Post Days in Shanghai
For our first post day in Shanghai we took a tour of the Water Towns outside Shanghai. Our guide was Miki, - you can find her on TripAdvisor. We went on the tour with Jeremy and Tami from our
ABD. This was something I wanted to do since my last China ABD but didn’t have time. I promised myself if I were to go to Shanghai again, I’d be sure to stay long enough to visit the Water Towns. I honestly can’t even remember the names of those we went to (there are many). My iPhone says the first was Jinzezhen and the second one in the evening was Xitang.
Originally she had me down for the wrong date. Thankfully, somehow Jeremy found out and asked me about the dates. I checked my emails… everything looked ok from my end, but I sent her an email to confirm and she did accidentally have the date wrong. She was very nice about it, and ultimately we joined Jeremy and Tami’s tour. We were very glad we went with them and we all had a great time…. overall.
It started off with a little bump that had a big impact towards the end of the tour. The driver was a few minutes late, and Mama Tiger would have none of that and called Miki to see what was going on. Turns out the driver was outside. SHDL Hotel refused him entry into the lobby where we were to meet him. Obviously no big deal, but Miki felt bad about it. So, she offered to add on an evening Water Town tour on top of the day Water Town tour for no additional fee. We told her no thanks. We wanted to get back no later than 7. All good. Off we go.
We drove out to the first Water Town. It was about a 2 hour drive. It’s amazing how far out Shanghai sprawls. But we made it. Rural Shanghai. No clue as to where we were, but Miki was there to meet us. She took us immediately to a local temple. It was a very special day - a once a year celebration of their ancestors where they burn money to send to their ancestors. Apparently they used to burn real money, but now they burn pieces of paper that represent money.
Around the corner from the temple were the canals. It’s very much a Chinese version of Venice. And just like Venice there are canals in touristy areas and those in not so touristy areas. This was a non touristy area. It was very peaceful. 10-20 years ago, the touristy areas looked very much like these. And more and more of these canals are being “discovered” and becoming more touristy.
We traveled by boat to Miki’s tea house. There we got out and prepared for lunch. We were taught how to make dumplings. Folding the little vegetable and pork dumplings was cool. I certainly wasn’t great at it, but it worked. Kate as usual was a natural. Such a show off!
Next, lunch. The dim sum was only the last course. Let me tell you. Lunch was intense. I didn’t have much breakfast. So, I think I came in hungry enough. Lunch was an insane amount of food. And it was course by course. So, we felt obligated to do our best to finish each course to make it to the next course.
We were first served both sparkling wine and Lychee wine. I opened the sparkling wine and Kate opened the lychee wine.
It all started with soup. As I think back, it is laughable now just how hot this soup was. It was is this ceramic pot inside another ceramic pot for thermal insulation. Literally it took minutes before I could slurp the smallest volume imaginable from my spoon. For Miki, she drank it down like it was nothing. She got up to help with the next course a couple of times, and Jeremy, Tami and the two of us, we would look at each other with wide eyes wondering how we were going to get through the soup course. And there was so much of it! It was delicious, as all the food was. Chinese Chicken noodle soup. But man… the heat!
Next up were the hairy crabs. We had heard about these on our Hong Kong food tour. They’re very popular, seasonal and special. We were taught how to crack open the body of the crab with our hands and what to eat inside with our chop sticks… every part, but not the lungs. Kate asked, why not the lungs? Because there’s no nutritional value to the lungs. Fair enough. I was just thinking how can you tell the lungs apart from everything else. It all looks the same. We each had our own crab.
The next course was fish with green beans on the side. We had 1 fish per couple! They were delicious. But after the soup, the crab, and fish and vegetables and rice, I was done. It was so much food.
At this point I was so full, I think I just stopped taking pictures. There were a couple of other dishes I’m forgetting. I think kung pao chicken was one of the courses. It was so much food. And then the dim sum. It was the best of all, and I struggled to make it through 2 pieces. I just couldn’t go on.
After dim sum I think there was a dessert, but I pretty much blacked out from gluttony at that point. If Kate reads this, maybe she can add the courses I forgot about.
***I think we went directly to dessert after this. Well, dessert China-style which was fruit. Some type of small apple-like fruit and grapes.***
After lunch it was recommended for us to walk around outside before coming back for the tea ceremony.
Miki changed for the tea ceremony and wore a beautiful traditional dress. We all sat around the table. She turned on some soft spa-like Chinese instrumental music. And she performed a tea ceremony showing us both green and black tea. We had multiple types of each. It was very impressive. But again, it was so hot. She would drink hers and Jeremy and I would look at each other almost cracking up the tea was so hot. We took the tiniest of sips. Bit by bit we made it.
Here’s an antique scroll with instructions for making tea I think.
We started with green tea. Interesting that green tea needs to be served in clear glasses. Black tea in more ceramic cups. The tea was delicious, but I found it difficult to drink the tea without getting tea leaves in my mouth. I don’t think anyone else had this problem. So, I was probably doing it wrong. After the epic lunch and spa like atmosphere, it was hard to stay awake during the ceremony.
***The green tea leaves (which I got a lot of in my mouth; I didn't realize Kevin thought no one else did) had a very nutty flavor and were the texture of grape leaves like those used in stuffed grape leaves/dolmades.***
It was beautiful, but it was time to wrap up. Miki asked what water town we would like to go to now. We had no preference but reminded her we needed to get back by 7pm. She chose Xitang. It was beautiful. I was tired, but interested to see a different water town. As you can see, it was beautiful. The sun was setting. The lanterns were lit. It was like a postcard.
After enjoying the evening stroll, Miki asked us if we’d like a beer at her friend’s bar. Ok. We could have told her no thanks, but figured 1 beer. No problem. Then we’ll be on our way. Nope!
It was a karaoke bar. Miki encouraged us to perform. Kate was indeed brave enough. She asked for a Disney song. Maybe Part of Your World. They were playing Chinese pop music. No way they would have Disney songs.. But sure enough they found it and Kate took one for the team and sang Part of Your World. The beer came. It was huge! The bottle was twice the size as a normal beer bottle. Then for the next several songs, Miki and her friend or relative sang Chinese pop songs. No end in sight here. Maybe if we finished our beers, but honestly that was hard to do.
It really was cool and fun. Never would I guessed I’d end up in a Chinese karaoke bar. But we were all fading fast and it was getting late. Jeremy and I were trying to figure out how to get out and get back to the resort. We had finally guessed that Miki felt bad about not being there to pick us up in the morning or that they were late, so she was adding a few extra evening hours to make it up to us. Not sure. It was absolutely magnificent, but at this point we just couldn’t get home fast enough. Kate excused herself to go outside away from the smoke. When we went into the bar, the sun was setting. Kate came back in and encouraged us all to come out and see what it looked like now that night had fallen. Kate arranged for our escape. We walked around a bit more and Miki asked if we’d like some free time to shop on our own. No thanks. We’re ready to go home.
Once night fell, it was one big party. There were so many more people there at night. There were lots of dance bars and karaoke bars. We passed one bar with a llama at the door. Tried to take a picture but they hid the llama from the camera.
Miki was so nice. She gave us parting gifts and bid us farewell. We ended up getting back around 8pm I think. We left at 8am. It was exhausting. I still couldn’t eat anything for dinner I was so full.
The tour was wonderful. Miki was an amazing guide. The lunch was epic, but in fact was very tasty. I’m glad we went, especially with friends. It was such a long day. I think in retrospect, this tour would be even better if it were towards the beginning of an already tiring vacation. It would also have been easier if we were staying on the Bund which is 30 minutes closer. It may sound like I didn’t enjoy it, but I really did. It was just intense - the drive, all the food, the length.
We met up with friends, Michael and Rob at the Bacchus lounge that evening before they went home the next day. We had a nice drink and said farewell. What a day! A wonderful day, but probably the most tiring of the trip for me.
Tomorrow we have our last full day at SHDL.
