*Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*

[tiggerdad]

WE are on our was to Disney to stay this week! I have a brand new Silverado and a Rockwood Ultra Light trailer. We are having problems that the tailgate is hitting the top of the jack when we lower while we are hooked up. Any suggestions?
We will be in a pet loop with our two furry babies.

Tailgate hits while you are towing? Is the tailgate down or is it hitting because the angle of the truck and trailer is so low? Any chance for a picture and will be glad to help if we can.

 

[peg110]

WE are on our was to Disney to stay this week! I have a brand new Silverado and a Rockwood Ultra Light trailer. We are having problems that the tailgate is hitting the top of the jack when we lower while we are hooked up. Any suggestions?

I am assuming there is a reason why you are traveling with the Tailgate down?

I know my F-250, I can disconnect the cable that holds the tailgate down, I can then "Raise" it (slightly) so it's about 1/3 closed (raised at an angle) by hooking it on the "Locking Bolt". It will fit over it and hold the tailgate up about 1/3 of the way which should give you more clearance. I will say, though that you might need a hammer to tap it loose from that bolt when ready to put it back, as that bolt is a bit thicker and the cable, or rather the end that you put on the bolt, can get wedged a bit.

All this, again, depends on WHY you are driving with the Tailgate down.

Another possibility. If your hitch is like mine, it has 2 holes for the receiver. I can put the hitch in "Further" or leave it out a bit more. This has to do with the weight rating on the hitch. One way can handle more weight then the other. Anyway, I suspect your TT is probably lite enough that it wouldn't matter which one you use. Leaving the hitch out a bit more could help, IF your hitch is like this.

There is also the possibility of taking the tailgate off all together. This also depends on why your gate is down in the first place. (Holding the back wheels of a cart maybe?)

Anyway, I hope it all works out for you and you have an awesome trip.

 

[tltay2005]

Made our first trip towing the camper with the cart in the bed of the truck. We did have to take the tail gate off, but it was fine. We also had no issues unloading and loading at our site.

 

[Barney Fife]

I been a bit occupied since I got home from our last trip, work and life hit us hard this past month. I lost my big fluffy dogchild Brandy Tuesday after labor day, she had heart failure. But after some deeper dives into my blow out issue I found the E rated tires could not hold up to being only 600# under max GVWR. So over the winter and before the next trip I am jumping to either G rated or F rated tires. The F rated have my interest over price. Both Carlisle Tires and Kenda tires seem to have great reviews and with an F weight rating is well higher then my GVWR on the trailer. I guess the weight combined with the 90+F heat was the root cause of my issues even though the tires where not overloaded.

The truck has ran beautifully, and the only change I made since its last service is I got rid of the wheel weights and went with bead weights in the tires. What I have noticed is that when I balenced the front tires after rotating them from the inside dual, they where smooth till I hitched up. Then there was some unbalanced vibrations, but now with the bead in the tires, I hitched up and noticed no change. The kit was cheap too.

I know this is two weeks ago. But I just came in late.

G rated tires are great. I have G614s but those Sailuns are hard to beat for the price.

Make sure your rims are rated to handle the extra PSI.

 

[jbrostek]

Thanks, I checked the rims and looks like they are good for the higher pressures.

 

[peg110]

Okay.... Bringing it up again... Diesel or No Diesel?

I just got back from our trip to the Fort. I averaged 6.7 MPG with the Gas-o-hog. 370 Gallons of fuel (this is round trip INCLUDING the bit of running around with the truck and not camper while we were there).

I was talking to a guy at the Pool (or rather Hot Tub) who says he gets 13 MPG with his diesel. Doesn't matter whether he is towing or not. (I get about 11 MPG average when not towing).

Is it really worth the extra 8K (or so) for the Diesel engines?

 

[dmaxphil]

Okay.... Bringing it up again... Diesel or No Diesel?

I just got back from our trip to the Fort. I averaged 6.7 MPG with the Gas-o-hog. 370 Gallons of fuel (this is round trip INCLUDING the bit of running around with the truck and not camper while we were there).

I was talking to a guy at the Pool (or rather Hot Tub) who says he gets 13 MPG with his diesel. Doesn't matter whether he is towing or not. (I get about 11 MPG average when not towing).

Is it really worth the extra 8K (or so) for the Diesel engines?

I pull approx 15k lbs and can get maybe 10 on flat road with the wind at my back My old Duramax got 13-14 towing heavy loads. Don't believe everything people at the pool tell you. I can get 17-18 hwy when not towing. 12-13 mpg around town. Only you can decide if it's worth it. Factor in DEF when running the numbers. Personally, I'm just more comfortable with the diesel when towing - lower rpms, perceived longevity, truck stop diesel lanes etc.

 

[peg110]

Do the new Diesels still use DEF? My brother (who drives an F-350 Diesel) says that the newer ones aren't required to have DEF any more. That's not to say he's right, I just don't know.

 

[peg110]

I pull approx 15k lbs and can get maybe 10 on flat road with the wind at my back

Oh yeah, and 10 MPG is still a whole lot better then 6.7 especially when you consider my bumper tow is probably about 10K lbs.

 

[dmaxphil]

Do the new Diesels still use DEF? My brother (who drives an F-350 Diesel) says that the newer ones aren't required to have DEF any more. That's not to say he's right, I just don't know.

Yep, still required. New Fords upgraded to a 7.5 gallon def tank, so you'll have a extra time between fill-ups.

 

[tiggerdad]

Required more than ever these days.

 

[PaHunter]

Oh yeah, and 10 MPG is still a whole lot better then 6.7 especially when you consider my bumper tow is probably about 10K lbs.

Yep, went thru that experience pretty much word for word. Is the diesel worth it, for us towing, yes it was. We ran around 11- 13 towing, trailer is around 8k, and have to remember I have it attached.

 

[Teamubr]

Paul,
Once you've towed any amount of time with a diesel, you'll never want to go back. Is it worth the $8000? From a pure financial stand point, you'd have to tow a lot to get to a break even point on fuel and longevity. From the peace of mind and pure pleasure compared to a gasser, that makes the break even a lot lower. I'd say if you tow at least once a month during camping season (March-October) and you go more than 100 miles or so each way, I'd really consider a diesel. If you make more than one long tow each season, you'll really appreciate it. If the $8000 will make a difference in getting a proper truck or not, go gas or consider looking for a clean used diesel.

My older 5er was only 12 ft tall and weighed under 9000 lbs. Keeping the truck at 70 on the highway, I could get 11, but always above 10, unless it was really windy. The new trailer is 13+ ft tall and weighs over 14,000. I typically get 9.5 or so keeping it between 70-75. Wind is the biggest enemy when you get tall and wide. A 10-15 mph head or cross wind will drop me into the 8's. Still better than your 6.7.

j

 

[peg110]

I did get some "Quotes" (or rather "Estimates" at this point) on some new Trucks. At this point it's only been through a Ford dealership since that's what I have now. My biggest concern is that I need to keep my current payment AT or BELOW what I am currently at. Looking at KBB for values, my truck should have around $10K Positive equity (on the low end), but MAN are these new trucks expensive. I guess part of it is that I am spoiled now too. I have a Lariat which has a lot of bells and whistles that I like. (Absolutely LOVE my back up camera.) I don't need them all though, but they sure are nice.

So their quotes brought the "estimate" of my trade down a lot lower than I was hoping. Partly because we had an accident a little over a year ago (We were rear-ended while stopped at a red light), and it came up in the carfax. Even though the truck is (and was) fine (Minor damage to my truck mostly to the hitch which has been fully repaired), it seems that I am taking a bigger hit then I even realized. Coupled that with the estimate on the truck is site - unseen.

They even quoted me a Used 2015 Ford F-250 Platinum with 13K miles at $50K (after trade equity of about $7.5K).

 

[parrothead64]

Also, maintenance costs on a diesel are more as well, so factor that in.

 

[PaHunter]

I did get some "Quotes" (or rather "Estimates" at this point) on some new Trucks. At this point it's only been through a Ford dealership since that's what I have now. My biggest concern is that I need to keep my current payment AT or BELOW what I am currently at. Looking at KBB for values, my truck should have around $10K Positive equity (on the low end), but MAN are these new trucks expensive. I guess part of it is that I am spoiled now too. I have a Lariat which has a lot of bells and whistles that I like. (Absolutely LOVE my back up camera.) I don't need them all though, but they sure are nice.

So their quotes brought the "estimate" of my trade down a lot lower than I was hoping. Partly because we had an accident a little over a year ago (We were rear-ended while stopped at a red light), and it came up in the carfax. Even though the truck is (and was) fine (Minor damage to my truck mostly to the hitch which has been fully repaired), it seems that I am taking a bigger hit then I even realized. Coupled that with the estimate on the truck is site - unseen.

They even quoted me a Used 2015 Ford F-250 Platinum with 13K miles at $50K (after trade equity of about $7.5K).

Paul,

Locally all the dealers here lowballed my trade. We ended up getting our truck just outside Philly, got twice what local offered on trade. Dealer here in WB had almost the same truck, but would not even discuss the price, so we just walked. He kept wanting to sell me a new gasser, instead.
Keep looking and you will find what you are looking for.

 

[peg110]

Dealer here in WB had almost the same truck, but would not even discuss the price

If it's the one I am thinking of (up by the Casino), I can't say I am at all surprised.... Have heard nothing good about them.

It's easy for me to "Walk away" if the price is not right. My first truck, I felt I got a good deal (with some negotiation). Then when I went to "Upgrade" it from the 150 to the 250, I went back tot he same place. Different sales man and terrible offer. Finally I walked out. I don't think he expected that. Got a call the next day with a small drop in price but not near enough... Thanked him and said NO.

I belong to USAA, and they have a "Car Buying" service. So I tried it. Found one that would work (Really it was more than I wanted) down your way... I made the drive. Eventually we focused on ANOTHER vehicle and for a good price but they had to get it transferred from another dealer. The long and short of it was they basically left me on the hook for awhile and I walked away and I let them know exactly why. If something is going to take a week or more, don't tell me it will be there tomorrow.. I hate that!

I ended up going to Gibbons Ford in Scranton Area. Found the right truck at the right price. Lots of discounts (even a "Student" discount because at the time I was going to college for an MBA) and I got a sprayed in bed liner for next to nothing. (I highly HIGHLY recommend the sprayed in bed liner too, but that's another post). So that's where I have started my search again.

The best advice though, is that you have to be willing to walk away (as Alton Brown would say), and your patience will be rewarded (again as Alton would say.) It's tough to go car shopping with the DW as she sees it and wants it not thinking it might be available elsewhere for a better price. Oh well... The truck is my purchase (with her approval of course )

 

[dmaxphil]

$50k before or after trade difference? $50k is a good price on that truck - $57.5, not so much. Around here (Houston) $45k should get you under 50k miles and 2014. I just randomly picked this one. https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/

A year ago, I bought a 2015 Chevy 3500 LT diesel w/19k miles for $40k. Took a bunch of searching, but the right deal finally popped up.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/

 

[peg110]

$50k before or after trade difference? $50k is a good price on that truck - $57.5, not so much. Around here (Houston) $45k should get you under 50k miles and 2014. I just randomly picked this one. https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/

A year ago, I bought a 2015 Chevy 3500 LT diesel w/19k miles for $40k. Took a bunch of searching, but the right deal finally popped up.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/686054489/overview/

$50K was after trade. It was the (estimate of) out the door pricing.

I was hoping to keep my cost (out the door) under $42K with my trade. (Trade is a 2014 F-250 Lariat Crew SRW Short bed, with sprayed in bed liner, running boards, Towing pkg and 20" wheels). KBB says (in "fair" condition) it should be between $32K and about $36K (as I recall) but I would say it's closer to the "Good" side. I guess I just have to go to the dealer and get a more firm number.

$42K (or less) will keep my payment at or less then where it's at now. That's my goal.

 

[dmaxphil]

$50K was after trade. It was the (estimate of) out the door pricing.

I was hoping to keep my cost (out the door) under $42K with my trade. (Trade is a 2014 F-250 Lariat Crew SRW Short bed, with sprayed in bed liner, running boards, Towing pkg and 20" wheels). KBB says (in "fair" condition) it should be between $32K and about $36K (as I recall) but I would say it's closer to the "Good" side. I guess I just have to go to the dealer and get a more firm number.

$42K (or less) will keep my payment at or less then where it's at now. That's my goal.

I'm confident you'll find something in that range. You may have to go 2013-2014. Or a newer XLT with your required options.