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*Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*

asking questions: especially before a 2300 mile trip-
What do y'all do to keep your pop up from bouncing all over? We know we need to play with the weight distribution, but my husband is not looking foward to towing it to Disney the way it bounces and sways. Will a sway bar fix that or what else should we look into? The tires are 35psi which totally surprised me and we thought about looking at swapping them first (they seem to squish even fully inflated)
 
asking questions: especially before a 2300 mile trip-
What do y'all do to keep your pop up from bouncing all over? We know we need to play with the weight distribution, but my husband is not looking foward to towing it to Disney the way it bounces and sways. Will a sway bar fix that or what else should we look into? The tires are 35psi which totally surprised me and we thought about looking at swapping them first (they seem to squish even fully inflated)

Popups shouldn't bounce or sway.

Your popup, if it doesn't have a slide, should have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR on a sticker on the camper required by law at time of construction) of something around 2,000# to 3,000# of which 10% of that or so should be the tongue weight (the downward pressure on the tow vehicle hitch). That's 200# to 300# or so.

A popup with a propane tank or two and a battery up front should have that 10% by design up front. Either that or you have too much weight behind the axle.

When I tow my popup, I don't know it's back there other than the 2-3mpg I lose towing at 65-70mph. I don't have to do anything special. I have 2 propane tanks and a battery up front.

I would recommend hitting the web about details about weighing your trailer and determining the tongue weight (a kitchen scale on the tongue jack along with knowing the GVWR will go a LONG way). Until you know the "facts" of your unit, you're groping in the dark.

Bama Ed
 
Popups shouldn't bounce or sway.

Your popup, if it doesn't have a slide, should have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR on a sticker on the camper required by law at time of construction) of something around 2,000# to 3,000# of which 10% of that or so should be the tongue weight (the downward pressure on the tow vehicle hitch). That's 200# to 300# or so.

A popup with a propane tank or two and a battery up front should have that 10% by design up front. Either that or you have too much weight behind the axle.

When I tow my popup, I don't know it's back there other than the 2-3mpg I lose towing at 65-70mph. I don't have to do anything special. I have 2 propane tanks and a battery up front.

I would recommend hitting the web about details about weighing your trailer and determining the tongue weight (a kitchen scale on the tongue jack along with knowing the GVWR will go a LONG way). Until you know the "facts" of your unit, you're groping in the dark.

Bama Ed

Thanks Ed, that is a lot of great info to start with. We did have an empty propane tank and a full water tank so that may have made it rear heavy. We are having a hard time finding specs on it at all and the only thing on the side is the VIN that was hand written on the tag with one of the metal etch things.
The title does say it is 2000# so we will do some researching on it for anything else. I came across the manual once and did not save it and now I can't find it.
 
Thanks Ed, that is a lot of great info to start with. We did have an empty propane tank and a full water tank so that may have made it rear heavy. We are having a hard time finding specs on it at all and the only thing on the side is the VIN that was hand written on the tag with one of the metal etch things.
The title does say it is 2000# so we will do some researching on it for anything else. I came across the manual once and did not save it and now I can't find it.

rideswithchrist, I did come across this website with data on a 2008 model which is only 1 year off from yours. I hope it is similar enough to yours. Data on the 2007 model was not available. It's a comparing-trailers page but the same model is on both sides.

http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/e...04&year1=2008&mfg1=3554&vehicle1=82304&go2=Go

2007Palomino4125.png

So it looks like the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) is 1,985# and the Cargo Carrying Capacity is 1,015# which is the math for a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVRW) of 3,000#. So yes, a full water tank and empty propane tanks could cause the bounce and sway (your trailer is trying to lean BACKWARDS as it rolls down the road) or it is very close to balanced evenly that the slightest bump could induce sway.

I had a similar issue taking my 3 bikes on the back of the Aliner to the Fort last month and back. We had a bike frame on the BACK of the popup. I tried to compensate with lots of weight inside the trailer as far forward as possible. There were a couple times I got into a sway situation which can be handled by engaging the brake controller manually and moderating speed.

So your popup should definitely be hard to lift off the front wheel before you hook it up to the hitch. Note above how the hitch/tongue weight of 188# is about 10% of the UVW. That is the ratio you need to stay close to. You CAN carry water in the H20 tank but you have to compensate with weight up front of the axle to keep a little downward force (about 10% of the towed weight) on the hitch. It's a Moment Arm Equation (forgive me, I'm a Professional Engineer) and 100# 6 feet out from the axle is twice as nice as 100# that is 3 feet from the axle. But you need enough downward force on the hitch to keep it always "leaning forward" or down, so to speak. That's why knowing your tow weight and checking the force/weight under the front wheel/hitch is critical.

Hope this makes sense.

Bama Ed
 


Okay I have some surprising test results to share. We just returned from a visit to the Fort on Sunday. Not sure I reported all the work I had done on my truck here so I will recap first. Prior to leaving my truck developed a miss in addition to other unrelated problems. The plugs were overdue to be changed so I opted to change the coil packs too. I installed Accel coil packs and left for the Fort towing my heavy camper a few days later. During the trip I seemed to averaged about 6-7 mpg towing. That was just going by the readout in the truck. I failed to do an actual test. This worried me so yesterday I did an actual test without towing and was very surprised with the results. My truck only used 4.52 gals in 96 miles. That is 21 mpg. I was shocked to put it mildly. Prior to this the best ever was 14/16 mpg.
 
Is that the comparison of what your truck was saying your mpg were compared to what you actually calculated at the pump?

I keep meaning to figure an actual calculation of mpg at the pump and compare it to what the f-250 is saying I'm getting.
 


Yes Michael, The on board computer was reading around 18.5 mpg for an average. But the 21 mpg was actual results. I filled the truck to the top and drove almost 100 miles and refilled it. It only used 4.5 gals. Previously I had checked before and the best ever on the highway was around 16 mpg. For some unknown reason I didn't think calculate my towing results. It did seem low but probably was actually in the 6-8 range. Just wondering if I get a chip if it would help towing some.
 
rideswithchrist, I did come across this website with data on a 2008 model which is only 1 year off from yours. I hope it is similar enough to yours. Data on the 2007 model was not available. It's a comparing-trailers page but the same model is on both sides.

http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/e...04&year1=2008&mfg1=3554&vehicle1=82304&go2=Go

View attachment 163200

So it looks like the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) is 1,985# and the Cargo Carrying Capacity is 1,015# which is the math for a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVRW) of 3,000#. So yes, a full water tank and empty propane tanks could cause the bounce and sway (your trailer is trying to lean BACKWARDS as it rolls down the road) or it is very close to balanced evenly that the slightest bump could induce sway.

I had a similar issue taking my 3 bikes on the back of the Aliner to the Fort last month and back. We had a bike frame on the BACK of the popup. I tried to compensate with lots of weight inside the trailer as far forward as possible. There were a couple times I got into a sway situation which can be handled by engaging the brake controller manually and moderating speed.

So your popup should definitely be hard to lift off the front wheel before you hook it up to the hitch. Note above how the hitch/tongue weight of 188# is about 10% of the UVW. That is the ratio you need to stay close to. You CAN carry water in the H20 tank but you have to compensate with weight up front of the axle to keep a little downward force (about 10% of the towed weight) on the hitch. It's a Moment Arm Equation (forgive me, I'm a Professional Engineer) and 100# 6 feet out from the axle is twice as nice as 100# that is 3 feet from the axle. But you need enough downward force on the hitch to keep it always "leaning forward" or down, so to speak. That's why knowing your tow weight and checking the force/weight under the front wheel/hitch is critical.

Hope this makes sense.

Bama Ed


Yes! That makes so much sense. Our little ol' Pup is actually a 1992, BUT that is the same weight that is listed on the title and those specs look the same (size wise) as ours so the math should work out.
Awesome engineer speak there- nothing to forgive, thank you for sharing your amazing brain power with me!
After we repair the sink (which I mean completely replace the sink and the wood it was on) we will take it for another trip adding more weight to the front.
We also may need to get stiffer shocks on the TV as we have been noticing them getting worn, which I am sure causes extra bounce.
 
You didn't want the cummins deisel that Nissan has ??
 
You didn't want the cummins deisel that Nissan has ??

Oh my...that was such a decision for my DH. At first that is all he wanted. He did so much research and talked to everyone from owners to mechanics. He finally decided that for what we will be towing, the amount of times we will be towing and the distances we will be traveling, that at this time, the gas model was a better fit for us. I have to admit, I am quite happy with the decision, the diesel was a lot more money!
 
Man, for the first time in a long time I found diesel fuel at a truck stop here in Meridian cheaper than gas. Diesel was $1.87 and gas was $1.95.

Haven't seen this in a long time.
 
That is a beautiful Titan! I always loved those trucks. I wanted an Armada, but hubs is a Chevy man so I have a Suburban, which I still love.
 
ugh...we have a leak in the Popup that resulted in a ton of mildew on the bench cushions. Apparently the seal at the back is no good and all the rain from these crazy Texas storms went right down.
I guess we store it with a tarp now? I heard that's no good either because it needs to breathe.
 
ugh...we have a leak in the Popup that resulted in a ton of mildew on the bench cushions. Apparently the seal at the back is no good and all the rain from these crazy Texas storms went right down.
I guess we store it with a tarp now? I heard that's no good either because it needs to breathe.
So put some planks/boards/poles/etc... across the top so the tarp allows an air gap to allow it to breath.

I have to say, though, I don't know how much breathing it really needs to do when it's "Collapsed" Typically the exterior is either metal or plastic/vinyl, and while it's ideal to allow the moisture to evaporate easily, I think it will take a long time to really do any damage from the condensation.
 
I recommend putting a dehumidifier in the camper and leaving it running. Most people don't realize that all campers "sweat" when the interior is cool and the outside is warmed up quickly by the morning sun. I keep one running at all times in mine just to be sure.

This will help prevent mold.
 
RWC,

When I close up my popup I always put in a container of DampRid inside the door to absorb moisture that might still be inside (or get inside). http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-...-Refillable-Moisture-Absorber-FG01K/100392067

This is essentially the same type of solution that tiggerdad recommended with a dehumidifier but his trailer is so HUGE (it has an East Wing to go with the West Wing :rolleyes: ) he uses a big appliance. His reasons are valid though. But with a small trailer like a popup you can use the DampRid.

I buy the tub than I can refill as the crystals absorb the water and turn to liquid. Popups have some aspects that are unique to them. Moisture can come from canvas or panels that have morning dew on them when you close up. Coming back from the beach the air can be very humid when I close up. Also, when I get home and unload the refridgerator, there is moisture inside always. So I leave the door open when I close it up in the garage and the DampRid takes care of the moisture. In cooler weather you might condensation on the inside of the canvas from people's breathing/sleeping overnight with the temperature differential across the canvas (don't laugh - it dripped on me one morning).

Obviously you need to get the seal fixed (and I've heard of people using a cover but putting an empty 5-gallon bucket upside down on the popup under it to create a good slant for snow/rain to drain off the cover).

I take the DampRid out when I go camping and empty out the liquid in the bottom of the tub that it has absorbed and set it aside while we camp. But when we come home and store it, I top off the container and stick it inside the door again. Of course if you packed up from camping in a big rain, sometimes it is worthwhile to pop the camper up in the driveway when you get home to get the canvas dry. DampRid is good but common sense has a place too.

I'm glad you caught it when you did. Cushions can be replaced. Good luck!

Bama Ed
 
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