.   

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> I used to think that until I bought the RS. It also has a steering wheel heater. In below freezing weather, that is amazing. Almost better than the seats.
> 
> Now the weird thing I could probably do without. My truck also has seat coolers. It cools pretty well, but gives you the sensation you wet your pants. I'll turn it on for passengers without saying anything and then see how long it takes them to start squirming.
> 
> j



With my all black interior the seat coolers are a must in the summer.

I have never noticed the wet sensation however.

On long trips, even in summer, I use the seat heater to help with keeping my back muscles from hurting.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> With my all black interior the seat coolers are a must in the summer.
> 
> On long trips, even in summer, I use the seat heater to help with keeping my back muscles from hurting.


My seats are tan, thankfully. If I lived as close to the sun as you do, I'd probably use them more. I don't remember to use them and when I do, the sensation is just weird.

Our crew guy on the race team used to put on the heaters too for the same reason. Luckily I don't have back problems. The back sweating is enough in the Summer without adding heat from the seats.

j


----------



## team bradfield

Part-Time Paradise said:


> The rig shakedown was a month in the making between weather and work, but we finally got her out for a short trip.
> 
> We love the trailer, but we're a little disappointed with the whole RV industry.  So many nail/staple holes with horrible filler jobs.  The filler either doesn't match the area or it looks like they applied it with a sausage tied to their fingers.  So many little things that you'd think someone would catch between the manufacturer and the dealer.  Loose screws, unprogrammed LCI GC 3.0, stickers left all over everything that the installer is supposed to remove, etc.
> 
> Nothing that I've found hurts the functionality nor anything in the long haul.  Though I'm not sure a rookie RVer could figure out all these problems like we did.  Just a good reminder that we look like bags of money instead of people to most of these company.



Nice 5'ver, we've owned 2 Cardinals and 2 Montana's, all of them have the same issues with sawdust, staples, nail filler, etc.   I never use the auto level, takes too long, I just use manual mode.
Funny, our first meal in every RV has been homemade pizza (and every Friday while camping)  the new ovens work great.  If you haven't already, join the Montana owners group, a wealth of information and help with issues.  https://www.montanaowners.com/forums/index.php


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

team bradfield said:


> Nice 5'ver, we've owned 2 Cardinals and 2 Montana's, all of them have the same issues with sawdust, staples, nail filler, etc.   I never use the auto level, takes too long, I just use manual mode.
> Funny, our first meal in every RV has been homemade pizza (and every Friday while camping)  the new ovens work great.  If you haven't already, join the Montana owners group, a wealth of information and help with issues.  https://www.montanaowners.com/forums/index.php



Thanks.  We're happy with it and it's such a difference from our little starter TT.

Now that the auto level is calibrated I'm quite happy with it.  We've camped two more weekends since and while it's finishing up leveling I'm running around getting stuff out of the truck, covering the hitch, etc etc.  It works out on timing.  I just need to upgrade the battery bank so I don't have to have it plugged to shore power to make sure it will finish auto leveling.

Our oven is a little smaller than our old 30' TT.  That was a bit surprising, but we found a pan that works.  It's too easy and the kids enjoy it.  I agree the oven works well, just need a thermometer to verify the knob's lies.

I've seen you post a few times on MOC.  Haven't felt the need to burst out from lurker mode yet.


----------



## jbrostek

@team bradfield Funny, since my 2014 I never use manual level unless it wont level properly.  It is now just part of my disconnect process that onces the truck is off the trailer, I hit auto level while I work on connecting shore power.  By the time that is done she is level and I continue on to the next task.

@SouthAlabama5er I bet it tows really well.  I like the newer units except the price.  Right now I have a 2012 F350DRW with 51k miles on it, the last one I had I ran till 200k miles before I traded up and that was a 2006 in 2016.  I drive this truck less as I now work in an area where driving an old 2005 hyundai is easier plus fits in my companies garage.


----------



## kbrazieltx

First time I have seen the Camping Forum. We have camped at Fort Wilderness many times and now are DVC Members but still plan on staying at FW at least every other year.  This summer we have a trip planned with Friends from Texas and cant wait to get back to our Happy Place!!!  This picture is from 2016 when we had 10 people on our site. What a great time it was.


----------



## tiggerdad

kbrazieltx said:


> First time I have seen the Camping Forum. We have camped at Fort Wilderness many times and now are DVC Members but still plan on staying at FW at least every other year.  This summer we have a trip planned with Friends from Texas and cant wait to get back to our Happy Place!!!  This picture is from 2016 when we had 10 people on our site. What a great time it was.
> 
> View attachment 481447





Hate you just found us, but by all means be no stranger.  Looking forward to hearing some more from you.


----------



## tigger92662

kbrazieltx said:


> First time I have seen the Camping Forum.


 If you've read any of the posts, ya know we like pictures and trip reports and pictures. Glad you joined in


----------



## Stratman50th

tigger92662 said:


> If you've read any of the posts, ya know we like pictures and trip reports and pictures. Glad you joined in


And don't forget pictures!


----------



## Flametamr

After a lot of time I finally upgraded my truck to this nice 2017. Also converted my camper to a gooseneck so I can have more room in the truck and cut less holes.


----------



## Teamubr

Good looking truck, Joe. 

I had a gooseneck adapter on my old 5er. I was too cheap to by the Reese hitch that fit the pucks in the bed floor. It was bad enough buying the $200 Ford gooseneck ball to tow the race trailer. Still have the adapter in the garage. It seemed to make the pin hammer a little harder over big bumps, but otherwise towed fine. 

j


----------



## tripleb

Hopefully, this Corona crap will just be a memory by the middle of September. Our new fifth wheel will make its debut at the Fort starting September 13.


----------



## PaHunter

tripleb said:


> Hopefully, this Corona crap will just be a memory by the middle of September. Our new fifth wheel will make its debut at the Fort starting September 13.
> 
> View attachment 483670


Which model is that. We looked at the one with the Front Kitchen, but wife did not like having a table. SO DW won with the front living room.


----------



## tripleb

PaHunter said:


> Which model is that. We looked at the one with the Front Kitchen, but wife did not like having a table. SO DW won with the front living room.



PaHunter, She's a 2020 Montana High Country 295RL 10th Year Anniversary Edition. We really like the looks of a front living room floor plan but I was concerned with the additional pin weight that might result with front living units. So, this 295RL is a rear living coach with 3 slides (2 opposing) and a residential refer. I wasn't to thrilled with the idea of a residential refer simply because of the need for shore power. It does have an inverter and I insisted on 2 batteries but still, not thrilled with relying on shore power or batteries to keep my beer cold  Solar would be an option of course but that stuff is PRICEY ! Anyway, the wife loves it ... Happy Wife, Happy Life


----------



## Flametamr

Teamubr said:


> Good looking truck, Joe.
> 
> I had a gooseneck adapter on my old 5er. I was too cheap to by the Reese hitch that fit the pucks in the bed floor. It was bad enough buying the $200 Ford gooseneck ball to tow the race trailer. Still have the adapter in the garage. It seemed to make the pin hammer a little harder over big bumps, but otherwise towed fine.
> 
> j



Well my first time towing went well. The truck has plenty of power. Not sure if it's due to the gooseneck or not but I seem to feel more of the road. Especially crossing the long bay bridge. It could just be that the new truck has more suspension travel. But I got it to the Gulf no trouble at all. If anyone needs to run from the virus there is many open spaces from what I can see.


----------



## Teamubr

Flametamr said:


> Not sure if it's due to the gooseneck or not but I seem to feel more of the road.


That's what I meant about it "hammering" more. It may have been in my head, but all the pin weight being on a little ball vs spread out on a 5th wheel plate seems like it would make the bumps a little rougher. It also seemed to have a little more push/pull that a 5er hitch.

I'm surprised GSP is still open. All the parks up here are shut down. Have a great time.

j


----------



## team bradfield

Nice looking Monty, we have the front living room model, 6 slides,  we just love it. 

P.S.  I understand the concern of power for the residential fridge, if we boondocked or had limited power concerns, we wouldn't have purchased it.. we have always camped/vacationed at electric sites.  I also installed a 30 amp service at the house to keep powered up.  nice back up to keep extra beer cold!


----------



## Uncledave54

I'm not sure which thread to ask this so I'll do it here.

In a travel trailer freezer, how long should i expect something like 1/2 lb hamburger to freeze? Chicken breast? Steaks? Etc.

Thanks
Dave


----------



## PaHunter

Uncledave54 said:


> I'm not sure which thread to ask this so I'll do it here.
> 
> In a travel trailer freezer, how long should i expect something like 1/2 lb hamburger to freeze? Chicken breast? Steaks? Etc.
> 
> Thanks
> Dave



Well out trailer has a residential fridge, so it is like our home unit. I always start my fridge up at least 2 days before our trip and once cold we load with the food we are taking. Most stuff is already frozen from our main freezer in the house. If you are just freezing leftovers, I would say not very long but it also depends on the temperature that your freezer gets down to. 
There is no real good answer without knowing the temps of your freezer, etc. But I would expect it to take longer than your residential unit at home does.


----------



## Teamubr

We have a typical Dometic gas/electric RV refrigerator. The freezer gets (and stays) cold. It will freeze things as fast or faster than my home freezer. The problem I have with my current (RV) refrigerator is the entire thing takes forever to cool down to temperature. 18-24 hours in the summer. And if I put too much in the refrigerator, it won't hold a temp. It's done it since new. There is a temperature read out on the front. It fluctuates all over. I put a thermometer inside that reads more consistent. If I put too much inside or anything warm, the temp goes from 36-48 (or higher) and will take 12 hours or more to cool back down. The hotter the outside temp is the worse it is. I added a circulating fan inside and 2 in the vent thinking it was a circulation thing, but they didn't help much.

Oddly, the freezer stays frozen fine.

Sorry for the rant. I think I answered your question.  

j


----------



## Uncledave54

Teamubr said:


> We have a typical Dometic gas/electric RV refrigerator. The freezer gets (and stays) cold. It will freeze things as fast or faster than my home freezer. The problem I have with my current (RV) refrigerator is the entire thing takes forever to cool down to temperature. 18-24 hours in the summer. And if I put too much in the refrigerator, it won't hold a temp. It's done it since new. There is a temperature read out on the front. It fluctuates all over. I put a thermometer inside that reads more consistent. If I put too much inside or anything warm, the temp goes from 36-48 (or higher) and will take 12 hours or more to cool back down. The hotter the outside temp is the worse it is. I added a circulating fan inside and 2 in the vent thinking it was a circulation thing, but they didn't help much.
> 
> Oddly, the freezer stays frozen fine.
> 
> Sorry for the rant. I think I answered your question.
> 
> j


Thanks.... it answered my questions, now i just hope my wife can follow along. Lol


----------



## 2goofycampers

Uncledave54 said:


> Thanks.... it answered my questions, now i just hope my wife can follow along. Lol


I also find it's better to put things in the freezer that are already frozen.


----------



## Uncledave54

2goofycampers said:


> I also find it's better to put things in the freezer that are already frozen.


Oh, i totally agree, but my wife wants to be able to buy fresh meats while on the road, then freeze it for future use like she would at home.


----------



## chartle

Uncledave54 said:


> Oh, i totally agree, but my wife wants to be able to buy fresh meats while on the road, then freeze it for future use like she would at home.


How long are you out? Can you buy everything at the start and freeze before you leave.

But not sure why you would do this? When camping you sometimes have to adjust how you shop and eat. But we find even for a long weekend for four we can fill the fridge but have very little in the freezer.

But are you buying sides of beef out on the road?


----------



## Teamubr

chartle said:


> Even for a long weekend we have very little in the freezer.


WHAT !  

This is how the freezer should look.   



j


----------



## PaHunter

I mean our TT freezer was not big enough to buy and store stuff that was not for the planned meals for the trip. Our current rig with the residential fridge is a different story.


----------



## Uncledave54

chartle said:


> How long are you out? Can you buy everything at the start and freeze before you leave.
> 
> But not sure why you would do this? When camping you sometimes have to adjust how you shop and eat. But we find even for a long weekend for four we can fill the fridge but have very little in the freezer.
> 
> But are you buying sides of beef out on the road?


We're going to be at the Fort for the entire month of November, plus the first 2 weeks of December. After that we're goint on a cross country trip staying a month each in Texas, New Mexico,  Arizona, and Nevada, before heading back east to Michigan.


----------



## chartle

Uncledave54 said:


> We're going to be at the Fort for the entire month of November, plus the first 2 weeks of December. After that we're goint on a cross country trip staying a month each in Texas, New Mexico,  Arizona, and Nevada, before heading back east to Michigan.


But do you need to buy and freeze large amounts of meat? But my freezer gets very cold but never been with it south of the Mason Dixon line.


----------



## Uncledave54

chartle said:


> But do you need to buy and freeze large amounts of meat? But my freezer gets very cold but never been with it south of the Mason Dixon line.


Wifey poo  doesn't want to have to go to the nearest piggly-wiggly every 4 days. I told her atleast once a week is going to have to work.


----------



## 2goofycampers

Uncledave54 said:


> We're going to be at the Fort for the entire month of November, plus the first 2 weeks of December. After that we're goint on a cross country trip staying a month each in Texas, New Mexico,  Arizona, and Nevada, before heading back east to Michigan.


Nice trip! We have a dorm frig we keep outside. We keep drinks in it that won't go bad if the temperatures get a little warm. This way it saves frig room inside for meats and such. We can do at least a weeks worth of shopping at a time.


----------



## chartle

Uncledave54 said:


> Wifey poo  doesn't want to have to go to the nearest piggly-wiggly every 4 days. I told her atleast once a week is going to have to work.


OK but then we got to the issue of how much meat you eat in 4 days.


----------



## chartle

Teamubr said:


> WHAT !
> 
> This is how the freezer should look.
> 
> View attachment 487446
> 
> j


I have never had a mickey bar.  Last time in the parks I was still having issues with milk products and would not want be "uncomfortable" on Space Mountain.  I was more of a Dole Whip or Frozen Banana kind of guy.


----------



## Stratman50th

For what it's worth, we do a lot of prep ahead of a trip. We make meals that will go in the crock pot ahead of time, then package it in Ziplock bags. We store them flat in the home freezer, or in the coach freezer which is a residential. Then we can repack them in the freezer standing up and use them down throughout the trip. It sounds like a lot of work, and I guess it is but it's so nice to have a real meal at the end of the day. A lot of times we'll throw one into the crock pot while enroute and dinner is ready when we get there.


----------



## Teamubr

If anyone is in the area, I'm replacing the serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and radiator hoses this weekend. We can stay 6 ft apart if you want to help. I'll even stay in the house and watch through the window if that makes you more comfortable.   

This box of goodies showed up yesterday. $350 worth here and another $100 in antifreeze in the garage. The manual says the belt is good for 150,000 miles. I only have 120,000 miles, but the belt is 10 years old and feels pretty dry and cracked. The hoses are one of those things... while you're in there, you might as well.

Hopefully this doesn't turn into too big of a project. I need the truck next weekend to pull the camper out and de-winterize.



j


----------



## Teamubr

The dreaded double post.

I haven't had this happen in a long time.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Well that looks like a fun day ahead. After 10 years, belt change may not be a bad idea.
 I had them change mine and the hoses on the jeep, as we bought it used and even though the mileage was low, it is a 2003 and I have no idea when or if stuff has been changed.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> After 10 years, belt change may not be a bad idea.


The belt is a pain, but necessary. I learned long ago working on race cars to replace everything you can get to when doing a PIA job. Racing Law says the harder it is to repair, the more likely it is to fail. The idler pulleys and tensioner may be fine for another 50,000 miles, but my luck, they will fail 10 miles after leaving on my next trip. 

The hoses are the same. I don't have to remove them to do the belt and pulleys, but I've been smelling antifreeze after I drive it for a while. No signs of a leak (yet) and it isn't losing any, but if I can smell it, one of those hoses will blow when I don't want it to.

These newest Ford diesels actually have 2 separate cooling systems. Two water pumps, radiators and reservoirs. The primary cools the engine. The secondary cools the fuel, trans, EGR, intake air (water/air innercooler), power steering and turbo. I didn't get the hoses for that. They snake all over and you have to buy each one separately. I will be checking them out while I have things apart. I suspect one of the fittings may be leaking very slightly for me to smell it. Either that or one of the radiator caps needs replacing is is venting.

j


----------



## 2goofycampers

Teamubr said:


> If anyone is in the area, I'm replacing the serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and radiator hoses this weekend. We can stay 6 ft apart if you want to help. I'll even stay in the house and watch through the window if that makes you more comfortable.
> 
> This box of goodies showed up yesterday. $350 worth here and another $100 in antifreeze in the garage. The manual says the belt is good for 150,000 miles. I only have 120,000 miles, but the belt is 10 years old and feels pretty dry and cracked. The hoses are one of those things... while you're in there, you might as well.
> 
> Hopefully this doesn't turn into too big of a project. I need the truck next weekend to pull the camper out and de-winterize.
> 
> View attachment 488604
> 
> j


We'll just watch the youtube video.


----------



## tiggerdad

I had the diesel mechanic go ahead and change mine at 100,000 miles when the EGR valve had to be replaced.  I kept the old belt though, keep it in toolbox just in case I break current one while on the road.

I'll social distance a few hundred miles.


----------



## Flametamr

Darn too bad I have to work at my essential job. I just love doing free mechanic work. LOL


----------



## rideswithchrist

Guess who is finally going camping in our NTU camper!
What do you average in RPMs while towing?

Pulling our 4800# wet camper with a fully loaded down Suburban and we seem to average 2500


----------



## PaHunter

rideswithchrist said:


> Guess who is finally going camping in our NTU camper!
> What do you average in RPMs while towing?
> 
> Pulling our 4800# wet camper with a fully loaded down Suburban and we seem to average 2500



If you have a tow and haul mode, make sure it is on. If not if you can lock out overdrive. Either one will help your transmission. RPM's are not the big issue, my truck turns about 1200 rpm at 65 mph, but that is how it is programmed. 
Bigger issue is transmission temperature. Keep an eye on that, it should run between 165 and 200 degrees. Coolant can run up to about 210 degrees.


----------



## rideswithchrist

PaHunter said:


> If you have a tow and haul mode, make sure it is on. If not if you can lock out overdrive. Either one will help your transmission. RPM's are not the big issue, my truck turns about 1200 rpm at 65 mph, but that is how it is programmed.
> Bigger issue is transmission temperature. Keep an eye on that, it should run between 165 and 200 degrees. Coolant can run up to about 210 degrees.



Ok. We will add a temp gauge before our out of state trip for sure. 
the butban has tow haul- but it does not like to shift down when we are around 55 and trying to gain. 
we do have a shudder at that speed too so we need to be prepared for a transmission replacement if needed.


----------



## Teamubr

rideswithchrist said:


> The butban has tow haul- but it does not like to shift down when we are around 55 and trying to gain.


Holding a lower gear (resulting in higher RPM) is how the Tow/Haul mode works. Instead of the transmission constantly shift back and forth between gears, it just holds the lower gear. The constant shifting up and down is what generates the heat in an automatic transmission and the heat is what kills them. The higher rpm also keeps the engine in a range it makes more power to be able to pull the extra weight. The rpm (and more power) don't help fuel mileage, but that is one of the trade offs. 

I know the higher rpm is loud and annoying, but if that is what the transmission is doing in tow/haul mode, it is doing its job. 

j


----------



## rideswithchrist

Teamubr said:


> Holding a lower gear (resulting in higher RPM) is how the Tow/Haul mode works. Instead of the transmission constantly shift back and forth between gears, it just holds the lower gear. The constant shifting up and down is what generates the heat in an automatic transmission and the heat is what kills them. The higher rpm also keeps the engine in a range it makes more power to be able to pull the extra weight. The rpm (and more power) don't help fuel mileage, but that is one of the trade offs.
> 
> I know the higher rpm is loud and annoying, but if that is what the transmission is doing in tow/haul mode, it is doing its job.
> 
> j



thanks! We were wondering aboutvthat, because it only happens in T/H but we wanted to see if that was the normal higher rpm. the popup did not weigh enough to have an effect really. 
so- knowing it is normal for it to hold the gear is good news.
Nothing like hauling a new camper to make you feel like a 15 year old learning to drive all over again.


----------



## tiggerdad

It also utilizes downshifting to help with braking as well.  Downshifting earlier to utilizes the engining braking.


----------



## love__goofy

Hi all!
Previously we owned a class C and Class A.  We just purchased a Montana 377FL 5th wheel.  It looks like we would need a 250 or 350 truck.  Does anyone know what would be best?  Short or long bed?  At this point, we will just be towing basically on 95 from NC to SC beaches and FL.  

Thoughts and suggestions would very much appreciated!


----------



## Teamubr

The Keystone web site says the "shipping weight" is 12,985. That is definitely F350 territory and I would definitely go with a dually. My 5er weighs about the same and I wouldn't consider towing without a dually F350 or higher.

As for long or shortbed, I'd go with the long bed. The hitch will be placed far enough away from the cab that you don't have to worry about tight turns.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

The pin weight is 2500#, considering the other weight in the vehicle including fuel and people you'll likely need the duel wheels for the safest feel.  The 350 single wheel has extra helper spring and taller block.  Instead of adding the helper spring to my F250 I put Firestone Airbags so I could keep the smoother ride when I was not towing.  My camping pin weight is 2000#, so not as heavy as yours and my rig is 9700# dry, so you are certainly heavier than I am.  With this considered, I agree with Jim about going with duel wheel rear end.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> The pin weight is 2500#


I saw the pin weight and initially thought it was wrong, but for a dry (delivered) weight, I guess it is about right. 5ers generally have about 20% of the weight on the pin. Once you put 2,000 pounds (or more up to the 3,475 carrying capacity) of your "stuff" in the trailer, you are over 3,000 pin weight. 

j


----------



## tripleb

love__goofy said:


> Hi all!
> Previously we owned a class C and Class A.  We just purchased a Montana 377FL 5th wheel.  It looks like we would need a 250 or 350 truck.  Does anyone know what would be best?  Short or long bed?  At this point, we will just be towing basically on 95 from NC to SC beaches and FL.
> 
> Thoughts and suggestions would very much appreciated!



You are in 350/3500 territory … leave the 250/2500 on the lot. And, you will be better off with a dually and a long bed. Oh, and one other very important suggestion … make sure your truck is a diesel. That Montana is a lotta weight for a gas engine to handle especially if you travel in the mountains or even foothill areas.


----------



## PaHunter

We had pulled a Sandpiper 379FLOK, which is very similar to your Montana. We used a Chevy Crew cab dually to pull it. Diesel is the only way to go. We had that setup at the Fort in 2017, and it felt pretty stable. You may want to consider a used one to save some money, but be ready to jump on them. When I bought ours, I chased trucks for nearly 3 months. One dealer sold the truck from under me while I was on the way there to see it.


----------



## jbrostek

I agree with @PaHunter that you are in DRW range for capacity and really diesel is the way to go for something that big.  Finding a good used one can be just as frustrating though still possible.  The reason I bring up the DRW is your pin  weight starts at 2465LBS and goes up from there.  So you have to look at what your loaded weight will end up being on the truck.


----------



## tiggerdad

Courtesy of @SouthAlabama5er on his daily travels.  The trailer is attached to the tube where the crapper hose belongs.


----------



## Teamubr

Sounds safe...


----------



## tripleb

What could possibly go wrong ?  Some of the FW's come with a 2" receiver hitch designed to be used as a towing hitch ( Our old Jayco and new Montana has one ). However, they are only designed for 300 pounds of tongue weight and 3000 pound load. That car trailer certainly exceeds that rating.


----------



## WeLovePluto

I like that one wheel is teal and the other isn’t.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

tripleb said:


> What could possibly go wrong ?  Some of the FW's come with a 2" receiver hitch designed to be used as a towing hitch ( Our old Jayco and new Montana has one ). However, they are only designed for 300 pounds of tongue weight and 3000 pound load. That car trailer certainly exceeds that rating.



I have one on my Montana and I'm paranoid the bike rack I have on it is too much.  Evidently I should be pulling a second car with a bike rack on it.


----------



## tiggerdad

WeLovePluto said:


> I like that one wheel is teal and the other isn’t.


Poor turn signal on trailer lost its life long ago.  Nothing left but an empty carcass.

One wire hanging down...


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

tiggerdad said:


> Poor turn signal on trailer lost its life long ago.  Nothing left but an empty carcass.
> 
> One wire hanging down...



Should be fine...


----------



## bama_ed

That guy @SouthAlabama5er (Randy) must live on the wild side with all those outlaws on the road.

Stay safe, Randy.  

Ed


----------



## jbrostek

Ok, I have done a golfcart but I built the hitch and it connected to the actual frame of the 5th wheel.  This is a whole lot of *** going on there.  That just looks like a bad idea.  And it looks like a drift car, so I wonder if ill see that around at some point working an event.

PS:  Anyone else notice the AC unit looks like a few too many low bridges?


----------



## Mome Rath

Question; Hi all, we have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD Ext Cab SLT (5.3L V8) right now and I'm having a hard time determining towing capacity due to the fact I don't know what our Axle Ratio is.  I've entered the VIN into a decoder, but it's not telling me which we have, and the towing capacity is a 2,800 lb difference depending on which it is (meaning if it is a 3.08 axle ratio the Max trailer weight is 6,800 lbs, and a 3.42 ratio is 9,600 lbs).  Will our dealer/mechanic (they are one and the same) be able to tell me which it is, or is there a different way to get an estimate of the towing capacity without that?


----------



## Teamubr

The dealer should be able to tell you. There should be a tag at the rear differential, usually on one of the bolts for the dif cover. It may also be on the door tag where your tire pressures are located. That same tag should also tell you what your weight ratings are, although it may not say "tow rating". It will likely give you axle weight ratings, a GVWR (the max the truck can weigh with all the stuff in it, including the tongue weight, and the GCWR (max EVERYTHING can weigh, truck, trailer, you and all your stuff).

This is what one looks like on a Ford. It also has the axle code, but you have to look it up. The "3J" in the pic below is a 3.55 limited slip in a Ford truck.



Here's one for a GM I found on the web that shows trailer weights. Looks like it is next to the door tag (typically driver's door B-pillar) with tire and axle ratings.



j


----------



## Mome Rath

Ok, after looking at all the stickers, I found the one in the glove compartment that lists parts, and I found one corresponding to the 3.42 axle ratio, which is good.

Our door sticker didn't have nearly that much info, wish it did!  We found the GVWR (7000 lbs) early on, but it does not list the GCWR.


----------



## tripleb

Teamubr said:


> Here's one for a GM I found on the web that shows trailer weights. Looks like it is next to the door tag (typically driver's door B-pillar) with tire and axle ratings.
> 
> View attachment 502760
> 
> j



Teamubr, the GM Trailering Information sticker info you posted started in 2020 ... prior to that, the sticker was similar to Ford.


----------



## tripleb

Mome Rath said:


> Ok, after looking at all the stickers, I found the one in the glove compartment that lists parts, and I found one corresponding to the 3.42 axle ratio, which is good.
> 
> Our door sticker didn't have nearly that much info, wish it did!  We found the GVWR (7000 lbs) early on, but it does not list the GCWR.



Another sticker that is important is the yellow/black sticker on the drivers door post that list tire inflation. I also indicates how much cargo carrying capacity your truck is rated for. I.E., how much additional weight your truck can safely carry such as, persons, coolers, dogs, firewood, hitch weight, and tongue weight of the travel trailer.


----------



## Teamubr

tripleb said:


> Teamubr, the GM Trailering Information sticker info you posted started in 2020 ... prior to that, the sticker was similar to Ford.


BBB, 

It figures. I've never owned a GM product, but found a bunch of images for the trailer weights. Seems everyone is impressed with that new addition. It's about time the manufacturers made it easy to find that info. Ford publishes their tow ratings for every possible cab/frame/engine/axle/transmission and tire and wheel combo. It is a bit overwhelming, but it is fairly easy to find all the info you need.

j


----------



## FtW Mike

Okay looking for recommendations on towbars and baseplates for those with Class A or C Motorhomes.  After hemming and Hawing over the subject we pulled the trigger and got a vehicle we can tow behind the coach.  Got a good deal on a 2018 Chevy Equinox that came off lease.  Weight limit is under our max and it according to MotorHome Magazine Dingy Guide and owners manual it can be towed 4 down.
 Going next week to talk with service and parts people at our local RV dealership for their recommendations as to tow bar, baseplate for Toad and braking system and Toad shield.  Still would love to hear what others have and how happy you are.  TIA


----------



## Stratman50th

FtW Mike said:


> Okay looking for recommendations on towbars and baseplates for those with Class A or C Motorhomes.  After hemming and Hawing over the subject we pulled the trigger and got a vehicle we can tow behind the coach.  Got a good deal on a 2018 Chevy Equinox that came off lease.  Weight limit is under our max and it according to MotorHome Magazine Dingy Guide and owners manual it can be towed 4 down.
> Going next week to talk with service and parts people at our local RV dealership for their recommendations as to tow bar, baseplate for Toad and braking system and Toad shield.  Still would love to hear what others have and how happy you are.  TIA


Hey Mike, we have the Blue Ox tow bar and base plate and have been very happy with it. Is it "the best"? I don't know but we've had it since 2014 and have about 30k miles on it. We tow a 2011 Tahoe. I also use the Blue Ox Patriot brake. I wanted a brake that tied into the coach air system but nobody near where we lived knew how to install it so we went the easy route. I bought everything that was rated at 10k even though I don't get near that. Just looking for the safety factor.
PS: Whatever you do make sure the tow bar is level. I didn't! First trip really had me on edge. As soon as I got back I bought a 6' drop hitch which did the job.
This is without the drop hitch. Don't be this guy!

Drop Hitch!


----------



## sirenia88

@Stratman50th   I use a Blue OX Sway Pro 1500# spring bar WD hitch for my trailer towing needs.  I love it.  I met the company out at the Hershey RV show a few years back.  I thought it was a super slick system.   When I got my new trailer a few years ago, I ordered the BO hitch.  I have not looked back since.  I had a Reese Pro Series with Sway control.  That thing I was annoying to hook up.  The Blue Ox for me is so much easier plus no issues with backing up or unhooking the bars and sway control for that.


----------



## Uncledave54

Uncledave54 said:


> We're going to be at the Fort for the entire month of November, plus the first 2 weeks of December. After that we're goint on a cross country trip staying a month each in Texas, New Mexico,  Arizona, and Nevada, before heading back east to Michigan.


Well, it looks like we're not going. Lovie wants to cancel due to covid. 

I'm thinking we might be jumping the gun.

Im so confused.


----------



## tiggerdad

Uncledave54 said:


> Im so confused.



You're not alone.  Everything changes each day.  I'd probably hold on to it and make the call closer to the trip.  However, I don't see Rona moving out anytime soon.


----------



## Uncledave54

tiggerdad said:


> However, I don't see Rona moving out anytime soon.


Yeah, thats what mama says. I'm just bummed.


----------



## Stork

Cancel just prior to the point of incurring a fee/penalty for canceling.  RVing sounds like the safest travel option available if you need or want to be on the road.  Other than dedicated Snowbird campgrounds, however, I don't see Mom & Pop campgrounds being as thorough as FW in cleaning or sanitizing.  It's probably safer to boon dock these days versus going for the "resort" environment.



Uncledave54 said:


> Wifey poo doesn't want to have to go to the nearest piggly-wiggly every 4 days. I told her at least once a week is going to have to work.



On the 94 day trek FL-to-AK (and back) summer of 2018, significant other actually enjoyed seeing how other people shop/live on our weekly grocery runs.  Also, well stocked fridge and freezer is more opportunity for loss in the event of power disruptions.  Oh wait, those never happen at campgrounds. What am I thinking?

Besides, liquor cabinet can only hold a one week's supply!


----------



## Teamubr

The new truck was missing something, but I fixed it. 

Now we are ready for Disney.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> The new truck was missing something, but I fixed it.
> 
> Now we are ready for Disney.



What kind of auxiliary tank is that?  I've ogled auxiliary tanks for years.  I think I might finally make the leap when I buy a new truck in a year or two.  The thought of packing 80 gallons or more while pulling 40+ foot of trailer in the boonies sounds a lot better than 36.


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> What kind of auxiliary tank is that?  I've ogled auxiliary tanks for years.  I think I might finally make the leap when I buy a new truck in a year or two.  The thought of packing 80 gallons or more while pulling 40+ foot of trailer in the boonies sounds a lot better than 36.


PTP,

It's a RDS 60 gallon tank. We put these in the old truck when I was racing all over the country. It gave us a 800-900 mile range towing the race trailers. (97.5 gallons total capacity). We fab'd up some mounts for them (my team mate had a matching truck) that elevated the tank off the bed so we could still slide boards or plywood underneath. Here's a pic of the tag on the tank and the mount we welded up from some scrap angle iron we had in the shop. We made it just high enough to fit under the bed rails so we could roll a tonneau cover over. I swapped it into the new truck before we went to the Midwest DISmeet 2 weeks ago. The tank is gravity fed through a coupler in the truck fuel filler.





j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> PTP,
> 
> It's a RDS 60 gallon tank. We put these in the old truck when I was racing all over the country. It gave us a 800-900 mile range towing the race trailers. (97.5 gallons total capacity). We fab'd up some mounts for them (my team mate had a matching truck) that elevated the tank off the bed so we could still slide boards or plywood underneath.



I like the elevated mounting.  Slick.

Did you have to fiddle with the computer since it's going to read full for 60 some odd gallons?


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> Did you have to fiddle with the computer since it's going to read full for 60 some odd gallons?


No, we didn't do anything. It is funny watching the Distance to Empty calculation as you drive. It will drop 15 or 20 miles, then jump back up. I always wondered if the computer would get confused, but my old truck had 80k towing miles on it and it never did anything silly.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> I always wondered if the computer would get confused, but my *old* truck had 80k towing miles on it and it never did anything silly.



Please update if your newer truck ever blows a sprocket.  I feel as cars keep getting more and more easier to drive with technology, but keep getting harder to work on or modify because of all the crap from the OEM that's in the way.


----------



## Teamubr

PTP,

My "old" truck was a 2011. Almost identical to the "new" 2016. Same engine and transmission, although more HP and torque. 440/860 vs 400/800. The new truck has nicer stuff on it too. NaV, sunroof, rear window defroster, rear seat heaters. Both were Lariats, but the new one is a "Lariate Ultimate". It also has airbags, a front receiver hitch, tinted windows and window visors. Overall a nice upgrade from my old one that was getting tired from 120,000 miles of towing 15,000- 21,000 lb trailers around for 10 years. 

I like the looks of the newer F350s (2017-up), but I didn't like the price. This 2016 only had 46,000 miles on it when I bought it. 

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> PTP,
> 
> My "old" truck was a 2011. Almost identical to the "new" 2016.



Sorry, to clarify...meant if the computer rejects being full for 60 gallons.  Not if it breaks down somewhere.  Sounds like it shouldn't be an issue since so much is similar.

Thanks


----------



## Teamubr

It's been a while since anyone posted here.

I bought some new truck tires yesterday for the new (to me) F350 dually I picked up over the Summer. It is a 2016 that only had 46,000 miles on it. The front tires were new, but the rears (all 4) are getting close to the wear indicators. I started looking around for new tires, dreading the $250 a piece I was expecting. 

I started looking for good LT truck tires like  I have bought in the past. Firestone used to make an HT truck tire that was great and cheap, but I can't find them anymore. The set I had on my last truck I really liked. They were Yokohama Geolander G015. Great tire and they are under $200 a piece. Then I remembered the Sailun G-rated trailer tires I bought for the camper. They are amazing if you have a big heavy trailer and are half the price of a similar Goodyear. The factory support, if you have questions, was also fantastic. 

The only place I can find Sailun tires is online at Simple Tire. It just so happens there is a Sailun LT245/75/17 E tire with an AT profile (all terrain) for my truck. Reviews on them were great. (4.7/5 for 47 reviews) They normally run $259/ each (ouch), but Simple Tire is running a "12 Days of Christmas" sale and they are 38% off. That makes them $152 a piece. There was also a $32 discount at checkout for their "12 Days of Christmas" that mostly covered the tax. There are 4 in the mail that should be here by the end of the week. I still have to pay for mounting/balance, but it is still hundreds less than Goodyear, BF Goodrich or even the Yokos I like. I'm not sure if I will put these on before my NC trip in January since the current tires aren't quite down to the wear indicators (likely will), but I have them. 

I'll let you know how I like them.

j


----------



## Sjm9911

Looks good not a bad tread eaither. Not too aggressive but not exactly a hyway tire eaither. Good luck with them. A lot of stuff is sold out or hard to find now. Dam covid.


----------



## Teamubr

Sjm9911 said:


> Looks good not a bad tread either. Not too aggressive but not exactly a hyway tire either.


The tread is one of the things I liked. I have always run HT (highway tread) tires on my trucks. The truck currently has BF Goodrich Rugged Trail T/A tires. They have a fairly aggressive tread. We don't get a lot of snow here and the truck doesn't go off road much, so I prefer the lower noise and better traction on the highway of these less aggressive tires.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> The front tires were new, but the rears (all 4) are getting close to the wear indicators. I started looking around for new tires, dreading the $250 a piece I was expecting.



A reminder I didn't want!  I fruitlessly look online about once a week for new tires for the truck.  The current ones are about to be qualified as racing slicks, but I can't find any I like.  Something to work on tonight!


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> Something to work on tonight!


What are you looking for? Between my own trucks and the race team, we have had 7 different F250/350 trucks we have had to shoe. I'm sure we can find something that will also work on a GM product.  

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> What are you looking for?



Highway tread, good quality, not 700 a tire.  I'm not really brand loyal per se.  I'm running Firestone Destination AT2s right now, no big complaints.  I think the set prior were Michelins.


----------



## Teamubr

I used to run Firestone Transforce HT on two of my older trucks. They were recommended by my tire guy as a great highway tire for towing bigger stuff. He said most of the local business guys were running them on their work trucks. Low cost, long life and drove good. When I needed to replace them after 60,000 miles, he said he couldn't get them anymore. That's when I switched to the Yokohama Geolander G056. The 2nd set were on my last truck when I sold it this summer.

Firestone's site says they still sell the Transforce HT and a Transforce HT2. Not sure what the difference is. The description on the Firestone site reads almost the same for both. I would definitely consider them again. They aren't as good a value as they used to be. TireRack has them for $207.

I have had General Grabber tires that didn't wear well. They were the factory tires and were garbage. I had to replace them with less than 30,000 miles and they drove like crap. Also tried a set of Pirelli Scorpions. They were horrible. They had no grip in the wet. I would get stuck on wet grass. I have only needed to get towed out of being stuck once in over 500,000 miles of driving trucks... until I had those Pirellis. Needed to get pulled 3 times in one race season when it rained and I couldn't park on pavement. I replaced the tires at 20,000 miles. Not because they were worn out, but because they were terrible. Put the Firestones on and I actually had some grip.

I've also done various Goodyears, BF Goodrich and Michelin tires, but I haven't found them worth the premium price. One exception is the Michelin Defender LTX tires I put on my wife's Explorer. My tire guy knows I raced and I complained about the tires that were on her car being noisy and handling like Jell-O. He had Michelins on sale and recommended the Defenders. They are fantastic. I didn't realize a regular SUV could handle this well. And they were only about $200.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> I used to run Firestone Transforce HT on one of my older trucks. They were recommended by my tire guy as a great highway tire for towing bigger stuff. He said most of the local business guys were running them on their work trucks. Low cost, long life and drove good.



That website is great.  I found a great deal on some Goodyear Wranglers.  It feels good to complete the task finally, even if a Ford owner helped me


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> That website is great.  I found a great deal on some Goodyear Wranglers.  It feels good to complete the task finally, even if a Ford owner helped me


Which web site? SimpleTire or TireRack? Hopefully SimpleTire. TireRack is OK. They support a lot of local amateur racers, but the customer service at SimpleTire is great.

And glad I could help. I've raced a lot of things and have had all kinds of help from some of those other brands.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> Which web site? SimpleTire or TireRack?



SimpleTire.  I've never heard of it, but the prices were remarkably competitive and they had a lot in stock.  Plus they delivered to a local installer instead of me having to hitch the dogs to the sleigh to drive all the way into KC.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

I'm anxiously waiting for our tires to wear down.  The new F150 came with standard passenger rated tires.  They handle things ok, but I'd much prefer the stiffer sidewalls of a good LT tire.  Problem is, trying to replace perfectly good tires is a difficult sell for both DW and me!  I'm thinking I'm still a good 2 camping seasons away from that point!


----------



## jbrostek

@Teamubr I am not sure how aggressive a tread you are after.  For me when I am unloaded from the trailer a standard highway all season is like being on ice skates for a DRW when it comes to mud and snow.  I liked the BFG All Terrain T/A tires for grip in snow and mud yet 2 years ago they where hard to find in stock.  I bought the Faulken Wildpeak A/T3 and so far towing has been great.  They been on the truck 2 years and 12k miles of driving and towing.  We where looking at them recently and only now think over the winter it will be time to rotate the fronts to the inside rear as they are showing the typical wear for a DRW truck.

I think the Firestone HT looks like a good highway tire though, probably less noise then the wildpeak though really can't tell on the highway with the windows up.

As for the Faulken, I can say at the track off the gravel I have grip and what little snow we got last year was no issue for the tires.  I feel they are on par with the tread on the BFG and with a 55k milage warrenty even on a truck I thought that is good.


----------



## bama_ed

Part-Time Paradise said:


> That website is great.  I found a great deal on some Goodyear Wranglers.  It feels good to complete the task finally, even if a Ford owner helped me



Wranglers are what I have on Suburban and have for a couple cycles.  

And don't mind Teamubr and his GM-bias.  I'm less than 1,000 from a quarter of a million miles on my Suburban.

Ed


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

bama_ed said:


> And don't mind Teamubr and his GM-bias.  I'm less than 1,000 from a quarter of a million miles on my Suburban.



All in good fun.  Drive whatever makes you happy, but that doesn't mean we can't pull each other's leg.  I'm a Suburban family too.  My parents bought their first brand new vehicle, a 1986 Sub.  They've had one ever since and gave me one of their old ones when I was in college.  Now that I have the truck my wife inherited the Sub.  She said absolutely not at first.  Now she is on her third Sub and I don't think she's ever changing now.


----------



## Teamubr

I've never been a GM fan for personal vehicles, but from a racing perspective, you can't get a better HP/$ ratio. I crewed on a UMP Latemodel for a long time. Those were all GM based engines. Big horsepower for a fraction of a Ford. I grew up a Mopar fan and the Ford love has just been since I started road racing. Ford Performance support for their sanctioned drivers is great. For the kind of racing I did, there was zero support from GM. I really felt for those guys trying to make a Camaro competitive.

A top tier IMSA Mustang could be ordered from the Ford Performance catalog (GT350R) for $75,000. You still needed to add seat, safety equipment, radios and telemetry, but we built a new car from scratch (body in white) that had the best of everything we could do within the rules. That was about $125,000. We had a friend that was a car chief with an IMSA Pro team running Camaros at the time. They were spending $250,000-$300,000 to have a similarly competitive car. Everything had to be created in-house because there was no factory or aftermarket support.

Back to a Truck (and tire discussion)

My new truck tires were scheduled to be delivered today. Early this morning I got and email saying they were delayed until tomorrow. ot surprising given the season and all the on-line purchasing right now.

Then about 1100 this morning, I get the email below.


The funny part is it says the tires have already been delivered 6 hours in the future.

I'll let you know if the magically show up at 05:06PM. (I'll be a little freaked out of they do though)

j


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> Then about 1100 this morning, I get the email below.
> View attachment 543329
> 
> The funny part is it says the tires have already been delivered 6 hours in the future.
> 
> I'll let you know if the magically show up at 05:06PM. (I'll be a little freaked out of they do though)
> 
> j



I bet the delivery truck hit 88 miles per hour .....


----------



## Teamubr

And all the craziness with the emails, guess what just showed up. All 4 at once. 

Tread pattern looks as aggressive as the BF Goodrich Rugged Trail T/A that are on it now. Certainly more aggressive than a highway tread, but it will match the fronts fairly well  



Here are the BF Goodrich on the front. These look new.



j


----------



## Sjm9911

Now get scrubbing that blue stuff off of them! Lol. At least you don't have to worry about if you will have the whitwalls showing or not, we had decisions back in the day......


----------



## Teamubr

I usually have the letters mounted in, but will probably do them out since the fronts are showing. I'll let the installers take care of the blue.    

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Got the tires today.  Evidently the Firestone in town doesn't have a balancing machine big enough for my wheels.  I find this a bit bonkers being in small town Kansas (with tons of farmers ripping around all the time.  Either way, I'll get an appointment with another shop and get it squared away.


----------



## Teamubr

Looks good!

Mine are getting put on Tuesday.

j


----------



## jbrostek

I no longer balance my truck tires with weights.  I use bead balancers now.   They work great, it might be out of balance for a few miles, but they quickly figure it out and smooth ride after that.

https://www.amazon.com/DIYDK-6-Counteract-Balancing-Beads-Dually/dp/B06X6K8GVV


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

I finally found a shop...4th try for one that has the equipment to install my tires.  2 failed appointments from the front of house not knowing what the shop can't do. I think all my savings are sucked up in diesel and the place I finally found that has a nice gouge for installing outside tires.

Makes no sense these places can't/won't do a 3500. The 3rd place that turned me down said the lift wasn't big enough. I guess they don't have a jack and a long hose to do it in the driveway?!

Totally gobsmacked.


----------



## Teamubr

Part-Time Paradise said:


> I finally found a shop...4th try for one that has the equipment to install my tires.


I've only been turned away when I needed a 4 wheel alignment on the truck, but there is one place in town that has the equipment. I had a problem that turned out to be a bad tie rod end, but the symptom was exactly like a tire out of balance. Vibration in the steering wheel, that was very speed specific. My local tire guy balance and rebalanced. He finally said take to a Ford dealer and he would pay for it since he thought it was his equipment not being able to handle the size and weight of the tires. Ford said the balance was fine, but identified a bad ball joint. I had checked all that at home and everything felt solid, no play. They showed me what they used. It was a 6 foot long bar under the spindle and a huge clamp to hold everything to find the play in the joint. A really big guy was pulling on the bar while someone else checks for play. On a regular car, you just grab the spindle and give it a twist and pull to see if you feel any clicks or play. The suspension components on these trucks are huge compared to a regular vehicle.

j


----------



## himandher818

A little late here, so all the creek side sites where gone. You would think some kinda group was coming in. 

My choices were backin sites 2,8,9 or one the pull thru in the 30's. I went with #9 since it was close to everyone else and lobby, bathrooms, etc. and mom will probably want to use those.

Looks like DS1 and DDiL may be coming as well. If so they will stay at the Mainstay across the street.

Funny thing, my mom stayed at the Mainstay last month and thought it was nice, and when she say the campground across the street she wondered if that was where we going stay in June.


----------



## himandher818

oops wrong thread.


----------



## tiggerdad

Anybody see that mouse that just ran in here and ran back out!?


----------



## tigger92662

You saw it too?


----------



## sirenia88

PTP, 

You don't even need a long air hose if the tires are aired up in the shop.  A Jack and electric impact is all you need.  I got an Electric impact on a BLack Friday tool deal for work.  The price was right for work since the impact is not a daily use tool for my trade.  After using it once in the shop, my wife is getting me one for Christmas since i was giddy about it.   That tire shop must not need the work or didn't want to do the work.  Seen those places.


----------



## jbrostek

I have the 1/2 and 3/8 dewalt impacts.  They are awesome.  Though sometimes having air is needed.  It depends on how man ugga-chuggas the last person that put the wheels on used.  Yes that is my technical term for how most tire techs put on rims.

I am happy my buddies shop can do dually alighments.  Some machines are just not setup for that.  His new one adjusts pretty quickly.


----------



## sirenia88

jbrostek said:


> I have the 1/2 and 3/8 dewalt impacts.  They are awesome.  Though sometimes having air is needed.  It depends on how man ugga-chuggas the last person that put the wheels on used.  Yes that is my technical term for how most tire techs put on rims.
> 
> I am happy my buddies shop can do dually alighments.  Some machines are just not setup for that.  His new one adjusts pretty quickly.



Funny you mention Dewalt.  I had a 1/2" Impact from Dewalt.  It turned me off to electric powered uggalugs guns.  It was a weak impact.  Didn't work well.  So I kept trucking with a pnuematic gun.  I have a Harbor Freight Earthquake 1/2" impact.  That is a good gun for the price.  Works well at everything I have thrown at it.   The Electric/ Cordless impact I am talking about is a Ridgid 1/2 inch Octane Mid torque Impact.  It was slick.  It took off anything I through at it with ease.  The only reason why I purchased was it came up in a tool group on Facebook.  I said for $75 it's not as risky as $180.  It was New but blemished stock tool outlet store.  I purchased a Ridgid 5 tool kit for work since I found myself always looking for a drill or cordless saw for misc shop projects.  So I picked it up.  I was able to spin the lugs off my F350 with ease (160 Torque spec)  Then I used it on the work vehicles.  I was a changed opinion towards electric impacts.  So when the wife asked what's for Christmas I said this is what I would like.  She ordered a kit  (tool, battery, charger and bag) set and offered I could use it before Christmas to install her snow tires on her car. 

Most passager tires I got with the first uggalug setting forward.  With my truck I check it at the first and if I feel it needs more the 2 setting.  A good tire shop will ugg it to a certain point and the torque the final way down.


----------



## tiggerdad

I have a Craftsman 19.2 volt cordless impact that DW picked up for me fathers day in 2016.  It was intended for me to have for in case tire change needed on roadside.  I was skeptical.  However, I can honestly say I've been impressed.  I have taken the rear tires off both of my tractors since then with sucker and it did just fine.  If you don't know much about tractor tires, usually they are not changed but once every 10 years, so they are usually stuck pretty good.  Most of my other cordless stuff if all Craftsman 19.2, including few flashlights, impact drill, x2 drills, skil saw, reciprocating saw, etc.  I first got into them when Sears was still going strong back in 2005.  I actually still have the flashlight and circular saw from that original set.


----------



## Sjm9911

I have the same set of craftsman stuff. Well maybe 5 sets lol. Used them plenty over the years and there impact at the time had like 100 lbs more tourqe then any of the others. There probably all good now a days. If you need batteries,  they sell a knock off lithium on amazon. You can get 2 for like 40 bucks. They work ok, im sure the pack is smaller, but there not 80$ a pop eaither.


----------



## jbrostek

I agree the older dewalt wasnt all that great.  The newer one is much much better.  I was planning to go with the Milwaukee which is the go-to for many shops now over snapon and matco cordless.   But I could not pass up the deal.  So far its had no issue, but this is the new 20v lithium, not that old 19v nicad impact.


----------



## ChiefM

I bought a set of the Lowes Kobalt 24 volt 4 years ago and could not be more pleased. I am a mechanic and used them daily on repairing CAT and John Deere equipment. Switching back to auto tech so they will be used there daily too. My air power tools are back up now.


----------



## jbrostek

The cobolt seem to be ok, I just did not want to invest in another battery system.


----------



## AVeryMerryFamily

We are thinking of taking a trip from michigan. Anyone have experience towing a 5900lb 26 ft travel trailer with a 2019 chevy silverado 1500. our towing capacity is 9300-9800. we are a little nervous. Any advice?


----------



## PaHunter

AVeryMerryFamily said:


> We are thinking of taking a trip from michigan. Anyone have experience towing a 5900lb 26 ft travel trailer with a 2019 chevy silverado 1500. our towing capacity is 9300-9800. we are a little nervous. Any advice?



Plan on taking your time. Do not plan on driving 85 mph. You will get some push from the big rigs on the highway, and if it is windy. Plan on fuel stops based on about 6mpg, remember you have a big aero brick behind you. Map out all your fuel stops, and google them, check aerial view, make sure it is easy to get in to and out of. Nothing worse than needing fuel and finding out you can not fit in to Grandpa's Gas and GO.


----------



## Sjm9911

Advice, go slow. Mind you gas. Depending on you tank capacity, you will need frequent fill ups. Check your route, from nj there are some bridges/tunnles you can not bring propane over at all. Mind the traffic areas, you dont want to run out of fuel. And take your time, your not going to be able to keep up with the traffic, so take your time. Bathroom breaks and fule add lots of time to the trip. I did the nj to dw with a few overnights. So 2 overnights, the 3rd day we arive at the fort early. Your newer truck will do better then my 2012. You will be fine, have your stops and overnights booked before hand. Or have alternatives of you are doing it on the fly.


----------



## Teamubr

AVeryMerryFamily said:


> We are thinking of taking a trip from michigan. Anyone have experience towing a 5900lb 26 ft travel trailer with a 2019 chevy silverado 1500. our towing capacity is 9300-9800. we are a little nervous. Any advice?


Your set up (TT and Truck) seems like a very good match. I wouldn't be worried about the truck and trailer. Hopefully you have a weight distribution hitch and sway control. Not sure what part of MI you are coming from, but I would imagine you will be coming down I-75. That is decent interstate all the way. Nashville and Atlanta are always busy, but the rest of the trip should be smooth.

What are your concerns? If you aren't as comfortable towing, practice is the key. The more you do it, the more confident you will get. As for distance, like others have said, take your time. If towing makes you anxious, take a break every couple of hours. Towing will also wear you out faster. It just takes more concentration and focus, especially if you are nervous about it. I would plan on only driving 6-8 hours a day, with breaks every few hours or as you feel you need. That may add a day driving, but you'll feel much better when you arrive.

If you are worried about breakdowns, Your truck is new enough that you should be good if you have kept up with routine maintenance. Trailer tires are usually the weakest point on a rig. If you tow long enough, you will have a flat on the trailer. There are 2 options. Join a good roadside assistance program (always a good idea regardless) or know how to change the tire yourself, have all the equipment you need and be physically able to do it. (by equipment- bottle jack or some way to get the flat tire off the ground, lug wrench with a long enough handle to break the lugs loose). I would also practice getting the spare tire out. Some are mounted on a nice bumper carrier with a lug nut or 2. Mine is underneath the trailer and uses a long rod to crank it down. (out of the way, but a PIA when you need it)

j


----------



## tigger92662

AVeryMerryFamily said:


> we are a little nervous. Any advice?


As others have said, take your time. Too many people drive for a couple hours, things are good, they get comfortable and start going a little faster, and a little faster.
You aren't saving more than a couple minutes time and your gas mileage will drop big time.
How far are you going from MI, what time of year are you traveling?


----------



## himandher818

I tow a 5000lb TT with F-150 towing caps similar to yours.

As others have pointed out keep the speed down, you won’t be able to keep up with normal traffic. I usually stay around 60-65. Easier to handle any sway (even with a good sway control) from side winds, and there is noticeable difference in gas mileage between 60 and 70.

Plan! Plan your route. Plan your stops for nights. Plan where to get gas and know where the rest stops are. Once you have planned everything go over it again see if you missed anything. Then go over it again. Once you have that planned, you then plan to have the plan not go as planned.

One more thing … Have Fun!


----------



## Stratman50th

jbrostek said:


> I no longer balance my truck tires with weights.  I use bead balancers now.   They work great, it might be out of balance for a few miles, but they quickly figure it out and smooth ride after that.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/DIYDK-6-Counteract-Balancing-Beads-Dually/dp/B06X6K8GVV


Never heard of those bead balancers before I had to replace my steer tires. They seem to work great and now I have those red topped valve stem caps on my golf cart! Ha.... 



Part-Time Paradise said:


> Makes no sense these places can't/won't do a 3500. The 3rd place that turned me down said the lift wasn't big enough. I guess they don't have a jack and a long hose to do it in the driveway?!
> 
> Totally gobsmacked.


When I replaced the steer tires on my coach they used a bottle jack (a really big one, I'm 18k total on the front axle) and did it outside.


----------



## Teamubr

Stratman50th said:


> When I replaced the steer tires on my coach they used a bottle jack (a really big one, I'm 18k total on the front axle) and did it outside.


Before I finished college, I worked with a friend at his tractor/trailer repair business. We did a lot of preventive maintenance on fleet trailers. Same process with those trailers when changing brakes or bearings. Big bottle jack under an axle.

I asked my local tire guy about mounting/balancing the 350(0) truck tires and why some places can't do it. He said the larger, heavier tires and wheels take additional adapters for the balancing machine that a lot of shops don't have. He implied they are pretty expensive and if the shop doesn't have that much truck business, they don't bother getting the additional sets. He also said that some of the GM wheels don't work with the standard adapters and you need special ones for those.

j


----------



## tiggerdad

Damn!  We can't even work on tires anymore!


----------



## tiggerdad

Stratman50th said:


> Never heard of those bead balancers before I had to replace my steer tires. They seem to work great and now I have those red topped valve stem caps on my golf cart! Ha....
> 
> 
> When I replaced the steer tires on my coach they used a bottle jack (a really big one, I'm 18k total on the front axle) and did it outside.



I get my tires from Southern Tire Mart.  A dealer chain.  They primarily are associated with truck stops, which means no lifts, everything is old school bottle and floor jacks.  On top of that, the local one anyway, will match and beat any local dealer on tire costs.  They have several locations in the southern US, and your tires from there are free rotation for life of tire and free roadside on their tires if there is an issue.  With several locations along I10 it works in my favor as a "just in case".


----------



## Stratman50th

Not exactly "tires" but related. I waited months to replace those tires because the Smartire sensors weren't available. When they were available I had them send two at about $100 each. They band to the inside of the wheel so obviously the best time to replace is during a tire change. Everything was complete and I tried to set up the two new sensors and the onboard computer couldn't find them. Apparently they need to be "turned on" which they normally do after mounting. My tire dealer doesn't have the wand for those truck sensors. They are still in there not working two years later. Live and learn folks.


----------



## tiggerdad

Stratman50th said:


> Not exactly "tires" but related. I waited months to replace those tires because the Smartire sensors weren't available. When they were available I had them send two at about $100 each. They band to the inside of the wheel so obviously the best time to replace is during a tire change. Everything was complete and I tried to set up the two new sensors and the onboard computer couldn't find them. Apparently they need to be "turned on" which they normally do after mounting. My tire dealer doesn't have the wand for those truck sensors. They are still in there not working two years later. Live and learn folks.



Dang man, hate that.


----------



## jbrostek

@Stratman50th Having the proper program activator for TPMS is a key.  My friends shop has the two types you need for early and late model systems.  I have not heard of him needing any additional for large trucks.

@Teamubr Unless you are running 17.5 or later rims your guy is blowing smoke.  My dually rims fit a Snap-On and Weaver balancer without any additional or special adaptors, just want comes standard with the balancer.  John was the one that steered me to bead balancing because its not that he cannot balance them, its a PITA to get truck tires to balance.  I was a test case as well as himself for the newer system for smaller trucks, but we where both sold in the end when I rotate tires before buying the new ones.

I think most shops don't like big trucks because they lack a 14k lift or don't want to deal with the truck jacks.  Those pneumatic thumper jacks are key for bigger then F350 trucks.  The tire shop I used last time did not use a lift, just 2 rolling thumper jacks and had me in and out in about hour for all 6 wheels.  Even said the bead balance saves them about 45 minutes of trying to get the steers to balance.


----------



## Stratman50th

jbrostek said:


> @Stratman50th Having the proper program activator for TPMS is a key.  My friends shop has the two types you need for early and late model systems.


The system is "Smartire". It worked with the whole coach Silver leaf computer. Silver leaf no longer supports RVs or cars, only commercial trucking. I did find out that Peterbilt installs them on all their new trucks. I called the local Peterbilt dealer/shop and when I said RV they cut me right off. End of discussion.  So, no further ahead than before.


----------



## tigger92662

Things that make ya go Hmmmm


----------



## PaHunter

tigger92662 said:


> Things that make ya go Hmmmm
> View attachment 550795



Well that is the lighter end, the counterbalance looks good, and sadly it looks better than some of the rigs going down Interstate 81 as far as being level.


----------



## tiggerdad

Ah, just a conversion trailer.  5th wheel if you feel like it, bumper pull if you dont.


----------



## himandher818

I bet that has a heck of tail swing.


----------



## bama_ed

So I got a new-to-me tow vehicle and need a new hitch mount for it.  Did the math and it's vastly different from the old TV.  Please look over my shoulder and tell me if I've got this right.

I revisited this web page:  https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-accessories/ball-mounts/learn-more and the first static picture has the formula and sketch to go with it.  B minus A equals C (drop).

My Aliner sits at 15 inches when level.






On my old TV, I had a 2 inch drop on the hitch mount to a 2 inch receiver which sat under the full rear bumper (2005 Chevy Suburban).  But on my new TV, the hitch receiver is integrated INTO the rear bumper and I'm measuring a CRAZY 24.5 inches.











That's resulting in a 9.5 inch drop which is pretty steep.  There was FAR fewer choices than those in the 2 inch drop category. 

Does this sound correct to you?  Just want to make sure there is not something simple I am overlooking before I buy such a "droopy" animal.

TIA.

Bama ED


----------



## Stratman50th

Kinda looks like my 2011 Tahoe Ed, and yeah... that's about right. I can measure if you like. Did you get another Suburban?


----------



## Stratman50th

Found this one, etrailer.com has a pretty good selection. At least a place to start hunting...
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Brophy/BM10.html


----------



## Sjm9911

Yeah,  sounds right. Thats the way they tell you to do it. I would think you could get away with an inch or so shorter as the weight should settle the tv a bit.


----------



## PaHunter

bama_ed said:


> So I got a new-to-me tow vehicle and need a new hitch mount for it.  Did the math and it's vastly different from the old TV.  Please look over my shoulder and tell me if I've got this right.
> 
> I revisited this web page:  https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-accessories/ball-mounts/learn-more and the first static picture has the formula and sketch to go with it.  B minus A equals C (drop).
> 
> My Aliner sits at 15 inches when level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my old TV, I had a 2 inch drop on the hitch mount to a 2 inch receiver which sat under the full rear bumper (2005 Chevy Suburban).  But on my new TV, the hitch receiver is integrated INTO the rear bumper and I'm measuring a CRAZY 24.5 inches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's resulting in a 9.5 inch drop which is pretty steep.  There was FAR fewer choices than those in the 2 inch drop category.
> 
> Does this sound correct to you?  Just want to make sure there is not something simple I am overlooking before I buy such a "droopy" animal.
> 
> TIA.
> 
> Bama ED



I could not get Stratman50 etrailer suggestion to load. 

Ed, you can go with a single drop, or they make an adjustable drop hitch also. I have one, it pins in to the receiver, and there is a second pin to adjust the up and down height. Mine came from Lowes some time ago, etrailer I am sure has them, Tractor Supply may... That may give you the depth you need, I can go measure mine, as I am not sure what the total drop is.


----------



## Stratman50th

My Tahoe has a cover over the hitch but it's about 24". I measured the base plate on the front of the Tahoe and it's roughly 15". The receiver on the coach is 19". I got a 6" drop hitch to mount the Blue Ox bridle into and it comes out almost even.
Not sure why the link won't load? It just spins and says "Loading" for me too but if I click in it, it comes up.


----------



## bama_ed

Stratman50th said:


> Kinda looks like my 2011 Tahoe Ed, and yeah... that's about right. I can measure if you like. Did you get another Suburban?



That's a picture of the back of a 2012 GMC Yukon XL SLT, Don.

I've been an eTrailer customer for a long time so I always check with them and they only have 3 mounts for a 10 inch drop into a 2 inch receiver (no 9 inch).



PaHunter said:


> Ed, you can go with a single drop, or they make an adjustable drop hitch also. I have one, it pins in to the receiver, and there is a second pin to adjust the up and down height. Mine came from Lowes some time ago, etrailer I am sure has them, Tractor Supply may... That may give you the depth you need, I can go measure mine, as I am not sure what the total drop is.



I've seen those on the road in other TV, PaHunter, and in looking at them I see that being adjustable has its advantages.  But I don't tow different things that have different ball heights (camper, boat, etc.) so once I get the right height on a fixed drop, I don't really need adjustability.  eTrailer has them and they are nearly twice the cost of a fixed drop.

One option is to hit up the local U-Haul store or Tractor Supply House as you mentioned, PaHunter, and buy one in person and try it out.  Because if it's off an inch or two, I can take it back and get a different one.



Stratman50th said:


> Not sure why the link won't load? It just spins and says "Loading" for me too but if I click in it, it comes up.



Maybe you could find a neighborhood teenager to help you with that techy internet stuff, Stratman50th.    <jk> 

Well okay, I have to hit the local stores and look at the hardware in person even if I have to pay a little bit more.  But hey, I'm retired - I've got the time.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Bama Ed


----------



## bama_ed

Sjm9911 said:


> Yeah,  sounds right. Thats the way they tell you to do it. I would think you could get away with an inch or so shorter as the weight should settle the tv a bit.



That's a good point, Sjm9911.

My old Suburban had some OE air-type jacks/shocks in the back that would come on like small machine guns and lift the back end whenever I turned on the car the first time after hitching the trailer or putting a heavy load in the back.  I remember at one point at about the 150k mile mark of the Suburban, the air seals were leaking and the compressors were kicking on at times to get the pressure back up and back end more level.  My shop guy told me what it cost to repair and advised me to do so only if I planned to hold on to the car for a while more.  I did so he did.  I don't think the YukonXL has the same.

So there might be some sag/settling because I travel when camping with stuff in the back plus there will be the hitch weight from the Aliner.  So I may not need a full 9-10 inches of drop.  I think I'll open the back hatch, sit down in the back, and have DW crank it up.  If it has the compressors, I'm sure my rear end will set them off.  

Bama Ed

EDIT:  checked my RPO codes and no air suspension system.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

I think your on the right track, but agree that you might want to estimate what kind of sag you will get on the back end when loaded.  Maybe some cinderblocks or sandbags in the hatch to estimate the tongue weight.  I know the A-Liner isn't huge, but I could easily see you dropping an inch or two once hooked up.  Those of us with the bigger tongue weights can easily drop 6" before the WD is engaged!


----------



## mickeyfan0805

And by the way, Ed - Congrats on the new tow vehicle!


----------



## jbrostek

@bama_ed  Do have have the old receiver still?  Why not hitch up to the truck and and measure its squat and calculate the drop you need from there?  I don't think you will need a 9" drop.

The newer trucks are designed to drop some as they make the first few inches of wheel travel less sprung to improve ride when unloaded.


----------



## bama_ed

The old receiver (and the suv attached to it) has gone to that big junkyard in the sky, I'm afraid, jbrostek so no testing its sag to apply to the YukonXL.

I was in my local Lowe's this morning and checked their hitch selection and they had a Class 3 (minimum what I need) mount with a ball and 8 inch drop for $37 so I got it and will try it out.  I'll keep the receipt in case I have to return it and search elsewhere.  I was in there for something else today and took a flier on the hitch and got a little lucky.  So we will see.

I'm also looking for something to put in the receiver when I'm not towing.

Something like this:






And I'll have to keep the lock pin on it because people will steal those things (must be Auburn fans)   .


----------



## jbrostek

I alway keep my receivers.  Plug I have gained a few over the years of used trucks.  I think I have at least 2 each with a 1 7/8, 2, and 2 5/6" hitch balls, and drops from 3-5"


----------



## bama_ed

jbrostek said:


> I alway keep my receivers.  Plug I have gained a few over the years of used trucks.  I think I have at least 2 each with a 1 7/8, 2, and 2 5/6" hitch balls, and drops from 3-5"



When I went to the dealership (up in Tennessee and I am in Alabama) where I bought the YukonXL, James, I forgot the keys for the lock pin on the hitch.  So when it came time to hand over the keys, transfer belongings, etc. I realized I could not get that off the Chevy.  

So off into the wild blue yonder it had to go.  Along with the vehicle.

As I said earlier, though, I don't tow anything other than the Aliner.  There was a 2-year span where I pulled a U-Haul trailer a couple times a year in support of DD's Colorguard competitions during her high school years but that is behind me. 

Ed


----------



## jbrostek

Man that stinks....well you found something to start your testing.  Best of luck on that.


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> I'm also looking for something to put in the receiver.


Ed, 

I have the receiver plug you need. 



j


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> Ed,
> 
> I have the receiver plug you need.




JIM, Jim, jim, jim ........ 

Just keep pushing that rock uphill.  

Don't ever change.  

Me


----------



## Sjm9911

Just a question, anyone have the reducer sleave in there hitch rust together? I take mine out now. Guy at work had his in for 8 years and it would not come out. Other guy had a ball in the 1/2 ton and that wouldn't come out eaither. 


Teamubr said:


> Ed,
> 
> I have the receiver plug you need.
> 
> View attachment 552594
> 
> j


----------



## Teamubr

Sjm9911 said:


> Just a question, anyone have the reducer sleave in there hitch rust together?


I had one in my old F350. It would slide out with the hitch every time. It was covered in rust, but never did stick. It also didn't have tabs at the outer end and would push in too deep. I forgot to throw it in the new truck last Summer and when I went to pick up my Kenny Cart at the DIS Meet in October, I had to run out and get another one. I haven't tried to get this one out yet, but it's only been in since October.

j


----------



## PaHunter

Sjm9911 said:


> Just a question, anyone have the reducer sleave in there hitch rust together? I take mine out now. Guy at work had his in for 8 years and it would not come out. Other guy had a ball in the 1/2 ton and that wouldn't come out eaither.



Kroil available from Kano Labratories in Kentucky. Works awesome. Love all their products.


----------



## Sjm9911

Added it to my list to get later, i do remember the can but never used it.


----------



## jkh36619

yep. Id get an adjustable ball hitch and a set of Firestone ride rite air bags and you'll be good to go!


----------



## Teamubr

jkh36619 said:


> and a set of Firestone ride rite air bags and you'll be good to go!


You haven't seen Ed's trailer. My 5th wheel hitch weighs more than his whole A-liner. 

j


----------



## jkh36619

oh. Haha. even better!


----------



## jbrostek

This is by far my favorite hitch when I regularly was going back and forth from the utility trailer to the big box trailer.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products/341025--212-shank-6-rapid-hitch-2x2516-combo-ball.aspx
It got stolen off my truck even with a lock (seriously surprised how easy they are to defeat.) Since I rarely need the 2 5/16 these days I just leave an old 2" hitch on the back of the truck as the anti tailgater.


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> You haven't seen Ed's trailer. My 5th wheel hitch weighs more than his whole A-liner.
> 
> j



She ain't big, jkh36619, but she is comfy, small, nimble, and light.  Which makes it easier to get a spot, sometimes, than those with the 40-something foot trailer or rv.


























Also Teamubr's backstory is that for the 12 years I was driving my Chevy Suburban up to 250k miles pulling my Jayco popup and Aliner Expedition, he's gone through 2-3 Fords and didn't get over 150k in any of them that I can recall.  So I think he pretends to make it a Chevy-Ford thing but in reality I think he's just a little bit jelly.

Good things come in small packages.

Bama Ed

PS - UPS should deliver the wire harness today so I can move the brake controller to the YukonXL.  Then it will be time to have a little servicing done before the spring rush.  But I can't tow it to the service place until I get a hitch with the correct drop and a functioning brake controller.


----------



## Teamubr

Like I have said before, if I only camped on weekends at my local SP/COE places, I would love to have something the size of Ed's. Our friends old T@b or an Aliner would be great. DW wouldn't have anything to do with it though.



bama_ed said:


> Also Teamubr's backstory is that for the 12 years I was driving my Chevy Suburban up to 250k miles pulling my Jayco popup and Aliner Expedition, he's gone through 2-3 Fords and didn't get over 150k in any of them that I can recall.  So I think he pretends to make it a Chevy-Ford thing but in reality I think he's just a little bit jelly.
> 
> Good things come in small packages.


I'll correct a few errors in my back story though. Yes, I am on my 4th F250/350, but that is since 2001. So 20 years, not 12. Two of the three I traded/sold had over 180,000 miles and given what I towed with them and where (from the Rockies to the East coast and Wisconsin to Florida) I like to have confidence I'll get there and back.

Until a few years ago, I towed really big racecar trailers. 48 ft, 2 car enclosed trailer. With both cars, spare engine/ transmission, 3 full sets of tires for each car, generator, air compressor, welder, and lots and lots of tools. It came in around 22,000 lbs. I also raced for Ford (and Mazda). While I doubt I'll ever own a GM product, I got very nice deals on Ford trucks through the sanctioning arrangement.



The one truck I only kept for a few years was a 2008. That was the first year of the emissions/DPF diesels and I hated that truck. Decent power, horrible fuel mileage. Had it for 30,000 miles and traded on the truck I just sold after 10 years.

Now I only have my "little" 42 ft, 15,000 lb camper to pull around, so no sweat.

j


----------



## Stratman50th

*I only tow a SUV so......*



This is the drop hitch I have on there now ED. You can't see it in the above picture but that thing was way out of level.
It got fixed as soon as I got back from that trip.



Rear view "mirror" view...


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> Like I have said before, if I only camped on weekends at my local SP/COE places, I would love to have something the size of Ed's. Our friends old T@b or an Aliner would be great. DW wouldn't have anything to do with it though.
> 
> Now I only have my "little" 42 ft, 15,000 lb camper to pull around, so no sweat.
> 
> j



Mrs. tiggerdad, when she saw the Aliner for the first time and stepped in it with Mr. and the kids, said she thought it was cute and she liked it (which as I recall surprised Mr.) but all agreed it's not built for a 4-person outing.  DW and I have taken DD who sleeps on the collapsed dinette table and there is not a lot of storage space for suitcases, etc.  So even 3 people is really pushing it.

However, DD should fly from the nest this year so then it will be down to me and DW.

So yeah, Jim, keep towing the 42-footer to keep your DW happy.  I hope the Aliner doesn't tax the Yukon.

Bama Ed

PS - not truck/towing related but went out today to check a new service/trailer place.  We moved almost four years ago and travelling back to the repair/service place we had used for years is not practical.  But met the owner and they have good ratings.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

Ed - I love the Aliner, just not an option for us.  If I were doing the local weekend thing alone with with our son, I think that would very much be an option we'd consider.  But, DW would never use a unit without a full shower and kitchen!


----------



## bama_ed

mickeyfan0805 said:


> Ed - I love the Aliner, just not an option for us.  If I were doing the local weekend thing alone with with our son, I think that would very much be an option we'd consider.  But, DW would never use a unit without a full shower and kitchen!



I hear ya, Marty.  I bought it back in 2014 when I was daydreaming of the day when the kids wouldn't be camping with us (inside the trailer that is) because an Aliner is great for two people but as I said, three can feel crowded.  But when I stumbled across it on the dealer's lot and it was only $14k brand stinkin' new (and the big Expedition model to boot), I had to jump on it and trade in the ol' Jayco pup.

I also know that my DW would prefer a full bath but the places we tend to camp at the most (Gulf State Park, the local CoE cg on the river here, and the Fort) all have comfort stations that DW approves of so while that situation is not optimal, it's manageable.

Keeping it towing and truck related, I have tracked down all the wires on the YukonXL that need to be used to install the brake controller.  Personally I think those YT videos that show how it's done are all staged.  The wires are all found in less than 5 seconds and laying out in the open.  I spent 5 minutes on my back on the drivers floor staring up behind the dashboard with a flashlight for the 4 wires that were "just hanging right there out in the open" on the YT video.  Turns out they were coiled and tucked WAY UP in the dash but they were the right colors so I pulled them down by the brake pedal.

There is a red power wire that has to be secured onto a post where all the fuses are under the hood.  In the video the red wire is laying RIGHT BESIDE the fuse box and you just reach down and lift it up.  In real life I finally found it coiled up and secured with some black tape against a plastic black wire tube nearly at the driver's wall.  Long enough to reach the fuse post but not exactly laying out.

Bama Ed

PS - the YT how-to videos for things like wiring a brake controller are like the cooking shows on tv.  I know the chefs have a staff behind them to wash, chop, prep, and get the pans ready.  The editing process reduces the cooking time.  What takes about 22 minutes on tv really takes an hour plus from start to table.  I admit I thought it would be easier than it is turning out to be.  The Suburban had a plug-and-play connector for the brake controller but the YukonXL does not.


----------



## Sjm9911

Lol, i did the same in my old truck ed. But my wires were diffent colors. Lol. Untill my freind wiped away the dust, the grey wire was wite afterall. Hook up took 2 days.


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> Mrs. tiggerdad, when she saw the Aliner for the first time and stepped in it with Mr. and the kids, said she thought it was cute and she liked it (which as I recall surprised Mr.) but all agreed it's not built for a 4-person outing.  DW and I have taken DD who sleeps on the collapsed dinette table and there is not a lot of storage space for suitcases, etc.  So even 3 people is really pushing it.
> 
> However, DD should fly from the nest this year so then it will be down to me and DW.
> 
> So yeah, Jim, keep towing the 42-footer to keep your DW happy.  I hope the Aliner doesn't tax the Yukon.
> 
> Bama Ed
> 
> PS - not truck/towing related but went out today to check a new service/trailer place.  We moved almost four years ago and travelling back to the repair/service place we had used for years is not practical.  But met the owner and they have good ratings.



That A-Liner is deceiving.  From the outside it appears to be an oddly shaped small one man sleep container, but inside it feels much bigger.  I honestly have this come to mind when I see it...



Some of you may need to Google this


----------



## Sjm9911

tiggerdad said:


> That A-Liner is deceiving.  From the outside it appears to be an oddly shaped small one man sleep container, but inside it feels much bigger.  I honestly have this come to mind when I see it...
> 
> View attachment 552901
> 
> Some of you may need to Google this


Lol, i was expecting you to say from the inside it atually is a oddly shaped small one man sleep container.


----------



## tiggerdad

Sjm9911 said:


> Lol, i was expecting you to say from the inside it atually is a oddly shaped small one man sleep container.



No, it's weird.  Once you step inside it feels like its twice as big as it looked on outside.  Ceiling height maybe?

Either way, Ed when is your first camper tow?  Interested to hear how it handles.


----------



## bama_ed

tiggerdad said:


> No, it's weird.  Once you step inside it feels like its twice as big as it looked on outside.  Ceiling height maybe?
> 
> Either way, Ed when is your first camper tow?  Interested to hear how it handles.



Brake controller plug/harness wire arrived in today's mail while I was over at Alabama's baseball field watching the first scrimmage of the spring (season starts in 3 weeks).  However, since fans were not allowed INSIDE the stadium due to covid rules to watch the scrimmage (parents of players were tho), technically my folding chair was set up on the public sidewalk outside the chain link left field fence.  So I essentially had a bleacher seat while I complied with the health regulations.

I will get the brake controller wired in tomorrow and may take the Aliner over to the service place in the afternoon.  Then I can report back.  But that's if it all goes smoothly.

Bama Ed


----------



## bama_ed

Yours truly FINALLY got the brake controller working and the trailer to the service place today.

As an licensed, registered professional engineer I am honest in my data driven evaluations even when evaluating myself and I have to say that I am no electrician.

Oh I can whip up a cheesecake and feed 17 people a thanksgiving dinner out of my popup at the Fort.

Microsoft Excel pivot tables are putty in my hands.

Physics, astronomy, and calculus are like falling off a log.

But give me a wiring diagram and a bundle of wires in a confined space and butt crimp connectors with a YouTube video of my exact situation and you would THINK that ol' Eddie could pull it off.

And I did.  Barely.

One broken drill bit, some skinned knuckles, and a few choice words uttered in the safe enclosure of my vehicle later, the little Prodigy P2 controller blinked "nc." (no [trailer] connection) when I powered it up.  Praise the Lord.!    It was time to now hitch up the trailer and check the drop/tow level.

I think the 8 inch drop I got (allowing for some rear sag) works fine.






Just before leaving I threw my level on it and the bubble is acceptable.






Then I towed it to the service place and took the longer way around so I could take it up on the interstate for a short run at highway speed.  My first impression is that GMC at highway speed barely acts like it knows the trailer is there.  Now I was by myself in the vehicle with no gear in the rear but it felt a little stronger.  The SUV as a whole rides a little taller and firmer than the Chevy did.  So I don't know to what extent the 3.42 rear axle makes a different versus the old 3.08.  Or if it's the changes that took place in GM on the big SUV redesign in 2007.  I'll be curious to see what kind of gas mileage I get on the first tank towing to Cocoa Beach in a few weeks.

Thanks to all of you for your advice and looking over my shoulder with suggestions.

Bama Ed

PS - ol' Eddie can't hit the curveball either ...... 

PPS - and the work being done at the service place?  Wiring .....  

PPPS - tiggerdad, that green apartment building under construction over my car on the street now blocks the view of Bryant Denny Stadium (Alabama football's home on gameday) that I once had and it makes me  .  I'm gonna have to call the Mayor!


----------



## Sjm9911

Looks really good ed!


----------



## Stratman50th

Congratulations on a successful install. I think you'll like the new ride.


----------



## tiggerdad

bama_ed said:


> PPPS - tiggerdad, that green apartment building under construction over my car on the street now blocks the view of Bryant Denny Stadium (Alabama football's home on gameday) that I once had and it makes me  .  I'm gonna have to call the Mayor!



We could go...John Wick...

Seriously, it looks on street level like trailer rides very level.


----------



## tigger92662

bama_ed said:


> Something like this:


Ed, if you add up all the titles on that hitch cover, it'd be draggin' on the ground.


----------



## tigger92662

tiggerdad said:


> We could go...John Wick...


Baba Yaga, and no one would know


----------



## tiggerdad

tigger92662 said:


> Baba Yaga, and no one would know



Are you working again sir?

Afraid so Frances...


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> Ed,
> 
> I have the receiver plug you need.
> 
> View attachment 552594
> 
> j



Teamubr,

My receiver plug FINALLY arrived after being ordered nearly two weeks ago.  Since the YukonXL came with chrome wheels, I went with a beautiful chrome plug.






Simple, powerful, and elegant.

Ed

PS - I prefer the swoosh A logo and my Crimson Tide brother tiggerdad prefers the block A logo IIRC but both rep the school just fine.


----------



## Teamubr

bama_ed said:


> Teamubr,
> 
> My receiver plug FINALLY arrived after being ordered nearly two weeks ago.  Since the YukonXL came with chrome wheels, I went with a beautiful chrome plug.


But your name starts with a "E". 

j


----------



## Flametamr

Figured I will keep the trend going. Put new tires on my camper before this past Halloween trip. Now that I'm in management and can afford it I'm adding air bags and a camera system to my truck before our April trip. It doesn't squat too bad but it is noticeable so I figured I would put them on now. I will try and return with pictures when I hook up the camper in a few weeks. We will be at the Fort April 3-9 and booked a full hook up site.


----------



## tiggerdad

Flametamr said:


> Figured I will keep the trend going. Put new tires on my camper before this past Halloween trip. Now that I'm in management and can afford it I'm adding air bags and a camera system to my truck before our April trip. It doesn't squat too bad but it is noticeable so I figured I would put them on now. I will try and return with pictures when I hook up the camper in a few weeks. We will be at the Fort April 3-9 and booked a full hook up site.



You won't regret the airbags.  Made a world of difference with my F-250 and better than the helper spring since when you aren't towing the weight you can let the air out of the bags and maintain smoother ride.  I didn't install a compressor.  My air intakes are mounted in top of fueling area so out of site.  I just use very simple 12v air pump with built in gauge to air them up when needed.

Good to hear from you sir.


----------



## jbrostek

I have even considered airbags for the DRW just to help with the frost heaves when towing. 

Speaking of air pumps, with the new trailer on G rated tires and the 100psi and more requirement I went looking for something I can use for the truck and RV.  I was thinking at first a 2-3 gallon air compressor but that seemed excessive when I have a 60gallon at the house.  I ended up buying the Dewalt cordless/corded Inflator.  It is reasonably fast taking my utility trailer tires from 30-50PSI in about 6 minutes a side and only took out one bar of a 3ah 20v battery.  It also includes a 12v cord and I plan to order the 120v cord.  So far I think it will meet my on the road tire needs and wanted to share that with the towing community.  So if you are already invested in the dewalt 20v battery system I think this is a good option to have around the house/RV.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

jbrostek said:


> I have even considered airbags for the DRW just to help with the frost heaves when towing.
> 
> Speaking of air pumps, with the new trailer on G rated tires and the 100psi and more requirement I went looking for something I can use for the truck and RV.  I was thinking at first a 2-3 gallon air compressor but that seemed excessive when I have a 60gallon at the house.  I ended up buying the Dewalt cordless/corded Inflator.  It is reasonably fast taking my utility trailer tires from 30-50PSI in about 6 minutes a side and only took out one bar of a 3ah 20v battery.  It also includes a 12v cord and I plan to order the 120v cord.  So far I think it will meet my on the road tire needs and wanted to share that with the towing community.  So if you are already invested in the dewalt 20v battery system I think this is a good option to have around the house/RV.



Interesting.  Have you used it on the 100psi tires yet?  I haven't always had the best luck trying to get the higher psi out of the more portable pumps.  If it works, though, this would be a nice have for the truck and trailer.  Right now, I use a portable compressor that clips directly to the battery terminals.  It works well, but it's a bit of a hassle to use.  I'd love the ease of the battery powered version for the trailer tires!


----------



## Stratman50th

My steer tires are 130psi. I have a Porter Cable pancake compressor that goes to 150psi. It is a struggle to get as high as 125 and it takes forever. I'd love to find something that works putting the air in without fighting what wants to come back out!


----------



## jbrostek

I have done 70 on my truck fronts.  I am planning to do the 110 for my RV tires this week as I prepare for first camping next week.  I will let you all know how it goes. 

@Stratman50th I had the same issue when I had my bus.  However, I stored it at my friends shop then so I had no issues if I needed air before hitting the road since he has a 100 gallon scroll compressor running at 160psi.


----------



## Stratman50th

jbrostek said:


> I had the same issue when I had my bus.  However, I stored it at my friends shop then so I had no issues if I needed air before hitting the road since he has a 100 gallon scroll compressor running at 160psi.


I would invest in whatever it took to do this easily. The capacity doesn't have to be 100 gallons, but the compressor has to be able to push in past the pressure already in the tire trying to get out. I'll take suggestions.


----------



## Teamubr

jbrostek said:


> I have done 70 on my truck fronts.  I am planning to do the 110 for my RV tires this week as I prepare for first camping next week.  I will let you all know how it goes.


James,

I don't think you need to go to 110 psi. I put Sailun load range G tires on my trailer 2 years ago and ran them up to the max, 110psi. They were so hard, things were breaking inside the trailer and the ride in the truck was terrible. I emailed Sailun to get recommendations and they sent me the chart below. They said the psi for the tires is based on the weight on each tire. My trailer is about 14,500 lbs with about 2800 of that on the pin, so around 12,000 lbs on the axles. That is 3,000 lbs per tire. The chart says that is 75-80 psi for the tires I have. I lowered them to 80 and they tow great (much better than load range E). The sidewalls are still much stiffer that load range E tires and the just "roll" much better, even at the lower psi. 

The chart also had a nice footnote for the tires I bought that says they are rated to 75 mph. Most ST tires are much lower than that. 



j


----------



## jbrostek

The new trailer is 16k dry with a 3k pin.  I will likely need to stick around 90-100 since I have 7k axles anyway. I still need to hit a cat scale one day and see where my weights are.  Either way I wanted something that could get to the max pressure if I ever needed them.  

Next up is for me to remove the westlakes, it is on the list but the truck repair pushed the timeline back.   They will be replace by next spring at the latest.


----------



## jkh36619

Teamubr said:


> James,
> 
> I don't think you need to go to 110 psi. I put Sailun load range G tires on my trailer 2 years ago and ran them up to the max, 110psi. They were so hard, things were breaking inside the trailer and the ride in the truck was terrible. I emailed Sailun to get recommendations and they sent me the chart below. They said the psi for the tires is based on the weight on each tire. My trailer is about 14,500 lbs with about 2800 of that on the pin, so around 12,000 lbs on the axles. That is 3,000 lbs per tire. The chart says that is 75-80 psi for the tires I have. I lowered them to 80 and they tow great (much better than load range E). The sidewalls are still much stiffer that load range E tires and the just "roll" much better, even at the lower psi.
> 
> The chart also had a nice footnote for the tires I bought that says they are rated to 75 mph. Most ST tires are much lower than that.
> 
> View attachment 561830
> 
> j


I have Sailuns as well.  Great tire. I run mine at reccommended pressure with no problems.  I sure would be nervous at running them 30lbs low. You start getting into sidewall stress issues.


----------



## jbrostek

Would you get into sidewall stress if you are within pressure spec for the weight?  I would run a little higher then min spec, but if the manufacturer recommends this why wouldnt you?


----------



## Teamubr

jbrostek said:


> Would you get into sidewall stress if you are within pressure spec for the weight?  I would run a little higher then min spec, but if the manufacturer recommends this why wouldnt you?


Not according to tech support at Sailun that sent me the weight/psi spreadsheet. He said I should actually be running between 70-75 psi. That is lower than what I ran on the load range E tires I had. The Sailuns do not squat at 80 psi and they "roll" and handle much better. The trailer also has almost no bounce when you are walking around now compared to the old E load tires. I attribute that to the increased stiffness on the side wall.

j


----------



## Teamubr

If I was looking for 6 tires. 275/70R22.5 Load Range H (or J), what would you recommend? The Goodyear seems to be the go to, but they must be lined in gold, given the price. Michelins are also really pricey. Toyo, Kumho and Sumitomo get good reviews.

j


----------



## tripleb

Has anyone traveled Hwy 74 west out of Bryson City, NC to Chattanooga pulling a FW or TT ? If so, is it a descent road or is it just better to go North to I-40 to Knoxville and head South.


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> If I was looking for 6 tires. 275/70R22.5 Load Range H (or J), what would you recommend? The Goodyear seems to be the go to, but they must be lined in gold, given the price. Michelins are also really pricey. Toyo, Kumho and Sumitomo get good reviews.
> 
> j


I've had Firestones on the rear for going on 8 years. I'm going to replace them with the same
FS 560 Plus 12R 22.5
$540 each including mounting.
I had a long talk with the manager of the place I get tires about different brands etc. The one thing he said was people think that Michelins are the best tire made. They are good, and he loves to sell them to people, but you're paying for the name and that they're regroovable. RVers never regroove their tires because they age out before they wear out.
Toyos are good and so are Sumitomos.
I put Bridgestones on for steer tires. They were very expensive because they were an oddball size.


----------



## Teamubr

Stratman50th said:


> I put Bridgestones on for steer tires. They were very expensive because they were an oddball size.


What size tires are on your coach?

j


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> What size tires are on your coach?
> 
> j


The steer tires are 385/65 R 22.5


----------



## Teamubr

Stratman50th said:


> The steer tires are 385/65 R 22.5


WOW! 

Those are BIG. Carrying a bit of weight on the front axle? 

j


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> WOW!
> 
> Those are BIG. Carrying a bit of weight on the front axle?
> 
> j


18k. The 6 on the drive/tag are "normal" size truck tires. I'm afraid if I have to replace the steers on the road since they were hard to find. The highway tread was the tough part. There's warehouses full of that size with the knobby tread for off road.


----------



## tiggerdad

Teamubr said:


> WOW!
> 
> Those are BIG. Carrying a bit of weight on the front axle?
> 
> j



Oooo!


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> If I was looking for 6 tires. 275/70R22.5 Load Range H (or J), what would you recommend? The Goodyear seems to be the go to, but they must be lined in gold, given the price. Michelins are also really pricey. Toyo, Kumho and Sumitomo get good reviews.
> 
> j



I have had Kumho on my jeep for the last 3 years and they have been good. The shop recommended Toyo.


----------



## jbrostek

Teamubr said:


> If I was looking for 6 tires. 275/70R22.5 Load Range H (or J), what would you recommend? The Goodyear seems to be the go to, but they must be lined in gold, given the price. Michelins are also really pricey. Toyo, Kumho and Sumitomo get good reviews.



My last set on the rear of the bus where hankook.  The steers where continental HSR2 as they where replaced first and that was the best deal the local truck tire shop offered.  

I am still debating if I replace the westlakes G rates this year or wait for end of the season.  I know on my last RV I tried to go 3 years with the same tires and that proved disastrous.  Maybe before Disney in July I will swap out.


----------



## Teamubr

jbrostek said:


> I know on my last RV I tried to go 3 years with the same tires and that proved disastrous.  Maybe before Disney in July I will swap out.


Three years does seem to be the sweet spot on trailer tires. I'm hoping the Sailun load G do better than that. Mine are 2 1/2 years old now.

j


----------



## jkh36619

Teamubr said:


> Three years does seem to be the sweet spot on trailer tires. I'm hoping the Sailun load G do better than that. Mine are 2 1/2 years old now.
> 
> j


My goal is for 5 years on the Sailun G unless something makes me change them sooner


----------



## jbrostek

Funny how I think about replacing my RV tires so quickly and I went 7 years on my first set of trailer tires for the car trailer.  I think I am on the 3rd set of tires on that trailer since I bought it in 2004.  The Saliun G rates I hope will last longer and right now just trying to keep the westlakes happy.

Sadly I was lazy yesterday and did not get out there and use the compressor the the trailer tires and today its raining.  I do need to air them up and finish the shopping since I leave tomorrow after work.


----------



## tripleb

tripleb said:


> Has anyone traveled Hwy 74 west out of Bryson City, NC to Chattanooga pulling a FW or TT ? If so, is it a descent road or is it just better to go North to I-40 to Knoxville and head South.



Anyone travel this route ??? I'm trying to decide whether to travel this way or head South to Athens, Macon, and then home. I'd rather not use the preferred route through Atlanta ... I hate driving through Atlanta !


----------



## Marshel

tripleb said:


> Anyone travel this route ??? I'm trying to decide whether to travel this way or head South to Athens, Macon, and then home. I'd rather not use the preferred route through Atlanta ... I hate driving through Atlanta !


I've gone a couple miles past the Olympic Whitewater Center almost to the Carolina line; and it was fine, lots of people towing rvs from the eastern direction heading west. Really pretty drive along the Ocoee. Towed my trailer as far as Parksville Lake NFS CG, which is about 5 miles short of that and am planning on doing it again.


----------



## PaHunter

So to all those who tow, anything that requires a ball, be it 1 7/8, 2, 2 5/16 inches. How many torque this to the manufacturers specification ??
Just curious, as we will be towing a toy box behind our class A, and the manufacturer recommends the nut on the ball be torqued to 450 FT lbs. 
I can guarantee that DW can not help with that one for sure. Heck, I would have to get a second person to hang off the torque wrench with me.


----------



## tiggerdad

PaHunter said:


> So to all those who tow, anything that requires a ball, be it 1 7/8, 2, 2 5/16 inches. How many torque this to the manufacturers specification ??
> Just curious, as we will be towing a toy box behind our class A, and the manufacturer recommends the nut on the ball be torqued to 450 FT lbs.
> I can guarantee that DW can not help with that one for sure. Heck, I would have to get a second person to hang off the torque wrench with me.



So, quote directly from E-Trailer website when someone asked how to get that amount of torque:

"_There are torque wrenches available that can apply 450 ft. lbs of torque that is needed for the 2" High Rise Hitch Ball part # C40034. However, these torque wrenches can be very expensive and not easily attainable therefore we generally just recommend that you place some sort of large pry bar on your wrench/ratchet and then tighten as much as you can."_

450 would be awfully hard to reach.  I know of several sockets that would break before that torque was reached.


----------



## Teamubr

tiggerdad said:


> 450 would be awfully hard to reach.  I know of several sockets that would break before that torque was reached.


I would say it is impossible to reach with any home mechanic tools. Even if you did make up something with a pipe wrench and long bar, how do you know if you were only at 400 or overshot and you're at 550?

450 sounds like a number the manufacturers list to escape liability. If it comes loose, prove you torqued it to spec. If the shank breaks or the threads strip, they can say you over torqued. Prove you didn't.

And then I ask, how many of us have heard of a crash or trailer/tow vehicle damage because the ball fell off/broke/or otherwise failed because it wasn't torqued to spec? 

Nah, me neither. 

j


----------



## Sjm9911

Agreed, tighten it as much as you can, and call it good. I dont use a tourqe wrentch for anything, so far nothing has fallen off my camper. When i replaced the brakes they had a sheet saying to tourqe to manufacturers recomendations, but did not include those with the brakes. Lol. If your really worried, add a little clear nail polish on the bottom thread after you tighten it. Poor mans lock tight and easier to remove if needed. those giant wrentches at harbor freight for the balls are cheap and will be good enough as is.


----------



## Teamubr

Sjm9911 said:


> I don't use a torque wrench for anything, add a little clear nail polish on the bottom thread after you tighten it. Poor mans lock tight and easier to remove if needed.


I do torque most things to spec. (wheel lugs, head bolts, ANYTHING on the race car) The race team was even more psychotic about it. Anything critical that we didn't want coming loose was safety wired 



and EVERYTHING that could come loose during a race was marked with a paint pen. 

 

Quick easy visual during prerace prep. If the paint doesn't line up, something moved.

Can't say I still don't do that on my regular cars. Old habits.

j


----------



## Sjm9911

Paint pen is a good idea. I forget about such easy stuff like that.


----------



## Stork

tiggerdad said:


> So, quote directly from E-Trailer website when someone asked how to get that amount of torque:
> 
> "_There are torque wrenches available that can apply 450 ft. lbs of torque that is needed for the 2" High Rise Hitch Ball part # C40034. However, these torque wrenches can be very expensive and not easily attainable therefore we generally just recommend that you place some sort of large pry bar on your wrench/ratchet and then tighten as much as you can."_
> 
> 450 would be awfully hard to reach.  I know of several sockets that would break before that torque was reached.


What about stopping at a TA or Love's and seeing if they can achieving the desired value (for a fee, of course)?


----------



## PaHunter

Stork said:


> What about stopping at a TA or Love's and seeing if they can achieving the desired value (for a fee, of course)?



I have a torque wrench that goes to 300 ft lbs, and when I was in the National Guard we torqued tank parts to 600ft lbs, but that torque wrench was about 6 feet long. 
The problem with the ball is the space available to put a wrench on top. 
I mean if I need to get the 300 put on there, I can brace the ball with a pipe wrench, and hook up DW's car to the torque wrench with a strap, cuz at 225lbs, I am not going to pull and get 300, well maybe, but there is a Dismeet coming up and no point in hurting myself.


----------



## Sjm9911

PaHunter said:


> I have a torque wrench that goes to 300 ft lbs, and when I was in the National Guard we torqued tank parts to 600ft lbs, but that torque wrench was about 6 feet long.
> The problem with the ball is the space available to put a wrench on top.
> I mean if I need to get the 300 put on there, I can brace the ball with a pipe wrench, and hook up DW's car to the torque wrench with a strap, cuz at 225lbs, I am not going to pull and get 300, well maybe, but there is a Dismeet coming up and no point in hurting myself.


I could use that big torque wrench right now! At 6 foot long it would be perfect. I have been trying to fix a grandmother clock all morning and its needs some more adjusting. I figure im done with the fine tuning aspect of this. So if I show it a 6 foot wrentch it may co operate or get the full body tune up.


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

I'm also a vote for the pipe wrench on the ball and a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the nut. The monster lock washer that came with all my hitch balls makes me feel pretty good. I've seen the paint pen trick 100 times, but never think to do it. The engineer in me and the procrastinator in me are constantly at war.


----------



## PaHunter

Teamubr said:


> I do torque most things to spec. (wheel lugs, head bolts, ANYTHING on the race car) The race team was even more psychotic about it. Anything critical that we didn't want coming loose was safety wired
> 
> View attachment 573847
> 
> and EVERYTHING that could come loose during a race was marked with a paint pen.
> 
> View attachment 573848 View attachment 573849
> 
> Quick easy visual during prerace prep. If the paint doesn't line up, something moved.
> 
> Can't say I still don't do that on my regular cars. Old habits.
> 
> j



If I never see safety wire again in my lifetime, it will be too soon. Used it all the time in the military as a lot of what we did was critical. Could not use safety wire pliers. Everything had to be hand done and measured to make sure it was in specification. If not, cut it off and start over.


----------



## tiggerdad

It belonged to my grandfather.  I've only used it twice in my life and both times was as a prybar not as wrench.  Looks bad, but she adjusts good still.


As far as nut backing off, a little help from mig welder can fix that I suppose.


----------



## Teamubr

PaHunter said:


> Could not use safety wire pliers. Everything had to be hand done and measured.


That's just mean and contrary to sense. It is the military though. No matter how good you are, using pliers will make a better twist. And much faster. I have done some by hand in a pinch. 

j


----------



## Sjm9911

tiggerdad said:


> It belonged to my grandfather.  I've only used it twice in my life and both times was as a prybar not as wrench.  Looks bad, but she adjusts good still.
> View attachment 573877
> 
> As far as nut backing off, a little help from mig welder can fix that I suppose.


Thats definitely an antique.  Lol. I have an old one and it looks nothing like that.


----------



## himandher818

PaHunter said:


> So to all those who tow, anything that requires a ball, be it 1 7/8, 2, 2 5/16 inches. How many torque this to the manufacturers specification ??



I think I may have torqued mine to specs. When I got the camper I also got a lot of other things that I were needed, or at least that I thought were needed. A 600ft/lb torque wrench was one of those and the 1 7/8 thin walled socket from was another. I mean, the hitch manual did say I need to adjust my hitch each time for the weight of the trailer.

I have used it once, and I think I was able to get it torqued. I may not have been able to hold the ball in place all the way, and gave up with it being just real tight.



It's right at 3ft long.

If anyone wants me to, I can bring it to Pigeon Forge.


----------



## mickeyfan0805

I actually just ordered a new hitch head for our EQ system and had this issue.  I simply walked it into my local mechanic shop and they torqued it for me.  No charge and just a few minutes of time.


----------



## himandher818

I'm getting the camper cleanup and ready for the summer and while doing that I have started looking at some of the maintenance items I may need to address. Mainly the tire, brakes, and bearings. So I have a few questions here.

The tires are Goodyear Endurance with date codes of 1917 and 2017 putting them right at 4 years. They have had probably 7000 miles on them. Is it time to replace now, or wait until fall/next spring? I hear tires should be replaced by age alone at 3 years by some, and others say 5 or more.

The bearings were last done at the dealership about 2 years ago when I took it in for other maintenance. I want to service them again, but I plan on doing myself. As I have never done this for a trailer, any tips, advice, warnings? Is this something a person with average mechanical abilities could do, or for camper is this a "one small minor easy to make mistake by a novice will cause catastrophic failure" type job. Also should I make plan to go ahead buy the bearings and replace them if needed, or just plan to lube them and buy bearings if they need to be replaced. Is it normal to replace them every few years, or do they typical last along time when lubricated?

The brakes may have adjusted when the bearing were done, but I don't remember. On the last trip I noticed the trailer was breaking as well as expected, so I turned up the brake controller a little. This caused the brakes to lock up when applying them at low speeds like stop and roll traffic, or campground maneuvering. Once again I plan on doing this myself. From what I seen it seems a simple process to adjust the brakes: jack it up, adjust the brakes till there is resistance on the tire, back off the adjustment till the tire roll freely. Once again any tips, advice, warnings? and is this a "one small minor easy to make mistake by a novice will cause catastrophic failure" type job that should only be done by an experienced and trained professional. Like with bearings, should I just plan on replacing the brakes. If replacing them are the self adjusting brakes worth it?

oh, and expect the usual stuck part, scrapped knuckles, non-family friendly words, and penetrating fluid.


----------



## Sjm9911

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYDYO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titleGet this for the berrings, i liked it a lot. Watch a few vids, you can do it yourself pretty easily.  Just make sure you can jack up your camper and support it well. Look to see if the bearings are really worn or discolored.  If you have that then replace them. New cotter pins help also. Same with the breaks, clean them off a bit, make sure the magnites work if they are magnetic. They might not need adjusting. Youll do fine , and learn a bit in the process.


----------



## Stratman50th

Sjm9911 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYDYO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titleGet this for the berrings, i liked it a lot. Watch a few vids, you can do it yourself pretty easily.  Just make sure you can jack up your camper and support it well. Look to see if the bearings are really worn or discolored.  If you have that then replace them. New cotter pins help also. Same with the breaks, clean them off a bit, make sure the magnites work if they are magnetic. They might not need adjusting. Youll do fine , and learn a bit in the process.


Now that was pretty cool!


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## tiggerdad

I have lifetime warranty on.my 5er, this requires me to have yearly maintenance done at a service center which covers gas, water, tanks, brakes, bearings, exterior lights, furnace, appliances. 

Tires, I go 5 years max then replace.


----------



## 2goofycampers

I have a question for truck owners. Have you found a way to clean between the cab and the bed of our truck?


----------



## Sjm9911

I have not. You could use a pressure washer or a micro fiber in some sort of stick ( maybe like the old fashioned  yard stick) if you wanted to? Most never things I have had for 10 years didnt rust.


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## tripleb

himandher818 said:


> I'm getting the camper cleanup and ready for the summer and while doing that I have started looking at some of the maintenance items I may need to address. Mainly the tire, brakes, and bearings. So I have a few questions here.



Sounds like you got a good head on your shoulders and common sense. Nothing you described is difficult and all can be accomplished in half a day.

Your Endurance tires are probably just fine for another year ... but that's just me.


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## tiggerdad

2goofycampers said:


> I have a question for truck owners. Have you found a way to clean between the cab and the bed of our truck?



I have a wheel brush similar to this that I also use to get as good as I can from top and sides.


There are several brushes like it.  Not perfect, but better than nothing.


----------



## jbrostek

I need that on an extension pole to get between the truck and cab further.


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## himandher818

I have decided to wait on the tires for now.

I plan on doing the bearing and brakes this weekend.

I placed the order for what I think I'll need for bearings, I shouldn't need anything for the brakes (unless there is a problem).



Sjm9911 said:


> Get this for the berrings, i liked it a lot.


Got It!

I also ordered Cottoer pins (and extras), Seal puller, Grease caps, and seals from e-trailer. I hope the caps and seals are the right size.
I also ordered grease, and the Handy Packer from amazon. I ordered the Lucas "Red N Tacky", but then noticed that it wasn't goning to get here until later next week, so I ordered some Timken 224 that should be here Friday.

Anything else I'm missing? Are either/both of the greases good for the rv wheel bearings?

@2goofycampers, I have always just hosed/sprayed the area between the cab and the bed. I have thought about using the "pressure sprayer" thing for the black tank on it. Something like tiggerdad suggested would be good, and I'll probably get one.


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## Sjm9911

Im not a grease expert, but i think any grease should do fine. A greased hub is a happy hub......


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## tripleb

himandher818 said:


> Anything else I'm missing? Are either/both of the greases good for the rv wheel bearings?
> 
> Get a couple of cans of non-chlorinated Brake Cleaner.


----------



## jkh36619

Those Grease packers are nice. I personally have this model and it works well for yearly maintenance.

https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/LubriMatic/L70025.html
Before  a long trip if you're lucky enough to have a hub with a zerk fitting, you can jack your tire off the ground and use the zerk to pump grease into the hub while slowly turning the tire until you see fresh grease coming out. Just go nice and slow to not blow the rear seal out.


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## tiggerdad

Dodge truck recall

Just in case this includes any of you.


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## 2goofycampers

tiggerdad said:


> Dodge truck recall
> 
> Just in case this includes any of you.


OUCH! Glad we have a 2500.


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## jwo1976

General tow vehicle question.  We upgraded from a popup this year to a 30' TT (7600 GVWR).  Upgrading the tow vehicle now.  My big dilemma is supply but second is RAM 2500 or F250.  What do you prefer?  I used to be a chevy guy but after some heartburn with a current vehicle I will not go down that road again.  I have a RAM 1500 now and love it but as an upgrade either the 2500 or the F250 is on my radar.


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## Teamubr

jwo1976 said:


> My big dilemma is supply but second is RAM 2500 or F250.  What do you prefer?


First, full disclosure, I raced for Ford and have always owned Ford trucks due to very nice racer incentives. All of my other vehicles are Fords. That said, all 3 of the major "truck" manufacturers have very similar products that do a great job towing. I think it comes down to prior experience, unique options and personal preference. I don't race anymore and have only limited access to the incentives. If I was in the market for a new/or used truck today, I'd find the one that had what I wanted for the best price. 

j


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## Sjm9911

I think there all about the same, especially in the 3/4 ton range. The rams have nicer interiors, the chevy is basic but reliable, fords some people like ( just stay away from the 1500 for this year buddy had a dud, is lemon lawing it. ). For me i look at all 3, and got the chevy because of the price, but that was before the shortages but during covid. Big question is diesel or gas? I got a chevy gasser in 2000. Any 3/4 ton will pull what you have with ease. All be be crap on fuel. Get the options you need, then add what you want. Price it like that. Depending on the year of your ram, anything newer will have a ton of stuff yours didn't that will help towing.


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## jkh36619

I own a Ram. The power plant is good but the problem with Ram was everything else broke around it. However, I think they have made great improvements over the last decade. The only truck I can say I wouldn't buy is a Ford with a 6.0 diesel so I think that would be 2008 or older? Over the years I've heard stories that either you got a good one or a bad one. I would pick the lemon...


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## tiggerdad

jkh36619 said:


> I own a Ram. The power plant is good but the problem with Ram was everything else broke around it. However, I think they have made great improvements over the last decade. The only truck I can say I wouldn't buy is a Ford with a 6.0 diesel so I think that would be 2008 or older? Over the years I've heard stories that either you got a good one or a bad one. I would pick the lemon...



The 7.3 engines were great in my opinion.  Had a 2001 several years, took us to Disney the first two trips.  After the 7.3 is a dark time for sure.  At least until the 6.7, which is what I have now.  Really like it.

Dodge had bad rap for a long time.  Fantastic engine, but a transmission that wasn't even worth its weight in scrap.  Don't hear as much complaining lately so maybe they finally got it figured out.


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## jkh36619

tiggerdad said:


> The 7.3 engines were great in my opinion.  Had a 2001 several years, took us to Disney the first two trips.  After the 7.3 is a dark time for sure.  At least until the 6.7, which is what I have now.  Really like it.
> 
> Dodge had bad rap for a long time.  Fantastic engine, but a transmission that wasn't even worth its weight in scrap.  Don't hear as much complaining lately so maybe they finally got it figured out.


6.7 ford is solid. My Ram has the Aisin AS69RC transmission which is the good one. The Chrysler transmission is another story...


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## Teamubr

I always thought the best combination would be the Cummins with the Allison. That's what I have in the coach, although different from the lighter duty trucks. The Ford 6.7 with the 6 speed works well. I had the first year of the 6.7 and thought it was pretty good. Then I had the 2016 version with 40 more HP and torque and liked it even more. The latest version makes over 1000 lb/ft of torque and should be amazing.

j


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## jwo1976

Thanks for all the input.  We went with the RAM 2500 and so far love it.  Now our previous 1500 had a 2" receiver and the 2500 has a 2.5" receiver.  Our WD Hitch has a 2" shank and looks like it only comes with a 2".  We have the E2 round bar.  I bought the reducing sleeve but there is a LOT of wobble and play in the setup which I don't like.  Has any one un into this situation and what have you done?  I was looking at buying just a shank and found one made by Curt but need to see if the hole pattern lines up.


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## Sjm9911

I use the sleeve,  i don't notice the wobble when set up.


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## Teamubr

My last 2 F350s had the big receiver. Had to put adapters in both. The old truck was sold with it in. I couldn't get it out. The last truck I also had the adapter, but I pulled it before I sold. It's sitting in my tool box.

I never noticed any different with the adapter. The last truck it seemed pretty floppy, but I didn't feel it when towing.

j


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## jwo1976

Yeah I don't notice it much while towing.  But I just don't like the way it moves around.  The engineer in me wants a solid connection.  All that extra movement on the pin can't be good for it.


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## JP6972

You might take a look at a hitch immobilizer. They take out the movement and come in different ratings depending on if just for a bike rack up to a weight distributing hitch. Several companies make them. I wasnt sure if you can post a link to a specific company on this site.


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## Stork

JP6972 said:


> You might take a look at a hitch immobilizer. They take out the movement and come in different ratings depending on if just for a bike rack up to a weight distributing hitch. Several companies make them. I wasnt sure if you can post a link to a specific company on this site.


Ditto on the hitch immobilizer.  I use one when towing our motorcycle trailer, the bike rack, or the cargo shelf.  Makes the ride sooooo much more comfortable.  Found ours on Amazon.


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## jwo1976

JP6972 / Stork - which do you use?  I have looked into this as an option.


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## JP6972

I like the one from Blue Ox. It tightens from both directions. Up and down and side to side. They make one part number BX88312 does the 2.5 hitch using a 2" shank. Takes a little more time to set up as 2 u bolts instead of one. I do see a new one from Curt Hitch that you dont need a wrench for that looks like it would be faster to put on and off. But is only a single pull that I may try if I go back to a travel trailer. Curt part number 22320. For my utility trailers I dont mess with it and we have a 5th wheel we camp with now. I know there is some out there that wont work with weight Distribution as not strong enough.


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## jaredjohn4

I love my 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel megacab.  Under warranty it went through a few converters and sensors on the exhaust system.  The dealer said stop using cheaper Blue Def and just buy Mopar dep.  Haven't had a problem since.  Coming home from Disney one year still under warranty the plastic control box on the outside of the transmission self destructed 3 miles from home on a 2800 mile trip.  I've got 135,000 miles on it now and still love it.


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## jbrostek

Trouble free vehicles are great!  So far in the now 6 years of owning my 2012 F350 which I bough CPO from ford, I have had to replace the SYNC control unit and radiator out of pocket.  The emissions system I got one SCR sensor and a DEF tank level sensor replaced for free.  Both had a Ford TSB on them.  I use only boxed DEF if I have to, I get most of mine at the truck stop pumps or the local fleet fuel supplier that has a high volume DEF pump.  Usually cost is the the 3ish per gallon which is way less then the 4.55 a gallon you pay for boxed DEF.


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## Teamubr

Not exactly a "towing" post, but we did a "toad" thing.

The Explorer was getting old and had 110,000 miles. It wasn't worth putting $1200 into it to set it up to flat tow. DW was finally willing to consider something new. She really wanted another Explorer,  but 2020 and newer can't be flat towed. She finally looked at the Jeep Grand Cherokees. I had been telling her they were just a Jeep badged Explorer,  but she wouldn't listen.
Last week, we drove into the Jeep dealer "to look". There was a 2018 Grand Cherokee with 60,000 miles and it was only a few $thousand less than a new one. An hour later we had a nice shiny new Grand Cherokee. It is a 2022, but the old "WK" body style. That is good since there are plenty of flat tow options for the old chassis and very few for the brand new 2022 "WL".

I won't have it ready to flat tow to GSP in 2 weeks, but probably soon after.



j


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## Stork

jwo1976 said:


> JP6972 / Stork - which do you use?  I have looked into this as an option.


Probably out of date...just saw your question today.  Sorry.

Mission Automotive Hitch Tightener (Made in The USA) - for 1.25 Inch and 2 Inch Hitches - The Heavy-Duty, Easy-Install, No-Rust Anti-Rattle Hitch/No-Rattle Hitch Stabilizer​Visit the Mission Automotive Store
_4.7 out of 5 stars_  1,657 ratings

| 21 answered questions






-37% $18.99$18.99


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## Teamubr

Looks like I bolted everything on right. Made it the 125 miles to Siloam Springs SP outside Quincy IL.

Pulled in to unhook and it started storming 15 minutes after backing in. The Jeep towed great. 



Pics of the site and park tomorrow in the other thread.

j


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## Sjm9911

Tow it in reverse , the miles will go down! Lol. Glad it worked out without problems.


----------



## mco65

new Rig.. 
2022 Silverado 2500 HD
2022 Arcadia 3940lt


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## Sjm9911

mco65 said:


> new Rig..
> 2022 Silverado 2500 HD
> 2022 Arcadia 3940lt


Nice , diesal im guessing, as the camper is big! Nice. Have fun with it.


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## mco65

Sjm9911 said:


> Nice , diesal im guessing, as the camper is big! Nice. Have fun with it.


NOT diesel.  
Took on 1 trip about 35 miles away... I didn't have any power issues.. I certainly knew and felt that trailer in tow.... plus <10 mph..  I never felt unsafe... the trucks passing me didn't push me around.. i never got above 60 or 62...  It was a fairly easy trip.. 

Still, It did get me 2nd guessing my tow vehicle.. damn.


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## Teamubr

mco65 said:


> NOT diesel.
> 
> Still, It did get me 2nd guessing my tow vehicle.. damn.


I've always been an advocate for diesel, but I also tow long distances and generally pretty heavy. Any more, if you don't travel too far from home and are well within the capacity of the truck, a gasser is probably the more economical decision. With gasoline prices close to $1 less than diesel and the huge upfront cost for the diesel option, it is a lot harder to justify.

j


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## Sjm9911

I have the 2020 2500 gasser. But my rig is not that big. For me its great.


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## JP6972

Have a 2019 Chevy gas 2500 that I pull a 38' fifth wheel with. It is a lighter weight Cougar. Loaded about 12,000 lbs. So far so good.
One trip to the Fort up and over mt eagle and a trip to the Black Hills of SD and a lot of local camping trips. Pull faster than I should sometimes but try to stay around 65 when on the highway. Considered Diesel when we bought it but back and forth to work only 2.5 miles. Thought it would  be to hard on the truck.
Rest stop top of Mt Eagle


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## JP6972

It is definitely an improvement from our other truck


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## mco65

JP6972 said:


> Have a 2019 Chevy gas 2500 that I pull a 38' fifth wheel with. It is a lighter weight Cougar. Loaded about 12,000 lbs. So far so good.
> One trip to the Fort up and over mt eagle and a trip to the Black Hills of SD and a lot of local camping trips. Pull faster than I should sometimes but try to stay around 65 when on the highway. Considered Diesel when we bought it but back and forth to work only 2.5 miles. Thought it would  be to hard on the truck.View attachment 694599
> Rest stop top of Mt Eagle



Monteagle is home for me. I don't live there any more but i grew up there and will return when i retire. My mom and dad still live there and i plan to take the RV up on Thanksgiving.  I haven't taken it up there yet.. was more worried about coming down than going up though.


----------



## Teamubr

Monteagle is a routine on every Disney trip. We are going that route in a few weeks when we go to Key West. The "thought" of it concerned me, but after going up and over a couple of times, it really isn't a big deal when towing. Due to what I have been towing, it keeps me close to (or under) the posted speed limit and it is fine at that speed. In a car, not towing, pushing the speed limit and it is much more "attention getting". 

Going down hasn't seemed to bother me. Again, staying close to or under the posted speed limit and it is ok. I have always towed with a diesel though and the exhaust brake does a good job keeping the speed under control without using the brakes as much.

After towing out west a few times when racing, Monteagle is nothing.

j


----------



## Part-Time Paradise

Teamubr said:


> Monteagle is a routine on every Disney trip. We are going that route in a few weeks when we go to Key West. The "thought" of it concerned me, but after going up and over a couple of times, it really isn't a big deal when towing. Due to what I have been towing, it keeps me close to (or under) the posted speed limit and it is fine at that speed. In a car, not towing, pushing the speed limit and it is much more "attention getting".
> 
> Going down hasn't seemed to bother me. Again, staying close to or under the posted speed limit and it is ok. I have always towed with a diesel though and the exhaust brake does a good job keeping the speed under control without using the brakes as much.
> 
> After towing out west a few times when racing, Monteagle is nothing.
> 
> j



Agree with @Teamubr all around. I've always thought northbound was a little trickier than southbound, but both are plenty doable.

Just don't do what I did last time over Monteagle for me when we stopped at the rest area at the top and I forgot to turn on the tow/haul and exhaust brake. I thought the brakes were cutting out or something way worse in the drivetrain exploded. That made that trip southbound a little exciting.


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## JP6972

Always start down the hill going slow dont ever ride the brakes. Just pump them as needed is what I tell myself.  Hauled a few park model campers in the early 80's down to Fl. Monteagle was an eye opener for the young man I was at the time.


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## cinderellagirl2280

I just towed home for the first time since last season. When I got home, the driver side hub on my pop up was way warmer than the other one. I could hold my hand to it for a bit and it didn’t smell like rubber. The tire was fine. Im trying to remember if this is a normal thing but any thoughts?


----------



## Stratman50th

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> I just towed home for the first time since last season. When I got home, the driver side hub on my pop up was way warmer than the other one. I could hold my hand to it for a bit and it didn’t smell like rubber. The tire was fine. Im trying to remember if this is a normal thing but any thoughts?


Sounds like you have a bearing going bad or at least there is little to no grease in there. Is there a fitting that will allow you to grease in the center of the hub?


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## Sjm9911

I have faith you can do this!


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## cinderellagirl2280

Stratman50th said:


> Sounds like you have a bearing going bad or at least there is little to no grease in there. Is there a fitting that will allow you to grease in the center of the hub?


That’s what my neighbour said after I posted in here. He’s going to teach me how to do it this weekend. Thanks


----------



## Teamubr

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> That’s what my neighbour said after I posted in here. He’s going to teach me how to do it this weekend. Thanks


Get some latex gloves and one of the cheap plastic packing tools from an auto parts store. I still "hand" pack mine, but I'm an old nurse who has had their hands up to you don't want to know where, so not much bothers me. The bearing grease is sticky, nasty stuff to clean off. 

j


----------



## bama_ed

Teamubr said:


> I'm an old nurse who has had their hands up to you don't want to know where, so not much bothers me. The bearing grease is sticky, nasty stuff to clean off.
> 
> j








Dude, way too much TMI.  Just nah.    I have to go find a safe space to detox.  ED

PS - gonna fill my head with thoughts of chocolate chip cookies, apple pie, my mom's hugs, and yet ANOTHER Bama nattie.  (I'm losing count at this point - my B1G cousins will help me on that, I'm sure).

PPS - to stay on topic, I'll need to check my tires and axles before I head out to Spring Training 2023 in Arizona soon.


----------



## Sjm9911

This 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYDYO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
And some red and tacky. Plus make sure you get new seals for the hubs.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

So my neighbour and I checked the bearings. They were fine. We added some grease anyways since it’s been a few years. Turned out my brake line for the driver side brake was either chewed or snapped. My neighbour is going to help me fix it on a night it’s not pouring rain.


----------



## jkh36619

Teamubr said:


> Monteagle is a routine on every Disney trip. We are going that route in a few weeks when we go to Key West. The "thought" of it concerned me, but after going up and over a couple of times, it really isn't a big deal when towing. Due to what I have been towing, it keeps me close to (or under) the posted speed limit and it is fine at that speed. In a car, not towing, pushing the speed limit and it is much more "attention getting".
> 
> Going down hasn't seemed to bother me. Again, staying close to or under the posted speed limit and it is ok. I have always towed with a diesel though and the exhaust brake does a good job keeping the speed under control without using the brakes as much.
> 
> After towing out west a few times when racing, Monteagle is nothing.
> 
> j


Exhaust break is the best part of a diesel.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Brake line is fixed thanks to a very nice neighbour. My dealer was going to charge about $400 Canadian to come to the house and do it.


----------



## PaHunter

cinderellagirl2280 said:


> Brake line is fixed thanks to a very nice neighbour. My dealer was going to charge about $400 Canadian to come to the house and do it.


Glad the neighbor was able to help out and get it all fixed up.


----------



## cinderellagirl2280

Been checking the tires and hubs all the way down to make sure there’s no issues and everything seems to be doing well!


----------



## jbrostek

Sometimes just a little maintenance and TLC is all it needed.  I usually repack our bearings every spring when the season starts.  It offers me a moment to check on seals, bearings, brake shoes, backing plates, wires, etc.  Before any big trips or about mid season I pump some more grease in since we have EZ lube hubs.  So far after 2 rigs and many thousands of miles towing its worked.


----------



## tiggerdad




----------



## Sjm9911

tiggerdad said:


> View attachment 724379


I resemble that remark. Lol.


----------



## mco65

tiggerdad said:


> View attachment 724379


----------



## bigdisneydaddy

I dont drink beer.


----------



## Stratman50th

bigdisneydaddy said:


> I dont drink beer.


Nor do I....


----------



## Sjm9911

Just , fyi, my battery wrnt on my 2020, just under the warranty.  They gave me a new battery. So , impressed at that. Last GMC they pro rated the battery and made me pay for the new one. So, keep an eye on it.


----------



## Stratman50th

Tight fit in the garage.....


----------



## Teamubr

Jeesh Don. You can park a motorhome in there, but barely a truck? I was lucky when I had my dually. My garage was built extra deep and I could back the truck in and still have room to walk around it with the door closed. 

j


----------



## Stratman50th

Teamubr said:


> Jeesh Don. You can park a motorhome in there, but barely a truck? I was lucky when I had my dually. My garage was built extra deep and I could back the truck in and still have room to walk around it with the door closed.
> 
> j


Well, the motor home garage is 75". If I had known then what I know now I'd have built the car garage deeper and wider.  Live and learn, right?


----------



## tigger92662

Stratman50th said:


> Tight fit in the garage.....


At least you can still get in the house


----------



## mco65

I never even tried to pull my 2022 Chevy 2500 Silverado into the garage.. its a regular bed so it might fit.. but i prefer to show it off in the driveway!


----------



## Stratman50th

mco65 said:


> I never even tried to pull my 2022 Chevy 2500 Silverado into the garage.. its a regular bed so it might fit.. but i prefer to show it off in the driveway!


I get it, but this is Florida. Leaving vehicles outside isn't the best for keeping them nice, if you know what I mean.


----------



## tripleb

The "Beast" may be considered by some to be ugly but, I think he's a "Beast of Beauty":


----------



## Teamubr

tripleb said:


> The "Beast" may be considered by some to be ugly but, I think he's a Beast of Beauty:


It would be prettier if it had an oval on the grill instead of a bowtie  , but if it gets the job done, that's all that counts.

I'm out of the GM/Ford/Dodge game now, so I'll just say Freightliner for the win!



j


----------



## mco65

Stratman50th said:


> I get it, but this is Florida. Leaving vehicles outside isn't the best for keeping them nice, if you know what I mean.



Getting a hard push from the Mrs. to move to Florida so i will keep that in mind.  THANKS!


----------

